Monthly Archive: December 2023

I Brand & Family: Rare Holiday Vertical Tasting Follows Low Key Autumn Release!

THE STORY

I Brand & Family had a low key Autumn Release in November with pickups in the tasting room and not at a party at the winery.  Ian explained why: harvest and crush were very late this year due to the cool spring and long growing/ripening season. Instead, he hosted a member holiday party in December, where we were able to taste verticals of their Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre wines. What a treat!  There was also great music by El Pecado de Juana, delicious tamales Oaxaquenos by Pedro Martinez & Family and a vegan pozole by Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Cultura.

I decided to enjoy that party and not try to take notes, as we sorted out which, if any, wines we would take home – one of each variety the 2013 La Marea Grenache, the 2017 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, and the 2018 P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon – one of the last with the old label!

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  You can find the latest two !!!! here: A Quick Catch-Up Post on I Brand & Family Wines and I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops! 

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.  These wines were all from that low key Autumn 2023 Release.  As typical with Ian’s wines, they span a number of our local AVAs across 3 counties!  Winery notes come from the winery’s tech sheets (thank you, Will!). Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2022 La Marea Alt-Cut’ Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $30 (#1222)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Honeysuckle on the nose. Bright acidity on the palate – a very tasty wine. November 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#1223)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This wine is bursting with bright honeydew melon and white pepper on the initial nose, evolving into savory notes of saffron and tarragon. The attack on the palate is full of juicy fruit with a prevalent creamy salinity on the back reminiscent of Salazar oysters. Soft acid builds on the front and provides a distinct glycerin mouthfeel that lingers into more of a hum of soft acidity that permeates the palate.”

My Review:  Hay in the glass. Honey on the nose. Baking spices and honey on the palate. Fairly sweet. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)             

Winemaker’s Notes: “Location: DeRose is a 25-year-old own rooted planting of Cabernet Franc. The DeRose Vineyard is part of the old Vaché planting and is the oldest continuously producing commercial vineyard in California. It was subsequently owned by William Palmtag and Almaden Winery, at which time it housed the largest barrel storage room in the world. Soils are a mix of lime and granite. The hill above the Cabernet Franc block is occupied by a lime mine…

“Tasting Notes: The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”

My Review:  Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and black pepper on the palate. Delightful. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon on the nose. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with a slightly tannic finish. This will age into a nice wine. November 2023.

2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review:  Garnet in color. Cinnamon and plum on the nose. Cherry on the palate. Tart palate with a touch of central coast funk. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.9% ABV, $85 (#1227)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite, and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review:  Almost purple in the glass. Black berries on the nose. Delicious berries on the palate. Smooth on the palate. Nice tannins. Maybe a touch vegetal on the finish. Buy this wine – it has great potential. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#1228)              

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Rich dark berries on the nose with a touch of smoke or dirt – in a good way. Very dark palate. IMHO, this is his best Syrah to date – I took one home. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Pierce Ranch Closes Tasting Room Amidst Final Buying Frenzy

THE STORY

When we heard the shocking news that Pierce Ranch Vineyards was closing their tasting room, we immediately made a plan to stop by for one last taste and to pick up our shipment. Things were chaotic on that day, as many members were doing the same thing.  Supply was low and, as we tasted wines and identified what we wanted to buy, the bottles were being bought up by others.  To me, it was a kind of a sad way to experience those wines perhaps for the last time.

We understand that Pierce Ranch Vineyards is going to focus on their vineyards and selling their grapes vs. making wine themselves. There is still wine in the barrels, so I expect some new vintages to appear, probably to be sold on their website.

