Category: Wine Blog/Reviews

Decant Those Rombi Wines: Release Your Full Cachaguan Experience!

Rombi: Distinctive wines demand distinctive labels!

We’ve been trying to get our new friends and COVID wine buddies out to Rombi to taste his incredibly huge and complex Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines.  And to have that special experience which Sal Rombi provides everyone who comes in to taste his wines.  Not only is Sal an expert in winemaking, but also in hospitality.  While we haven’t been able to meet up there, we did take our friends a bottle of the 2014 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, which we were able to compare side by side with a Napa Cab!  Rombi did not disappoint!

In October, my wine class decided to pay homage to the California wineries besieged by fire and smoke damage. I chose the 2016 Rombi Merlot, as that is a full representation of how the Soberanes Fire affected the Carmel Valley wines. My hat is off to those vintners brave enough to bottle their wines from that vintage – Sal is among the very few.

Damage from the 2020 Carmel Fire provided by Kathy Baker of Rombi Wine.

I wrote about Rombi Wine, reviewed earlier vintages, and a bit about Cachagua in this post: Rombi: Bold, Distinctive Fruit Wrapped in Elegance.  His home, winery and estate vineyard, The Carmel Valley Vineyard, are in the heart of Cachagua, where the Carmel Fire recently inflicted damage to so many of our favorite wineries and vineyards.  I had the chance to drive way out to Cachagua in late September:  a narrow, winding road with lots of blind curves, scorched by the fire.  The damage incurred is the kind no one wants to experience.  From what I have heard, most of the wineries out there are “OK.”  I’ll leave it at OK.  Let’s not talk about the 2020 crop. 

There was almost a 40-degree difference in temperature from way out there and my little coastal town. The Carmel Valley’s terrain and climate is ideal for creating rich, full bodied wines; the Bordeaux varietals are favorites here, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comprising more than 70% of the grapes grown in the district.  Much of those grapes are grown in Cachagua.   

2014 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85 (153*)**

This was his 8th year of production.  His fruit from this vineyard is so flavorful, creating wines with up-front berry and cherry flavors. Rombi’s wines are very big and complex – highly recommend decanting to get the full fruit flavors. 

The Rombi 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon stood up to a Napa Cab, in our August tasting.

My Review: Purple in color, chives/wild garlic and raspberry on the nose. Nice legs. Fruit-forward and full-bodied, brimming with delicious brighter fresh fruit. Sour cherries on first sip. Ripe cherry on the palate, with a hint of mint. And a smooth, pleasant lingering cherry and chocolate finish. Good, my Napa Cab fan says. We went back and forth between this wine and one of his favorite Napa cabs – we liked them equally, yet they were so different in flavors.  I’m a huge fan of the Carmel Valley Vineyard’s fruit and think I like this one second best of all his vintages so far (2015 is slightly my favorite with even more jammy, up-front fruit).  August 2020

2016 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $65 (154*)**

The Rombi 2016 Merlot has intense fruit flavors enveloped in smoke from the Soberanes Fire.

My better half remembers discussing this vintage – Rombi’s 10th vintage of Merlot – with Sal in the tasting room. They discussed how this would have been his best Merlot yet had it not been for the smoke. As I mentioned in this post https://decantingmonterey.com/where-theres-fire-theres-more-than-smoke-taint/, wines produced from a vintage of fire and smoke can be appreciated in the context of what they are.

There is a good review of this wine here on Vivino.com which highlights this is a big, meaty Merlot. Not sure I am allowed to reproduce it here.

My Review: Thick, dense garnet in the glass. Intense berry and deep smokey plum on the nose.  A huge wine of intense dark cherry and cassis enveloped in smoke on the palate and finish.  Imagine you are grilling ribs over wood chips, inhaling the smoke from the grill while enjoying a glass of a big Merlot. We decanted this wine, as one always should with a Rombi wine.

The lineup at Rombi’s tasting room.

You can learn more about and purchase his wines online at Rombi Wines.  You can also contact Kathy and Sal at kathy@rombiwines.com  or sal@rombiwines.com for more information about buying wine.  In the aftermath of the Carmel Fire, the tasting room remains closed. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

**I have a standing offer from Sal Rombi to replenish my cellar with any of his wines I review. That’s not why I review his wines. I’ve only “cashed in” that offer once…so far.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

I. Brand & Family: “What we do is simple, without artifice, and we enjoy it.”

I needed a Grenache for my wine class a few weeks ago and found this I. Brand & Family blend in our wine room.

I wrote about I. Brand & Family previously in this post:  https://decantingmonterey.com/ian-brand-discovering-great-vineyards-at-the-edge-of-sensible-farming/ with reviews of some of his P’tit Paysan and La Marea lines.  To add to that is this statement from I. Brand & Family:  “We are not in “wine country” nor do we have trophy wineries. This is farm land, desolate hills, and solitude. What we do is simple, without artifice, and we enjoy it.”

