Tagged: Bernardus Winery

Another Chink in the Legacy of Monterey Wines

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THE STORY

I was eating my lunch at the kitchen table, reading the Carmel Pine Cone, as I typically do.  I opened the January 10th edition to the real estate section and found this ad on page 42:

It’s an ad for a Bernardus Vineyard consisting of “32-acres of vines comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Petite Syrah and Merlot.The wines produced from the vineyard are consistently awarded 90+ scores for their quality and structure that will age.”

I just about fell out of my chair and immediately called out to my husband. This sounded like Bernardus’ Marinus Vineyard – from which their founder Ben Pon fulfilled his dream to make a Bordeaux-style wine right here in Carmel Valley (in Monterey County). I was devastated to read this news, as the Marinus and Marinus Signature blends made from these grapes, are my favorite Bernardus wines.  We have been long-time members of their Marinus club and have enjoyed their Marinus dinners over the past few years – my favorite event of the year.

At the most recent such dinner in 2024, which I wrote about in this post 2024 Bernardus Marinus Dinner – Nothing Short of Spectacular!, we heard for the first time the full, colorful history of the founding of this vineyard and the beginnings of the winery. It is quite a moving story. Knowing this news now and looking back on that dinner, I can see why the telling of those stories was so emotional for the winery staff as well. This must have been a difficult decision to make.

The Bernardus Marinus wines are quality, age-worthy wines.  I fear this marks the end of an era, but perhaps it is simply an expression of the trends in consumption and maybe even climate.  After all, even though we might feel like these wineries are providing us a service and we may be way too attached to wines from certain vineyards, winemaking at the end of the day is a business and wineries must follow the trends and the fruit to achieve their bottom lines.

THE SIGNS WERE THERE

We knew something was up when tons of the 2017 Marinus showed up at Costco for a fraction of their retail price (we bought as much as we could).  In addition, at the Marinus dinner, there was talk about no longer making a separate Marinus Bordeaux-style blend and just making the higher end Signature.  Now I understand why. Bernardus will still make a high-quality reserve Bordeaux-style blend, just not from that vineyard. But from where?  What fruit will match the quality and historical significance of their own estate vineyard?

And, while Bernardus was a key, early player in the Carmel Valley AVA, it is widely known for its “Monterey County” wines available nation-wide and its reputation has been soaring with its high-quality vineyard-designate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands. I have written about all their wines many times. You can find those posts by typing “Bernardus” in the Decanting Monterey search bar.  Those varietals are what Monterey County is more broadly known for.

Bernardus’ Vineyard-designate Trio of Pinot Noirs

I want to say up front in this post that I’m telling you this story off the top of my head – any errors are mine and mine alone – and do let me know if corrections need to be made. 

THINGS THEY BE A-CHANGING

We’ve seen so much change in our Monterey wineries and vineyards.  Often it is because the original owners have aged out or passed away and their heirs don’t want to continue to produce wine.  It’s sad. Because many of these vintners were the founders of winemaking in this region. We have seen Talbott and Hahn labels and winemaking taken over by Gallo Wines.  We saw Galante, which still produces wines, sell its vineyards and winery to newcomer Tira Nanza, who shows great promise.  We saw Joullian close and be put up for sale. The Massa Estate is also for sale – the Durney legacy vineyards of some of the most prized Cabernet Sauvignon fruit in Carmel Valley/Cachagua. Pierce Ranch Vineyards down in San Antonio Valley AVA closed its tasting room in 2023 and decided to focus on selling its fruit. And the Boekenoogen family recently chose to stop wine production, with Santa Lucia Highlands locals McIntyre Vineyards taking over its tasting room and inventory. And Manzoni has kept their vineyard, while selling its tasting room and winemaking to younger players. So much change. Most recently, and last I heard, we’ve seen a merger of newer players Seabold Cellars into San Benito’s Eden Rift.

Monterey County AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association

Maintaining a quality vineyard is a hard job, with the threats of fire and drought around the corner.  In some of our conversations with vineyard owners, they have no interest in bottling their own juice, as it means lots of road time to market their product.  Our Monterey County grapes are much sought after by wineries outside of Monterey County.  Having the Santa Lucia Highlands designation on a bottle means something.  Carmel Valley is less widely known, but remains my favorite AVA within Monterey (oops, I’m not supposed to have favorites).

