Monthly Archive: January 2023

Last Minute Switchup Leads to Scratch!

When the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society lost the planned location for their December gathering, the Scratch Tasting Room offered an excellent alternative! We are indebted to Scratch’s staff for accommodating us on very short notice.  It allowed us to have an exceptional social and wine education event.  I knew from photos announcing its opening that this tasting room was designed to the nines.  But I didn’t realize how spacious it was!  It would be a great location to have a quiet tasting with a girlfriend or a larger event like a bachelorette party or a reception. Really lovely. And the wines matched the setting.

Sabrine Rodems is Monterey County’s most renowned female winemakers. Not only is she the winemaker for the highly respected Wrath Winery (where I first learned of her), but also has her own label – Scratch – and serves as the winemaker for Kori Wines.  While I enjoyed a bottle of Scratch’s Blanc de Blanc earlier in the pandemic, and have written up one or two of her wines, I had not had the opportunity to stop by for a wine tasting or write up a review.

About Scratch from its Website: “Scratch is a project of Winemaker Sabrine Rodems producing small-lot Chardonnay Sparkling, Riesling, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from Monterey, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s.

“Sabrine received her Bachelor’s degree from UCLA in Theatre, Film and Television and worked in the film and theatre industry for many years before deciding to go back to school to earn her Master’s of Science in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis. For the past twenty years Sabrine has been making highly acclaimed wines from some of the best vineyards in California.

“Working in the Central Coast and Monterey area has given her access to some of the best cool climate grapes in the world.” 

I’m also intrigued by her edgy labels. I asked the winery about the message behind them and got this response: “Mr. Cola was once a photographer for the New York Times then eventually found his calling in producing art. Sabrine was originally drawn to Mr. Colla due to his edgy nature as well as powerful message. As we do not have a lot of female wine makers today, we really wanted to showcase strong independent “bad ass” women on our labels to celebrate the change in the industry but also in hopes of inspiring the next generation of female wine makers.” They suggested we check out the artist’s website here: https://www.eddiecolla.com/.

On Eddie’s website he says this: ” There is a visual conversation that takes place on the streets of urban environments. This conversation is dominated primarily by advertising and utilitarian signage and assumes passive participation. Whether invited or not I am going to participate in this conversation. Public spaces were never intended to be coated from top to bottom with photos of consumer products. These spaces should, in some manner, reflect the culture that thrives in that space.”

Erin O of Terravenos and me!

I have 7 Scratch wines to present to you today from this event. I was assisted in my tasting notes by Erin O of Terravinos. I’ll write more abut her in the coming weeks. Therefore, today my notes are a little more in-depth and descriptive. Erin has a much more sophisticated and trained palate than I. I’ve added “assisted by Erin” to those reviews. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.scratchwines.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2020 Scratch Blanc de Blanc, Monterey AVA, 12% ABV, $49 (#905)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Extra Brut Chardonnay sparkling wine with brisk acidity and refreshing bubbles. Citrus with some tropical flair of lychee, guava and white flowers.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Light cream soda in the glass. Pear and honeysuckle on the yeasty nose. Very crisp palate with notes of lemon zest and green apple – very balanced flavors and a creamy mousse. Super youthful. Nice. December 2022

2020 Scratch Brut Rose, Monterey AVA, 12.1% ABV, $49 (#906)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The touch of 828 Clone Pinot Noir to the Clone 96 Chardonnay base synergistically add a juiciness to the mid-palate that makes you want to take another sip!  Clone 96 Chardonnay has a round honey-dew melon mouth feel and with the addition of pinot makes you think you are biting into a fresh Fuji apple.  This sparkling wine is make using the classic Methode Champenoise, fermented in the bottle.”