ABOUT PIERCE RANCH VINEYARDS

“Small-batch, low intervention, estate-grown wines from lower Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley AVA”

“The story behind Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a love story of wine shared amongst friends and our beloved community. It starts in the iconic vineyards of southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation in the year 2000. There is a depth to the terrain that exposes the remarkable quality of the region. A small, family-owned affair, we bring a sentimental spirit to viniculture, to honoring the land, and to cultivating and harvesting the grapes in the late summer and fall. The romanticism of crush and the sweeping vineyards flows into our cozy tasting room. What began as a cottage house built in 1915 has become a space where our community meets in the magical garden and rustic indoor setting to taste the ambrosial wine with a unique focus on Portuguese and Spanish varieties. It’s a love story that never ends, poetry in a bottle that starts with respect of the land and the community by never using herbicides and only using native yeasts with minimal intervention. It is a dedication to the vines and attention to the grapes so they continue to thrive with the years.”

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today.  Because of the chaos in the tasting room, my notes are skimpier than usual. Winery notes come from their website or their bottle labels, unless otherwise noted.

2018 Pierce Ranch Grenache, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#1217)

Winery Notes: From the label: “Our 2018 Grenache, the first varietal bottling for us in quite a while, was grown in the granite and shale soils of an upper section of our Western Addition Vineyard. A delicious and nuanced take on the variety, it was fermented in a single small lot using only native yeasts and was then aged in primarily neutral oak for fourteen months. Only 90 cases were produced.”

“Varietal bottling with its characteristic medium-bodied red fruit and focused earthiness.”

My Review: Cranberry in the glass. Red plum on the nose. Smooth, slightly sweet, light cherry palate. November 2023

NV Pierce Ranch Tourbillon, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1218) Grenache, Graciano, etc.

Winery Notes: “Late in the summer in the San Antonio Valley, about midway through the grape harvest, it’s not uncommon to see pale grey dust devils gather themselves and then quickly tower up over the fields and pastureland like slender pillars of cloud. Something like the local geniuses of the region, they serve as the namesake, once or twice linguistically removed, for our Tourbillon.

“While the latest release is an entirely different blend from its predecessor, it maintains a similar stylistic approach, being a well-rounded, easygoing wine that’s well suited for most foods or enjoyed alone. Medium-bodied, and with notes of black cherry coulis and florality on the nose and palate, it presents a surprisingly savory finish with hints of dried herbs, earthy woodsmoke and a touch of dusty minerality.”

My Review:  Translucent garnet in color. Light palate with an acidic, tannic finish. November 2023

2017 Pierce Ranch Maçon, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#656) Petit Verdot, Graciano, Tempranillo

Winery Notes: “Something of an Ibérique Supérieur, our new Maçon brings together Tempranillo, Graciano and Petit Verdot to form a slightly idiosyncratic blend of Spanish and French varieties. Combining a hint of Iberian aromatics with the earthy, mineral palate reminiscent of a Bordeaux, this is a wine that approaches Old World character while also indulging a touch of experimentation. A floral nose balances itself against a darker midpalate and a solid tannic structure, as notes of violets and dried herbs give way to an underlying earthiness and a savory, vaguely smoky finish.”

My Review: Ruby in color. A touch of barnyard on the nose and the palate. November 2023

2019 Pierce Ranch Mal/Zin, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#658) 26% Malbec, 48%  Zinfandel, 26% Alicante Bouschet

Winery Notes: I took these notes from the label, but I couldn’t read the whole thing. “Our Mal/Zin is a somewhat idiosyncratic blend of Malbec, Zinfandel, and Alicante Bouschet. It offers up a mix of sumptuous black fruit and …, leavened by a touch of Old World earth and ….  Grown in various blocks in our Y Ranch and Panhandle Vineyards, it was fermented in several small lots with only native yeasts, and then was aged in a combined … of new and neutral oak. Only 175 cases were produced.

My Review: Plum and blackberry on the nose. Medium palate of delicious blackberries. Tasty. November 2023

2017 Pierce Ranch Petit Verdot, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $32 (#1219)

Winery Notes: “With its high elevation, rocky soils, and wide variation in diurnal temperature, the recently declared San Antonio Valley appellation is an area that is proving to be well suited to a number of Bordeaux varieties. Grown in our Western Addition Vineyard in a mix of decomposed granite, broken shale, and sand, the 2016 Petit Verdot is a robust yet nuanced wine with a rich, savory palate and moderate tannins. Produced on a limited scale, it was fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 18 months. Notes of blackberry, cassis, and black cherry meet with hints of wood spice, and thyme along with a mineral, earthy undercurrent.”

