I first became aware of Samuel Louis Smith wines when he started getting some pretty fine reviews from Vinous and Wine Enthusiast – consistently in the mid-90’s! Like many of his contemporaries, he owns no vineyards himself but sources his grapes from regions and vineyards that allow him to “explore some other compelling, under-the-radar terroirs where my varietals shine” with a focus on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. K&L Wine Merchants did an interview with Samuel Louis Smith back in 2019 that provides the whole history of how Sam got into the wine business. https://onthetrail.klwines.com/on-the-trail-blog/2019/5/24/keep-an-eye-on-this-guy-winemaker-samuel-louis-smith .
About the winery: “Samuel Louis Smith functions as a micro-négociant based in Salinas, California. Organic viticulture, mountainous sites, and minimal intervention in the cellar are tenets of the brand. SLS presents a compelling cross-section of the Central Coast, focusing on Sta. Rita Hills chardonnay, Monterey pinot noir, and Santa Cruz Mountains cool-climate syrah. The wines are made in a neoclassical style where light handling, wild fermentations, and stem inclusion in the reds create wines of place and purity, aroma and structure.
“In the future, the core of SLS will be made with dirty fingernails and estate grown grapes. For now, Sam is dedicated to sourcing fruit from the most distinctive honestly- and sustainably-farmed vineyards. He is also head winemaker at the historic Morgan Winery, a pioneer of organic viticulture and traditional winemaking in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.”
About Sam (from link above): “Sam studied Economics, French, and Spanish at UC Santa Barbara. A nagging desire for wine knowledge and proximity to good surf led Sam to Bordeaux- the perfect place to spend a semester abroad. Coinciding with the iconic vintage of 2009, it opened his eyes to the world of haute cuisine and fine wine. Though somewhat reticent and cold, Sam’s Bordelaise host family ate and drank quite well; their pairing of confit de canard with ’89 Margaux on a cold Sunday afternoon in November still serves as an epiphanous moment for him.
“Wine and everything it embodies are still the most cerebral and inspiring experience for Sam. Making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley and cool-climate syrah in the Northern Rhône, and cutting his teeth as assistant winemaker for Margerum Wine Company gave him the opportunities to find where his palate and California’s cool, mountainous Central Coast terroir converge.”
About the 2018 Vintage: “The vintage commenced with precipitation much below average, though reservoirs remained full through the season after a very wet 2017. January and February were warm, resulting in premature budbreak in select parcels, increasing worries of frost as nighttime temperatures dipped below freezing on February 23rd and 24th. Luckily, no harm was done, and the following months saw temperatures at, and often below, seasonal averages. 2018 was a classically cool growing season on the Central Coast- an epic year for SLS’s cool climate varietals.”
2018 Samuel Louis Smith Syrah Sandstone Terrace, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.9% AVA, $34 (#215*)
About the 2018 Syrah from the Samuel Louis Smith website: “A 50/50 blend of two personalities of syrah: the extremely cool-climate and coastal Gali vineyard, and the warmer, high elevation Zayante vineyard. These components come together to exude the spicy, floral, and feminine side of syrah.
“Gali is located in the Corralitos sub-district of the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. At the low elevation of 400 feet and approximately six miles from the ocean, this is one of the coolest sites in our lineup. Soils are clay loam weathered from sandstone and shale, formed on ancient submarine terraces. Though not fully organic, no herbicides are used and watering is quite minimal.
“Zayante sits at 1,200 feet on the ocean side of the central Santa Cruz Montains, and was planted in 1988 by Greg Nolton. Own-rooted, dry-farmed, and certified organic, this is a true mountain site. Soils are Lompico clay loam- material that was weathered from sandstone, shale, conglomerate, and granodiorite.”
I asked Sam about the low alcohol in this wine, asking if it was the influence of his time in France to make a more elegant, food wine. He responded that his time in France “…bolstered my affinity for elegant wines that go well with food, and that are not fatiguing. I love wines that are poised, with moderate alcohol, and great acid and structure. Most of the vineyards I work with are organic or in conversion, and have lower yields, which means better flavor development at lower brix, permitting early harvesting for low alcohol and good flavor concentration…”
Winemaker’s Notes: “Deep magenta and medium bodied. Aromas of red and purple fruits, rose petal, and dried basil give way to savory flavors of black fruits, cured meat, and black pepper. Elegant tannins and bright acidity add persistence and length.”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: Fresh and snappy aromas of boysenberry sorbet and rose petals are also Pinot Noir-like on the nose of this Syrah. The palate is extremely floral, like sipping from a punch of rose petal and violet, with a backdrop of black raspberry and white pepper. Drink now–2038. https://www.winemag.com/buying-guide/samuel-louis-smith-2018-sandstone-terrace-syrah-santa-cruz-mountains/
My Review: Very deep color, vanilla blackberries and spice on the nose. Smooth on the palate with blueberry and cedar flavors, a bit acidic, with a touch of spice and tobacco on the finish. This wine possesses a certain elegance and would be great with a meal. A very pleasant Syrah. December 2020
You can purchase Samuel Louis Smith wines on his webpage here: http://www.samuellouiswines.com/wine/
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
**https://www.goldmedalwineclub.com/winery/samuel-louis-smith
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