Today I am bringing you one of their wines from the Chalone AVA, which I introduced you to last week here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/cima-collina-transitioning-from-san-antonio-to-the-chalone-ava/. The I. Brand & Family label represents their higher end wines. 

About Chalone Vineyard: “Perched in the remote Gavilan Mountain Range, 1,800 feet above California’s Salinas Valley, this rugged vineyard sits at the base of an extinct volcano bordering the Pinnacles National Park. Chalone Vineyard is one of the few wineries in the U.S. growing grapes in limestone-based soils, the same as in Burgundy…”

2018 I. Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#151*)  72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

The grapes for this I. Brand & Family wine are sourced from the Chalone Vineyard.

My Review: Transluscent cherry in color.  Sweet warm berries on the nose with a big burst of raspberry and cherry on the palate, yet light and refreshing, with subtle tannins enveloped in light caramel on the finish. A little SweeTart with a toasted marshmallow finish. September 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM to order wines or reserve a tasting. 

*Refers to wines tasted while sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Cima Collina: Transitioning from San Antonio to the Chalone AVA!

While hunting down a rosé for a summer wine class, I noticed a 2013 Cima Collina Syrah from Chalone AVA – a Monterey County Syrah for under $25!  Since I am not very familiar with Cima Collina or the Chalone AVA, and I love our Monterey Syrahs, I thought I’d give it a try.  What a pleasant surprise!  I also picked up a 2014 Cima Collina Syrah Tre Gatti Vineyards from the San Antonio AVA – we did a blind tasting of this wine over the weekend. Our friends guessed this was a new world Zinfandel, Syrah, and even one vote for a Petite Sirah.

About the Chalone AVA (from Monterey Vintners & Growers Association):  “The Chalone region is nestled at 1,800 feet in elevation in the central part of the Gavilan Mountain Range – set against the dramatic backdrop of Pinnacles National Monument. This region has a long history of grape growing, dating back to 1919. Here are found the oldest producing vines in Monterey County. Chalone was awarded its own AVA designation in 1982. Because of its elevation in the mountain range, Chalone is truly unique among Monterey County’s appellations…” Read more about the Chalone AVA here.

Map of the Chalone AVA from Monterey Vintners and Growers Association (link above).

About Cima Collina from A Taste of Monterey: “Cima Collina produces artisan wines from small Monterey vineyards. The idea of an “artisan wine” is the partnership with growers who meticulously cultivate vineyards, the insistence on using only carefully chosen fruit, and the creation of wine on a barrel-by-barrel basis.

“The focus on Monterey vineyards is an acknowledgment that this region is now and will continue to produce wines that are interesting, compelling and unique. Many factors conspire to make this a truly gifted region for growing grapes. With the cool maritime climate, well-drained soils and energy of their winemaking colleagues, a dynamic renaissance is currently underway in our region.

“From the rugged Big Sur coastline to the prairie lands of south Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco, every vineyard develops its own set of diverse flavors. It is their passion to discover these local flavors and produce unfined, unfiltered wines that reflect a sense of place. Each of their food-friendly current releases, reflect Winemaker Annette Hoff Danzer’s commitment to authentic artisan winemaking, with dedicated growers, carefully chosen fruit and the creation of wine on a barrel-to-barrel basis.”

Cima Collina has had a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village since 2012.  I learned that Albatross Ridge had moved into that tasting room.  What I didn’t realise at the time  was that Albatross Ridge actually took over both the winery and tasting room in 2019 after the death of one of the prime family members running the business. 

2013 Cima Collina Syrah Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $23 (#84*)

This 2013 Cima Collina Syrah from Chalone is a rich, delicious wine.

Winemaker Notes condensed from the label: The Antle Vineyard is “…on the southeastern edge of the Salinas Valley in a protected, warm, beautiful south-west facing site of decomposed granite/gravelly loam soil…:  This wine is made from a “…“Phelps” clone of Syrah – the oldest clone of Syrah in California…” This wine “…is lush with textrue & fruit but also offers layers of complexity often missed in California Syrah as it furnishes aromas & flavors of licorice, rosemary, white pepper with a seamless, delicious mouthfeel and finish…”

My Review: This was a big, dense wine and reminiscent of an Australian Shiraz.  Very full and smooth on the palate.  Cassis on the finish.  We really liked this wine and bought more of it.  As of 10/2, there was at least one bottle of this vintage left at Bottles n’ Bins in Pacific Grove.  Worth finding this Syrah from the Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA in another vintage. June 2020

2014 Cima Collina Syrah Tre Gatti Vineyards, San Antonio AVA, Montrey County, 13.5% ABV, $23 (#148*)

This 2014 Cima Collina Syrah from San Antonio was quite tart upon opening.

