Monthly Archive: July 2020

Just in Time for the Weekend: Carmel Valley Village Tasting Room Update!

As I started to write my first blog posts, I realized, if I am going to do a Real Wine Blog, that I need a lot more photos. It’s been kind of overcast and cool in Pacific Grove, day after day. Last weekend, I decided I would drive out to Carmel Valley Village where I would be sure to find some warmth and sunshine and could take some pictures of the tasting rooms. I was able to check out their outdoor wine tasting venues, as that’s what’s permitted here in Monterey County as of this writing. A nice warm sunny day, lots of wine flowing everywhere. Except to me – I was on a mission!

I parked in front of the former location of Mercy’s tasting room and set out on foot.  (I miss Mercy so much.) The tasting rooms in Carmel Valley Village are easily walk-able, unless you are intending to buy a lot of wine!  As you go through this list, please remember we are living in a very fluid situation right now.  If you are planning a wine tasting visit, the best option is to review the winery’s web page to see if they are open and if you need a reservation. Safety is the most important feature of each of these venues.

I began my trip with Massa Estate, 69 W. Carmel Valley Road, as it was where we started our Monterey County wine exploration way back when. It is the first tasting room as you enter the village. The owner, Laurie Massa, welcomed me in, showed me their tasting list, and allowed me to take photos of their outdoor space.  Massa has an incredible outdoor space to not only taste wine, but also for food. Local Chef Michael Jones is here with a very special menu – you can taste the wines and order a meal – or carry one out.  So many cute, outdoor tables with umbrellas – it’s just adorable here. In addition, there’s croquet in the front lawn so you can come, play, and relax. Open Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

Massa Estate has a cute, fun, yet elegant outdoor space.

The next winery I went to was Georis, 1 Pilot Road. We’ve always had a fondness for the brand, as Gaston Georis (Walter’s brother) once taught my husband French!  Their indoors wine tasting bar and room is very large (for better times). Their outdoor spaces are incredible for significantly socially distance tables for any sized party, even a larger, private event, as appropriate. I would feel very comfortable coming to Georis to do winetasting of primarily his great Merlots. Open daily, 11:30 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Georis has the largest outdoor space with distanced tables, and a vineyard setting.

Then I walked over to Seabold, 2 Pilot Road. I am not yet familiar with Seabold, so it was a good way to meet them and see their outdoor spaces.  They have smaller outdoor tables as well as big picnic benches and the occasional late afternoon music. Open Thursday-Sunday 12-5 p.m. 

Seabold: Great space and some music, too!

Cowgirl Winery, 26 Pilot Road, has incredible outdoor space for wine tasting and fun – open 11:30-5 daily.  (Sorry, I didn’t make it there to get pictures.)

Even though their wines come from elsewhere, I include Twisted Roots in my blog because of their tasting room location at 12 Del Fino Place (oh, and we enjoy their great wines).  They also have a nice outdoor setup on the side of their building open Thursday-Sunday 12-5 p.m.  Reservations suggested.

Twisted Roots has an excellent, quiet outdoor space for wine tasting!

I walked by Bunter Spring at 9 Del Fino Place, which is not doing public tastings until further notice.  Mark Bunter told me he is doing pickups by appointment, free local delivery, 20% off any six bottles, 25% off twelve bottles, and half-price shipping to CA, DC and FL only.

Bunter Spring is closed for tastings and Idle Hour is moving down the street!

Idle Hour right next door had a big sign saying they were moving in with Big Sur Vineyard’s tasting room at the end of the street.  That was welcome news to me, as collocation with Big Sur will probably result in a more constant presence than the out-of-town Idle Hour could always provide.

Big Sur Vineyards at 1 Del Fino Place was setting up as I dropped by.  Owner Lenora Carey showed me something really cool they are using for their outdoor wine tastings – wine vials that look like big test tubes called “taste tubes!”  Customers receive the flight of wines in a tube rack and pour their own when ready, improving social distancing during the tasting. Open Thursday-Sunday 12-6 p.m.

Big Sur Vineyards is using these cool “Taste Tubes” for a more touch-free experience!

Joullian, 2 Village Drive, is open daily 12-4 p.m. – reservations required.  They had a couple of small tables visible on their front patio.

Bernardus is still closed for in-person wine experiences due to their current focus on wine production and some virtual wine tastings.

Boekenoogen, 24 W. Carmel Valley Road, has an incredible outdoor patio, so their transition to outdoor operations was very easy.  They are open daily, 12-5 p.m.

