Tagged: Central Coast AVA

East End “Members for the Day” – A Crazy Good Idea!

THE STORY

The tasting rooms in the Carmel Valley Village “East End” (the old White Oaks shopping center) decided to share “Members for the Day” – a member at one winery could taste at all the tasting rooms! With our Tasting Passport in hand, we could taste at Parsonage, Corral Wine Co., Chesebro, Windy Oaks, Austin Harlow, and I. Brand & Family! How cool was that!

ABOUT THE EAST END “MEMBERS FOR THE DAY”

Each winery sent an invitation to its members, inviting 2 members plus 2 friends to spend a Sunday afternoon visiting the 6 wineries.  Each prepared a limited menu from which attendees could pick a couple of wines to try.  Or that was the idea, anyway. From the members’ perspective, this was a great way to try wineries we had never been to, bring a friend or two, and meet new people. 

From the tasting room staff perspective, this was a bit of crowd-management chaos, in a fun way. Lots of people signed up and the fine print of only picking a couple of wines at each one was totally lost on the members. Some wineries told us verbally, others printed it on the menu, and yet another simply opened 2 wines as the only ones available that day – smart.

Members who were used to tasting the whole menu showed no restraint. 😊 At one winery, the event overlapped with their spring release, creating added confusion to who was “allowed” to try what! We could see in the eyes of the tasting room staff that some were doing the best they could with as much enthusiasm they could muster, while others looked simply shell-shocked. We members, on the other hand, had a wonderful time. At some wineries, the sales were flowing, so the idea worked for them.

In hindsight, some said that *if* they were ever to do this again, they would limit the invitation to 2 members (no extra friends), make it clearer that people could only pick 2 wines (or only serve 2). Good ideas. I would add: make this an annual event and try not to overlap your releases so there is a single menu. (I know, easier said than done and I am guilty of showing up to do both at once). 

If you attended this event, I would love for you to leave a comment today on your experience at East End “Members for the Day”!!

THE WINES

Today I am presenting 10wines I have not presented before from 5 of the East End “Members for the Day” – Austin Harlow, I. Brand & Family, Chesebro, Windy Oaks and Parsonage.  We also tasted the wines at Corral Wine Co. – you can find my previous reviews of those wines Corral Wine Co.: A Beautiful Portfolio of Tasty Wines! and Corral: Newly Released Pinot Noirs Available Now! Winery notes come from the event tasting sheet or their website. You can read more about each winery on its respective website. Any errors are mine and mine alone. As a rule, I do not correct typos from the wineries’ websites.

2021 Mid Life Crisis Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV , $21 (#1303)

My Review: Pale gold in color and viscous in the glass. Butter on the nose. We found this Chardonnay to be pretty tasty with a buttery and light grapefruit finish. April 2024

2021 Austin Harlow Sharon’s Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $36 (#1304)

My Review: Faint peach on the nose. A nice palate with a grapefruit twist on the end. April 2024

2023 Paysan Rosé, Central Coast AVA, 12.5% ABV, $19 (#1305) 78% Mourvèdre, 11% Cinsault, 11% Grenache.

Winery Notes: “Even though it wasn’t a warm vintage, our 2023 rosé shows more warm climate character, not unlike Spanish rosés, than in past years. The long hang time and ample canopies brought full phenological ripeness for a red wine at rosé sugars and acids. The resultant flavors are more cherry and plum than underripe strawberry and watermelon but in the same refreshing composition as usual.”

My Review: Pale pink in the glass. Light in flavor. Very refreshing. I would drink this in the micro-climate! April 2024

2023 Paysan Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.5% ABV, $24 (#1306)

Winery Notes: “I feel like this last year people finally ‘got’ the Zabala Sauvignon Blanc. It’s not a gooseberry and cat pee SB like we were taught to like from New Zealand (and which has become, in the vein of buttery Chardonnay, a parody of itself) nor the laser thin acid bomb of Sancerre. The Musqué clone it’s based on gives a distinctly melon driven presentation, underscored by river rocks and crushed seashells. It also retains less acidity than other SB clones, which is essential in Arroyo Seco because the winds and cold nights make everything acidic. Our Zabala Sauvignon Blanc is an exceedingly pleasant wine, joyful, friendly, consistent. It’s the white wine you always want in the fridge for when you need a splash.”

My Review: Pale in the glass. Melon, peach and light pineapple on the nose.  The palate is refreshing and light with a lingering finish. April 2024

2023 La Marea Verdelho, Pierce Ranch, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 11.8% ABV, $19 (#1307)

Winery Notes: “I set a goal of exploring more white wines in 2023. We picked up some pretty esoteric stuff, including two grapes off Pierce Ranch. The second will come in the summer, but the first is this delightful Verdelho. Verdelho is a Portuguese grape grown predominantly on the Atlantic islands of Madeira and the Azores. It creates a bright, almost spicy wine redolent of citrus and orchard fruit. This is an exceedingly pleasant quaff. We only made 50 cases of this wine, so don’t pass on it or you’ll miss it!”

My Review: Very pale in color and lacking aromatics.  Light on the palate with some ginger on the finish. We thought this would pair well with food and took one home. April 2024

2023 La Marea Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $25 (#1308)

Winery Notes: “After several short vintages, it’s lovely to finally have a decent crop off Kristy’s. The 2023 vintage was characterized by a comparatively late harvest. Across the 2023s, sugars were late to accumulate and acids remained stubbornly high as phenolics developed in the moderate temperatures. High potassium levels in the juice resulted in higher than usual finished pHs with good titratable acidities (a measure of the total acid content in the wine) meaning that the 2023 whites are deeply flavored, supple and open while remaining focused. Our 2023 Albariño has been showing great with depth and complexity to spare.”

