Today I am bringing you another “Catchup Monday” – Joullian: Boldly Pioneering in Zinfandel! “Catchup Monday” is my effort to get caught up on some of the many wines we have tried this year – outside of a larger wine tasting event. It was a busy spring and summer!
THE STORY
We’ve been tasting Joullian Vineyards & Winery wines for decades. I was at first intrigued by some of its white blends, as well as its Zinfandels. A wine I really loved – for its complexity, flavor and value – was its Retro Rouge, which I could usually get at a club discount to fit into my East Coast wine class budgets. I previously wrote up the 2014 Retro Rouge here: Winemaker’s Secret Stash Becomes Joullian’s Retro Rouge!
We received today’s wine as a gift from a good friend who has shared both our DC and our coastal lives. While the tasting room is temporarily closed (see below), we do see a few of our local wineries making wine from their grapes, so that is a good thing. And you can buy some of their wines online as well as at A Taste of Monterey. I’m personally interested in checking out their 2015 Hammler Cabernet Sauvignon and their 2018 Retro Rouge, if I ever get the chance.
We just opened this wine one night because we could. And it id not disappoint! In general =, we just don’t produce very big or good Zinfandel around here – in either Monterey or San Benito counties. I don’t want one to taste like a berry pie – I always want more depth. This one stood up to the challenge.
“Carmel Valley is an American Viticultural Area (AVA) located 12 miles inland from the California coastline, and within Monterey County. Due to its elevation among the steep hills of the Santa Lucia Range, Carmel Valley is sheltered from Monterey’s cool maritime fog, allowing for the production of rich, flavorful Bordeaux-style wines. Carmel Valley and the surrounding region are also home to several world class golf courses, a plethora of five-star restaurants and resorts, and countless outdoor actives making it the ideal vacation destination for any wine enthusiast!”
“At Joullian, we focus on estate-crafted, world class wines of complexity, finesse and ageability.” Ridge Watson, Founding Winemaker
“Bordeaux grapes, the inspiration for Joullian Vineyards, led our founders to choose Carmel Valley for its warm, temperate climate and reputation of producing rich and flavorful wines. In order to add further complexity and elegance to the lush flavors of these hillside vineyard wines, we grow multiple clones of each grape variety at different elevations, exposures and soil types. With multiple varietal blocks, each in a slightly different set of growing circumstances, we have the ability to add extra dimension to our wines both in the field as well as in the winery. All Joullian wines receive extended bottle aging, ensuring that upon release the wines have begun to mature and develop their special Carmel Valley character, as well as extra smoothness, complexity and bouquet.”
THE WINE
I have just one wine to present to you today from Joullian. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2015 Joullian Zinfandel, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15.5% ABV, $35 (#1177) 90% Zinfandel, 5% Primitivo, 3% Petit Sirah, 2% (0.5% each) Aleatico, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane, Grenache
Winery Notes: “In 1984 Joullian planted some of Carmel Valley’s first Zinfandel vines. We began with a non-heat-treated Amador County clone selected by Dr. Bioletti in 1917, and have since added pre-prohibition vineyard selections from Lytton Springs, Brandlin (Mt.Veeder), St. Peter’s Church (Cloverdale) and Primitivo-3 (Puglia, Italy). For complexity, we also have small amounts of Petite Sirah (Lytton Springs), plus our Italian field crush varieties: Aleatico, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and Black Grenache. Joullian’s multi-clonal approach in the vineyard continues to reap multidimensional benefits in the winery.
“2015 featured several weeks of 90-95°F heat in late September, early October, so we carefully culled sunburned and raisined fruit in the field, resulting in 40% less tonnage but the final Zin blend is full of perfumed rich black fruit, silky tannins and thanks to a dollop of Cabernet, refreshing acidity.”
Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Blackberry-sauce and cocoa-dust aromas meet with slightly sour herbs and fennel on the nose of this bottling. Ripe blackberry-sorbet flavors are dusted in more dank herbs on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, July 2020
My Review: Dark intense garnet in the glass. Almost purple. Rich mocha, raspberry, blackberry and black pepper spice on the nose, laced with alcohol. Palate bursting with dark fruit and lingering finish. Best Zin in Monterey and San Benito counties. No offense to anyone else. August 2023
The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod finally took a road trip outside Monterey County and headed down to Paso Robles wine country. Today’s theme: Niner: beautiful setting, impressive wines! This is the first in a series of five posts about our wine escapades down south! I previously wrote about Niner here: Niner Wine Estates: Not “Those” ‘Niners – This is About Farming!
This was an exciting adventure for us. Decades ago, when we visited Cambria rather regularly, we explored the local wineries. At that time, they were so informal and fun. So much has changed and grown – and gone more upscale – since we were last there. Nonetheless, we had tons of fun and appreciated the upscale settings, often able to have a delicious lunch or other food pairing with our wines.
We did their Estate Visit reservation: wine tastings and lunch. We were presented a welcome taste of wine and walked around the beautiful gardens until our entire party arrived. We sat outdoor and enjoyed a delicious lunch and guided tasting. It was good, plentiful food and tasty wines. We received thorough information about the wines – thank you! The atmosphere was very welcoming and relaxing – plus our weather was warm and sunny – something deeply appreciated by us coastal dwellers! I would highly recommend this experience!
“Halfway between the two main California metropolises of Los Angeles and San Francisco is Paso Robles Wine Country. Located along California’s famed Central Coast, the Paso Robles winegrape growing region’s climate is perfect for the production of award-winning premium wines. A long growing season of warm days and cool evenings gives rise to vibrantly ripened fruit with dynamic flavor profiles that translate beautifully in your glass of Paso Robles wine.”
The Place: “Paso Robles has a long history as an agricultural community, from ranches dating back to barley, almonds and now vineyards. The region’s unique and diverse climate combined with an equally distinct landscape, both challenge and inspire vineyard growers and winemakers who call this place home.”
Wineries: “Over 200 wineries make up Paso Robles wine country. Here you’ll find everything from laid-back tastings under the cover of ancient oaks to intimate wine experiences amongst barrels nestled in underground caves. Enjoying a glass on horseback or after a zip line adventure isn’t out of the ordinary here. Whether you’re looking to relax or explore, one thing is certain; you’ll leave with lifelong memories and hopefully a few bottles of Paso wine to remind you of your time here.”
“Richard Niner grew up as one of eight children raised on a farm in rural West Virginia. He spent his childhood working on the farm to provide food for his family, and eventually became one of the first in his family to attend college. He graduated from Princeton and then Harvard Business School. He then began a long and respected career building small businesses across a variety of industries, from sunglasses to machine tools.
“He eventually met Pam in New York City, while she was working as a magazine editor after graduating from Smith College in Massachusetts. The pair married and had two children, Andy & Katy.
“In the early 1990s, one of Richard’s ventures introduced him to the beauty of the Central Coast. The people here reminded him of his upbringing in West Virginia, and he saw the high potential for the area to compete with premier wine regions like Napa, which was booming at the time…
“This return to farming was a return to his West Virginia roots, and in his mind one of the ultimate crops to work with. He purchased his first vineyard in 2001 and spent the next decade building out the rest of the business and hiring a team to help run it. Our tasting room & winery opened in Spring of 2010 and remains the heart of our estate.
