Tagged: 2008

Parsonage Library Wine: The Last of the Carmelstone!

We learned the hard way that, when your winery allocation includes a library wine, then you really should drink it.  With that in mind, we have been combing our stock for must-drink wines and found a bunch of Parsonage that needed to be opened.  My last post about Parsonage wines was in August here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-showcases-its-powerful-wines-to-the-monterey-aws/.  Since then, we have been to their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village to taste new releases and also sampled quite a few library wines from our own collection.

Years ago, Parsonage bottles a Syrah from the Carmelstone section of their vineyard.  I believe they told me that they no longer get enough fruit from the Carmelstone lot to bottle it separately. It was some of the finest Syrah I had ever tasted.  We found 2 bottles of the 2014 vintage in our private collection – they were enjoyed greatly and are sadly gone. That might be the end of Carmelstone for us. I do notice on their website that they have a couple of vintages of this wine in 5 liter bottles – a bit out of my size and price range, but it is tempting…

Today, I am presenting 9 Parsonage wines – a few new releases and a lot of Library wines. Only two are a repeat – the 2019 Parsonage Cyrano  and the 2016 Rocco Reserve Syrah.  I walked into the tasting room in September and found Bill Parsons and the staff engaged in an interesting exercise: how does aeration affect the Cyrano.  I got to play! So I am sharing that with you.  And the smoke-tainted Rocco is still an intriguing bottling – one I recognized immediately when playing mystery wine – worthy of an update.

I’ve presented Parsonage to you in several prior posts and won’t repeat about them here (just type “Parsonage” in the search bar to see them all). You can check out their website here:  https://www.parsonagewine.com/. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website, or from the winery direct to me, as usual. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2019 Parsonage Cyrano Red Blend, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $28 (#796) 70% Merlot, 30% Syrah   

Winery Notes: “Our versatile red table wine easily pairs with a variety of different foods. We think it goes especially well with pizza and spaghetti with red sauce. This vintage is full bodied. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Syrah. Rich, ripe and voluptous. The Cyrano is one of our best sellers.”

My Review: Stumbled into a side by side tasting of aerated and un-aerated Cyrano.  Un: Plum and spice on the finish. Aerated: Slightly more ruby color (call me crazy), much richer palate and smoother finish, less spice. Aeration amplified the flavors! September 2022

2019 Parsonage BDL, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $44 (#877)          

Winery Notes: “The BDL (originally named the Bordelais) is our Bordeaux-style blend with a rapturous bouquet of wildflowers, exotic spice, and a broad spectrum of ripe red, blue and dark berries. A lot of complexity and beauty here. The round, vibrant palate shows off the rich berry fruit of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot blend. The fruit and the spice join together at the finish to force me to cry out, DELICIOUS!!!.”

My Review: Pretty ruby in color.  Coca cola on the nose. This is a very tasty vintage of the BDL, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. October 2022

2019 Parsonage Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast AVA, 15% ABV, $48 (#878) 

Winery Notes: “The nose is marked dramatically by the scent of violets and spice wrapped in black cherry compote. The palate flavors are blackberry, black cherry, black currant, and dark plum with just a hint of cassis. This medium-plus-body beauty is harmoniously balanced with ripe and supple tannins showing off on the delightfully lengthy finish.”

My Review: This wine was a very pleasant surprise. It comes from Russell Joyce’s vineyard in Paicines.  Very smooth, juicy and tasty. We took a couple of bottles home!  October 2022

2012 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#879)

Winery Notes: “Our biggest cab has a broad nose of huckleberry, horehound licorice, black cherry, cassis and a hint of pepper.  The palate is fully structured (but not stridently so like a big tannicky Napa cab) with fully ripened tannins that lead to a smooth, rounded finish.”

My Review:   Rich dark ruby in the glass. Blackberry, dark cherry and chocolate on the nose. Smooth dark berries and cedar on the palate. Super delicious. Excellent! August 2022

2012 Parsonage Dario Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#880)

My Review: Inky in the glass. Bouquet of rich, dark jammy fruit, sharp licorice, alternating with sulfur. The fruit and sulfur continue to alternate onto the heavy palate with a tart cherry and tobacco finish.  We had a long discussion about this wine and think we should have decanted it and opened it way earlier! August 2022

2008 Parsonage Dario Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#881)

My Review: Dark in the glass.  Beautiful nose of dark fruit – like cassis. Palate has notes of plum, prune, and cassis with a hint of sulphur. November 2022

2016 Parsonage Rocco Reserve Syrah, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $80 (#89)

Winery Notes: “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit.  The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant.