My Review: Pale yellow in the glass. Full-bodied and delicious.  Very balanced in all its flavors. We liked this one so much that we took 2 home! April 2024.

2022 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $27 (#1309)

Winery Notes: “One way to beat the fall heat spikes of 2022 is to pick before they hit. Heat is a fact of life in the San Antonio Valley and the secret is to work with well adapted varieties. Thick skinned Petite Sirah is a lovely choice and on the fractured silicate and calcareous rock of Block One it yields a wine of surprising elegance and grace. I made the wines for Pierce Ranch for several years earlier in my career, so I know the vineyard well and this is one of their premier blocks. Fermented with 30% whole cluster and aged in neutral oak for 11 months.”

My Review: Almost purple in the glass. A nice, black and blue fruit palate with a tannic finish.  I think this will settle down into a very yummy wine. April 2024

2016 Cheseboro Grenache, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $35 (#1310)

Winery Notes: “A savory and robust Grenache from the sandy, well-drained soils of Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco. Only 80 cases produced.  Ripe rasberries and cracked pepper with a firm core of dusty tannins. Aromas of dried sage brush leads off followed by bright red berry fruit and a long caressing finish.”

My Review: Unfortunately, I did not take notes on this wine.  I recall it being quite delicious and full, made in a style I would prefer my Grenache to be. April 2024

2018 Windy Oaks Special Release – Le Chaud, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 14.8% ABV, $85 (#1311)

Winery Notes: “Using a special piece of machinery that heat treats specific rows of the vineyard in rapid motion, it decreases the number of mildew sprays and actually increases the phenolics (important flavor contributors) in the grape skins. This results in amplified aromas and black/red fruit characteristics with unusual complexity and layering.”

My Review: I was unable to taste this wine, but my partner did – and I simply wanted to include it today.

2021 Parsonage Wild Card, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $40 (#1312)

Winery Notes: “This iteration of the beloved Wildcard, our preposterous melange of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir, will rock your world. The nose is a fragrant and seductive melange of exotic spices, wild flowers, boysenberry, and cranberry. The palate is marked by cedar notes and blueberry with a vibrant backdrop of red and black fruit in this medium-plus mouthfeel beauty.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Well-melded flavors in this red blend – a great follow-on to the fabulous 2020 vintage, which I am presenting in my DC wine class. Red and black fruits dance on the medium-bodied palate. This wine is still young and has great potential. April 2024

THE TASTING ROOMS

The Carmel Valley Village “East End” tasting rooms are located at 19 East Carmel Valley Road.  Please check each winery’s website for their specific hours.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

*FOLLOW ME ON CELLAR TRACKER: Central Coast Sharon

Austin Hope Troublemaker: “still stirring things up”

THE STORY

Today’s post is just a simple story, but I uncovered greatness behind it. I found today’s wine at an airport hotel restaurant/bar. I was asking if another wine was a blend and the staff pointed me to this Austin Hope Troublemaker: “still stirring things up.”

ABOUT AUSTIN HOPE

Austin Hope is part of the Hope Family Wines, named 2022 American Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.

“Austin Hope is the mark of our family’s multigenerational legacy in Paso Robles, reserved for the finest expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon and  estate Rhône varieties. These are the definitive wines from Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 American Winery of the Year.

““The goal is simple: to make wines that express everything Paso Robles has to offer, with its pastoral beauty, perfect soils, maritime climate and limitless possibility.” Austin Hope

“Winemaker Austin Hope created his namesake label in 2000, just five years after taking the helm of the family business. Austin Hope wines were initially dedicated to Rhône varieties grown at the Hope family’s estate vineyard.

“Then, in 2017, after years of exploration and only when he felt he could create something truly exceptional, Austin released his first Cabernet Sauvignon—which became an immediate standard-bearer of Paso Robles.

“Today, Austin Hope wines are synonymous with Austin’s personal quest to elevate Paso Robles on the world stage.

ABOUT TROUBLEMAKER: Still Stirring Things Up

“In Austin Hope’s younger days he was something of a troublemaker. And on those days when his schoolwork or attitude didn’t quite live up to the family’s expectations, he was sent to the vineyards for a hard day’s work meant to teach him a lesson. Little did the Hope’s know that this childhood punishment would be the beginning of a life-long passion and career. It was in those days spent in the vineyards, the Paso Robles sun beating down and his hands in the dirt, that Austin found inspiration for his life’s journey.

“Troublemaker is inspired by those early days of pushing boundaries and finding your path. Still stirring things up, we here at Troublemaker are all about challenging the status quo and embracing the journey of life. The way we see it, rules restrict our ability to create and innovate. Besides, pushing the boundaries is fun.”

Sub AVAs: Central Coast (Paso Robles – Creston/El Pomar/Estrella, Arroyo Grande Valley, Monterey)

Varietals: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah

THE WINE

Today, I am presenting just this one wine. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

Austin Hope Troublemaker Red Blend, Central Coast AVA, $20 (#1255)

Winey Notes: “Troublemaker Blend 16 has an opaque purple color. The nose is bursting with jammy boysenberry and blackberry, along with a fresh hint of raspberry. These fruit aromas carry through to the palate and are accentuated by underlying tones of peppercorns, dried tobacco and roasted coffee. Velvety tannins and balancing acidity bring out the vibrant fruit character of this complex blend.”