“Eventually, Andy took over the day-to-day management of the business and we remain family owned and operated today. In the decade since opening our tasting room doors, we have expanded the business to include a restaurant, Chef’s Garden and full roster of creative experiences for your visit.”
THE WINES
I have 8 wines to present to you today from Niner Wine Estates. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. My notes are significantly enhanced by the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2021 Niner Wine Estates Reserve Grenache Blanc, Heart Hill Vineyard, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.7% ABV, $55 (#1169)
Winery Notes: “In 2021 we harvested our Grenache Blanc at the beginning of October, a few weeks later than usual. The long, cool growing season led to perfectly balanced and vibrant fruit. We whole cluster pressed the grapes and fermented them in French oak puncheons. After fermentation, the wine was transferred to an 800-gallon foudre to age for 10 months before bottling in August of 2022. The result is a rich, evolved wine. A clean minerality is balanced by richer flavors of mandarin, honey and toasted graham cracker. Drink now through 2028.”
My Review: Cream soda in color. Pear and honey(suckle) in the nose. Sweet honey viscosity up front followed by a crisp and slightly acidic palate with a grapefruit finish. August 2023
2022 Niner Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc, Jespersen Ranch, Edna Valley AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.2% ABV, $40 (#1170)
Winery Notes: “…The 2022 vintage has juicy acidity, ripe tropical fruit and lemongrass flavors. It’s aromatically stunning, with pineapple, mandarin and kiwi flavors balanced by grassy notes. A fantastic representation of the cool-climate vineyard site…”
My Review: Light lemon in the glass. Tropical freshness on the nose. Delicious palate of pineapple and lemon. Good acidity. August 2023
2021 Niner Wine Estates Pinot Noir, Jespersen Ranch, Edna Valley AVA,San Luis Obispo County, 14.35% ABV, $50 (#1171)
Winery Notes: “Jespersen Ranch’s foggy mornings and coastal breezes create perfect growing conditions for Pinot Noir. After hand-harvesting the grapes, we fermented them in small, stainless steel, open-top tanks. About ¼ of the fermentations included a whole-cluster component, which adds a delicate tannin structure, spice and length to the wine. The 2020 vintage includes only the highest quality, free-run juice aged for 10 months in French Oak barrels. The wine is full of red fruit flavors, with a bright and juicy palate underscored by warming potpourri, spice and clay flavors.”
My Review: Light ruby in the glass. Very cherry on the nose. A raisin-y bitterness floats over the cherry Pinot Noir. I’m not a Pinot Noir fan and am doing my best here. Representative of Central Coast Pinot Noir. August 2023
2019 Niner Wine Estates Grenache, Jespersen Ranch, Edna Valley AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.6% ABV, $65 (#1172)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Grenache is sold out. We farm nine acres of Grenache at Jespersen Ranch where the extreme coastal environment produces a remarkable expression of the varietal. In 2019, a cool spring and summer gave us perfect conditions for a long, slow-growing season. We hand-harvested our Grenache in late October and fermented the grapes in open-top stainless steel tanks. The wine was basket pressed for light extraction and transferred to French Oak barrels. We kept the percentage of new oak barrels low to focus on the fresh, bright fruit flavors. The result is a lively and elegant expression of Grenache. Raspberry, strawberry and white pepper flavors are followed by juicy acidity and fine, cocoa powder-laced tannins.” Wine Enthusiast – 90 points
My Review: Bright purple in glass. Butterscotch and sweet Grenache nose. Raspberry and cranberry on the smooth palate. Lovely. August 2023
2020 Niner Wine Estates Zinfandel, Heart Hill Vineyard, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 15.4% ABV, $45 (#1173)
Winery Notes: “This wine comes from historic, head-trained Zinfandel vines that we inherited when we purchased the property adjacent to Heart Hill Vineyard in 2016. They originally came from the Ueberroth vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles, which was one of the first vineyards in the area. We harvested the grapes on September 25th and fermented them in two stainless-steel tanks, before aging the wine in a combination of French and Hungarian oak barrels for 16 months. This is a lighter, elegant style of Zinfandel with notes of rhubarb and cranberry, complimented by spiced barrel notes. Drink now through 2026.”
My Review: Light garnet in the glass. Vegetal, herbaceous marjoram, vanilla and dirt on the nose. Raspberry and toffee on the palate with a dry, short finish. Pairs well with the spiced green olive. August 2023
2018 Niner Wine Estates GSM, Heart Hill Vineyard, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.45% ABV, $55 (#1174) 41% Syrah, 38% Mourvèdre, 21% Grenache
Winery Notes: “GSM stands for “Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre” and is a moniker for Rhône inspired blends made from the three grapes. We farm a small amount of each at Heart Hill Vineyard and create a cuvée with them each year. In 2018 we harvested each grape independently and fermented them in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, we created the final blend of 41% Syrah, 38% Mourvèdre & 21% Grenache and aged the wine for 17 months in French Oak barrels. We limited the amount of new barrels, and the result is a bright and playful wine with wide, drying tannins and ripe fruit flavors.”
My Review: Rich dark ruby, almost purple in the glass. Intense berries and cotton candy on the nose with red and black fruits and a touch of caramel. Lots of fruit on the palate with a slightly tart finish. We liked this smooth and nicely balanced wine, although some of us wanted it to be “earthier and fatter.” August 2023
Winery Notes: “We farm more Cabernet Sauvignon than anything else. We hand-harvested the grapes, de-stemmed them and fermented and aged the wine in a 2,000-gallon French Oak tank. The 2020 vintage is balanced, vibrant and youthful.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. Vegetal and a hint of traditional Cabernet Sauvignon on the nose. The flavors were a little disjointed in this young wine – recommend cellaring and trying in a couple of years. August 2023
2020 Niner Wine Estates Super Paso, Bootjack Ranch, Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV, $65 (#1176) 56% Petit Verdot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Barbera, 10% Sangiovese, 6% Malbec
2020 Niner Wine Estates Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Bootjack Ranch, Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, % ABV, $75 (#1175) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Winery Notes: “The name “Super Paso” is our tribute to “Super Tuscans” – blends made by Italian winemakers who scorned tradition and added non-indigenous grapes to their blends. The base of this wine is made up of Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Barbera, which we co-fermented in stainless steel and aged in a combination of oak casks, barrels and puncheons. After 14 months, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon were added to the blend. This wine is elegantly balanced and boasts notes of blackberry, violet and cocoa with a long, structured finish. Drink now through 2028.”
My Review: Rich purple in the glass. Caramel on the nose. Rich, dark jammy fruit on the palate. Unique and tasty – our favorite wine of the day. We took some home, but probably not enough! August 2023.
“We are a family-owned and estate winery located in beautiful Paso Robles. Our solar powered tasting room is open daily and we offer wine tastings and a seasonal lunch menu. We accept reservations from 10-3:30pm and our tasting room closes at 5pm.”
Reservations are highly recommended. And I do recommend enjoying their lunch, as well! Their tasting room is located at 2400 Highway 46 West in Paso Robles. You can learn more about their tasting options here.
