Monthly Archive: November 2020

DeRose: Dry-Farmed Vineyards in the Cienega Valley

DeRose was our third stop on my girlfriend outing to Hollister in August 2019, when we were hosted by Alphonse DeRose, winemaker!  Our tasting was inside the actual winery where we got to talk to actual winemakers!

Both DeRose and Eden Rift (Pietra Santa on this map) straddle the San Andreas Fault.

The Cienega Valley AVA (established 1982) is located in western San Benito County, California, United States. It is part of the larger Central Coast AVA. “The valley was once a major source of wine grapes for Almaden Vineyards before it was acquired by Constellation Brands in 1987. Approximately 1,100 feet (340 m) above sea level, the valley floor is divided by the San Andreas fault. Soil on the east side of the fault is predominantly granite and sandstone, whereas soils on the west side of the fault are predominantly granite and limestone.”  http://wine.appellationamerica.com/wine-region/Cienega-Valley.html

About DeRose www.DeRosewine.com :  “DeRose Vineyards was established on land with wine history dating back to the 1850s when Theophile Vaché produced the estate’s first vintages. The winery changed hands many times over the years and was eventually purchased by the DeRose, Cedolini and Miller families in 1988. Before long, Winemaker Pat DeRose rescued several acres of abandoned vines from the clenches of tall weeds and thistles, including two acres planted before 1900 that were grafted to Syrah in 1994.” You will also see links to their current wines and their imported wines on this page. 

2015 DeRose Syrah Dryfarmed Old Vines, Cienega Valley AVA, 15.5% ABV, $37 (#73*)

The 2015 DeRose Syrah is a huge wine worthy of decanting – full of great berry flavors.

About DeRose Syrah https://derosewine.com/fact_sheets/CV_Syrah_FS.pdf:

“The ancient Syrah vines are dry-farmed in deep sandy-loam soils on terraced hillsides…On average, they produce less than one ton per acre, and with only two planted acres, we produce about 100 cases per year, making the DeRose Syrah one of our most exclusive wines. Our Syrah underwent fermentation using native yeasts, meaning only the naturally occurring yeasts found in the winery actually fermented this wine. In addition, the Syrah underwent malolactic fermentation without using a culture. The wine is stored 100% in French oak barrels, without any pumping used to transfer our wines. The wine is then bottled un-fined and un-filtered to preserve all its flavors and mouth feel.”  

“This big, bold Syrah is full of blueberry fruit, smoked bacon and a touch of toasted oak. Robust ripe tannins make this wine suitable for heavier dishes like grilled meats, game, strong cheeses and salamis. Our Syrah has more structure and tannins than many other Syrahs on the market due to the cool climate of the Cienega Valley. This makes this wine suitable for aging an additional 5-6 years. We recommend decanting this wine prior to consumption.”

My Review: We ended up double decanting this wine – overall flavor and smell was originally a bit off for me.  Dense purple in color. Upon opening, oak, alcohol and sulphur on the nose (sulphur dissipated with time). Huge blueberry, blackberry on the palate, with cherry, dark fruits and smokiness on the finish – a very big wine.”

You can buy their wines from their webpage above!

Eden Rift: East of Eden, Straddling the San Andreas Fault

Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited.  Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays. 

When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth.  Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t.  They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!

About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California.  Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA.  The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils.  Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860.  Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016.  Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”

From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay.  A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”

I am reviewing 4 Eden Rift wines in this blog post.

2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com

wine.com rated the 2018 rosé 92 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months.  Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”

wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019

My Review: Light pink in the glass.  Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose.  Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish.  I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)

IMHO, Chardonnay is truly the strong suit of Eden Rift.

Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”

Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.”  92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019

My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose.  Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)

wine.com rated the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir 95 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.”  91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass.  Dark berry notes on the nose.  Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness.  Well balanced.   A tasty wine. October 2020

2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)

The 2017 Zinfandel was very berry and enjoyable for what it is.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color.  Berry jam on the nose.  Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish.  We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate.  Still drinking well a week later.  I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons.  I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort.  October 2020

Their tasting room is open by appointment.  You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Donati Family Vineyard: “…good grapes make great wine”!