“Comprised of varietals that flourish in Paso Robles’ distinct growing region, Troublemaker consists of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Zinfandel. Syrah is the backbone of the wine, setting the stage for a fruit-forward style and a full body. Petite Sirah contributes to the deep ruby color. Sweet and bright red fruit flavors of Grenache blend with the rustic and lively flavors of the Mourvèdre, while Zinfandel adds its signature zing to round out the blend.”

My Review: Dark in the glass with earth, plum and black fruits.  Dark and brooding on the palate, with tobacco, plum, cassis and coffee. It’s a big, complex, heavy wine that comes at a great value. I’d like to try this again when I know it is a fresh pour. January 2024

THE TASTING ROOM

“The Austin Hope & Treana Tasting Cellar offers seated tastings with a casual, fun approach to award winning, world class wines. The spacious, unique tasting areas are a blend of eclectic décor, lounges and outdoor cabanas overlooking the estate vines. We look forward to sharing our wines, our passion and creating an exceptional experience for you. Reservations are strongly encouraged as we sell out frequently.”

Located at 1585 Live Oak Road in Paso Robles.  Open 10-5 daily.  You can get more information and make a reservation here.

For additional information please call 805-238-4112 or email cheers@hfwines.com

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


The Latest from I Brand with the Monterey AWS!

I love it when wineries enthusiastically welcome the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for our monthly First Friday WinedUP events. And Will and Angie from the I Brand & Family Tasting Room did just that for us in early February, sharing the latest from I Brand with our Monterey AWS group.

THE STORY – The Latest from I Brand with the Monterey AWS!

ABOUT THE MONTEREY AWS CHAPTER

The Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society  was founded in early 2020 – just before the pandemic. Many of its early activities had to take place over Zoom.  As things reopened, it began its monthly First Friday WinedUP events, visiting a different local winery tasting room to improve its knowledge of the region and our wines.  I’ve been advising them for a while now on places to go, wines to taste.

If you are interested in joining the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society, first join the national American Wine Society and pick Monterey as your local chapter. You can see our events on our local chapter page. 

SETTING THINGS UP WITH I BRAND & FAMILY

When I reached out to Will Larkin at I Brand & Family, he was immediately enthusiastic about the idea.  We set the date for February 2.  In a few quick emails we established the pricing and size of the event.  Piece of cake!

I Brand had its A-team – Angie and Will – on tap for the event.  They had prepared a special tasting menu just for our group.  We started with a rose pre-wine while we waited for everyone to arrive. 

Angie and Will know everything about I Brand & Family wines. Will shared with the group some facts and figures about how the have the largest portfolio of any single winery in Monterey County. He explained the single vineyard, old vines nature of the I Brand & Family label (as opposed to La Marea and Paysan, the other two labels). We discussed the news reported by Laura Ness in Edible Monterey that Ian Brand Expands into Dorcich Facility – such a fabulous opportunity for Ian Brand. 

AND, SO, HOW WAS THE TASTING?

We were delighted that so many of our members turned out for the occasion. Everyone enjoyed the tasting room venue, the quality and value of the wines, the hospitality, and the ability to mingle about and socialize.  As a special treat, we welcomed some new members to our group!

THE WINES

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  All of these wines we tasted at this event have been presented before and many are available at these 2 links:  I Brand & Family: Rare Holiday Vertical Tasting Follows Low Key Autumn Release! and I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  The rest you can easily find by putting their number (example: #957) in the search bar on www.decantingmonterey.com.  You will also find more detailed winemaker’s notes there.

I have 6 wines with updated tasting notes to present to you today from I Brand’s3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.  Winery notes come from their newsletters or other websites as noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Pale pink in color. Slightly sweet watermelon on the nose, followed by a perfect rose palate. I would use this in a class and would drink one in the micro-climate! February 2024

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

According to Will, Arneis is a northern Italy varietal which is planted to help fight phylloxera!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review:  Light golden in the glass. Caramel and floral on the nose. Crisp and clean on the palate with honey notes and a long finish. A very nice wine. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromatics of Meyer lemon and nutty pralines lead the way on the nose, quickly evolving into a beautiful floral bouquet of honeysuckle. Bright acidity starts things off on the palate with layers of fruit; including underripe pear and granny smith apple, rounding out with a warmth reminiscent of quince. The bright acidity blends with well-integrated tannins, finishing neatly with toasted oak.”

My Review:  Hint of burnt sugar and honey on the nose. Balanced, with a slightly buttery finish. The French oak aging presents itself in a very balanced way, with the toasty notes and hint of butter.  This wine is year over year perhaps the best Chardonnay made in Monterey County. February 2024

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. I detected cherry and caramel on the nose. The savory palate was laced with crushed berries and root beer flavors, with a touch of smoke on the finish. February 2024

2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review:  Dark in the glass. Sweet and herbaceous on the nose. The “California chaparral” shines through, with cherry notes on the finish.  This is drinking well – good and tasty. Excellent quality for value. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)             

Winemaker’s Notes: “The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”

My Review:  Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and green pepper on the palate. Presents as a Cabernet Franc, light and lean. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with cherry notes and a slightly tannic finish. Richer than the DeRose. Lovely wine. Would be great with a meal. February 2024

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


I Brand & Family: Rare Holiday Vertical Tasting Follows Low Key Autumn Release!

