Back in 2019, on our “research” wine trip down the Salinas Valley’s River Road, we had a bit of a hard time finding the Smith Family tasting room at the Paraiso Estate Vineyard. With a fence and dirt roads ahead of us, we made a U-turn and found one of the most beautiful tasting room settings, with a breathtaking view of the Salinas Valley. Our first wine tasting of the day, we marched through the usual varietals – and then noticed cases of Zinfandel stacked behind us – with an awesome price. Made by the family’s son, Justin Murphy, this affordable Zinfandel could meet my wine class’ budget – so we took a case home for about $17/bottle!
The Smith Family has one of the most beautiful views, overlooking the Salinas Valley.
About Irie Wines summarized from the Gold Medal Wine Club (an excellent writeup of Justin Murphy and Irie Wines): Justin is the grandson of the Smith Family founders, who were among the pioneers who planted grapevines in the Santa Lucia Highlands and, along with the Hahn family, helped that AVA earn its designation. He took a job at Courtside Cellars which sparked his true calling as a winemaker. He moved to Sextant wines and, in 2006, began producing his own wines. He knew he had to make a distinctive Zinfandel to separate himself from the rest of the Paso Robles pack. He produced 3 wines: Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Rose. I believe he is no longer producing wines under the Irie label and is focusing on his winemaking role at Paraiso/Smith Family vineyard.
About the 2012 Irie Zinfandel: “Irie is the label chosen by winemaker-in-training Justin Murphy, grandson of the vineyard’s founders. He makes his 2012 Zinfandel from grapes grown on the west side of Paso Robles, about an hour south of Soledad. There’s also a Petite Syrah, but 2013’s bottling has sold out, and what’s in the pipeline is not available for tasting.
“We’ve tasted a lot of Zin from Paso Robles. But something happens to these grapes on their short ride north, and the Irie Zin is like no other. This wine is also a definite reflection of its terroir—gently sloping western coastal hills, surrounded by grazing pastures with dry native grasses, very hot in the daytime, with a vigorous arid afternoon wind. Aged for 16 months in 25 percent new French Oak, this Zin just been released and is a very limited production of 335 cases.”
My Review: Very dark red, yet a bit transluscent. Blackberry and pepper on the nose. Raspberry, blackberry and cassis on the palate with white pepper and a little leather on the finish. Pairs nicely with both spicy and sweet foods. August 2020
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
A friend of mine put me in touch with the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society. How wonderful to meet (virtually) like-minded wine aficionados! In August, they hosted a virtual wine tasting of Daou wines. It was a great event, presented by Daniel Daou himself and showcasing three of their wines.
Three terrific DAOU wines presented by Daniel Daou!
About Daniel Daou: “Daniel’s winemaking vision had one very singular focus-creating the highest possible quality Cabernet and Bordeaux wines. This mission had a critical ingredient-the Calcareous Clay soils of Bordeaux. For Daniel, there is no greater truth than the fact that great wine is made in the vineyard. His extreme focus on every detail-from the proper soil, to his proprietary planting structure that creates “total vine balance” his exacting, almost extreme, winegrowing philosophy allows for the grapes to arrive to the winery in the perfect condition to create wines that continue to rival the best in the world…Daniel was one of the first to bring Cabernet clones to Paso Robles that deliver the highest possible quality-clones from the iconic regions of the world such as Bordeaux and Napa.”
A high-end Sauvignon Blanc made in a unique process.
Winemaker Notes: “The 2019 DAOU Estate Sauvignon Blanc exemplifies how this classic Bordeaux variety excels on DAOU Mountain. The chalky soils of DAOU Mountain give this wine loads of minerality on the palate while concentrated aromas of stone fruits, guava, kiwi and citrus blossom travel through the glass to enrich your nose. A touch of Sémillon works in harmony with the Sauvignon Blanc, adding complexity and dimension. Full-bodied yet balanced, this wine provides for a complete experience with an impressively long finish.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Review – 92 Points: “The 2019 Sauvignon Blanc contains 19% Sémillon and was aged seven months in 50% new French oak. The nose opens with poached pears scents accented by beeswax, lychee, grapefruit and flowers. The medium-bodied palate has a great balance of bright fruit character and phenolic texture, and it finishes with good freshness and length.” Erin Brooks, October 2020
My Review: Pale in color (leaning toward green) with pear on the nose. Pear and bitter grapefruit on the palate with a tart finish. This is a pretty complex Sauvignon Blanc, a product of a unique process which Daniel Daou described in some detail to the group. It is not your every day Sauvignon Blanc. August 2020
A terrific example of a fine, high quality Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon.