I had never heard of Donati until I started researching Paicines AVA wines. We visited their tasting room in Templeton (Paso Robles) (there really aren’t any tasting rooms in Paicines itself, just vineyards) to find a wine for my Paicines AVA wine class. We found a respectable, tasty Claret (Bordeaux blend) which was quite well received.  I also got to taste their Family Reserves, which are mighty fine.  And we discovered they bottle some of their wines in jugs, labeled “Naughty Donati.” Jut some fun facts for you. 

This information was distilled previously from the Donati Family Vineyard website:  Ron Donati grew up in South San Francisco, the son of a first generation Italian-American family. One of his fondest memories was the sights and smells of his grandfather making wine in his basement. Ron, a successful businessman, first bought the vineyard for his son Matt to grow high quality, unique grapes for purchase by others. Soon, after rave reviews of the fruit, he got to thinking…good grapes make great wine. So, he stopped selling and started making own wine. Donati Family Vineyard makes approachable everyday wines, but also family-named reserves for a special occasion. 

Also taken earlier from their website: “The Donati Family Estate Vineyard site enjoys a variety of soils from limestone to decomposed granite to clay loam, and access to the cooling ocean breezes of the Monterey Bay. Like much of southern Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey counties, Paicines has long warm days followed by cool nights. “It’s a lot cooler than people think it would be here”, says Matt. “On the UC Davis scale of growing areas and heat where Region I is the coolest and V the warmest, Paicines is a cool Region II.” The vineyard is planted to various select clones of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc and Petit Verdot. Vine selections are carefully screened for viral diseases prior to planting, ensuring that the future of the vineyard is secure, and that vine health and fruit integrity remain intact from planting through harvest.” Their red wines are matured in both French and American oak for 12-18 months. 

I am presenting 3 of their Family Reserves in today’s blog: 2014 Malbec, 2014 Merlot, and the 2015 GSM.

2014 Donati Malbec Family Reserve, Paicines, 13.5% ABV, $45 (12*) 90% Malbec, 10% Merlot

I don’t find a lot of Central Coast Malbecs – this was a big, delicious one.

Wine Enthusiast Review: “Pure blackberry aromas are lifted by dark chocolate and mint on the nose of this reserve bottling from a historic wine-growing region south of Hollister. There’s a sweet touch at first to the palate, but then gravelly tannins and zesty acidity delivers flavors of black plum, elderberry jam and tarragon. It is still quite young, and will improve in the cellar.” 92 points, Matt Kettmann 05/2018 

We tasted this wine back at the beginning of the pandemic in late March, before I was writing reviews. If you like a delicious, big Malbec, try this one out – it disappeared rather quickly in my house. 141 cases of this Malbec were produced.

2014 Donati Merlot Family Reserve, Paicines, 14.7% ABV, $45 (115*)

This was a huge wine – highly recommend decanting!

Merlot was the theme for one of our virtual wine tastings in August.  I had two Merlots parked in DC for my next in-person wine class, which was not meant to be.  What else did I have in my wine room?  The 2014 Donati Merlot Family Reserve! 

nicewines.com Review: “Pure blackberry aromas are lifted by dark chocolate and mint on the nose of this reserve bottling from a historic wine-growing region south of Hollister. There’s a sweet touch at first to the palate, but then gravelly tannins and zesty acidity delivers flavors of black plum, elderberry jam and tarragon. It is still quite young, and will improve in the cellar.”

My Review:  A dark red, dense-looking wine.  Rich and juicy on the palate, brimming with cherry and cedar notes. A touch of leather and tartness on the finish.  Definitely decant or let this wine open up to get the full flavors.  In our wine class this week, we all shared the same sentiment:  decant your Merlots! August 2020

2015 Donati GSM Family Reserve, Paicines AVA, 13.9% ABV, $45 (#74*) 54% Syrah, 42% Grenache, 4% Mourvèdre

A spicy blend with some of the tannic finish one might expect from a GSM.