My Review:  Ruby in color. Dark berries and plum on the nose. Vegetal notes wrapped in fruit on the palate. November 2023

2019 Pierce Ranch Graciano, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $32 (#1220)

Winery Notes: “Traditionally used as a blending grape in the Tempranillo-based wines of the Rioja, Graciano has been one of our most cherished varieties, grown in the clay and calcareous rock of our Home Ranch Vineyard. The 2019 vintage is a slightly richer presentation of the variety, but nicely balanced on the palate with a decent weight and texture along with a lengthy finish. A nose full of red and black cherry, and blackberry, with a hint of candied fruit and fresh, herbal notes, is followed by a complex palate of blackberry, dried fruit, candied orange peel, thyme, and a characteristic minerality on the finish, with notes of shale and bramble, and the very subtle hints of vanilla and baking spice.”

My Review: The one, little sip we had was quite good. November 2023

2018 Pierce Ranch Olonde, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, $32 (#1221)

Winery Notes: “Bordeaux style blend composed of Cab. Sauv., Petit Verdot, and Malbec.”

My Review:  Garnet. Slightly earthy/ash yet pleasant nose, with a tasty palate. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Pierce Ranch tasting room closed in November, but you can buy their wines on their website here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


2018 GEORIS MERLOT MADE OUR CORKSCREW CAFE LUNCH PERFECT!

Today I am bringing you the 2018 Georis Merlot which made our Corkscrew Café lunch perfect!

THE STORY

With our daughter in town for a long Thanksgiving visit, we needed one last special event before we put her on a plane back home. We debated going to a winery when we really wanted lunch with a good glass of wine.  We chose to dine at Corkscrew Café and enjoy a nice bottle of 2018 Georis Merlot! I have to say our daughter was dubious about having a Merlot, as it is not a household regular.  But I assured her that, if this 2018 were nearly as good as the 2017, she would enjoy it – and she did. 

I also want to give a shout ouot to the wait staff at Corkscrew who modified our meals to our every wish. Many thanks! It was much appreciated!

I previously wrote about Georis Winery here: Georis Winery: Exceptional Wines from Cachagua and Beyond!

ABOUT GEORIS

“Walter Georis was born of a Belgian father and a German mother who immigrated to the US from Belgium in 1956 when Walter was eleven years old.

 “After having spent his teen years in Southern California, Walter decided to move north to Carmel where he pursued a career in fine arts.

“Soon after arriving in Carmel, Walter designed a family restaurant, Casanova that would become internationally renowned for its cuisine and style, and its wine cellar.

​“Remembering his childhood and the pleasures of country life on the family farms in Europe, Walter decided to combine his love of fine wines with the challenges and rewards of growing grapes and producing first class wines. In 1981, after consulting with French experts on soil and wine making, he bought a ranch in Carmel Valley and soon planted the grapes that would produce the first crop of Georis wines…”

You can read more about Georis here.

THE WINE

I have just one wine to present to you today from Georis. I couldn’t readily find any winery notes on this new vintage. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2018 Georis Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#1216)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries and forest floor on the nose. Rich on the palate with dark berries, finishing with tannin and acidic notes on the finish. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

“Our tasting room is located at 1 Pilot Rd. Carmel Valley California. The adobe style tasting room is reminiscent of early California Mission architecture. With its tall ceilings, large fireplace, hand hewed oversized beams supporting an impressive roof finished with antique handmade Spanish tiles. Our gardens are lush with mature landscaping and a small symbolic decorative vineyard planted to Petrus Clone. While tasting our fine wines you will be enjoying the stylish interior or you can walk through our gardens and find your favorite table. Our staff is well versed in providing you information regarding our wine making philosophy as well providing you with more in-depth details regarding our world class wines.