Winemaker Notes from the label:  “Tre Gatti is a carefully managed 5 acre vineyard in the southernmost reaches of Monterey County…planted on…a southern-facing rocky hillside whitewashed with limestone-rich soil.  The head-trained vines are a unique selection of Syrah that produces lower yields and uncommonly small berries in compact clusters.  We vinified these grapes in open-top fermenters then aged the resulting wine in French Oak for 14 months.” 

My Review: Purple in color. Unfiltered.  Deep red fruit and pepper on the nose. Acidic, sour cherry on the palate “like sucking like a cherry Jolly Rancher.” After the tartness dissipated, one of our friends indicated they liked it. I’d say stick with the Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA Syrah from Cima Collina, if you can find it. October 2020

The 2012 vintage of the Cima Collina Syrh Tre Gatti Vineyards was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.  You can find that review here.

 *Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Bunter Spring: “There is no excuse for bad wine.”

We discovered Bunter Spring while wine tasting in Carmel Valley Village.  The tasting room was a bit mysterious – rarely open.  We finally caught them open and had an engaging conversation with Mark Bunter.  An older couple was in the tasting room – through them, we learned the “Spring” in Bunter Spring was a former Washington DC colleague of my husband!  We occasionally catch both Bunter and Spring in the tasting room.  One of our favorite Bunter Spring wine is the “Hippie Red” – 100% Syrah from Napa.  We opened this 2016 Cabernet Franc for Labor Day.  After a few emails with Mark, I discovered this wine is actually from the San Antonio AVA!

The Bunter Spring Tasting Room at 9 Del Fino Place in Carmel Valley Village.

From Bunter Spring Winery:  “Bunter Spring Winery is a family operated “garage” winery in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley. We make small-lot wines for sale to friends on our mailing list and to a few restaurants and wine shops.  Bunter Spring was licensed in 2008, by Mark Bunter, after a brief (thirty years) internship in the wine cellars of people with names like Sebastiani and Mondavi.  It all started  in 1977 at Bill Cadman’s Tulocay Winery, just up the hill from Bunter Spring,  where Mark took on a volunteer  bottling line position.  Mark got interested in winemaking and  started making small batches of wine for fun in the family garage, with free grapes. After helping pick scrounged  “second crop” grapes from nearby vineyards for a few vintages, Dad Arnold (Arnie) helped plant a small vineyard on his own property (evidently, owning a vineyard was deemed the lesser of two evils).  Within fifteen short years, Arnie was ready to let Mark start selling the family Syrah instead of just giving it away.  We don’t rush things at Bunter Spring.”

Bunter Spring 2016 Spring Cabernet Franc, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $25 (#145*)  87% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot

The 2016 Cabernet Franc comes from the San Antonio AVA!

Winemaker’s Notes from the Back Label: “These grapes come from the warmer, southern end of Monterey County.  Aged for eleven months in once used French oak barrels.  Smells and tastes of ripe red cherries, fresh spearmint, green tea, hardwood, and dark chocolate.  We bottled this early to capture its fresh fruit and lively tannins.”

My Review:  Garnet with purple edges in the glass.  Warm nose of blackberry and dark plum.  Tart red fruit on the palate, with a lingering  blackberry and cassis finish.  I like this wine, but I think I am going to really like his 2017 Cabernet Franc from Carmel Valley (86% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon), skipping the Petit Verdot!  September 2020

To buy their wines, check out their current releases and contact Mark by phone or email to order.  They ship within California and to Washington DC and Florida.  Last I checked, their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village had not reopened.  In better times, it is open on the weekends or by appointment. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – includes non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Pierce Ranch: “Eclectic” Varietals from the San Antonio AVA

I wanted to take this opportunity to introduce you to the San Antonio AVA and Pierce Ranch. The San Antonio Valley AVA is not one you can easily drive to – it is tucked away toward the southwestern end of Monterey County, past Arroyo Seco and nestled between the Big Sur coastline and Salinas Valley, with climate more like that of Paso Robles than the rest of the Monterey AVAs.

The San Antonio AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association.

Appelation America has an excellent description of this AVA: “Had the Monterey grape growers and wineries of the 1970s looked at the history of grape growing in the county a little closer, they may well have planted their Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the newly approved (July, 2006) San Antonio Valley AVA, located in the southern extreme of the county. This growing area was one of the first places in the United States to be planted with grapes, as early missionaries recognized that the region’s climate was ideally suited for producing wine. The original mission, San Antonio de Padua, established here in 1771, remains standing to this day, as a symbol of this region’s rich heritage and its significance in the history of California viticulture.”

According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, (my go-to resource for all things Monterey Wines – on Facebook at Monterey Wines), “As one of Monterey County’s warmer AVA’s, San Antonio Valley experiences a large daily degree differential. Warmer weather allows fruit to fully mature while colder night temperatures preserve balanced acids and sugar ratios. This climate lends itself well to many Bordeaux and Rhone Varietals as well as Zinfandel.”

