Monthly Archive: August 2021

A Wine from Chile in a Central Coast Wine Blog?

Now what is Sharon doing? OK, let me explain…

In August 2019, my girlfriends and I went wine tasting in Hollister.  I was always exploring and looking for wines to showcase in my DC classes.  Lots of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – until we hit DeRose.  Alphonse DeRose, proprietor and vintner, personally met with us and did our wine tasting.  He had lots of the bigger reds some of us preferred.  He also talked a little about his international partnerships.  I picked up a couple of Alchemy wines from Chile and just rediscovered them in my wine room.  I suggested we do South American wines for one of our August virtual wine classes.  The topic got expanded to wines from Central and South America.

About Carménère: Carménère was originally used as a blending grape (much like Petit Verdot), one of the six original Bordeaux varietals.  However, it suffered the fate of Phylloxera and is rarely seen in France and is mostly planted in Chile today.  It is an offspring of Cabernet Franc and related to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon!  You can read more at these two sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carm%C3%A9n%C3%A8re https://www.winefornormalpeople.com/the-best-grape-story-of-all-time-carmenere/

About Cachapoal Valley: “The northern half of the great Rapel Valley has traditionally been known for its red wines, particularly Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, which account for approximately 80% of the region’s total production. The valley features diverse microclimates that produce a suitable environment for a wide array of wines, ranging from cold-climate varieties in the vineyards at higher altitudes in the foothills of the Andes, to varieties requiring warmer climates in the areas surrounding Lake Rapel along the coastal hills. Here in this valley, the gentle breezes from the Pacific Ocean and the clay soil create synergy to pave the way for one of the leading regions producing Carménère in the country.” https://www.winesofchile.org/en/chile-a-wine-producing-country/valleys-and-guarantee-of-origin/cachapoal/. A good map of Chilean wine growing regions can be found here: https://vineyards.com/wine-map/chile.

2017 Alchemy Carménère, Cachapoal Valley, Chile, 14.1% ABV, $28 (Wine #433*)

About Alchemy and the 2017 Carménère (from the bottle): “Alchemy is a hand made creation of Winemaker Alphonse DeRose and friends.  Inspired by a late night evening of music played by Chilean friends Juan Pablo and Omar, the three concocted a version of only the best grapes being processed 100% by hand.  Each berry is hand removed from every cluster one by one. The result is a robust wine with aromas of dark red fruits, spice and toast. Alchemy is only produced from exceptional year and has limited availability with only 250 cases produced!”  Alphonse DeRose is proprietor and vintner of DeRose Winery in Hollister, CA. You can buy Alchemy wines at DeRose.

Additional Winemaker’s Notes: “Our Carmenere is a 100% handmade wine, fermented with natural yeasts, aged for 12 months in French Oak. Bottled without filtering.” (translated by Google Translate) https://www.movilatienda.cl/en/vinas/alchemy

My Review: Inky purple in the glass.  Fragrant nose of jam and vanilla. Lush, intense dark berries on the palate.  Intense and smooth with a spicy finish.  Love this wine. August 2021

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

“Monterey-South Wine Class” – What does it even mean?

When my DC virtual wine class picked the theme of “Monterey-South,” even I wasn’t sure what that meant.  They further clarified “Monterey County or south of Monterey.”  Perfect!  Right up my alley!  We hunted through our wine room and found a Pierce Ranch Graciano. I’ve presented Pierce Ranch a couple of times here – you can simply search “Pierce Ranch” to find them. The wines selected by my friends came from Monterey County and Paso Robles.

I tried to capture notes from my friends’ presentations for inclusion to show the breadth of wines randomly chosen. One member lamented that he couldn’t really find in Washington DC any of the Rhone Ranger wines.  I told him he would have to come visit here and find them at the wineries!

While this was a unique way to share these Central Coast wines, I didn’t get to taste any except the Graciano. Therefore, you might see them pop up again later in this blog!

2019 Mer Soleil Chardonnay Reserve, Santa Lucia Highlands, 14.5% ABV, $28

My friends presented this Chuck Wagner wine, now made by his son, Charlie. 

Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “A lively flaxen gold, this wine features a harmonious nose that previews the playful balance to come on the palate. Scents of brown spice, toasted almonds, custard and light oak mingle with Meyer lemon zest, honeysuckle and a hint of apricot. Entry is round, as the wine’s fruit and natural acidity build on each other, with echoes of brown spice, citrus and apricot enveloped in a creamy texture. A vibrant finish of lemon/lime showcases the distinctly bright acidity produced from the Monterey coast, leaving an enticing freshness that prepares the palate for another sip.” Wine.com – 91 points.