Today I am bringing you another “Catchup Monday” post: Scheid Vineyards: “Bringing people together to enjoy and savor life.” “Catchup Monday” is my effort to get caught up on some of the many wines we have tried this year – outside of a larger wine tasting event. It was a busy spring and summer!
THE STORY
In June, we opened this wine in our private collection, from a tasting we did at the Scheid Vineyardstasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea.with our daughter and a friend several years ago, before the pandemic. I’m a sucker for a good Petite Sirah and we had taken a couple of these home. While I have presented a couple of Scheid wines in Decanting Monterey, we clearly need to stop by for a full tasting.
“Located at the southern tip of the Salinas Valley, just across the border from San Luis Obispo County, Hames Valley Vineyard is flanked by the Santa Lucia Range to the west and the rugged Gabilan to the east. Sheltered from afternoon winds, Hames Valley has the widest diurnal temperature swing in Monterey County (up to 50°F). It is an ideal locale for big, tannic reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Malbec, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cão.”
You can read more about Hames Valley and all our AVAs here: Monterey County AVAs.
“Al Scheid set his roots in Monterey County in 1972, embracing his role as a pioneer of winegrowing in the region. Al’s outlook has always been that life is an adventure and this attitude served him well as he embarked on the journey of a lifetime. He has always said that if he had planned to build a family wine business, it never would have happened. Instead, he moved forward through his innate entrepreneurial spirit, relationship building, sheer hard work, a healthy dose of courage and as he’s the first to admit, more than a bit of luck.” You can read more about them here.
THE WINES
I have just one wine to present to you today from Scheid Vineyards. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 Scheid Petite Sirah, Hames Valley Vineyard, Hames Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.9% ABV (#1168)
Winery Notes: “There is nothing petite about Petite Sirah. Rather it earned its name from the small size of the berries, which creates a high skin-to-pulp ratio that gives this wine its dark, inky pigmentation and high tannin levels. This workhorse variety produces some of the most powerful reds on earth and can dance along the edge of muscular versus elegant in a way like no other varietal. The trick when making P.S. is to highlight the fruit and tame the tannins. Our 2017 is ultra-ripe, full-bodied and opaque in color, as it should be. The nose is ripe and bold with blackberry jam, plum and cedar aromas. The palate is
fleshy in texture, with excellent depth, firm structure, and a long, mildly tannic finish with a hint of clove.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Licorice and a little barnyard on the nose. Intense, smooth palate of dark fruit and spearmint. We liked this wine very much! June 2023
Carmel-by-the-Sea: SE Corner San Carlos & 7th (831) 626-WINE (9463) “Located one block from Ocean Avenue at San Carlos & 7th in historic Carmel-by-the-Sea, our Tasting Room is a warm and inviting haven to taste an array of Scheid Vineyards wines. Discover our wines, vineyards, and the wonderful diversity of the Monterey growing region while enjoying our estate grown wines.” Hours: Sunday – Thursday 12 pm to 7:00 pm, Friday and Saturday 12 pm to 8:00 pm.
Winery Tasting Room: 1972 Hobson Ave, Greenfield, CA 93927 (831) 386-0316 “Located just off Highway 101 between Greenfield and King City, our “home” location is set among the vineyards, just an hour’s scenic drive from the Monterey Peninsula and easy to find thanks to our 400ft wind turbine. Guests can enjoy our abundance of shaded and spacious outdoor patios while enjoying lawn games and more!” Hours: Daily 11 am to 6 pm.
I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”
We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society(AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us. My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.
The Comanche Tasting Room, located at 412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter. Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds. We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.
We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery. His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse. In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines. We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!
“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards. Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!
“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!
“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)
There is a story about this wine. It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine. They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!
Winery Notes: “N/A.”
My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023
2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)
Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023
2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)
Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”
My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.
2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.
2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache
Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote
wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”
My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish. During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.
2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)
I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023
2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023
2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)
Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”
My Review: Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023
NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane
Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red
cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”
My Review Powered bytèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics. Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel. This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal. Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit. Good depth.” My favorite wine of the day. October 2023
2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38 (#1167)
Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this
single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”
My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Inky purple in color. Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate. A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”
The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. 831-747-2244. Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!
They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!
I’ll be writing a “Catch-Up Monday” post for several weeks to catch up on wines from the summer. These are what I would call “Classic Decanting Monterey Posts” – about a single wine or two we opened and tried. Today I have one wine from Mission Trails Vineyard and one from Morgan Winery.
My “Sometimes Neighbors” invited me over to join their group for a BBQ after they had played a whole lot of golf together. There were a couple of Monterey County wines to try. They are members of A Taste of Monterey, where we have been able to taste wines from some of our smaller producers, including Mission Trails Vineyard. In addition, they offered us a wine from Morgan Winery.
“VECINA is coined from the Spanish word for neighbor. This is our endeavor with the property situated directly southeast of the BOND winery. The beautifully terraced volcanic soil slopes of this property reside in Oakville’s western foothills. The 11-acre site faces due east and is the recipient of cool morning sun. Vecina, which appeared with the 1999 vintage in the inaugural BOND release, is always powerful, intense and savory. Vecina’s other hallmarks are blackberry fruit, with wild forest floor and mineral associated overtones.”
This 100-point wine, with a price of $650 (!!!) per bottle, was not opened on this day. It needs to be cellared for a more appropriate occasion. I hope they will invite me to join them when they do!
“Nearly 230 years ago Franciscan friars planted wine grapes in Monterey County. Although these early vineyards are no longer around, they foretold the story of the thriving grape growing industry of today. To help them navigate from mission to mission, these early missionaries would mark their trails along the California coast with mustard seeds. The mustard plants reveal the trail traveled by those dedicated missionaries. Today, one can still follow the mustard plants along the trail that the missionaries traveled. And along the way, we see vineyards planted beside the California mission trail.
“Today, Monterey County grows over 40 different varieties of wine grapes. A large portion of these varieties are blended, and many of these grapes are sent elsewhere for processing. Rare varieties like Cabernet Franc and Refosco are seldom available to consumers as a stand-alone varietal. For years, only vintners had the pleasure to sample these fine varietal wines in an individual form. Each and every variety grown in Monterey County has something special to express with its color, aroma, and flavor. It is in the spirit of exploration and promotion of the area’s quality that proprietors Ken and Robyn Rauh created Mission Trail Vineyards.”
Monterey Quality
“Mission Trail Vineyards is dedicated to showcasing the promise that Monterey wine country has to offer. Only small lots of hand-crafted wines are produced. The grapes for these wines are selected from choice locations throughout Monterey County. Ken and Robyn believe wine should be a reflection of the true varietal character with little man-made influences. Mission Trail whites; Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc, are refreshing and vibrant. While the reds; Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Grenache, Mertiage, Syrah and Zinfandel, are fruit-forward and robust.”
“With more than thirty years’ experience, Dan Lee and the Morgan label have been synonymous with artisan, vineyard-centric wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey.
“Coming from a small town in California’s Central Valley, Dan Morgan Lee had prepared initially for the study of veterinary medicine at the University of California, Davis. It was late in his college career that he discovered enology satisfied his interest in both science and agriculture. Immediately enrolling in the graduate enology program, Dan completed his studies and was hired as winemaker at Jekel Winery in Monterey County.