The lovely patio was occupied, so photos will have to wait.

I’d been talking to Rombi Wines, 1 Center Street, which, like the rest of the wineries, had just set it all up for indoor operations when the order came down to move things outside.  Sal Rombi was able to create a relaxing, quiet spot to taste his big wines just in front of his tasting room.   Open Saturday-Sunday 12-5 p.m.

Rombi’s first outdoor tasting guests!

Joyce, 1 E. Carmel Valley Road, has a nice outdoor space and some great wine sales.   Reservations preferred; weekends also first come, first served.  Wednesday-Friday 12-5 p.m.  Saturday-Sunday 12-6 p.m.

Over to Albatross Ridge, 9 E. Carmel Valley Road, which showed me their outdoor space behind their tasting room – a lovely space with plenty of tables.  Sunday-Thursday 12-7 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 12-8 p.m. Reservations preferred.  They are open in Carmel-by-the-Sea, as well.

Finally, a very short walk over to the old White Oak shopping center at 19 E. Carmel Valley Road, where the rest of these tasting rooms can be found: 

We were invited several weeks ago by Parsonage to help them test-drive their indoor wine tasting procedures (they learned a lot from our visit, as we tasted EVERY wine!) – only to have to revamp their procedures and space for outdoor operations.  They have built a parklet and are able to serve several tables outdoors.  Reservation required.  Thursday-Monday 12-5 p.m.

Parklet photo courtesy of Parsonage – very clever!

Rexford Winery tasting room is closed.  For a limited time, they are offering complimentary shipping on new orders of 3 or more bottles.  Chesebro tasting room was likewise closed. 

Windy Oaks is using a couple of small tables in front of its tasting room for outdoor operations.  The staff is very welcoming.  According to their website, the Carmel Valley tasting room is open Friday-Tuesday 12-5:30 – reservations recommended. Their Carmel-by-the-Sea location is open for limited tastings Wednesday-Monday 12-6 p.m. by reservation.

 I Brand also has some small outdoor tables and is open Thursday-Sunday 12-6 and by reservation.  

These wineries are so happy to be sharing their wines with you.  I hope, if you get a chance, that you will get out to the valley and try some yourself.  Check to see if they require a reservation and confirm they are open.  It all looked good to me!  Come on out, give it a shot come out and support your local vintners.

Bernardus Marinus 2010 and Parrot Ranch 2005

2010 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $65 Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 59%, Merlot 29%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%

2005 Parrot Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, $25*, 14.1% ABV. Blend:  Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Cabernet Franc 9%, Merlot 4%

As I continue my trek through Carmel Valley AVA’s Cachagua region, it is my pleasure to introduce the truly local, long time powerhouse – Bernardus.

Bernardus – The First Tasting Room in Carmel Valley!

I relied heavily on their webpage to summarize this overview over the years I have been presenting their wines.

A former race car driver and Olympic athlete, Dutch Owner Ben Pon’s dream with Bernardus was to make a red wine equal to the finest from Bordeaux. He selected Carmel Valley, confident his vineyards there could produce wines to rival the greatest on the globe.

More than a quarter-century later, he’s accomplished his goal, not only with his estate Bordeaux blend, called Marinus (after his middle name) selling for $75-$125, but with a powerhouse portfolio of single-vineyard-designated Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sadly, Mr. Pon passed away in the Fall of 2019, but his legacy continues. Making over 50,000 cases/year Bernardus has many wines available throughout the US.

A Lineup of Marinus Wines from Our Wine Room!

I’m presenting two of their wines from Cachagua today – two of the 55+ wines from the Central Coast we tasted and reviewed while sheltering in place.

The Carmel Valley’s terrain and climate is ideal for creating rich, full bodied wines; the Bordeaux varietals are favorites here, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comprising more than 70% of the grapes grown in the AVA.