My Review, assisted by Erin:  Dusty rose/pale pink in color.  Strawberry jam with a little biscuit and red apple on the nose. Strawberry and rose petals on the palate, amplified by crisp red fruits and ruby grapefruit.  A soft mousse. Fills the palate with bubbles. Youthful. December 2022

2019 Scratch Riesling, Monterey AVA, 13.7% ABV, $28 (#907)   

Winemaker’s Notes: “This Riesling is on fire! Big acid, bright minerality, grapefruit and lemon with a hint of flowers.   There is no residual sugar in this wine so it is not sweet at all, it is completely dry.  From the rocky, loamy Kristy’s Vineyard.  ”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Medium lemon in color. Some lees on the creamy, biscuity nose – reminiscent of a sauterne! Nectarine, peach and minerality on the palate. Muted acidity and brightness. Drink now. December 2022

2021 Scratch Boekenoogen Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.4% ABV, $49 (#908)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright energetic palate of Cranberries, pomegranate seeds, sour cherries and berries. This juicy Pinot from the near top of the Santa Lucia Highlands bench shows the classic fruit of this AVA along with nutmeg, cinnamon and hints of white pepper.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Pale ruby in color.  Bouquet of cranberry, raspberry, red plum, and warm baking spices, followed by a touch of garrigue. Raspberry and cranberry on the palate with medium minus tannins and medium acid, leading to a slightly bitter finish. Not cherry at all. The intensity of the fruit is not matched by the alcohol. December 2022

2018 Scratch KW Ranch Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#909) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A rich and lush Pinot Noir with black cherries, plum, nutmeg, clove and hints of anise. Produced using 30% whole clusters fermentation creates a structured wine with balanced tannins and complexity.”

My Review assisted by Erin:  Pale garnet in color. Dried cranberry and Bing cherry on the nose – potpourri. Medium-bodied palate presents a little jammy with medium plus grippy tannins and a touch of caramel with cherry notes on the finish. High alcohol.

2018 Scratch Grenache, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#910)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This wine with nutmeg, clove, anise and black cherries will make your meal sing!  This is a sneak-peek at this yet-to-be-released-wine.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: A perfume of rose petal, lavender, raspberry, black cherry and red fruits like cranberry and a tiny bit of chocolate, tobacco.  Perfume carries over to palate with cranberry and raspberry flavors. This is a big wine with medium grippy tannins. December 2022

2017 Scratch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.4% ABV, $75 (#911)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “From the steep hillside of the JANACA Vineyard on Mt. Madonna. Rich flavors of plum and blackberries with juniper, nutmeg, clove. Classic Cabernet!”  

My Review, assisted by Erin: Inky in the glass. Brambly, blackberry nose with baking spice, mint and sage notes. Full bodied and rich with chalky tannins. This is a lovely wine that represents well one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon growing regions in California. December 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

The Scratch Tasting Room is located at 1 East Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Sunday – Thursday: 12 PM – 7 PM; Friday – Saturday: 12 PM – 8 PM.  You can find more information here.

I Brand Fall 2022 Release Party: A Simplified Setup!

Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events.  This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco.  That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases.  While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.

I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines.  There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.

I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!

I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.

“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.

“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020

Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot

Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.

“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.

“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”

My Review:  Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose.  Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red.  September 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”

My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard:  Super bright.  Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley.  Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.

“Tasting Notes:  Amazingly balanced!  Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple.  Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”

My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022

2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip. 

Tasting Notes:  Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.

My Review:  Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass.  Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022

2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.

“Tasting Notes:  The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence.   Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose.  A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty.  As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc.  A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.  

“Tasting Notes:  Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf.  The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon.  This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc.  November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.

“Tasting Notes:   The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs.  Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes.  Good structure.  A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)

Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon. 

“Tasting Notes:  The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin.  This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back.  Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

Stolpman Hilltops: Love me my Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs!

Last August, when I went on my “Sideways” tour in search of Ballard Canyon Syrahs, we stopped at Stolpman.  I wrote all about it here: https://decantingmonterey.com/stolpman-delivers-a-world-class-experience-sideways-part-3/. But there was one Syrah they didn’t have open and would not open for me to taste – their Hilltops Syrah. I purchased one to taste later. And we did. I think we probably should have let it sit a bit longer, but curiosity got the best of me.

