In June, we made a trip to Carmel Valley Village to taste I Brand & FamilySummer 2024 releases. We were happy to see Angie and Monica (welcome back!) in the Tasting Room and timed our visit perfectly. We were excited to get a glimpse of the 2023 vintage from Monterey County.
2023 was one of the rainiest, coolest, yet longest growing seasons experienced in recent history. Each vineyard and winemaker needed to determine for themselves how long those grapes could hang, hoping for warm enough weather the reach phenolic perfection. Some winemakers say it was the best vintage, with more ripe flavors shining through, while others have shrugged and said – wait and see. Ian is all in; I’m still in the wait-and-see category. The proof will be in the final product.
The thing I like about Ian’s approach to winemaking is his pursuit of the undiscovered and daredevil approach to bottle atypical varietals, like the Melon de Bourgogne and the Cachudo, and play around with different techniques and blends, like the Supertoothy. His adventurousness keeps us excited about what he will do next. Moreover, he spins a fascinating tale about each of these wines which makes being a member extra special. OK, and he throws a great party. I also value that he carefully prices his wine so there is something for every budget.
p.s. the Melon de Bourgogne comes from the Chalone AVA!
THE WINES – A Glimpse of the 2023 Vintage
I have 8 wines to present to you today from I Brand’s 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan.Winery notes are excerpts from their Summer Release newsletter – become a member to read the whole thing! Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2023 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#1397)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Sometimes overlooked in our expensive lineup, our Vista Verde Arneis is absolutely an oddity, but deserves to be seen more than a sidelight…Arneis, limited to the mountainous Piedmont, is highly regarded by those that know, but often falters outside its home range. The small block on Vista Verde, fortified by its calcareous soils, yield a shockingly, faithful reproduction.”
My Review: Pale in the glass, ale on the nose – hops and minerals with a slightly sweet finish. June 2024
2023 La Marea Cachudo, Pierce Ranch, San Antonio Valley AVA , Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $25 (#1398)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Our ‘Cachudo’ is 97% Arinto from the Pierce Ranch near Lake San Antonio in the Lockwood valley. Arinto is a Portuguese variety known for its highly age worthy and structured whites.…Arinto is sometimes referred to as Cachudo ostensibly for the small protrusions on the ends of its berries in Spanish. Cachudo means having horns.…our Arinto is a resilient wine. It’s a perfect match for the higher elevation valley in the lee of the Coastal Mountains. Redolent with citrus, crest stones, serenity and acid, look for this wine to add a beeswax element if you age it.…”
My Review: This Portuguese varietal was light gold in the glass. Butter and caramel and orange blossom on the nose. Pink grapefruit and minerality on the palate. We appreciate Ian bringing another varietal to light for us. This is a very tasty wine – we took some home! June 2024
2023 I Brand & Family “Supertoothy” Skin Contact White, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 12.7% ABV, $28 (#1399)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Based around the rare Savignon Gris grape from the calcareous hillside of the Vista Verde Vineyard blended with Verdelho, Pinot Gris and Chenin Blanc, our Supertoothy can be described as ‘responsible orange wine’. Neither cloudy, volatile nor particularly orange, when chilled the Supertoothy does white wine stuff with a little extra action in the back section. As it warms, the complexity and structure steps forward and pairs with more robust foods… The five days of skin contact bring depth of character to the Sauvignon Gris which is supercharged when blended. ‘Toothy’ used to mean, collectible or delicious. This is Supertoothy.…”
My Review: The color was one shade brown – with flavors of the golden and the orange. “Creamsicle,” Angie said. I got Sauvignon Blanc and bubble gum on the nose. Bubblegum and tart citrus on the palate. June 2024
2023 Paysan Jacks’ Hill Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $24 (#1400)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This is the latest in string of banner vintages of the Jacks’ Hill Chardonnay. Compared to the last two, it shows more opulent and riper fruit earlier than the ‘21 and ‘22 vintages while carrying a structural and acid backbone similar to the ‘21.…A more joyful expression of the wind, fog and rocky soil that our Jacks’ Hill bottling.”
My Review: A little sweetness on the nose. Lemon and orange on the palate. This wine spent time in concrete, stainless steel and neutral oak. Different from the usual Jacks’ Hill. Not as tropical. June 2024
2023 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#1401)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The skins were so thick and developed in 2023 that our skin contact white and gris wines took on substantially more flavor and color than in the past years, yielding a more robust, almost juicy wine. To balance the robust fruit, this vintage carries one of the highest total acid we’ve had on this wine. The result is distinctly in line with the vintage – more of everything…”
My Review: Light golden in glass. Toast on the nose. Tart on the palate. June 2024
2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Flint Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $36 (#1402)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our second vintage of the Flint Pinot Noir shows the potential of the vineyard, even in a rough vintage for Pinot Noir.… If you like our wines… it’s because, first and foremost, we make sure our vines are on the right soils…I just vastly prefer Pinot Noir on calcareous soils and there isn’t a lot of it on the West Coast.”
