THE STORY
On August 12th, the Arroyo Seco Winegrowers celebrated their 40th Anniversary at the Joyce Winery in Soledad. This was mostly the vineyard owners and the wineries celebrating their great partnership in making terrific wines, putting the Arroyo Seco AVA on the map. I asked my friends at Chesebro Wines if they could get us in – thank you, Alex Lallos! This post is Part 1 – be sure to read next week’s post for Part 2!
For us coastal dwellers, it was a pretty long drive to get down to Soledad, but well worth it! It was a beautiful, warm day. The event was relatively small, with about 20 wineries offering tastes along with gourmet appetizers by Michael Jones and others. We had to be very careful with our tastes due to the drive home. We stuck to our practice of sharing tastes and dumping the rest.
The setting was a wine lover’s dream. Joyce has a beautiful facility nestled in the heart of the Arroyo Seco AVA, surrounded by vineyards. The event took place inside its barrel room, keeping us cool from the sun and heat outside. It was a casual, low-key event with happy vintners and farmers celebrating what they together have created. During the event, I met some wineries I had never heard of like Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC and Martin Ranch Winery, and got to talk to vineyard growers like Luis Zabala and vintners including Mark Chesebro (finally!)! I am looking forward to visiting Zabala Vineyards sometime after harvest, when things calm way back down.
ABOUT THE ARROYO SECO AVA
The Arroyo Seco AVA was established in 1983. That was fairly early in Monterey County’s AVA development. (Read about all of Monterey County’s AVA’s on the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association website.) We became fans of the Arroyo Seco AVA many years ago through the wines of Chesebro and Mercy, the latter, sadly, no longer in operation. Now, when I see a winery offering wines from Arroyo Seco, I jump at the opportunity to try them – from delicate and flavorful whites from vineyards including Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala to the big reds found at Shale Canyon.
A wine I really miss from the region is Mercy’s Syrah from Zabala Vineyards. I have yet to figure out who is making Syrah out of those grapes today (in addition to Luis Zabala himself!)
The Arroyo Seco Winegrowers carries this description of the AVA:
“The Arroyo Seco AVA encompasses portions of two towns; Soledad and Greenfield in California’s Monterey County. In the rural, western extremes of these townships the Santa Lucia Mountains rise dramatically, creating the western boundary of the Salinas Valley, and provide the unique setting for one of California’s earliest recognized viticultural area. It is in this landscape that a transverse waterway from the mountains carved the distinct geography and geology, and ultimately converges with the maritime influences of the deep, cold waters of the Pacific Ocean found 40 miles north at Monterey Bay. Ultimately, the confluences of so many distinct geographic factors unite to form this small, finite growing region.
“Granted federal AVA status on April 15, 1983, the Arroyo Seco appellation is steeped in winegrowing history and rooted in the geographic features of a waterway named “Arroyo Seco”. This seasonal creek brings rain water and snowmelt from the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Los Padres National Forrest to the Salinas Valley. Over the millenniums the pressure of this natural water-release created a diverse geography; carving landscape, dumping rocks and filling a deep subteranian aquifer with clean, pure water. Ultimately, the esteemed authors of the appellation cited the unique terrain formed by the Arroyo Seco as the foundation of AVA’s boundaries. Within the AVA’s boundaries the first commercial vineyard, Mission Ranch, was propogated by the Mirassou family in 1961, over two decades before the region received its AVA status.
“Consisting of 18,240 acres the Arroyo Seco AVA is one of the smallest AVAs in California (by contrast the largest California AVA is 3,008,000 acres, while other coastal appellations dwarf the Arroyo Seco AVA; the Santa Cruz Mountains is 408,000 acres, the Russian River Valley is 96,000 acres, the Santa Maria Valley is over 80,000 acres, the Sta Rita Hills AVA is 30,720 acres, and the Santa Lucia Highlands is 22,000 acres). It is a finite piece of terrain that has always been considered, by virtue of the definition of an AVA, one of most the “distinguished” places to grow grapes in Califorina. In fact, of the over 100 California AVAs the Arroyo Seco was one of the earliest to be recognized – the 15th AVA (tied for no. 15 with two other AVAs) to be granted such distinction.”
I like to use the description of the AVA from Mercy’s former website in my classes:
“Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.”
THE WINES
Today I am presenting wines we tasted at that event from four wineries: Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines. I’ll write up the rest of the wineries next week. Despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal. I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
SCOTT FAMILY ESTATE
“The gems of Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco”
Scott Family Estate is part of the Rutherford Wine Company focused on Arroyo Seco wines. It produces high volumes of wine (on Monterey standards) and distributed nationally. This was the first time I had seen Scott Family Estate wines at our local wine events. I’m always excited to “discover” wineries right in our own backyard. According to its webpage:
“Witness the exquisite harmony achieved through the meticulous fusion of cool-climate varietals and the pristine terroir they call home. This union is a symphony orchestrated by the interplay of specific soil compositions, judicious clonal choices, elevated vineyard sites, and the microclimate’s gentle caress.
