Enzo Carmignani:  Wine Tasting in the Hills of Montecarlo

In Tuscany with long-time friends for a cooking class with Road Scholar, we found ourselves in the middle of the Strada del Vino e dell’Olio of Lucca. As part of our tour, we visited 2 wineries for vineyard and winery tours, followed by tastings of both wines and extra virgin olive oil. In both instances, these tiny, family run wineries ship to the US. Since I started Decanting Monterey almost 3 years ago, I haven’t been writing about wines outside of the Central Coast of California, but I am making an exception for these two posts.

I had a few big takeaways: 1) There will be a lot of varietals in these wines with which I am not familiar, 2) the wines will reflect the vine’s origins, the local terroir, and the weather – we should not expect them to taste the same as American versions of the same varietals, and 3) we learned about the Strada del Vino e dell’Olio in Lucca. The wineries we visited made both wine and olive oil.

Today’s writeup is about Fattoria Enzo Carmignani, in the hills overlooking Montecarlo in operation since 1338!  They are very proud of achieving Montecarlo DOC for some of their wines. Our group tasted 8 wines with a “light lunch” – which was actually small food pairings with each wine.  The food pairings were perfect and delicious.  And they had very reasonable shipping fees to the US, with a minimum 6-bottle purchase. If you are ever out that way, I would recommend this stop for the overall experience.  These are not high-end Tuscan wines, but show you what a small, family operation can do.

The Strade del Vino in Tuscany “…offer not just a real road map but also a suggested list of producers located along the route who are committed to respecting their heritage with quality products. This is a fast and easy way to find places to stop for wine tasting those who are enthusiastic about an authentic experience.

“The hills, valleys, small towns and large cities in Tuscany, such as the famous wines of Chianti, Montepulciano, Montalcino, and Val d’Orcia, are the caretakers of local traditions and recipes which exalt the natural goodness of its land. When a visitor to the region decides to follow one of these “strade“, then they choose to wind and curve through a landscape which connects wine, olive oil and distinct flavors with its folklore, warm hospitality and culture.

“The region of Tuscany requires that the creation of the “roads of wine, oil, and flavors” follow strict regulations to guarantee the integrity of the products and safeguard the reputation from imitations & inferior quality.

“Reaching from the north of Tuscany near Lucca and the mountains of Lunigiana to the southern borders of the Colli di Maremma and Montecucco, each different itinerary was established to give a “voice” to those who firmly believe that these products represent more than just an economic resource, but rather a way of life to be protected and shared, especially for guests to the region searching for the culture of good wine and food.

“The “strade” or roads include more than just wine extending to cover a long list of products such as extra virgin olive oil and a wide range of special recipes, honey, saffron, chestnuts and even treasured and secret recipes for sweets, cheeses, kinds of pasta, and main courses…”

About Montecarlo: “Montecarlo is an ancient medieval hamlet placed in the Tuscan “province” of Lucca, which together with the surrounding town councils of Altopascio, Capannori and Porcari bound the production zone of one of the oldest wines in Tuscany… Montecarlo wine is full of history; almost surely the grape-vine had already been cultivated in this zone since Etruscan and Roman times. The ancient name of Montecarlo was “Vivinaia”, and according to the learning people, this name comes from “Vinaria Street”, the street which joined the Cassia and the Romea Street. This was a famous “Street of Wine” which went through the hill, whose slopes were already covered by Trebbiano vineyards, which gave origin to a really appreciated wine…

“The wine producing tradition in Montecarlo went farther on and at the end of the 1800 the wine growing culture remarkably improved, thanks to the eagerness of a good wine grower from Lucca, Giulio Magnani, who brought to Italy some French species of vines (White Pinot, Roussane, Sauvignon and Semillon) in order to improve the Tuscan Trebbiano; so new Montecarlo was originated from these innovations and was made according to the “French tradition” (French style). Subsequently other wine producers followed in his footsteps and imitated both the mixed vintage and its vinification.