My Review: A little cherry and chocolate. We disagreed with each other on smell and palate. I definitely agree with Ian that some of the region’s best Pinot Noirs come from the limestone soils of Cienega Valley and, let me add, Harlan Mountain AVAs in San Benito County. June 2024
2022 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $27 (#1403)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “…Made from vines from the 60’s and 70’s planted in calcareous alluvial deposits on the cooler edge of Cabernet climate, fermented and open top vats with endemic yeast and aged in older casks for less than $30, even the most knowledgeable of wine merchants would be hard pressed to find anything comparable.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in glass. Cherry and dark berry notes on the nose, carrying over to the palate. I really like this bargain wine and would enjoy it as an every day wine. It doesn’t taste like the typical California Cabernet Sauvignon. June 2024
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.5% ABV, $48 (#1404)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “We’re betting heavily on the Stagecoach Block at Bates Ranch…This 2021 version, the second we’ve made for our own label…shows why I’ve been trumpeting 2021 as the most age-worthy vintage I’ve worked. This wine is damn tasty unreleased and will only get better. You could pay a whole lot more for Cabernet with less pedigree and potential, but why would you?”
My Review: Cinnamon and spice on the nose. We like this wine – an age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon – a superb value. June 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
If you want a glimpse of the 2023 vintage, head on over to the I Brand & Family Tasting Room, located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
When Greg Freeman, winemaker at Chalone Vineyard, mentioned to me last summer that they were looking for a spot to open a new Chalone tasting room, I had no idea they would find one right in Carmel Plaza – perfect for a group! I jumped on the opportunity to schedule the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for our monthly First Friday WinedUP events. Stacey, the tasting room manager, was terrific to set things up with and offered us a special industry discount. This is my first time presenting Chalone Vineyard in Decanting Monterey.
When you talk abut the deep winemaking history in Monterey County, Chalone Vineyard plays a large role. From their website:
“Perched in the remote Gavilan Mountain range, 1,800 feet above California’s Salinas Valley, this rugged vineyard sits at the base of an extinct volcano bordering the Pinnacles National Park. Chalone Vineyard is one of the few wineries in the U.S. growing grapes in limestone-based soils, the same as in Burgundy. The spare, well-drained ground, limited rainfall, and low crop levels attracted Dick Graff, who wanted to make top-flight Burgundian-styled Chardonnay. Graff made his first vintage under the Chalone Vineyard label in 1966, producing what became a benchmark for California Chardonnay.
“Today, we continue to focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We also produce limited amounts of Pinot Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Syrah. All of our estate wines are grown and bottled at the estate, meaning we control everything from vine to bottle.”
Its history starts with the first plantings in 1919, its first wine in 1966, and the Paris Judgement in 1976, where its 1974 Chardonnay placed 3rd! To read more about its history and the significant role of Dick Graff, please click here.
Today it is guided by winemaker Greg Freeman. Here’s an excerpt of his bio from Chalone’swebsite:
“…Freeman’s official wine career began with the opportunity from Hahn to improve the winery’s lab capabilities in 2003. Greg quickly progressed to Winemaker where he was involved with multiple brands, including: Hahn Winery, Hahn SLH, Lucienne, Smith & Hook, Boneshaker, Cycles Gladiator, Rex Goliath, and Huntington. Freeman credits his development as a winemaker to working closely with Nicholas Hahn and Paul Clifton, Director of Winemaking at Hahn.
“Since 2017, Greg has held positions as Winemaker for Georis/Cowgirl Winery in Carmel Valley, California and Messina Hof Winery in Bryan, Texas. He joined Chalone Vineyard in 2021, bringing two decades of Monterey winemaking to bear as he writes the latest chapter in the winery’s storied history…”
AND, SO, HOW WAS THE TASTING?
The Chalone team put together a special tasting for us and honored our industry status – thank you so much! We had a surprising 30 members and friends show up for this event and were grateful the space could accommodate us. After most people arrived, Brian gave us an engaging history of the vineyard and winery, up through the Judgement of Paris – and then to the present, with winemaker Greg Freeman. Everyone seems to enjoy the event and the wines, with a deep gratitude for the tasting room staff.
THE WINES
I have 6 Chalone Vineyard wines to present to you today. Winery notes come from their newsletters or other websites as noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. As a rule, I do not correct any winery website typos! My good friend Erin of tèr·ra·ve·nos assisted me with some of the details in my reviews. Check out her website!
2021 Chalone Vineyard Estate Rosé of Grenache, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, $38 (#1258)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Garnet-colored, the 2021 Rosé opens with strawberry and cherry aromas. On the palate, the bright red fruit flavors continue, joined by tender vanilla from barrel aging.”