“After serving his apprenticeship at Jekel, Dan moved up the road to Durney Vineyard where he continued to make Monterey wines. While making wine full-time for Durney, Dan aspired to craft his own label. It was at a meeting of the Monterey County Winegrowers Association that he shared his vision with a banker. In addition to becoming his business advisor, that banker would also become Dan’s wife.
“In 1982, Dan and Donna Lee opened the doors of Morgan Winery. Their very first Monterey Chardonnay earned a Gold Medal at the LA County Fair and a Platinum Medal from Wine & Spirits Magazine. Since then, Morgan has become one of the Central Coast’s most recognized labels, earning “Winery of the Year” honors from Wine & Spirits in 1996 and from the San Francisco Chronicle in 2003.
“Able to pick and choose fruit sources from around the state, Dan eventually turned more of his attention to the Santa Lucia Highlands and single vineyard releases. Dan and Donna invested in their belief in the Highlands with the purchase of the Double L Vineyard in 1996. Today the Double L is one of the best known vineyards in California. Dan’s leadership and expertise in the district led to his being named the first Board President of the newly formed Santa Lucia Highlands’ winegrowers association in 2005.”
THE WINES
I have just 2 wines to present to you today. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Winery Notes: “Inspired by the powerhouse wines of Tuscany’s “Super Tuscan”, this vintage of Tusca has a twist. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Carmel Valley and Sangiovese from Arroyo Seco and Syrah from Santa Lucia Highlands. These three wines, on their own, were promising, but when brought together in this blend, a very special wine resulted. The Syrah provides acidity dark fruit elements, Cabernet Sauvignon provides the backbone, the tannin structure. While the Sangiovese lends copious amounts of black cherry and cassis fruit varietal characteristics. The Sangiovese brings the brighter fruit of raspberry, wild cherry and hints of exotic spices like nutmeg and dried orange peel. The smooth tannin, silky mouth-feel and lingering finish were achieved by careful blending. Tusca is an excellent example of the beauty and balance that blending can bring to a wine. Said to go with anything from marinara to meatloaf. Also, it is great with anything off the grill. Tusca is a “go to” wine that will delight a wide range of palates.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in the glass. Sweet plum and dark, jammy fruit on the nose. Mellow and rich on the palate with smooth berries. A little tart on the finish with cinnamon stick notes. June 2023
2020 Morgan Twelve Clones Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.8% ABV, $38 (#1157)
Winery Notes: “The grapes were hand sorted in the vineyard and again at the winery before being completely destemmed. Whole berry fermentation started using native and cultured yeasts in small, open top tanks. After fermentation, the wine was transferred to 35% new French oak for nine months of aging. The 2020 Twelve Clones demonstrates the finesse typical of pinot noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Aromas of black cherry, tobacco, and espresso bean are complemented by flavors of black fruit and a hint of sweet and savory spices. Perfectly poised, this medium plus bodied wine is supported by rich tannins. A wonderful accompaniment to roasted chicken and grilled salmon, as well as almost any duck, beef, or lamb preparation.”
My Review: Medium ruby in the glass. Intense cherry on the nose. Cherry and raspberry on a heavier than typical Pinot Noir palate. A touch of smoke on the finish. Complex, delicious, but the finish reminds us this was a 2020 wildfire year. June 2023
This past July, half of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod ventured out to Massa Estate for a tasting. We were impressed how many wines on their tasting menu came from the historic Durney Vineyards! I had not been there for a tasting since they first opened as Massa. This day’s “work” was long overdue! This is the first time I have presented their wines in Decanting Monterey!
As you come into Carmel Valley Village from Highway One, Massa is the first wine tasting room on your left. It has a beautiful blue peacock sign out front and a lovely outdoor garden on the side, perfect for an event or weekend brunch. Its winery out in Cachagua sits on some of the most celebrated and legendary grapes in Monterey County’s history – the Durney Vineyards. When I teach a class about Monterey wines, I tell the story of Durney becoming Heller Estate becoming Massa Estate. Durney’s Cabernet Sauvignon was among the best produced in the region – and many of today’s Massa Estate wines are made from those very same legendary vineyards! I like to talk about the Durney legacy in my wine classes. Participants ask me if this is important – and I say “Yes!”
“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Malbec and Petit Verdot at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet.
“The vineyards are essentially dry-farmed. The roots of the vines descend deep in the loamy, sandy soil in search of the underground “Cachagua” springs. These stressed vines produce outstanding luscious fruit, which are then skillfully crafted into the extraordinary wines. The Cabernets have been described by wine reviewers as “super-rich, with lots of tannin and explosively long finishes”. In addition, the great variation in daily temperatures at the vineyard (which are sometimes 40 degrees in a twenty four hour period) helps to produce these exceptional age-worthy and full-bodied wines.
“The vineyards have been certified 100% organic since 1980s. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are used in the production of the grapes. This certification was granted after three vintages of clean farming although organic practices have been in place since the original plantings by the Durney’s in 1968. The winery itself was certified organic in 2012.
“In 1982 the Carmel Valley Appellation was approved by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol and Tobacco. Heller Estate was a pioneer in developing the viticulture in the area.
“Sculpture gardens have been added to the vineyard property and at the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. The sculptures were created by Toby Heller; an internationally known sculptor of large works. Her piece “The Dancers”, a fifteen-foot high, bronze sculpture overlooking the vineyards, inspired the Heller Estate motto “Dances on Your Palate” as well as the design for the labels.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Massa Estate. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. In general, I found their wines a tad tart for my preferences. Some, I believe, could be held, to show more down the road.
2019 Massa Estate Private Reserve Riesling, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County $29 (#1146)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Massa Estate Riesling offers jasmine blossom, ripe pineapple, and warm golden delicious apples. The palate gives quince flavors, ample acidity with light lemon curd underneath. It finishes with long lasting acidity and warm spices into lemon cream.”
My Review: Pretty, light golden in color. Apple and honeysuckle on the nose. Lemon curd, grapefruit and pineapple on the palate. A little acidic – I would like it creamier. Overall, pretty good! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Chardonnay, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1147)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Chardonnay Reserve suggests bosc pears, nectarine blossom, lightly toasted oak, a hint of creme brulee, a kiss of salty sea air, and beeswax. The palate shows golden delicious apples and light caramelized sugar. It has medium high acidity, a long lingering finish; savory with sweet French oak and candied lemon peel.”
My Review: Pale golden in color. Butter, vanilla and caramel on the nose. Strong flavors on the palate with a finish of sea salt and lemon peel. July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Rose Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1148)
Winery Notes: “Blueberry cobbler, California dry hill coastal shrubs, sun on a granitic slide. Juniper berries, fresh cranberry, and sandalwood on the palate. Lignified stems, dried fruit and lavender finish.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. Slight whiff of barnyard on the nose, followed by the bitterness of Pinot Noir and musty notes on the finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Merlot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1149)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Merlot suggests red plums, bing cherries, allspice, white pepper, and cigar box. The palate is fresh red fleshed apples with a touch of quince. This is really fresh for a merlot. The finish is with white pepper and Chinese five spice. It is light in its feet but structured in a way to support long term aging.”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Dusty leather, cherry and white pepper on the nose. Dry on the palate with a tart cherry finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1150)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon offers cassis and blackberry to greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. Pair this wine with a juicy hamburger topped with sauteed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”
MyReview: “Deep ruby in color. Dark berry jam and tarragon on the nose. Cotton candy, burnt sugar, slightly tart berries and a lot of new oak on the palate. Still too young – hold this wine! July 2023.”
