Category: Wine Blog/Reviews

Last Minute Switchup Leads to Scratch!

When the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society lost the planned location for their December gathering, the Scratch Tasting Room offered an excellent alternative! We are indebted to Scratch’s staff for accommodating us on very short notice.  It allowed us to have an exceptional social and wine education event.  I knew from photos announcing its opening that this tasting room was designed to the nines.  But I didn’t realize how spacious it was!  It would be a great location to have a quiet tasting with a girlfriend or a larger event like a bachelorette party or a reception. Really lovely. And the wines matched the setting.

Sabrine Rodems is Monterey County’s most renowned female winemakers. Not only is she the winemaker for the highly respected Wrath Winery (where I first learned of her), but also has her own label – Scratch – and serves as the winemaker for Kori Wines.  While I enjoyed a bottle of Scratch’s Blanc de Blanc earlier in the pandemic, and have written up one or two of her wines, I had not had the opportunity to stop by for a wine tasting or write up a review.

About Scratch from its Website: “Scratch is a project of Winemaker Sabrine Rodems producing small-lot Chardonnay Sparkling, Riesling, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from Monterey, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s.

“Sabrine received her Bachelor’s degree from UCLA in Theatre, Film and Television and worked in the film and theatre industry for many years before deciding to go back to school to earn her Master’s of Science in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis. For the past twenty years Sabrine has been making highly acclaimed wines from some of the best vineyards in California.

“Working in the Central Coast and Monterey area has given her access to some of the best cool climate grapes in the world.” 

I’m also intrigued by her edgy labels. I asked the winery about the message behind them and got this response: “Mr. Cola was once a photographer for the New York Times then eventually found his calling in producing art. Sabrine was originally drawn to Mr. Colla due to his edgy nature as well as powerful message. As we do not have a lot of female wine makers today, we really wanted to showcase strong independent “bad ass” women on our labels to celebrate the change in the industry but also in hopes of inspiring the next generation of female wine makers.” They suggested we check out the artist’s website here: https://www.eddiecolla.com/.

On Eddie’s website he says this: ” There is a visual conversation that takes place on the streets of urban environments. This conversation is dominated primarily by advertising and utilitarian signage and assumes passive participation. Whether invited or not I am going to participate in this conversation. Public spaces were never intended to be coated from top to bottom with photos of consumer products. These spaces should, in some manner, reflect the culture that thrives in that space.”

Erin O of Terravenos and me!

I have 7 Scratch wines to present to you today from this event. I was assisted in my tasting notes by Erin O of Terravinos. I’ll write more abut her in the coming weeks. Therefore, today my notes are a little more in-depth and descriptive. Erin has a much more sophisticated and trained palate than I. I’ve added “assisted by Erin” to those reviews. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.scratchwines.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

Our Monterey AWS Chapter Leadership!

2020 Scratch Blanc de Blanc, Monterey AVA, 12% ABV, $49 (#905)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Extra Brut Chardonnay sparkling wine with brisk acidity and refreshing bubbles. Citrus with some tropical flair of lychee, guava and white flowers.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Light cream soda in the glass. Pear and honeysuckle on the yeasty nose. Very crisp palate with notes of lemon zest and green apple – very balanced flavors and a creamy mousse. Super youthful. Nice. December 2022

2020 Scratch Brut Rose, Monterey AVA, 12.1% ABV, $49 (#906)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The touch of 828 Clone Pinot Noir to the Clone 96 Chardonnay base synergistically add a juiciness to the mid-palate that makes you want to take another sip!  Clone 96 Chardonnay has a round honey-dew melon mouth feel and with the addition of pinot makes you think you are biting into a fresh Fuji apple.  This sparkling wine is make using the classic Methode Champenoise, fermented in the bottle.”

My Review, assisted by Erin:  Dusty rose/pale pink in color.  Strawberry jam with a little biscuit and red apple on the nose. Strawberry and rose petals on the palate, amplified by crisp red fruits and ruby grapefruit.  A soft mousse. Fills the palate with bubbles. Youthful. December 2022

2019 Scratch Riesling, Monterey AVA, 13.7% ABV, $28 (#907)   

Winemaker’s Notes: “This Riesling is on fire! Big acid, bright minerality, grapefruit and lemon with a hint of flowers.   There is no residual sugar in this wine so it is not sweet at all, it is completely dry.  From the rocky, loamy Kristy’s Vineyard.  ”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Medium lemon in color. Some lees on the creamy, biscuity nose – reminiscent of a sauterne! Nectarine, peach and minerality on the palate. Muted acidity and brightness. Drink now. December 2022

2021 Scratch Boekenoogen Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.4% ABV, $49 (#908)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright energetic palate of Cranberries, pomegranate seeds, sour cherries and berries. This juicy Pinot from the near top of the Santa Lucia Highlands bench shows the classic fruit of this AVA along with nutmeg, cinnamon and hints of white pepper.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: Pale ruby in color.  Bouquet of cranberry, raspberry, red plum, and warm baking spices, followed by a touch of garrigue. Raspberry and cranberry on the palate with medium minus tannins and medium acid, leading to a slightly bitter finish. Not cherry at all. The intensity of the fruit is not matched by the alcohol. December 2022

2018 Scratch KW Ranch Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#909) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A rich and lush Pinot Noir with black cherries, plum, nutmeg, clove and hints of anise. Produced using 30% whole clusters fermentation creates a structured wine with balanced tannins and complexity.”

My Review assisted by Erin:  Pale garnet in color. Dried cranberry and Bing cherry on the nose – potpourri. Medium-bodied palate presents a little jammy with medium plus grippy tannins and a touch of caramel with cherry notes on the finish. High alcohol.

2018 Scratch Grenache, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#910)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This wine with nutmeg, clove, anise and black cherries will make your meal sing!  This is a sneak-peek at this yet-to-be-released-wine.”

My Review, assisted by Erin: A perfume of rose petal, lavender, raspberry, black cherry and red fruits like cranberry and a tiny bit of chocolate, tobacco.  Perfume carries over to palate with cranberry and raspberry flavors. This is a big wine with medium grippy tannins. December 2022

2017 Scratch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.4% ABV, $75 (#911)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “From the steep hillside of the JANACA Vineyard on Mt. Madonna. Rich flavors of plum and blackberries with juniper, nutmeg, clove. Classic Cabernet!”  

My Review, assisted by Erin: Inky in the glass. Brambly, blackberry nose with baking spice, mint and sage notes. Full bodied and rich with chalky tannins. This is a lovely wine that represents well one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon growing regions in California. December 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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The Scratch Tasting Room is located at 1 East Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Sunday – Thursday: 12 PM – 7 PM; Friday – Saturday: 12 PM – 8 PM.  You can find more information here.

I Brand Fall 2022 Release Party: A Simplified Setup!

Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events.  This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco.  That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases.  While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.

I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines.  There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.

I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!

I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.

“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.

“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020

Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot

Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.

“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.

“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”

My Review:  Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose.  Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red.  September 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”

My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard:  Super bright.  Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley.  Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.

“Tasting Notes:  Amazingly balanced!  Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple.  Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”

My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022

2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip. 

“Tasting Notes:  Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”

My Review:  Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass.  Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022

2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.

“Tasting Notes:  The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence.   Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose.  A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty.  As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc.  A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.  

“Tasting Notes:  Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf.  The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon.  This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc.  November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.

“Tasting Notes:   The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs.  Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes.  Good structure.  A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)

My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon. 

“Tasting Notes:  The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin.  This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back.  Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

Stolpman Hilltops: Love me my Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs!

Last August, when I went on my “Sideways” tour in search of Ballard Canyon Syrahs, we stopped at Stolpman.  I wrote all about it here: https://decantingmonterey.com/stolpman-delivers-a-world-class-experience-sideways-part-3/. But there was one Syrah they didn’t have open and would not open for me to taste – their Hilltops Syrah. I purchased one to taste later. And we did. I think we probably should have let it sit a bit longer, but curiosity got the best of me.

I won’t repeat everything I wrote up about Stolpman in my last post, but encourage you to check it out to learn more. Let’s just get to the Hilltops. Today I am reviewing just the one Stolpman wine.  Winery notes come from their webpage, where you can also purchase their wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2017 Stolpman Vineyards Hilltops Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $52 (#893)      

Winery Notes:

BACKGROUND   

“We first vineyard designated this cuvee from the modern-day Hilltops block in 2008, only 4 years after replanting the Estate’s center ridge to a variety of our favorite Syrah strains and clones.  Since then, we have refined the Hilltops cuvee into a tight selection of our favorite micro-blocks within the greater hilltop.     Prior to 2008, the Hilltops wine came from a barrel selection of Syrah from all three ridges on the vineyard.  Those grapes are now blended into the main Estate Grown Syrah cuvee.

VINTAGE   

“2019 marked the second vintage in a row without harvest-time heat spikes.  Facial Expressions around the team conveyed our shared thoughts and feelings without saying a word – a certain giddiness that we had a shot at replaying 2018 armed with that year of heat-free experience.  And, the acids were hanging even higher and fresher than 2018.  The Tell of the vintage is extremely energetic, high-toned red wine that will age well over a decade.

SENSORY

“Opaque tarry dark fruit kissed with lavender and backed with sage and mint.  Fine, feathery and elegant with a playful prettiness in its youth – but we can’t wait to check in on the 2019 Hilltops in 3-5 years once unfurled.”

My Review: Slightly sweet nose of raspberry, yeast, lavender, cocoa and alcohol. Rich plum, blackberry, some vanilla. Improved after opening up. I do think we should have waited to open this to get its full potential, but we liked it anyway. Love me my Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs! November 2022Visit: You can taste Stolpman wines at their tasting room in the center of Los Olivos: 2434 Alamo Pintado Avenue. You can make a reservation on-line or give them a call at 1-805-688-0400.  I reserved on-line and it was very easy! We sat on a picnic bench in the shade.  As I said before, “If you can only stop at one place to taste wines in Los Olivos, I’d definitely stop here!”

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Law Beyond Category: A Powerful Spanish Blend

Law Estate Wines: Beyond Category

Last October, we had our Decanting Monterey Wine Pod partners over for dinner and they brought the 2015 Law Beyond Category red blend.  It was a seriously big blend of Spanish varietals and abundantly food friendly.  It paired well with the rigatoni we served.

 I have presented Law Estate Wines a few times before: https://decantingmonterey.com/law-estate-rose-the-perfect-wine-for-an-unexpectedly-hot-coastal-afternoon/, https://decantingmonterey.com/laws-intrepid-a-brilliant-representation-of-the-adelaida-districts-terroir/, and https://decantingmonterey.com/law-aspire-an-entrancing-red-blend-from-americas-rhone/. So I am going to just dive right into this wine.

As usual, winery notes come from the winery’s website and errors are mine and mine alone.

2015 Law Beyond Category, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, 15.6% ABV, $60 34% Tempranillo, 27% Carignane, 25% Mourvedre, 14% Grenache

Winery Notes: “The ever-evolving Beyond Category has now taken a more focused approach behind its lead varietal, Tempranillo. Inspired by the rich and silky Rioja wines of Spain, this Spanish blend is texturally incredible and highlights rural feelings of leather, sweet tobacco, sage and lavender. The cascade of freshness and brilliant fruit, garnered by the estate’s limestone soil, sweeps the palate with compliments of caramel and spice from the 42% new French oak used during aging.” 93 points by Vinous; 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Intense nose of berries and thick on the palate. Super rich and fruity. This is my kind of wine – I wouldn’t mind having more. Sadly, the Beyond Category is sold out for all released vintages!! October 2022

You can purchase Law wines from the winery on line or at their tasting room.  Check it out here. Tastings are by reservation only.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Bernardus Marinus Dinner: What a Way to Close out 2022!

Our wine allocations from our various memberships go through peaks and valleys.  A peak was in October when suddenly it seemed we needed to pick up wine from them all at the same time! We stopped in at Bernardus and were offered a tasting. It was there that we learned about the Marinus Dinner and snatched the last seats for the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.  Marinus is the Bernardus flagship Bordeaux-style red blend. You can read more about former owner Ben Pon’s dream to make Bordeaux-style wine right in Carmel Valley here: https://decantingmonterey.com/bernardusmarinus2010/.

We attended the previous Marinus dinner in 2019 (pre-pandemic). The event was spectacular – a multi-course meal by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel who expertly crafted dishes to paired nicely with Marinus wines of various vintages.  You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.

The recent 2022 Marinus dinner was an expanded affair.  Limited to 22 Marinus club members, it took up 2 rooms in their tasting room – twice the size of the previous event.  The meal was lovely from beginning to end.  I felt as though it were New Year’s Eve and our anniversary dinner all rolled into one!

The Pon Family Crest
Winemaker Dean describes the wines.

This is a rather lengthy writeup, so bear with me.  It starts with the tasting room visit, focused on the 5 non-Marinus wines we had, followed by the Marinus dinner writeup of 6 Marinus wines and our beautiful meal, to close out 2022 in a celebratory way! A few of these wines have been presented here before and several library wines are no longer available. And we did start off the dinner with a glass of their rose from Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, their new effort to do something a little different.  I previously wrote up that wine (#677) here: https://decantingmonterey.com/monterey-county-vintners-and-growers-know-how-to-celebrate-monterey-winemakers/.

Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2021 Bernardus Chardonnay, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $30 (#884)

Winery Notes from www.wine.com: “Bernardus Monterey Chardonnay exhibits bright white fruit aromas accented by subtle oak notes. The palate is intense and beautifully focused with vibrant peach and tropical fruit flavors along with spice accents. The long finish is supported by a refreshing acidity. Another superb example of Chardonnay from Monterey County.”

My Review: Golden in the glass. Tropical on the nose and tasty on the palate. This vintage is slightly metallic on the finish. I believe the Monterey Chardonnay is representative of our region. October 2022

2021 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $50 (#885)

Winery Notes: “As the vineyard matures, the wines seem to keep getting better and better. This vintage of Ingrid’s Chardonnay is possibly our finest to date! The aromas express ripe tropical fruits and honeysuckle. The palate is very rich and complex with flavors of ripe white fruits and ginger cookie spice. A beautiful expression of this special Carmel Valley vineyard!”

My Review: Very tropical palate with tasty pineapple notes – a cut above. A very fine example of what Monterey County can do with Chardonnay. October 2022

2019 Bernardus Marinus Vineyard Merlot, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $50 (#371)

Winery Notes: “In the glass you will see a wine of deep crimson red. The aromas show bright dark red fruit scents with subtle spice notes. The palate is very rich and soft, with flavors of dried cherries and cranberries, accented with hints of chocolate. The delicious flavors linger beautifully on the long, powerful finish. A superb Merlot!” 90 Points- Wine Enthusiast

My Review: Ruby in color. Sweet spice on the nose.  Delicious palate of cherry and berry fruits. I like this bottling even more than the previous vintage. October 2022

2017 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 12.8% ABV, $125 magnum, currently (as of 12/21) on sale $62.50!!! (#289)

Winery Notes: “Our 2017 Cabernet exudes spicy aromas of red berry and cranberry. The palate beautifully reflects the aromas showing juicy red fruit flavors with a subtle, refreshing acidity. Our Cabernet has been aged for six months in 28-year-old neutral French oak tanks in order to allow the fruit flavors of these grapes to shine through without any oak barrel influence. We hope you will enjoy this wonderful wine as much as we do!”

My Review: Dark ruby in color. Vibrant, fresh red and black fruits on the nose – berries, cherry, carrying over to the palate. Tasty, with a dry finish with a touch of cassis and tobacco. While seemingly light in comparison to the bigger Marinus blends, this opened up into a tongue-coating, delicious little wine. September 2022

2018 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 12.6% ABV, $50 (#886)

Winery Notes: “In the glass you will see a wine of deep crimson red. The aromas show beautiful dark red fruit scents with subtle spice notes. The palate is very rich, expressing intense black cherry and plum flavors, supported by ripe tannins on the finish. An excellent addition to our Bernardus line-up!”

My Review: Pretty rich ruby in color. A toasty nose with nice Cabernet Sauvignon flavors on the palate. October/November 2022

1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)

Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)

My Review: Inky in the glass. Dark and tannic with a touch of ham on the nose. Drinking well – like an old Bordeaux. Balanced. November 2022

2000 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#888)

Winery Notes from www.wine.com: “Increasing vine maturity coupled with almost perfect growing conditions enabled us to make a wine of great concentration that still has subtlety and elegance. Even in years of great ripeness our winemaking style emphasizes the textural element of the wine, making it approachable now, with the balance of flavors to age gracefully.”

Raviole de Boeuf

My Review: More purple in color. Leathery. A little alcohol up front with dark fruits on the palate. So smooth. Super well balanced. November 2022

2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#39) Cabernet Sauvignon 59%, Merlot 29%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%           

Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

Roasted Duck Breast

My Review: Cassis/prune on the nose. Very smooth on the palate. Pairs well with the duck breast. Very delicious. Chalky. Drinking well! November 2022 Marinus is aged in oak for 16 months.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889)

Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!”

My Review: Label says 14.1% ABV, but probably 14.8%. Rich, dark berry nose with licorice and cocoa notes. Delicious full palate. I gave this wine two hearts! November 2022

2017 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 13.9% ABV, $75 (pre-release) (#890)

Winery Notes: This vintage has more Merlot in the blend – more like a Right Bank Bordeaux. This was a cooler winter.

Assiette de Fromage

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “This is a classic taste of the Carmel Valley, starting with aromas of blackberry jam, stewed berry and oak spice on the nose. The palate combines a rich blackberry-sauce core along with peppery spices and a luxurious streak of vanilla.” Matt Kettmann, 12/2022

My Review: This vintage has more Merlot, more like a Right Bank Bordeaux. Black licorice, blackberry and toasted oak on the nose – a marshamallowy vanilla. Very jammy yummy on the palate. Be ready for this one to be released – it is terrific. November 2022

2017 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 14.1% ABV, $125 (pre-release) (#891)

Winery Notes: N/A

Chocolate Decadence

My Review: Inky purple in the glass. Cocoa on the nose. Dark berry and cocoa on the palate. Really jammy. So delicious. This is going to be a great wine. November 2022

Tasting Bernardus Wines: Their tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open Tuesday-Saturday.  every day! Reservations are not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here or email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call them at 831-298-8021

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Parsonage Library Wine: The Last of the Carmelstone!

We learned the hard way that, when your winery allocation includes a library wine, then you really should drink it.  With that in mind, we have been combing our stock for must-drink wines and found a bunch of Parsonage that needed to be opened.  My last post about Parsonage wines was in August here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-showcases-its-powerful-wines-to-the-monterey-aws/.  Since then, we have been to their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village to taste new releases and also sampled quite a few library wines from our own collection.

Years ago, Parsonage bottles a Syrah from the Carmelstone section of their vineyard.  I believe they told me that they no longer get enough fruit from the Carmelstone lot to bottle it separately. It was some of the finest Syrah I had ever tasted.  We found 2 bottles of the 2014 vintage in our private collection – they were enjoyed greatly and are sadly gone. That might be the end of Carmelstone for us. I do notice on their website that they have a couple of vintages of this wine in 5 liter bottles – a bit out of my size and price range, but it is tempting…

Today, I am presenting 9 Parsonage wines – a few new releases and a lot of Library wines. Only two are a repeat – the 2019 Parsonage Cyrano  and the 2016 Rocco Reserve Syrah.  I walked into the tasting room in September and found Bill Parsons and the staff engaged in an interesting exercise: how does aeration affect the Cyrano.  I got to play! So I am sharing that with you.  And the smoke-tainted Rocco is still an intriguing bottling – one I recognized immediately when playing mystery wine – worthy of an update.

I’ve presented Parsonage to you in several prior posts and won’t repeat about them here (just type “Parsonage” in the search bar to see them all). You can check out their website here:  https://www.parsonagewine.com/. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website, or from the winery direct to me, as usual. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2019 Parsonage Cyrano Red Blend, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $28 (#796) 70% Merlot, 30% Syrah   

Winery Notes: “Our versatile red table wine easily pairs with a variety of different foods. We think it goes especially well with pizza and spaghetti with red sauce. This vintage is full bodied. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Syrah. Rich, ripe and voluptous. The Cyrano is one of our best sellers.”