Wine Enthusiast Review: “This blend…offers oregano, peppercorns and salted beef against a plummy backdrop on the nose. The mouthfeel is full and chalky, delivering flavors of roasted black plum and dried herbs.” 90 points, Matt Kettmann, 12/2018

My Review: Pleasant nose of red fruit.  Spicy cinnamon, blackberry and cherry with some tobacco on the palate – smooth but a bit of acidity and tannic harshness on the finish.    June 2020

Check out their current releases here.  They have 50% off FedEx shipping (as of 10/28/2020) (some exclusions apply).  Make a reservation to taste their wines in Templeton here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Puma Road: Paicines Done Big!

In March 2019, our daughter came to visit us from NYC.  The girl loves a road trip and I needed to do “research” for one of my wine classes.  We drove a long way down the beautiful Salinas Valley on Highway 101 to Soledad and worked our way back up the valley and stopped at half a dozen tasting rooms along the way.  One of the last wineries we stopped at was Puma Road.  This place was jumping with a party atmosphere and big bold reds just the way I like them.

The River Road Tasting Room – a happening place!

From Puma Road’s About Us page: “The Franscioni family has worked the Salinas Valley soil for four generations. In the early 1890s, Silvio Franscioni Sr. settled a ranch outside of Gonzales with his beloved wife Maria and their children. What began as a dairy operation developed into a row crop farm. The owner of Puma Road winery, Ray Franscioni–Silvio’s grandson, is keeping the farming tradition vibrant and alive. His business ambitions reached beyond raising dairy cows and farming lettuce. While growing 6,000 acres of row crops, he decided to embark on a vineyard operation in the early 1990s.

“For more than 20 years, Franscioni has been a prominent grape-grower in the Monterey County region. His operation has evolved into growing 2,000 acres of vines while continuing the family row crop business. About half of the grape yield is grown in the Santa Lucia Highlands; the other portion grows in the Paicines AVA.

“About a decade after becoming grape growers, the Franscioni’s decided to craft wine themselves. The family produced their first vintage in 2003 under the label RF Wines. More than a decade later, Puma Road Winery now produces 4,500 cases per year. They proudly continue to grow 15 varietals. The winery is a thriving, local-based establishment that strongly reflects the Santa Lucia Highlands as well as the Paicines AVA. The earthy flavors and rich minerality of the soils create the unique wines one can only experience at Puma Road down the River Road Wine Trail.”

Paicines is just east of Monterey County in San Benito County and on the way to Pinnacles National Park.  Rolling hills of nothing but vineyards from an area which used to be a bulk growing region for Almaden now turned into higher end wines.  See my introduction here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/where-the-heck-is-paicines-and-why-should-you-care/.

From Puma Road’s Vineyard page: “Puma Road grows nearly 1,000 acres of vines in the Paicines AVA. Our estate Pedregal de Paicines Vineyard is the perfect environment for our renowned Bordeaux varietals. The soils and climate of this area are similar to certain areas of the Mediterranian (sic): mineral-rich and generally semi-arid. The dry heat of Paicines creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality from the abundance of quartz in the soil.” 

2013 Puma Road Tannat, Pedregal de Paicines Vineyard, Paicines AVA, 15.1% ABV, $40 (#18*)

Puma Road’s 2013 Tannat can convert even a non-Tannat fan!

From the Puma Road Red Wines website: “Only around 300 acres of Tannat are grown in California. Traditionally, Tannat is used as a blending grape, to add body and deep color to other varietals. Puma Road Tannat stands on its own. Our 2013 Tannat has a nose of deep, dark fruit; warm, rich spice; and earthy leather. On the palate, experience dark cherry and plum, with notes of leather, oak and spice, and a smooth finish with just the right amount of tannin.” 

My Review: I found this wine to be deep cherry colored with very smooth tannins, dark cherry and a touch of cedar on the palate with a lingering berry aftertaste.  This was a delightful, delicious wine.