THE STORY

I Brand & Family had a low key Autumn Release in November with pickups in the tasting room and not at a party at the winery.  Ian explained why: harvest and crush were very late this year due to the cool spring and long growing/ripening season. Instead, he hosted a member holiday party in December, where we were able to taste verticals of their Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre wines. What a treat!  There was also great music by El Pecado de Juana, delicious tamales Oaxaquenos by Pedro Martinez & Family and a vegan pozole by Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Cultura.

I decided to enjoy that party and not try to take notes, as we sorted out which, if any, wines we would take home – one of each variety the 2013 La Marea Grenache, the 2017 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, and the 2018 P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon – one of the last with the old label!

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  You can find the latest two !!!! here: A Quick Catch-Up Post on I Brand & Family Wines and I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops! 

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.  These wines were all from that low key Autumn 2023 Release.  As typical with Ian’s wines, they span a number of our local AVAs across 3 counties!  Winery notes come from the winery’s tech sheets (thank you, Will!). Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2022 La Marea Alt-Cut’ Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $30 (#1222)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Honeysuckle on the nose. Bright acidity on the palate – a very tasty wine. November 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#1223)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This wine is bursting with bright honeydew melon and white pepper on the initial nose, evolving into savory notes of saffron and tarragon. The attack on the palate is full of juicy fruit with a prevalent creamy salinity on the back reminiscent of Salazar oysters. Soft acid builds on the front and provides a distinct glycerin mouthfeel that lingers into more of a hum of soft acidity that permeates the palate.”

My Review:  Hay in the glass. Honey on the nose. Baking spices and honey on the palate. Fairly sweet. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)             

Winemaker’s Notes: “Location: DeRose is a 25-year-old own rooted planting of Cabernet Franc. The DeRose Vineyard is part of the old Vaché planting and is the oldest continuously producing commercial vineyard in California. It was subsequently owned by William Palmtag and Almaden Winery, at which time it housed the largest barrel storage room in the world. Soils are a mix of lime and granite. The hill above the Cabernet Franc block is occupied by a lime mine…

“Tasting Notes: The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”

My Review:  Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and black pepper on the palate. Delightful. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon on the nose. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with a slightly tannic finish. This will age into a nice wine. November 2023.

2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review:  Garnet in color. Cinnamon and plum on the nose. Cherry on the palate. Tart palate with a touch of central coast funk. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.9% ABV, $85 (#1227)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite, and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review:  Almost purple in the glass. Black berries on the nose. Delicious berries on the palate. Smooth on the palate. Nice tannins. Maybe a touch vegetal on the finish. Buy this wine – it has great potential. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#1228)              

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Rich dark berries on the nose with a touch of smoke or dirt – in a good way. Very dark palate. IMHO, this is his best Syrah to date – I took one home. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Comanche Cellars: A Story About a Man, His Horse, and Good Wine!

THE STORY

I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”

We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society (AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us.  My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.

The Comanche Tasting Room, located at ​412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter.  Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds.  We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.

We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery.  His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse.  In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines.  We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!

ABOUT COMANCHE CELLARS (from their website)

“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards.  Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!

“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!

“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”

THE WINES

I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)

There is a story about this wine.  It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine.  They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!

Winery Notes: “N/A.”

My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023

2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)

Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023

2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)

Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”

My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.

2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.

2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV  (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache

Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote

wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”

My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish.  During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.

2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)

I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023

2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review:  Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023

2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)

Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”

My Review:  Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023

NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane

Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red

cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics.  Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel.  This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal.  Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit.  Good depth.”  My favorite wine of the day. October 2023

2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38        (#1167)

Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this

single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos:  Inky purple in color.  Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate.  A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”

The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. ​831-747-2244.  Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and ​Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!

They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Folktale: a tradition that changes over time!

by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!

THE STORY

We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June.  He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately.  Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer!  Lesson learned:  pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!

Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.

If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.

When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.

The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic. 

Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations.  Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time.  I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.

Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year. 

David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up.  He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021.  And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!

Sangiovese

After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room.  Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed.  It would encompass the Folktale property.  It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.

Our mutual assessment:  We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years.  They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.

ABOUT THE WINEMAKER

“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.

“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”

“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale,  Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

ABOUT LE MISTRAL

We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story:  Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!

Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.

ABOUT COMMON THREAD

Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!

2021 Folktale Talking Animals Pétillant-Naturel (Pet-Nat) Sparkling Wine, Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, 12.9% ABV, $35 (#1120)

Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023

2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)

Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby.  Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023

NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)            

I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made.  Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it:  You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses.  You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.

I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:

“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”

Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines. 

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.

Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity.  August 2023

Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.

Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.

2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023

2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann

Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023

2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus.  The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”

Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)        

2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines.  The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.

My Review:  Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm.  You can get more information and make a reservation here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


And Now: The Final Post on the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This is part 3 of my experience there. Please read Part 1 here and Part 2 here for more details. And many thanks again to the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for the tickets!