I won’t repeat everything I wrote up about Stolpman in my last post, but encourage you to check it out to learn more. Let’s just get to the Hilltops. Today I am reviewing just the one Stolpman wine.  Winery notes come from their webpage, where you can also purchase their wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2017 Stolpman Vineyards Hilltops Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $52 (#893)      

Winery Notes:

BACKGROUND   

“We first vineyard designated this cuvee from the modern-day Hilltops block in 2008, only 4 years after replanting the Estate’s center ridge to a variety of our favorite Syrah strains and clones.  Since then, we have refined the Hilltops cuvee into a tight selection of our favorite micro-blocks within the greater hilltop.     Prior to 2008, the Hilltops wine came from a barrel selection of Syrah from all three ridges on the vineyard.  Those grapes are now blended into the main Estate Grown Syrah cuvee.

VINTAGE   

“2019 marked the second vintage in a row without harvest-time heat spikes.  Facial Expressions around the team conveyed our shared thoughts and feelings without saying a word – a certain giddiness that we had a shot at replaying 2018 armed with that year of heat-free experience.  And, the acids were hanging even higher and fresher than 2018.  The Tell of the vintage is extremely energetic, high-toned red wine that will age well over a decade.

SENSORY

“Opaque tarry dark fruit kissed with lavender and backed with sage and mint.  Fine, feathery and elegant with a playful prettiness in its youth – but we can’t wait to check in on the 2019 Hilltops in 3-5 years once unfurled.”

My Review: Slightly sweet nose of raspberry, yeast, lavender, cocoa and alcohol. Rich plum, blackberry, some vanilla. Improved after opening up. I do think we should have waited to open this to get its full potential, but we liked it anyway. Love me my Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs! November 2022Visit: You can taste Stolpman wines at their tasting room in the center of Los Olivos: 2434 Alamo Pintado Avenue. You can make a reservation on-line or give them a call at 1-805-688-0400.  I reserved on-line and it was very easy! We sat on a picnic bench in the shade.  As I said before, “If you can only stop at one place to taste wines in Los Olivos, I’d definitely stop here!”

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Law Beyond Category: A Powerful Spanish Blend

Law Estate Wines: Beyond Category

Last October, we had our Decanting Monterey Wine Pod partners over for dinner and they brought the 2015 Law Beyond Category red blend.  It was a seriously big blend of Spanish varietals and abundantly food friendly.  It paired well with the rigatoni we served.

 I have presented Law Estate Wines a few times before: https://decantingmonterey.com/law-estate-rose-the-perfect-wine-for-an-unexpectedly-hot-coastal-afternoon/, https://decantingmonterey.com/laws-intrepid-a-brilliant-representation-of-the-adelaida-districts-terroir/, and https://decantingmonterey.com/law-aspire-an-entrancing-red-blend-from-americas-rhone/. So I am going to just dive right into this wine.

As usual, winery notes come from the winery’s website and errors are mine and mine alone.

2015 Law Beyond Category, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, 15.6% ABV, $60 34% Tempranillo, 27% Carignane, 25% Mourvedre, 14% Grenache

Winery Notes: “The ever-evolving Beyond Category has now taken a more focused approach behind its lead varietal, Tempranillo. Inspired by the rich and silky Rioja wines of Spain, this Spanish blend is texturally incredible and highlights rural feelings of leather, sweet tobacco, sage and lavender. The cascade of freshness and brilliant fruit, garnered by the estate’s limestone soil, sweeps the palate with compliments of caramel and spice from the 42% new French oak used during aging.” 93 points by Vinous; 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Intense nose of berries and thick on the palate. Super rich and fruity. This is my kind of wine – I wouldn’t mind having more. Sadly, the Beyond Category is sold out for all released vintages!! October 2022

You can purchase Law wines from the winery on line or at their tasting room.  Check it out here. Tastings are by reservation only.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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