2013 Puma Road Cabernet Franc Pedregal Vineyard, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 15.9% ABV, $35 (#99*)

Puma Road makes their Cabernet Franc in a delicious and big, Bordeaux style.

I needed a Cabernet Franc for a wine class in July – had just consumed the Boëté, so preferred to open something else.  I ended up drinking the Puma Road but talking about both wines at class.  I have a history with this 2013 Puma Road Cabernet Franc Pedregal Vineyard – I presented it at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar on Paicines AVA wines – it was a big hit! 

The 2013 Cabernet Franc spent 30 months in French oak. Nose of pencil shavings, pepper, leather and cloves. The mouth begins with rich dark cherry and cedar, followed by hints of licorice, and a caramel finish.  (Fairly certain this originally came from their web page.) This very high alcohol wine is big and juicy, enjoyed by all on Cassandra’s last night with us.

The 2014 is the current release:  The 2014 Cabernet Franc has a “nose of dark fruit, leather, and clove. The mouth begins with the flavor of dark cherry, followed by a hint of licorice, with bright acidity throughout, and a rich finish” at a much lower 14.2% ABV. Will have to order that one…

2013 Puma Road Cache, Pedregal Vineyard, Paicines AVA, 15.7% ABV, $40, sale $20 (#29*) 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 17% Cabernet Franc

The 2013 Cache is a delicious Cabernet-driven red blend.

From my 2019 WWCS class notes (I don’t recall the source – probably the winery): “This wine was aged 30 months in French oak. Aromas of dark fruit, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. A rich mouth feel, with flavors of cedar, vanilla, and dark red fruit, with nice acidity. This wine pairs extraordinarily well with char-grilled meats, like a juicy ribeye steak, or a ground chuck burger.”  The 2014 is the current release, also found at the current release link above.

My Review: Ruby red with deep plum and a bit of tannin on the nose.  Very smooth and dry on the palate with soft tannins.  The fruit shines through with white and green pepper notes.

Visiting Puma Road: “Reservations will be required. For our River Road Winery & Tasting Room, please call 831-675-3548 or email info@pumaroad.com. For our Monterey Portola Plaza Tasting Room, please call 831-747-1911 or email portola@pumaroad.com.”

At this time, they are offering $10 flat rate UPS ground shipping on all shipping orders of $50 or more, as well as complimentary local delivery for orders of $40 or more to many parts of Monterey County. Check out their specials!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Where the Heck Is Paicines and Why Should You Care?

There I was, happily enjoying getting to know well my Monterey County wines when an interloper started showing up on the labels in “my” tasting rooms – Paicines.  “Where the heck is Paicines?” and “How do you pronounce that?” were my early questions.  First, I saw it on the label of one of Ian Brand’s wines.  Then I saw it in Pessagno and Puma Road tasting rooms in Salinas Valley.  In April 2019, I took a hiking trip to the Pinnacles National Park and we drove through acre after acre of grape vines.  I knew then that something was up – I had to find out.  I challenged myself to create a class of exceptional wines from Paicines.  This wasn’t easy, as there really aren’t that many wineries which call out Paicines specifically on their labels.  But I pulled it off and presented 5 delicious wines to the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar in the Fall of 2019 – eh…during the Nationals’ final playoff game.  Lesson learned.

Some of the Paicines-designated wines from my wine room.

Paicines AVA – A Prelude

The Paicines AVA is a sub-AVA in San Benito County about 10 miles from Hollister, about an hour south of San Jose and just east of Monterey County.  Today it is rolling vineyards.  What else is there?  It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, so not much.  The quaint town of Paicines, population 204, and the tiny town of Tres Pinos (population 500).  If you blink, you will miss them.  And I learned it is pronounced “Pie-See-Ness.” 

I did a lot of research on Paicines back in 2019.  Much of this information likely came originally from Donati Family Vineyards website, but their website has changed, so I cannot properly source it.  I still give credit to Donati for the information!