Today’s post will cover these local wineries and some of the wines they presented that day: Lepe Cellars, Windy Oaks Estate, Wrath, McIntyre Vineyards, and Galante Vineyards. Because these are the last wineries we visited that day, our tasting notes are skimpy – we focused more on conversations with the winemakers and staff. Winery notes come from their website or conversation with the winemaker, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

THE WINERIES/WINES

LEPE CELLARS

It was so nice to finally meet Miguel Lepe! He is one of our bright, creative NextGen winemakers – and one to watch!  I’ve tasted his wines several times and was so happy to finally meet him.  I admire the fact he is willing to make the kinds of big reds I like – in our land of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I previously wrote about Lepe Cellars here: Lepe Cellars: A New Face on the Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Circuit! I’m also working on a Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society event at his tasting room in Carmel-By-The-Sea in the next few months!

2022 Lepe Cellars Sangiovese Rosé, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $30 (#1109)

Winery Notes: “This bright, stone fruit focused dry Rosé starts out with a burst of peach and apricot leading into hints of tangerine. Pairs well with seared salmon, lobster and tuna tartare.”

My Review: By now, our tasting notes have been reduced to a few words. This rosé exhibited a mellow nose.  The Sangiovese grapes made this a very tasty version. August 2023

2020 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#1110)

Winery Notes: “Elegant aromas of wild strawberry, savory soy and light licorice show on the nose of this pure varietal. Dark plum and cherries show on the first sip, with a bit of earthy forest floor woven with pepper, oak and tannin creating a velvety, rich texture.”

My Review: Plummy and jammy on the nose. Tobacco and dark fruits on the palate. Very nice. August 2023

WINDY OAK ESTATE

I met Kerry Winslow in the Windy Oaks Tasting Room a few years back.  Extremely knowledgeable and friendly, Kerry is a class act – and he is everywhere.  After years of reading and quoting the wine blog grapelive.com, I finally put two and two together. And he has a great presence on Instagram and LinkedIn – follow him! He had us try a few wines on this day. We were just about at the end of this event, so note taking was practically non-existent. My apologies, Kerry.  I can do better. I previously wrote up Windy Oaks here: Windy Oaks: Les Deux Grands Crus and More Pinot Noir!

2018 Windy Oaks Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $32(#1111)

Winery Notes: Kerry indicated that this is a particular parcel of the Escolle Vineyard farmed especially for them.

Winemaker notes from wine.com: “Brilliant crisp golden delicious apple, bosc pear, lemon and pineapple fruits unfold on the rich palate along with hints of nutmeg, clove spice, butter rum and golden figs.

“This Chardonnay is sourced exclusively from the Escolle Vineyard near the famous Garys’ Vineyard, which is set on the classic sandy loams with touches of quartz and granite. All barrel fermented and aged in French oak with bâtonnage (stirred lees), it sees malolactic secondary fermentation which adds depth and texture to this lively wine.”

My Review: This is a very delicious, oaky, buttery, and creamy Chardonnay and currently available on their website. August 2023

2021 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1112)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: You all know I am not the biggest Pinot Noir fan, but I liked this one.  It had a very nice, lean palate with enough complexity to hold my interest. August 2023

2016 Windy Oaks Diane’s Block Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1113)

Winery Notes from wine.com: “Grown on 5-acre block, all estate, slightly warmer site, at a lower elevation, resulting in a bit more fruit forward notes. Exciting density and ultra-smooth ripe/creamy tannins with a stylish nose of wild strawberry/rhubarb and lavender. More subtle in the nose it saves its forward nature for a medium full attack on the lush palate showing fine detail and an array of red fruit flavors, mineral tones and sweet and sour notes, finishing long and spicy. The mouth feel makes an impact with layers of raspberry, black cherry and fresh picked plum along with a hint of French oak and savory spices that add excellent contrast in this serious and structured Pinot.”

My Review: It was a real treat to be able to taste this vintage of the Diane’s Block.  However, I apologize for lack of good tasting notes.Garnet in the glass with a touch of acidity on the finish. 2023

WRATH

We became quick fans of Wrath thanks to their broad portfolio of wines, especially, for me, their Syrahs.  It was through their wines that we began to get to know some of the great vineyards of Monterey County, such as their own San Saba Vineyard, the Tondré Grapefield in the Santa Lucia Highlands, and, more recently, KW Ranch, also in the Santa Lucia Highlands.  Because of their different lines of wines – and if I happen upon a good sale, I can even squeeze their EX (formerly Ex Animus) wines from time to time into one of my East Coast wine classes. And when I needed a Falanghina for my part of a virtual wine class, Wrath had one. You can read about it here: Ancient Roman Winemaking Meets Modern Viticulture!

2020 Wrath Swan/828 Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $39 (#1114)

Winery Notes: “Dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness highlight the characteristics of our growing area… This clonal blend uses all estate grown grapes.  It combines dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness on the nose.  The palate offers a balance of structure and acidity that compliments elegant, focused red berry and cherry cola with a hint of forest floor.  Nimble and pure, it terminates with a long clean finish that is enhanced with a touch of mineral.”

My Review: This wine was interesting to me, as the smokey, earthy nose contrasted with the rich palate of fruit which followed. August 2023

2020 Wrath Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $49 (#1115)

Winery Notes: “Wines made from master-grower Steve McIntyre’s vineyard often exhibit the telltale characteristics of Santa Lucia Highlands terroir.  Our 2020 McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir is no exception.  Comprised of 100 percent 115 clone and made with 20 percent whole-cluster fermentation, it is dense and complex, with pomegranate, a touch of smoke and a mineral element.  Berry flavors of cranberry and pomegranate remain persistent, blending with red currant, more mineral and bright acidity in a structured finish.” 94pts- Wine Enthusiast

“The 2020 Wrath McIntyre Pinot follows instep with previous vintages and displays classic red and black cherry flavors with a distinctive underlying minerality.”

