Tagged: 2017

Turley Pesenti: Another Reason to Love Paso Robles Wines

Way back when, when we used to get down to the Paso Robles AVA for wine tasting, we “discovered” Pesenti as having some fabulous reds for reasonable prices.  When my favorite Zin producer Larry Turley took them over in 2000, it gave us some acknowledgement that we were not the only ones who thought Pesenti Vineyards produced great fruit! I am presenting two Zinfandels and one Petite Sirah in this post. 

I confess I am a Turley girl – 1/5 of my wines cellar is Turley…

2016 Turley Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard, Paso Robles, 15.% ABV, $38* (#190**)

We thoroughly enjoyed this 2016 Pesenti Zin!

About Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel: “This certified organic estate-owned vineyard was planted in the 1920’s on primarily limestone soil. Though the vines are head-trained and dry-farmed, the soil plays the most important role in distinguishing this vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles. The wines have a brightness, with chalk and floral aromas unique to the site, and to Zinfandel in general…With the calcaerous limestone and the occasional carignane vine interplanted with Zinfandel, the Pesenti Zin takes on a unique brightness leading to a “sweet-tart-esque” character.” 

Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “Yields were down once again in Paso Robles, though luckily in 2016 we started to see the slightest bit of relief, rain-wise. As a result, the Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel is deeply concentrated yet refreshing. The tart red fruits on the initial nose are present as always, followed by Pesenti’s signature bright acidity and smooth tannin. The wine has a refined yet approachable palate presence, complemented by plenty of lift from the calcareous Pesenti soils, carrying through to a long invigorating finish.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate  – 93 Points: “From a site Turley owns in Paso Robles, the 2016 Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard exhibits a boisterous, fruit-driven bouquet of ripe raspberries, cherries and kirsch. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and generous, with tangy acids and fine structuring tannins largely concealed in a sweet core of fruit, tangy acids, light structuring tannins asserting themselves on the back end. It’s one of the most charming and immediate of this year’s single-vineyard bottlings.”

My Review: We drank this post-debate and finished the whole bottle without any difficulty. Deep garnet in the glass,  blackberry and white pepper on the nose. Spicy blackberry, dark cherry and currant on the palate. A complex mix of jammy goodness with a touch of leather on the finish. There is really good fruit throughout in this wine. As it opened up, that fruit became rounder and deeper. This was a great vintage of this wine. (September 2020)

2017 Turley Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard, Paso Robles, 15.8% ABV, $38* (#98**)

We want to try this one again – perhaps decanted.

Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “Vibrant and always distinctive, the Pesenti Zinfandel makes its spring lineup debut! Fragrant red fruits, black raspberry, chalk dust, piquant spices and wild flowers all flourish on the nose. Lush yet linear on the palate, with fresh, lively acidity and profound depth. Intensely pleasurable now, and will age well.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate   – 93 points: “The Pesenti vineyard was planted in the 1920s on limestone soils. Deep ruby in color, the 2017 Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard gives savory notes of charcuterie over dried brambly fruits and crushed black cherries with hints of dried soil. Medium to full-bodied, it offers savory-laced fruits in the mouth with soft, grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing long with pretty dried flowers notes. 2,400 cases produced.”

My Review: SweeTart on the nose with raspberry and bright fruits.  This high-alcohol wine seemd a bit volatile on the palate with a bit of harshness and leather on the finish.  This wine might need a bit more time in the bottle or more aeration upon opening. July 2020

2017 Turley Petite Syrah Pesenti Vineyard, Paso Robles, 14.8% ABV, $38* (#191**)

Wine Advocate rated this wine 98 points!

About Pesenti Vineyard Petite Syrah: “This estate-owned and certified organic vineyard was planted by the Turley team using cuttings from the Hayne vineyard. Head-trained, dry-farmed and planted in limestone, the wines are dark, smooth, dense and classic Petite Syrah.  As the vines age the wines are increasingly expressive of the Pesenti Vineyard with minerality, savory spices and high tone pepper.”

Winemaker Notes from wine.com: “If, like us, you are fans of the wines of the Northern Rhone Valley—Cornas in particular—then you’ll love the 2017 Pesenti Petite Syrah as much as we do! Lightly smoked, ripe dark fruits with fresh cracked pepper on the nose. The palate is surprisingly graceful despite its powerful heft, thanks to the excellent acidity in the soils. Dense, inky, and loaded with spice, the Pesenti Petite is a bold, deeply flavorful, and satisfying wine. We recommend giving it some time in the bottle and decanting well ahead of mealtime to best experience this powerful Petite.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate  – 98 points: “The 2017 Petite Syrah Pesenti Vineyard was bottled three weeks before I tasted it but is nonetheless showing beautifully. It has a very deep purple-black, opaque color and nose of crème de cassis, black cherry liqueur, cracked black pepper, bacon fat, savory green and black olive, violet, lilac, perfumed earth and tons of blue fruit jam notes. Full-bodied, rich and savory, it features wonderful black and blue fruit layers with tons of floral and savory perfume, very firm, chewy tannins, great freshness and a very long, savory finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark ruby in color.  Blackberry and blueberry with a little brown sugar and rosemary on the nose.  Full palate of dark, jammy fruit and black pepper with a slight bitterness on the finish. Truly a favorite. August 2020

*The price above is what we paid via their mailing list.  They are offering some specials to anyone on their Remote Purchases website with the following notes:   “At this time, we are allowing for both shipping and appointment-based pick-up orders in our Paso Robles tasting room. Please review our Shipping & Pick-up Information in advance of your order.  Note: if you are shipping outside of CA, we strongly recommend a minimum 6 bottle order, to maximize shipping efficiency, cost and safety (we can only include ice packs in 6 bottle and higher shippers).”