Winemaker Notes: “The 2018 DAOU Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a shining example of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. This wine’s magnificent nose is quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon, offering scents of dark chocolate, licorice, blackberries and cured meats with a touch of cedar. The palate delivers an explosion of fresh, dark berry fruits. Flavors of blackberry, juicy black cherry, cassis and cocoa are underscored by lovely accents of blueberry and raspberry. A silky palate is nicely integrated with hints of toasty oak, graphite, mineral and forest floor. Ripe fruits and exotic spices linger on a generous, full-bodied finish that promises excellent age-worthiness.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Review – 91-93 Points: “The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. It is still in barrel and will age about 18 months in 50% new French oak. The nose opens with tar, cassis and gentle blue fruit touches with notes of dried herbs, milk chocolate and coffee beans. The medium to full-bodied palate is lushly fruited but very fresh, with lifted herbal character, bright freshness and a firm but very finely grained structure, finishing long.” Erin Brooks, October 2020
My Review: Garnet in color, almost purple. Dark jammy fruit on the nose. Very smooth and juicy, balanced and pleasant. August 2020
2017 DAOU Bodyguard, Paso Robles AVA, 14.7% ABV, $40 (#199*)
Winemaker Notes (previously captured from their website): “The 2017 DAOU Bodyguard is a sleek yet powerful blend of Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah, displaying both opulence and structure. The 2017 vintage presents fragrant fruit aromas of blackberry, raspberry, currant and crème de cassis. Notes of cocoa, coffee, dark chocolate, licorice and sweet cherry pipe tobacco are rounded out with whispers of truffle, toffee, mocha and menthol. A juicy, fleshy palate offers bright, generous flavors of cherry, cranberry, strawberry and blueberry tinged with black raspberry and tamarind—all supported by underlying accents of dusty leather, pencil shavings, cigar box and crushed herbs. An elegantly styled and beautifully structured finish reverberates with focused energy, vibrant berry fruit and ripe, polished tannins.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 Points: “In yet another stylishly packaged and powerful blend from the Daou brothers, this bottling combines hearty coffee, kirsch and pumice aromas with toasty vanilla and caramel on the nose. The tannic structure is soft and polished yet firm enough to uphold black-cherry, toffee and caramel flavors, which are bolstered by a black-rock minerality that lingers in the background.” Matt Kettmann, March 2020
My Review: Inky purple in color, bold flavors on the palate – really opened up into a delicious, big wine in the style I like. This is a great combination of 60% Petite Verdot and 40% Petite Sirah. August 2020
You can buy DAOU wines from their website or from retailers primarily in California and New York, with a few retailers in Michigan and Florida. They have special holiday items and packages here. DAOU is open for wine tasting with food pairings – learn more and reserve your spot here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Justin is known for its high-end, cleverly-named Bordeaux blends, such as Isosceles and Justification. Yet it also makes more reasonably-priced, single varietal wines, including today’s wine, the 2011 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon!
About Justin Winery: “…We planted our first vineyard back in 1981 with a mission to make world-class Bordeaux-style blends. Since then, we’ve expanded both our knowledge of viticulture in this unique region as well as our acreage…Rich in fossilized limestone from eons of marine deposits, JUSTIN’s soil is ideally suited to creating big, Bordeaux-style reds. The limestone “stresses” the vines, producing grapes that fully express their varietal character…Paso Robles’ distinctive microclimate offers the widest day-night temperature swings of any grape-growing region in California. The hot days allow the grapes to develop intense flavor, while the cool nights create great structure and balance.”
One of our favorite Cabernet Sauvignons from the Paso Robles AVA.
Winemaker notes found on www.wine.com: “Beautifully balanced, with attractive aromas of black fruit and spice, this smooth, ready to drink Cabernet is made with the same care as the highest quality, traditionally-made Bordeaux wines. Our grapes are hand-picked and then sorted by the berry for consistent quality and flavor. Justin Cabernet Sauvignon spends more than a year in traditional small oak barrels to impart a depth and complexity to the wine that expresses the influence of the ancient limestone soils and unique climate of Paso Robles.”
The 2011 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon was rated 91 points by Wine Spectator and 86 points by Wine Enthusiast.