“In 1969 the white wine from Montecarlo obtained the official reward of controlled denomination of origin D.O.C. (awarded to wine of outstanding quality) and in 1985 even the red wine obtained the same appellation.

“As for the vineyards and wineries, a strong activity of renewal and updating in technological developments has recently taken place in order to let the small production reach the highest trade standards by now requested by the World Market…

About Enzo Carmignani: “Fattoria Enzo Carmignani has been part of the Montecarlo village since 1386. Its history dates back to ancient times in wine and extra virgin olive oil production, devoting attention and respect to traditional methods of production. Today Elena Carmignani – together with her husband Mauro – takes care of the production, combining traditions with modern techniques, searching for excellence in their vines.”

Today I am presenting the 8 wines we tasted in April.  Winery notes come from their website. You can see the price sheet for the added cost for shipping to the US, with a minimum of a 6-bottle half case.  It is a very good shipping price. You can also order from their website, with a minimum of 6 bottles of single wine.

2020 Carmignani Tentazione Chardonnay, Toscana IGT  13.5% ABV, $28 (#976)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Tentazione IGT is made from Chardonnay (90%) and Pinot gris (10%) grapes harvested in mid-August.  The fermentation is made in stainless steel vats. This pale yellow coloured wine has got fruity aromas of citrus, white mulberry and undergrowth, a good persistence of taste and it expresses itself perfectly if combined with grilled fish, munière plaice and seafood risotto.”

 My Review: Light golden in color. Mostly Chardonnay and a little Pinot Gris. Pineapple and canteloup, on the nose. Melon on the palate with a slightly bitter finish. April 2023

2020 Carmignani Urano Sauvignon Blanc, Toscana IGT, 13.5% ABV, $28 (#977)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This delicious wine is made from 100% sauvignon blanc grapes harvested in mid-September. After the fermentation in stainless steel vats, the wine remains in the bottle for 3-4 months. The colour is bright straw-yellow. The nose reveals a good intensity with the characteristic aromas of passion fruit, litchis and pineapple, and grassy notes of tomato leaf. Good minerality. In the mouth its intense, fresh and fruity. Tasty. It can be combined with crab and shrimps as well as fried chicken and the classic “Milanese cutlet”.”

 My Review:  Straw to light in the glass. Grilled pineapple on the nose. Pineapple on the light palate with earthy flavors mid palate and a lemony finish. April 2023

2021 Carmignani Montecarlo Bianco, Montecarlo DOC, 13.5% ABV, $22 (#978) 40% Trebbiano, 10% ea: Semillon, Roussane, Vermentino, Malvasia Bianca, Sauvignon, Chardonnay

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our winery is the only one to use seven different varieties of grapes to produce this traditional wine of the area. The grapes are Trebbiano, Pinot gris, Pinot blanc, Vermentino, Sauvignon blanc, Semillon and Roussanne. The fermentation takes place in steel at a controlled temperature, followed by the refinement on the fine lees with weekly batonnage for 3/4 months. In the following spring it is bottled and aged for 2/3 months. Straw yellow coloured with greenish hues, it has an intense, fruity and mineral aroma, with floral hints of broom. In the mouth the wine delights the palate with its fresh and soft taste of yellow pulp fruits and kikinger. Good combination with white meats and grilled fish.” 

 My Review: Straw in the glass. White blossom, peach, cantaloupe and a touch of Gorgonzola on the nose. Flavors dance on the palate – my favorite white. April 2023

Carmignani Kapogiro Rose, Toscana IGT, $27 (#979) 35% Syrah, 35% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot

Winemaker’s Notes: “The rose perfumed Sangiovese, plummy Merlot and spicy Sirah give this rosè wine a refreshing perfume of red flowers,  berries and melon with hints of cream. Harvested in mid-September, fermented under controlled temperature and refined on fine lees for about 4-5 months, it has a pleasant and refreshing taste, supported by a good acidity and a delicate flavor of red berries. Its beautiful peel onion colour caresses the sight. Serve at 10°C combined with appetizers, white meat, Parma or Tuscan ham with melon, shrimp cocktail.”