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

Joyce Wine Company: “SMALL LOT WINES FROM MONTEREY CALIFORNIA, WITH BALANCE, FINESSE AND FOCUS”

We stopped in at Joyce Vineyards’ tasting room in December 2019 on a hunt for a Merlot for my next class.  I stumbled upon a great deal for their James Joyce Merlot, as well as the 2017 Cabernet.  We lucked into some specials for both of these wines.  James is winemaker Russell Joyce’s middle name – they produced both a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with their sideways label – the label is literally sideways and a bit of a play on the movie, “Sideways.”  Watch them for different Bordeaux blends, depending on yield, especially from their tiny Carmel Valley Estate Vineyard. 

These December 2019 prices were bargains for such nice quality wines.

About Joyce Wine Company: “Joyce Wine Company is the result of family interest in Monterey Country’s diverse terroir.  With minimalistic cellar practices and on-site production, our goal is to produce wines with balance, finesse and focus while exploring the endless potential of the coastal terroir in Monterey County…Joyce Vineyards began as a chance planting by Francis Joyce in 1989 on a steep hillside in Carmel Valley. Joyce Wine Company now tells the stories of Monterey County’s unique terroir through Francis’ son Russell Joyce, a second generation winemaker who grew up working amongst the vines at the family’s estate. Russell showcases the area’s premier AVAs in a classic and minimal approach to winemaking. He utilizes this approach to create wines of purity and elegance while focusing on the local varietals grown in Monterey County and its surroundings.”

Joyce Wine Company produces about 8,000 cases annually in the same Salinas industrial park as Ian Brand, and sources grapes from some of our best known vineyards across the Central Coast, primarily Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey, and San Benito AVAs. 

“San Benito County lies along the San Andreas Fault just beneath the Gabilan Mountain Range; neighboring Monterey County. The calcareous soils combined with warm days and mild nights provide the ideal growing conditions for Bordeaux varietals. The Teague Vineyard uses minimal irrigation, producing grapes with great intensity and concentration.”

2017 James Joyce Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30  80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec (#20*)

The distinctive “Sideways” label for their 2017 James Joyce Cabernet!

Winemaker Notes (website):  The 2017 James Joyce Cabernet comes from the Teague Vineyard, planted against the Diablo Mountain Range.  The soil is heavy clay and loam.  With minimal irrigation, the roots are stressed to dig deep for water.  Bordeaux varietals grow well in this climate of warm days and mild nights.   For this Cabernet, the “grapes were 100% destemmed and left on the skins with minimal extended maceration 7 days past dryness and full fermentation.” The Cabernet Sauvignon took longer to ferment.  “The wine was aged on heavy leas for 16 months and no new French oak was used.  Never fined or filtered.” 1000 cases of this wine were produced. 

According to www.wine.com, the winemaker described this wine as: “In addition to the blackberry base, minty herbs and leather, this offers a strong woody character and pine needle aromas. The very dry black-currant fruit is awash in flavors of dill, savory black pepper and black olive.” 

My Review: “Classic!” my daughter says. This wine is very dark ruby in color, with a mocha-plum nose and a refreshing and smooth plum and cassis on the palate.  It is a nice wine one could enjoy every day. 

2016 James Joyce Merlot, Central Coast, 13.9% ABV, $25 (181*)  90% Merlot 5% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Cabernet Franc

My DC friends got to enjoy this case of wine I had purchased for my Fall 2020 wine class, indefinitely postponed!

Winemaker’s Notes (condensed from the Tech Sheet): The Merlot grapes were harvested by hand, “…destemmed, and placed in small open top fermenters where they were cold soaked for 4-5 days before fermentation began naturally.  Primary fermentation lasted between 14-18 days before the wine was drained and the must gently pressed.  The wine was then transferred to 100% neutral French oak barrels where it finished malolactic fermentation.  Once this fermentation was completed, a small sulfur addition was made and the wine was left to age sur lie for 16 months before being bottled un-fined and unfiltered.” 850 cases produced.

Tasting Notes from The Cave: “Aromatics: Plum, Black Cherry, Baking Spice. Palate: Lush & Supple, Bright Acidity, Velvety Tannins”

My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color. Cherry and a hint of caramel on the nose. Rich and bright, juicy cherry-berry on the palate, smooth tannins with lingering licorice and a touch of spearmint.

The Joyce Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village is open – make a reservation here.

You can buy Joyce wines from their web site, tasting room, and commercially marketed at www.wine.com and other websites and local markets. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

Eden Rift: East of Eden, Straddling the San Andreas Fault

Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited.  Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays. 

When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth.  Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t.  They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!

About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California.  Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA.  The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils.  Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860.  Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016.  Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”

From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay.  A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”

I am reviewing 4 Eden Rift wines in this blog post.

2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com

wine.com rated the 2018 rosé 92 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months.  Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”

wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019

My Review: Light pink in the glass.  Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose.  Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish.  I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)

IMHO, Chardonnay is truly the strong suit of Eden Rift.

Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”

Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.”  92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019

My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose.  Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)

wine.com rated the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir 95 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.”  91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass.  Dark berry notes on the nose.  Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness.  Well balanced.   A tasty wine. October 2020

2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)

The 2017 Zinfandel was very berry and enjoyable for what it is.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color.  Berry jam on the nose.  Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish.  We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate.  Still drinking well a week later.  I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons.  I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort.  October 2020

Their tasting room is open by appointment.  You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage: Onward to Monterey County and Beyond!

I first introduced you to Parsonage and its reserve wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/ and its non-reserve estate wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-back-to-the-estate-with-2017-releases/

Now we are going to get outside of Parsonage’s sweet spots of Carmel Valley and Arroyo Seco AVAs by presenting wines labeled “Monterey County” – and even “Central Coast”!  This post represents the beginning of our transition outside of Monterey County wines and into San Benito County, specifically to Paicines, which I will describe more in the next blog. 

I have 3 red blends for you today.  Sadly, two of them are already sold out – we will need to wait for the next vintage to be released! 

2017 Parsonage The Aussie Red Wine, 15% ABV, $38 (#15*) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Syrah

2017 The Aussie was so delicious, I had to go back and buy more.

From the Winemaker: “Our popular, magical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. We like to pair it with rack of lamb or duck. This is a big red wine.”

My Review: Blueberry, blackberry and earthy, with silky-smooth yet full tannins.  An elegantly balanced extended finish.  This wine is my kind of wine – I went back and picked up more!  Now it appears to be sold out.  April 2020

2017 Parsonage Wild Card Red Wine, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $38 (#85*)

“The Wild Card is a Complexity Bomb.”

From the Winemaker: “This is the tenth iteration of Frank’s wild and crazy idea to make an experimental blend from all of the varietals in our barrels. Forgive my failure to curb my enthusiasm but this 2017 Wild Card red wine is the best one yet!

“Each and every vintage has been fascinating and delicious, but 2017 wins by a landslide. This is the biggest, richest, most fascinating of all of them. As full-bodied as it is, it is still elegantly balanced. The Wild Card is a complexity bomb. Those six components of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, and Pinot Noir have fused in synergistic harmony to create some serious magic…

“The nose opens with a burst of floral and spice notes, star anise prominent, followed by hints of the full spectrum of red, blue, and black fruit and berries. The mouthfeel is full of texture with fine, ripe, silky tannins. All of the fruit reappears on the palate including red currant, pomegranate, raspberry, cherry, blueberry, and blackberry.

“By patient, vigilant mindfulness I can identify the constituent varietals one by one. Merlot with its foundation of cherry and red currant, Cabernet Sauvignon by its cassis and tannic backbone, Syrah from its savory hint of umami, Petit Verdot with its blueberry and drier finishing tannins, Grenache for its floral and spice notes, and finally, Pinot Noir for its bing cherry, cola and subtle Earl Grey black tea notes.”

My Review:  We tasted this wine along with all of the current releases back in June. We found this mélange of both Rhône and Bordeaux varietals to be refreshing.  With so many different grapes and flavors, we, however, couldn’t align it to distinct flavors as well as Parsonage could.  I was able to re-taste this wine with a friend in October.  Ruby in color, raspberry and currant on the nose, cherry and currant on the palate with a nice, lingering finish.  My friend enjoyed it so much she took two bottles home!

2017 Parsonage The BDL, Central Coast, 15% ABV, $42 (#173*)

The BDL sold out quickly – by fans who remembered its predecessor!

Winemaker’s Notes: “BDL is shorthand for Bordelais, a wildly popular (but illegally named) wine we produced years ago. This exquisite Bordeaux blend is 52 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 percent Merlot, and 8 percent each Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cab Franc. It has all the bells and whistles Bordeaux lovers expect from an elegantly balanced and much more expensive bottle that crosses the Atlantic to get here.” (This wine has some juice from Paicines AVA – I’m guessing the Malbec.) This wine sold out very quickly.

My Review: Very dense dark red in color.  Bodacious dark nose – sweet dark cherry and caramel.  Rich dark fruit on the palate, with some sweeter bright cherry fruit on the finish, bordering on a port-like finish.  Slightly vegetal with a little leather.  August 2020

You can obtain the Wild Card and other Parsonage wines directly from the winery here and pick them up at the tasting room or have them shipped to you.  Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5  and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.

The Parsonage wine tasting parklet is spacious and the staff, very attentive to CDC protocols.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage: Back to the Estate with 2017 Releases!

While Parsonage ingeniously sourced fruit from elsewhere in the aftermath of the 2016 Soberanes Fire, we are glad their 2017 vintages are being released! We tasted these wines at a soft-opening test of their COVID-19 social-distancing procedures back in June 2020. 

Parsonage learned a lot from our dry run of their pandemic tasting procedures. Heh.

Parsonage was the winery that showed us Carmel Valley could make the kinds of big reds I love and is the reason I am a Syrah fan these days.  In addition to the big Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah wines and blends, Parsonage makes some delicious, big Pinot Noirs – their Estate Pinot Noir (below) and their reserve “Hawk” Pinot Noir (reviewed here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/).

2017 Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $42 (#77*)

The Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir – their lightest red – is still a BIG wine!

Winemaker’s Notes: “While this is the lightest red we make, it’s still bigger than your average Pinot Noir. An easy drinker, this wine does not need to be paired with food. But we like it with roast chicken, salmon or even some cheese and crackers. We get ripe cranberry and a hint of Earl Grey tea. Mouth-watering acidity and elegance on the luscious vibrant finish.” This wine spent ~8 months in neutral oak. 