“We welcome you and your friends to join us at our tasting room Wednesday – Monday from 12:00 – 6:00 pm with the exception of the weather and holidays. You can reach us by phone at (831) 659-1080. We greatly appreciate a call if will be joining us with a large group, we want your experience to be delightful while drinking some of California’s best…”

I also love that you can order “to go” from Corkscrew Café while tasting at Georis!

© Decanting Monterey 2023 

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts! 


Bernardus Delights Its Members with an Over-the-Top Marinus Dinner!

THE STORY

In November, we attended our third over-the-top Marinus dinner at the Bernardus Winery Tasting Room. I have to say, this is our favorite local event of the year and, I don’t know how, but it just keeps getting more impressive. The 2023 Marinus dinner was an elegant affair. The tables were decorated so beautifully and the service was impeccable. The wines and the food were exquisite, all the way down to the imported flavored French butters!  The Marinus blends are aging nicely and the multi-course food pairings created by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel were sumptuous. You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.

I will confess that I bugged Heather relentlessly about the date for this event, as I knew it was coming and we had been traveling. I for sure didn’t want to miss this event and last year, we got the last 4 seats! Thanks for putting up with me, Heather! When is it next year? 😊

With the recent retirement of winemaker Dean DeKorth, we were hosted by his replacement, Jim McCabe.  We had met him at the previous Marinus dinner and he hosted the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod at the winery this past summer. Jim was fully in his element on this night, informing us about the wines and happenings at the winery. His presence and conversations with the many attendees were so valuable and appreciated.

As if we didn’t already feel special enough, our meal began with the final 3 bottles of the 1993 Marinus – the year of their first bottling of this red blend on its 30th Anniversary. Making a fine Bordeaux wine in Carmel Valley was the vision and dream of founder Ben Pon, who passed away in 2019. And I must say that the 1993 was drinking fine, giving credence and confidence in the longevity of later vintages. Ben Pon’s vision has indeed been realized!

THE WINEMAKER’S STORY

Jim McCabe did not start out wanting to be a winemaker.  Originally from Massachusetts, he got into graduate school in Sonoma to pursue a Masters in Comparative Literature. He took a job at Bernardus while finishing his thesis.

He was impressed by the 2006 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. He found it bigger, fuller, and more enjoyable than the jug wines which were so popular back then.  😊 As a result, he started to take winemaking more seriously. Dean DeKorth, his boss and mentor, taught him much about wine appreciation and winemaking.

THE WINERY

To kick off our event, winemaker Jim McCabe addressed the group with a brief history of the Bernardus Winery and the Marinus vineyard. Motor sport enthusiast and golfer Ben Pon moved here in 1989-1990. He noticed Durney was making intense Cabernets in Carmel Valley/Cachagua and he wanted to see what the area could be for wines. He had a vision to create a small pocket of Bordeaux in Carmel Valley. He wanted to explore what varieties would do well there. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to see what they could do, then added Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. You can read more about the founding and history of Bernardus Winery here.

Over the course of the evening, Jim shared a few tidbits about the winery and winemaking:

  • Bernardus hand harvests its grapes. Jim shared that there is a big difference in quality between machine and hand picking. Machines enter into the mix “Matters Other than Grapes” – MOG.
  • Making Marinus wine is like “squidding.” Seriously, Jim did say that…
  • One of their challenges is how to get grape growing and harvesting right in Cachagua, with its big diurnal shift. Cabernet Sauvignon needs sustained heat. So, they have to pick late.
  • As of the dinner on November 9th, they had still not harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon!  Due to the rains, followed by a cool spring/summer without wildfires, the region enjoyed one of its best and longest growing seasons.
  • The Marinus Vineyard is also a great place for Merlot. They have put a higher percentage of Merlot in the blend over the years. They reevaluate the percentages of the various grape varieties every year to develop their strategy for each vintage’s blend.
  • Marinus is a limited production red blend. They try to get the balance of varietals to show the best bottle – “the best we can” – vs having it taste the same every year. The blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant varietal, changes from year to year. The Signature Marinus is the best of the best. It can be a different blend than the Marinus in a given year.
  • They prefer French barrels and are able to buy 500 new barrels per year. Some old ones get purchased by a local brewery!