From K&L Wine Merchants: “Like most producers in California in 2011, yields were down 30% at Justin. Aged for six months in 30% new 225L American oak barrels, this Cabernet shows classic Justin soft berry fruit and baking spice from oak ageing, but it also reveals a freshness, structure, and wafting aromatic quality that speak to the cool vintage – very elegant and appealing. Winemaker’s notes: “An attractive mix of red and black cherry with blackcurrant, cinnamon, cocoa, cedar and purple flowers. Palate: Medium body, with a complex mix of red and black fruit of cherries and currants, with cinnamon, a little cocoa, and classic cabernet varietal components with an unforgettable hint of violet in the background. The finish is long and crisp with red cherry, mineral and subtle floral components balanced by soft, medium tannins making this an elegant and versatile pairing wine that would be equally at home with Chateaubriand as it would with a burger or even pasta with a red sauce.” $25
My Review: Very dark in color, with dark fruit on the nose and sour cherries and cooked fruit on the palate, raisin, red currant, and cassis. We liked this wine. June 2020
This vintage would be hard to find, but the 2017 is available online for about $28. A great value.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Way back when, when we used to get down to the Paso Robles AVA for wine tasting, we “discovered” Pesenti as having some fabulous reds for reasonable prices. When my favorite Zin producer Larry Turley took them over in 2000, it gave us some acknowledgement that we were not the only ones who thought Pesenti Vineyards produced great fruit! I am presenting two Zinfandels and one Petite Sirah in this post.
I confess I am a Turley girl – 1/5 of my wines cellar is Turley…
About Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel: “This certified organic estate-owned vineyard was planted in the 1920’s on primarily limestone soil. Though the vines are head-trained and dry-farmed, the soil plays the most important role in distinguishing this vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles. The wines have a brightness, with chalk and floral aromas unique to the site, and to Zinfandel in general…With the calcaerous limestone and the occasional carignane vine interplanted with Zinfandel, the Pesenti Zin takes on a unique brightness leading to a “sweet-tart-esque” character.”
Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “Yields were down once again in Paso Robles, though luckily in 2016 we started to see the slightest bit of relief, rain-wise. As a result, the Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel is deeply concentrated yet refreshing. The tart red fruits on the initial nose are present as always, followed by Pesenti’s signature bright acidity and smooth tannin. The wine has a refined yet approachable palate presence, complemented by plenty of lift from the calcareous Pesenti soils, carrying through to a long invigorating finish.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – 93 Points: “From a site Turley owns in Paso Robles, the 2016 Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard exhibits a boisterous, fruit-driven bouquet of ripe raspberries, cherries and kirsch. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and generous, with tangy acids and fine structuring tannins largely concealed in a sweet core of fruit, tangy acids, light structuring tannins asserting themselves on the back end. It’s one of the most charming and immediate of this year’s single-vineyard bottlings.”
My Review: We drank this post-debate and finished the whole bottle without any difficulty. Deep garnet in the glass, blackberry and white pepper on the nose. Spicy blackberry, dark cherry and currant on the palate. A complex mix of jammy goodness with a touch of leather on the finish. There is really good fruit throughout in this wine. As it opened up, that fruit became rounder and deeper. This was a great vintage of this wine. (September 2020)
Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “Vibrant and always distinctive, the Pesenti Zinfandel makes its spring lineup debut! Fragrant red fruits, black raspberry, chalk dust, piquant spices and wild flowers all flourish on the nose. Lush yet linear on the palate, with fresh, lively acidity and profound depth. Intensely pleasurable now, and will age well.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – 93 points: “The Pesenti vineyard was planted in the 1920s on limestone soils. Deep ruby in color, the 2017 Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard gives savory notes of charcuterie over dried brambly fruits and crushed black cherries with hints of dried soil. Medium to full-bodied, it offers savory-laced fruits in the mouth with soft, grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing long with pretty dried flowers notes. 2,400 cases produced.”
My Review: SweeTart on the nose with raspberry and bright fruits. This high-alcohol wine seemd a bit volatile on the palate with a bit of harshness and leather on the finish. This wine might need a bit more time in the bottle or more aeration upon opening. July 2020
AboutPesenti Vineyard Petite Syrah: “This estate-owned and certified organic vineyard was planted by the Turley team using cuttings from the Hayne vineyard. Head-trained, dry-farmed and planted in limestone, the wines are dark, smooth, dense and classic Petite Syrah. As the vines age the wines are increasingly expressive of the Pesenti Vineyard with minerality, savory spices and high tone pepper.”
Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “If, like us, you are fans of the wines of the Northern Rhone Valley—Cornas in particular—then you’ll love the 2017 Pesenti Petite Syrah as much as we do! Lightly smoked, ripe dark fruits with fresh cracked pepper on the nose. The palate is surprisingly graceful despite its powerful heft, thanks to the excellent acidity in the soils. Dense, inky, and loaded with spice, the Pesenti Petite is a bold, deeply flavorful, and satisfying wine. We recommend giving it some time in the bottle and decanting well ahead of mealtime to best experience this powerful Petite.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – 98 points: “The 2017 Petite Syrah Pesenti Vineyard was bottled three weeks before I tasted it but is nonetheless showing beautifully. It has a very deep purple-black, opaque color and nose of crème de cassis, black cherry liqueur, cracked black pepper, bacon fat, savory green and black olive, violet, lilac, perfumed earth and tons of blue fruit jam notes. Full-bodied, rich and savory, it features wonderful black and blue fruit layers with tons of floral and savory perfume, very firm, chewy tannins, great freshness and a very long, savory finish.”
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in color. Blackberry and blueberry with a little brown sugar and rosemary on the nose. Full palate of dark, jammy fruit and black pepper with a slight bitterness on the finish. Truly a favorite. August 2020
*The price above is what we paid via their mailing list. They are offering some specials to anyone on their Remote Purchases website with the following notes: “At this time, we are allowing for both shipping and appointment-based pick-up orders in our Paso Robles tasting room. Please review our Shipping & Pick-up Information in advance of your order. Note: if you are shipping outside of CA, we strongly recommend a minimum 6 bottle order, to maximize shipping efficiency, cost and safety (we can only include ice packs in 6 bottle and higher shippers).”
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Everyone raves about the short ribs at Poppy Hall in Pacific Grove and one Saturday in June we decided to takeout short ribs. I noticed this $20 Cabernet Franc in the window and decided to try it. What a pleasant surprise!
About Madeleine Wines: “Madeleine was born in Belgium on March 6, 1911. Daughter of a wine merchant, she grew up developing her palate. Her whole life, she collected bottles that she would share with friends. Among them were my parents, and as a boy I had my first sip. In 2005, the first vintage of Madeleine was produced, a tribute to her life and gratitude for her inspiration.” I am presuming this is Damien Georis speaking, also the winemaker at Georis and no relation to Walter Georis – even though they come from the same small home town in Belgium! This wine is produced at Georis’ winery.
2016 Madeleine Maddie Red Wine, Central Coast, 13.5% ABV, $20 (#71*)
Deliciously paired with Poppy Hall Short Ribs!
From the Bottle: “Crafted in the “Loire Valley” style, that will perfectly complement your everyday meal. Un vin de table pour un Plaisir quotidien!”
From the Winemaker: “Opens up with scents of cherry, black olive, leather and truffle. The fruits are ripe and the mouth is full with medium tannins. The finish is dry, chalky and lingering with nuances of thyme and sage. 275 cases produced.
Review from Brix and Barrel, “This Cab Franc will remind you of cherries and truffles when it hits your nose, and the tasting notes have ripe fruit with an amazing dry finish…A lighter-bodied Cab Franc, Strawberry, and some acidity. It was aged in neutral oak, so it will be a brighter red wine that pairs great with food.”
My Review: This is a lighter red in color/density compared to the huge Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux wines we usually consume. Has a dark fruit bouquet with a touch of tobacco. Cherry and raspberry on the palate, very smooth and delicious. We decanted this wine just before consumption. Our daughter liked this wine and it paired nicely with our short ribs. I like this better than other Central Coast Cabernet Francs made in the Loire style.
Available from the winery’s webpage and at Poppy Hall for $20.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
One of my local friends says she loves the Hahn GSM, which she buys at our local market, Andronico’s. We like Hahn wines and featured their SLH Pinot Noir in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class. While we tend to avoid the widely-marketed, mass-produced wines, I wanted to give this one a try. This is another Central Coast-designated wine.
Their Estate tasting room is located in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands.
