Part 4: Bruliam, Cattelya, Landmark, Miner Family, and Rombauer
Today is my final post (hurray!) about the May 13th Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival. You can find the previous posts here: https://www.decantingmonterey.com/sun-wind-wine-great-wine-and-food-in-the-prestigious-santa-lucia-highlands-ava, https://www.decantingmonterey.com/sun-wind-wine-great-wine-and-food-in-the-prestigious-santa-lucia-highlands-ava-2, and https://decantingmonterey.com/sun-wind-wine-great-wine-and-food-in-the-prestigious-santa-lucia-highlands-ava-3/
A short recap of the Festival (repeated from previous event posts): The Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans said this about this event: “Sun, Wind & Wine. The Santa Lucia Highlands is a small but mighty winegrowing appellation in Monterey County that cultivates California’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With generations of family farming, innovation and sustainability as our legacy, our growers and vineyards have earned their place among the state’s most prestigious names for appellation and single-vineyard cool-climate varieties.” The number of wineries present was staggering! We had a strategy going in – to focus on wineries we did not know, to share pours, and to dump the rest.
I did not capture detailed tasting notes at this event; rather, I’ll talk about some of the wineries we met. As a reminder: Pinot Noir is not my wheelhouse, so I can only go by impressions. That said, I would attend this event again for the experience, take a lot more pictures, and focus on any new/new-to-me Central Coast wineries!
In this final post on the event, I am presenting 5 out-of-area (non-Monterey County, non-Central Coast AVA) wineries which make wines with the Santa Lucia Highlands designation. According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, my go-to source for all things Monterey wine, about half of the grapes grown in Monterey County are procured by wineries outside of the county. Today’s post includes Bruliam, Cattelya, Landmark, Miner Family, and Rombauer. Any winery notes are from their websites or from the presenters at this event, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
BRULIAM
I had never heard of Bruliam before. Winemaker Kerith Overstreet was presenting her wines herself, which is always a great thing. Her winery is named by combining parts of the names of her three children. Clever and sweet!
“When she was small, her dad used to say, “You can be whatever you want after medical school.” So she did. After completing medical school (U. of Rochester), residency, and two fellowships (UCSD), she thought winemaking sounded more fun. So she enrolled at UC Davis to study enology and catapulted into the 2008 harvest.
“Starting with a single barrel, Kerith has grown Bruliam Wines to 1000 cases a year (plus/minus). It’s mostly single vineyard pinot noir with a smidgen of Rockpile zinfandel. With delight and an “OK” from the CF-NO (aka the hubby), she added chardonnay in 2017. Cherishing her grower relationships, Kerith has aligned herself with top vineyards and growers to supply her fruit. Today she cherry picks her fruit from the top vineyards in Sonoma County, Santa Lucia Highlands, and her own Torrey Hill vineyard in the Russian River Valley.”
Tasting Bruliam Wines: You can book a tasting here: https://www.bruliamwines.com/tastings.
2017 Bruliam Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.2% ABV, $55 (#1016)
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “Baked black raspberry, rose petals tea leaves, smoked sage and a hint of blood show on the complex nose of this bottling. It lands with weight and chalky texture on the palate, which is full of roasted plum and sagebrush flavors, leading into a finish wrapped in sizzling acidity and vanilla-cookie spice.” — Matt Kettmann
2018 Bruliam Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $60 (#1017)
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “Black cherry, cola and smoky root beer aromas make for a fairly rich nose on this bottling. Blackberry and red-plum flavors mesh into cardamom spice on the palate, which is clean though hearty and ripe.”
2019 Bruliam Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 13.8% ABV, $65 (#1018)
Winery Notes: “Wowza! Beautifully integrated with brambly berries, exotic spices, and hints of soft herbs, the 2019 Soberanes is nuanced and complex. This pinot captivates with fine grain tannins and mouthcoating texture that belie her cellar worthy pedigree. She’s a food friendly, age worthy showstopper. But we won’t judge if you simply sip and find yourself transported.” Wine Spectator – 92 points.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “An ample show of dust and herbs consume the nose on this bottling, which picks up scents of raspberry and rose as well. The palate’s blend of hibiscus and black tea flavors are wrapped in an oaky spice.” — Matt Kettmann
CATTELYA
We didn’t know what “Cattleya” meant (something to do with Colombian orchids, I think) – or that an out of area winery located in Rohnert Park would make so many Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah wines! I can find very little information about the newly-released vintages. Based on the prices of previous vintages, these well-respected wines likely are priced in the $70 range. In general, we liked these wines and I would like to try them again!
the winemaker Bibiana González Rave
“I grew up in a country where vineyards are virtually non-existent. My exposure to wine was limited only to rare occasions at the dinner table. A few sips occasionally stolen from my father’s wine glass were enough to inspire an all-consuming dream—to become a winemaker. So I packed my bags and left for France. And in that moment I set the course of my life, a never-ending journey pursuing inspirational wines. During the summer of 2001, I immersed myself in all things wine, ultimately earning a BTS degree in Viticulture and Enology from Cognac followed by a degree in Enology from the University of Bordeaux, graduating with honors.
“Driven by the tenacity which first took me to France, I pruned vines during ice-cold winters, trimmed shoots in sweltering summers, and tended to the vines that cling to the sheer slopes of Côte-Rôtie—first at Domaine Stéphane Ogier, then at Domaine Clusel-Roch. At the famed estates of Château Haut-Brion & La Mission Haut-Brion, I completed research for my thesis. This hard work paid off – I had the privilege to work among other family-owned wine producers in Burgundy, Alsace, and Cognac. My passion for wine whisked me around the globe, sending me between California, South Africa, and France for several years before I decided to call California my home.