My Review: I’m not a big Pinot Noir fan, yet I really enjoy the richer style of Parsonage’s Pinots. Less complex than the “Hawk,” this is a wonderful, enjoyable wine – smooth and delicious fruit on the bouquet and palate, with a little lingering bitterness.  June 2020

2017 Parsonage Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $42 (#87*)

So happy to have the estate wines back – the 2017 Syrah!

Winemaker’s Notes:  “Big and rich is a great way to describe our 2017 Estate Syrah. Perfect balance and fully ripened tannins allow for a big, beautiful finish without dissonance. The bouquet is a swirl of toasted French oak vanillins that perform an olfactory fakeout with the very ripe Syrah skins that together say caramel mocha. Right behind that is a ripe black raspberry/black currant fusion. All of these aromatics manifest on the palate creating a melange of bittersweet chocolate caramel accented with sea salt (derived from the umami flavor of Parsonage terroir).”

My Review: Deep purple in color.  Black cherry on the nose. Palate bursting with black fruit, spice and bay leaves. June 2020

You can obtain these wines directly from Parsonage here and pick them up at the tasting room onr have them shipped to you.  Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5  and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.

Estate Vines at Parsonage.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Pierce Ranch: “Eclectic” Varietals from the San Antonio AVA

I wanted to take this opportunity to introduce you to the San Antonio AVA and Pierce Ranch. The San Antonio Valley AVA is not one you can easily drive to – it is tucked away toward the southwestern end of Monterey County, past Arroyo Seco and nestled between the Big Sur coastline and Salinas Valley, with climate more like that of Paso Robles than the rest of the Monterey AVAs.

The San Antonio AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association.

Appelation America has an excellent description of this AVA: “Had the Monterey grape growers and wineries of the 1970s looked at the history of grape growing in the county a little closer, they may well have planted their Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the newly approved (July, 2006) San Antonio Valley AVA, located in the southern extreme of the county. This growing area was one of the first places in the United States to be planted with grapes, as early missionaries recognized that the region’s climate was ideally suited for producing wine. The original mission, San Antonio de Padua, established here in 1771, remains standing to this day, as a symbol of this region’s rich heritage and its significance in the history of California viticulture.”

According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, (my go-to resource for all things Monterey Wines – on Facebook at Monterey Wines), “As one of Monterey County’s warmer AVA’s, San Antonio Valley experiences a large daily degree differential. Warmer weather allows fruit to fully mature while colder night temperatures preserve balanced acids and sugar ratios. This climate lends itself well to many Bordeaux and Rhone Varietals as well as Zinfandel.”

The charming Pierce Ranch Tasting Room in Cannery Row is open for curbside pickup.

Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a small, family-owned operation.  From Pierce Vineyards web page: “Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a small, family-owned operation centered in southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation. We produce limited-run, estate-grown wines with an emphasis on Spanish and Portuguese varieties.” I spoke with their tasting room manager in late September, who informed me that Pierce Ranch received many awards in the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition, including Gold Medal and Best Tempranillo for their 2017 Tempranillo (will be reviewed in a future post), and Silver for the 2017 Touriga, Petite Sirah, and Malbec!

2017 Pierce Ranch Touriga, San Antonio Valley AVA, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#31*)

The 2017 Pierce Ranch Touriga was awarded a Silver Medal at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition!

From the bottle: “Perched in a highland valley at the southern tip of Monterey County, our vineyards, with their wide variation in diurnal temperate and rocky soils, provide an excellent setting for the classic grape varieties of Spain and Portugal. Among these, Touriga – a native of Portugal’s Douro Valley – is undoubtedly one of the most promising. Estate grown in a hilltop block of our Y Ranch Vineyard, the 2017 vintage offers up a lovely, sumptuous wine with solid tannins and truly intriguing aromatics. A limited-run bottling, it was fermented in a single, small lot and aged in French oak for 18 months. Rich black currant and black plum are accompanied by traces of spice and floral notes.” 

My Review:  Plum in color, with a nose of raspberry jam with the sweetness offset by acidity, like a sweet tart with cinnamon on the finish.  The nose carries over to the palate – raspberry and sour cherry with bubble gum, mint and cedar notes; tannins and clove on the lingering finish.  It becomes a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon-like the longer it is open.  This smooth wine is very young – cellar it for a while. 

Pierce Ranch 2017 GSP, San Antonio AVA, 14.9% ABV, $22 (#56*)  62% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah

Instead of a “GSM,” this is a “GSP” – with Petite Sirah instead of Mourvèdre!

From Pierce Vineyards:  “Originating in our vineyards in southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation, our GSP is an estate-grown blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Petite Sirah. Benefiting from the abundant sunlight, rocky calcerous soils, and wide diurnal temperature variation of our region, the 2017 vintage is a versatile, medium-bodied wine full of bright fruit and with a lively, buoyant, character. Handcrafted on a limited scale, its components were fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 15 months. Notes of wild strawberry, cherry, and raspberry are accompanied by traces of florality.”

My Review:  Light in color, this wine has a sweet, bright berry nose, Bing cherry and berry on the palate and a little leather on the finish.  I was hoping for a bigger wine, so I would have preferred less “G” and more “S” and “P.”  For those of you who like a lighter red, this may be the wine for you! May 2020

2015 Pierce Ranch Petite Sirah, San Antonio AVA, 15.8% ABV, $25 (#95*)

I liked this so much, I went back and bought another! The 2017 took Silver at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition!

