When my DC wine class suggested we do a Grüner Veltliner a few weeks ago, my reaction was “A what?” It was explained to me that it is an Austrian varietal. I replied, “I’ll never find an Austrian wine here.” One of my friends suggested that this grape is probably grown in California. Lo and behold! 100 acres are planted right here in Monterey County! I learned Scheid is one of the growers and a quick check of their web page confirmed a current release! I placed my order over the phone and picked up the order at their Carmel-By-The-Sea tasting room.
The Beautiful Scheid Tasting Room in Carmel-By-The-Sea
We’ve been acquainted with Scheid wines for some time. You can’t drive down 101 through the Salinas Valley without seeing acre after acre of Scheid grapes – all the way down to the San Luis Obispo border (at least that’s what it seems!). In fact, according to their website, they own “12 estate vineyards located along a 70-mile stretch of the Salinas Valley.”
Condensed from Scheid Vineyards: Al Scheid was a pioneer in the Monterey wine industry, planting vineyards back in 1972. With investment partners and known as the Monterey Farming Corporation, they sold 100% of their grapes. In the early 1990s, they decided to replant and produce wines under their own label.
From Scheid Vineyards “Grüner Veltliner accounts for approximately one-third of all the wine grapes grown in Austria, and is widely planted in the Czech Republic and Slovakia as well, but just under 100 acres are estimated to be planted in California. We planted our first Grüner vines in 2010 because, truthfully, our winemaking team wanted it. See, they’re wine geeks. And wine geeks love Grüner because it has a wonderful spicy minerality combined with pop rock acidity, it’s über aromatic, and it’s a great wine to pair with food. So their wish was granted (they are a hard team to say ‘no’ to) and 2018 marks our sixth vintage of this delicious varietal…”
Satisfying the curiosity of Scheid’s wine geeks results in a Monterey-style Grüner Veltliner.
The winemaking: “The handpicked grapes were whole cluster pressed and the juice was then lightly pressed. The juice was then cold settled to remove the excess pulp, which prevents the yeast from being stressed and allows for a clean fermentation. The juice was slowly fermented entirely in stainless steel at a very cold temperature to enhance the fruit esters and preserve the varietal aromatics. It was aged in 100% stainless steel for 3 months. The result is a refreshing, fruit-packed wine with a medium-bodied finish bursting with citrus and lively acidity.” 139 cases.
The label says: “The cool climate of our Riverview Vineyard allows for slow ripening and preserves the intense fruit flavors and loads of bright citrus with tropical fruit and honey notes that lead into a clean, crisp finish.” 88 points, Vinous
My Review: The Scheid version of this varietal is reminiscent to me of a Viognier. Magnolia on the nose, honey and lemony/grapefruit on the palate, with a slight lime zest finish. This wine is both sweet and tart. The 14.5% alcohol means this is a bigger, sweeter version of a Grüner Veltliner than you would ever find in Austria. August 2020
You can order Scheid wines directly from their webpage. Their tasting rooms have been open daily for outdoor tasting. Please be sure to call them to confirm. You can make a reservation and get more info here: Visit Scheid
The wine class theme my DC friends picked for our late August virtual class was White Burgundy or unoaked Chardonnay, if we can’t get our hands on the real deal. Since we are limiting our trips out, I hunted in the fridge and found this Arroyo Seco wine from J. Lohr. I had picked up this wine a while back as one of the Wine Spectator’s Top Value California Chardonnays. Perfect. Except my research told me it is oaked. A rule-follower by day, I still like to color outside the lines when I can.
About J. Johr from its website: “Four decades ago, the California Central Coast had not yet emerged as one of North America’s world-class winegrowing regions. With little history or viticultural precedent, planting on the Central Coast was a gamble. One of an handful of early pioneers, Jerry Lohr was among the first to realize the inherent potential of Monterey and Paso Robles for producing high quality grapes and superb wines…After Jerry Lohr’s nearly decade-long search for the right place to plant his first vineyard, he chose a site in Monterey County that was to become the heart of the Arroyo Seco appellation. Jerry planted the winery’s first 280 acres in 1972 in Greenfield.”
The J. Lohr 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay makes Wine Spectator Top Value list!
Winemaker Notes: “The 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay exhibits youthful hues of light straw. The enticing aromas are reminiscent of white peach, apricot, ripe orange, and cocoa, and complemented by the palate flavors of citrus cream and nectarine. The rich texture and balance on the palate from aging sur lie gives way to flavors of vanilla, crème brûlée, and a touch of oak can be found on the long finish.” Kristen Barnhisel, winemaker, white wine. She made a video about this wine: 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay Video. According to the video, it is made in a style that combines both Old World and New World techniques. She used 3 different kinds of oak barrels, each attributing different characteristics to the wine: American (baking spices), Hungarian (a little sweetness), and French (vanilla and mocha). This wine is the number one AVA-labeled Chardonnay in the U.S.! 100% Chardonnay.