THE WINES

Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. I quickly jotted down the blends at a subsequent visit to the tasting room, so I may not have them exactly right. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889) 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!” Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! Awarded TOP RED WINE!

My Review: This was the wine we enjoyed as we walked in the door. I don’t have new notes, so am providing mine from July, which was a blind tasting: Dark berry, cherry and caramel notes with at first hints of barnyard and hay on the nose. Earthy palate of dark fruits with a touch of smoke on the finish. Much more of a big cab style wine. We like it. July 2023

1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)

Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)

My Review: This wine was perfectly paired with the black cod. Dark ruby in color. Spicy, black pepper on the nose. So smooth and rich, elegant. If we were tasting bling, no one would guess it was 30 years old. It’s similar to one of those fine, aged Bordeaux wines we open at home sometimes. November 2023

2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $65 (#39) 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

My Review: Served with the duck confit and smoked lentils. Inky/dark garnet in the glass. Extraction is great says Jim. Slightly earthy nose. Palate is still rich but leaner. Still smooth.  We’ve had this vintage many times over the years and it has been interesting to watch its progression.  Several years ago, we thought it might be past its prime, but it might have been the bottle in the tasting room.  Since that time, as on this night, it has been drinking well. Hang in there, 2010! November 2023

2013 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#157) 35% Caberbet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2013 Marinus is a very deep crimson. On the nose we find dried cranberry aromas accented by subtle spice notes. The palate is intensely flavored with impressions of bright red cherry and plum. The finish shows excellent tannic structure promising a long life for this vintage of Marinus, much like that of a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Served with the pork tenderloin. This is the vintage that caused me to fall in love with Marinus and become a club member. Inky in the glass. Smooth nose of cedar and velvety fruit. Dark berries on the palate. Blackberry and cherry on the finish. Still a favorite. November 2023.

2017 Bernardus Signature Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $125  (#891)

Winery Notes: This was the first tasting of this vintage – opened for us on this special night.  No notes are available yet on their website.

My Review: Dark in the glass. Umami bouquet – go figure. Fresh on the palate. Bright black and red berries on the palate with a licorice finish. A lovely finish. I think it is still young, but the winery thinks it is ready to drink. Showing well and perfectly paired with the venison medallion – a good choice. November 2023.

2014 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290) 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2014 Marinus is very deeply-colored. The aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. The mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Tobacco on the nose. Deep intense berries on the palate with a minty finish. -goes with the earthiness of the raclette. Lovely. November 2023

2019 Bernardus Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 9.0% ABV, valued at $50, not for sale (#1215)             

Winery Notes: Inspired by Sauternes. Can only make this when the conditions are right. Has to be a humid, wet year. Bernardus has only made this 3 times: 2011, 2012, 2019. Can open it and keep it open.

My Review: Honey on the nose. Viscous, with a nice balance between the sweet and orange blossom and a touch of tartness. I enjoyed this wine – a perfect pairing with our orange almond cake. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Bernardus Tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every afternoon except Monday, with slightly different hours each day. Reservations are recommended but not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here, via email tastingroom@bernardus.com, or by calling them at 831-298-8021

 © Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


DENO Wine Paso Rouge: A Splash of Red from the Eastside!

THE STORY

This is another Monday Catch-Up post about another Paso discovery: DENO Wine Paso Rouge! The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod enjoyed this wine at the home of our partners, who are big Paso Robles fans. 