From Pierce Vineyards, “…Located in the southernmost tip of Monterey County, the newly declared San Antonio Valley appellation is already showing itself to be an ideal region for producing nuanced, complex Petite Sirah. Consisting entirely of fruit sourced from our Y Ranch Vineyard’s rocky, hillside Block 1, this, our 2015 bottling, provides and elegant expression of the variety with excellent depth and solid tannic structure. Produced on a very limited scale, it was fermented in small lots and then aged, unracked, in French oak for 18 months. Aromas and flavors of blueberry, black currant, and black plum combined with a savory component and traces of spice.”

My Review: Very deep purple, dark in color.  Nose of cinnamon rolls.  Blueberry and blackberry on the palate – very smooth with a touch of sweetness – at 15.8% alcohol, it is creeping up on port-like qualities with dark plum and currant flavors.  A very easy drinking Petite Sirah.  A bargain at $25 – I bought this wine again, along with other vintages. July 2020

2016 Pierce Ranch Claret, San Antonio AVA. 13.8%, $28** (#142*) 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petit Verdot, 13% Malbec,  1% Grenache

I enjoyed this Claret over several days – the flavors remained consistent – not overly complex, yet very delicious.

Pierce Ranch Claret Notes: “…Benefiting from the region’s high elevation, rocky soils, and wide variation in diurnal temperature, the 2016 vintage is a nuanced, well-balanced wine with an elegant texture, restrained fruit, and a solid tannic structure. Produced on a very limited scale, its components were fermented in small lots and aged in French oak for 18 months. Flavors and aromas of red cherry, black currant, and plum combine with hints of cedar and tobacco leaf.”

My Review: Raspberry and blackberry on the nose.  Raspberry, tart cherry and plum on the palate, with a smooth, licorice finish.  This is a very tasty, everyday Claret.

Check out their Facebook page at Piece Ranch Vineyards for their weekly specials. This might be the chance to get some of their wines before they sell out (such small production means the favorites are gone before we even know they are there).  You can order their wines via Pierce Vineyard Tasting Room  or at (831) 372-8900, and they’ll arrange for curbside pickup or shipping (which is just $5 anywhere in California.) Also, they recently started shipping to DC and Virginia, my friends!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

**This wine was given to me by Pierce Ranch to review. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Ian Brand: Discovering “…great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming”

We were out in the valley one afternoon checking out the tasting rooms and saw something new had moved into the old White Oaks Shopping Center, now primarily a “wine tasting row.”  In my memory, this fellow inside was playing guitar, but maybe he was just playing a record.  He stopped to pour us wine.  We learned he was the “I” of I. Brand – Ian Brand.  We were attracted to his wines, range of varietals and vineyards, his affordable prices, and humorous labels, akin to those at Bonny Doon.  And it is no wonder, as that is where he got his introduction to the wine business – doing an entry-level job at Bonny Doon. 

I. Brand’s Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village

Winemaker Ian Brand has come a long way since those early days in the wine business.  He and his wife Heather now produce over 10,000 cases annually in a warehouse in Salinas under three wine labels: Le P’tit Paysan (French Inspired Wines), La Marea (Spanish Inspired Wines) and I. Brand & Family (California Inspired Wines).  Wine Spectator published this illuminating 2015 Winemaking on the Edge article about Ian Brand, his wines and his family.  And, most significantly, Ian was named the San Francisco Chronicle 2018 Winemaker of the Year.

From I. Brand & Family:  “We did not set out to make these wines. We discovered great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming and decided to bring them to light. The farther we looked, the more we found – remote, challenging vineyards, with hard depleted soils, and intense sunlight tempered only by the coastal breeze. Vineyards capable of producing only the most idiosyncratic wines. Our goal as winemakers is to lightly polish the roughest edges and leave the idiosyncrasy intact. It is here in the back country, filled with individual character, where Le P’tit Paysan comes to life.”

 “La Marea, made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.” (Couer Wine Company)

You can see the influence from his time at Bonny Doon in not only his labels, but also his style of wines – they tend to be flavorful, while lower in alcohol, more in a European style.  And, back in the day when we could gather, his release parties were a fun time: wine, food and live music.  That’s where I was introduced to the music of ¿Qiensave? Quiensave Music.

Today’s post is about his wines we have been drinking since March from the Monterey AVA, specifically. Other regions and labels to follow.

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Chardonnay Jacks Hill Vineyard, Monterey County, 12.5 % ABV, $22, (#139*)

When I was asked to present a Monterey County wine class to the Northern Virginia American Wine Society, I looked far and wide for what I thought would be the best representation of our region while also available for purchase in Washington DC.  I ran out to the tasting room to try the Jacks Hill, declared it a winner, and came home triumphant.  When I shared my great find with my husband, he replied, “Well, of course it’s a great wine – we tasted it at their release party and have it in our wine room.”  :-/ 

The 2017 Jacks Hill Chardonnay comes from Chualar, east of the Salinas. Whole-cluster fermentation, racked in neutral oak barrels, one new French oak barrel and a stainless-steel tank, aged for 5 months. 40% undergoes malolactic fermentation to round out the acids, creating a balanced expression of Chardonnay. 

Jacks Hill was my pick for a Monterey County Wine for my 2019 AWS class.