Wine Spectator Review: “Plush green apple, pear and white peach flavors are supported by fresh acidity. The well-framed finish offers a flurry of spice details, with hints of honey. Drink now through 2023. 564,000 cases made.” 89 points, Best Value KM
My Review: Pale yellow and almost a green in color, this wine swirls with a beutiful viscosity. A classic Chardonnay nose of oak, butter and hints of pineapple and bitter citrus. Flavor explodes on the palate with intense pineapple and citrus, with butter, honey and vanilla notes. Lingering finish of all those flavors and a touch of bitter citrus. Despite the higher alcohol, it still drinks lean. This wine is overall balanced in flavors – not too oaky or buttery for those who prefer an unoaked Chardonnay and not too overwhelmingly citrus or acidic. August 2020
J. Lohr is not currently open for tastings in either its Paso Robles or San Jose locations. I found this wine in my local grocery store. It should be widely available.
Many wineries source grapes from other vineyards and regions. Some don’t even have their own vineyards and produce amazing wines through innovative sourcing. Parsonage grows Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot on its 7-acre estate vineyard. So where does this Carmel Valley winery get its other varietals – or grapes to supplement in the 2016 Soberanes Fire vintage? From Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco – a great alternative!
From Parsonage Wine: “Parsonage is a boutique, family-run vineyard and winery located in the heart of Carmel Valley. We produce big, bold, red wines at a small scale. We named our wine Parsonage because the Parsonage is where the Parson and his family live. We’d love to meet you on your next Carmel Valley wine tasting and are open Thursdays through Mondays by appointment.”
Inside and Outside the Parsonage Winery, April 2019
I’m presenting three wines which Parsonage sources from the Arroyo Seco AVA: the 2018 Grenache Rosé, the 2016 Grenache-Syrah, and their 2016 Cyrano Red Wine. We tasted these wines with friends as we helped Parsonage test out their reopening operations during the COVID-19 pandemic. Parsonage says they learned a lot from our trial run. 😊
2018 Parsonage Grenache Rosé – Light and Refreshing
From Parsonage Wine: “A perennial warm weather favorite. And a surprise to everyone who thinks they don’t like Rosé! Made with Grenache grapes. Refreshing and dry. We get raspberry and strawberry with back notes of spice and stone fruit. These elements play out on the palate with a delightful fullness and a crisp finish.”
My Review: The grapes for this wine comes from Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane vineyard in Arroyo Seco. Very light in color, almost golden. Peach and apricot – a very light and refreshing Rosé. June 2020
The Parsonage Grenache-Syrah has frequently been a favorite. The Parsonage Village Vineyard is quite small yet powerful. They grow no Grenache and, with the Soberanes fire in the summer of 2016, their Syrah also needed to be sourced from another AVA. Fortunately for us, their long-standing relationship with Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco provided them the capability to produce this vintage from a year that was extremely hard for Carmel Valley wineries. This wine is on their Premium Tasting list – a big wine to start with right off the bat.
This is a classic Southern Rhone wine from Parsonage Wines: “This easy drinker pairs nicely with cheese & crackers. We joke that we should re-name it the “universal donor” even though that isn’t the perfect analogy. But you get the gist of it – this wine seems to be universally loved, no matter what your favorite varietal is. 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah. Fully dry. Medium-bodied but rich. Notes of black, red and blue fruit with a hint of spice on the finish..”
My Review: Dark fruit and a bit of alcohol on the nose. Black tea, chai, white pepper and cinnamon on the palate. A bit brash, but we liked it. For a medium-bodied wine, it is a big one. Must be that 15% alcohol on top of the fruit. I re-tasted this wine in August and detected no brashness right out of the bottle – it was just a yummy wine. I need to get more of this vintage, if possible!! June 2020 and August 2020
Another Parsonage – this time an everyday wine and a favorite. For a long time, this wine was called “Snosrap” (Parsons spelled backwards). The label was a beautiful Mary Ellen Parsons quilt of Cyrano smelling a glass of wine. A marketing expert suggested they simply call this red blend “Cyrano.” Thus, the current naming of this wine.
From Parsonage Wine: “Our versatile red table wine easily pairs with a variety of different foods. We think it goes especially well with pizza and spaghetti with red sauce. This vintage is full bodied. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Syrah. Rich, ripe and voluptous. The Cyrano is one of our best sellers.”
My Review: Slight brownish tint, inky and “Camembert” on the nose. The palate is smooth with bold, intense fruit, with herbal notes. This vintage is particularly delicious. Recommending snapping up some – great wine at a value price.
Once we are on the other side of this fire emergency, you can obtain these wines directly from the winery: They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off. You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Thursdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page:Parsonage Wine.
2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14% ABV, 175 cases produced, List Price: $26, 216 cases produced
We have a fondness for Blair and stop into their tasting room in Carmel Plaza from time to time. We mostly go because it bears the maiden name of a good friend. And, about half the time, we’ve found Jeffrey Blair behind the counter. If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a good place to try. Its wines are getting favorable marks in various competitions, with the 2016 vintage of their Pinot Gris scoring 91 points by Wine Enthusiast.