From www.hahnwines.com : “Our founder, Nicky Hahn, grew up speaking German. In his native language, the word ‘Hahn’ means rooster, which is why a depiction of this bird has always graced the label of our Hahn wines. From the beginning, Nicky strove to produce exceptional varietal wines from Monterey County where Hahn’s vineyards and winery are located. (My note: The Hahns played a key role in getting the SLH AVA established in 1991.)
“This assemblage of classically-styled varietal wines—along with our GSM Rhone-inspired blend—are now under the care of second-generation vintner Philip Hahn, who proudly carries on his father’s legacy. Vintage after vintage, we style our Hahn wines to be fruit-forward, balanced and supple. Our vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco AVAs are a significant source of fruit for these wines.”
Hahn 2018 GSM, Central Coast, 14.5% ABV, $15* (#43)
A Wine Enthusiast Top Best Buy in 2020!
About the GSM from Hahn Wines: “Inspired by the Rhône blends of Southern France, our GSM combines the character of each component into rich layers of flavors and textures. Bright, fruity Grenache grown in Arroyo Seco contributes raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavors, while Syrah from the Santa Lucia Highlands lends color, tannins and hints of blueberry and black pepper. A small amount of Mourvèdre contributes richness to the mid-palate and lengthens the dry finish.”
Winemaker’s Notes (same link above): “Enticing aromas of strawberry, black cherry, white pepper and cinnamon. On the palate, notes of raspberry, a hint of cinnamon spice, along with strawberry and black cherry. Finishing with a smooth and luscious mouthfeel.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 90 Points and #43 of Top 100 Best Buys in 2020: “Aromas of dark red berry and crumpled hibiscus make for a delicious entry to the nose of this blend of 69% Grenache, 29% Syrah and 2% Mourvèdre. The palate is lively in acidity and texturally engaging, carrying flavors of dark berry, licorice and star anise.” Matt Kettmann, 11/2020
My Review: Deep red in color, with a mellow berry and currant on the nose. Smooth cherry and cedar on the palate, with a slightly leathery, tobacco finish. This opened up to be a very drinkable and enjoyable wine. It is such a great value and taste – hard to believe such a great wine came from my grocery store.
I purchased this for $11 at Andronico’s. You can find some Hahn wines at Pearson’s in Washington DC.
Hahn Tasting Rooms are located a their estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands, as well as in Carmel Plaza. They are open by reservation only – you can find more information here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I mentioned previously that I took some of my new girlfriends to Hollister in San Benito County to explore their wines back in August 2019. The drive out was on a rough and windy road (funny, we don’t remember that coming back…). We started out at Calera, where we had our picnic lunches outside in 90-degree heat (really sweltering for us Central Coast gals). The wines were presented in flight stemware servers. The wines were great and the experience, special!
We enjoyed our August 2019 visit to Calera – for most of us, our first exposure to their wines.
Calera, part of the Duckhorn family of wines, is known primary for its Pinot Noirs from Mt. Harlan, but today’s wine is a Chardonnay, so I am focusing on that story. From www.calerawine.com: “Josh Jensen’s winemaker mentors in Burgundy were adamant that pinot noir and chardonnay must be grown in limestone-rich soils…to make great wines. Upon his return from France in 1971 he spent two years searching throughout California to find limestone…In early 1974, Josh Jensen purchased a high-elevation parcel with a limestone deposit of several million tons. Located 100 miles south of San Francisco and about 37 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, the limestone-rich parcel is found near Mt. Harlan in San Benito County. Its elevation at 2,200 feet above sea level makes it one of the highest and coolest vineyard properties in California.” “Calera” is the Spanish word for “limekiln.”
Calera 2016 Chardonnay, Central Coast, 14.2% ABV, $25 (#64*)
The 2016 Chardonnay: golden in color, with aromas of peach and pear, and pineapple notes.
About the 2016 vintage: “After five years of drought, we welcomed a return to normal winter rainfall in 2016…After a warm spring led to an early budbreak, summer seemed to arrive quickly on the Central Coast. While, we had abundant warmth in July and August, cool evenings allowed the grapes to mature perfectly, and harvest commenced in mid-August. While the grapes were small and dense, good-sized clusters delivered yields close to our annual averages…”
The 2016 Chardonnay is truly a “Central Coast” wine.