Wine Enthusiast Review : “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.”92 points, Matt Kettmann, February 2019

My Review: Pale gold in color, refreshingly floral, creamy peach, and pineapple nose.  Full-bodied in flavor with pineapple, citrus and the slight bitterness of lime zest.  A slightly tart wine with none of that over-oaked, buttery or cloying characteristics we often see in a California Chardonnay.  Refreshing and delicious.  August 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#103*)

The 2019 La Marea Albariño has been our wine of choice on these warm, coastal days.

The Corkery Review: “Tasting Notes:  Juicy, Lemon Citrus, Pineapple, Mineral.  This fresh and aromatic Albarino benefits from the cool winds off Monterey Bay and the soils of an ancient sea bed. The wine has beautiful texture and minerality and pairs well with fresh shellfish and grilled fish as well as spicy cuisines, including Indian and Thai.” Wine Enthusiast has rated previous vintages from 90-91 points. 

My Review: We drank this wine on a hot summer day after a Sancerre.  Crisp and clean.  The minerality showed up as a little bitterness “like a Sicilian green olive” and complemented our Mediterranean appetizers.  Perfect for the occasion. July 2020

2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#114*)

I needed an Albariño for a wine class in August and pulled this one out of our wine room.  We were familiar with the regular 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard in July, so what the heck is the Alternate Cut?? 

There is not a lot of information out there about the 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard Alternate Cut.  The label says this:  “We pulled aside 70 cases of one of the components of our Kristy Albarino to showcase a different side of what the vineyard and variety can do.  Destemmed and left on the skins two days, and fermented with a ‘pied de cuvee’ yeast harvested in the vine rows, this is a broader, funkier ‘alternate cut.’“

The 2019 La Marea Alternate Cut: a funkier, bolder Albariño.

Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2018 Alternate Cut:  “This experimental twist by Ian Brand shows only slight differences from his original bottling, yet they’re intriguingly fresh accents. Aromas of peach blossom, honeydew rinds and wax lead into a laser-sharp, high-toned palate that focuses on lime and the slightest touch of nectarine on the finish.” 92 points.  Matt Kettmann 12/2019 

My Review: Golden and slightly pink in color. A floral and peachy nose, followed by a full-flavored palate echoing the nose, perhaps slightly sweeter on the palate than a typical Albariño.  The finish is big, yeasty and slightly tart and bitter in a complementary way – slightly lime rind. August 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM.  You can order their wines from the winery or via numerous shops online. As of September 7, 2020: The 2017 Chardonnay is available at Pearson’s Wine and Spirits  in DC and at  K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard is available from the winery and several shops around the US, including K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20 and the Princeton Corkscrew for $22.  The 2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut is available from the winery and a few shops in the US, including Union Square Wines in NYC for $28, case price $25 per bottle.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Wrath: Harnessing Angry Fog and Screaming Winds to Create Great Wines

I recently had a marvelous isolation birthday.  Beautiful walks, swimming, mahjongg on the patio, all followed by appetizers and a gourmet meal prepared by my favorite chef in my own home.  A wine was decanted – to my delight it was the 2015 Wrath Syrah.   Yum.  A few days later was Cinco de Mayo and we had a little party planned – takeout from Mando’s, our local Mexican joint, and margaritas!  Right before dinner, the UPS man arrived with our order of the 2016 Wrath Syrah and, for science, we had to taste it – but after our party.

We are venturing out of Arroyo Seco AVA and to the north to the Monterey AVA – the heart of the Salinas Valley.  According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association, the Monterey AVA was established 1984. Thanks to the local climate, it enjoys one of the longest growing seasons in the world, with a wide range of microclimates influenced by the Monterey Bay. The afternoon winds cool down the vineyards and the maritime fog keeps the temperatures from falling too low.  Over 50% of the grapes grown are Chardonnay. 

This area has been suffering the fires and smoke from the ongoing River Fire and I expect we will hear reporting soon from the damage.

The Vineyards of the Monterey AVA from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Webpage

We got to know Wrath years ago, as one of their tasting rooms is centrally located in the Carmel Shopping Plaza right off Ocean Avenue in quaint Carmel-By-The-Sea.  It was always a fun place to drop in to taste some great wines.  In the Spring of 2019, we took a family road trip down the River Road Wine Trail through the Salinas Valley to their winery and main tasting room in Soledad – it was the highlight of our trip.  The plan was to go back there in March 2020 with our new friends and have a picnic there.  Sigh…someday.  While their Syrah has always been one of my favorites, they make great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and I featured their delicious 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class.

About Wrath Wines from their website:  “Wrath is in the wall of maritime fog that rolls into the Salinas Valley and the relentless afternoon winds that scream through our grape trellises. Wrath wines represent a nexus of nature and an unbridled passion for winemaking.”  This description refers to the harsh conditions created by the cold waters of the Monterey Bay and the afternoon winds that come screaming even down my street and fog (like the heavy bank which rolled in last evening), reminding me daily that those winds and fog serve a purpose – to help us make great wine.

San Saba Vineyard Photo from our March 2019 Visit

A bit about the San Saba Vineyard from Wrath: “Our Estate San Saba Vineyard is set in a sheltered nook just below the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The estate consists of 72 acres of which 67.75 are planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Falanghina. This is a cool site with little rainfall and one of the longest growing seasons in the world. Our soils, Arroyo Gravelly Loam and Hanford Gravely Sandy Loam, provide a low-vigor, well-draining, disease- and pest-free medium for our vines. They also impart a subtle mineral quality to our wines…”

2017 Wrath EX Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey AVA, 13% ABV $20

This Sauvignon Blanc represented Monterey white wines very well for my Northern Virginia AWS class. Product photo from Wrath website.