In general, we really like Arroyo Seco wines, with sandy loam and cobblestones in the dry river beds. Here, cold winds off nearby Monterey Bay (the Blue Grand Canyon™) can make it “wind-blown and numbingly cold” as Mercy Wines describes it, yet somehow perfect growing conditions. We like Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (did I really say that?), Grenache, and Syrah. You will hear more about them as I continue my trek through the Arroyo Seco AVA.
Matt Kettmann wrote an excellent article, The Hidden Treasures of Monterey in Wine Enthusiast which includes a nice writeup about Blair.
2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris
The 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris was Blair’s third Pinot Gris release from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Unfortunately, winemaking notes not readily available, since this is not the current release. Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast, describes it like this: “Lemon cream, honeydew, honeysuckle and toast aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is a citrusy boost to the palate, where orange-sorbet and lemon-spritz flavors arise.”
My Review: We tasted this wine before I was brave enough to do my own tasting notes. I asked my resident wine expert what he thought about the 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris. His response, “I opened the Chardonnay for cooking – it was fine!” Hm. Yes, well, it was a delicious Pinot Gris, always a pleasant change from Chardonnay. We did see it should have been consumed by 2018, yet it was perfectly delicious. March 2020
Check out Blair Wines for their current releases. They have a very nice tasting room in Carmel Plaza (Carmel-By-The-Sea). Their website suggests the tasting room is open every day, but always best to call ahead and confirm: (831) 625-WINE, especially during the fire emergency, much less the pandemic.
We discovered Mercy Vineyards when they opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – they were the very first tasting room as you come into the village. We would often see the Mark Dirickson sitting out front with his lunch and a glass of white wine. All of their wines are from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Why? The dry, cobblestone (“Greenfield Potatoes”) riverbeds of granite and shale and the extreme climate of chilly winds and fog make it an ideal growing area for wine grapes.
The “Greenfield Potatoes” of the Ancient River Channel photo from Mercy Wines website
From Mercy Wines: “Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.” (The vineyards are Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala.)
We were impressed from our first meeting with Mark and winemaker Mike Kohne, who were also running their nascent tasting room. They also were producing a dry Riesling, something not seen much around here. While most of their wines are Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, they had me at Syrah – my favorite Mercy wines. I featured their 2017 Riesling at my Spring 2019 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar (WWCS) class, and their 2016 Syrah in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS seminar. I had planned to presenting their Sauvignon Blanc and the 2016 Syrah at my 2020 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar, which is on hold indefinitely. My DC friends got to consume those wines! And I have to say we are really enjoying their Pinot Noirs – it took the pandemic for me to realize I might actually like Pinot Noir!
The truly sad news is that Mercy Vineyards is now closed. Their website www.mercywines.com is still operational. We love these guys and are sorry to see them go.
Today I am presenting 7 of their wines – some tasted before I was writing my own tasting notes, some for which there is little-to-no published information. 6 of these were tasted during the Shelter in Place order. If you gotta stay home, drink good wine!
Aspiring to make a dry, old-world style Riesling, Mercy sourced Germanic clones from vines set in extremely rocky, low-yielding topsoil.
FromMercy Wines: “Fermented dry, with just the slightest touch of sweetness added back for texture, this “troken” style Riesling showcases aromas of orchard fruit as nectarine and pear notes mingle with honeysuckle, fennel, pollen and minerals in the bouquet.”
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard, 13.8% ABV, $24
I needed a good white to cook with in April and, since we bought this wine for half price, I didn’t feel too bad cooking with it – and even got to enjoy some with my meal. Just like many Mercy wines, this one is from the Zabala Vineyard – man, that place produces great fruit. I’m going to have to lean on my friends to find out which other wineries buy from Zabala or get to know the grower.
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard
From Mercy Wines: “This Sauvignon Blanc is comprised exclusively of the low-yielding, Musque clone (FPS 27) from vines at the Zabala Vineyard. Set in the Arroyo Seco AVA’s ancient river channel the property’s locale features granitic topsoil arrayed on cobblestone beds. Such meager soil further diminishes yields and in concert with strong winds and dense fog combine to provide an environment ideal for compelling fruit.
“Hand-harvested in early September 2017, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were crushed into stainless steel for fermentation. Racked to small mueller, steel barrels the wine aged for 6 months until being bottled on April 26, 2018. Innately racy, the straw colored wine features a bouquet with exotic aromas of melon, pineapple and star fruit, as well as lemon blossom, fresh cut hay and mineral characters. Replete with acidity, this aromatic wine has, due to the clone, a nice weight while remaining bright and refreshing.”