Ben Pon also had the foresight 20 years ago to open the first tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. It is one of the nicest tasting rooms in the valley – we would always stop in to taste their wines and see what was on sale. They kept telling us we should join their club, but we are very specific in the wines we like to buy. One day, I realized they had a “Marinus only” club and we joined immediately. We have reaped many benefits from private tastings to winemaker dinners since we joined. Let’s dig a little deeper into the Marinus wines…

A Fun, Private Bernardus Tasting with Friends, April 2019

From Bernardus: “Carmel Valley is surrounded by the ridges of the Santa Lucia Mountains. Cachagua Valley is a sun-trap, a “bowl” in a high elevation that is shielded from the coastal fog and ideal for growing Bordeaux-style grapes. The daily temperatures vary from over 100° F. during the day to 50° F. during the night…Marinus vineyard soils are varied. They range from clay loam to sandy loam…Each vintage of Marinus represents the artistic interpretation of the vineyard cultivation along with the flavor elaboration in the winemaking process. A blend of Bordeaux varitetais, Marinus is the signature Bernardus wine from the Carmel Valley estate vineyard…”

2010 Marinus tasting notes:

From the winery: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

2010 Bernardus Marinus: Drink Me Now!

My Review of the 2010 Marinus: We’ve been enjoying this wine for several years now and it does not disappoint.  Drink now.  One of my favorite events of 2019 was attending a Marinus Winemaker’s Dinner catered by a local chef.  They served a different vintage with each course.  That was an amazing night.  Sure hope we get to do that again.  This wine is available for purchase from the winery – watch for sales! May 2020

2005 Parrot Ranch tasting notes:

From the winery: “Robe: Deep crimson-red color. Youthful aromas of cherries and cranberries accented with notes of cedar, toasty oak and spice beautifully express the excellence of the terroir of Carmel Valley.  The vibrant flavors of ripe red fruits, licorice and cedar accented with mineral notes are concentrated and well -focused. Our 2005 Parrot Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon is drinking wonderfully now, but the freshness of flavor and fine tannins on the finish promise a rewarding future for several years to come.” 3,000 cases produced.

2005 Parrot Ranch

My review of the 2005 Parrot Ranch: Intense red berries, sweet and pleasantly jammy. Smooth and very elegant, soft round tannins and intense aftertaste.  Any-day occasion wine with a quality feel provided by the aging process, plummy liquorish feel with earthy and forest floor flavors. Drink now. March 2020

My understanding is when the fruit doesn’t meet the quality for the Marinus label, it has occasionally been bottled under the Parrot Ranch label.  We have purchased many cases of this wine and I presented it in one of my Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar wine classes – a bit hit.  We at times purchased it for only $10/bottle and are still enjoying it.  It is sold out.

Their wines can be found in many wine shops around the U.S., with the best place to order directly on its webpage.

As of this writing, Bernardus has not re-opened their tasting room and is focusing on wine production and virtual wine tastings.

2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua

2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $25-39

81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Pinot Noir, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3 % Malbec, < 1% Merlot, Petite Sirah & Petit Verdot

Massa Estate Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village

When we first started to visit Carmel Valley for its wines, we used to stop at a place called Heller Estate.  It was the first tasting room on the left.  Back then, we remember buying half bottles of delicious Durney Cabernet Sauvignon.  Durney Vineyards produced wine from roughly 1979-1996.  Heller Estate bought out Durney ~1996 and, in recent years (~2017), Bill Massa, a long-time Salinas farmer, bought the estate.   When we saw the name change on the tasting room, we stopped in, talked to Laurie Massa, and picked up this 2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.    

Cachagua (cah-SHAH-wah) is part of the Carmel Valley AVA.  From Monterey County Vintners & Producers: “Cachagua Valley’s unique mountainous setting sits high above the fog-line along the coast and exposes the grapes to a warmer overall climate. Average summer temperatures can reach into the 100’s with cool evenings dropping into the low 30’s and 40’s. This dramatic swing in temperature extends the ripening time and growing season, allowing the grapes a slow maturation process for eventual complexity in the fruit and the wine.”  Wineries with vineyards in Cachagua include Bernardus, Galante, Georis, Joullian, Massa (Heller), and Rombi.  I will be presenting wines from Cachagua first!

The Current Massa Estate Tasting Lineup

Massa Estate describes this region and wine as follows:  “Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” meaning ‘hidden waters’), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful mountain vineyards of the Heller Estate. The 120 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir are planted at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet, producing rich, luscious grapes, which result in outstanding premium wines. The vineyards are certified 100% organic…” According to the winery, 2015 was a tough growing season, marked by continuing drought and a cold, windy, cloudy May.  The mild summer helped compensate, enhancing the fruit’s color in its Bordeaux varietals. 

Love this “Dances On Your Palate” label!