My Review: Really colorful in the glass. Vibrant medium pink and red in color due to longer time on the skins. Perfume and strawberry on the nose. Packed with strawberry and watermelon flavors with a hint of banana. March 2024
Winery Notes: “The Chalone 2021 Chardonnay Musqué is expressive and bright. Fruit-forward aromas of Meyer lemons, white peaches, and nectarines are accompanied by floral notes and a touch of wet stone. On the palate, mouthwatering acidity and a lingering minerality provide a vibrant and satisfying finish.”
My Review: Grilled pineapple on the nose. Shockingly flavorful on the palate. Bright flavors of pineapple and tropical notes. Over the top and a bit sweet. March 2024
Winery Notes: “Our golden-hued 2020 Chardonnay opens with lemon curd and mandarin orange with hints of toasted brioche. These characters carry through to the honeyed, full mid-palate where classic Chalone wet rock minerality provides a lifted, elegant finish.” 92 points, Wine Enthusiast
My Review (tèr·ra·ve·nos powered): Ripe yellow peach, honey, pineapple, golden pear and lemon curd, with a touch of white flower, on the nose. Lean on the palate with muted tropical and white peach flavors, some perfume with a bitter finish. March 2024
Winery Notes: “The Chalone 2019 Grenache exhibits intriguing characters of red plum, smoky oak, tart blackberry, and balanced minerality. The palate possesses robust, yet silky tannins that deliver a luscious and lingering finish.”
My Review (tèr·ra·ve·nos powered): Translucent ruby in the glass. Sassafras on the nose. Intense cherry on the palate like a jolly rancher. Good acid on the front of the mouth but it falls away on the sides. March 2024
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Reserve embodies everything you’d desire from a Pinot Noir. Vibrant cherry and raspberry, forest floor and truffle greet the nose. On the palate, plum and spice with chalky minerality are framed by a viscous, luxurious mouthfeel and velveteen tannins.”
My Review: Warm nose of baking spices and earth. A very nice palate with rich flavors and a subtle cherry finish. Everyone seemed to like this wine. My favorite of the evening. March 2024
2019 Chalone Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, $70 (#1263)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Syrah displays a dark inky to purple hue in the glass and reveals captivating aromas of blackberry, plum and white pepper. Notes of black cherry and peppery spice mingle seamlessly on the mid-palate with chewy tannins and vibrant acidity.”
My Review (tèr·ra·ve·nos powered): Dried fig, black olive and leather on the nose. Cooked fruit on the palate. Good acid. I can’t recall if this bottled was opened freshly. If not, I’d like to try it again. In the past I have enjoyed this wine. March 2024
THE NEW CHALONE TASTING ROOM
“Our new Chalone Vineyard Tasting Room doors are open at the enchanting Carmel Plaza, where Ocean Avenue meets Mission Street. In the heart of Carmel, we’re poised to share the extraordinary estate wines from our iconic Chalone Vineyard, a true gem and Monterey County’s oldest-producing vineyard.”
Their beautiful tasting room is located on the lower level of Carmel Plaza at Ocean and Mission – where Hahn’s tasting room previously was.
I Brand & Family had a low key Autumn Release in November with pickups in the tasting room and not at a party at the winery. Ian explained why: harvest and crush were very late this year due to the cool spring and long growing/ripening season. Instead, he hosted a member holiday party in December, where we were able to taste verticals of their Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre wines. What a treat! There was also great music by El Pecado de Juana, delicious tamales Oaxaquenos by Pedro Martinez & Family and a vegan pozole by Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Cultura.
I decided to enjoy that party and not try to take notes, as we sorted out which, if any, wines we would take home – one of each variety the 2013 La Marea Grenache, the 2017 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, and the 2018 P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon – one of the last with the old label!
I have 7 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.These wines were all from that low key Autumn 2023 Release. As typical with Ian’s wines, they span a number of our local AVAs across 3 counties! Winery notes come from the winery’s tech sheets (thank you, Will!). Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2022 La Marea Alt-Cut’ Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $30 (#1222)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”
My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Honeysuckle on the nose. Bright acidity on the palate – a very tasty wine. November 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#1223)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This wine is bursting with bright honeydew melon and white pepper on the initial nose, evolving into savory notes of saffron and tarragon. The attack on the palate is full of juicy fruit with a prevalent creamy salinity on the back reminiscent of Salazar oysters. Soft acid builds on the front and provides a distinct glycerin mouthfeel that lingers into more of a hum of soft acidity that permeates the palate.”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Honey on the nose. Baking spices and honey on the palate. Fairly sweet. November 2023.
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Location: DeRose is a 25-year-old own rooted planting of Cabernet Franc. The DeRose Vineyard is part of the old Vaché planting and is the oldest continuously producing commercial vineyard in California. It was subsequently owned by William Palmtag and Almaden Winery, at which time it housed the largest barrel storage room in the world. Soils are a mix of lime and granite. The hill above the Cabernet Franc block is occupied by a lime mine…
“Tasting Notes: The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”
My Review: Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and black pepper on the palate. Delightful. November 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon on the nose. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with a slightly tannic finish. This will age into a nice wine. November 2023.