My Review: Stumbled into a side by side tasting of aerated and un-aerated Cyrano.  Un: Plum and spice on the finish. Aerated: Slightly more ruby color (call me crazy), much richer palate and smoother finish, less spice. Aeration amplified the flavors! September 2022

2019 Parsonage BDL, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $44 (#877)          

Winery Notes: “The BDL (originally named the Bordelais) is our Bordeaux-style blend with a rapturous bouquet of wildflowers, exotic spice, and a broad spectrum of ripe red, blue and dark berries. A lot of complexity and beauty here. The round, vibrant palate shows off the rich berry fruit of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot blend. The fruit and the spice join together at the finish to force me to cry out, DELICIOUS!!!.”

My Review: Pretty ruby in color.  Coca cola on the nose. This is a very tasty vintage of the BDL, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. October 2022

2019 Parsonage Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast AVA, 15% ABV, $48 (#878) 

Winery Notes: “The nose is marked dramatically by the scent of violets and spice wrapped in black cherry compote. The palate flavors are blackberry, black cherry, black currant, and dark plum with just a hint of cassis. This medium-plus-body beauty is harmoniously balanced with ripe and supple tannins showing off on the delightfully lengthy finish.”

My Review: This wine was a very pleasant surprise. It comes from Russell Joyce’s vineyard in Paicines.  Very smooth, juicy and tasty. We took a couple of bottles home!  October 2022

2012 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#879)

Winery Notes: “Our biggest cab has a broad nose of huckleberry, horehound licorice, black cherry, cassis and a hint of pepper.  The palate is fully structured (but not stridently so like a big tannicky Napa cab) with fully ripened tannins that lead to a smooth, rounded finish.”

My Review:   Rich dark ruby in the glass. Blackberry, dark cherry and chocolate on the nose. Smooth dark berries and cedar on the palate. Super delicious. Excellent! August 2022

2012 Parsonage Dario Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#880)

My Review: Inky in the glass. Bouquet of rich, dark jammy fruit, sharp licorice, alternating with sulfur. The fruit and sulfur continue to alternate onto the heavy palate with a tart cherry and tobacco finish.  We had a long discussion about this wine and think we should have decanted it and opened it way earlier! August 2022

2008 Parsonage Dario Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#881)

My Review: Dark in the glass.  Beautiful nose of dark fruit – like cassis. Palate has notes of plum, prune, and cassis with a hint of sulphur. November 2022

2016 Parsonage Rocco Reserve Syrah, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $80 (#89)

Winery Notes: “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit.  The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant.

My Review: Inky. Big nose of dark fruit, alcohol, sweet tobacco and licorice (a bit of barnyard). Tons of rich, jammy, dark fruit cloaked in smoke on the finish. I recognized it right away as a Rocco. Still delicious despite the smoke taint. Probably one of the best 2016 Monterey smoke-tainted wines out there. September 2022

2014 Parsonage Carmelstone Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $125 (#882)

My Review: Cinnamon and berry on the nose. Juicy, smooth, rich palate of intense berries and cinnamon spice. I am so sad we opened both bottles and it is gone. November 2022

2015 Parsonage Xandro Reserve, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $90 (#883) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blend

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass.  Dark berries on the nose. Very delicious warm fruit. Scrumptious! May 2022

Parsonage is open for tastings by reservation only every day – click here for the details.  You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. 

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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A Plentiful Supply of Central Coast Wines Right at Home

I was thumbing through past issues of Wine Spectator on their way to the recycle bin, hunting for articles and reviews of Central Coast wines. One wine kept jumping out at me – Carol Shelton’s Coquille Blanc from Paso Robles.  I remembered I had the 2020 vintage to write up and thought it might be a perfect time also to share the wine we had at Thanksgiving, the 2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir from Mount Harlan in San Benito County. In addition, I’ve had the 2017 Odonata Spiketail (Santa Lucia Highlands) and the 2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera (Carmel Valley) on my list.  The great thing is that all of these wines came from our own wine room. Which is why it is always nice to have a plentiful supply of our very own Central Coast wines right at home!

Today I am presenting 4 Central Coast wines.  Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment, share what wine you had for Thanksgiving dinner,  or simply “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!

2020 Carol Shelton Coquille Blanc, Paso Robles, 13.2% ABV, (#873) $27  34% Grenache Blanc 32% Roussanne 22% Viognier 12% Marsanne

I joined Carol Shelton’s wine club during the pandemic and we have been pleasantly surprised!  We met her ages ago at a Zinfandel Advocates and Producers event in Washington, DC. Over the years, our neighbors would share her wines with me. I really don’t know why it took us so long to become part of Carol’s Bunch!

About This Wine: “We originally created the 2008 version of this wine to celebrate our 10th anniversary as a winery in 2010. With the exotic complexity and food friendliness of a white Rhône-style blend, it is a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. It is the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish, as well as chicken or pork dishes with buttery-creamy sauces. *Coquille is pronounced “ko-keel” and it is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms.” 931 cases produced – sold out!

Winery Notes:  “Enticing nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit…100% barrel fermented, then stirred weekly for 5mos About 10% finished malolactic fermentation…”

My Review:  Classic white Rhône nose, nectarine. Bright acidity balanced by a touch of sweetness. Nice tropical flavors of pineapple and pear on the palate, with a lime twist on the finish. Exceptional for a warm, summer day. September 2022

2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mount Harlan AVA, San Benito County, 13.95% ABV, $79 (#874)

I picked up this wine in 2019 when I took my girlfriends to explore Hollister wines.  We took a picnic lunch and sat outside at one of their picnic benches with our flights of wines in the 90+ degree heat. It was a very special time – we were welcomed so warmly and treated so well by the winery staff.  While I am not a big Pinot Noir fan, this one blew me away.

About This Wine: “Calera’s Mt. Harlan Vineyards are located in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles east of the Monterey Bay. The site was chosen for its limestone soils and ideal climate. At an average elevation of 2,200 feet it is among the highest and coolest vineyard sites in California.” You can read more about Mt. Harlan AVA here: https://www.calwineries.com/explore/regions/san-benito-county/mount-harlan.

Winemaker’s Notes: “Once again, de Villiers has produced one of Calera’s most voluptuous and dark-fruited expressions of Pinot Noir, with alluring aromas of blackberry, cassis and cedary cigar box. On the palate, lush dark berry and black currant flavors are supported by a firm tannic backbone that frames the fruit and carries the wine to a long, energetic finish.” Wine Advocate: 95 points.