My Review: Inky. Big nose of dark fruit, alcohol, sweet tobacco and licorice (a bit of barnyard). Tons of rich, jammy, dark fruit cloaked in smoke on the finish. I recognized it right away as a Rocco. Still delicious despite the smoke taint. Probably one of the best 2016 Monterey smoke-tainted wines out there. September 2022

2014 Parsonage Carmelstone Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $125 (#882)

My Review: Cinnamon and berry on the nose. Juicy, smooth, rich palate of intense berries and cinnamon spice. I am so sad we opened both bottles and it is gone. November 2022

2015 Parsonage Xandro Reserve, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $90 (#883) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blend

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass.  Dark berries on the nose. Very delicious warm fruit. Scrumptious! May 2022

Parsonage is open for tastings by reservation only every day – click here for the details.  You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. 

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Taste Carmel Valley: A “Sweet Spot” for Wine Pairings!

In December 2020, we were hanging out with Sal Rombi when Gary from the Wine Trolley joined us.  He shared with us his new business concept for offering wine tastings from smaller or out of business wineries, as well as offering bakery items which he makes himself.  This became Taste Carmel Valley, also known as “The Sweet Spot” (http://www.carmelvalleysweetspot.com/).

Their sign outside boasts Boëté and Chock Rock wines.  We have been huge fans of both – long-time members at Boëté – and have missed Chock Rock since they closed their tasting room some years back. This is a great venue to taste the fabulous Boëté wines, since they closed their tasting room.

Taste Carmel Valley (aka The Sweet Shop) is a cute place.  It offers delicious family-made baked goods, unique wines, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and clothing.  First, you are welcomed by their “Golden Daschund” and then the friendly staff inside.  They let us know when Gary would be there to do a wine tasting for us and we came back.

On our big wine tasting weekend in June, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod stopped in to taste the Chock Rock Syrah. We found the tasting menu to be extensive.  The concept is to choose 5 wines for $14. The list includes Chateau Sinnet, Karlsen (Chock Rock), Carmel Hills, Rancho Carmelo, Boëté, and Mesa del Sol. These are smaller wineries which do not currently have their own tasting room or have stopped making wine.  As we pondered what to try besides the Chock Rock Syrah, Gary started pouring us wines.  About 10 wines later, we finally got the Syrah!

A bit about the wineries included in today’s post from his website and elsewhere:   https://tastecarmelvalleycalifonrnia.square.site/

Château Sinnet is no longer making wine and its Carmel Valley tasting room is closed (despite what you might find on Yelp, etc.).  The location is still there, used now as a storeroom.  Its unusual wines included a White Merlot, the Red Eyed Monkey and a Late Harvest Zinfandel.  We liked to stop in there from time to time and were fans of the Red Eyed Monkey – this red blend even had its own Facebook fan club page!

Carmelo Vineyards are adjacent to Parsonage and is where Frank Melicia resides – he is the winemaker for Parsonage, Silvestri and Carmelo, among other pursuits. 

“Karlsen Family Wines and Chock Rock Vineyard was established in 2006 by veteran winemaker, Dan Karlsen and his wife Kathleen. Chock Rock Vineyard produces wine from their estate vineyard and other unique vineyard sites in Monterey County, California. The wines of Chock Rock are absolutely handcrafted at their estate micro-winery secluded high in the Santa Lucia Mountains at the farthest reaches of the Carmel Valley. Great fruit from unique sites coupled with 30 years of winemaking experience ensure world class quality wines. Karlsen offers Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Rosé and Syrah.” There is a lot more to the story – check out Karlsen here: https://www.karlsenwines.com/ and Chock Rock here: https://www.chockrock.com/.

“Deep in the heart of Steinbeck country, nestled between the Arroyo Seco Gorge and the Ventana wilderness, lies Mesa del Sol. The historic stagecoach stop and organic winery showcases the best of Monterey County’s rugged landscape and elegant wines. Mesa del Sol produces Old Vine Zinfandel, Grenache, Syrah, and Sangiovese. We love the “Prima Rosso” blend of all four wines.”

For a lot of these wines, I will not be able to find winery notes. And, to be frank, this was our third stop for in-depth tasting, so note-taking was not so great by this point. And Gary was very entertaining. I’d like to go back in the future and do individual winery tastings here – lots to work with. OK, here we go…

2008 Château Sinnet Manatee White Merlot, $18 (#769)

Winery Notes: A Gold Medal winner from the Florida Grape Growers Association.  Named for the vintner’s beloved manatees from his Florida home. Has its own Facebook fan page.