2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon and plum on the nose. Cherry on the palate. Tart palate with a touch of central coast funk. November 2023.
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.9% ABV, $85 (#1227)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite, and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Almost purple in the glass. Black berries on the nose. Delicious berries on the palate. Smooth on the palate. Nice tannins. Maybe a touch vegetal on the finish. Buy this wine – it has great potential. November 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#1228)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Rich dark berries on the nose with a touch of smoke or dirt – in a good way. Very dark palate. IMHO, this is his best Syrah to date – I took one home. November 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Since the I Brand & FamilyAutumn 2023 Releases have recently become available, there is no time better than now to issue this quick catch-up post. I’ve been collecting these reviews of I Brand & Family wines we have enjoyed at home over this past year. If only I had created Catch-Up Mondays earlier in the year!
I have 5 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family and P’tit Paysan.These wines were all from our home cellar and were tasted throughout 2023. 3 of these are new writeups, plus a couple we’ve had before. The wines in today’s post span a number of our local AVAs across 2 counties. This demonstrates great breadth in their continual efforts to uncover and highlight the region’s best grapes. Winery notes come from their newsletters or websites as noted. However, I seem to have a gap in my collection of tasting notes. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2020 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $30 (#1211)
Winemaker’s Notes: N/A
My Review: Beautiful golden in the glass. Honeydew and pear on the nose. Full palate of round honeydew notes on the mid palate surrounded by a slightly bitter lemon twist. Robust yet delicate. I liked this wine. July 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, (#1212)
Winemaker’s Notes found on K&L Wine Merchants: “When Honoré Escolle purchased a summer property for his family in 1878, he established one of the most desirable benches in Monterey County. Over 130 years later, three agricultural families developed the land with the intention of carrying on the propertie’s rich tradition through quality driven vinicultural practices. The Caraccioli, Nunes and Hibino families focus on delivering a distinctive expression of northern Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.”
My Review: Beautiful dusty golden in the glass. Tropical notes of white peach, lychee and pineapple on the nose. Balanced acidity and a palate of juicy, tropical flavors. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve had lately. I can always count on Ian’s Escolle Chardonnay to be nothing short of exceptional. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, $30 (#741)
Winemaker’s Notes: N/A
My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022 Lovely light orange in the glass like an orange lollipop. Nose of citrus blossom and yellow peach. Balanced acidity with peach, melon and tart notes amplified by a lingering finish. Lovely wine for a nice May afternoon patio tasting. May 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Old Vine Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, $43 (#1213)
Winemaker’s Notes from www.wine.com: “Planted in the late 1800’s this fruit is among some of the best Mouvedre plantings on the continent. This wine tantalizes the palate. Dark brambly fruits and rose petals open the nose. Black pepper and lush fruits balance subtle savory notes. Zesty tannins and light acidity on the finish.”
My Review: Pale purple in color. Plum, blackberry and eucalyptus on the nose. Thin cherry mid-palate, followed by a robust punch of tannic and slightly acidic flavors of cherry, blackberry, tobacco and pencil lead on the finish. April 2023
2014 P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#788)
Wine Enthusiast – 89 points: “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins. ” — Matt Kettmann June 2018
My Review: Inky purple in the glass. Red raspberry, plum and a touch of brown sugar on the nose. Cassis and dark berries on the palate. A slight tartness balances the jamminess of the fruit. We like this wine. July 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!
THE STORY
We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June. He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately. Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer! Lesson learned: pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!
Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.
If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.
The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic.
Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations. Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time. I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.
Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year.
David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up. He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021. And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!
Sangiovese
After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room. Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed. It would encompass the Folktale property. It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.
Our mutual assessment: We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years. They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.
“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.
“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”
“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”
THE WINES
I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale, Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story: Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!
Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.
Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!
Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023
2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)
Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby. Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023
NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)
I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made. Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it: You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses. You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.
I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:
“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”
Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.
Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity. August 2023
Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.
Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.
2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023
2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann
Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023
2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)
2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines. The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023
The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
Today marks the third anniversary of Decanting Monterey, A Central Coast Wine Blog! And what a year it has been! With 291 wines presented and reaching over 10,000 views, we have a lot to celebrate. Please read to the end for today’s small ask.
OUR HISTORY
Deep in the unvaccinated period of the pandemic in July 2020, Decanting Monterey was founded on wines from our own collection sampled at home, with or without our neighboring friends and our daughters, who quickly became known as the COVID Wine Pod. It was 2 posts per week and, mostly, one wine at a time. Back then, some wineries had just reopened with their COVID procedures and we still weren’t venturing out much. I also established the @decantingmonterey Facebook page.