ABOUT DENO Wines:

HISTORY

 “Alto Pomar Vineyard (DENO’s estate vines) was initially planted in 1993, as the dream of Dennis Sharpe, a native Southern Californian.  As an agriculture student in both High School and College, Dennis made frequent trips to Cal Poly University in San Luis Obispo for agricultural events.  There were few wineries at that time on the Central Coast but grape growing had been part of the local farming scene for decades.   Dennis noticed the limestone and fossilized sea shells in many areas of the county.  After developing a taste for fine wine in the early 1970’s the thoughts of those white rock soils brought an appreciation for what these soils could achieve in growing premium grapes.

“In 1992 Dennis began a search for country home in San Luis Obispo County.  After a few months an 8 acre parcel in the hills east of Templeton was found.  This land was part of the Bowers Orchard Tract which included 600 acres of Almond trees planted in 1916.  The land had been divided into parcels many years before.  This property would become Alto Pomar Vineyard.

“Over the years Alto Pomar grew little-by-little.  What started as a “hobby” vineyard grew to about 3 acres of primarily rhone type grapes.  Another 11 acres of land was purchased in the middle 90’s. The the decision to make wine from the estate fruit was made in 2008. Dennis has managed the vineyard and worked with Eric Ogorsolka, owner of Zenaida Cellars, to make DENO Wines through 2017. Since 2018 DENO wines have been made at ONX Winery with the Custom Crush Team.

VINEYARDS

“DENO wines are made from fruit from our estate, Alto Pomar Vineyard, and other local vineyards in the Paso Robles area. The objective is to turn the best fruit into exceptional wines.

“Alto Pomar is located in the eastside Templeton Hills at almost 1400 feet in elevation and takes advantage of the winds and temperature swings of the Templeton Gap. The varying soils are primarily calcareous marls and shales with mixed clays and gravel. Farming the steep ridges of Alto Pomar is a challenge. Water is limited and the vines naturally produce extremely low yields (2 tons/acre) of intense and well-balanced fruit.

“The grapes from Alto Pomar have a common thread of spice, brightness and balanced maturity. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and a few scattered other varieties make up the small (3 acre) vineyard.

“The vineyard is farmed in both trellis and head-trained fashion. The oldest vines are now over 25 years of age…”

​WINEMAKING

“Harvest timing is always a challenge and the window of harvest for ideal balance is very short. Grapes are harvested when the acid and maturity appear to be in the best harmony. This results in wines of balance and ripe flavors.

“Fruit is harvested as early in the morning as possible to maintain a cool initial soak before fermentation. Grapes are delivered to the winery and destemmed leaving whole berries in the fermentation bins. Dry ice is added when the cold soak is desired for a longer period. Typically, fermentation starts within three days and the wines are pressed after approximately two to four weeks, depending on the fruit and the vintage.

“Minimal manipulation of the wine is performed with constant monitoring to bring the wine to a finely finished product. Bottling is usually done unfiltered.

“DENO wine typically benefits from decanting in its early years. The wine is balanced with natural acidity and the grapes’ own fruitful maturity.”

THE WINE

I have just one wine to present to you today from DENO Wine. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2018 DENO Wine Paso Rouge, Alto Pomar Vineyard, El Pomar District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.4% ABV, $40 (#1214) 65% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre

Winery Notes: “Floral aromas with perfume of bright red berries. Red berry/Raspberry flavors with a nice elegant feel.  Balanced and softly structured.  Opens nicely in the decanter.”

My Review: Translucent ruby in the glass. Raspberry jam and leather on the nose. Juicy palate of raspberry jam – 💯 raspberry. Went well with espresso chocolate. October 2023

TASTING ROOM

According to its Facebook page, DENO Wine might have a shared tasting room with Clavo Cellars at 315 S. Main Street in Templeton.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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A Quick Catch-Up Post on I Brand & Family Wines

THE STORY

Since the I Brand & Family Autumn 2023 Releases have recently become available, there is no time better than now to issue this quick catch-up post. I’ve been collecting these reviews of I Brand & Family wines we have enjoyed at home over this past year. If only I had created Catch-Up Mondays earlier in the year!

