Tagged: 2015

Wrath: Harnessing Angry Fog and Screaming Winds to Create Great Wines

I recently had a marvelous isolation birthday.  Beautiful walks, swimming, mahjongg on the patio, all followed by appetizers and a gourmet meal prepared by my favorite chef in my own home.  A wine was decanted – to my delight it was the 2015 Wrath Syrah.   Yum.  A few days later was Cinco de Mayo and we had a little party planned – takeout from Mando’s, our local Mexican joint, and margaritas!  Right before dinner, the UPS man arrived with our order of the 2016 Wrath Syrah and, for science, we had to taste it – but after our party.

We are venturing out of Arroyo Seco AVA and to the north to the Monterey AVA – the heart of the Salinas Valley.  According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association, the Monterey AVA was established 1984. Thanks to the local climate, it enjoys one of the longest growing seasons in the world, with a wide range of microclimates influenced by the Monterey Bay. The afternoon winds cool down the vineyards and the maritime fog keeps the temperatures from falling too low.  Over 50% of the grapes grown are Chardonnay. 

This area has been suffering the fires and smoke from the ongoing River Fire and I expect we will hear reporting soon from the damage.

The Vineyards of the Monterey AVA from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Webpage

We got to know Wrath years ago, as one of their tasting rooms is centrally located in the Carmel Shopping Plaza right off Ocean Avenue in quaint Carmel-By-The-Sea.  It was always a fun place to drop in to taste some great wines.  In the Spring of 2019, we took a family road trip down the River Road Wine Trail through the Salinas Valley to their winery and main tasting room in Soledad – it was the highlight of our trip.  The plan was to go back there in March 2020 with our new friends and have a picnic there.  Sigh…someday.  While their Syrah has always been one of my favorites, they make great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and I featured their delicious 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class.

About Wrath Wines from their website:  “Wrath is in the wall of maritime fog that rolls into the Salinas Valley and the relentless afternoon winds that scream through our grape trellises. Wrath wines represent a nexus of nature and an unbridled passion for winemaking.”  This description refers to the harsh conditions created by the cold waters of the Monterey Bay and the afternoon winds that come screaming even down my street and fog (like the heavy bank which rolled in last evening), reminding me daily that those winds and fog serve a purpose – to help us make great wine.

San Saba Vineyard Photo from our March 2019 Visit

A bit about the San Saba Vineyard from Wrath: “Our Estate San Saba Vineyard is set in a sheltered nook just below the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The estate consists of 72 acres of which 67.75 are planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Falanghina. This is a cool site with little rainfall and one of the longest growing seasons in the world. Our soils, Arroyo Gravelly Loam and Hanford Gravely Sandy Loam, provide a low-vigor, well-draining, disease- and pest-free medium for our vines. They also impart a subtle mineral quality to our wines…”

2017 Wrath EX Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey AVA, 13% ABV $20

This Sauvignon Blanc represented Monterey white wines very well for my Northern Virginia AWS class. Product photo from Wrath website.

About the EX Label: “Wrath is proud to announce the release of EX wines, our updated label that replaces the Ex Anima series. With a name meaning “out of” in Latin, EX speaks to our focus on expressing the personality and characteristics of our Certified Sustainable (SIP) estate vineyard. We harvest grapes at two different ripeness levels and then blend lots together to create a wine that encapsulates the best qualities of each lot. fermentation and aging take place in stainless tanks.”

The 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc is bright and vibrant with pronounced guava and gooseberries.  1023 cases produced.

Wine Enthusiast Review: ” Freshly cut lawn, wet cement, sour lime rinds, and kelp combine for a very unique and compelling nose on this bottling. The nose extends to the palate, where white pepper and crushed white-rock flavors make for a memorable sip.” 90 pts, Matt Kettmann, November 2018 

2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#38*)

The 2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard is a big, chewy wine, rated 90 points.

Review by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Advocate: “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Syrah San Saba Vineyard has a beguiling seaweed, dried Provence herbs and green tea nose over a core of black and red cherries, mulberries and garrigue. Full-bodied and firmly structured with chewy tannins, it has loads of earthy appeal and a long pepper and herbs-laced finish.”  90 points

My Review: This is one of our favorite Monterey wines and this vintage was excellent.  The color was incredibly dense and the flavors match the look. IMHO, this wine deserves a higher rating!