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Hard cinnamon candies, cherry juice, pomegranate extract and a touch of balsamic vinegar combine for sharp, nose-tickling aromas on this organically grown wine from pioneering vintner Josh Jensen. The flavor-forward palate explodes with dark fruits, noticeable tannins and solid acidity, showing allspice, Vietnamese coffee and black tea elements.” Matt Kettmann, July 2015

My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Soft berry and dark plum on the nose. Nice juicy palate with some bitter tannins/tobacco on the finish. December 2022

2017 Odonata Spiketail, Hook Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV (#875)  60% Syrah, 40% Grenache

We picked up this 2017 vintage with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod during our first visit to Odonata in 2021 when we got their shortly before closing time.  We revisited with our daughter in 2022 as the single wine tasting stop, which I would highly recommend. Eric hosted us both times and shared much information on the wines, always appreciated. You can learn more at the Odonata website.

Winery Notes: “Offering copious aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, strawberries, licorice and roasted herbs. Bright acidity, beautiful density, and full-bodied opulence.” 120 cases produced.

My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Dark berry jam on the nose. Low key palate of jammy berry flavors – this is one delicious wine. June 2022

2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $50 (normally $75) (#876)

I picked up this wine in August 2021 while doing a birthday wine tasting afternoon with a key Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member.  As I recall, they did not have it open for tasting, but I had recalled really liking this wine in the past.  Their tasting room is small yet very welcoming – I miss their COVID parklet!

About This Wine: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest.  With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.” 462 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Mocha, dark berries and alcohol on the nose. Very cherry on the palate. Crushed cranberries and berries linger on the lively palate. September 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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How Many Monterey AVAs Can I Cover in One Class??

In 2019, I was asked by the Northern Virginia John Marshall Chapter of the American Wine Society to present a class on Monterey wines.  I was informed it would be “more educational” than the short presentation I do for another Washington DC group and it would require a PowerPoint presentation.  Seriously? For something I do as a hobby/volunteer?  I decided to do it – and it was very well received. I leaned heavily on information from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association website – thank you, Kim Stemler! The AWS chapter invited me back this year – and I was finally able to do the class in October.

This time, preparing the materials was much easier – I already had a basic presentation, which I updated with the latest Monterey County agricultural report and some climatic info, including the 2020 fire season.  My goal this time was to cover as many of Monterey County’s AVAs as I could. I managed to include: Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Monterey, San Antonio Valley, San Bernabe, and Santa Lucia Highlands.  Not bad!

For the most part, my stories were very local and wines selected were based on personal relationships I have developed with vintners and tasting room staff. I also needed to live within the event’s budget, so I leaned on industry discounts and donated wines in order to present some others at their full price. For that, I am grateful especially to Bunter Spring, Chesebro, Idle Hour and Pierce Ranch. Thanks to their generosity, I was able to throw in a couple of “extra” wines to the tasting. And I was excited to be able to discuss some wineries for the first time. I’m also indebted to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association for providing me with some large maps and the latest tasting room brochure – always a hit!

The event went well, with great appreciation by the attendees.  Some of the wines I presented were teaching points, such as how a sparkling wine producer makes a Chardonnay or making rose from a smoke taint year.   A few attendees said a couple of the wines didn’t taste like the varietal on the label. This was the case with the Pinot Noir and the Merlot.  While I agree with the Pinot Noir statement (and that’s why this non-Pinot lover liked this wine), perhaps the commenters were thinking of a French Merlot vs. a California Merlot. I am not sure. The bottom line is that they enjoyed and appreciated most of the wines. 

Today I am presenting 10 wines from Monterey County.  Many of them have been presented before, but I thought you might find it interesting to see what I put together.  Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment or “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!

2017 Tassajara Road Viognier, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.4% ABV, $18 (#871)

About This Wine: A Chesebro Wines project, named after their winery’s location. Intended as a same quality, more affordable label.

Winery Notes:  Destemmed, crushed, immediately pressed. Stainless steel for 12 months. Intense tropical and citrus aromas are backed up by a smooth mouthfeel; and long crisp finish.

My Review:  The Virginia crowd, well familiar with Virginia Viogniers really enjoyed this wine. Gardenia on the nose.  Some apple and lime twist on the palate, with a touch of orange blossom and honeysuckle on the finish. February 2022

2019 Diora La Splendeur du Soleil Chardonnay, San Bernabe AVA, Monterey, 14.5% ABV, $20 (Wine #652*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This Diora La Splendeur du Soleil Chardonnay is a beautiful, golden hue, with aromas of toasted oak mingle with light spice notes of cinnamon. The delicate flavors of vanilla bean give way to a lovely, soft and light buttery layer. This reminds one of a rich, yet delicate crème brûlée with a soft, round mouthfeel that will pair beautifully with lobster or sautéed scallops. The light acidity and long finish of this wine will also be a great accompaniment to a variety of dishes.” This wine comes mostly from its San Bernabe estate vineyard, where it gets its tropical notes.  The rest comes from its Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard, providing more of the citrusy balance. 

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Excellently presented aromas of butter, nectarine, warm almond and white flower are delicate but expressive on the nose of this bottling. An immediate acidity races through the palate, lifting the toasty and buttery elements while pairing smartly against the ripe citrus and white flower elements.” Matt Kettmann, December 2021

My Review: This was a big hit with the AWS class. I picked this wine based on Wine Enthusiast’s listing of this wine in its Top 100 Chardonnays – Top Under $25. Viscous and golden in the glass.  Tropical nose with melon and a touch of smoke. Grilled peach and pineapple on the palate with toasted caramel on the finish. This was a very interesting, atypical Chardonnay (in my opinion) which everyone enjoyed.  April 2022

2018 Caraccioli Cellars Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.9% ABV, $35 (#578*)

Winery Notes: “Pale straw, light golden hue. Lemon meringue, honey dew melon along with tropical pineapple, kiwi, lychee and guava. A flirty balance of fruit, delicate white jasmine flower and salty sea. Creamy mouthfeel coupled with structural integrated fruit throughout the sip. Fruit notes reminiscent of green apple, pear, pineapple, candied peach and nectarine. Soft florals balanced with a brined mid palate acidity, mouthwatering finish that showcases the bright fruit.” 94 points, Wine Enthusiast.

My Review: I chose this wine, as the Escolle VIneyard, owned by Caraccioli, is a source of grapes for some of the region’s best Chardonnays. This particular vintage presented a bit tart/acidic for the class – a good example of how a sparkling wine producer might make a Chardonnay. Pale in the glass.  Touch of soft pineapple, a little butter and woodiness on the nose “like the Lone Cypress” or a cut shrub.  Clean, nice, some minerality.  December 2021

2020 Chesebro Gamay Rosé, Arroyo Seco AVA, $19 (#872)

About This Wine: First time they have used Gamay for their rosé instead of Grenache (a wildfire by-product!). Harvested at low alcohol solely for making rosé. Grapes pressed like a white. Juice comes out this color.  Stainless steel.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Beautiful light pink in color. Aromatics of rose petals and citrus combined with a light body and crisp acidity – perfect for pairing with food or just sipping on a hot day.”