The charming Pierce Ranch Tasting Room in Cannery Row is open for curbside pickup.

Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a small, family-owned operation.  From Pierce Vineyards web page: “Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a small, family-owned operation centered in southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation. We produce limited-run, estate-grown wines with an emphasis on Spanish and Portuguese varieties.” I spoke with their tasting room manager in late September, who informed me that Pierce Ranch received many awards in the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition, including Gold Medal and Best Tempranillo for their 2017 Tempranillo (will be reviewed in a future post), and Silver for the 2017 Touriga, Petite Sirah, and Malbec!

2017 Pierce Ranch Touriga, San Antonio Valley AVA, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#31*)

The 2017 Pierce Ranch Touriga was awarded a Silver Medal at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition!

From the bottle: “Perched in a highland valley at the southern tip of Monterey County, our vineyards, with their wide variation in diurnal temperate and rocky soils, provide an excellent setting for the classic grape varieties of Spain and Portugal. Among these, Touriga – a native of Portugal’s Douro Valley – is undoubtedly one of the most promising. Estate grown in a hilltop block of our Y Ranch Vineyard, the 2017 vintage offers up a lovely, sumptuous wine with solid tannins and truly intriguing aromatics. A limited-run bottling, it was fermented in a single, small lot and aged in French oak for 18 months. Rich black currant and black plum are accompanied by traces of spice and floral notes.” 

My Review:  Plum in color, with a nose of raspberry jam with the sweetness offset by acidity, like a sweet tart with cinnamon on the finish.  The nose carries over to the palate – raspberry and sour cherry with bubble gum, mint and cedar notes; tannins and clove on the lingering finish.  It becomes a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon-like the longer it is open.  This smooth wine is very young – cellar it for a while. 

Pierce Ranch 2017 GSP, San Antonio AVA, 14.9% ABV, $22 (#56*)  62% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah

Instead of a “GSM,” this is a “GSP” – with Petite Sirah instead of Mourvèdre!

From Pierce Vineyards:  “Originating in our vineyards in southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation, our GSP is an estate-grown blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Petite Sirah. Benefiting from the abundant sunlight, rocky calcerous soils, and wide diurnal temperature variation of our region, the 2017 vintage is a versatile, medium-bodied wine full of bright fruit and with a lively, buoyant, character. Handcrafted on a limited scale, its components were fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 15 months. Notes of wild strawberry, cherry, and raspberry are accompanied by traces of florality.”

My Review:  Light in color, this wine has a sweet, bright berry nose, Bing cherry and berry on the palate and a little leather on the finish.  I was hoping for a bigger wine, so I would have preferred less “G” and more “S” and “P.”  For those of you who like a lighter red, this may be the wine for you! May 2020

2015 Pierce Ranch Petite Sirah, San Antonio AVA, 15.8% ABV, $25 (#95*)

I liked this so much, I went back and bought another! The 2017 took Silver at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition!

From Pierce Vineyards, “…Located in the southernmost tip of Monterey County, the newly declared San Antonio Valley appellation is already showing itself to be an ideal region for producing nuanced, complex Petite Sirah. Consisting entirely of fruit sourced from our Y Ranch Vineyard’s rocky, hillside Block 1, this, our 2015 bottling, provides and elegant expression of the variety with excellent depth and solid tannic structure. Produced on a very limited scale, it was fermented in small lots and then aged, unracked, in French oak for 18 months. Aromas and flavors of blueberry, black currant, and black plum combined with a savory component and traces of spice.”

My Review: Very deep purple, dark in color.  Nose of cinnamon rolls.  Blueberry and blackberry on the palate – very smooth with a touch of sweetness – at 15.8% alcohol, it is creeping up on port-like qualities with dark plum and currant flavors.  A very easy drinking Petite Sirah.  A bargain at $25 – I bought this wine again, along with other vintages. July 2020

2016 Pierce Ranch Claret, San Antonio AVA. 13.8%, $28** (#142*) 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petit Verdot, 13% Malbec,  1% Grenache

I enjoyed this Claret over several days – the flavors remained consistent – not overly complex, yet very delicious.

Pierce Ranch Claret Notes: “…Benefiting from the region’s high elevation, rocky soils, and wide variation in diurnal temperature, the 2016 vintage is a nuanced, well-balanced wine with an elegant texture, restrained fruit, and a solid tannic structure. Produced on a very limited scale, its components were fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 18 months. Flavors and aromas of red cherry, black currant, and plum combine with hints of cedar and tobacco leaf.”

My Review: Raspberry and blackberry on the nose.  Raspberry, tart cherry and plum on the palate, with a smooth, licorice finish.  This is a very tasty, everyday Claret.