2016 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#41*)

The 2016 Wrath Syrah from the San Saba Vineyard received a well-deserved 95 point rating!

From Wrath Wines regarding the Wrath 2016 Syrah: “Grapes are hand harvested and hand sorted. Clonal lots are kept separate during fermentation. All our single vineyard syrahs use a similar whole cluster fermentation (20%) and oak regimen. This helps highlight the individual personality of each vineyard. After on-site bottling, the wine rests for another 12 months of bottle aging before release.”  100% French oak, 45% new.  298 cases were produced.

Wrath says this about the 2016 Syrah San Saba Vineyard:  “Powerful and elegant, aromatics include blackberry, leather and peppercorns; the palate is rich and concentrated with graphite, cassis, and a hint of smoke.” Jeb Dunnuck rated this wine 95 points! I would have to agree!!

My Review:  We found the 2016 Syrah to be similar to the 2015 in taste – very dense red with blueberry and blackberry on the nose.  Delicious smooth palate of alcohol-laced, dancing bright and dark fruits – berries and plums, lingering finish.  I highly recommend this wine if you are a Syrah fan. 

Wrath offers free ground shipping on case purchases of its wine, which you can purchase from its website. 

The San Francisco Chronicle published a list of the Top 10 Things to do in Monterey and Wrath’s tasting room is included in that list.  For more information on tasting Wrath wines, click here.  According to Wrath’s website, as of September 5th: “Inside tastings may be banned for now but at the winery tasting room, we have a large outdoor patio that is perfect for safe spacing and sampling our wines while enjoying the views. We are 5 minutes west of Hwy 101 and 20 minutes south of Salinas, off River Road.  In Carmel, we have moved our tasting room outside onto the center courtyard of Carmel Plaza (Ocean & Mission).  We don’t have a large amount of seating but we do have a nice fire pit to stay cozy on those foggy days that Carmel is so famous for.” 

Please give them a call to confirm, especially during these times of COVID and the River Fire – 831-620-1909.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Blair: the Small but Mighty Delfina’s Vineyard

2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14% ABV, 175 cases produced, List Price:  $26, 216 cases produced

We have a fondness for Blair and stop into their tasting room in Carmel Plaza from time to time.  We mostly go because it bears the maiden name of a good friend.  And, about half the time, we’ve found Jeffrey Blair behind the counter.  If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a good place to try.  Its wines are getting favorable marks in various competitions, with the 2016 vintage of their Pinot Gris scoring 91 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

In general, we really like Arroyo Seco wines, with sandy loam and cobblestones in the dry river beds.  Here, cold winds off nearby Monterey Bay (the Blue Grand Canyon™) can make it “wind-blown and numbingly cold” as Mercy Wines describes it, yet somehow perfect growing conditions. We like Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (did I really say that?), Grenache, and Syrah.  You will hear more about them as I continue my trek through the Arroyo Seco AVA.

Matt Kettmann wrote an excellent article, The Hidden Treasures of Monterey in Wine Enthusiast which includes a nice writeup about Blair.

2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris

The 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris was Blair’s third Pinot Gris release from the Arroyo Seco AVA.  Unfortunately, winemaking notes not readily available, since this is not the current release.  Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast, describes it like this: “Lemon cream, honeydew, honeysuckle and toast aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is a citrusy boost to the palate, where orange-sorbet and lemon-spritz flavors arise.”

My Review: We tasted this wine before I was brave enough to do my own tasting notes.  I asked my resident wine expert what he thought about the 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris.  His response, “I opened the Chardonnay for cooking – it was fine!”  Hm. Yes, well, it was a delicious Pinot Gris, always a pleasant change from Chardonnay.  We did see it should have been consumed by 2018, yet it was perfectly delicious.  March 2020

Check out Blair Wines for their current releases.  They have a very nice tasting room in Carmel Plaza (Carmel-By-The-Sea). Their website suggests the tasting room is open every day, but always best to call ahead and confirm: (831) 625-WINE, especially during the fire emergency, much less the pandemic. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Rombi: Bold, Distinctive Fruit Wrapped in Elegance

We saw the big Rombi sign tucked away in the shopping center just off Carmel Valley Road, just behind Boekenoogen Vineyards, and knew we had to stop in.  His brother previously owned Joe Rombi’s – a restaurant in our beloved Pacific Grove, where my father-in-law was always treated like he was someone special.  Rombi is typically only open on the weekends, so it took us a while to catch him in.  We were so delighted finally to meet Sal Rombi, pouring wine for his guests.  An amicable fellow, Sal loves sharing his wines and stories with those who walk in the door to learn about his wines.  And he always treats us as though we are his special, dearest friends. 