My Review:  This wine was great as a teaching point of what to do with grapes affected by the fires of 2020. It is unlike the typical Pinot Noir-based rosés from the region.  Pale pink in the glass. Tart grape bubblegum wrapped in sweetness. March 2022

2019 Idle Hour Clone 667 Pinot Noir, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.2% ABV, $40 (Wine #727)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The crispness and brightness of Bing Cherry followed by the earthy aromas of forest floor and the sweet and savory notes of sassafras and cola. This wine is the most Burgundian Pinot Noir I have ever made. It’s light color and silky tannins are testament to the extra year of aging on the sediment that I gave it. The wine finishes with the fine structure on your tongue of wet stones.” Spent 1.5 years on the sediment. Donated to this class (many thanks, Anna Marie dos Remedios!!)

My Review: The AWS audience said this did not taste like Pinot Noir to them, which is probably why I like this wine.  My notes: Dark ruby, almost purple in the glass. Earth, plum and spice on the nose. So not like a typical, cherry California Pinot Noir. Richer on the palate with dark fruit flavors. April 2022

2017 Pierce Ranch Vineyards Maçon, San Antonio Valley AVA, 14.3% ABV, $32 (#656) 53% Petit Verdot, 30% Tempranillo, 17% Graciano 

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Something of an Ibérique Supérieur, our new Maçon brings together Tempranillo, Graciano and Petit Verdot to form a slightly idiosyncratic blend of Spanish and French varieties. Combining a hint of Iberian aromatics with the earthy, mineral palate reminiscent of a Bordeaux, this is a wine that approaches Old World character while also indulging a touch of experimentation. A floral nose balances itself against a darker midpalate and a solid tannic structure, as notes of violets and dried herbs give way to an underlying earthiness and a savory, vaguely smoky finish.” Donated to this class (many thanks, Pierce Ranch!).

My Review:  The AWS group liked this little wine. This is an intriguing combination of French and Spanish grapes. Dark ruby in color with cedar, mocha and rose petals on the nose. Full bodied, with mocha, cherry, berry and black tea flavors on the palate. Our favorite wine on this tasting day in March 2022

2018 Spring Red Wine “Garagitage”, Highlands Vineyard, Monterey County, 14.64% ABV, $24  76% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker’s Original Notes: “These grapes came from a small vineyard in the hills above Arroyo Seco just north of Carmel Valley Road.  They were harvested, very ripe, on Sep 30 2018.  Upon release, in Spring 2021, ss I write, this wine is a rough and tumble California fruit bomb, with tons of grapey flavor, plenty of alcohol, and no manners.  Maybe, someday, it will grow up.  Meantime, have fun!” 15 months in once used French oak barrels.  76 cases produced.

Winemaker’s Updated Notes: “Big ripe fruity red wine, lotsa alcohol, plenty tannin, enough oak.  Screams “CALIFORNIA!” Gotta love it. Why pay more?”

My Review:  The AWS class thought this wine was fabulous, with some asking what it would be like in 5 years (I invited them to my house to see!). This was my favorite wine from a winery tasting in the Fall 2021 and continues to be a household favorite:  Very dark ruby in the glass. Perfume on the nose, followed by a yummy palate of dark fruit.  We keep drinking this wine – what an incredible wine for a bargain price! October 2021

2018 Boëté Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 14% ABV, $50 (#568)

During one of our visits to the winery over the last couple of years, we got to taste this wine – the first time I know of that they bottled a Merlot as a single varietal – it usually is blended in their popular Cheval Rouge.  They weren’t sure they were going to continue to bottle it alone – we encourage them to do so, *if* supply permits! You can find all their available wines here:  https://www.boetewinery.com/

Winery Notes: “Ruby red in color, aroma notes of dark berries jump out on the nose of this classic medium body Merlot, with black cherries, plum & a hint of cocoa spice on the palate.”

My Review: A couple of people in the AWS class stated this did not taste like a Merlot to them, yet everyone enjoyed it. Purple in the glass. Rich and juicy in the mouth with some solid dark fruits, blackberry and black currant.  Balanced and very smooth on the finish.  This wine is a big hit at my house. October 2021

2018 Spring “Pizza Wine”, Highlands Vineyard, Monterey, 14.96% ABV, $24 (#745) 65% Zinfandel, 35% Syrah

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fruit punchy jammy everyday red. It’s great with red-sauced pasta, too.” 75 cases produced.

My Review:  This was a big hit with the AWS class – and with me – I took all the leftovers home! Very dark in color. Sweet dark fruit on the nose. Jammy dark berries and a touch of alcohol on the palate.  I would like to present it to another class some day. June 2022

2014 Chesebro La Montagne Sauvage, CM Ranch Vineyard, Carmel Valley, $35 (#618*)

Winery Notes: “Grown on our estate in the Upper Carmel Valley’s rocky mountain soils at 1500’ elevation, this Rhone style blend of 80% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre is powerful and rich with aromas of cassis, dark forest berries, scorched earth and spice.  Blockbuster with a long lingering finish.

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Pleasant nose of fresh berries.  Palate of berry jam, eucalyptus and chocolate with red currant and anise flavors on the finish.  Super delicious. My very favorite of all the Chesebro wines. January 2022

Where can you taste these wines?  I wrap up my classes by encouraging attendees to come taste our wines for themselves and walk them through the tasting room maps in the latest brochure which I received from Kim Stemler (again, many thanks!). If you want to find these specific wineries, check out their websites for the latest information.  Here’s where I found these wines, some of which may no longer be available:

Carmel-by-the-Sea: Caraccioli Cellars Tasting Room on Dolores between Ocean and 7th.  Diora does not have a local spot to taste, but wine was purchased at Carmel Belle.

Carmel Valley: Boëté (reservation required – by appointment only), Bunter Spring (tasting room closed, but contact the winemaker to taste his wines, Chesebro (including Tassajara Road), Idle Hour (inside the Big Sur Vineyards tasting room).

Monterey:  Pierce Ranch Vineyards in the Cannery Road area of Monterey.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Hahn: Stellar Location for the Monterey AWS WinedUP Friday!

A few months back, they asked me to find a tasting room for their November WinedUP Friday. I suggested Hahn, as there was a desire to get back to Carmel-By-The-Sea.  I have a relationship through my wine education efforts with the staff at Hahn, yet arranging this event took some convincing.  I was able to work this out with Hahn’s Coby Shammas, who has worked with me in the past, helping me identify some Hahn wines for my classes and arranging a tasting for Decanting Monterey last February, which is posted here: https://decantingmonterey.com/hahn-rolls-out-the-red-carpet-for-decanting-monterey/.