During Year 2, as we became fully vaccinated and boosted – and double boosted, we were able to get out to more local wineries at a more deliberate pace. And the COVID Wine Pod was renamed the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod! I also moved to a single post per week and presented a single wine class to my old DC wine group. Most of the posts were based on event-driven or winery tastings and fewer individual, cellar-driven posts. And I started the @decanting_monterey Instagram feed.
During Year 3, I began to get recognition as an entity with some stature behind it:
I have some high-level stats to share with you about Year Three of Decanting Monterey!
www.decantingmonterey.com hit the 10,000 “views” mark! This statistic is very important to me. If you are seeing my blog on social media or via email, please be sure to click the link and open it!
291 wines were presented on Decanting Monterey for the first time.
207 red wines were presented, as well as 62 whites, 20 rosés, and a couple of oranges – including 6 sparkling and 2 fortified wines.
Over 39 distinct varietals were presented with Pinot Noir topping the list thanks to the SLH festival I attended, followed closeky by Red Blends, and Syrah – no surprise if you know me!
Wines from 12 California counties are represented, with 181 from Monterey, 30 from Santa Barbara, 20 from San Benito, 15 from Santa Cruz, 11 from San Luis Obispo, 9 from San Benito – and more! Plus 12 wines from Italy!
Wines from 6 of the 9 Monterey American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) were covered, capturing 39 varietals!
I Brand was the most represented family of wines, followed by Parsonage. I attribute that to the steady and wonderful release events offered by I Brand & Family wines. Parsonage was one of the first local wineries to put Monterey wines squarely on our consumption radar way back when. Their wines match my palate perfectly – what else can I say?
While I have some posts already queued up for Year 3, let me ask my mighty readers: Where should I visit next? Please leave me a comment on this post and let me know what some of your favorite, local places are to wine taste that I should not miss in Year 3! I have a list of not-yet-covered wine tasting rooms and other wine venues to check out – happy to add to it. I don’t know what I don’t know.
SUBSCRIBE
And, if you have not signed up for my free, weekly blog email, I encourage you to do so – the subscription button is on the right-hand side of each page of the Decanting Monterey website. I judge how well I am doing by how many views, subscribers, and comments I receive. Please help me spread the word and please feel free to comment on my posts! And follow my Facebook (@decantingmonterey) and Instagram (@decanting_monterey) sites.
OUR SUPPORTERS
I am grateful to Chesebro, Bernardus, Bunter Spring, Idle Hour, Pierce Ranch and Rombi for their generosity this year in donated wines or discounts. Grateful to Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for their support – what a great resource! And to Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nosfor her partnership and advice as we navigate this world of wine. I remain grateful to those vintners who have comped me wine tastings, given me discounts, and especially those who have comped me bottles of wine! And, of course, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod!
DONATE
Now, to my ask:
As my avid readers know, Decanting Montereyis a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines. The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners. While I do this, I protect your data from being sold or used by anyone other than for my own website statistics. Here is my Privacy Policy.
As I come up on my 3-year renewal of my website, I am asking my readers to consider making a small donation to keep this effort going. I donate my time, energy, knowledge, and to date personally have funded this website and my wine education travel expenses.
Here is what it takes to make Decanting Monterey run:
$1200-2400/year in travel expenses (airfare, car rental only)
While this blog is open and free, donations to this not-for-profit effort are always welcomein any amount! You can donate here: Donate to Decanting Monterey. All donations go toward the operation of this website and to offset travel expenses for out of area wine classes. Even the smallest amount would be greatly appreciated.
So, here we go – Year 4! This should be an even better one! Thanks for your support to me on this crazy journey.
The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us. There is always something surprising to taste. And the most recent one in March was no exception. It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting. In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality. Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.
I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely. Then comes the great part: deciding which wines we will take home!
I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)
Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program. We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023
2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.
“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”
My Review: Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.
“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”
My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.
“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”
My Review: 112-year-old vines! Garnet in color. Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”
“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”
My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.
“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice. A bright palate with cranberry notes. It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.
“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events. This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco. That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases. While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.
I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines. There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!
I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)
Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.
“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.
“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020
Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot
Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.
“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.
“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”
My Review: Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose. Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red. September 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)
Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard: Super bright. Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley. Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.
“Tasting Notes: Amazingly balanced! Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple. Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”
My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022
2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip.
“Tasting Notes: Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”
My Review: Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass. Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022
2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.
“Tasting Notes: The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose. A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty. As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900)
Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.
“Tasting Notes: Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf. The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon. This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes. Good structure. A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)
My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.
Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I tell you, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod is on it! While we were completing a wine tour of Portugal and Spain, the home team was on alert for Central Coast wine activities. We got a text the day we were flying home about the 29th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. Were we planning to attend? The answer was yes! We last attended this event in 2018 and thought it was good but crowded. My assessment of this year’s event is that it was terrific!