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  You can find the latest one here: I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops! 

THE WINES – A QUICK CATCH-UP POST

I have 5 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family and P’tit Paysan.  These wines were all from our home cellar and were tasted throughout 2023. 3 of these are new writeups, plus a couple we’ve had before.  The wines in today’s post span a number of our local AVAs across 2 counties.  This demonstrates great breadth in their continual efforts to uncover and highlight the region’s best grapes. Winery notes come from their newsletters or websites as noted. However, I seem to have a gap in my collection of tasting notes.  Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2020 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $30 (#1211)            

Winemaker’s Notes: N/A

My Review: Beautiful golden in the glass. Honeydew and pear on the nose. Full palate of round honeydew notes on the mid palate surrounded by a slightly bitter lemon twist.  Robust yet delicate.  I liked this wine. July 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, (#1212)

Winemaker’s Notes found on K&L Wine Merchants: “When Honoré Escolle purchased a summer property for his family in 1878, he established one of the most desirable benches in Monterey County. Over 130 years later, three agricultural families developed the land with the intention of carrying on the propertie’s rich tradition through quality driven vinicultural practices. The Caraccioli, Nunes and Hibino families focus on delivering a distinctive expression of northern Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.”

My Review:  Beautiful dusty golden in the glass. Tropical notes of white peach, lychee and pineapple on the nose. Balanced acidity and a palate of juicy, tropical flavors. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve had lately. I can always count on Ian’s Escolle Chardonnay to be nothing short of exceptional. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, $30 (#741)        

Winemaker’s Notes: N/A

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022 Lovely light orange in the glass like an orange lollipop. Nose of citrus blossom and yellow peach. Balanced acidity with peach, melon and tart notes amplified by a lingering finish. Lovely wine for a nice May afternoon patio tasting. May 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Old Vine Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, $43 (#1213)

Winemaker’s Notes from www.wine.com: “Planted in the late 1800’s this fruit is among some of the best Mouvedre plantings on the continent. This wine tantalizes the palate. Dark brambly fruits and rose petals open the nose. Black pepper and lush fruits balance subtle savory notes. Zesty tannins and light acidity on the finish.”

My Review: Pale purple in color.  Plum, blackberry and eucalyptus on the nose. Thin cherry mid-palate, followed by a robust punch of tannic and slightly acidic flavors of cherry, blackberry, tobacco and pencil lead on the finish. April 2023

2014 P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#788)

Wine Enthusiast – 89 points: “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins. ” — Matt Kettmann June 2018

My Review:  Inky purple in the glass. Red raspberry, plum and a touch of brown sugar on the nose. Cassis and dark berries on the palate. A slight tartness balances the jamminess of the fruit. We like this wine. July 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Samuel Louis Smith: Crafting Cool Climate Elegance in a Bottle

Today let’s talk about how Samuel Louis Smith crafts cool climate elegance in a bottle.

THE STORY

In August, we made a trip to K&L Wine Merchants after landing at SFO. I typically head straight to the Syrahs to see which Central Coast wines they have in stock.  Not seeing anything that struck my fancy, I asked at the counter if they had a recommendation.  “Samuel Louis Smith” was the answer.  Then we checked our order and saw we had already selected it for purchase!

I previously introduced Samuel Louis Smith and his 2018 Syrah here: “Samuel Louis Smith: “Unmanipulated Elegance” in Limited Production Wines”. Let’s update that with the latest information from his website!

ABOUT SAMUEL LOUIS SMITH from his website:

Micro-négoce

“Samuel Louis Smith is a micro-négociant based in Salinas, CA, focused on some of the coolest sites of the Central Coast. Mountainous terroir, organic viticulture, and minimal intervention in the cellar are tenets of the brand. SLS presents a compelling cross-section of the Central Coast, focusing on chardonnay, gamay noir, pinot noir, and cool-climate syrah from Santa Barbara, Monterey, and Santa Cruz. The brand embodies a neoclassical style where lower alcohol and higher acidity, stem inclusion in the reds, and native fermentations with little to no additions create wines of place and purity, aroma and structure.