Check out their Facebook page at Piece Ranch Vineyards for their weekly specials. This might be the chance to get some of their wines before they sell out (such small production means the favorites are gone before we even know they are there).  You can order their wines via Pierce Vineyard Tasting Room  or at (831) 372-8900, and they’ll arrange for curbside pickup or shipping (which is just $5 anywhere in California.) Also, they recently started shipping to DC and Virginia, my friends!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

**This wine was given to me by Pierce Ranch to review. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Morgan: “artisan, vineyard-centric wines” from SLH and Monterey

I belong to a virtual wine class with my Washington DC friends and a recent class was focused on Syrah – from anywhere.  I was at Andronico’s and found this 2018 Morgan Syrah G17 on sale for $23.  I don’t know Morgan wines as well as I should, so I picked one up to try. 

Distilled from Morgan’s website: Dan Morgan Lee was first “…hired as winemaker at Jekel Winery in Monterey County.  After serving his apprenticeship at Jekel, Dan moved up the road to Durney Vineyard where he continued to make Monterey wines…Dan aspired to craft his own label. It was at a meeting of the Monterey County Winegrowers Association that he shared his vision with a banker. In addition to becoming his business advisor, that banker would also become Dan’s wife…

After initial success and many awards, “…Dan eventually turned more of his attention to the Santa Lucia Highlands and single vineyard releases. Dan and Donna invested in their belief in the Highlands with the purchase of the Double L Vineyard in 1996. Today the Double L is one of the best known vineyards in California. Dan’s leadership and expertise in the district led to his being named the first Board President of the newly formed Santa Lucia Highlands’ winegrowers association in 2005.”

2018 Morgan Syrah G17, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $25 (#111*) 94% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 3% Tempranillo

According to Morgan Winery: The Morgan G17 “…is sourced primarily from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco Appellations of Monterey County. Cool to moderate daytime temperatures are mitigated by ocean breezes and cool nights – fostering acidity and balance. Here the fog burns off early, allowing ample sunshine to warm temperatures to the mid 80’s during the summer and fall. The warm air draws cool winds from Monterey Bay in the late afternoon. By night time, temperatures cool to the mid 50’s.”

While Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate in SLH, I was delighted to see this Morgan Syrah made with grapes from these SLH and Arroyo Seco AVA vineyards: Paraiso, Double L, Tondré (SLH AVA); Griva and Ventana (Arroyo Seco AVA). 

This wine is named cleverly after G17, the California route number for River Road and beyond!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This Rhone-style blend has a garnet color, highlighted with purple edges. Blackberry, white pepper, graphite, and hints of smoked meat jump out of the glass. The wine is medium-full bodied with fine grained tannins, offering a mouthful of crème de violette and black fruit. Its weight and balance make it a perfect pairing with anything off the grill.”  It spent 10 months in 20% new French oak. 

Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 94 Points: “Lively aromas of black raspberry jam on French toast, dark hibiscus, tar and lavender show on the cool-climate nose of this bottling, which includes 3% each of Grenache and Tempranillo. The palate is vibrant with flavors of pepper, lavender and lilac, set against the richer black-raspberry and black-plum backdrop.”  Matt Kettmann, July 2020

My Review: Deep ruby in color, with a vibrant nose of dark berries and pepper.  A smooth, intense, deep palate of dark plum and blackberry, almost like an older wine in flavor, with a peppery menthol and leather finish.  To me, the spiciness is more reminiscent of some of the Shiraz wines I used to drink decades ago, a bit of a contrast to other Syrahs I’ve had from the Monterey (Salinas Valley floor), Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVAs.  July 2020

Morgan is open for patio tastings at the Crossroads Shopping Center in Carmel: Thursday – Sunday: 11:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.  For more information on making a tasting reservation, click here. You can find this wine on the winery webpage above or at our local Andronico’s and perhaps elsewhere locally.  You can also find it on www.wine.com and at  K&L Wine Merchants.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Rexford: “Unique Wines Crafted in Santa Cruz, California”

It was 68 degrees on a May afternoon.  For most of you, so what, right?  In our coastal town of Pacific Grove, it was one of the very few days of the year when it was warm enough to sit on our front porch, which never sees the light of day or warmth of the sun.  Our new isolation/Shelter-in-Place thing to do is for all of us – including our dogs – to enjoy a warm afternoon on the front porch, sunk into an old, comfy, rattan couch.  On this day, we played my husband’s favorite isolation game – Guess the Wine.

He brought us each a glass of pale yellow, very chilled wine.  My first guess was a Sauvignon Blanc, but there was way too much pineapple.  Chardonnay was my second guess.  Monterey County was a safe bet, but he wasn’t sure.  I wracked my brain trying to think of whose Chardonnay we had in our house.  Nope. Do they have a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village?  Yes, but we don’t go there often.  Hm…finally I start listing the tasting rooms we visit in order of geography…and finally hit upon Rexford. 