My Review: We actually really liked this wine and would consider buying it or serving it.  It was very tasty. Not too sweet, as pleasant wine. June 2022

2020 Karlsen Rose of Pinot Noir, Monterey County, $28 (#770)

My Review: Caramel popcorn on the nose.  Light on the palate with mild apple, pear and concrete notes. June 2022

2020 Carmelo Vineyards Rose of Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $28 (#771)

My Review: Butterscotch on the nose. Smokey on the palate (this was the year of the Carmel Fire). June 2022

Karlsen Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County, $36 (#772)

My Review: We liked this Sauvignon Blanc – crisp. Regret we didn’t get better notes on this one. June 2022

2015 Mesa del Sol Zinfandel, Arroyo Seco, $32 (#773)

2014 Review by Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A more mineral-driven style of Zinfandel, this bottling starts with aroma of gravel and baked earth along with exotic strawberry, red plum and sandalwood. The palate offers dried red fruits, hibiscus and carnation-like flavors, framed by a rocky sandstone-flecked minerality, proving mellow and elegant.” Matt Kettmann

2019 Carmelo Vineyards Estate Grown Reserve Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, $44 (#774)

2018 Review by International Wine Report – 90 points: “This 2018 Pinot Noir from Carmelo Vineyards, shows a bright aromatic profile with aromas of fresh strawberries, cherry, dried spice, dark chocolate, cured meat, vanilla blossom and earthy nuances that jump from the glass. On the palate there are lovely flavors of red berries, plum, currant and sour cherry throughout. The finish is long with live acidity. This is very enjoyable today and will age for the next 5-7 years.”

My Review: Very nice bouquet and good flavors on the palate. Bright, with a little earth, brambly with a hint of raspberry. “The perfect Pinot.” June 2022

2016 Carmelo Vineyards Estate Grown Reserve Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#775)

2017 Review by International Wine Report – 88 points: “The 2017 Pinot Noir from Carmelo Vineyards offers aromas of dark cherries, currant, dried rose petals, dark chocolate, fig, and dried herbs. On the palate this is medium-bodied with lots of freshness and acidity that lifts the flavors of sour cherry, blood orange, strawberries, and spice box. Drink it over the next 4-6 years.”

My Review: I am not sure I would guess this was a Pinot Noir.  Could definitely pick up smoke (Soberanes Fire year). June 2022

2015 Chock Rock Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, 15.6% ABV, $25 (#776)

My Review: This was the wine we went there to taste. By then, we had had so many wines. Still delicious on the palate with alcohol notes and not as much fruit as I would have expected. I would like to go back and taste this again, as this was our favorite Chock Rock wine in the past. June 2022

2004 Château Sinnet Red Eyed Monkey, San Antonio Valley (#777) 45% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Zinfandel, 5% Sangiovese, 5% Syrah

Winery Notes: “The crispness and brightness of Bing Cherry followed by the earthy aromas of forest floor and the sweet and savory notes of sassafras and cola. This wine is the most Burgundian Pinot Noir I have ever made. It’s light color and silky tannins are testament to the extra year of aging on the sediment that I gave it. The wine finishes with the fine structure on your tongue of wet stones.”

My Review: This was presented as a “Mystery wine.” We found it to be very drinkable – smooth, dark fruit.  Many years ago, we had purchased this wine and we still really like it – more than our Wine Pod partners did. June 2022

2014 Chock Rock Pinot Noir, Monterey County, $28 (#778)

Winery Notes: “100% Estate grown, a balanced wine with texture and mouth feel.”

My Review: Something seemed off with this wine.  It smelled like a fortified wine, over the hill. Perhaps we needed a new bottle opened – we did not request one. I don’t think it was a proper representation of this wine. June 2022

2017 Château Sinnet Late Harvest Zinfandel, 16.2% ABV, $25 (#779)    

My Review: OK, this was our last wine. And it tasted like a very done late harvest Zinfandel.  These grapes were picked “as raisins.” June 2022

Taste Carmel Valley is located at 9 Del Fino Place, Suite 101, in Carmel Valley. The Sweet Spot is open from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Thursdays-Sundays.  Check with the staff or call (831) 624-1700 to inquire when wines will be poured. You can also order a variety of sandwiches and salads, even charcuterie plates!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Parsonage Part 2: Virginia Wine Experts Seek Decanting Monterey’s Advice!