This event, sponsored by the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, was advertised as an opportunity to “Enjoy the incredible wines and culinary abundance from one of the world’s premier wine regions in the quaint village of Carmel-by-the-Sea.” It was incredibly well organized (way to go, Kim Stemler!). Located in Devendorf Park instead of the streets of Carmel-By-The-Sea, this event seemed a bit more private, out of the hustle and bustle of the village. The entry was very efficient. Daunted by a huge entry line, we were instantly relieved to see tickets were being checked and wristbands allocated before the gates even opened. With the food moved to the exterior streets, attendees could move easily among the winery booths and step out for food.
The wineries were mostly familiar to me, with a few exceptions. Most I have been to and are captured somewhere in Decanting Monterey. That was a good thing, as we could pick and choose which one or two wines we wanted to taste at each. And some of the winemakers were there – either in force or for part of the event, including Sabrine Rodems, Keith and Tim Prader of Shale Canyon, Ian Brand, Kori Violini and the Rexford family. It meant so much to the attendees to be able to connect with these winemakers directly. And I was so happy to see Rexford there – I have missed their tasting room in the village and hope to get up to their winery soon.
We also enjoyed talking to The Wine Experience and mixing our own red blends (mine was rather vegetal – too much Cabernet Franc!). We will definitely need to pay a visit and do this the proper way next time – taste each wine, then blend, silly Sharon.
Our only regret is that we did not purchase the VIP ticket for this event, as we are reserve wine kind of people. That said, we tasted both familiar and new-to-us wines. I’ll highlight a few memorable ones here. I made the decision up front not to try to capture tasting notes, but to be in the moment, enjoying the event. And I can’t wait for next year’s event!
2015 Pessagno Tre Red Wine Blend, Pedregal de Paicines Vineyard, Paicines AVA, 14.12%, $42 (675*) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec, 20% Petite Sirah
About Pessagno: “Pessagno Winery fulfills a twenty-year dream to produce limited quantities of exclusive luxury wines from prestigious single vineyards throughout Monterey and San Benito Counties. The winery is known for creating wines of distinct character and elegance. It is widely recognized as one of California’s finest wine sources.”
Winery Notes: “The 2015 Tre offers bold aromas of dark fruits, spice, oak, and tobacco. The palate is treated to a rich feel, deep dark fruit flavors, oak and tobacco, with a velvety caramel finish.”
My Notes: I was really surprised by this beautiful blend. It was perhaps the wine most aligned to my palate that we tasted that day – big, smooth, bold. It was among the first and last wines we visited during the tasting. I will need to visit Pessagno for a complete tasting soon. Check out their website for upcoming events at the winery – and at the vineyard in Paicines, an AVA in San Benito County of which I am very fond!
About Chalone Vineyard: “Monterey’s first winery, Chalone Vineyard is nestled amongst the Pinnacle mountains in Monterey. High atop the Gavilan plateau, the ocean breezes sweep across the remarkable terroir of the Chalone vineyard with its volcanic limestone soils that give our wines their distinctive flavor.”
Winery Notes: “Bold and complex – just as you’d want a Syrah to be. Leather, cinnamon, tobacco leaf and dark fruits offer layers of intrigue for the senses.”
My Notes: I do love my Central Coast Syrahs and this was no exception! Smooth with the dark berry and earthiness you’d expect from a Syrah. About time we get over to Chalone to do a wine tasting, as well!
Winery Notes: “Bernardus has been producing a small bottling of Rosé from our local vineyards for many years. Now we are thrilled to announce the release of our first Rosé from the Provence region of France! To that end, we have partnered with a prestigious French winery: La Coste. Bernardus is very proud to present a wine based on multi-national tasting trials: Bernardus French Rosé!
“Flavors are full and rich, redolent with light red fruits on a long smooth finish. An exceptional Rosé we know everyone will enjoy!”
My Notes: We wished the Provence Rosé member of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod had been with us to taste this delicious new French rose from Bernardus. I think it will be a hit! Pretty pale pink in the glass. Perfume on the nose. Light on the palate with a touch of sweetness on the finish.
2018 Pierce Ranch Olonde, San Antonio Valley, $32 (678*) 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 59% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec
Winery Notes: Bordeaux style blend composed of Cab. Sauv., Petit Verdot, and Malbec.
My Notes: We were all impressed by this wine, one that we did not get to taste during our March visit to their tasting room. They informed me they have some other new releases coming out in the next few weeks, so another visit soon??
2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley, $65 (679*)
Winery Notes: “Now on sale! $60 a bottle (normally $65) for a limited time only. Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest. With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.
“Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera” 462 cases.
My Notes: This was a terrific Barbera with delicious berry, raspberry flavors.
2018 Silvestri Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley, $48 (680*)
Winery Notes: “Moving to a warmer section of the vineyard is our Syrah. After harvest our Syrah is de-stemmed and placed into ¾ open top fermenters. Here, whole berry fermentation takes place to maximize the extraction of flavor and color. The juice is then racked to French oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation is initiated and will take place for about a month. We then rack the wine after 6 months, and age for another 12-18 months before bottling.