In the spirit of creating some isolation fun, Charlie decided we would taste this wine blind – he poured me a glass and made me guess what it was. This was a big red with a spicy bouquet. Zinfandel!Nope. Joullian Retro Rouge? Nope. He confirmed it was a Monterey wine. Then he said that it is not one of my favorites – which jumped me to Pinot Noir! I guessed based on its heft that it must be the Parsonage Hawk Reserve Pinot Noir! Wrong again – close, but no cigar.
On one of our 3 trips to Mercy in February 2020, the tasting room was boasting it had found these 2012 Pinot Noirs from the Arroyo Seco AVA, tucked away at the winery. They let us taste it and we bought a bunch.
2012 Mercy Pinot Noir Zabala Vineyard
This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, once again a wine hailing from the fabulous Zabala Vineyard. The label describes this wine as follows: “Wind blown, Zabala Vineyard bears the brunt of regional maritime elements. This small-lot Pinot Noir hails from the “South Pointe”, a section of vineyard blocks nearest the seasonal creek. From this rocky locale, Mercy sources “Dijon” clones 115 and 667, as well as a touch of Pommard clone.”
From Mercy Wines: “A barrel selection of nine distinct barrels, this wine showcases the dense, juicy berry-nature of Pinot Noir grown on the Zabala ranch. Aromas of black berries and cherry mingle with notes baking spices, violets and earthy-mineral tones. Richly textured, firm tannins enhance the fruit flavors on the palate and melt away as part of the long finish.”
If I could get my hands on more of this, I would. We had this wine for Sunday night dinner with steak and a flavorful barley risotto. It was a fabulous combo. It is making me re-think my views on Pinot Noir!
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard, 14.4% ABV, $32(Outbreak Wine #120)
About Cedar Lane Vineyard from Mercy Wines: “Located against and somewhat sheltered by a natural bench, a 40-foot palisade of bedrock along its northern border, this 60-acre vineyard is owned by Mark Chesebro and farmed by Michael Griva. Found at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains the sand as well as shale and granite cobblestone topsoil are meager with little nutrients, ultimately helping to diminish yields. The vineyard is planted to multiple varietals, including 7 different clones of Pinot Noir of which Mercy Vineyards sources two (“Pommard” clone 4 and clone 667).”
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 89 points: “Concentrated lavender and incense aromas make for a woody perfume on the nose of this appellation blend, giving lots of character to the core of cherry syrup. The palate shows the same levels of intense incense and purple flowers, which nearly overpowers the cranberry and pomegranate fruits.” Matt Kettmann October 2017
My Review: Beautiful crystalized cork. This wine has a dark robe, slightly brownish. Musty, blackberry with cedar notes on the nose. A palate of blackberry, cherry and a little leather, giving a slightly bitter finish – perhaps a little raisin. This is a very rich and full-bodied Pinot Noir. I do like my wines made from Cedar Lane grapes! August 2020
My Review: We tasted this wine last after a series of big wines – I did not capture good tasting notes. Very dark in color, this wine has lost some of its fruit and beyond its prime. Nevertheless, it was a terrific wine.
According to their website, “Mercy sources three clones from the Zabala family (clone 7 an Aussie Shiraz clone, and two French ENTAV clones 470 and 877). All get co-fermented in small open top bins and ultimately the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (11% new) prior to bottling.”
2012 Mercy Syrah Zabala Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast gave it 93 points with this review: “Ripe and plump blackberries shine through in a showcase of fruit purity, lifted by dried fennel, hot black gravel, peppercorns, toasted sesame and soy. There is tremendous structure and acidity on the sip, with black pepper and black-sesame nuance plus juicy boysenberry character to the midpalate.”
My Review: Almost 4 years later, this wine is drinking beautifully – blackberry and mocha with a touch of spice, full and smooth on the palate. Yum. Tasted March 2020
I presented this wine at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class as a compare and contrast of wines from the same 2016 vintage, different AVAs, to show how the Soberanes Fire affected wines from Carmel Valley but not from the other Monterey County AVAs.
Regarding the 2016 Riverbed Syrah from Mercy Wines: “The progeny of grapevines located in the ancient, dried riverbed corridor of the Arroyo Seco AVA. This wine combines fruit from vines set in meager, nutrient-deficient topsoil which feature cobblestone beds of granite and shale. In addition to the distinct and finite terrain, the riverbed channel location is also is noted for its extreme climate as forceful winds and dense fog persist throughout the growing season. All these factors combine to create a distinct environment that is suited for Rhone varieties.
2016 Mercy Syrah Riverbed – the Last Release and a Great One
“Harvest in late October the grapes were transported to the winery in the early morning. At the winery the fruit was crushed with the ‘must’ racked to small bins for fermentation. Once dry, the wine was pressed off and transferred to neutral (1 and 2 year old) French oak barrels. Ultimately, it was aged 20 months before being bottled. The resulting wine shows aromas of juicy late-summer plum, cherry, lavender, sagebrush and holiday spices.”