“The outcome is a tapestry of flavors that pay homage to their origins. Our Burgundian style Chardonnays and Pinot Noir showcase this enchanting connection, inviting you to savor the fruit of unparalleled quality, each sips an eloquent ode to its unique growing enclave.”
2021 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $36 (#1129)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 harvest in Monterey County was condensed following a long, cool growing season. The extended cool conditions and lack of hot summer days resulted in high acids and low sugars. The season’s long hang times resulted in refined development, as well as wines with great depth and exceptionally concentrated fruit flavors and density.”
My Notes: My only note was that I liked this Chardonnay. Well balanced and tasty.
2021 Scott Family Estate Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $45 (#1130)
Winery Notes: “A soft and decadent 100% Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, sage, ripe raspberries and earthy notes. Richly textured and medium-bodied with balanced acidity creating a smooth, lingering finish. Enjoy this elegant Pinot Noir now or save for up to seven years.”
My Notes: My only note on this wine was that it was typical for the region.
OCNAUTIC:
“Embark on Your Next Wine Adventure with Ocnautic”
OCNAUTIC is part of the ASV family of wines with vineyards in Arroyo Seco and Paso Robles. Muirwood is also part of this group. OCNAUTIC is located in Paso Robles and focus on Paso Robles and Monterey wines.
From their website: “If you believe the legend, a three-masted schooner named the Ocnautic sailed the seas in the early 1800s. It was renowned for many wonderous voyages and inspired many to take to the seas in the spirit of discovery.
“Thus, we named our adventurous, boldly styled wines from the California Central Coast OCNAUTIC. Great wine takes you on an enchanting journey of discovery. We invite you to join us.”
2022 OCNAUTIC Grenache Blanc, Wiley Vineyard, Monterey County (#1131)
Winery Notes from ASVwines.com: “Soft aromas of white flower, honeysuckle, and citrus peel are followed by flavors of rich pineapple, stone fruit, and refreshing acidity on the finish.” 96% Grenache Blanc, 4% Viognier.
My Notes: This wine has a very cool, octagonal and nautical label. I detected some grass on the nose and otherwise have no tasting notes.
MUIRWOOD
“WINES CRAFTED WITH CARE FROM MONTEREY COUNTY’S RENOWNED ARROYO SECO VINEYARDS”
I have presented a Muirwood wine before from a tasting I did at A Taste of Monterey in Cannery Row. Muirwood is located in the Greenfield area. I found this description on their website:
“Our approach is grounded in the belief that the best wines come from the best grapes. This translates into attention to detail at every step of the grape growing and winemaking process; from the inspection of soil profiles and climate conditions, to determining which root stocks and clonal varieties are best suited to the growing site, to the selection and blending of individual lots.”
2022 Muirwood Unoaked Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1132)
Winery Notes: “Citrus bouquet, mango and guava on palate, elegant and complex.”
My Notes: This Chardonnay was quite heavy, rich and flavorful on the palate. August 2023
2021 Muirwood Cabernet Sauvignon Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1133)
Winery Notes: “Black currant and cassis, toasty notes, complex finish.”
My Notes: Very dark ruby. Oak on the nose, followed by a nice palate of dark fruit. August 2023
LULI WINES
I first wrote about Luli Wines here. A snippet from their website tells their story:
“Wine offers expression of people-in-relation rather than selves apart. Luli, the result of a partnership between a master sommelier, a distinguished vineyard manager and an expert winemaker, provides a particularly happy example of the way in which wine creates community, because Luli is itself a collective enterprise. Sommelier, grape-grower, and winemaker, we three approach wine from different angles, but work synergistically to craft exceptional hand-crafted vintages at comfortable prices. We thrive together—and have fun doing so. And why not? The pleasure of wine supplies us with a way to enjoy life. So open a bottle, pour the swirling liquid into a glass, and celebrate, as we do, the bonds between family and friends…” This is a joint effort by sommelier Sara Floyd and Mark and Jeff Pisoni.
2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $24 (#1134)
Winery Notes: “Fresh, vibrant, and lifted in all regards, the 2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc packs a youthful punch from start to finish. A pale straw hue intermixes with tinges of green as this wine shimmers in the glass. Notes of lime zest, lemongrass, and juicy grapefruit are more pronounced, as wet stone and a hint of fresh herbs offer unexpected complexity. While the palate may first show the crisp acidity, citrus driven flavors soon dominate before giving way to additional layers of volume and texture earned with three months of aging on the lees in all neutral French oak barrels. This delicious Sauvignon Blanc is best enjoyed cold, young, and often.
My Notes: Grassy, crisp, and tasty.
THE TASTING ROOMS
To my knowledge, Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines do not have tasting rooms. You can taste Muirwood wines at A Taste of Monterey. Check their websites for more information.
© Decanting Monterey 2023
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