Rolling Vineyards Just South of the Santa Lucia Highlands

We are moving into the Santa Lucia Highland (SLH) AVA, where some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the county is grown at some of the county’s most famous vineyards.  You can feel the power and see the beauty of SLH while driving down the River Road Wine Trail. “SLH” on a label to me means a wine of distinction.  You would expect me to be presenting a Hahn, a Talbot, a Boekenoogen, or something from one of our renowned SLH wineries.  But, since I am presenting you wines we have consumed while Sheltering-in-Place by AVA, I am bringing you a Rexford. 

The Rexford Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village.

The Rexford Winery was founded in 2008.  It is known for its single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, and other premium varieties.  This wine comes from the northern part of the SLH AVA.  Pretty sure we drove right by this vineyard on our April River Road trip.  We got to know Rexford from our many visits to the former White Oak Shopping Center, now home to some of our favorite wineries (we’ve already mentioned Parsonage, Chesebro, and I. Brand in this blog). The Rexford tasting room is closed.

2015 Rexford Winery Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.7% ABV, $30 (#49*)

Winemaker’s Notes: The grapes were crushed and destemmed, then pressed immediately. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie.  “This wine was fermented and aged in French oak barrels then bottled without fining or filtration. It is a rich, full-bodied Chardonnay with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity. In the aroma are hints of oak and tropical fruits and in the taste flavors of citrus and melon.”  Only 98 cases were produced and it sold out quickly. 

The 2015 Rexford Chardonnay is bursting with flavor.

My Review: Light on color, brilliant pineapple on the nose and palate, with a touch of butter.  This higher alcohol Chardonnay is perhaps the biggest, most flavorful one I have ever tasted – just bursting with flavor.  It was refreshing after a long hike and was greatly enjoyed on our front porch on such a warm day. I would buy this again.  May 2020 

Check out Rexford here – their prices are mostly $30-35 per bottle and they are currently (as of 9/11/2020) offering free shipping with the purchase of 3 or more bottles.  Crazy good, eh? 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Ian Brand: Discovering “…great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming”

We were out in the valley one afternoon checking out the tasting rooms and saw something new had moved into the old White Oaks Shopping Center, now primarily a “wine tasting row.”  In my memory, this fellow inside was playing guitar, but maybe he was just playing a record.  He stopped to pour us wine.  We learned he was the “I” of I. Brand – Ian Brand.  We were attracted to his wines, range of varietals and vineyards, his affordable prices, and humorous labels, akin to those at Bonny Doon.  And it is no wonder, as that is where he got his introduction to the wine business – doing an entry-level job at Bonny Doon. 

I. Brand’s Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village

Winemaker Ian Brand has come a long way since those early days in the wine business.  He and his wife Heather now produce over 10,000 cases annually in a warehouse in Salinas under three wine labels: Le P’tit Paysan (French Inspired Wines), La Marea (Spanish Inspired Wines) and I. Brand & Family (California Inspired Wines).  Wine Spectator published this illuminating 2015 Winemaking on the Edge article about Ian Brand, his wines and his family.  And, most significantly, Ian was named the San Francisco Chronicle 2018 Winemaker of the Year.

From I. Brand & Family:  “We did not set out to make these wines. We discovered great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming and decided to bring them to light. The farther we looked, the more we found – remote, challenging vineyards, with hard depleted soils, and intense sunlight tempered only by the coastal breeze. Vineyards capable of producing only the most idiosyncratic wines. Our goal as winemakers is to lightly polish the roughest edges and leave the idiosyncrasy intact. It is here in the back country, filled with individual character, where Le P’tit Paysan comes to life.”

 “La Marea, made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.” (Couer Wine Company)

Another Fun I. Brand Release Party with Exceptional Catering and Great Music, 2018

You can see the influence from his time at Bonny Doon in not only his labels, but also his style of wines – they tend to be flavorful, while lower in alcohol, more in a European style.  And, back in the day when we could gather, his release parties were a fun time: wine, food and live music.  That’s where I was introduced to the music of ¿Qiensave? Quiensave Music.

Today’s post is about his wines we have been drinking since March from the Monterey AVA, specifically. Other regions and labels to follow.

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Chardonnay Jacks Hill Vineyard, Monterey County, 12.5 % ABV, $22, (#139*)

When I was asked to present a Monterey County wine class to the Northern Virginia American Wine Society, I looked far and wide for what I thought would be the best representation of our region while also available for purchase in Washington DC.  I ran out to the tasting room to try the Jacks Hill, declared it a winner, and came home triumphant.  When I shared my great find with my husband, he replied, “Well, of course it’s a great wine – we tasted it at their release party and have it in our wine room.”  :-/ 

The 2017 Jacks Hill Chardonnay comes from Chualar, east of the Salinas. Whole-cluster fermentation, racked in neutral oak barrels, one new French oak barrel and a stainless-steel tank, aged for 5 months. 40% undergoes malolactic fermentation to round out the acids, creating a balanced expression of Chardonnay. 