My Review: Raspberry, blackberry and cassis on the nose. An explosion of berry and cassis on the palate, and a lingering finish. Smooth and delicious. May 2020
We are going to venture out of Carmel Valley AVA and into another one of my favorites, Arroyo Seco AVA. Back in 2019, we took a family drive down 101 to Greenfield and back up through the valley just so I could see first hand the “Greenfield potatoes” – the big rocks in the vineyard soil – of the Arroyo Seco AVA. We know how to have a good time!
The Monterey County Vintners and Growers says this about the Arroyo Seco AVA: “First planted in 1962, this AVA extends from a steep canyon at its westernmost border, opening to encompass the benches around the Salinas River near the towns of Soledad and Greenfield. Bordeaux grape varieties prosper in the mouth of the canyon, which is protected from wind and warmed by reflective heat generated the surrounding cliffs. The valley floor is much cooler, providing ideal climactic conditions for the Burgundian varietals. Integral to this area’s soils are the “Greenfield Potatoes” – small cobblestones which store and release heat and provide excellent drainage.”
When the White Oak shopping center in Carmel Valley became a row of tasting rooms, we discovered Chesebro wines. We were intrigued by the delicious, white varietals we weren’t so familiar with (Albariño, Vermentino), and impressed by the red blends. Quality, artisan wines at affordable prices.
From the Chesebro Wines Facebook page
The Chesebro tasting room is very charming on the exterior and offers both wine tasting and art on the inside! Sadly, currently closed.
I immediately became a fan of the Chesebro Syrah-driven Rhône blend, La Montagne Sauvage, which I presented several years ago at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar. We became fans of the tasting room staff and visited often when in town. Chesebro has been very helpful to me over the years in my wine education efforts.
From www.chesebrowines.com: “Mark took a crush job at Bernardus Winery under Don Blackburn in the fall of 1994, and ended up staying until the spring of 2005. First working in the cellar, then as Enologist, he eventually became Winemaker in January of 1999. He basically held every production job available at this 50,000 case winery. Mark notes that this was truly his real winemaking education: it taught him not only about winemaking, but also about the extreme importance and impact of farming. He candidly observes that wine is very easy to botch up in the winery, but it can never be better than the raw materials. Respect for this concept became the guiding force in his approach to the production of fine wine.”
Chesebro Wine Lineup from Their Facebook Page.
“With lots of 300 cases or less, and a penchant for offbeat, as well as mainstream varietals, Chesebro’s production may be small, but the effort is prolific. We are passionate about true varietal expression, as well as preserving the unique voice of each vineyard site, from soil to glass. All of our wines are made solely from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVA’s.” They own Cedar Lane vineyard in Arroyo Seco, which has supplied grapes to other wineries, including Mercy and Parsonage.
Chesebro 2012 Las Arenas, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.4% ABV, $25
According to the bottle, “Las Arenas refers to the sandy soils of Cedar Lane Vineyard. This Rhone style blend of 67% Grenache and 33% Syrah, resulting in a wine that combines intense aromatics with smooth texture and bright acidity.” Wine Enthusiast rated the Chesebro 2013 Las Arenas 90 points and the 2011 La Montagne Sauvage (another favorite of mine), 93 points.
The Chesebro Las Arenas is one of my favorite Arroyo Seco wines.
My Review: Blackberry on the nose, followed by plum and cherry with bright acidity on the palate. This wine alternates for me between a smooth finish and a more tannic, woody, leather finish. I presented the 2013 vintage at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar Spring 2019, which everyone loved. The 2015 was well received at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS meeting. Recommend decanting. May 2020
Buying Chesebro Wines: From the Chesebro Wines Facebook page: “Although we are not currently open for tastings, Chesebro wines remains at your disposal for all your Summer sipping wine needs. Contact us directly (831) 238-2618 or email info@chesebrowines.com to place an order for curbside pickup or free local delivery.”
Billowing Smoke from the Carmel Fire Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern
Over this past week, one fire after the other has sparked in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties, turning our sunny blue skies into a creepy gray and orange. Things are not normal. When the River Fire started burning this past Sunday, my first thought was our Santa Lucia Highland and Monterey AVA grapes all the way down the River Road Wine Trail. Alert after alert about residences being evacuated made this much more concerning and real – lives and homes at stake. When the Carmel Fire down east of Cachagua broke out on Tuesday, my worry turned to all my favorite Cachagua vintners – which I had just talked about in this blog. And to my friends who live in the valley. This fire goes well beyond smoke taint as residents, including our vintner friends, are evacuating and their wineries are being threatened of destruction. And then there is the Bonny Doon Fire up in Santa Cruz, with its evacuees sheltering in my little town and its smoke turning our skies so strange, with our sun at times appearing red. These fire threaten more than a single vintage – they threaten residences – including vintners and their families, entire vineyards, wineries, inventory, and years of production. Let us hope they can be contained.