I was recently asked by the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society if I would be willing to serve as an advisor to their board.  I had to feel out what level of commitment this meant – maybe a meeting a month – and to keep doing what I am doing for them.  Which means occasionally using my contacts to find them a venue for their WinedUP Fridays – both an educational and social event. I said ok, and am now officially a Monterey AWS Board Advisor!  It is one small recognition that this blog has some meaning to someone.  If you like what I am writing about, please feel free to comment or “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed! Also always looking for recommendations, although I have yet to run out of material!

OK, back to our event…The Hahn tasting room is a stellar event location.  Nicely decorated with ample indoor and outdoor seating, it easily accommodated our group of about 20 people! The tasting menu that day was perfect, with 2 higher-end Lucienne label wines available for us. Extra hands were on staff to help pour and answer our many questions.  Coby and the other wine presenters did a great job of ensuring we were able to taste all the wines. My final task was to ensure we were all out the door by 6:15 – we made it – with some prodding! I’d call the event a success!

I am presenting 7 Hahn wines today.  Our one common comment on the wines is that Hahn loves its toasty oak.  If you are also a fan, this is the winery for you! Winery vintage and tasting notes come from their website. I encourage you to read more about Hahn here: https://decantingmonterey.com/hahn-inspired-by-the-rhone-blends-of-southern-france/ and on their website.

2017 Hahn Winery Selection Blanc de Noir Brut , Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 11.5% ABV, $50 (#864) 100% Pinot Noir

Vintage Notes: “Our Blanc de Noir, meaning “white of red”, is made of 100% Pinot Noir grapes from our certified sustainable Smith Vineyard. The fruit was harvested by hand in mid-August when sugars were low and acid was beautiful. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures, allowing the wines bright fruit aromas to shine.” 150 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of red cherry, raspberry, cantaloupe and toasted brioche, complemented by hints of apricot and orange zest. Flavors of grapefruit, pear, white peach and toasted bread lead into a long and graceful finish.”

My Review:  Very slight color – a touch dusty pink.  Very dry and crisp, with apple flavors. Kind of like a sophisticated, adult sparkling apple cider – an adult Martinelli’s! November 2022

2021 Hahn Estate Grown Pinot Gris, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $28 (#865)

Vintage Notes: “The winter rainfall was slightly below average, but we were able to compensate with early spring irrigation to fill soil profiles before budbreak. Warm spring temperatures aided vine growth and they were able to reach max canopy height. Summer temperatures heated up and slowed down vine growth as vines transitioned into fruit development. Weather leading into harvest was relatively cool and uneventful, which allowed for gradual ripening of the fruit. It was another remarkable growing season in the Santa Lucia Highlands, resulting in wines with beautiful color, great structure and naturally balanced acidity.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “This elegant wine presents with expressive and complex aromatics of citrus peel, lemon, pineapple and nectarine. Bright flavors of tropical fruit, lemon zest and hints of pear and melon mingle on the mid-palate, rounding out medium-bodied mouthfeel with refreshing acidity and a clean, mineral finish.”

My Review:  Extremely pale in the glass, almost like water. Honeysuckle on the noce and palate.  Pear flavors, with lemon/lime on the finish. November 2022

2018 Hahn Lucienne Lone Oak Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $50 (#866)

Vintage Notes: “Aromas of white melon and ripe citrus are accented with notes of banana and spiced vanilla. Medium-bodied, refined and elegant on the palate, the wine displays flavors of lemon citrus and nectarine, highlighted by vibrant notes of minerality on a medium acidic finish.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of red and black cherries, red currant, and strawberry with notes of violet and rose petals. On the palate, layers of red fruit and fresh berries, rhubarb pie with a touch of warm spices complemented by vanilla notes and integrated oak on a long delicate finish.” 93 points – Vinous

My Review:  Pale golden and viscous in the glass.  Buttered toast on the nose. Crisp, slightly burnt caramel on the palate with lemon curd, coconut, and brioche notes. The oak on this wine is out of balance – all secondary.  If you love a buttery Chardonnay, you will love this wine. November 2022

2019 Hahn Lucienne Smith Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $60 (#867)

Vintage Notes: “Curving along the ridges and valleys of the Santa Lucia Highlands, the Smith Vineyard is Hahn’s highest elevation vineyard, reaching 590 to 1,280 feet above sea level. Originally planted in 1974, Smith is also Hahn’s first estate vineyard, and today its 131 acres are certified sustainable. With rocky well-drained soils and eastern exposures that sit well above the fog line, this is a cool climate site with moderate wind and ample sunshine that contributes to a long growing season.” 1300 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Fragrant aromas of black cherry, red plum, black tea and notes of mint and forest floor. On the palate, flavors of red cherry, black currant and a hint of clove are supported by intriguing layered round tannins, lush mouthfeel and balanced acidity.” 93 points -Vinous.

My Review:  Nice transluscent ruby in the glass, swirls purple. Cherry, subtle berry, very drinkable. Tasty and juicy. The Lucienne is a respectable SLH Pinot Noir. Pick one up if you can! November 2022

2018 Hahn Winery Selection Merlot, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.5% ABV, $30 (#868)

Vintage Notes: “The vintage presented us with half the average rainfall, therefore, irrigation was supplemented in January and February so the vines would awaken to a full soil moisture profile. March gave us our last winter storm and by the end of the month, all blocks had signs of bud break. The early Spring weather was cooler than normal, with periods where the marine layer would leave heavy dew on the leaves and flowers. Summer was followed by mellow temperatures, allowing the fruit to mature and slowly develop complex flavors, color, and depth, resulting in wines with balanced tannic structure, round mouthfeel and soft acidity.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of black cherry and plum, with hints of vanilla and cocoa. Flavors of dark berry, sweet spice, and mocha greet the palate with a luscious mouthfeel, balanced acidity and a smooth finish.”

My Review:  Beautiful ruby in the glass.  Black plum and black cherry with a little baking spice on the nose. Black fruit and spices continue on the palate, smooth and tasty. A little thin, perhaps typical for the varietal. Interesting to find a Merlot from Arroyo Seco! November 2022

2018 Hahn Winery Selection Zinfandel, Lodi AVA, 14.5% ABV, $35 (#869)

Vintage Notes: “The fruit for this Winery Selection Zinfandel is sustainably grown by the Mettler family, our growing partner of more than 20 years that has been farming Zinfandel since the late 1800s. Their vines are over 50 years old and certified sustainable under the highly respected Lodi Rules for Sustainable Farming program. In 2018, these vineyards had a mild early growing season which led to full canopies and good separation of the berries during veraison. Temperatures post veraison were slightly above the usual levels but still allowed for the perfect ripening of the fruit, leading to concentrated flavor and color development.”