The birth of cattleya wines
“By the end of 2011, after many harvests perfecting the craft of making wine, I set upon my own adventure—a label known today as CATTLEYA WINES. Meanwhile, I became a viticulturist and winemaker consultant; focused on vineyard optimization to produce exceptional wines from Sonoma and Napa Valley.
“In 2015, I was awarded “Winemaker of the Year” by the San Francisco Chronicle, just over a year after being named one of Wine Enthusiast’s “40 Under 40 America’s Tastemakers”.”
2021 Cattleya The Initiation Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA (#1019)
This wine was very purple in the glass and comes from the Soberanes Vineyard.
2021 Cattleya The Reward Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA (#1020)
I couldn’t locate any winery notes about this inky and lovely wine, but I suggest reading Kerry Winslow’s writeup of it at this link on grapelive.com.
2016 Cattleya Soberanes Vineyard Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.2% ABV (#1021)
This very yummy wine was rated 98 points by Jeb Dunnuck! I unfortunately do not have access to duplicate his review here.
LANDMARK
Landmark:
2018 Landmark Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.4% ABV, (#1022)
“We are very excited to be offering our 7th vintage from this highly regarded source of Pinot Noir for Landmark. Our partner growers at this vineyard, nestled in the hills on the ear side of the Santa Lucia Range, focus on the commitment to exceptional fruit quality. The single-vineyard source for our Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir continues to consistently provide high-quality wine grapes, year after year. This exciting appellation is enhanced by the maritime influence from nearby Monterey Bay, providing a very long growing season with a mild summer and typically dry fall.
“Medium purple/ruby at the core with a slightly lighter rim, aromas of ripe black fruit, baking spice, oak, leather and subtle roasted coffee notes. The palate is dry, nearly full bodied, with ripe black cherry, ripe plum and vanilla on entry. Toasty oak, tobacco and leather join sustained ripe black fruit on the mid-palate with balanced acidity and mouth-filling tannins that meet the generous fruit nicely through a moderately long finish.”
2021 Landmark Escolle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.2% ABV, $50 (#1023)
“The 2021 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir bottling represents our ninth vintage working hand in hand with our grower partners and is once again defined by their commitment to achieving the highest-quality fruit from vintage to vintage. A long growing season, slow fruit maturation, and night hand-harvesting at ideal ripeness allow Landmark to craft a wine of exceptional balance, structure, quality, and longevity.
“Ruby colored at its core with moderate tearing on the glass. Aromas of dried cranberry, cola, cocoa powder, and holiday spice lead to dark cherries. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red and black fruit that blend into toasted oak. The finish is moderately long featuring notes of porcini mushroom, coffee, and dried orange peel as well as balanced acidity and finely textured tannins.”
My Review: Ruby in color. Berry on the palate. This wine was nice. I preferred its intensity and overall flavor profile over the earlier vintage. Mind you, it was VERY LATE in our tasting by the time we found Landmark. May 2023
MINER FAMILY WINES
We have been long time fans of Miner Family Oracle, a Bordeaux-style red blend. We were quite surprised to see them at this event. They are part of that growing trend to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the renowned Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.
About Miner Family Wines: “Miner is a dynamic family-owned winery tucked along the eastern hills of the Oakville appellation in the heart of Napa Valley. Founded in 1998 by Dave and Emily Miner, Miner Family Winery crafts reserve-style wines by sourcing fruit from Napa Valley and other specially selected California vineyards.
“Winemaker Stacy Vogel uses a combination of old world winemaking techniques and modern technology to make wines that reflect the unique characteristics of individual vineyards or “terroir” where specific varietals grow best. This fusion of superb vineyard sites and thoughtful winemaking allows Miner to deliver elegant, expressive wines.” (from the tech sheet below)
2019 Miner Family Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $75 (#1024)
Winery Notes: “Sierra Mar, meaning Mountain Sea in Spanish, sits just over 1,000 feet and is one of the highest altitude vineyards in Santa Lucia Highlands. This high elevation paired with the naturally thin soils pave the way for low yields of highly intense fruit. This powerful wine offers dark fruit and violet aromas with a smooth, toasted oak finish.” 482 cases produced.
2019 Miner Family Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.3% ABV, $65 (#1025)
Winery Notes: “With nuanced flavors of plum, nutmeg, cedar and cherry, this Pinot Noir is appealing for its velvety texture, finesse and purity of fruit. Rosella’s Vineyard benefits from its hillside location and weather patterns of foggy mornings and long, sunny afternoons.”
2019 Miner Family Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $75 (#1006)
Winery Notes: “This 50-acre vineyard was planted in 1995 by friends and growers Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni along the terraces of the Santa Lucia mountain range, overlooking the Salinas River Valley. With plenty of lovely, rich tannins, this Pinot offers up flavors of dark red fruit, subtle oak, nutmeg-clove spice. Aged for 14 months in French Oak.”
ROMBAUER VINEYARDS:
This was another surprise to see at a Santa Lucia Highlands event. Turns out this is their first vintage of this wine.
About Rombauer: “Koerner and Joan established Rombauer Vineyards in 1980, and in 1984 they released their first California-style Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Four decades later–and still family owned–the winery has become widely acclaimed for its distinctive, fruit-driven expressions.”
2021 Rombauer Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $65 (#1013)
Winery Notes: “Aromas of plum, cherry, and crushed cranberry are lifted and concentrated on the nose, complemented by light lavender notes and hints of spice. You will find this wine to be rich and silky, with vibrant red fruit flavors, subtle notes of earthiness, and warm spice all finding expression in this beautifully balanced wine. The finish builds on the back palate, a signature of all Rombauer wines.”
© Decanting Monterey 2023
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