Carmel Valley Smokey Sunset Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern
I had planned to take a moment out of regular wine reviews to talk about what happens when things don’t go right. But I wasn’t expecting them to go so devastatingly badly. This is a retrospective of the impact of fire and smoke of what happened to wine production when the Soberanes fire hit Big Sur in 2016. What happened in 2016 will now look like a blip compared to what I expect will be the damage from these August 2020 fires. I only know of one winery which sustained direct fire damage from the 2016 Soberanes Fire.
The 2016 Soberanes Fire started in July from an illegal campfire, before the grapes were fully mature, but it kept going through October, growing to a 90,000-acre fire. The smoke from this fire was intense throughout the region, but only a single Monterey County AVA suffered the smoke damage – Carmel Valley AVA. I became obsessed with learning more about the impact of this fire and what steps my usual wineries took as a result.
First, I had to discover why just Carmel Valley. After much research, I came up with 2 primary reasons. First, the location, with Carmel Valley just north of the fire. Second, the Monterey Bay’s 2-mile deep Submarine Canyon. The winds off the Monterey Bay are stronger in the other AVAs, as it goes swooping down the Salinas Valley all the way down and throughout even the most southern AVAs. Those winds just lightly creep into Carmel Valley.
What did the Carmel Valley wineries do? Many wineries tossed their fruit, some bottled it anyway to capture the unique flavors, some blended smoke tainted juice with juice from another AVA and changed their maturation techniques, some only offer their smokey wine if you inquire about it in the tasting room and refuse to sell it if you haven’t tasted it – know what you are buying, or they instead sourced grapes from one of the other AVAs.
I presented a class for the Northern Virginia American Wine Society last fall and I challenged them to identify what was so different between two 2016 Syrahs – same vintage, different Monterey AVAs: one from Arroyo Seco and one from Carmel Valley. I didn’t tell them about the fire. There were a lot of guesses around the room, but only Chris Pearmund, the owner/vintner of Pearmund Cellars, guessed right: smoke.
The wines aren’t ruined – they are interesting, different. A high-quality smoke tainted wine can still be a very good wine. And sometimes only a discerning palate will figure out it is smoke taint. They are surprised I can detect it on the nose or palate, saying I am especially sensitive to it – but maybe it is simply because I know it is there. Some wines might taste a little like ham hock, while others might leave a stronger aftertaste of smoke or ash. It doesn’t dissipate over time – it will never truly go away. And you might appreciate the wine because it represents a moment in time when things didn’t go right, yet the winery had the guts to produce it anyway.
As an example, we were consumers of the Bernardus Marinus 2008 because it was special. And Parsonage boldly made their 2016 wines – either sourcing fruit differently, blending it, or maturing it in neutral oak. Sometimes when I taste their 2016 Rocco Reserve Syrah, I notice it more – as if you are at a camp fire, roasting S’Mores. Recently, we decanted the Rocco and barely detected any smoke taint at all – just its usual deliciousness. And smoke taint is barely detectible – sometimes not detectible at all – in their 2016 Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.
Clever winemaking techniques saved these precious 2016 Parsonage Reserves
My advice is be an educated consumer – know which vintage you are drinking and which AVA your grapes are coming from if you are looking at wines from a region affected by fire. Read the reviews, taste before buying if you can, and figure out for yourself if you like it or not. It is all subjective!
The tasting rooms throughout the valley were just recovering from the lack of 2016 wines to pour to guests. They were just starting to roll out their post-fire wines when they were shut down for COVID and some later reopened on an outdoor tasting/curbside pickup basis only. While there is never a good time for a devastating fire like this, I can’t think of a worse time. I believe everything in Carmel Valley Village and River Road down to Arroyo Seco is shut down right now. Give our vintners some space and let’s hope and pray not everything is destroyed.
We saw the big Rombi sign tucked away in the shopping center just off Carmel Valley Road, just behind Boekenoogen Vineyards, and knew we had to stop in. His brother previously owned Joe Rombi’s – a restaurant in our beloved Pacific Grove, where my father-in-law was always treated like he was someone special. Rombi is typically only open on the weekends, so it took us a while to catch him in. We were so delighted finally to meet Sal Rombi, pouring wine for his guests. An amicable fellow, Sal loves sharing his wines and stories with those who walk in the door to learn about his wines. And he always treats us as though we are his special, dearest friends.
Sal Rombi’s grapes are grown on his estate, the Carmel Valley Vineyard, down in Cachagua (pronounced “Cah-Shaw-wah,” Sal reminds me – loosely meaning “hidden waters”). The backs of his elegant bottles say this: “Carmel Valley Vineyard is at the pinnacle of the Carmel Valley Appellation. Located atop the ridge line at an elevation of 1650’ its orientation captures the cooling marine influences nightly. The vineyard is hand tended with sustainable practices. The well drained rocky soil creates balanced vines with limited yields of superior fruit that produce exceptional wine.” You can read more about Sal and Rombi wines in this fun SFGate article: Monterey: Salvatore Rombi, one man winemaker of Carmel Valley.