 My Review:  Pale salmon in the glass. A sweet bouquet followed strawberry and candied fruit on the palate. Nice wine. April 2023

2019 Carmignani Intrigo Chardonnay, Toscana IGT, 14% ABV, $39 (#980)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our Intrigo is made from 100% chardonnay grapes and aged in Hungarian acacia barrels for eight months. These barrels, instead of covering the typical citrus taste of the grape, exalts  and completes it. After being bottled, the wine rests for another six months. It has got an intense straw yellow colour. At the nose it reveals notes of acacia honey, yellow plum and natural vanilla. The wine is fresh, tasty and round: the yellow plum note comes back as well as the natural vanilla, leaving in the mouth a pleasant perfume of acacia flowers. Wonderful if paired with medium-aged cheese, grilled meat and fish” 

 My Review:  Golden in the glass. Caramel on the nose. Very strong flavors and toasty oak on the palate. April 2023

2021 Carmignani Montecarlo Rosso, Montecarlo DOC, 13.5% ABV, $22 (#981) 50% Sangiovese, 10% ea: Marlavsia Rossa, Canaiolo, Cilliegiolo, Merlot, Syrah

Winemaker’s Notes: “Montecarlo Rosso DOC is made from six different grapes: Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malvasia nera. The grapes are harvested at the beginning of October and fermented at a temperature between 28°C and 30°C for 12-14 days. The wine remains in stainless steel vats  for 6 -7 months after the fermentation and another 3-4 months in the bottle. The taste is quite intense and fragrant with perfumes of cherry, rose and raspberry. With its pleasant and refreshing taste and its good structure, it matches perfectly with grilled beef, meat sauce, meat stews and the traditional “Tordellilucchesi”.” 

 My Review: Garnet in the glass. Alcohol and back cherry on the nose. Spicy on the palate. Cherry on the palate. Very dry finish. Seemed that the alcohol was not in balance. April 2023

2019 Carmignani Theorema, Toscana IGT, 14.5% ABV, $33 (#982) 30% ea: Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Sangiovese

Winemaker’s Notes: “The harvest is in early October and after the fermentation, the wine ages in French oak barrels for 18 months. Once bottled, it rests in the bottle for another six months. Its colour is intense ruby red with orange nuances. It perfumes of ripened blueberries, black cherry, black pepper, vanilla, butter, tamarind and tobacco leaves. Pair with wild boar, game, stews and mature cheese.”

 My Review:  Inky in the glass. Alcohol and dark red fruit on the nose. Rustic. A bit cooked fruit on the palate and alcoholic finish. This has potential, probably our favorite wine of the day. April 2023

2015 Carmignani Vin Santo, Montecarlo DOC, 16% ABV, $33 (#983) 90% Trebbiano, 10% Colombana

Winemaker’s Notes: “This traditional sweet wine from the province of Lucca is made of Trebbiano and Colombana grapes harvested in late October. The grapes are dried on reed mats for three months. After pressing, it ferments naturally and ages in small wooden barrels called “Caratelli” for four years. This procedure gives the wine its typical amber colour and gives it its compex aromas of honey, caramel, tropical fruits and peanuts. In the mouth it develops its fantastic taste of dried pineapple, figs and apricot as well as acacia honey and hazelnut, never being excessively sweet thanks to its good acidity. Good when paired with mature cheese, almond desserts, hazelnut cookies.”

 My Review: Dark caramel color in the glass. Sweet nose of caramel and alcohol. My notes are a little skimpy by this point in the tasting, but I recall liking this wine. April 2023

Tasting Carmignani Wines: I’ve included a link to their tasting options – definitely worth a visit if you are in the area – and take a tour of Montecarlo before or after your tasting.  I think we did the Sensory tasting and would recommend that or the Light Lunch if you make it there.

© Decanting Monterey 2023