Sal Rombi’s grapes are grown on his estate, the Carmel Valley Vineyard, down in Cachagua (pronounced “Cah-Shaw-wah,” Sal reminds me – loosely meaning “hidden waters”).  The backs of his elegant bottles say this: “Carmel Valley Vineyard is at the pinnacle of the Carmel Valley Appellation.  Located atop the ridge line at an elevation of 1650’ its orientation captures the cooling marine influences nightly.  The vineyard is hand tended with sustainable practices.  The well drained rocky soil creates balanced vines with limited yields of superior fruit that produce exceptional wine.” You can read more about Sal and Rombi wines in this fun SFGate article: Monterey: Salvatore Rombi, one man winemaker of Carmel Valley.

While many vintners make their wines in a style approachable and drinkable now, Rombi’s wines are the type you definitely want to cellar and decant before drinking.  Both his Cabernets and Merlots are huge, complex wines, with his Cabernet Sauvignon referred to as the best in the valley – all from his tiny estate vineyard of about 2 acres.  Cachagua’s chalky and sandy soil and its warm days and cool, foggy nights make this a great place for a vineyard. 

These wines are great not just due to their location: Sal’s attentive farming and winemaking make them different from any other in the valley.  More than half of the Carmel Valley Vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon.  He matures this wine in French oak barrels, 50% new and 50%, 1-year old, for 18 months.  We always have to resist the temptation to open his wines too soon. 

Today I am presenting 5 Rombi wines which we have tasted during the Shelter-In-Place Order.  Yes, we’ve been busy!  Sal has offered to replace the wines I review the next time I see him (whenever that will be!) – very generous of him. 

2011 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85

I asked Sal about the 2011 growing season.  He indicated it was a good season – one in which “nothing weird” happened.  This was also his 5th year of production, so he felt he was really hitting his stride.  I told him we really had to let this wine open up before we experienced the delicious, distinctive fruit we remembered from his 2015 vintage.  He reminded me that one must always, always decant his wines.  And we will, going forward. Rombi = BIG WINES! 

My Review: Beautiful deep ruby color. After it opened up, plum and cassis backed by complex tannins on the nose.  Cherry and some tartness on the palate, with the acidity balanced out by lovely round, dark berry fruit flavors. It finishes dry, dotted with spearmint and tobacco notes. Next time, we will decant this wine as he recommends!  This is an excellent Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – delicious fruit. July 2020

Rombi 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85

My Review: The 2012 is the older, leaner version of the 2015 (below). The nose has mint and herbal notes.  Very similar in flavors, with less of the up-front fruit. The palate shows dark fruit, a bit vegetal and spicy, very smooth with some tobacco, tar and licorice on the finish.  May 2020

The 2012 and 2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignons

Rombi 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85

Back in March when we were first sheltering on place, I had to (yes, had to) go to the valley to pick up my Rombi allotment.  While I was there, Sal gave me a half bottle of his 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon in advance of its release.  Nice. 

After I tasted this wine, I got Sal on the phone to talk about the 2015 growing season.  Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain.  This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season.  Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious wine.  That explains why this vintage is so delicious. 

My Review: This is a fruit-forward, jammy wine. The 2015 has a lot of fruit up front.  Blueberry and cassis with chai notes on the nose.  The palate is jammy with cassis and blackberry and a touch of mint and leather.  The tannins are surprisingly balanced at this young age. May 2020

2011 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley, 14% ABV, ~$60                         

Merlot is finally overcoming its Sideways stigma. This Rombi is a huge Merlot, probably unlike any you have tasted.  I did ask Sal for winemaker’s notes since nothing is publicly available on this vintage, but he preferred to let the wine speak for itself.   Instead, he sent me pictures of an apple pie he was baking, with these notes: “I’m picking up a bit of spice a bit of nutmeg and cinnamon a toasty sweetness the French would say tartartan!”  Thanks a lot, Sal. 

The 2011 Rombi Merlot definitely wanted to be decanted!