My Friend’s Review: Viscous in the glass. Nice, not overly oaky.  The oak is there and adds depth to the taste without being detracting. Pear and apple on the nose, peach and a little caramel. Nicely balanced with good acidity. Can’t say the flavor profile is bold but harmonious. August 2021

2017 Chamisal Vineyards Chardonnay, Monterey County, 15.3% ABV, $24

While the Chamisal Vineyard and winery is located in Edna Valley, the fruit for this wine comes from Monterey County! 

Winemaker’s Notes from wines.com : “Toasted oak and crème brûlée. Fruit driven with lemon cream, Fuji apple, ripe pineapple, and baked pears. Rich and creamy with lingering acidity, broad texture and finishing clean.”

The Wine Advocate – 91 points: “The 2017 Chardonnay Monterey County opens with notes of gunflint and toast over baked apples, yellow pears, popcorn and a tropical tinge. The palate is medium-bodied and rounded with an über spicy, fresh fruit profile lifted by mouthwatering acidity, and it finishes long and toasty. This has an appealing yin-yang of savory and bright citrus character.” Erin Brooks, 6/2020

2019 Carol Shelton Coquille Blanc, Paso Robles, 13.5% ABV, $26  40% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, 10% Marsanne

About the 2019 Coquille Blanc: “Exotic nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit.”

My Friend’s Review: Yellow in color.  More minerality on the palate than fruit and a touch acidic on the palate.  Really brings the Paso/Central Coast terroir.  Complex – but not robust. 

2016 Bernardus Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 14.5% ABV, $75/$22 WTSO

About the 2016 Soberanes Pinot Noir: “Santa Lucia Highlands’ two most renowned growers, Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni, have joined forces on an exciting vineyard located just south of the celebrated Garys’ Vineyard in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It is called Soberanes Vineyard. We at Bernardus are honored to be among the few wineries to receive both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this exciting vineyard. We have chosen two Pinot clones: the celebrated Pisoni clone and Dijon clone 667. The 2016 Soberanes displays a beautiful ruby robe and vibrant red fruit aromas. The palate exhibits crisp flavors of ripe red cherry and raspberry with a long finish, promising an excellent future ahead.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Elegantly earthy on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pomegranate, rose petals and dried herbs. The palate is quite tart with flavors of sour Montmorency cherry, and the savory dusting of herbs and baked earth balances the sip.” Matt Kettmann, 12/2018

My Friend’s Review: As Cameron Hughes might say, a “Cabernet lovers Pinot Noir” with big bold flavors and a dark garnet hue. An exceptional Pinot Noir, comparing well to a 2012 Lucienne we all tasted in person together in June.  He got the wine for $22 in a complex WTSO BOGO sale. 

2017 Pierce Ranch Graciano, San Antonio AVA, 14.8% ABV, $30 (#432*)

My friends wanted to know what a Graciano tasted like – I could think of no direct comparison.  I looked up the grape and found this information:  I found this Vinodiversity article: “A naming mess: The original variety is Spanish and is named Graciano in its homeland the Northern Spanish Ebro Valley and Navarra. It is grown in the Jerez region of southern Spain under the name Tintilla de Rota. Graciano is used in France under the name Morrastel. But the Spanish use the variety called Mourvedre (or Mataro in Australia) under the name Morrastel. To add to the confusion the Portuguese variety Tinta Miuda is now known to be to be the same variety. Not to be outdone the Californians grow Graciano under the name Xeres.”

And, if that wasn’t confusing enough, here’s a Matt Kettmann article about mislabeled Graciano vines akin to the Melon de Bourgogne story I recently shared. What a mess. And it doesn’t taste like Mourvèdre at all!

About the 2017 Pierce Graciano: “Perched in a highland valley at the southern tip of Monterey County, our vineyards, with their wide variation in diurnal temperature and rocky soils, provide an excellent setting for the classic grape varieties of Spain and Portugal. A standout among these is certainly Graciano, a native of Spain’s famed Rioja region. Estate-grown in the calcareous rock and shale-rich loam of our Home Ranch Vineyard, the 2017 vintage is a medium-bodied wine with dark, rounded fruit and a solid tannic structure. A limited-run bottling, it was fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 15 months. Blackberry and black cherry combine with hints of shale and thyme.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Pomegranate and cranberry on the nose. Cherry and licorice on the palate with tobacco and vanilla notes. We enjoyed this wine for several days. August 2021

2018 J. Lohr Pure Paso Proprietary Red, Paso Robles, 14.5% ABV, $25 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Petite Sirah, 2% Syrah, 2% Malbec

Winemaker’s Notes: “Savory varietal notes of Cabernet Sauvignon are layered with the dark fruit and spice character of Petite Sirah. The bouquet of cocoa powder, caramel, and anise works in harmony with the black cherry fruit signature of this wine. Bright and focused on the palate with a firm and appetizing finish.” 93 points – Wine Enthusiast Editors’ Choice. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Blue Fox: A Relatively New Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village!