The Calera 2016 Central Coast Chardonnay is 100% Chardonnay, aged 10 months in 90% neutral French oak. The grapes come from San Benito, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Luis Obispo counties, making it truly “Central Coast.” From the winemaker: “Vibrant and inviting, this wine captures the essence of Chardonnay grown on the cool, windswept Central Coast. Aromas of jasmine, vanilla bean and passion fruit rise from the glass revealing this wine’s youthful charm. On the beautifully fruit-driven palate, layers of green apple, grapefruit and pineapple are framed by subtle oak and a refreshing acidity that carry the flavors to a bright, focused finish.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 91 points: “The nose of this wine is sharp and precise in tones of chalk, tangerine cream, dried lemon and crushed nuts. There’s a strong mineral quality through the entire palate that accents flavors of lemon juice and yellow pear.” MATT KETTMANN
My Review: The wine is a golden color, with aromas of peach and pear, and pineapple notes. It is a big, delicious, mouthfilling, a little bit oaky Chardonnay, with a little bitter lemon-lime on the finish. We enjoyed this Chardonnay very much, both back at last August’s tasting and during our Shelter-in-Place. This is a keeper.
You can purchase the current vintage (2018) for $25 on their webpage here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
One of the things Ian Brand is known for is sourcing grapes wherever he can find them to create his wines. In this blog post, I am reviewing 3 of their I. Brand & Family wines – each from a different county in the Central Coast. This post prepares us for our next move into Central Coast-labeled wines.
2018 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#86*)
This unique 2018 Pinot Gris is lovely in color and flavors.
We pulled this wine out in June for a farewell for our daughter as she headed off on another adventure. I had looked at this bottle earlier in the week for a Rosé class, but there was nothing on it to say it was one. Except the wax over the cork was orange instead of yellow, as is the case in Ian Brand’s whites. And that is because Pinot Gris will naturally give you an orange wine. Who knew?
From grapelive.com – 92 points: “…Coming from the low yielding terraces at Eden Rift in Cienega Valley, not far from Calera in San Benito County, Brand’s Pinot Gris is wonderfully textural and charming on the palate with juicy peach, red apple skin, citrus and passion fruit leading the way along with a touch of mineral, mountain herb, orange zest, clove, a hint of apple better and wet chalk…”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 points: “With dynamic and complex expressions like this, it’s a wonder why people started stripping the naturally pink hue that Pinot Gris provides. The pinkish orange wine delivers aromas of strawberry sorbet and rosebuds and then opens onto a palate of light raspberry and watermelon. There is ample tannic tension as well.” Matt Kettmann 12/2019
My Review: Bellini pink, peach 🍑 in color, sweet peach on the nose, a balance of sweet and tart mid palate, with a refreshing finish. September 2020
2016 I. Brand & Family Old Vine Grenache, Besson Vineyard, Santa Clara AVA, 14.6% ABV, $42 (#4*)
2016 Old Vines Grenache.
Made from grapes from 100-year old vines, this wine spent about 20 months in 20% new wood barrels, making this a bigger than average Grenache.
My Review: The 2016 Old Vines Grenache is a beautiful cherry red color with bright fruit on nose and palate. Very balanced and tasty, with lingering flavors on the palate. This was more enjoyable on the second day. Enjoy now or hold for a bit.
2016 I. Brand & Family Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.7% ABV, $42 (#80*)
2016 Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch.
I. Brand & Family makes 2 Cabernet Francs: a Chinon-style one from Paicines, which I presented at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar, and this one – Bates Ranch – a richer, Bordeaux-style wine from the Santa Cruz Mountains. They are both terrific wines, yet I much prefer the style of the Bates Ranch.
From I. Brand via www.unionsquarewines.com: “In our opinion, Bates Ranch is the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The other two, Monte Bello and Mt. Eden, are among the most revered vineyards in California. We first became aware of Bates Ranch through the amazing, and amazingly ageworthy, 70s and 80s bottlings from classic Santa Cruz Mountain produces like Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards and Ahlgren Vineyards. Bates Ranch is located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road. We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet France planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Fermented whole berry with native yeasts and a three week maceration. Aged in a neutral puncheon, a neutral barrel and a once used barrel for 20 months. 94 cases produced.”
My Review: Ian Brand makes his wines lean, lower alcohol and less fruitiness than in most California wines. What this means is you can get to the true expression of the fruit. The 2016 Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch is still a somewhat lean Cabernet Franc. The palate is bold and fruity with bright acidity and cranberry/cherry tartness. Would love to try it with a cheese plate.