About the EX Label: “Wrath is proud to announce the release of EX wines, our updated label that replaces the Ex Anima series. With a name meaning “out of” in Latin, EX speaks to our focus on expressing the personality and characteristics of our Certified Sustainable (SIP) estate vineyard. We harvest grapes at two different ripeness levels and then blend lots together to create a wine that encapsulates the best qualities of each lot. fermentation and aging take place in stainless tanks.”

The 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc is bright and vibrant with pronounced guava and gooseberries.  1023 cases produced.

Wine Enthusiast Review: ” Freshly cut lawn, wet cement, sour lime rinds, and kelp combine for a very unique and compelling nose on this bottling. The nose extends to the palate, where white pepper and crushed white-rock flavors make for a memorable sip.” 90 pts, Matt Kettmann, November 2018 

2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#38*)

The 2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard is a big, chewy wine, rated 90 points.

Review by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Advocate: “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Syrah San Saba Vineyard has a beguiling seaweed, dried Provence herbs and green tea nose over a core of black and red cherries, mulberries and garrigue. Full-bodied and firmly structured with chewy tannins, it has loads of earthy appeal and a long pepper and herbs-laced finish.”  90 points

My Review: This is one of our favorite Monterey wines and this vintage was excellent.  The color was incredibly dense and the flavors match the look. IMHO, this wine deserves a higher rating!

2016 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#41*)

The 2016 Wrath Syrah from the San Saba Vineyard received a well-deserved 95 point rating!

From Wrath Wines regarding the Wrath 2016 Syrah: “Grapes are hand harvested and hand sorted. Clonal lots are kept separate during fermentation. All our single vineyard syrahs use a similar whole cluster fermentation (20%) and oak regimen. This helps highlight the individual personality of each vineyard. After on-site bottling, the wine rests for another 12 months of bottle aging before release.”  100% French oak, 45% new.  298 cases were produced.

Wrath says this about the 2016 Syrah San Saba Vineyard:  “Powerful and elegant, aromatics include blackberry, leather and peppercorns; the palate is rich and concentrated with graphite, cassis, and a hint of smoke.” Jeb Dunnuck rated this wine 95 points! I would have to agree!!

My Review:  We found the 2016 Syrah to be similar to the 2015 in taste – very dense red with blueberry and blackberry on the nose.  Delicious smooth palate of alcohol-laced, dancing bright and dark fruits – berries and plums, lingering finish.  I highly recommend this wine if you are a Syrah fan. 

Wrath offers free ground shipping on case purchases of its wine, which you can purchase from its website. 

The San Francisco Chronicle published a list of the Top 10 Things to do in Monterey and Wrath’s tasting room is included in that list.  For more information on tasting Wrath wines, click here.  According to Wrath’s website, as of September 5th: “Inside tastings may be banned for now but at the winery tasting room, we have a large outdoor patio that is perfect for safe spacing and sampling our wines while enjoying the views. We are 5 minutes west of Hwy 101 and 20 minutes south of Salinas, off River Road.  In Carmel, we have moved our tasting room outside onto the center courtyard of Carmel Plaza (Ocean & Mission).  We don’t have a large amount of seating but we do have a nice fire pit to stay cozy on those foggy days that Carmel is so famous for.” 

Please give them a call to confirm, especially during these times of COVID and the River Fire – 831-620-1909.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage Reserve Wines – My Kind of Big Reds!

Reviews of Parsonage Estate Reserve 2016 Rocco Syrah, 2016 Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2017 Hawk Pinot Noir

I’m going to take us north from Cachagua to talk about a few wineries we “discovered” with vineyards just south of Carmel Valley Village. I’ll come back to Cachagua in a few posts.

We discovered Parsonage during one of our wine tasting outings to Carmel Valley many years ago.  During that time, it seemed every time we came to the valley, there were new wineries and tasting rooms popping up.  We were at Joullian Vineyards and asked where else we should taste.  The tasting room manager made a call to Parsonage’s winemaker, Frank Melicia, who wanted to ensure we were serious wine buyers before he’d let us come up to the winery.  And thusly began a beautiful relationship! 

Bill and Mary Parsons planted the seven-acre Parsonage Village Vineyard in June 1998, with their first harvest in 2000. According to Parsonage, the vineyard is planted to 3 ½ acres of Syrah, 2 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Merlot and 1/2 acre of Petit Verdot. Starting at a meager 200 cases back in 2000, annual production today is in the 1500-2000 case range. The Parsons were the first to plant Syrah in Carmel Valley and their wines are the reason I am now a big Syrah fan. 

Parsonage has made five estate reserve wines:  Bixby (Petit Verdot), Dario (Merlot), Hawk (Pinot Noir), Rocco (Syrah), Tanner (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Xandro (Red Blend).  Their reserve wines are named for Bill and Mary’s grandchildren. Mary’s exquisite quilts are featured on the labels and in the tasting room (you can view them on their website). 

Two of these reviews are of 2016 wines. In the summer of 2016, the Soberanes Fire burned for months south of Carmel Valley. The smoke from that fire affected the grapes in the Carmel Valley AVA.  I’ll do a longer piece on the Soberanes Fire in a future blog, as its impact was significant. 