When I was at Galante recently, they recommended Blue Fox Vineyards tasting room.  While I haven’t been there myself, a plank-owner of our COVID Wine Pod, brought me this wine, which we enjoyed greatly.

I don’t know much about Blue Fox. It had a tasting room in Cannery Row, but moved in the past year to Carmel Valley Village into the space Talbot used to own, right behind Cowgirl. Edible Monterey published a beautiful article about owners Edward and Julia Lovaas which you can find here. I can’t wait to taste its interesting and uncommon whites like Arneis and Tocai Friulano plus the big reds I enjoy, including Syrah and Zinfandel.

2013 Blue Fox Cellars Syrah, Seebass Vineyard, Mendocino County, 15.2% ABV, $45 (#430*)

Winemaker Notes: “Our Syrah thrives in the gravely clay soils of Seebass Vineyard.  Aged for 33 months in French Oak Barrels the bold tannins are tamed to create an elegant impeccably balanced wine, expressing flavors of plum, ripe raspberry, earth and spice.  Our Syrah goes well with braised meats, wild game, mushroom risotto and hard aged cheeses.  Cheers!” 

Wine Enthusiast – 83 points: “This wine is rustic in flavor and sturdy in texture, showing cedar and dried cherry notes framed by very firm tannins, full body and a dry mouthfeel.” Jim Gordon 05/2019

My Review: This was a delicious Syrah from Mendocino, worthy of a higher score than it received.  Elegant, balanced, flavorful and ready to drink.  While not as rich as some of my Monterey County warmer climate Syrahs, I am intrigued and want to explore more of their wines! July 2021

You can buy this wine on Blue Fox’s website or visit them in the former Talbot tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Turley Duarte: A Silky Zin from Contra Costa!

It’s been a long while since I’ve presented a Central Coast Turley – and this is a good one.  We got this wine when released for $32 as a Turley Mailing List Member, a bargain for the quality.

I last brought you a Contra Costa County wine – another Turley – back in January: https://decantingmonterey.com/turley-salvador-1896-now-those-are-old-vines/

About Turley: “Turley Wine Cellars was founded in Napa Valley by former emergency room physician Larry Turley in 1993. Under the direction of winemaker Tegan Passalacqua, Turley now makes 50 different wines from over 50 vineyards across California, primarily Zinfandel and Petite Syrah, with many vines dating back to the late 1800s. By farming organically and focusing on old vine vineyards of these varieties, Turley aims to both create and preserve California’s unique winemaking culture.”

2016 Turley Zinfandel Duarte Vineyard, Contra Costa County, 15.6% ABV, $54 (#425*)

About Duarte Vineyard from Turley.com: “This wine is an homage to Joe Duarte, a prominent grape grower in Contra Costa who first introduced Turley to the incredible vineyards of the area. The wine is comprised of fruit from the turn-of-the-century Evangehlo, Mori, and Salvador vineyards, planted between 1890 and 1960.Thanks to the sandy soils and impressive age of the vines, the wine has some of the softest, silkiest tannins we’ve ever seen in a Zinfandel.” 

Wine Advocate – 91 points: “From old vines growing in sand in Contra Costa County, the 2016 Zinfandel Duarte Vineyard offers up aromas of sweet cherries, raspberries, red fruit preserve, bay leaf and licorice. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, generous and fleshy, with rich, youthfully chewy structuring tannins and considerable concentration, depth and matter.” William Kelley 09/2018

My Review: Deep ruby, almost purple in the glass.  Huge palate bursting with blackberry and cassis with a little cocoa.  The cocoa continues into the finish, wrapping up with a touch of tobacco.  This is a fabulous Turley.  I would rate this wine 93 points. July 2021

While this vintage seems unavailable, the 2018 is available at MacArthur’s for $42. Buy and hold a little. And Robert Parker rates the 2019 (not yet released) 94 points! You can also shop online from Turley’s two tasting rooms or join its mailing list here:  https://www.turleywinecellars.com/remotepurchases.  Turley tasting rooms are open! Check it out and make a reservation here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

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