This wine spent 20 months in oak barrels.  Massa describes this wine as follows:  Aroma of “juicy berries such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry with hints of bay laurel, earthiness and spice…Cassis and blackberry greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. On the finish there are notes of dark chocolate and mocha. Pair this wine with braised stuffed cabbage rolls, roasted root vegetables or a juicy hamburger topped with sautéed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”

My review: Dense, dark red color.  Nose brimming with cherry, with oak and yeasty notes.  Bursting with dark fruit on palate (cassis and blackberry) with pleasant acidity.  Solid tannic structure, with the oak coming through.  A bit earthy.

You can taste and purchase this wine at the Massa Estate Tasting Room at 69 W Carmel Valley Rd, Carmel Valley.  They have a lovely outdoor patio and you can also order from Chef Michael Jones’ menu for patio dining or carry-out.  1000Corks lists this wine as available primarily in the New York area for $22-24 plus tax and shipping. 

Lovely, Relaxing Setting at Massa Estate’s Tasting Room

How Did I Discover Monterey Wines?

A Lineup of Some Great Monterey County Wines

First and foremost, welcome to Decanting Monterey!  I thought I should start at the beginning and tell you how we first became familiar with Monterey County’s many fine wines.  For decades, we had been going to Napa and Sonoma to taste and buy wines.  We also spent time in Cambria, not far from the fine wines of Paso Robles.  Yet the main destination of those trips was always Pacific Grove, where my in-laws lived.  And when it was chilly and foggy in Pacific Grove, we could always go to Carmel Valley for warmth and sunshine.

We started visiting the tasting rooms in Carmel Valley in the late 1990’s.  Back then, we knew about Bernardus (the first tasting room to open in Carmel Valley!), Chateau Julien (now Folktale), Chateau Sinnet, Georis, Heller (formerly Durney and now Massa Estates), Joullian, and Talbott. We were fortunate at Heller to pick up some amazing half-bottles of Durney Cabernet Sauvignon from its estate in Cachagua, where some of the Carmel Valley AVA’s finest wines are grown. 

As the years went by, it seemed every time we went to Carmel Valley, we would find new tasting rooms and wines to explore.  We would ask, “What other wines should we check out?” and we were guided to new places to explore.  We asked this question at Joullian and its tasting room staff said, “Let me make a phone call.” He called up to Parsonage and asked if we could come up to taste their wines.  The winemaker there, asked if we were serious wine buyers and the answer was yes.  We headed up to the winery (before they had a tasting room) and discovered that Carmel Valley can produce the big reds we love.  They turned us on to their neighboring winery, Boëté, and later, Silvestri. 

Inside the Parsonage Winery

We saw more and more tasting rooms open every time we drove out to Carmel Valley Village.  Boekenoogen, Cima Collina, and the string of tasting rooms in the old White Oak shopping center – back then it was Parsonage, Holman Ranch, Chesebro, Chalone, Joyce, Marilyn Remark, and Dawn’s Dream.  Today, swap in Rexford and I Brand.  And along Pilot Road where Cowgirl and Talbott are, some wineries from elsewhere opened tasting rooms: Idle Hour, Twisted Roots and Bunter Spring.  And Rombi opened showcasing his huge Cabs and Merlots. 

We didn’t just taste wine in Carmel Valley – we also explored the many wineries in Carmel, including Blair, Figge, Galante, Hahn, Scheid, Silvestri, Wrath and more.  Plus a “research trip” drive down the Salinas Valley to the Arroyo Seco AVA to see first had some of my favorite vineyards including Zabala and Cedar Lane and back up to taste wines at Wrath, Hahn, Pessagno, Puma Road and Odonata.   Check out a current map of tasting rooms here.

Rolling Vineyards in Salinas Valley

Before we moved back to the Monterey area, I began to present Monterey wines as a volunteer wine educator at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar (WWCS) in Washington DC, where I had been a member since about 1999.  That’s when I learned about the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association  – the best place for authoritative information about Monterey wines.  Kim Stemler has been very helpful to me in getting information for my classes.  I have also presented Monterey Wines to the Northern Virginia American Wine Society chapter, as well as a class on Paicines AVA wines for WWCS. 

I started to be referred to as the Monterey wine expert.  I decided if I was going to have that label, I’d better get some official training.  I completed the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust Level 1 in January 2020.  I see this blog website as my next big step.  Now, let’s get onto some wine reviews!

Where Can We Buy Monterey Wines?

I’m often asked “Where can I buy these great wines you are writing about?”.  A few exceptions off the top of my head would be the larger producers, including Bernardus, Hahn, J. Lohr, and Talbott.  Some of the Napa and Sonoma wineries, such as Robert Mondavi and Kenwood, also make Monterey-designated wines.  You will find some of these wines in your grocery stores, at Total Wine, even Costco and Target. 