My Review: “The color is a beautiful beet, dark cherry red.  A slightly sweet aroma of blackberry and dark plum, with cassis and caramel notes.  Complex blackberry flavors jump out of the glass, with medium tannins and bit of tartness on the mid-palate, finishing with a touch of cranberry.”   April 2020

2013 Rombi Estate Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $65

I have to eat my words.  Recently, I was reading a consumer’s review about Rombi wines indicating a specific wine was no comparison to a Napa.  I responded with the point that it is from Carmel Valley and should taste like a Carmel Valley wine.  Well, now I stand corrected.  Everything about this Merlot stands up to a Napa Merlot – from bouquet to palate to finish.

My Review: Deep ruby, almost purple in color. A rich, brambly high-quality bouquet (kind of Zin-like – my husband looks at me askance).  This is a BIG WINE of dense dark berry on the palate, opening to a very smooth and voluptuous wine – like a Napa wine.  Touch of tar, mint and cedar on the finish.  Fabulous wine.  July 2020

Rombi’s tasting room is located at 1 Center Street, Carmel Valley Village.  Sal has created a relaxing, quiet spot to taste his big wines just in front of his tasting room.   Open Saturday-Sunday 12-5 p.m.  You can learn more about his wines online at Rombi Wines.  You can also contact Kathy and Sal at kathy@rombiwines.com or sal@rombiwines.com for more information about tasting or buying wine. 

© Decanting Monterey 2023

2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua

2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $25-39

81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Pinot Noir, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3 % Malbec, < 1% Merlot, Petite Sirah & Petit Verdot

Massa Estate Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village

When we first started to visit Carmel Valley for its wines, we used to stop at a place called Heller Estate.  It was the first tasting room on the left.  Back then, we remember buying half bottles of delicious Durney Cabernet Sauvignon.  Durney Vineyards produced wine from roughly 1979-1996.  Heller Estate bought out Durney ~1996 and, in recent years (~2017), Bill Massa, a long-time Salinas farmer, bought the estate.   When we saw the name change on the tasting room, we stopped in, talked to Laurie Massa, and picked up this 2015 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.    

Cachagua (cah-SHAH-wah) is part of the Carmel Valley AVA.  From Monterey County Vintners & Producers: “Cachagua Valley’s unique mountainous setting sits high above the fog-line along the coast and exposes the grapes to a warmer overall climate. Average summer temperatures can reach into the 100’s with cool evenings dropping into the low 30’s and 40’s. This dramatic swing in temperature extends the ripening time and growing season, allowing the grapes a slow maturation process for eventual complexity in the fruit and the wine.”  Wineries with vineyards in Cachagua include Bernardus, Galante, Georis, Joullian, Massa (Heller), and Rombi.  I will be presenting wines from Cachagua first!

The Current Massa Estate Tasting Lineup

Massa Estate describes this region and wine as follows:  “Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” meaning ‘hidden waters’), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful mountain vineyards of the Heller Estate. The 120 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir are planted at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet, producing rich, luscious grapes, which result in outstanding premium wines. The vineyards are certified 100% organic…” According to the winery, 2015 was a tough growing season, marked by continuing drought and a cold, windy, cloudy May.  The mild summer helped compensate, enhancing the fruit’s color in its Bordeaux varietals. 

Love this “Dances On Your Palate” label!

This wine spent 20 months in oak barrels.  Massa describes this wine as follows:  Aroma of “juicy berries such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry with hints of bay laurel, earthiness and spice…Cassis and blackberry greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. On the finish there are notes of dark chocolate and mocha. Pair this wine with braised stuffed cabbage rolls, roasted root vegetables or a juicy hamburger topped with sautéed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”

My review: Dense, dark red color.  Nose brimming with cherry, with oak and yeasty notes.  Bursting with dark fruit on palate (cassis and blackberry) with pleasant acidity.  Solid tannic structure, with the oak coming through.  A bit earthy.

You can taste and purchase this wine at the Massa Estate Tasting Room at 69 W Carmel Valley Rd, Carmel Valley.  They have a lovely outdoor patio and you can also order from Chef Michael Jones’ menu for patio dining or carry-out.  1000Corks lists this wine as available primarily in the New York area for $22-24 plus tax and shipping. 

Lovely, Relaxing Setting at Massa Estate’s Tasting Room
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