“Syrah fans everywhere. Our Syrah continues to please year after year. Savor the aromas of blackberry and dried plum while enjoying the mouth-watering flavors, velvety texture along with medium tannins. Complement with sausage pizza, grilled veggies or grilled meat.” 123 cases
My Notes: This is my kind of Syrah – big, smooth, juicy with delicious dark berry and plum flavors, without the earthiness that, for me, can be a distraction.
Winery Notes: “We craft this richly textured Cabernet Sauvignon with California grapes picked at the peak of ripeness in our coastal vineyards. Adding a twist to traditional barrel-aging, select lots of the blend are aged in a mix of new and used bourbon barrels. The new barrels give the wine its deep undertones of toasted oak. The used barrels—selected from a renowned Kentucky distillery—exude notes of vanilla and dried herbs, hinting at the fine bourbon that once graced these casks. The result is a bold, flavorful wine, unlike any other Cabernet.
“Layered and complex, our Bourbon Barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon leaps from the glass with aromas of blackberry cobbler, graham cracker, brown sugar, milk chocolate, coffee and smoke. A palate of blueberry pie, praline, sweet vanilla custard, caramel and mocha is framed by soft, chewy tannins and a hint of toasted oak on the lingering finish.”
My Notes: This was kind of fun – they brought both the Bourbon Barrel-aged and Rye Barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignons for a compare and contrast. I say Bourbon Barrel hands down! As an affordable, everyday Cabernet Sauvignon, this is kind of a fun one.
2020 Scratch Brut Rose, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, $49 (682*)
Winery Notes: “The touch of 828 Clone Pinot Noir to the Clone 96 Chardonnay base synergistically add a juiciness to the mid-palate that makes you want to take another sip! Clone 96 Chardonnay has a round honey-dew melon mouth feel and with the addition of pinot makes you think you are biting into a fresh Fuji apple. This sparkling wine is make using the classic Methode Champenoise, fermented in the bottle.”
My Notes: Wow! Winemaker Sabrine Rodems was here! It was so great to meet her in person. We have enjoyed her wines from Wrath, Scratch, and Kori Wines! And I love a great sparkling rose! Another place to wine taste soon, as all I have tried are her sparkling wines.
Winery Notes: “The 2019 ZSM is a blend of Estate Zinfandel – 48%, Arroyo Seco Syrah – 32% and Estate Mourvèdre – 20%. On the nose you will get bright berry fruit with a touch of violet on the bouquet. The middle is full of dark fruit, predominately blueberry, followed by raspberry and huckleberry. On the finish you will get a touch of smokiness from the newer oak barrels, firm tannins and a touch of vanilla. This full bodied wine is still young only having been bottled in the first week of July 2021, but it is drinking exceptionally well already.”
My Notes: This is a brand-new release which will soon be on their website and available in their tasting room! It was our pleasure to taste this big red – another wine right up my alley.
2019 Folktale Le Mistral Joseph’s Blend, Monterey County, $50 (#684)
About Folktale Winery: “In 2015, a band of artists, craftspeople, and lovers of life brought their wandering imaginations and lofty aspirations to a magical piece of land in Carmel, California. Out in the sunny valley, we cultivated grapevines and gardens to craft beautiful wines and experiences to delight the senses. We named this place Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
“Folktale was inspired by the idea that in every great bottle of wine, there is a story. It is filled with uniqueness of place, a year of sun and rain, and the art and craft of winemaking. The story is about our people, our guests, and our passion. This is a love story, and the best love stories never end.”
Winery Notes: “Grapes for this vintage of Joseph’s Blend were hand-harvested from 5 different vineyards in our region. Each lot fermented in small batches and was gently pressed and racked to French oak barrels to age. After 6 months, all lots were tasted and a final blend was created. The wine spent another year in barrel before being bottled in Aug, 2021. In this year’s blend, Grenache came from Ventana and Mission Ranch Vineyards (Arroyo Seco AVA), Syrah from Cedar Lane Vineyard (Arroyo Seco AVA) and Tondre Grapefield (Santa Lucia Highlands AVA), and Mourvedre from Sandy Lane Vineyard (Contra Costa County).”
My Notes: OK, it was a little strange that Folktale was the only winery out in the food area. I wished I had found them earlier and had had the capacity to give their wines a thorough tasting. I am looking forward to seeing where their wines are going. This GSM was a fine wine, worthy of a retaste. I admit I have shied away from Folktale as it is more of a food with wine pairings place, but maybe that isn’t a bad thing to try. The Le Mistral tasting looks great to me.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Now that things are opening up, it is time to go exploring – discover some newer wineries I haven’t tried before. On a chilly Memorial Day Sunday on the coast, I went for warmth and wine, finding both in Carmel Valley Village.