Carmel Valley AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association

And then there is the overall downturn in wine consumption and climate change, affecting wineries across the globe.  Some vineyards are ripping out grapes or have left their fruit to rot on the vines.  We are at a critical juncture. As one local vintner put it, it’s the “ebb and flow” of the business.

NOW WHAT?

My first reaction about the sale of the Bernardus Marinus Vineyard was pure incredulity.  I kind of took it personally. I did communicate with the winery and I know what a tough decision this was for them. I know they will do their best to continue to produce a high-quality Bourdeaux-style blend to keep their consumers like me happy. I personally hope they can find the fruit from the Carmel Valley AVA, but I might be asking for too much.

Then I started to have crazy thoughts – like how we could pull together a consortium of wine aficionados/investors and vineyard/winemaking experts to purchase this prize property.  It’s fun to think about, but that’s a long stretch. It would be WORK. And I’ve already got a good gig – I’m retired. And as my good friend and Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member says, “The best way to make a small fortune (in winemaking) is to start with a large fortune.”  Nope, I checked…I don’t have one.

So, all I am left with is hope.  Hope that someone who cares about those quality grapevines will buy the vineyard and help preserve Ben Pon’s legacy of making a quality Bordeaux-style blend from Carmel Valley. 

That’s my think piece for today. I’ve gotten over myself. Not a single wine review in today’s post. See, anything is possible.

Heather Rammel and Jim McCabe of Bernardus Wine

Let’s all raise a toast to the Marinus Vineyard and Ben Pon’s legacy!

© Decanting Monterey 2025

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Bernardus Delights Its Members with an Over-the-Top Marinus Dinner!

THE STORY

In November, we attended our third over-the-top Marinus dinner at the Bernardus Winery Tasting Room. I have to say, this is our favorite local event of the year and, I don’t know how, but it just keeps getting more impressive. The 2023 Marinus dinner was an elegant affair. The tables were decorated so beautifully and the service was impeccable. The wines and the food were exquisite, all the way down to the imported flavored French butters!  The Marinus blends are aging nicely and the multi-course food pairings created by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel were sumptuous. You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.

I will confess that I bugged Heather relentlessly about the date for this event, as I knew it was coming and we had been traveling. I for sure didn’t want to miss this event and last year, we got the last 4 seats! Thanks for putting up with me, Heather! When is it next year? 😊

With the recent retirement of winemaker Dean DeKorth, we were hosted by his replacement, Jim McCabe.  We had met him at the previous Marinus dinner and he hosted the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod at the winery this past summer. Jim was fully in his element on this night, informing us about the wines and happenings at the winery. His presence and conversations with the many attendees were so valuable and appreciated.

As if we didn’t already feel special enough, our meal began with the final 3 bottles of the 1993 Marinus – the year of their first bottling of this red blend on its 30th Anniversary. Making a fine Bordeaux wine in Carmel Valley was the vision and dream of founder Ben Pon, who passed away in 2019. And I must say that the 1993 was drinking fine, giving credence and confidence in the longevity of later vintages. Ben Pon’s vision has indeed been realized!

THE WINEMAKER’S STORY

Jim McCabe did not start out wanting to be a winemaker.  Originally from Massachusetts, he got into graduate school in Sonoma to pursue a Masters in Comparative Literature. He took a job at Bernardus while finishing his thesis.

He was impressed by the 2006 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. He found it bigger, fuller, and more enjoyable than the jug wines which were so popular back then.  😊 As a result, he started to take winemaking more seriously. Dean DeKorth, his boss and mentor, taught him much about wine appreciation and winemaking.

THE WINERY

To kick off our event, winemaker Jim McCabe addressed the group with a brief history of the Bernardus Winery and the Marinus vineyard. Motor sport enthusiast and golfer Ben Pon moved here in 1989-1990. He noticed Durney was making intense Cabernets in Carmel Valley/Cachagua and he wanted to see what the area could be for wines. He had a vision to create a small pocket of Bordeaux in Carmel Valley. He wanted to explore what varieties would do well there. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to see what they could do, then added Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. You can read more about the founding and history of Bernardus Winery here.