While many vintners make their wines in a style approachable and drinkable now, Rombi’s wines are the type you definitely want to cellar and decant before drinking. Both his Cabernets and Merlots are huge, complex wines, with his Cabernet Sauvignon referred to as the best in the valley – all from his tiny estate vineyard of about 2 acres. Cachagua’s chalky and sandy soil and its warm days and cool, foggy nights make this a great place for a vineyard.
These wines are great not just due to their location: Sal’s attentive farming and winemaking make them different from any other in the valley. More than half of the Carmel Valley Vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. He matures this wine in French oak barrels, 50% new and 50%, 1-year old, for 18 months. We always have to resist the temptation to open his wines too soon.
Today I am presenting 5 Rombi wines which we have tasted during the Shelter-In-Place Order. Yes, we’ve been busy! Sal has offered to replace the wines I review the next time I see him (whenever that will be!) – very generous of him.
2011 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85
I asked Sal about the 2011 growing season. He indicated it was a good season – one in which “nothing weird” happened. This was also his 5th year of production, so he felt he was really hitting his stride. I told him we really had to let this wine open up before we experienced the delicious, distinctive fruit we remembered from his 2015 vintage. He reminded me that one must always, always decant his wines. And we will, going forward. Rombi = BIG WINES!
My Review: Beautiful deep ruby color. After it opened up, plum and cassis backed by complex tannins on the nose. Cherry and some tartness on the palate, with the acidity balanced out by lovely round, dark berry fruit flavors. It finishes dry, dotted with spearmint and tobacco notes. Next time, we will decant this wine as he recommends! This is an excellent Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – delicious fruit. July 2020
Rombi 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85
My Review: The 2012 is the older, leaner version of the 2015 (below). The nose has mint and herbal notes. Very similar in flavors, with less of the up-front fruit. The palate shows dark fruit, a bit vegetal and spicy, very smooth with some tobacco, tar and licorice on the finish. May 2020
The 2012 and 2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignons
Rombi 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85
Back in March when we were first sheltering on place, I had to (yes, had to) go to the valley to pick up my Rombi allotment. While I was there, Sal gave me a half bottle of his 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon in advance of its release. Nice.
After I tasted this wine, I got Sal on the phone to talk about the 2015 growing season. Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season. Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious wine. That explains why this vintage is so delicious.
My Review: This is a fruit-forward, jammy wine. The 2015 has a lot of fruit up front. Blueberry and cassis with chai notes on the nose. The palate is jammy with cassis and blackberry and a touch of mint and leather. The tannins are surprisingly balanced at this young age. May 2020
2011 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley, 14% ABV, ~$60
Merlot is finally overcoming its Sideways stigma. This Rombi is a huge Merlot, probably unlike any you have tasted. I did ask Sal for winemaker’s notes since nothing is publicly available on this vintage, but he preferred to let the wine speak for itself. Instead, he sent me pictures of an apple pie he was baking, with these notes: “I’m picking up a bit of spice a bit of nutmeg and cinnamon a toasty sweetness the French would say tartartan!” Thanks a lot, Sal.
The 2011 Rombi Merlot definitely wanted to be decanted!
My Review: “The color is a beautiful beet, dark cherry red. A slightly sweet aroma of blackberry and dark plum, with cassis and caramel notes. Complex blackberry flavors jump out of the glass, with medium tannins and bit of tartness on the mid-palate, finishing with a touch of cranberry.” April 2020
2013 Rombi Estate Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $65
I have to eat my words. Recently, I was reading a consumer’s review about Rombi wines indicating a specific wine was no comparison to a Napa. I responded with the point that it is from Carmel Valley and should taste like a Carmel Valley wine. Well, now I stand corrected. Everything about this Merlot stands up to a Napa Merlot – from bouquet to palate to finish.
The 2013 Rombi Merlot stands out as an exceptional vintage!
My Review: Deep ruby, almost purple in color. A rich, brambly high-quality bouquet (kind of Zin-like – my husband looks at me askance). This is a BIG WINE of dense dark berry on the palate, opening to a very smooth and voluptuous wine – like a Napa wine. Touch of tar, mint and cedar on the finish. Fabulous wine. July 2020
Rombi’s Relaxing, Outdoor Tasting Setting
Rombi’s tasting room is located at 1 Center Street, Carmel Valley Village. Sal has created a relaxing, quiet spot to taste his big wines just in front of his tasting room. Open Saturday-Sunday 12-5 p.m. You can learn more about his wines online at Rombi Wines. You can also contact Kathy and Sal at kathy@rombiwines.com or sal@rombiwines.com for more information about tasting or buying wine.
2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $36
Long ago, we joined Silvestri’s wine club because the Parsonage winemaker, Frank, whose wines we adore, also makes their wines. They have a lovely tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea, which was always a nice experience for us when we were in town. We really enjoyed their Syrahs and Barberas. and kept getting Pinot Noir (not my favorite varietal) in our allocations. When my wine class picked Pinot Noir for class this past week, we hunted in our wine room for our last Silvestri and it was a good one!