“Over the course of his career, Sam has worked in Santa Barbara (Brander, Tres Hermanas, Margerum), Australia (Mitchelton), the Willamette Valley (Tendril), the Northern Rhône (Villard), and most recently in Champagne (Nowack & Sélèque). He is currently head winemaker of Morgan Winery, a pioneer of organic viticulture in the Santa Lucia Highlands. The future vision of SLS is a program focused on estate grown grapes. For now, Sam is dedicated to sourcing fruit from the most distinctive sustainably and organically farmed vineyards, highlighting the best of the Central Coast’s mountainous sites. SLS produces about 1,000 cases annually.

Background

“Sam studied Economics, French, and Spanish at UC Santa Barbara. A nagging desire for wine knowledge and proximity to good surf led Sam to Bordeaux- the perfect place to spend a semester abroad. Coinciding with the iconic vintage of 2009, it opened his eyes to the world of haute cuisine and fine wine. Though somewhat reticent and cold, Sam’s Bordelaise host family ate and drank quite well; their pairing of confit de canard with ’89 Margaux on a cold Sunday afternoon in November still serves as an epiphanous moment for him.

“Wine and everything it embodies are still the most cerebral and inspiring experience for Sam. Making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley and cool-climate syrah in the Northern Rhône, and cutting his teeth as assistant winemaker for Margerum Wine Company gave him the opportunities to find where his palate and California’s cool, mountainous Central Coast terroir converge…”

THE WINE

I have just one wine to present to you today from Samuel Louis Smith. Winery notes come from his website and from K&L Wine Merchants. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2021 Samuel Louis Smith Sandstone Terrace Syrah, Nelson & Gali Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#1210)

Winery Notes: I’ve included most of his write-up about this wine, as it describes in some detail some of our local vineyards.

Terroir

“Sandstone Terrace is a blend of primarily SCM cool-climate syrah sites with the common thread of sandstone-derived soils. In most vintages, it embodies the sexy, spicy, and floral side of the varietal.

“Nelson Vineyard (44%) is located in the Summit district of the SCM. The property was planted to chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah in ‘99 after spending 30 years as a Christmas tree farm best known for silvertip firs, a variety that thrives at higher elevations. At 1700 ft, the vines growing in sandy loam and chunky sandstone are surrounded by redwoods and firs. Organically farmed.

“Gali Vineyard (42%) is located in the Corralitos district of the southern SCM. At the low elevation of 400 ft and approximately six miles from the ocean, this is one of the coldest sites in our lineup. Soils are clay loam weathered from sandstone and shale, formed on ancient submarine terraces. In conversion to organics.

“Tondré Vineyard (14%) was planted in ‘97 in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands, in granitic loam and extremely cool climate thanks to nearby Monterey Bay’s contribution of persistent morning fog and windy, sunny afternoons.

Winery Tasting Notes:

“Dark purple. Black plum, brambleberry, white pepper, and dried violets are followed by black fruits, cured and smoked meats, and savory spices on the palate. Medium bodied with elegant chalky tannins.”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “Fresh and snappy aromas of boysenberry sorbet and rose petals are also Pinot Noir-like on the nose of this Syrah. The palate is extremely floral, like sipping from a punch of rose petal and violet, with a backdrop of black raspberry and white pepper. Drink now–2038.” Matt Kettmann August 2020

My Review: Dark in the glass. Anise and blackberry on the nose. A sophisticated, mid-weight palate of herbs, forest floor, crushed berries, baking spices and rocks. Hints of sour cherries on the woody finish. September 2023

WHERE TO FIND

Although Samuel Louis Smith doesn’t have a tasting room, you can use this link on their website to find their wines: https://samuellouiswines.com/wine/.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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