Jacks Hill was my pick for a Monterey County Wine for my 2019 AWS class.

Wine Enthusiast Review : “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.”92 points, Matt Kettmann, February 2019

My Review: Pale gold in color, refreshingly floral, creamy peach, and pineapple nose.  Full-bodied in flavor with pineapple, citrus and the slight bitterness of lime zest.  A slightly tart wine with none of that over-oaked, buttery or cloying characteristics we often see in a California Chardonnay.  Refreshing and delicious.  August 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#103*)

The 2019 La Marea Albariño has been our wine of choice on these warm, coastal days.

The Corkery Review: “Tasting Notes:  Juicy, Lemon Citrus, Pineapple, Mineral.  This fresh and aromatic Albarino benefits from the cool winds off Monterey Bay and the soils of an ancient sea bed. The wine has beautiful texture and minerality and pairs well with fresh shellfish and grilled fish as well as spicy cuisines, including Indian and Thai.” Wine Enthusiast has rated previous vintages from 90-91 points. 

My Review: We drank this wine on a hot summer day after a Sancerre.  Crisp and clean.  The minerality showed up as a little bitterness “like a Sicilian green olive” and complemented our Mediterranean appetizers.  Perfect for the occasion. July 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#114*)

I needed an Albariño for a wine class in August and pulled this one out of our wine room.  We were familiar with the regular 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard in July, so what the heck is the Alternate Cut?? 

There is not a lot of information out there about the 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard Alternate Cut.  The label says this:  “We pulled aside 70 cases of one of the components of our Kristy Albarino to showcase a different side of what the vineyard and variety can do.  Destemmed and left on the skins two days, and fermented with a ‘pied de cuvee’ yeast harvested in the vine rows, this is a broader, funkier ‘alternate cut.’“

The 2019 La Marea Alternate Cut: a funkier, bolder Albariño.

Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2018 Alternate Cut:  “This experimental twist by Ian Brand shows only slight differences from his original bottling, yet they’re intriguingly fresh accents. Aromas of peach blossom, honeydew rinds and wax lead into a laser-sharp, high-toned palate that focuses on lime and the slightest touch of nectarine on the finish.” 92 points.  Matt Kettmann 12/2019 

My Review: Golden and slightly pink in color. A floral and peachy nose, followed by a full-flavored palate echoing the nose, perhaps slightly sweeter on the palate than a typical Albariño.  The finish is big, yeasty and slightly tart and bitter in a complementary way – slightly lime rind. August 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM.  You can order their wines from the winery or via numerous shops online. As of September 7, 2020: The 2017 Chardonnay is available at Pearson’s Wine and Spirits  in DC and at  K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard is available from the winery and several shops around the US, including K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20 and the Princeton Corkscrew for $22.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut is available from the winery and a few shops in the US, including Union Square Wines in NYC for $28, case price $25 per bottle.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

The Endless Summer: From Iconic Surfing Movie to Beach-Worthy Wines

Did you know that the third Friday of every September is International Grenache Day?  Neither did we.  Our wine class picked Grenache for our September 17th class for that very reason.  Embracing that “One World” spirit, we presented wines from France, Spain, Washington State, Napa and Monterey.  That was kind of cool! I’m deviating from my planned order in honor of International Grenache Day!

We have a story for every wine in our wine room – this one is no exception.  Last Fall, Pacific Grove closed a block of the town for Salud Pacific Grove:  An Evening of Food and Wine.  One long table extended down the street.  Food and wines from our local restaurants and vintners were served family style.  Some of the stores were open and other wines were available for purchase.  That’s where we tried and purchased The Endless Summer red wine.  We didn’t learn its full story until much later. 

Salud Pacific Grove’s dining table stretched down Grand Avenue, with an awesome bay view.

Edible Monterey published this fascinating article that tells the whole story about how The Endless Summer wines came about.  In it, you will read about the making of this iconic surfing movie, learn that the Georis brothers were in the band (The Sandals) that provided the music for the movie, and how Walter Georis has long wanted to open a line of wines embracing the beach culture.  Some quotes from the article:  “We wanted to try something you could have on the beach,” enjoying a free lifestyle, Sanvido says. “It’s a little bit of a lighter style wine, fun and nice and vibrant.”

“Georis notes that the new wines are food friendly, reflective of the local terroir and veer from the ordinary when it comes to varietals—the white is made mostly from Chenin Blanc, the Rose, Syrah, and the red, 100% Grenache. Each varietal is made in small batches of 200-300 cases…Price-wise, at $30 per bottle, the new label falls between the wines made for the acclaimed flagship Georis Winery and Georis’s more casual Cowgirl Winery.”