Alan Silvestri was a famous movie soundtrack composer of great renown, who moved his family to Carmel in 1989. The Silvestri Vineyard was planted in 2000, with its first harvest in 2003. From Silvestri: “Silvestri Vineyards is located approximately 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean up Carmel Valley. This location is the key element in the terroir of this unique site. During the growing season the cool marine influence on one side and the much warmer inland mountains on the other side subject this spot to daily afternoon winds bringing dramatic temperature drops even on the sunniest days. The tight constriction of the valley at this point creates even greater wind velocities here. The vineyards are on benchlands and hillsides several hundred feet above the valley floor further exposing them to the marine onshore flow. Only cooler climate varieties can be expected to ripen here.
“The very rocky soils are based on a soft shale locally referred to as “chalk rock”. Devigorating rootstocks were selected to advance the harvest date and match differing soil conditions within the vineyard. Varieties were also matched to different soil conditions, sun and wind exposures. All varieties are a mix of three to five different clones originally selected at research stations in France. This was done to take advantage of the earlier ripening characteristics of these selections and to provide a palette of flavors from which to create elegant and complex wines…”
Delicious 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir – Bursting with Raspberry and Cherry
Winery Notes for the 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir: “Raspberry and sweet black cherries are the first aromas out of the glass. You then discover hints of vanilla and clove behind them. Roll that around in your mouth and feel the softness that then completes with mild tannins and balancing acidity.” Case production: 838
My Review: The 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir is cherry red and transluscent. Raspberry and cherry with sweet-tart and vanilla notes on the nose. Slightly sweet upon opening, which dissipated as the wine opened up, this wine bursts with cherry and cassis on the palate with a slightly leathery finish. This is a delicious Pinot Noir for the most discerning palate. July 2020
Check out their website for information on how to order. Their tasting room is currently closed.
One thing I love is an excellent Cabernet Franc. The first place I saw it bottled as a single varietal was in Virginia, of all places. When I stumbled onto Boëté, I couldn’t have been happier. These are my favorite Cabernet Francs in all of Monterey County, done in a sophisticated Bordeaux style.
The highly regarded Saunders Vineyard is right next door to Parsonage in Carmel Valley and, at one time, the two wineries shared a tasting room in a quaint shopping center as you head into the valley. They make their big red wines from estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from their 7 acres of grapes.
The Lovely Boëté Winery in Carmel Valley – photo courtesy of Boëté
Some background on Boëté quoted from their website here : “In the early 80’s John Saunders made wine at his Soledad Ranch in the Santa Lucia Highlands. At first making wine was a hobby and when his wines became popular with many of his friends in the restaurant industry, he decided to create a winery. In 1994, John and his wife Jana traded their 250-acre citrus orchard in Soledad California for 15 acres in Carmel Valley; land that had gone uncultivated due to lack of water. The first water well John drilled had gushed enough water to irrigate his vineyard forever. In early spring 1997, they planted their first vineyard on their sun-drenched hillside…
“The result is the Saunders Vineyard and his own label, Boete (Bwah-tay). The secret of the wine, Saunders says, is in the quality of the grapes, and old world wine making techniques that utilize French Oak barrels…Today, more than 6,000 grapevines grow on 7 acres, producing fruit that is widely regarded as some of California’s best.”
WineEnthusiast rated the 2013 Reserve Cabernet Franc Reserve 91 points. “This bottling from a winery whose owners are originally from Brittany shows peppery spice, tart red fruit, rose petal and lava rock scents on the nose. The flavors range widely from white pepper and dill to fresh-pressed strawberry and red plum, with a slight hint of caramel. Varietally pure and very fresh.” Matt Kettmann, July 2017
My Review: While Cabernet Franc is typically blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bordeaux blends, we enjoy this as a single varietal. This one is definitely a bigger Bordeaux-styled Cabernet Franc vs. the leaner Loire Valley Chinon style. We found this wine to be just about perfect – jammy dark fruit on the nose, a rich mouthfeel of deliciousness on the palate, with an ever so slightly darker, just barely cooked fruit on the finish, ever so slightly tannic.
2017 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Franc: Leather, Cherry and Vanilla Bean
WineEnthusiast rated the 2017 wine 91 points: “Deep and dark in the glass, this bottling from a vineyard just a mile east of Carmel Valley village shows rich aromas of black currant yet with a spicy licorice kick. That licorice and dark-berry combination soars on the palate as well, proving both hearty yet still offering the grape’s inherent spice.” Matt Kettmann 7/1/2020
My Review: Bright red in color, we detected smoke, leather and sweetness on the nose. Cherry and vanilla bean on the palate. This is an amazing Cab Franc done in a big California style. My favorite Monterey County Cabernet Franc. This is their current release.
You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here. As of this writing, they are not doing tastings at the winery.
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