Ancient Roman Winemaking Meets Modern Viticulture!

Wine class this week was Italian varietals produced in the US.  I decided to open the 2017 Wrath Ex Dolio Falanghina I picked up during a wine tasting in March.  I became obsessed with Wrath Falanghina when I read this article about Sabrine Rodems’ own label, Scratch, in Edible Monterey Sabrine Rodems On Exhibit Scratch Coming to Carmel

“Owner Michael Thomas has kept Rodems plenty busy with his many often unconventional winemaking ideas, and has given her the latitude to chase different styles, like unoaked Pinot and fiercely oaked Sauvignon Blanc. When they ripped out a block of underperforming Muscat (I’m still crying over that), Michael, an archeologist, decided to plant Falanghina, an ancient Roman grape that was vinified in amphora. So, Rodems acquired a modern day replica of the ancient clay vessel from Italy (called a dolio) and tried her hand at Falanghina in clay. Truly an interesting, textural wine with just a hint of licking a clay pot.”

You gotta try it, right?

2017 Wrath Ex Dolio Falanghina, Monterey AVA, 13.2% ABV, $29 (#352*)

Winery Notes from wrath.com: “The 2017 Ex Dolio Falanghina comes from the two rows of this ancient Campanian grape planted on our estate vineyard. It is fermented on the skins in the dolium (the modern version of an ancient clay fermenting vessel) until dry.  Then racked off and placed back into the dolium for 6 months of aging.  It is left naturally unfiltered and unfined before bottling.  The resulting wine possess very bright, racy acidity that is beautifully balanced with lush fruit flavors and a pronounced bouquet of ripe apricot…Our Ex Dolio Falanghina is a wine with one foot planted in ancient Roman winemaking traditions (fermented and aged in a dolio, not filtered or fined) and one foot in modern methods (modern viticulture and winemaking control measurements to ensure stability). For those who are unsure about drinking a naturally unfiltered wine, we suggest standing the bottle upright in a cooler or refrigerator for a day or two, just as one would handle a vintage Port. Most of the particulate matter will settle at the bottom of the bottle, although there is no issue with consuming it along with the wine.” 72 cases produced. 

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “Winemaker Sabrine Rodems and proprietor/archaeologist Michael Thomas emulate Roman winemaking, with this skin-contact bottling that’s aged in a ceramic vessel. Golden yellow in the glass, the wine offers apple juice and butterscotch on the nose, with a hint of citrus. The palate shows dried citrus and bitter orange. It’s funky but enjoyable.”  Matt Kettmann, 8/2020 https://www.winemag.com/buying-guide/wrath-2017-ex-dolio-falanghina-monterey/

Is this a White? Rosé? Orange?

My Review:  This is a golden, almost orange wine! There was a lot of sediment/crystallization in the bottle – I had to filter it into my glass.  Light, sweet apricot and gardenia on the nose.  Apricot/apple juice on the palate with some bold acidity and citrus notes. A very interesting and bit strange wine (maybe it is the touch of clay?)! May 2021

You can buy Wrath wines directly from their website or tasting rooms. 

Wrath Tasting Room in Soledad!

Regarding Tastings: Both the winery tasting room in Soledad and the Carmel Plaza tasting room are open for outdoor and limited indoor tastings!  Check out this link for more details: https://www.wrathwines.com/Visit

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

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Central Coast Sharon

Sharon is a wine aficionado who has decades of first-hand knowledge exploring the many wineries, vintners, tasting rooms and wines across the 9 American Viticultural Areas of Monterey County. She shares her passion as a volunteer wine educator who presents Monterey wines to classes in Washington DC and Northern Virginia. She is Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 1 Certified. She moved permanently to the Monterey area in 2017.

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