You can find I. Brand & Family wines directly from the winery – email them at brandfamilywinery@gmail.com. If you want to taste their wines, they are open Thurs. – Sun. 12pm – 6pm for tastings with limited hosted seatings. Please contact: hello@ibrandwinery.com to make a reservation.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
We stopped in at Joyce Vineyards’ tasting room in December 2019 on a hunt for a Merlot for my next class. I stumbled upon a great deal for their James Joyce Merlot, as well as the 2017 Cabernet. We lucked into some specials for both of these wines. James is winemaker Russell Joyce’s middle name – they produced both a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with their sideways label – the label is literally sideways and a bit of a play on the movie, “Sideways.” Watch them for different Bordeaux blends, depending on yield, especially from their tiny Carmel Valley Estate Vineyard.
These December 2019 prices were bargains for such nice quality wines.
About Joyce Wine Company: “Joyce Wine Company is the result of family interest in Monterey Country’s diverse terroir. With minimalistic cellar practices and on-site production, our goal is to produce wines with balance, finesse and focus while exploring the endless potential of the coastal terroir in Monterey County…Joyce Vineyards began as a chance planting by Francis Joyce in 1989 on a steep hillside in Carmel Valley. Joyce Wine Company now tells the stories of Monterey County’s unique terroir through Francis’ son Russell Joyce, a second generation winemaker who grew up working amongst the vines at the family’s estate. Russell showcases the area’s premier AVAs in a classic and minimal approach to winemaking. He utilizes this approach to create wines of purity and elegance while focusing on the local varietals grown in Monterey County and its surroundings.”
Joyce Wine Company produces about 8,000 cases annually in the same Salinas industrial park as Ian Brand, and sources grapes from some of our best known vineyards across the Central Coast, primarily Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey, and San Benito AVAs.
“San Benito County lies along the San Andreas Fault just beneath the Gabilan Mountain Range; neighboring Monterey County. The calcareous soils combined with warm days and mild nights provide the ideal growing conditions for Bordeaux varietals. The Teague Vineyard uses minimal irrigation, producing grapes with great intensity and concentration.”
The distinctive “Sideways” label for their 2017 James Joyce Cabernet!
Winemaker Notes (website): The 2017 James Joyce Cabernet comes from the Teague Vineyard, planted against the Diablo Mountain Range. The soil is heavy clay and loam. With minimal irrigation, the roots are stressed to dig deep for water. Bordeaux varietals grow well in this climate of warm days and mild nights. For this Cabernet, the “grapes were 100% destemmed and left on the skins with minimal extended maceration 7 days past dryness and full fermentation.” The Cabernet Sauvignon took longer to ferment. “The wine was aged on heavy leas for 16 months and no new French oak was used. Never fined or filtered.” 1000 cases of this wine were produced.
According to www.wine.com, the winemaker described this wine as: “In addition to the blackberry base, minty herbs and leather, this offers a strong woody character and pine needle aromas. The very dry black-currant fruit is awash in flavors of dill, savory black pepper and black olive.”
My Review: “Classic!” my daughter says. This wine is very dark ruby in color, with a mocha-plum nose and a refreshing and smooth plum and cassis on the palate. It is a nice wine one could enjoy every day.
2016 James Joyce Merlot, Central Coast, 13.9% ABV, $25 (181*) 90% Merlot 5% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Cabernet Franc
My DC friends got to enjoy this case of wine I had purchased for my Fall 2020 wine class, indefinitely postponed!
Winemaker’s Notes (condensed from the Tech Sheet): The Merlot grapes were harvested by hand, “…destemmed, and placed in small open top fermenters where they were cold soaked for 4-5 days before fermentation began naturally. Primary fermentation lasted between 14-18 days before the wine was drained and the must gently pressed. The wine was then transferred to 100% neutral French oak barrels where it finished malolactic fermentation. Once this fermentation was completed, a small sulfur addition was made and the wine was left to age sur lie for 16 months before being bottled un-fined and unfiltered.” 850 cases produced.
Tasting Notes from The Cave: “Aromatics: Plum, Black Cherry, Baking Spice. Palate: Lush & Supple, Bright Acidity, Velvety Tannins”
My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color. Cherry and a hint of caramel on the nose. Rich and bright, juicy cherry-berry on the palate, smooth tannins with lingering licorice and a touch of spearmint.
The Joyce Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village is open – make a reservation here.
You can buy Joyce wines from their web site, tasting room, and commercially marketed at www.wine.com and other websites and local markets.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
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