Today let’s talk about how Samuel Louis Smith crafts cool climate elegance in a bottle.
THE STORY
In August, we made a trip to K&L Wine Merchants after landing at SFO. I typically head straight to the Syrahs to see which Central Coast wines they have in stock. Not seeing anything that struck my fancy, I asked at the counter if they had a recommendation. “Samuel Louis Smith” was the answer. Then we checked our order and saw we had already selected it for purchase!
I previously introduced Samuel Louis Smith and his 2018 Syrah here: “Samuel Louis Smith: “Unmanipulated Elegance” in Limited Production Wines”. Let’s update that with the latest information from his website!
ABOUT SAMUEL LOUIS SMITH from his website:
Micro-négoce
“Samuel Louis Smith is a micro-négociant based in Salinas, CA, focused on some of the coolest sites of the Central Coast. Mountainous terroir, organic viticulture, and minimal intervention in the cellar are tenets of the brand. SLS presents a compelling cross-section of the Central Coast, focusing on chardonnay, gamay noir, pinot noir, and cool-climate syrah from Santa Barbara, Monterey, and Santa Cruz. The brand embodies a neoclassical style where lower alcohol and higher acidity, stem inclusion in the reds, and native fermentations with little to no additions create wines of place and purity, aroma and structure.
“Over the course of his career, Sam has worked in Santa Barbara (Brander, Tres Hermanas, Margerum), Australia (Mitchelton), the Willamette Valley (Tendril), the Northern Rhône (Villard), and most recently in Champagne (Nowack & Sélèque). He is currently head winemaker of Morgan Winery, a pioneer of organic viticulture in the Santa Lucia Highlands. The future vision of SLS is a program focused on estate grown grapes. For now, Sam is dedicated to sourcing fruit from the most distinctive sustainably and organically farmed vineyards, highlighting the best of the Central Coast’s mountainous sites. SLS produces about 1,000 cases annually.
Background
“Sam studied Economics, French, and Spanish at UC Santa Barbara. A nagging desire for wine knowledge and proximity to good surf led Sam to Bordeaux- the perfect place to spend a semester abroad. Coinciding with the iconic vintage of 2009, it opened his eyes to the world of haute cuisine and fine wine. Though somewhat reticent and cold, Sam’s Bordelaise host family ate and drank quite well; their pairing of confit de canard with ’89 Margaux on a cold Sunday afternoon in November still serves as an epiphanous moment for him.
“Wine and everything it embodies are still the most cerebral and inspiring experience for Sam. Making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley and cool-climate syrah in the Northern Rhône, and cutting his teeth as assistant winemaker for Margerum Wine Company gave him the opportunities to find where his palate and California’s cool, mountainous Central Coast terroir converge…”
THE WINE
I have just one wine to present to you today from Samuel Louis Smith. Winery notes come from his website and from K&L Wine Merchants. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2021 Samuel Louis Smith Sandstone Terrace Syrah, Nelson & Gali Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#1210)
Winery Notes: I’ve included most of his write-up about this wine, as it describes in some detail some of our local vineyards.
Terroir
“Sandstone Terrace is a blend of primarily SCM cool-climate syrah sites with the common thread of sandstone-derived soils. In most vintages, it embodies the sexy, spicy, and floral side of the varietal.
“Nelson Vineyard (44%) is located in the Summit district of the SCM. The property was planted to chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah in ‘99 after spending 30 years as a Christmas tree farm best known for silvertip firs, a variety that thrives at higher elevations. At 1700 ft, the vines growing in sandy loam and chunky sandstone are surrounded by redwoods and firs. Organically farmed.
“Gali Vineyard (42%) is located in the Corralitos district of the southern SCM. At the low elevation of 400 ft and approximately six miles from the ocean, this is one of the coldest sites in our lineup. Soils are clay loam weathered from sandstone and shale, formed on ancient submarine terraces. In conversion to organics.
“Tondré Vineyard (14%) was planted in ‘97 in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands, in granitic loam and extremely cool climate thanks to nearby Monterey Bay’s contribution of persistent morning fog and windy, sunny afternoons.
Winery Tasting Notes:
“Dark purple. Black plum, brambleberry, white pepper, and dried violets are followed by black fruits, cured and smoked meats, and savory spices on the palate. Medium bodied with elegant chalky tannins.”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “Fresh and snappy aromas of boysenberry sorbet and rose petals are also Pinot Noir-like on the nose of this Syrah. The palate is extremely floral, like sipping from a punch of rose petal and violet, with a backdrop of black raspberry and white pepper. Drink now–2038.” Matt Kettmann August 2020
My Review: Dark in the glass. Anise and blackberry on the nose. A sophisticated, mid-weight palate of herbs, forest floor, crushed berries, baking spices and rocks. Hints of sour cherries on the woody finish. September 2023
WHERE TO FIND
Although Samuel Louis Smith doesn’t have a tasting room, you can use this link on their website to find their wines: https://samuellouiswines.com/wine/.
© Decanting Monterey 2023
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