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir wines that come from the McIntyre Vineyard and this one is no exception. This one was quite rich in the palate and delicious. August 2023

MCINTYRE VINEYARD

About two years ago, we happened to be in the Crossroads Shopping Center in Carmel and popped into McIntyre. It was a very quiet afternoon, so we got to taste a wide variety of Pinot Noirs.  That is when McIntyre Vineyards Pinot Noirs got my attention – I tasted some I actually liked!  You can read about that experience here: Impressive Pinot Noirs from Steve McIntyre Bring SLH to Life! Now I seek them out at events like these to validate my first impression! At the trade event this past August, we got to meet Kristen McIntyre and talk a bit about the wines.  Again, apologies.  As our penultimate stop, our notes are skimpy.

2019 McIntyre Family Wines Winemaker Series Don Van Staaveren Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $50 (#1116)

Winery Notes: “The idea for the Winemaker Series was born out of impatience and age-related urgency! If I’m lucky I’ll get to participate in another 20 to 30 vintages as our vineyards and wines evolve. Collaborating with a diverse set of winemakers and viticulturists provides exciting opportunities to experiment and accelerate our pace of discovery. Each Winemaker brings their own style and experience, just as a great chef or a musician, to the process of producing a life enhancing experience best shared with others” – Steve McIntyre

“Smells of bright, candied cherry fruit. The remarkably pure and crystalline cherry flavours have an aromatic sweetness to them that charms, while excellent acidity keeps the saliva flowing. Boisterous and bright with barely perceptible tannins. This expression of cherry will bring a smile to most drinkers.” (Alder Yarrow) Wine Enthusiast: 94 points

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir fruit and winemaking style from McIntyre.  This one was quite delicious. Classic and elegant. I now have a better appreciation for the Winemaker Series of their wines and will stop by to taste some more. August 2023

2018 McIntyre Merlot, Kimberly Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $30 (#1117)

Winery Notes: “Our 2018 Kimberly Vineyard is the epitome of Goldilocks-climate Merlot. It marries the lavish, ripe fruit of a warm site with the elegance and structure of a cool locale. As in previous years, the dominant character traits include blackberry, anise, cassis and dried currants. Below that is a bed of juicy black fruit and supple, silky tannins. While it drinks well now, this Merlot will continue to evolve and improve over the next decade.” (Steve McIntyre)

My Review: Sadly, I have zero tasting notes for this wine and will have to revisit it in their Crossroads Tasting Room in Carmel!

GALANTE VINEYARDS

While I have presented Galante wines on my website before (check out Galante: Now This Cowboy Makes Big Reds!, this was my first occasion to meet Jack Galante. The Galante family has a long legacy in the region, with his grandfather James Frank Devendorf founding Carmel-by-the-Sea and the Highlands Inn!  You can read more about the Galante history on their website.

A few years back, Galante sold its vineyards and winery to Tira Nanza (see above) and today it sources grapes from a variety of vineyards “from Paso Robles to Napa,” with most of their grapes coming from the Carmel Valley AVA, according to their website. According to Jack, they are still managing some vineyards.

Galante was the very last table we stopped at during this event – and my lack of tasting notes reflect that.  I haven’t been to their tasting room in a couple of years, so I will try to get back out there soon!

2021 Galante Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Blackjack Pasture, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $80 (#1118)

Winery Notes: N/A – pre-release

My Review: My only note was that this was one heck of a serious cab.  I definitely need to retaste this wine when it is released! August 2023

2021 Galante Vineyards Legacy Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $85 (#1119) 54% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winery Notes: “This ongoing series celebrates Jack’s great-grandfather’s – James Frank Devendorf – vision, who founded the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Aged in new French Oak for 15 months, this Bordeaux-style wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, featuring blackberries, violets and cocoa on the nose. Dried cherry and strawberry middle notes lead to a long, lingering finish of spice and tobacco. Cellar-worthy for many decades, but enjoyable right now as well.”

My Review: The only notes I took said that this wine exhibited some rather intense fruit – also worthy of a retaste soon! August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

All of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel, Carmel Valley, or out River Road – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event in Drizzly Carmel!

THE STORY

I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.” The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This event was organized by Kim Stemler, Executive Director, and Tina Huynh, Membership & Program Coordinator, of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association. I am grateful to have been able to participate for the first time in this event. I also thank I Brand & Family for validating this by sending me a personal invitation.

The event was held at 7th and Steak in Carmel-By-The-Sea on what started out as a drizzly morning. We paid no attention to the drizzle and immediately headed to the back patio to start tasting wines alphabetically.  28 wineries were scheduled to pour several wines each, which meant there was a lot to do in our limited time.  My partner and I have a strategy: we prioritize wineries at which we have not tasted, we choose 2 wines at each winery table, we share the taste, and dump the rest. 

We really valued the opportunity to talk directly to the winemakers, CEOs, vineyard managers, tasting room managers and others at this special event.  Each winery was a unique experience.  Although we didn’t get to every table, I nonetheless have a lot of wines to present from this event.  I struggle with how to do that and not get grossly behind in my posts.  I’m expecting 3 posts to cover this single event. So, I am continuing my twice weekly post until I get caught up.