Once known as a hideout for bandit Tiburcio Vásquez and later a bulk brand growing region by Almaden and others, Paicines is now being reclaimed – this time as a high-end grape growing region.  The Paicines AVA covers an area inside a valley, separated from Monterey by the Galiban Mountain range, which is home to the Chalone AVA further south. It is about 17 miles north of Pinnacles National Monument and Park and consists of about 4,500 acres of grape-growing area.

Paicines is in the southeastern corner of the map above (courtesy of Geology Cafe link below)

Warm daytime temperatures and afternoon, cooling breezes that comes in off the ocean, across the Salinas Valley, allowing grapes to mature more slowly, resulting in wines of great character, balance and complexity. Elevation ranges from 500-1,200 feet above sea level and it gets about 12-15 inches of rain annually.

Predominantly sandy soils with gravel and limestone provide good drainage, and deep root systems to access the water in the ground. Combined, the dry heat and the abundance of quartz in the soil creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality.

My next few blog posts will be wines specifically from the Paicines AVA, before I move on to Cienega Valley and the greater San Benito County.

There is a cool (albeit somewhat dated) “San Andreas Fault in the Cienega Valley Wine Tour Route in San Benito County, California” article and map by the Geology Café here:  https://geologycafe.com/fieldtrips/cienega_valley.html.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage: Onward to Monterey County and Beyond!

I first introduced you to Parsonage and its reserve wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/ and its non-reserve estate wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-back-to-the-estate-with-2017-releases/

Now we are going to get outside of Parsonage’s sweet spots of Carmel Valley and Arroyo Seco AVAs by presenting wines labeled “Monterey County” – and even “Central Coast”!  This post represents the beginning of our transition outside of Monterey County wines and into San Benito County, specifically to Paicines, which I will describe more in the next blog. 

I have 3 red blends for you today.  Sadly, two of them are already sold out – we will need to wait for the next vintage to be released! 

2017 Parsonage The Aussie Red Wine, 15% ABV, $38 (#15*) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Syrah

2017 The Aussie was so delicious, I had to go back and buy more.

From the Winemaker: “Our popular, magical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. We like to pair it with rack of lamb or duck. This is a big red wine.”

My Review: Blueberry, blackberry and earthy, with silky-smooth yet full tannins.  An elegantly balanced extended finish.  This wine is my kind of wine – I went back and picked up more!  Now it appears to be sold out.  April 2020

2017 Parsonage Wild Card Red Wine, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $38 (#85*)

“The Wild Card is a Complexity Bomb.”

From the Winemaker: “This is the tenth iteration of Frank’s wild and crazy idea to make an experimental blend from all of the varietals in our barrels. Forgive my failure to curb my enthusiasm but this 2017 Wild Card red wine is the best one yet!

“Each and every vintage has been fascinating and delicious, but 2017 wins by a landslide. This is the biggest, richest, most fascinating of all of them. As full-bodied as it is, it is still elegantly balanced. The Wild Card is a complexity bomb. Those six components of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, and Pinot Noir have fused in synergistic harmony to create some serious magic…

“The nose opens with a burst of floral and spice notes, star anise prominent, followed by hints of the full spectrum of red, blue, and black fruit and berries. The mouthfeel is full of texture with fine, ripe, silky tannins. All of the fruit reappears on the palate including red currant, pomegranate, raspberry, cherry, blueberry, and blackberry.

“By patient, vigilant mindfulness I can identify the constituent varietals one by one. Merlot with its foundation of cherry and red currant, Cabernet Sauvignon by its cassis and tannic backbone, Syrah from its savory hint of umami, Petit Verdot with its blueberry and drier finishing tannins, Grenache for its floral and spice notes, and finally, Pinot Noir for its bing cherry, cola and subtle Earl Grey black tea notes.”

My Review:  We tasted this wine along with all of the current releases back in June. We found this mélange of both Rhône and Bordeaux varietals to be refreshing.  With so many different grapes and flavors, we, however, couldn’t align it to distinct flavors as well as Parsonage could.  I was able to re-taste this wine with a friend in October.  Ruby in color, raspberry and currant on the nose, cherry and currant on the palate with a nice, lingering finish.  My friend enjoyed it so much she took two bottles home!