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Petit Verdot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1151)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Petit Verdot offers delicate flavors of spiced plums, rich earth, beautiful dark chocolate, and dried persimmon with a finish of dried cherries and chocolate or cocoa.”
MyReview: Rich dark ruby, red plum on the glass. Warm brown sugar and hints of cherry on the nice nose. Spearmint and bay leaf overlay the dark berry palate. We were intrigued by this wine – one of my favorites of the day. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $40 (#1152)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Bordeaux offers delicate flavors of black plums, cherry compote, cigar wrapper, sweet tobacco leaves, bay laurel, black cherry and toasted coconut. It has medium acidity and finishes with quiet, robust tannins with hints of licorice and sasparilla.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color with a classic fruity nose. Rounder flavors up front, followed by a mouthwatering burst of fruit and a licorice finish. I liked this wine and took some home! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $65 (#1153)
Winery Notes: “Made from 50 year old vines planted by Bill Durney, the Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon offers delicate flavors of plums, salt water, toasted seaweed, sandalwood, and chaparral flowers! The palate is pure fruit, red cherries and French plums, with hints of baking spices and a touch of cinnamon stick underneath. It finishes with the classic mountain cabernet tannins, our lightest, freshest cabernet sauvignon.”
My Review: Garnet in color, with an interesting nose. My notes say floral, soapy, and fruit compote. a cherry bomb on the palate – like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Fruity and not very Cabernet Sauvignon-like. I wanted more from this wine made from some of the most legendary grapes in all of Monterey County. Still too young? July 2023
2017 Massa Estate Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1154)
Winery Notes: “The 2017 Syrah offers hints of blackberry, French plums, white pepper, and floral violet notes. This is a darker, more full-bodied wine that is greeted with a punch of flavor that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in the glass. Raisiny on the nose – almost port-like. The nose follows to the palate, yet very jammy. Reminiscent of a Syrah we recently tasted in Paso Robles, which we liked very much. I’d like to try this one again! July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $68 (#1155)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc offers cypress fronds, plum skin, water over rocks, sandalwood, and forest floor. Robust tannins on finish, mouthcoating really wants rich foods.”
My Review: Light ruby in color. Barnyard on the nose, followed by a light palate of bright fruits. This is another one I would like to try again. July 2023
“The Tasting Room, located in Carmel Valley Village, is a 20 minute drive from Carmel, California and offers the public the opportunity to taste the entire range of impressive award winning Massa Estate & Heller Estate wines. There is a selection of wine accessories and wine related gifts as well as an art gallery.”
69 W. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel Valley, CA 93924 Phone: 831.659.6220
Tasting Room Hours: Saturday – Sunday, 11:00am – 5:00pm “Enjoy our pet-friendly Sculpture Garden!” Current tasting menus are $15 (Classic) and $20 (Premium).
In addition to wine tasting, there are food options at the Massa Tasting Room! Local chef Michael Jones is on site preparing food! Food Hours are Saturdays: 11:00 am – 2:00 pm (appetizers) and Sundays: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm (brunch). His phone number for reservations is 831-659-5100. Please be sure to call to check his schedule and make a reservation!
Last week I brought you Part 1 of my coverage of the August 12thArroyo Seco Winegrowers celebration here: Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers. Please take a look at that write-up for more information about the Arroyo Seco AVA and the event. Today’s post brings you the rest of the wineries and their wines: Martin Ranch Winery, Chesebro, Bernardus, Blair, J Lohr and Joyce Wine Co. I am grateful to have been able to attend this festive occasion, surrounded by the vineyards we were there to celebrate.
THE WINES
As I indicated last week, despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal. I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
This was the first time I had encountered Martin Ranch Winery at one of our local wine events – and I was glad I did. Looking at the range of wines they make, I see a road trip to their Gilroy winery and tasting room in my future!
From their website: “For nearly three decades, winemakers Thérèse and Dan Martin have crafted wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The rich history of this husband and wife team is reflected in each bottle of wine, and everything they do…
“In 1993, Thérèse and Dan Martin began planting rows of Cabernet Sauvignon along their 17 acre property, with the intent of selling their fruit to local wineries. Four years later, Thérèse and Dan got the itch to give winemaking a go, and by 2002 they released their first commercial crush of 625 cases.
“That same year, the Martins decided it was time to turn their dream of building a community around a winery into a reality. They embarked on the monumental task of building a commercial winery, including a garden area, pond dock, tasting rooms, barrel room, and production facilities.
“Today our vineyard has rows of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Noir, in addition to the original Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Each year we produce wine under our three award-winning labels: J.D. Hurley, Soulmate, and Thérèse Vineyards.”
2020 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Grenache Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $35 (#1135)
88 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Soft nectarine, peach and toasted-oak aromas are cut by Meyer lemon on the nose of this bottling. Ripe apricot and pineapple flavors show on the juicy palate, with oak adding spice.” Matt Kettmann, November 2022
My Notes: My only notes were that this was a little sweet – and spicy!
2018 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Pinot Noir, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $45 (#1136)
91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Toasty oak aromas meet with dark-cherry compote on the nose of this bottling. The oak is also strong on the palate, but in pleasant ways, warming up the cherry-compote, anise and clove flavors, as vanilla lingers into the finish.” Matt Kettmann
My Notes: Someone told us we should go back and try this wine right as we were heading out for the day. It was quite good and made in a style I prefer – a richer Pinot Noir.
I’ve been presenting Chesebro Wines in my DC-area wine classes since my very first one, long before we moved here. I admire Chesebro for their quality and affordability – they are easy to fit into the wine class budgets and are a big hit with the class attendees. I’ve been quoting Mark Chesebro in my presentations for years, yet I had never met the man until this Arroyo Seco celebration! It was great to spend a few minutes with him at long last. Alex Lallos, has been a great supporter of my wine education efforts over the years.
We tasted several new releases at their table, some of which I already covered in this recent post, so I only have one of their wines in this article.
2022 Chesebro Grenache Rosé, Cedar Lane, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $23 (#1137)
Winery Notes: “For lovers of our Grenache rosé, you are in for a real treat. Provençal in style, beautiful light pink in color and bright profile. Aromas of fresh picked strawberry, grapefruit skin and raspberry essence. Perfect for a warm poolside or beach afternoon.”
My Notes: I presented the 2020 vintage of this wine in one of my DC-area classes and I like this new release even better!