Many of the wineries I frequent have such small production that you will not see them distributed nationally.  I’ve had difficulty when preparing for a DC-based wine class to find bottles I could purchase there, with one notable exception:  I’ve found both Ian Brand and Hahn wines at Pearson’s Wine and Spirits in Washington DC, which really saved me for my 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class. 

I maintain the best place to buy Monterey wines is directly from the winery.  Their individual websites will tell you how to purchase their wines.  Many are offering special deals during this pandemic semi-shutdown. 

We are fortunate here to be able to find some local wines in our markets (Safeway, Andronico’s, Grove Market, to name a few). I’ve put together a few other places where you can buy Monterey wines – if you know of others, please let me know:

A Taste of Monterey, 700 Cannery Row in Monterey is a great resource for a wide variety of Monterey and Central Coast wines.  In addition to a carryout menu, they have membership and sales options. https://www.atasteofmonterey.com/

The Wine Experience, 381 Cannery Row in Monterey also has Monterey and Central Coast wine shopping options.  http://wineexperience.org/

Star Market at 1275 S. Main St., Salinas has a fabulous Central Coast wine collection, boasting wines from over 90% of Monterey County wineries plus a great collection beyond Monterey.  See Victor Kong, Managing Partner and head of its Wine and Liquor Department.  https://www.starmkt.com/

Bottles ’n’ Bins Liquors & Deli at 898 Lighthouse Ave, Monterey has a decent selection of local wines.

Pacific Grove Bottle Shop at 1112 Forest Ave #5105, Pacific Grove has a knowledgeable staff and good selection of local wines.  https://www.facebook.com/PacificGroveBottleShop/

Happy shopping!

So many Monterey/Central Coast wines to explore! Here a re a few of ours!

Fun Local Wine Experiences

In addition to visiting wineries and tasting rooms directly, there are a number of other fun experiences to be had in the Monterey area.  I recognize during the pandemic, many of these experiences may be closed or operating differently.  As I learn exact status, I will attempt to keep this updated.  If you know of others, please add in a comment!

A Taste of Monterey at 700 Cannery Row in Monterey is normally a great place to sample a wide variety of Monterey and Central Coast wines without trekking to all the tasting rooms.  They have a nice food menu for pairing with wines.  They also have a membership and sales options. As of this posting, they are only doing takeout. https://www.atasteofmonterey.com/

The Wine Experience at 381 Cannery Row in Monterey is another great place to taste Monterey and Central Coast wines – plus a fun experience to blend your own wines.  Right now they are offering outdoor dining and takeout available.  http://wineexperience.org/

Wine Trolley can take you from Monterey out to Carmel Valley for wine tasting – a fun and easy way to explore Monterey wines starting at $125 per person – includes transportation, a guide, tasting at several wineries, and lunch.  Great orientation with lots of good wine at some of my favorite spots.  Make a reservation here:  http://www.toursmonterey.com/

Cane and Spur offers small group or private tours to local wineries with a very knowledgeable guide who stays with you throughout your trip.  You obtain more information and can make a reservation here: http://www.caneandspur.com/

Resources


There are many free, online resources for learning more about Monterey and Central Coast wines – or about wine in general. Here are a few of my favorites, not to give away all my secrets:

The absolute best, authoritative Monterey wine resource site is the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association – I rely on them extensively when looking for information for my nonprofit wine education presentations:  https://montereywines.org/

Wine.com is another great resource for understanding a particular wine region, as well as buying wine: https://www.wine.com/# .  I enjoy Winfred Wong’s reviews. 

Antonio Galloni’s Vinous also contains great wine region information and reviews: https://vinous.com/.

CellarTracker is another place to find information on wines, consumer reviews, professional reviews (when they have them), where wines are being sold, as well as a place to catalog the wines in your own collection:  https://www.cellartracker.com/

K&L Wine Merchant is another place I find professional wine reviews:  https://www.klwines.com/

Welcome to Decanting Monterey!

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I’m delighted to share my passion for Monterey wines with you! It is my goal to demystify Monterey wines for consumers and friends. I will focus on wines primarily from Monterey’s 9 distinct American Viticultural Areas (AVA). I will share my personal experiences and reviews, amplified with information from the wineries and other sources.  I welcome, in return, your own experiences, tasting notes, and feedback.

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