I usually don’t do back-to-back tastings at the same winery, but I had to make an exception.  Doug Beakes, the Chair of the John Marshall Chapter (Northern Virginia) of the American Wine Society (AWS) was in town to bike with friends and wanted to know where they should taste wines. 

(Some history here: Back in the Fall of 2019, I presented Monterey wines to their AWS chapter at Pearmund Cellars in Broad Run, VA.  Doug previously had seen me present our local wines at the Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar.  It was a fun venue – right among the winery’s barrels.  He says I’m invited back; maybe I’ll do it again next fall!)

Back to my story: I always ask people what kind of wines they like so I can recommend the right spots – do they like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (what Monterey is widely known for) – or are they looking for something else?  His answer was BIG REDS – and they only wanted to go to one spot. I decided to take them to Parsonage, even though I had just been there the week before. 

Doug was accompanied by Mike Wassenberg,  his AWS chapter Vice-Chair, and their biking buddy/wine drinking/nice guy friend Mark Svedlund from Sebastopol. We were unexpectedly joined by Bill Parsons, who just happened to be in the tasting room when we dropped by.  It was a warm afternoon in Carmel Valley Village and my companions were a bit wilted from their bike ride. Nice guy Mark fetched cheese and bread and Bill provided colorful narrative to the wines.

Bill Parsons holding court with our Virginia visitors. Alex Lallos from Chesebro Wines joined us at the end.

Today, I am presenting 5 Parsonage wines – 3 from our tasting that day  and 2 library wines from our personal collection which were tasted separately. Last week’s post included combined tasting notes for 3 wines we tasted with this group and our barrel tasting buddies – the 2018 Estate Syrah, the 2018 Rocco and the 2017 Xandro.  We tasted 5 other wines which I have previously presented here – they are not included! Winery notes come from their website and tasting sheet.

I’ve written about Parsonage to in many prior posts and won’t repeat “about them” here (just type “Parsonage” in the search bar to see them all). You can check out their website here:  https://www.parsonagewine.com/.                           

2018 Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $48 (#541*)

Winery Notes: “The nose promises richness with its ripe bing cherries and that rare, fully vine-ripe raspberry that you’d get at a farmer’s market. The bouquet carries a mysterious spice akin to baking spices with a trace of black tea. The red fruit shows up in a big way on the palate – very rich and dense on the long, full, and delicious finish.”

My Review: Beautiful deep ruby in color. Cherry on the nose.  Chewy palate with a touch of acidity.  Darker, richer than a typical Monterey Pinot Noir – we liked it.  October 2021

2014 Parsonage Cyrano Red Wine, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $26 (#542*) Merlot, Syrah blend

My Review: From our cellar: Stunning bouquet.  Very big, jammy cherry-berry nose.  Rich, dark berries on the palate and anise on the finish.  Still drinking well. October 2021

2001 Parsonage Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $125 (#543*)

My Review: From our cellar: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berries in the nose with prune notes (at first, sulfur, which died down to a slight cooked prunes smell.) Big mouthfeel and bursting with blackberry with cola and tobacco flavors. Still something on the finish – like cooked fruit and tobacco. This wine could go another 5 years or so. October 2021

2018 Parsonage Bixby Reserve, Carmel Valley, 15%, $80 (#544*) Petit Verdot/Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

My Review: Wow! Dusty on the nose. Pretty, intense dark fruit – berry and cherry on the palate and milk chocolate on the finish. I become a bigger fan of this wine each year! October 2021

2008 Parsonage “Snosrap” Cyrano Bordelaise Red Wine, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $90 (#545)

My Review: This Bordeaux blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This was the last wine we tasted, so my notes are very weak.  I think Bill said “hoisin sauce.”  This wine was rather tasty and I took a bottle home! We are looking forward to tasting it again soon. October 2021

Parsonage is open for tastings by reservation only every day – click here for the details.  You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Parsonage’s Repertoire: from Serious Library Estate Wines to a “Downright weird” Blend!

Parsonage Valley Vineyard (photo taken Spring 2019)

On this Ides of March, I wanted to present two completely different (opposite?) Parsonage wines. When we first met Frank Melicia, we knew he made serious wines.  But he also is a bit of an innovator who tries new things, so he makes some fun blends, too.  I’m bringing you one of each in today’s post!

I’ve presented Parsonage to you in several prior posts and won’t repeat about them here (just type “Parsonage” in the search bar to see them all). You can check out their website here:  https://www.parsonagewine.com/.