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Rocco Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Rocco Syrah

Parsonage says this about the 2016 Rocco:  “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit.  The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant. 

My Review: We detected a little tar on the nose with ham hock and charcoal on the palate “in a good way – like S’Mores”.  This wine has a lot of fruit – it’s like you are sitting around a campfire with a mouthful of sweetness and tart.  The wine seems to work with the smokiness, making it part of its richness, not an offensive aftertaste.  In July 2020, we decanted this wine and enjoyed it even more – much smoother and even less ham hock.  As my husband says, a Rocco Syrah, even from the Soberanes Fire year, is still one of the most delicious Carmel Valley wines.  June/July 2020

I presented this wine at my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS as a compare and contrast of a Carmel Valley 2016 wine with one from another Monterey County AVA.  I didn’t tell them about the smoke and I asked them what they tasted different in this wine.  There were many guesses before the owner of Pearmund Winery guessed smoke. 

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon

According to Parsonage: “This Cabernet Sauvignon is a burly beast of a wine and the fastest selling vintage we’ve ever made. When folks try it, they buy it. The nose is full of dark fruit with hints of barrel toast. The palate is full of blackberry, black cherry, and tobacco leaf.  Nicely integrated tannins and a long finish. We aren’t fancy and like to pair it with a burger.” 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

My Review: Glass-coating rich, this wine had a little sulphur and green olive on the nose, followed by umami flavors of pepperoni dipped in a good marinade.  Very robust and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon.  Little to no detection of smoke taint, despite the 2016 vintage. June 2020

2017 Parsonage Estate Reserve Hawk Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $60

2017 Parsonage Estate Reserve Hawk Pinot Noir – Photo courtesy of Parsonage

From Parsonage: “A magnificent expression of the varietal character of Pinot Noir California style. All of the beautiful floral spice found in its elegant sibling (the Estate Pinot) but with black cherry and black raspberry and Darjeeling muscatel notes in a bigger, richer, fuller version with an extra dollop of yum. The Hawk is truly high viscosity Pinot on steroids.” Aged in new oak for ~12 months.

My Review: Very berry on the nose. More structure than the Estate Pinot Noir, yet smoother. Intense berry, black tea and a bit of tobacco on the palate. The Hawk is a delicious Pinot Noir enjoyed and highly regarded even by my Burgundy fanatic relatives. June 2020

You can obtain their wines directly from the winery:  They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off. 

You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village Thursdays through Monday, 12-5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page here

2017 Georis Merlot: Getting Way Beyond “Sideways”

2017 Georis Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $36

Merlot got an undeserved bad rap in the movie, Sideways.  That was so 2005 – so let’s get our Merlot on!  There are many fine California Merlots out there worthy of our attention.  Continuing on our march of wines from Cachagua, let’s talk Georis, which is known for its Merlots.

The Tasting Lineup at Georis

We have always had a fondness for Georis.  Why?  Walter Georis’ brother, Gaston, was my husband’s French teacher at the Monterey Institute for International Studies (now Middlebury).  And, right next door to Georis’ tasting room in Carmel Valley Village was Corkscrew Café (now at 1 Pilot Road), where we often dined al fresco when wine tasting in the valley.  In our early days of visiting the valley, we’d either taste Georis wines at the winery or at Corkscrew, but never both.  After all, someone had to drive home. 

From the Georis winery’s webpage: “Walter Georis was born of a Belgian father and a German mother who immigrated to the US from Belgium in 1956 when Walter was eleven years old… After having spent his teen years in Southern California, Walter decided to move north to Carmel where he pursued a career in fine arts. Soon after arriving in Carmel, Walter designed a family restaurant, Casanova that would become internationally renowned for its cuisine and style, and its wine cellar… Walter decided to combine his love of fine wines with the challenges and rewards of growing grapes and producing first class wines. In 1981, after consulting with French experts…, he bought a ranch in Carmel Valley and soon planted the grapes that would produce the first crop of Georis wines. The vineyard is located in the mountains of the upper Carmel Valley, California, 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Our 14 acre vineyard is planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir grapes. Our terroir is sandy clay loam with gravel and river rocks. Some small vineyard areas include chalky soils.

“Since 1982, Georis Winery proudly produces a variety of wines exceptional in quality. Georis wines represent authenticity, integrity and a commitment to terroir expressive wines. Our philosophy is to respect European wine-making traditions while embracing the generous California climate of our appellation. Our objective is to craft wines with complexity, elegance and finesse.  Our Estate wines set us apart from other producers. Earthy, opulent and fruit forward, they reveal complex tannin, minerality and dry finish.” www.georiswine.com

2017 Georis Merlot

Georis describes this wine as follows: “Rich and bold yet elegant with sumptuous aromas of mocha, savory chocolate, and black berry fruits. The palate is extremely generous with hints of young berry, black berry, black spices, and silky tannins.” 

 My Review: Ruby/purple in color with plum/blackberry on the nose, brimming with cassis, vanilla and chocolate notes, solid tannins and a cherry finish.   A very delicious, big wine.

Best place to buy his wines is from his website or at his tasting room. The Georis tasting room is at 1 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village.  Their indoors wine tasting bar and room is very large (for better times). Their outdoor spaces are incredible for significantly socially distance tables for any sized party, even a larger, private event, as appropriate. I would feel very comfortable coming to Georis to do winetasting of his primarily great Merlots. Open daily, 11:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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