2022 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1138)
Winery Notes: “Our 2022 Signature Griva bottling has aromas of lime zest and grapefruit, accented by mineral nuances. The palate exhibits rich, crisp, tropical fruit flavors with notes of guava, lime peel, blue agave and grapefruit, supported by a refreshing acidity.” 90 points – Wine Enthusiast
We rarely catch Jeffrey Blair himself in his Carmel Plaza tasting room anymore, so it was great to see him here. I’ve written about Blair’s award-winning wines before, with my most recent post here: Blair: It’s All About Delfina’s Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco!I enjoyed trying some of his new releases.
90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of orange blossom, kumquat and jasmine show on the nose of this bottling. The palate keeps the wine quite dry, offering wet stone balance to the plumeria and Tuscan melon flavors.” Matt Kettmann
My Review: Sweet Grilled pineapple palate carried over the pineapple with a raw pineapple acidity/bitterness on finish. I liked this wine. August 2023
2018 Blair Estate Chardonnay, Roger Rose Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#1140)
91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of butter, toasted Marcona almond, crushed rock and light truffle show on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. Lemon-butter-glazed-toast flavors meet with sea salt and nuts on the palate, where a rocky edge adds complexity.” Matt Kettmann, April 2022
2021 Blair Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.1% ABV, $25 (#1141)
Winery Notes: “…This Blair Rosé of Pinot Noir is a serious “pink” wine. Our goal was an Old World style that would be bright and refreshing. But also one that would be a versatile companion to a wide variety of foods. The nose and palate is full of ripe strawberry, cherry and watermelon. It finishes crisp and dry. Serve well chilled with a Salade Nicoise or an herbed salmon steak fresh off the grill.” 88 points – Wine Enthusiast
My Notes: Hey this is good tasting wine! Time to get back to Blair for a full tasting!
We had the chance at the Monterey Trade event the previous week (see this post) to meet J. Lohr’s Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wines. She wrote the winery notes below. While they produce a million cases of wine every year, we won’t see most of these wines from Arroyo Seco in the supermarkets. 30% of their production is Arroyo Seco whites. 70% of their production comes from Paso Robles. They have tasting rooms in San Jose and Paso Robles. Check out their website for more information.
2022 J. Lohr Pinot Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $35 (#1142)
Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Pinot Blanc displays aromas of yellow rose, apple, and pear. Complex flavors of ripe melon and Meyer lemon emerge, with a creamy texture and a long finish from fermentation and aging in the large vessels.”
My Notes: I liked this wine.
2022 J. Lohr Sauvignon Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1143)
Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc presents aromas of honeysuckle, grapefruit, and a hint of fig. Bright flavors of ripe key lime, vanilla, Meyer lemon, and tarragon take center stage, with a rich palate texture and long finish.”
My Notes: I found this wine a bit tart.
J. Lohr Bay Mist White Riesling, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1144)
Winery Notes: “Fun and casual. Unoaked and just slightly sweet. My goes-with-anything, toes-in-the-sand wine.”
My Notes: What a pretty bottling for this wine – reflecting the Monterey Bay and the idea this would be a great beach wine. This off-dry Riesling was a tad sweet for my preferences.
We finally make it to our host for the event – Joyce Wine Co.They have a beautiful property in the heart of Arroyo Seco, surrounded by vineyards. Way too many wines to taste for the end of our day, but we did our best. I look forward to going back there to taste again – after the fall winemaking season calms down. We have been to their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village several times. I last wrote them up here: Joyce: Exploring the Endless Potential of Monterey’s Coastal Terroir.
Winery Notes: “Vibrant and pronounced, a nose of peach and gooseberry open up to a palate of citrus and spring time earthiness.”
2022 Joyce Rosé, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1146)
Winery Notes: “A savory-leaning nose of tomato water and oyster shell sets the tone for a lightly-fruited, pale pink thirst quencher with minerality that will make you drool.”
My Notes: Perfume on the nose and a tartness on the palate.
2022 Joyce Albariño, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1147)
Winery Notes: “Warm-weather, tropical fruits lead the nose followed by white flowers on an ocean breeze. Bright and refreshing, supple texture and minerality on the palate.”
Winery Notes: “This Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend yields concentrated flavor, high acidity and strong tannins–all elements that suggest this wine can be cellared for many years.”
My Notes: I detected some of that “Central Coast funk” on the nose – that funky aroma or flavor I often get with Central Coast Syrahs. The plate was spicy and quite tasty! August 2023
2021 Joyce Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#1149)
Winery Notes: “A classic representation of the varietal with noticeable, dusty tannin, dark fruits and earthy, smoky, woody notes hitting throughout.”
The fruit comes from Joyce vineyards, plus Zabala plus Cedar Lane – sounds like a winning combo!
My Notes: Dark ruby in glass. Grass on the nose. Relatively light on palate. August 2023
THE TASTING ROOMS
Because there were so many wineries present at this event, I recommend checking their individual websites for information on where and when to taste their wines. You can taste Martin Ranch wines at their winery in Gilroy. Chesebro, Bernardus and Joyce tasting rooms are all located in Carmel Valley Village. Blair’s is in Carmel-by-the-Sea. J Lohr has two tasting locations: San Jose and Paso Robles.
On August 12th, the Arroyo Seco Winegrowers celebrated their 40th Anniversary at the Joyce Winery in Soledad. This was mostly the vineyard owners and the wineries celebrating their great partnership in making terrific wines, putting the Arroyo Seco AVA on the map. I asked my friends at Chesebro Wines if they could get us in – thank you, Alex Lallos! This post is Part 1 – be sure to read next week’s post for Part 2!
For us coastal dwellers, it was a pretty long drive to get down to Soledad, but well worth it! It was a beautiful, warm day. The event was relatively small, with about 20 wineries offering tastes along with gourmet appetizers by Michael Jones and others. We had to be very careful with our tastes due to the drive home. We stuck to our practice of sharing tastes and dumping the rest.
The setting was a wine lover’s dream. Joyce has a beautiful facility nestled in the heart of the Arroyo Seco AVA, surrounded by vineyards. The event took place inside its barrel room, keeping us cool from the sun and heat outside. It was a casual, low-key event with happy vintners and farmers celebrating what they together have created. During the event, I met some wineries I had never heard of like Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC and Martin Ranch Winery, and got to talk to vineyard growers like Luis Zabala and vintners including Mark Chesebro (finally!)! I am looking forward to visiting Zabala Vineyards sometime after harvest, when things calm way back down.
ABOUT THE ARROYO SECO AVA
The Arroyo Seco AVA was established in 1983. That was fairly early in Monterey County’s AVA development. (Read about all of Monterey County’s AVA’s on the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association website.) We became fans of the Arroyo Seco AVA many years ago through the wines of Chesebro and Mercy, the latter, sadly, no longer in operation. Now, when I see a winery offering wines from Arroyo Seco, I jump at the opportunity to try them – from delicate and flavorful whites from vineyards including Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala to the big reds found at Shale Canyon.
A wine I really miss from the region is Mercy’s Syrah from Zabala Vineyards. I have yet to figure out who is making Syrah out of those grapes today (in addition to Luis Zabala himself!)