Bill Parsons always has a story and here is the story he shared with me about our first wine, the 2008 Parsonage Estate Syrah:

“The (2008) vintage was our most celebrated and sought after in our then ten year existence. As great as the Estate version was, the Carmelstone and Rocco (Syrahs) were even greater.

“Back then Arvid Singh was the sommelier at the Sardine Factory. Ted Balesteri tasted my wines at a fundraiser at Holman Ranch and asked to set up a tasting with Arvid. I did. It was the craziest tasting I’ve ever done. I opened the Estate and the Carmelstone while he looked for his small spittoon. After he found it I poured one ounce of each. He swirled and sniffed for a long time, then took in a mouthful. He gurgled a bit, then swallowed. He asked me for another shot. I complied. He repeated the ritual two more times without spitting. I asked him what the spittoon was for. He said that all of his career he had always spit. Then he said, ‘but it would be sacrilege to expectorate the greatest Syrah he had ever tasted.’

“I laughed and said, ‘Yeah, very funny.’ It was obvious that I thought he was joking and he got quite angry at me. This was very serious stuff to him. I could probably write several hundred words describing our back and forth. The gist of it was that I challenged the idea that he had an olfactory version of eidetic memory. He said, for instance, 20 years ago he had tasted a Penfolds Grange and thought it to be the greatest he ever tasted until the Parsonage. I said, ‘The Grange isn’t here to defend its ranking.’ He said he had total olfactory recall of every great wine he had ever tasted. I called bullshit on him and he was really pissed at me.

“Finally I apologized and we kissed and made up.😎 When he tasted the Carmelstone it was more of the same, even greater than the Estate. He wanted to buy a lot more than I was willing to sell him.

“Later, I reflected on our tasting and what I had learned. I learned that Arvid and I have identical palates when it comes to Syrah because we both thought the 2008 was the best we ever tasted.

“As a footnote Arvid said, ‘The Grange is not even worthy of being on the same shelf with your Syrah.’ I thought he was a bit harsh on the famous Aussie Shiraz.”

2008 Parsonage Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $90 ($36 release price) (#261*)

The 2008 Parsonage Syrah is a staff favorite – perhaps one of the very best vintages.

Winemaker Notes:  “The vintage was our most celebrated and sought after in our then ten year existence. As great as the Estate version was, the Carmelstone and Rocco were even greater…What a bomb!  This is quite likely our biggest estate syrah ever.  It’s more like a reserve Carmelstone or Rocco from other vintages.  The nose comes with a blast of blueberry, blackberry, curry spices and cocoa.  The color is pure garnet ink.  The mouth feel is monumental with layers of very dark fruit, exotic spice and French oak barrel brulee. The expected signature notes of mineral and game along with hints of liquer and Amarone deliver on an exceedingly long and dramatic finish.”

My Review: Very dark in the glass with dark fruit on the nose to match. Rich dark flavors of black currant and cassis on the palate. Pretty yummy, but clearly should have been consumed some time back.  Definitely need to decant and drink these older wines! March 2021

2016 Parsonage Wild Card, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $38 (#262*)

2016 was the year of the Soberanes Fire affecting Carmel Valley fruit; grapes for this wine were sourced from all over Monterey County.

Winemaker Notes:  “Downright weird from Frank’s twilight zone.  It really shouldn’t work but it does every time eight years running. Syrah, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Pinot Noir, oh my. It’s yummy and if you want to make the effort you can pick out the character of each varietal.”

My Review: Deep beautiful red in color. Plum, berry and caramel on the nose. Maybe toast notes, but that could be my popcorn. Intense fruit up from on the palate – bursting with red and black berry. A little touch of smoke and tobacco on the finish. Pleasant surprise!! February 2021

  • Photo courtesy of Parsonage
Parsonage’s Beautiful Tasting Room and Outdoor Parklet!