Over the course of the evening, Jim shared a few tidbits about the winery and winemaking:

  • Bernardus hand harvests its grapes. Jim shared that there is a big difference in quality between machine and hand picking. Machines enter into the mix “Matters Other than Grapes” – MOG.
  • Making Marinus wine is like “squidding.” Seriously, Jim did say that…
  • One of their challenges is how to get grape growing and harvesting right in Cachagua, with its big diurnal shift. Cabernet Sauvignon needs sustained heat. So, they have to pick late.
  • As of the dinner on November 9th, they had still not harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon!  Due to the rains, followed by a cool spring/summer without wildfires, the region enjoyed one of its best and longest growing seasons.
  • The Marinus Vineyard is also a great place for Merlot. They have put a higher percentage of Merlot in the blend over the years. They reevaluate the percentages of the various grape varieties every year to develop their strategy for each vintage’s blend.
  • Marinus is a limited production red blend. They try to get the balance of varietals to show the best bottle – “the best we can” – vs having it taste the same every year. The blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant varietal, changes from year to year. The Signature Marinus is the best of the best. It can be a different blend than the Marinus in a given year.
  • They prefer French barrels and are able to buy 500 new barrels per year. Some old ones get purchased by a local brewery!

THE WINES

Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. I quickly jotted down the blends at a subsequent visit to the tasting room, so I may not have them exactly right. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889) 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!” Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! Awarded TOP RED WINE!

My Review: This was the wine we enjoyed as we walked in the door. I don’t have new notes, so am providing mine from July, which was a blind tasting: Dark berry, cherry and caramel notes with at first hints of barnyard and hay on the nose. Earthy palate of dark fruits with a touch of smoke on the finish. Much more of a big cab style wine. We like it. July 2023

1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)

Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)

My Review: This wine was perfectly paired with the black cod. Dark ruby in color. Spicy, black pepper on the nose. So smooth and rich, elegant. If we were tasting bling, no one would guess it was 30 years old. It’s similar to one of those fine, aged Bordeaux wines we open at home sometimes. November 2023

2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $65 (#39) 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

My Review: Served with the duck confit and smoked lentils. Inky/dark garnet in the glass. Extraction is great says Jim. Slightly earthy nose. Palate is still rich but leaner. Still smooth.  We’ve had this vintage many times over the years and it has been interesting to watch its progression.  Several years ago, we thought it might be past its prime, but it might have been the bottle in the tasting room.  Since that time, as on this night, it has been drinking well. Hang in there, 2010! November 2023

2013 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#157) 35% Caberbet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2013 Marinus is a very deep crimson. On the nose we find dried cranberry aromas accented by subtle spice notes. The palate is intensely flavored with impressions of bright red cherry and plum. The finish shows excellent tannic structure promising a long life for this vintage of Marinus, much like that of a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Served with the pork tenderloin. This is the vintage that caused me to fall in love with Marinus and become a club member. Inky in the glass. Smooth nose of cedar and velvety fruit. Dark berries on the palate. Blackberry and cherry on the finish. Still a favorite. November 2023.

2017 Bernardus Signature Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $125  (#891)

Winery Notes: This was the first tasting of this vintage – opened for us on this special night.  No notes are available yet on their website.

My Review: Dark in the glass. Umami bouquet – go figure. Fresh on the palate. Bright black and red berries on the palate with a licorice finish. A lovely finish. I think it is still young, but the winery thinks it is ready to drink. Showing well and perfectly paired with the venison medallion – a good choice. November 2023.

2014 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290) 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2014 Marinus is very deeply-colored. The aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. The mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Tobacco on the nose. Deep intense berries on the palate with a minty finish. -goes with the earthiness of the raclette. Lovely. November 2023

2019 Bernardus Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 9.0% ABV, valued at $50, not for sale (#1215)             

Winery Notes: Inspired by Sauternes. Can only make this when the conditions are right. Has to be a humid, wet year. Bernardus has only made this 3 times: 2011, 2012, 2019. Can open it and keep it open.

My Review: Honey on the nose. Viscous, with a nice balance between the sweet and orange blossom and a touch of tartness. I enjoyed this wine – a perfect pairing with our orange almond cake. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Bernardus Tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every afternoon except Monday, with slightly different hours each day. Reservations are recommended but not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here, via email tastingroom@bernardus.com, or by calling them at 831-298-8021

 © Decanting Monterey 2023

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