“The Arroyo Seco AVA encompasses portions of two towns; Soledad and Greenfield in California’s Monterey County. In the rural, western extremes of these townships the Santa Lucia Mountains rise dramatically, creating the western boundary of the Salinas Valley, and provide the unique setting for one of California’s earliest recognized viticultural area. It is in this landscape that a transverse waterway from the mountains carved the distinct geography and geology, and ultimately converges with the maritime influences of the deep, cold waters of the Pacific Ocean found 40 miles north at Monterey Bay. Ultimately, the confluences of so many distinct geographic factors unite to form this small, finite growing region.
“Granted federal AVA status on April 15, 1983, the Arroyo Seco appellation is steeped in winegrowing history and rooted in the geographic features of a waterway named “Arroyo Seco”. This seasonal creek brings rain water and snowmelt from the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Los Padres National Forrest to the Salinas Valley. Over the millenniums the pressure of this natural water-release created a diverse geography; carving landscape, dumping rocks and filling a deep subteranian aquifer with clean, pure water. Ultimately, the esteemed authors of the appellation cited the unique terrain formed by the Arroyo Seco as the foundation of AVA’s boundaries. Within the AVA’s boundaries the first commercial vineyard, Mission Ranch, was propogated by the Mirassou family in 1961, over two decades before the region received its AVA status.
“Consisting of 18,240 acres the Arroyo Seco AVA is one of the smallest AVAs in California (by contrast the largest California AVA is 3,008,000 acres, while other coastal appellations dwarf the Arroyo Seco AVA; the Santa Cruz Mountains is 408,000 acres, the Russian River Valley is 96,000 acres, the Santa Maria Valley is over 80,000 acres, the Sta Rita Hills AVA is 30,720 acres, and the Santa Lucia Highlands is 22,000 acres). It is a finite piece of terrain that has always been considered, by virtue of the definition of an AVA, one of most the “distinguished” places to grow grapes in Califorina. In fact, of the over 100 California AVAs the Arroyo Seco was one of the earliest to be recognized – the 15th AVA (tied for no. 15 with two other AVAs) to be granted such distinction.”
I like to use the description of the AVA from Mercy’s former website in my classes:
“Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.”
THE WINES
Today I am presenting wines we tasted at that event from four wineries: Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines. I’ll write up the rest of the wineries next week. Despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal. I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Scott Family Estate is part of the Rutherford Wine Company focused on Arroyo Seco wines. It produces high volumes of wine (on Monterey standards) and distributed nationally. This was the first time I had seen Scott Family Estate wines at our local wine events. I’m always excited to “discover” wineries right in our own backyard. According to its webpage:
“Witness the exquisite harmony achieved through the meticulous fusion of cool-climate varietals and the pristine terroir they call home. This union is a symphony orchestrated by the interplay of specific soil compositions, judicious clonal choices, elevated vineyard sites, and the microclimate’s gentle caress.
“The outcome is a tapestry of flavors that pay homage to their origins. Our Burgundian style Chardonnays and Pinot Noir showcase this enchanting connection, inviting you to savor the fruit of unparalleled quality, each sips an eloquent ode to its unique growing enclave.”
2021 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County,14.5% ABV, $36 (#1129)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 harvest in Monterey County was condensed following a long, cool growing season. The extended cool conditions and lack of hot summer days resulted in high acids and low sugars. The season’s long hang times resulted in refined development, as well as wines with great depth and exceptionally concentrated fruit flavors and density.”
My Notes: My only note was that I liked this Chardonnay. Well balanced and tasty.
2021 Scott Family Estate Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $45 (#1130)
Winery Notes: “A soft and decadent 100% Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, sage, ripe raspberries and earthy notes. Richly textured and medium-bodied with balanced acidity creating a smooth, lingering finish. Enjoy this elegant Pinot Noir now or save for up to seven years.”
My Notes: My only note on this wine was that it was typical for the region.
“Embark on Your Next Wine Adventure with Ocnautic”
OCNAUTIC is part of the ASV family of wines with vineyards in Arroyo Seco and Paso Robles. Muirwood is also part of this group. OCNAUTIC is located in Paso Robles and focus on Paso Robles and Monterey wines.
From their website: “If you believe the legend, a three-masted schooner named the Ocnautic sailed the seas in the early 1800s. It was renowned for many wonderous voyages and inspired many to take to the seas in the spirit of discovery.
“Thus, we named our adventurous, boldly styled wines from the California Central Coast OCNAUTIC. Great wine takes you on an enchanting journey of discovery. We invite you to join us.”
2022 OCNAUTIC Grenache Blanc, Wiley Vineyard, Monterey County (#1131)
Winery Notes from ASVwines.com: “Soft aromas of white flower, honeysuckle, and citrus peel are followed by flavors of rich pineapple, stone fruit, and refreshing acidity on the finish.” 96% Grenache Blanc, 4% Viognier.
My Notes: This wine has a very cool, octagonal and nautical label. I detected some grass on the nose and otherwise have no tasting notes.
“WINES CRAFTED WITH CARE FROM MONTEREY COUNTY’S RENOWNED ARROYO SECO VINEYARDS”
I have presented a Muirwood wine before from a tasting I did at A Taste of Monterey in Cannery Row. Muirwood is located in the Greenfield area. I found this description on their website:
“Our approach is grounded in the belief that the best wines come from the best grapes. This translates into attention to detail at every step of the grape growing and winemaking process; from the inspection of soil profiles and climate conditions, to determining which root stocks and clonal varieties are best suited to the growing site, to the selection and blending of individual lots.”
2022 Muirwood Unoaked Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1132)
Winery Notes: “Citrus bouquet, mango and guava on palate, elegant and complex.”
My Notes: This Chardonnay was quite heavy, rich and flavorful on the palate. August 2023
2021 Muirwood Cabernet SauvignonArroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1133)
Winery Notes: “Black currant and cassis, toasty notes, complex finish.”
My Notes: Very dark ruby. Oak on the nose, followed by a nice palate of dark fruit. August 2023
I first wrote about Luli Wineshere. A snippet from their website tells their story:
“Wine offers expression of people-in-relation rather than selves apart. Luli, the result of a partnership between a master sommelier, a distinguished vineyard manager and an expert winemaker, provides a particularly happy example of the way in which wine creates community, because Luli is itself a collective enterprise. Sommelier, grape-grower, and winemaker, we three approach wine from different angles, but work synergistically to craft exceptional hand-crafted vintages at comfortable prices. We thrive together—and have fun doing so. And why not? The pleasure of wine supplies us with a way to enjoy life. So open a bottle, pour the swirling liquid into a glass, and celebrate, as we do, the bonds between family and friends…” This is a joint effort by sommelier Sara Floyd and Mark and Jeff Pisoni.
Winery Notes: “Fresh, vibrant, and lifted in all regards, the 2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc packs a youthful punch from start to finish. A pale straw hue intermixes with tinges of green as this wine shimmers in the glass. Notes of lime zest, lemongrass, and juicy grapefruit are more pronounced, as wet stone and a hint of fresh herbs offer unexpected complexity. While the palate may first show the crisp acidity, citrus driven flavors soon dominate before giving way to additional layers of volume and texture earned with three months of aging on the lees in all neutral French oak barrels. This delicious Sauvignon Blanc is best enjoyed cold, young, and often.
My Notes: Grassy, crisp, and tasty.