THE WINES

I have 12 wines to present to you today these local wineries: Caraccioli Cellars, Corral Wine Co., Folktale Winery, Holman Ranch, J Lohr, and Lucy Wines. Winery notes come from their websites or conversations with the representatives at this event. It was eye opening for me to see the wholesale prices for the wines.  While I am usually extended an industry discount, I am grateful for the occasional offer of the wholesale price for my wine education events.  That allows me to present higher quality local wines in nonprofit, budget-limited classes.  Any errors in this post are mine and mine alone. I encourage you to check their websites regarding tasting opportunities!

CARACCIOLI CELLARS

Caraccioli Cellars is one of the best places to taste sparkling wines in Monterey County, with their Brut Rosé being one of my top choices for a special celebration. We were excited to learn about their Private Property label – a second label to bring a more affordable option to highlighting our region while still leveraging grapes from the family’s highly acclaimed Escolle Vineyard. 

2021 Private Property Brut Rosé, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $40        (#1086) 57% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir

My Review: Very pale pink in color. Not too yeasty on the nose. Very crisp and tart with a lot of fruit flavors. Fine bubbles dissipated quickly. August 2023

2017 Caraccioli Cellars Brut Cuvee, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $60 (#1087)

Winery Notes: “Produced as a mixed cépage of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%), this wine is aged on the lees four years. Bright and fresh with layers of depth and structure, the Brut Cuvée is our flagship wine.” 93 Points Wine Enthusiast

My Review: A little barnyard on the nose. Fine bubbles on the crisp and slightly tart palate. Classic. I would like to present this one in a class. August 2023

CORRAL WINE CO.

It was great to see winemaker Adrien Valenzuela at this event and taste some brand new vintages!  I like to present Corral wines in my classes because I believe Adren is one of the best up-and-coming winemakers in our region.  While his whites are very tasty, what he can do with red varietals and blends is impressive. I say, “Watch this space!!”

2022 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1088)

My Review: Honeydew on the nose. A nice, round palate finishing with pineapple and citrus fruits. August 2023

2022 Corral “Pancho’s Chard” Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#1089)

My Review: Nice, crisp palate. Smooth, well-melded fruit. Tasty. August 2023

FOLKTALE WINERY

As of this event, I had not yet been to Folktale for a formal tasting, but was scheduled for a winery tour with winemaker David Baird the very next day! (Post coming soon!!)

Folktale Brut Sparkling Wine, Monterey County, 11.8% ABV, $40 (#1090)

Winery Notes: “Light and refreshing, we made our Brut to enjoy on its own or paired with, well, just about anything. This sparkling wine opens with notes of green apple, banana, and tropical kiwi, developing into flavors of peach and tart strawberry on the palate. Enjoy chilled and often.”

My Review: A sweet nose. Tiny bubbles on the light, pleasant palate. August 2023

2022 Common Thread Three Strands Red Wine Blend, Central Coast AVA, 12.8% ABV, $40 (#1091) 57% Pinot Noir, 28% Pinot Gris, 15% Pinot Meunier

Winery Notes: Description of the 2021: “A blend of 2 red and 1 white grape varieties, this natural wine exudes character. Juicy with bright red fruits and exotic spice, the wine has bright acidity and fine whole-cluster tannin. Pairs wonderfully with vegetarian dishes or as a refreshing aperitif wine.” This is David’s own label.

My Review: Slightly cherry nose. A little tart. Very balanced with some cinnamon on the finish. Would be good with food! August 2023

HOLMAN RANCH

For us, it was a real treat to meet Kirstie Dyer, the CEO of Holman Ranch at this event.  I really owe Holman Ranch a visit (they make a Syrah now, after all!) and would love to see the ranch itself.

2019 Holman Ranch Jarman Estate Reserve Brut Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $114 (magnum) (#1092)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Reserve Jarman Sparkling Brut Rosé begins with a bright citrus nose of grapefruit and lemon, carried by balanced marine salinity. Notes of raspberry and strawberry introduce a warm palate, enhanced by a hint of freshly risen dough, showing great precision. A well-integrated, restrained dosage is complemented by a persistent méthode champenoise mousse.” 87% Pinot Noir, 13% Chardonnay

My Review: Barely pink – very light in glass. We liked the flavors and the bubbles in this sparkling rosé. August 2023

2022 Holman Ranch Estate Susan’s Saignée Rosé of Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $37 (#1093)

Winery Notes: “The 2022 Susan’s Saignée Rosé shows a light salmon hue in the glass. This wine has aromas of bright strawberry and watermelon, accompanied by more tropical characteristics. The palate gives passion fruit, lemon peel and orange blossom, adding complexity. This wine is clean and lively with balanced acidity.” Made from 667 and 777 clones.

My Review: Pale pink in glass with a slightly sweet nose. Yeasty, lean palate. Metallic taste. Not a patio wine. August 2023

J LOHR

I enjoy seeing J Lohr at these events, even though I put them in a different category from our smaller, local vintners. It was terrific to meet Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wine located in Greenfield. The wines they presented today allowed us to try some different things. Would be nice if there were a tasting room in the county, but I guess I’ll just have to get down to Paso Robles more!