Parsonage is open for tastings by reservation only every day – click here for the details.  You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

Where There’s Fire, There’s More Than Smoke Taint

Billowing Smoke from the Carmel Fire Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern

Over this past week, one fire after the other has sparked in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties, turning our sunny blue skies into a creepy gray and orange. Things are not normal. When the River Fire started burning this past Sunday, my first thought was our Santa Lucia Highland and Monterey AVA grapes all the way down the River Road Wine Trail. Alert after alert about residences being evacuated made this much more concerning and real – lives and homes at stake. When the Carmel Fire down east of Cachagua broke out on Tuesday, my worry turned to all my favorite Cachagua vintners – which I had just talked about in this blog. And to my friends who live in the valley. This fire goes well beyond smoke taint as residents, including our vintner friends, are evacuating and their wineries are being threatened of destruction. And then there is the Bonny Doon Fire up in Santa Cruz, with its evacuees sheltering in my little town and its smoke turning our skies so strange, with our sun at times appearing red. These fire threaten more than a single vintage – they threaten residences – including vintners and their families, entire vineyards, wineries, inventory, and years of production. Let us hope they can be contained.

Carmel Valley Smokey Sunset Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern

I had planned to take a moment out of regular wine reviews to talk about what happens when things don’t go right.  But I wasn’t expecting them to go so devastatingly badly.  This is a retrospective of the impact of fire and smoke of what happened to wine production when the Soberanes fire hit Big Sur in 2016.  What happened in 2016 will now look like a blip compared to what I expect will be the damage from these August 2020 fires.  I only know of one winery which sustained direct fire damage from the 2016 Soberanes Fire. 

The 2016 Soberanes Fire started in July from an illegal campfire, before the grapes were fully mature, but it kept going through October, growing to a 90,000-acre fire.  The smoke from this fire was intense throughout the region, but only a single Monterey County AVA suffered the smoke damage – Carmel Valley AVA.  I became obsessed with learning more about the impact of this fire and what steps my usual wineries took as a result. 

First, I had to discover why just Carmel Valley.  After much research, I came up with 2 primary reasons.  First, the location, with Carmel Valley just north of the fire.  Second, the Monterey Bay’s 2-mile deep Submarine Canyon.  The winds off the Monterey Bay are stronger in the other AVAs, as it goes swooping down the Salinas Valley all the way down and throughout even the most southern AVAs.  Those winds just lightly creep into Carmel Valley. 

What did the Carmel Valley wineries do?  Many wineries tossed their fruit, some bottled it anyway to capture the unique flavors, some blended smoke tainted juice with juice from another AVA and changed their maturation techniques, some only offer their smokey wine if you inquire about it in the tasting room and refuse to sell it if you haven’t tasted it – know what you are buying, or they instead sourced grapes from one of the other AVAs.

I presented a class for the Northern Virginia American Wine Society last fall and I challenged them to identify what was so different between two 2016 Syrahs – same vintage, different Monterey AVAs:  one from Arroyo Seco and one from Carmel Valley.  I didn’t tell them about the fire.  There were a lot of guesses around the room, but only Chris Pearmund, the owner/vintner of Pearmund Cellars, guessed right:  smoke.

The wines aren’t ruined – they are interesting, different.  A high-quality smoke tainted wine can still be a very good wine.  And sometimes only a discerning palate will figure out it is smoke taint.  They are surprised I can detect it on the nose or palate, saying I am especially sensitive to it – but maybe it is simply because I know it is there.  Some wines might taste a little like ham hock, while others might leave a stronger aftertaste of smoke or ash.  It doesn’t dissipate over time – it will never truly go away.  And you might appreciate the wine because it represents a moment in time when things didn’t go right, yet the winery had the guts to produce it anyway. 

As an example, we were consumers of the Bernardus Marinus 2008 because it was special.  And Parsonage boldly made their 2016 wines – either sourcing fruit differently, blending it, or maturing it in neutral oak.  Sometimes when I taste their 2016 Rocco Reserve Syrah, I notice it more – as if you are at a camp fire, roasting S’Mores.  Recently, we decanted the Rocco and barely detected any smoke taint at all – just its usual deliciousness.  And smoke taint is barely detectible – sometimes not detectible at all – in their 2016 Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Clever winemaking techniques saved these precious 2016 Parsonage Reserves

My advice is be an educated consumer – know which vintage you are drinking and which AVA your grapes are coming from if you are looking at wines from a region affected by fire.  Read the reviews, taste before buying if you can, and figure out for yourself if you like it or not.  It is all subjective!

The tasting rooms throughout the valley were just recovering from the lack of 2016 wines to pour to guests.  They were just starting to roll out their post-fire wines when they were shut down for COVID and some later reopened on an outdoor tasting/curbside pickup basis only.  While there is never a good time for a devastating fire like this, I can’t think of a worse time.  I believe everything in Carmel Valley Village and River Road down to Arroyo Seco is shut down right now.  Give our vintners some space and let’s hope and pray not everything is destroyed. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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