Ian Brand: Discovering “…great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming”

We were out in the valley one afternoon checking out the tasting rooms and saw something new had moved into the old White Oaks Shopping Center, now primarily a “wine tasting row.”  In my memory, this fellow inside was playing guitar, but maybe he was just playing a record.  He stopped to pour us wine.  We learned he was the “I” of I. Brand – Ian Brand.  We were attracted to his wines, range of varietals and vineyards, his affordable prices, and humorous labels, akin to those at Bonny Doon.  And it is no wonder, as that is where he got his introduction to the wine business – doing an entry-level job at Bonny Doon. 

Winemaker Ian Brand has come a long way since those early days in the wine business.  He and his wife Heather now produce over 10,000 cases annually in a warehouse in Salinas under three wine labels: Le P’tit Paysan (French Inspired Wines), La Marea (Spanish Inspired Wines) and I. Brand & Family (California Inspired Wines).  Wine Spectator published this illuminating 2015 Winemaking on the Edge article about Ian Brand, his wines and his family.  And, most significantly, Ian was named the San Francisco Chronicle 2018 Winemaker of the Year.

From I. Brand & Family:  “We did not set out to make these wines. We discovered great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming and decided to bring them to light. The farther we looked, the more we found – remote, challenging vineyards, with hard depleted soils, and intense sunlight tempered only by the coastal breeze. Vineyards capable of producing only the most idiosyncratic wines. Our goal as winemakers is to lightly polish the roughest edges and leave the idiosyncrasy intact. It is here in the back country, filled with individual character, where Le P’tit Paysan comes to life.”

 “La Marea, made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.” (Couer Wine Company)

You can see the influence from his time at Bonny Doon in not only his labels, but also his style of wines – they tend to be flavorful, while lower in alcohol, more in a European style.  And, back in the day when we could gather, his release parties were a fun time: wine, food and live music.  That’s where I was introduced to the music of ¿Qiensave? Quiensave Music.

Today’s post is about his wines we have been drinking since March from the Monterey AVA, specifically. Other regions and labels to follow.

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Chardonnay Jacks Hill Vineyard, Monterey County, 12.5 % ABV, $22, (#139*)

When I was asked to present a Monterey County wine class to the Northern Virginia American Wine Society, I looked far and wide for what I thought would be the best representation of our region while also available for purchase in Washington DC.  I ran out to the tasting room to try the Jacks Hill, declared it a winner, and came home triumphant.  When I shared my great find with my husband, he replied, “Well, of course it’s a great wine – we tasted it at their release party and have it in our wine room.”  :-/ 

The 2017 Jacks Hill Chardonnay comes from Chualar, east of the Salinas. Whole-cluster fermentation, racked in neutral oak barrels, one new French oak barrel and a stainless-steel tank, aged for 5 months. 40% undergoes malolactic fermentation to round out the acids, creating a balanced expression of Chardonnay. 

Wine Enthusiast Review : “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.”92 points, Matt Kettmann, February 2019

My Review: Pale gold in color, refreshingly floral, creamy peach, and pineapple nose.  Full-bodied in flavor with pineapple, citrus and the slight bitterness of lime zest.  A slightly tart wine with none of that over-oaked, buttery or cloying characteristics we often see in a California Chardonnay.  Refreshing and delicious.  August 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#103*)

The Corkery Review: “Tasting Notes:  Juicy, Lemon Citrus, Pineapple, Mineral.  This fresh and aromatic Albarino benefits from the cool winds off Monterey Bay and the soils of an ancient sea bed. The wine has beautiful texture and minerality and pairs well with fresh shellfish and grilled fish as well as spicy cuisines, including Indian and Thai.” Wine Enthusiast has rated previous vintages from 90-91 points. 

My Review: We drank this wine on a hot summer day after a Sancerre.  Crisp and clean.  The minerality showed up as a little bitterness “like a Sicilian green olive” and complemented our Mediterranean appetizers.  Perfect for the occasion. July 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#114*)

I needed an Albariño for a wine class in August and pulled this one out of our wine room.  We were familiar with the regular 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard in July, so what the heck is the Alternate Cut?? 

There is not a lot of information out there about the 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard Alternate Cut.  The label says this:  “We pulled aside 70 cases of one of the components of our Kristy Albarino to showcase a different side of what the vineyard and variety can do.  Destemmed and left on the skins two days, and fermented with a ‘pied de cuvee’ yeast harvested in the vine rows, this is a broader, funkier ‘alternate cut.’“

Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2018 Alternate Cut:  “This experimental twist by Ian Brand shows only slight differences from his original bottling, yet they’re intriguingly fresh accents. Aromas of peach blossom, honeydew rinds and wax lead into a laser-sharp, high-toned palate that focuses on lime and the slightest touch of nectarine on the finish.” 92 points.  Matt Kettmann 12/2019 

My Review: Golden and slightly pink in color. A floral and peachy nose, followed by a full-flavored palate echoing the nose, perhaps slightly sweeter on the palate than a typical Albariño.  The finish is big, yeasty and slightly tart and bitter in a complementary way – slightly lime rind. August 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM.  You can order their wines from the winery or via numerous shops online. As of September 7, 2020: The 2017 Chardonnay is available at Pearson’s Wine and Spirits  in DC and at  K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard is available from the winery and several shops around the US, including K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20 and the Princeton Corkscrew for $22.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut is available from the winery and a few shops in the US, including Union Square Wines in NYC for $28, case price $25 per bottle.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020