2021 J Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1094)

Winery Notes: “The 2021 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay exhibits intriguing aromas of paperwhites, Meyer lemon, ripe apple, pear, and crème brulée. The rich palate texture is balanced by layered flavors of pear, lemon cream, baking spices, and minerality, with a long, sweet oak finish.” 94 Points, Best of Class, Gold at the 2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition

My Review: A bright, pale yellow in the glass. Butter and pineapple on the nose, carrying over to the palate. Tasty. I liked it. August 2023

2022 J Lohr Wildflower Valdigué, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1095)

Winery Notes: “Crafted in the style of Beaujolais wines. This light-bodied red wine from Monterey is perfect when served chilled and can pair with a wide variety of foods…Served slightly chilled, displays inviting fresh raspberry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas, with a bit of black pepper and hibiscus. Flavors of brambly, bright red berry with a touch of spice, mid-palate acidity lead to a juicy, mouthwatering finish.”

My Review: So very purple in color. Cranberry, hibiscus, and plum on the nose. A surprisingly lean palate, yet quite tasty. Not a typical varietal we find bottled in these parts. August 2023

LUCY

I had never head of Lucy before, so I am including a bit of extra information about them – I was stuck by their affordability for the quality – and their charity-driven purpose.

About Lucy: “Welcome to Lucy, made by the Pisoni family. Elegant, approachable, meaningful, and fun. The Lucy philosophy is to craft beautiful wines that are classically made for pure and vibrant expressions. The wines also represent important aspects of our region’s history and community…

“The wines we take great care in crafting under our Lucy label are standouts for us in their ability to combine glamor with versatility. Because they pair well with a wide range of dishes, they’ll shine in any setting. We’re particularly proud to be able to match these three wines to a trio of outstanding causes: funds to support breast cancer research, ocean conservancy, and the Big Sur Fire Department.”

You can read more about the making of these wines here: https://lucywines.com/behind-the-wine/

2022 Lucy Wines Rosé of Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $24 (#1096)

Winery Notes: “If the Lucy Rose of Pinot Noir offers any preview into the quality of the coming wines for a given vintage, rest assured that 2022 will certainly be a vintage to remember. Sporting shades of melon, salmon, and coral that are classic for a Lucy Rosé, this beautiful offering packs unyielding aromatic intensity as it chills and condensates on the sides of the glass. Delicate at first with notes of fresh strawberry and subtle, mineral driven undertones, this wine begins to offer complexities seldom seen in rose as it warms slightly. Plush notes of peach blossom and watermelon waft into the air, as the first sips offer citrus driven flavors of tangerine and orange peel, backed by tart raspberry and rose petal. Brief but impactful aging in 100% neutral French oak barrels offers an added layer of texture that pairs seamlessly with fresh, prickly acidity.”

My Review: Pale salmon in color. Musty goodness on the nose, perhaps the best smelling rose of the day.  Followed by big rose flavors, making it the tastiest rose of the day. August 2023

2022 Lucy Wines Pico Blanco White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, $26 (#1097)

Winery Notes: “Our blend of pinot gris and pinot blanc is named Pico Blanco to commemorate a mountain peak in Monterey County known for its beauty and its high-grade limestone mineral deposits. With Pico Blanco, we pay homage to Monterey County’s earliest grape growing traditions–traditions in which pinot gris, an early-planted cool climate grape in the region–played a central role. Crafting this wine is a way for us to locate ourselves in historical time and place and to respect the traditions of grape growing in Monterey County.

“As always, purity and complexity continue to be our focus. The pinot gris and pinot blanc grapes to be blended into Pico Blanco are hand-sorted and carefully pressed to moderate the extraction and flavor derived from their skins. We use entirely neutral barrels for fermentation to sustain the purity of the fruit and to augment its texture. We also depend exclusively upon native yeast. Doing so is another way we maintain the traditional winemaking practices we prize. At the same time, this practice allows us to coax complex flavors from the fruit. We bottle Pico Blanco without any fining.”

My Review: A delightful, floral nose. Round flavors on the palate. Lingering finish. August 2023.

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – I encourage you to get out there and try them for yourselves! please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  

THE STORY

As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley.  We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections.  We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side.  What fun!

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:

1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!

2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others.  While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines. 

THE WINES

Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS

We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.

Cabernet Francs:

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose.  Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir.  This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.

Cabernet Sauvignons:

This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75     (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate.  More Napa-like in overall composition.

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.

TODAY’S WINES

I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish.  We liked this wine. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”

My Review:  Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023

2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”

My Review: Straw in the glass.  Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis.  Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic.  Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’.  The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”

My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose.  A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish.  This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023

2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023

2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)

Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”

My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance.  Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)

Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”

My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose.  A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


I Brand & Family’s Spring 2023 Release: Some Very Special Surprises!  

The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us.  There is always something surprising to taste.  And the most recent one in March was no exception.  It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting.  In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality.  Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.

I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely.  Then comes the great part:  deciding which wines we will take home!

I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)

Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program.  We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.

“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”

My Review:  Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache  

Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.

“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass.  A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”

My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.

“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”

My Review:  112-year-old vines! Garnet in color.  Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the  darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”

“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.

“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice.  A bright palate with cranberry notes.  It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.

“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Make a Donation!


SIGN UP HERE TO GET Decanting Monterey DELIVERED STRAIGHT TO YOUR EMAIL!!

Don\'t miss a single exciting post about our Central Coast/Monterey wines! Enter your email address below for a free subscription to Decanting Monterey. Be sure to open the confirmation email and validate your subscription! See you soon!!

Verified by MonsterInsights