THE TASTING ROOMS
To my knowledge, Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines do not have tasting rooms. You can taste Muirwood wines at A Taste of Monterey. Check their websites for more information.
I never knew we could fit a crowd in Sal Rombi’s small tasting room in Carmel Valley Village, but when he offered to host the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for one of their first Friday WinedUP events, I jumped on the opportunity. We had about 18 members and the intimate setting lent itself to us all getting to know Sal, his wines, and each other a bit better. Thank you, Sal, for opening up just for us – we are grateful!
I’ve dotted this post with pictures of our group having a great time at the Rombi Tasting Room. We are always looking for new places to try, so if you are a local winery and interested in hosting our group, just let us know! The Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society enjoys learning about new places and our members BUY WINE! And *BONUS* – there is usually a writeup in Decanting Monterey about our experience!
I have to say that his 2018 Petit Verdot from Napa Valley continues to be stunner – it was a crowd pleaser that evening and continues to be a house favorite. I recently texted Sal that we have a huge problem at our house: Lots of Rombi Wine but zero (zero!!) Petit Verdot. The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod headed to his tasting room on Saturday to rectify the situation. While we were there, Sal gave us a couple of not-yet-released wines to try at home. We tasted his 2018 Petite Sirah that night, which I have just added to this post.
“Sal, we have a problem! We are out of your 2018 Petit Verdot!!”
As I have said before, the fruit from Sal Rombi’s Carmel Valley Vineyard is so flavorful, creating wines with up-front intense flavors. Rombi’s wines are very big and complex – highly recommend decanting to get the full fruit flavors. Actually, we have been double-decanting and double-aerating them for best results…unless you really want to wait a day after opening. Who can wait? I mean, it is not like we decide at noon that we will have one of his big Cabernet Sauvignons after dinner. It is usually an in-the-moment decision. Like Friday night, when we opened his 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is drinking beautifully, by the way.
THE WINES
In today’s post I will present 9 Rombi wines. The 2015 Merlot, 2018 Petite Sirah and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon wines are presented here for the first time. The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon came from our home stock, along with the 2012 Merlot, which was gifted to me. The 2018 Petite Sirah was just gifted to me this weekend to try in advance of its release. The rest are the current releases we re-tasted with the Monterey AWS in early August, with slightly updated tasting notes, as applicable.
2012 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $65 (#836)
*This bottle was given to us – I will always tell you when I am presenting a wine any winery has gifted to me.*
My Review: We blind-tasted this wine at home. Almost purple in color. Nose of lean dark fruits – plum, blackberry, cassis and a touch earthy. Palate is intense, concentrated jamminess, fruity. I guessed it was an older, fine Bordeaux. Not too far off, eh? Dark berries, oak, cassis and a dry finish. Showing well. Lean yet big yet intense. Good to the last drop. March 2023
2015 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA , Monterey County, 14.1% ABV $65 (#1126)
My Review: This is the first time I have presented this wine. Inky in the glass. Rich dark, warm berries on the nose, perhaps a touch of licorice, herbs, and alcohol. Brown sugar on the front end, followed by a delicious, mouth-filling palate. A little spice – cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, followed by a slight tang on the finish. We double-decanted this wine, as we do with every Rombi wine. June 2023
2019 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $65 (#974)
My Review: Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Dusty raspberry notes on the nose. Tart smooth raspberry on the palate. I’m lacking words to describe how delicious this fruit is. For such a young Rombi wine, it is very drinkable now and has the structure to last. April 2023
2014 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#1127)
My Review: We blind tasted this wine at home – this is the first time I have presented this wine. Purple in the glass. Dark nose of cedar, dark plum, and blackberry. The palate was just “wow.” It was palate-coating rich from beginning to end, loaded with big and brooding dark fruit. I had guessed it was a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was nothing short of amazing. It was decanted and double aerated about an hour before serving. July 2023
2016 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#837)
My Review: Affected by the Soberanes Fire, Sal fondly refers to this wine as “Smokey.” Dark ruby in the glass, tastes a bit like BBQ ribs with some ash on the finish. I like BBQ ribs…just sayin’. Yeah, it is smokey! August 2023
2018 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#328)
My Review: Garnet in color. A warm nose with plum, cherry and mocha notes. Complex with lots of cherry on the palate and chewy tannins. Can’t wait to see what this becomes. Cellar for the future. Updated August 2023
2017 Rombi Petite Sirah, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#331)
This fruit comes from the Galante vineyards, supplemented with some of Sal’s own grapes.
My Review: A rich, bright garnet in the glass. Cherry and berry notes on the nose. Thick on the palate with cherry and berry flavors. This is a “wow” wine. This wine has improved over the years and is very drinkable right now. April 2023
2018 Rombi Petite Sirah, Napa Valley AVA, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#1128) (pre-release)
Sal gifted me a bottle of this wine to try it pre-release.
My Review: Very dark purple in color. Dried fig and cigarettes on the nose. Super rich palate of blackberry and blueberry, very different from the redder fruit flavors of the Carmel Valley fruit. Our enjoyment was enhanced by not having to guess what wine this was. Very nice, Sal. September 2023
2018 Rombi Petit Verdot, Napa Valley, 14.4% ABV, $75 (#330)
This is Rombi’s first Petit Verdot, which I reviewed back in 2021 and liked very much. As I wrote before, Sal shared with us the small fact that Petit Verdot is the last fruit to ripen. I likely had commented that I used to think Petit Verdot was a touch vegetal. Perhaps others aren’t patient enough for the fruit to ripen fully!
My Review: Purple in the glass. A very jammy nose, enhanced by some warm, brown sugar and mocha notes. The palate: super rich, smooth, with dark berry flavors. It’s delicious, dark fruit with a slightly bitter finish. This is one of my favorite Petit Verdots. Blows my socks off. I’m sad we are out of this wine at our house! Updated August 2023
“Taste winemaker Salvatore Rombi’s award-winning limited-production vintages of Rombi Estate-grown Carmel Valley Vineyard Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, taste our outstanding Carmel Valley Petite Sirah and Napa Valley fruit Petit Verdot.
“Since the winemaker and owner Salvatore Rombi will be pouring in the tasting room, you will enjoy firsthand knowledge and education, from growing the fruit to producing the wine. Sal does it all! Truly a very unique tasting room experience.
“Rombi Wines are only available directly from our tasting room, and each previous vintage released has sold out.”
Located in the Carmel Valley Village at 1 Center Street, 11 3/4 miles from Highway One, Right Off Carmel Valley Road (831) 659-7200. Hours of Operation: Only Saturday – Sunday, 12 pm to 5 pm.
by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!
THE STORY
We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June. He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately. Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer! Lesson learned: pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!
Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.
If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.
The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic.
Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations. Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time. I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.
Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year.
David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up. He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021. And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!
Sangiovese
After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room. Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed. It would encompass the Folktale property. It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.
Our mutual assessment: We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years. They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.
“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.
“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”
“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”
THE WINES
I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale, Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story: Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!
Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.
Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!
Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023
2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)
Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby. Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023
NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)
I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made. Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it: You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses. You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.
I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:
“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”
Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.
Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity. August 2023
Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.
Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.
2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023
2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann
Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023
2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)
2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines. The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023
The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
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