This is part 2 of my wine tasting experiences recent Road Scholar trip to Italy. You can read the first one here.
As I mentioned last week, I had a few big takeaways: 1) There will be a lot of varietals in these wines with which I am not familiar, 2) the wines will reflect the vine’s origins, the local terroir, and the weather – we should not expect them to taste the same as American versions of the same varietals, and 3) there is a Strada del Vino e dell’Olio in the region that I learned about from our tour director and got to experience. The wineries we visited made both wine and olive oil.
Today’s writeup is about Fabbrica di San Martino, located on the property of an historic villa built by Count Lorenzo Sardi, just north of Lucca. We first toured the vineyard with Giuseppi Ferrua, who, with his wife Giovanna Tronci, runs San Martino – a luxury accommodation and producer of fine wine and olive oil. His online bio is a concise version of what he shared with us that day: “Restaurant manager for twenty-two years, I’ve always worked with great passion for food and wine. I do believe wine has the power to overcome any geographical boundary, touching one’s soul. Wine moves me, this is why in 1999 I began to produce mine. I truly believe in biodynamic farming, because every day I can see its results on the quality of the soil and our products. Our wines are the result of our work and love for nature. My Motto: How do you recognize a good wine? People smile when they taste it!” I sure hope we smiled, because we really liked his wines. You can read more about his approach to winemaking here.
As we overlooked the vineyards, Giuseppe stated very clearly that the wines should be an expression of the varietal, earth and weather. He talked about the influence of the marine climate and, as we recall, the clay and calcareous soil on his grapes. All his wines are made using only the natural yeast from the grapes. He also provided some interesting tips on winemaking, if my notes are correct: Don’t prune in an ascending moon and seed in a descending moon.
We then toured the ground floor of the historic villa, part of their home and property. On the property is also luxury accommodations in a converted farm house where groups or individuals can stay. It is a lovely setting with beautiful views and a huge pool.
After our tour, we tasted 4 of his wines accompanied by a little cheese and bread. This was the quintessential Tuscan wine tasting experience with excellent wines and instruction. Although San Martino wines are distributed in the US, we were glad we ordered a case of the wines shipped home – I have yet to find where they are available here. My bottom line: I would highly recommend San Martino as a must-do wine tasting experience if you are in the Pisa/Lucca region.
About the Estate: “The history of many villas in Lucca is deeply rooted in agriculture as, since the Middle Ages, wealthy aristocrats have invested in land. The estates used to be organized around two independent elements: the main villa, with the garden and the groves; the farmhouses, the productive heart of the estate, where the various agricultural activities were carried out.
“La Fabbrica di San Martino is a splendid testimony of this past: the estate extends over 20 hectares. Vineyards, olive groves and forest, which surround a magnificent 18th century Villa. The manor house, built by Count Lorenzo Sardi in 1735, is based on the foundations of a rustic structure from the 1500’s. The Baroque Villa is considered one of the most important of the 18th century in Lucca.
“Our family, through different generations, has always tried to preserve the story of our estate and territory. Today, we work with the same respect for this tradition.”
Today I am presenting the 4 wines we tasted in April. It was very difficult to find winery or any other tasting notes on these wines. Small producer, with a long reach. I am looking forward to sharing his wines with friends in the near future!
2022 San Martino Rosato, Costa Toscana IGT, 12.5% ABV, $20 (#984) Sangiovese
My Review: Strong reddish-pink in color, like a slightly brown, pale strawberry, watermelon or a Rainer cherry. Sweet floral, honey, and strawberry jam on the nose. Strawberry and watermelon on the palate. Tasty. April 2023
2021 San Martino Bianco, Costa Toscana IGT, 12% ABV, $24 (#985) Vermentino, Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca
My Review: Golden in the glass. Earthy nose, with rich earthy flavors on the palate. Pairs well with pecorino. Grew on me over time. We took some home to try later. April 2023
2021 San Martino Rosso, Costa Toscana IGT, 12% ABV, $23 (#986) 14 grapes
My Review: Candy red in the glass – like a pinot. Fresh aroma with cinnamon notes. Tasty blend with fruit flavors and a spicy finish. I liked this wine. We shipped some home. April 2023
2017 San Martino Colline Lucchesi Rosso Riserva, Colline Lucchesi DOC, 12.5% ABV, $26 (#987) Sangiovese + 3
My Review: Garnet in the glass. Red fruit on the nose. Solid tannic structure. Favorite of the day. We purchased 3 vintages of this wine for shipping so we can do a vertical tasting with friends. Favorite wine of the weekend. April 2023
Tasting San Martino Wines: “We think it is better to present our products here, in our estate, where customers and guests can see how we work every day. We believe this is the best way to promote our land, its unique history and tradition. On request, it is possible to book wine tasting. Giuseppe, who takes personal care of every step of the production, will guide you through a walk in the vineyard and the wine cellar; to conclude with a toast in the Villa.” Email: info@fabbricadisanmartino.it
© Decanting Monterey 2023
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