The Endless Summer Tasting Room will open in the former Georis Tasting Room spaces right behind Corkscrew Cafe at 4 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley Village.

“…Meantime, Georis is especially excited about the beautiful Endless Summer bottles, each engraved with the iconic movie album art, and each made in a different gorgeous color, sealed with synthetic corks in even more hues. In short, a bottle you may not want to toss after enjoying its contents.”  This is so true!  A collector’s item bottle with a bright blue cork, in the case of the Grenache!

The distinctive bottle, flat on one side, is definitely a piece of art – from its beautiful surfing scene etching – right down to its bright blue cork!

2016 The Endless Summer Red Wine, Monterey County 13% ABV, $30 (#137*)

Winemaker’s Notes 2016 Vintage: 100% Grenache. The grapes are from a blend of vineyards across Monterey County. The 2016 was a wine that was affected by the Soberanes Fire. This results in a wine that is subtly and pleasantly smoky, accompanied by blackberry and plum. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated and the finish has lingering smoke. 

Winemaker’s Notes for the 2017 Vintage:  Aromas such as black cherry, strawberry, tobacco and subtle hints of mocha can be found on the nose.  A smooth palate with very subtle tannins leaves wine easy to drink accompanied by great spicy notes such as cinnamon and white pepper.  A medium bodied wine with great texture and complexity.  100% Grenache.  331 cases produced.

My Review: This wine is translucent garnet in appearance. I definitely detected smoked ham on the nose (my better half did not).  The palate was quite juicy and pleasant, but overwhelmed by the lingering smoky finish.  Would love to taste the 2017 and will hang onto this bottle!  September 2020

You can buy The Endless Summer wines on the Georis website or at the Georis Tasting Room. Not sure if The Endless Summer’s Tasting Room is open yet.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Scratch: Edgy, Exciting, Artsy Wines

My early September wine class wanted to do a bubbly.  I did a quick search on line for a Monterey sparkling wine.  As soon as I saw Scratch on the list, I had to have it – I wanted to present this wine!  I ran over to their tasting room in Carmel-By-The-Sea and picked up a bottle.   I have been curious about Scratch, a woman-owned winery by Sabrine Rodems, the winemaker for Wrath since 2006, another favorite.  What’s not to like? 

The Scratch Tasting Room is mid-block on Dolores Between 7th and Ocean.

According to the Scratch Website, “Scratch is a project of Winemaker Sabrine Rodems producing small-lot Riesling, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from Monterey, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s.”  Sabrine Rodems says: “What I love most about Monterey, the Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highland and the Santa Cruz Mountains is that I have four geologically different sites at my fingertips.  Getting to work with bench Pinot Noir and river bed Riesling and Grenach, and Coastal Cabernet makes my work exciting and the wine exciting as well.  Winemaking is the best of both worlds the amalgamation of science and art.”

I wanted to learn more about Sabrine Rodems and quickly saw there are many articles about this locally reknown winemaker.  One of my favorites is this one in Edible Monterey Sabrine Rodems On Exhibit Scratch Coming to Carmel in which she talks about experimenting with Falanghina in clay in the ancient Roman method for Wrath.  She also states her favorite wine growing region is Monterey, due to its long growing season (no pressure!) and coastal climate.  And explains why she likes the name Scratch (no one else had it, edgy, and hard to pin down). 

Edgy Photos in the Scratch Tasting Room.

2018 Scratch Blanc de Blanc Sparkling, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 12.2% ABV, $45 (#136*):

The 2018 Scratch Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut is a crisp and delicious bubbly.

From the Scratch Website : “The excitment has been killing us!!!  Our new baby, Sparkling Blanc de Blanc made from Chardonnay off of San Saba Vineyards, which is the home vineyard of Wrath Wines.  High acid Clone 17 Chardonnay in an Extra Brut style.  Crisp citrus, flowers and a hint of guava with a clean finish and amazing bubbles!” 100% Chardonnay, Methode Champenoise, Extra Brut

Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2017 Vintage: “This wine features a label design by artist Eddie Colla. It shows strong aromas of pear, pineapple and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate displays flavors of lime, lemongrass and green apple, enveloped in an aggressive mousse.”  91 points.  Matt Kettmann, April 2019

My Review:  Pale golden in color, we detected pear notes on the nose, clean and crisp pear on the palate, finishing with lemongrass and lime.   I like a good Brut bubbly, so Extra Brut made it even more special. My fellow classmates did ask, “What does an aggressive mousse taste like?”  I’ll have to ask Matt.  September 2020

Check out their current releases on their website.  Also, you can visit their outdoor tasting room 7 days a week at in the middle of the block of Dolores between Ocean and 7th in Carmel-By-The-Sea – now that is bold!

Scratch has a very cute, well designed outdoor tasting area for guests to safely taste their wines. Photo of tasters published with their permission.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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