Back when I first started Decanting Monterey, I had driven out to the valley to take pictures and noted a new tasting room. I had never heard of Seabold and put it on my list to come back and try. One pandemic later, it was time! Seabold’s location makes it a visible stop for wine connoisseurs and tourists alike. I received first class treatment from Katianna. She brought me the wines individually so I could learn about each one. The quotes below come from the Seabold web page or from their tasting sheet.
About Seabold: “Seabold Cellars was established in the Monterey Bay region because we believe that cool-climate organic and sustainable vineyards produce balanced wines that showcase their origin more than their winemaking. During the year, more time is spent in vineyards than the winery. Our winemaking is as hands-off as possible, respecting traditional techniques and practices without being beholden to them. We produce non-interventionist, site-specific Burgundy and Rhône varieties, as seen through a California lens.” They source their grapes from throughout the Central Coast – from Prunedale to Paso Robles and make their wines in nearby Marina!
“Seabold Cellars focuses on vineyards in the Monterey Bay area. This region has immense potential owing to geographic, geological, and climatic factors. Less than 100 yards offshore, the Blue Grand Canyon – at 60 miles long and 2 miles deep – is one of the world’s largest and deepest marine trenches. Its 300 cubic miles of frigid waters fuel the cold Salinas wind that moderates temperatures throughout all of Monterey County. As the wind funnels through the Gabilan and Santa Lucia Ranges, it creates a Thermal Rainbow – a large scale temperature gradation drawn through the length of the Salinas Valley.”
I will be presenting Seabold’s wines in 2 separate posts: Seabold Cellars and BOLD Wine Co. Seabold Cellars wines are single vineyard and BOLD are wines Chris Miller, the proprietor and winemaker, gets to experiment and have fun with. Today’s post is about Seabold Cellars’ wines!
Winery notes: “Established in the 1970s, this was the personal home and vineyard for legendary pioneer Dick Graff during his winemaking tenure at Chalone…Blanched almond, dried lemon peel, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. A broad, rich, glycerol mouthfeel with surprisingly fresh acidity.”
WINE ENTHUSIAST – 93 points, Editor’s Choice: “It’s always a joy to taste the old vines of Chalone, and this bottling captures their unique qualities, starting with aromas of apple syrup, hazelnut and toasted pecan. The palate offers almond, Meyer lemon and a creamy oak flavor that lingers on the tongue for a long time—all very unique elements.” MATT KETTMANN https://www.winemag.com/buying-guide/seabold-cellars-2018-rodnick-farm-old-vines-pinot-blanc-chalone/
My Review: Golden in the glass. A little musty parmesan and bitter citrus rind on the nose. Round, bold flavors on the palate with lemon/citrus peel. Very flavorful, powerful on the palate, with a lingering finish. I would have guessed a higher % ABV for the flavor. This was my favorite, most notable, of the wines I tasted today. May 2021
Vineyard notes: “Steve McIntyre – one of the most knowledgeable and experienced winegrowers in California – farms this plot of land. Increasingly we find ourselves impressed with the quality of aromatic white varieties from Arroyo Seco, and this site has shown immense promise very early on for us…”
My Review: Straw in the glass with a faint nose of tropical fruits. Delicious tropical fruits carrying through the palate. Smooth, refreshing and light – perfect for a hot, sunny day in Carmel Valley! May 2021
Seabold’s tasting room proudly displays the rocks that distinguish our Central Coast vineyards.
Vineyard Notes: “The Olsons have been the owners and caretakers since 1882, and have always farmed the entire property organically. The vineyard, dramatically towering above Highway 101, is composed of weathered sandstone with some clay atop iron pan subsoils. One of the coldest vineyards in all of California, it is only 5 unobstructed miles from the Monterey Bay’s icy waters.”
Tasting Sheet Notes: “Cured lemon peels, sea spray, clover honey, tart nectarines, fresh apricot, “crunchy” acid profile, fresh heavy cream.” Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak.
My Review: Bouquet of earth and grass. Bright acidity on the palate – brimming with citrus flavors of lemon lime. I learned they like to make their wines on the acidic side – this one is a bit too acidic for me! May 2021
Vineyard Notes: “Pelio is located in a wind-beaten, high-elevation, undulating series of hills 8 miles from the coast. The vineyard sits mid-slope, facing the Pacific Ocean, with an average elevation of 1000’. The temperature rarely rises above the 70s, with very cold diurnal shifts…” Located off the Laureles grade, they only grow Chardonnay & Pinot Noir.
Winery Tasting Notes: “Fresh pomegranate, cranberry, pluot, green tea, grey salt, black raspberry, rose, lavender, white mushroom, roasted thyme, nutmeg.”
My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Lovely bouquet of berry jam and black tea. Round, jammy fruit with notes of cranberry layered with blackberry and tea. I liked this wine. May 2021
The Seabold tasting room is prominently located at the beginning of Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village
You can buy Seabold wines online or at their tasting room, 3 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village. They are open Thursday-Sunday, 12-5 p.m. and by appointment (831-288-2730).
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
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