Winery Notes:  “Aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and plum with delicate notes of raisins and warm spices. Lush and full-bodied on the palate, the wine bursts with flavors of black fruit and berry accompanied by a touch of vanilla and toasty oak on the finish.”

My Review:  Almost purple in the glass. Toasted marshmallow nose. Rich, dark berries wrapped in tobacco and toast, with anise notes on the finish and a touch of mint. November 2022

2019 Smith & Hook Malbec, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $40 (#870)

Vintage Notes: “The 2019 vintage started out with below-average rainfall causing supplemental irrigations to be applied while the vines started to awaken. There were a few heatwaves getting close to 100 degrees, but the vines bounced back from the stress with no issues. The farthest south of Hahn’s four SLH vineyards, the Hook vineyard is the least affected by the cooling influence of winds from Monterey Bay. Warmer temperatures earlier in the afternoon and consistent sun exposure accelerate ripening and yield rich, opulent flavors.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of loganberry and allspice are followed by hints of lavender, violet, and spring blossom. On the palate, notes of dark fruit with a kiss of olive and minerality, finishing with a touch of toasty cedar and espresso with a long, complex finish.”

My Review:  Dark, inky ruby in color. Toasty caramel and dark fruit on the nose.  A rich delicious palate of dark fruit – perhaos my favorite wine of the evening. I took one of these home! November 2022

Visiting Hahn: Hahn Tasting Rooms are located a their estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands, as well as in Carmel Plaza.  You can find more information and make a reservation here.

Estate: “Immerse yourself in the Santa Lucia Highlands with a visit to our Estate Tasting room. Choose one of our three tasting options or gear up for some adventure on our ATV Tour. Be sure to include time to relax on the deck to enjoy the spectacular view of Smith Vineyard.” Open Thursday-Monday 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. 37700 Foothill Road, Soledad, CA 93960.

Carmel Plaza: “Come visit us in Carmel-by-the-Sea! Our Hahn Family Wines Tasting Room is located in beautiful Carmel Plaza, a popular wine and shopping destination located blocks away from Carmel Beach and the World Famous Pebble Beach Golf Course.” Open daily, 12 p.m. – 6 p.m. Carmel Plaza, Ocean Avenue and Mission Street on the Ground Floor.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Interesting Showing of Central Coast Wines at the Dome Reunion!

A fun little Thanksgiving Post for you all today, including a wine from Los Altos Hills!

When I heard “the Domies” were having their 50th reunion, I was all in.  While I had seen the UC Davis domes over the years, a chance to attend one of their reunions had always eluded me.  My husband was one of about 2 dozen people who work on the project to build the domes back in 1972. The reunion was very well attended, with most of the former hippie-esque originals in attendance.  It was a great weekend of memories and rekindling of old relationships and making new friends. 

We brought a case of theme-appropriate Napa wine made by one of our local vintners – the 2018 Bunter Spring Hippie Syrah, which was enjoyed greatly by everyone.  We have reviewed this wine before (#756) here: https://decantingmonterey.com/bunter-spring-suddenly-closes-tasting-room-wine-pod-jumps-on-chance-to-taste-his-wines/.

My Review: Very dark ruby in color.  A dark cherry nose.  Black cherry on the rich, tasty palate, with a touch of yeastiness on the finish. This is my favorite to date of the Hippie Syrahs! Can’t wait to taste the 2019! June 2022

What I did not really expect to see at this reunion was Central Coast wine! I captured 2 true “Central Coast” wines the first night we were there.

  • 2021 Hitching Post Pinks Dry Rosé Wine, Central Coast
  • 2009 Yáñez-Chin Winery Chardonnay, Los Altos Hills, Santa Clara County

The very first wine served as the Hitching Post Pinks. I was a bit surprised to see it up in Northern California.  I’ve written about Hitching Post wine before.

The second wine was much more obscure. On the first night of the Dome Reunion, I met Luis Yáñez, the engineer who was the senior managing consultant on the Domes construction project and a part-time instructor at UC Davis. He oversaw the design and construction of the utility core elements of the domes:  kitchen, bathroom, plumbing and electrical. He continues to play a role in innovative technologies and solutions.

A very sweet and friendly fellow, Luis also dabbled in wine making for a while, as the owner of the Yáñez-Chin Winery in the Los Altos Hills and brought a case of his award-winning 2009 Chardonnay for us to enjoy. He produced Chardonnay from 2008-2010 from a nearby property where he planted 127 vines of Chardonnay and built an impressive home.

I don’t know much about the Los Altos Hills wine growing region in Santa Clara County.  Wineries nearby include Portola; Thomas Fogarty; Neely Winery; and the new Madsen located in Los Altos Hills. More wineries are just to the south, including historic Murrieta’s Well and Felloms Ranch, a source for grapes by our own Ian Brand.

I did find an article about residents making their own wines in “Our Town: The Official Newsletter of the Town of Los Altos Hills” from June 2017: Los Altos Hills Wine Country.  It indicates that there were 112 vineyards in town at that time!  There is also an annual Vines & Wine Event in Los Altos Hills with dozens of local winemakers!

2021 Hitching Post Pinks Dry Rosé Wine, Central Coast AVA, 13% ABV, $18 (#862)

The Hitching Post Pinks is made by Hartley Osini Vintners, Santa Maria, CA.

Winemaker’s Notes from their website: “A clean and softer version of our typical style of Hitching Post Wines Pinks Dry Rosé. Using our staple blend of 80% Valdiguie from French Camp Vineyards in San Luis Obispo County and 20% Pinot Noir from Quinta del Mar Vineyard.

“Lightly peach colored with an almost rusty hue. Soft tropical notes drawing out slight watermelon rind, and strawberry. An easy sipper for hot days, the acidity gives enough amplitude on the palate to bring out a cactus pear flavor. A fun wine to accompany a cheese and charcuterie board that is balanced and repeatable to drink.”

My Review: Rich pink in color. Aromas typical of a Pinot Noir-based rosé. Very tasty. I would have this again.  The Valdiguié is a nice switch up from our usual Pinot Noir-driven Central Coast rosés! I would buy this. October 2022

2009 Yáñez-Chin Winery Chardonnay, Los Altos Hills, Santa Clara County, 12% ABV, $45 (#863)

Luis brought a case of his 2009 Yáñez-Chin Chardonnay to share with the group. 90 cases were produced. He indicated this wine won third place out of 35 wineries in a Los Altos Hills wine competition, likely the Vines & Wine Event mentioned above, about 5 years ago. At that time, the wine should have sold for about $45, although Luis mostly gave it to his family and friends.

My Review: Amber in color. A little cloudy. Caramel on the palate with fig notes, a touch sweet like a vermouth. I would have liked to taste it 5 years ago! October 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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