2017 Parsonage The BDL, Central Coast, 15% ABV, $42 (#173*)

The BDL sold out quickly – by fans who remembered its predecessor!

Winemaker’s Notes: “BDL is shorthand for Bordelais, a wildly popular (but illegally named) wine we produced years ago. This exquisite Bordeaux blend is 52 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 percent Merlot, and 8 percent each Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cab Franc. It has all the bells and whistles Bordeaux lovers expect from an elegantly balanced and much more expensive bottle that crosses the Atlantic to get here.” (This wine has some juice from Paicines AVA – I’m guessing the Malbec.) This wine sold out very quickly.

My Review: Very dense dark red in color.  Bodacious dark nose – sweet dark cherry and caramel.  Rich dark fruit on the palate, with some sweeter bright cherry fruit on the finish, bordering on a port-like finish.  Slightly vegetal with a little leather.  August 2020

You can obtain the Wild Card and other Parsonage wines directly from the winery here and pick them up at the tasting room or have them shipped to you.  Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5  and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.

The Parsonage wine tasting parklet is spacious and the staff, very attentive to CDC protocols.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Integrity: “honest, real, and one of a kind” wines “made for people by people”

Back in June, my DC wine friends decided the theme for our weekly class would be rosé – a perfect wine for a warm end-of-Spring day.  I dropped into Bottles N’ Bins in Monterey and asked what they had from local wineries.  I found a well-known wine on the shelves right away, but I wanted to explore something different.  The clerk wasn’t sure, so he made a call – we found 3 more options in their refrigerator, ready to drink.  I lined them all up, looked at their colors and selected the darkest one. I didn’t know about “orange wines” when I selected this wine – turns out that was what I had.

From Cal Wine Jaunt:  “Integrity Wines offers flights of wine on Aviation Way (Watsonville, CA). The Integrity tasting room and production site is just steps from the Watsonville airport. Owner, Mark Hoover, recently opened the doors to his “urban winery.” Mark prefers to travel around and choose the grapes that he likes for his wines. He decided to skip the land and vineyards, source the grapes he wants, and focus on producing wines. It always helps to know your own goals and strengths. And Mark knows he would rather make wine than grow wine…

“Mark has been making wine since the ’80s with 2018 marking his third year of production. For some time his friends kept encouraging him and his talent for making wines…To his credit, Mark’s wines are holding their own. His 2016 Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay won a Silver Metal in the Monterey National Wine Competition. Sip Integrity wines made with grapes from the Santa Lucia Highlands, Sonoma, Napa, and of course, local Bay Area vineyards. Integrity wines are made for people, by people.

“When pouring a bottle, you’ll notice the thumbprint logo was placed directly where one grabs the bottle. I think of the thumbprint as a nod towards the tech industry, one’s unique identity and authenticity. For my tasting friend, the thumbprint brought to mind being honest, real, and one of a kind. The thumbprint evokes images and meaning to each of us. But in the end, what we put our hand to is very significant. Mark Hoover has put his hand to making wines.”

2017 Integrity Rosé, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $16 (#82*) 90% Pinot Gris (Monterey County) 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This rosé is really more of an orange wine than a classic rosé.

Winemaker’s Notes: 2017 Rosé of Pinots Monterey County. 90% Pinot Grigio (Monterey County) and 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains.) On the nose: strawberry, chalk, and graham cracker. On the palate: soft watermelon. Serve with fresh feta, mint, and watermelon, along with grilled chicken skewers. https://www.calwinejaunt.com/sip-and-tell-blog/integrity-wines-watsonville-wine-flights-plane-flights )

My Review: A bold pink, almost orange in color from the Pinot Gris, which naturally has an orange hue.  Powerful floral nose of honeysuckle and lemongrass.  Refreshing, bold palate with bright acidity and a lingering finish.  This wine did not disappoint.

You can obtain this wine directly from the winery or locally at Bottles N’ Bins Liquors on Lighthouse Avenue in Monterey.  I have not checked their inventory lately.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Windy Oaks Estate: “premium wines grown in unique terroirs…”

We discovered Windy Oaks when they opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley (yes, you’ve heard this before).  The winery is located in Corralitos in the Santa Cruz Mountains, overlooking the Monterey Bay.  While most of their wines are from their 30-acres of vineyards, where they produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, they also source grapes from Monterey County.  We found them interesting for what they have done with clones, making even a non-Pinot Noir lover stop to enjoy their wines.  But I digress.

From Windy Oaks: “Windy Oaks was founded in 1996 by Jim and Judy Schultze, when they returned to California after living overseas for 7 years in Australia and Europe. On a windy ridge in Corralitos, overlooking Monterey Bay, they planted their first three acres and produced their first vintage of Pinot Noir in 1999. Today, they farm almost 30 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.”

Windy Oaks was named “Winery of the Year 2018 by Rusty Gaffney, PinotFile, one of the most knowledgeable wine writers in the industry.”

Windy Oaks 2015 Night Owl Red GSM, Monterey County, 13.8% ABV, $28? (#8*)

The 2015 Night Owl Red has all the fruit and complexity expected of a GSM.

Today’s wine, the 2015 Night Owl Red, is a Rhône blend – a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blended from 3 different Monterey County AVAs:  Arroyo Seco, Chalone, and Santa Lucia Highlands.  We would expect a GSM to be a bold wine, a bit leathery with dark fruits. 

My Review: A beautiful ruby red in color, this wine has bright fruit notes on the nose and palate, with a darker fruit finish and a bit of that bitterness or leather one might expect.  I found the brighter fruits made it very drinkable and enjoyable, while the finish would stand up to a good meal and leave you wanting more.  I don’t have notes on the exact blend for this wine, but I would expect it to be 40-45% Grenache, 25-30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvèdre.  There is not much publicly available information on this vintage; 2016 is the current release. 

Windy Oaks Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village!

All of Windy Oaks tasting rooms are open:  at the winery, in Carmel-By-The-Sea, and in Carmel Valley Village.  Check here for the details: http://www.windyoaksestate.com/.  Please call 831-724-9562 for reservations and other pertinent info.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

P’tit Paysan Delights Guests with its 2019 Sauvignon Blanc!

Warm Labor Day weekend called for opening a white wine none of us had yet tried.  One of the things I admire about I. Brand wines is his reach in sourcing his grapes.  In the case of this wine, he chose a vineyard that is one of my very favorites from the Arroyo Seco AVA. 

I have presented Ian Brand’s wines to you in a couple of posts:  P’tit Paysan and La Marea lines here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/ian-brand-discovering-great-vineyards-at-the-edge-of-sensible-farming/  and I. Brand & Family here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/i-brand-family-what-we-do-is-simple-without-artifice-and-we-enjoy-it/.

Today I am bringing you one of their wines from the Arroyo Seco AVA, an AVA I previously introduced you to here: https://decantingmonterey.com/pierce-ranch-eclectic-varietals-from-the-san-antonio-ava/.

2019 P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $22 (#165*) 

The 2019 Le P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc

About the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc: “Certified Organic. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Zabala Vineyards is located on a large holding on the Arroyo Seco floodplains that was part of land granted to the Zabala family before California’s statehood. It was first planted in the 1970s and has grown to encompass over 1000 acres. Zabala Vineyards is one of the rockiest vineyards Ian Brand works with, full of what is locally known as ‘Greenfield Potatoes’, which are the rather inedible round river stones that dominate the soil and have been collected into piles and walls at every property in the basin. This vineyard is located directly in the path of the daily Salinas Valley winds, which control sugar development and retain natural acidity. Picked around 22.5 brix with bright acidity. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in 1/3 stainless, 2/3 neutral barrel for 7 months. Arrested malic. 120 cases produced.”

My Review: Bright yellow – pretty golden color.  Grassy and citrus on the nose.  All that plus a touch of pineapple on the palate.  Delicious. September 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM to order wines or reserve a tasting. 

The I. Brand Tasting Room is open by appointment!

*Refers to wines tasted while sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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