Tagged: I Brand & Family

I Brand & Family’s Spring 2023 Release: Some Very Special Surprises!  

The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us.  There is always something surprising to taste.  And the most recent one in March was no exception.  It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting.  In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality.  Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.

I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely.  Then comes the great part:  deciding which wines we will take home!

I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)

Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program.  We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.

“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”

My Review:  Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache  

Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.

“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass.  A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”

My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.

“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”

My Review:  112-year-old vines! Garnet in color.  Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the  darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”

“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.

“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice.  A bright palate with cranberry notes.  It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.

“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Battle of the Carmel Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons!

As we were driving out to Carmel Valley to select wines for the Carmel Rotary event in February, we hatched this idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to host a blind tasting of Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons?  We ran the idea by one of our tasting room favorites, Summer Emmons, at Parsonage. She thought that sounded wonderful and started rattling off wineries which should be included – they were the same ones we had discussed in the car!

When we got home, Mr. H searched our collection to see if he could find wines from a single vintage. The oldest vintage we could find for all those wineries was 2015. And we did call around to try to add some other Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to the mix – but couldn’t get our hands on them.

This was a particularly good, albeit low yield vintage for Carmel Valley wines. As Sal Rombi of Rombi Wines explained to me long ago: Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season.  Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious vintage. 

The hard part of arranging this event was finding a date that would work for everyone we wanted in the room. In the end, we pushed it out to March – and even then, lost a couple of participants. But it was the right group for the experience. In the room was the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod, Summer Emmons of Parsonage, and Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos.

There was much anticipation and preparation for this event. The hardest part was the wine glasses:  first, finding 7 sets of glasses in which all 4 glasses were the same, and then getting all the spots off the glasses.  The amount of glassware reminded me of the time we tested Parsonage’s COVID wine tasting procedures – it was a lot of glassware, prompting them to change their plan.

The wines were all decanted at the same time. Not all our decanters were the same shape, but it was the closest we could come. And the wines were carefully pre-poured by Mr. H, a 2-ounce our of each of the 4 wines for each participant. Only he knew which wine was which and the order was mostly random. And only he and I knew exactly which wines were included in the mix, including the fact that one was a red blend. We also carefully planned the food pairings, with salami, cheeses, and a bit of dark chocolate to match the Cabernet Sauvignons.

Then the fun began. We used the tèr·ra·ve·nos tasting sheet to rate the wines. In general, we looked at and smelled each wine before we tasted them. We analyzed the flavors of each wine one-by-one. Since we didn’t know which was which, we could be bluntly honest about each one. With such a range of palates, we heard many descriptors…memorable ones…and we agreed that one of the wines – what we learned later was the red blend – tasted vastly different from the others. We did do an informal ordering of our preferences, with Wine #4 slightly edging out these other fine wines. This was a super fun format and we will do this again. Why not try this with your friends?

We started our evening with antipasto and 2 local whites:  2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White and 2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc. Here are winery notes on these two wines and links to my prior postings about these wines:

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White (#742): “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.” This was a very light white with interesting flavors, which evoked a conversation amongst us about the varietals we don’t know.

2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc (#604): “The Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc showcases bright, vibrant aromas of tropical fruit. Guava and grapefruit compliment hints of freshly cut hay and wet stone. Finishes with a racing acidity.” This is one of our collective favorite local Sauvignon Blanc wines.

Today I am presenting the 4 Carmel Valley wines in the order we tasted. 3 have been presented here before, and 1 is new (you can tell by their numbers). As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner. My tasting notes this time are an amalgamation of what I heard during the tasting. Are you ready for the big reveal?

2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#57)

Our Review: Deep garnet in color. Spice, tobacco, black licorice and leather on the nose. Cinnamon, dark fruit, black cherry, black licorice, tobacco and a touch of smoke and leather on the tongue-coating, smooth palate with a woody, dry finish. Chewy tannins. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#889) 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 23% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah

Winery Tasting Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!

Our Review: Lighter garnet than the previous wine, perhaps a touch cloudy. Aromas of intense dark raspberry (that delicious aroma of Cachagua fruit!) and prune; a spice like sandalwood, eucalyptus, or cigar box; and white pepper. Fruitier, packed with dark fruit and chocolate notes with a long finish. Smooth and tasty, less tannic than the previous wine.   March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate Grown, Saunders Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $80 (#239*)

Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points.  “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020

Our Review: Dark garnet with hints of brown in the glass. A pretty nose of brambleberry, cassis, slightly floral, bakery yeast and “a fat crème de violet.”  Fruity flavors of blueberry, intense cassis, and sour cherry, checked by earth and green notes. Slightly acidic and alcoholic attributes. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $90 (#953)

Winery Tasting Notes: “A beast of a cab, truly a bada$$. Think Jack Reacher from the books, not Tom Cruise in the movies. This brute has a deep, dark core of sophistication that reveals its identity with time. Black currants, huckleberry, and horehound licorice with great density on the palate and fully ripened tannins. My recommendation is to lay it down for a few years while it evolves into a peaceful warrior.”

Our Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries on the nose with floral and herbal hints combined with notes of smoke, wood and plastic. The palate says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” with beautiful, chalky, and smooth flavors of dark fruit, coffee, and smoke. The finish goes on forever. Perhaps our favorite amongst favorites. March 2023

I hope you enjoyed this post. Please give me feedback by leaving a comment!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand Fall 2022 Release Party: A Simplified Setup!

Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events.  This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco.  That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases.  While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.

I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines.  There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.

I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!

I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.

“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.

“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020

Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot

Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.

“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.

“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”

My Review:  Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose.  Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red.  September 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”

My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard:  Super bright.  Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley.  Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.

“Tasting Notes:  Amazingly balanced!  Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple.  Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”

My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022

2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip. 

“Tasting Notes:  Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”

My Review:  Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass.  Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022

2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.

“Tasting Notes:  The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence.   Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose.  A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty.  As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc.  A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.  

“Tasting Notes:  Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf.  The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon.  This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc.  November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.

“Tasting Notes:   The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs.  Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes.  Good structure.  A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)

My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon. 

“Tasting Notes:  The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin.  This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back.  Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

I Brand & Family Release Party: Great People, Diverse Wines, Tasty Food, & Eclectic Music – a Fun Time for All!

I was tipped off by our Wine Pod partners that I Brand was having a release party in late June – the first one since COVID made its unwelcome arrival in Monterey County.  We made a quick plan to carpool there.

We have been to several past release parties where members and fans get to sample newly-released good wine, paired appetizers, and great music.  In short, really fun.  There were a lot of wines to try on this Sunday – some on the release menu – plus a number of library wines hidden in between.  It was kind of overwhelming – in a good way!  I felt rushed at first – and then just slowed down and got in the groove. We enjoyed the sliders, the pizzas, and the gourmet popsicles!  And more wine.  I truly appreciated the library wines, as a great counterbalance to the new releases.  These wines demonstrated the staying power of Ian’s wines – and made the case for holding onto more of his wines – which are so tempting to consume right away. Thank you so much, Ian, Heather, and the rest of the I Brand Family, for making this event possible once again.

I have 14 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan – most tasted at the release party. I have presented the 2 Grenache wines before. And I added in a Syrah from our private collection. There was a lot going on at this event and we were moving a bit quickly, so I didn’t get the detailed tasting notes I might usually capture. I did go back to the tasting room in July to polish up a few of my notes – where I also got to taste the 2016 52-month Chardonnay – a bonus review for us at the very bottom of this post! Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2021 Piquette Nat, Arroyo Seco AVA, 7.4% AVA, $18 (#780)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A perfect summer sipper. Our Piquette Nat from California is Col Fondo process, an easy drinking blend of organic Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flowers.”

My Review: Made from Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flower, this looks like a Brut rose, smells like licorice, and, to me, tastes yeasty like a fruity beer. Very popular and different. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, San Benito County, $30 (#781)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Ranier cherries and lemon-thyme on the nose. Pink grapefruit and cara-cara orange lead the attack on the palate. Lingering tannin structure balanced with medium acidity and distinctive minerality contribute to a bright and festive Summer glass, perfectly suited for a wide array of food pairings.”

My Review:  An orange wine – the wax on the bottle is a huge hint!  Year over year, this is an excellent wine, light on the palate, crisp and tasty. We like this wine. June 2022

2021 La Marea Alternate Cut Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, $30 (#782)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Honeysuckle and citrus rind on the nose. Slightly funky palate of buttermilk and citrus rind, with a lingering creamy finish. The alternate cut makes for a heavier mouthfeel to this ever so slightly sweet Albariño.  June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan L’Apiculteur Cedar Lane Vineyard Viognier, Arroyo Seco AVA, $42 (#783)

Winemaker’s Notes from wine.com: “Late ripening Viognier from the alluvial benches above the Arroyo Seco River fermented in a combination of stainless steel, neutral barrels and twice used barrels. Soaring honeysuckle aromas, flavors of pear and crushed stones, partial malolactic fermentation for focus and composition.”

My Review: This “library” Viognier was a bonus wine – this is an excellent representation of Central Coast Viognier – honeysuckle yet lean. The age on this bottle made it more complex and interesting. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, Paicines, San Benito County, $30 (#784)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Jasmine flower and lilac on the nose. Dried apricot and quince lead the attack on the palate. Medium to full body finishes with notes of bergamot.” 133 cases produced

My Review:  Another atypical varietal that Ian likes to work with.  This is the second vintage of this wine that I have tried. This one is really special – a funky, earthy nose, followed by a light and tasty palate, especially after tasting the library Viognier. June 2022

2021 Le P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, 13.7% ABV, $24 (#785)

About LPP Sauvignon Blanc : “Paysan Sauvignon Blanc comes from Zabala Vineyard – located on a large holding on the Arroyo Seco floodplains that was part of land granted to the Zabala family before California’s statehood. It was first planted in the 1970s and has grown to encompass over 1000 acres. Zabala Vineyard is one of the rockiest vineyard I Brand works with, full of what is locally known as ‘Greenfield Potatoes’, which are the rather inedible round river stones that dominate the soil and have been collected into piles and walls at every property in the basin. This vineyard is located directly in the path of the daily Salinas Valley winds, which control sugar development and retain natural acidity. Certified organic grapes.”

Winemaker’s Notes: “The bouquet is an explosion of white peaches, gooseberries and perfumy passionfruit. This translates over to the palate with more gorgeous and concentrated white peach bursting to the front and evolving into hints of trailside strawberry. Bright acidity. Crisp, tart and refreshing. Lingering finish that has a subtle creaminess returning to tropical passionfruit.” 145 cases produced

My Review: The LPP Sauvignon Blanc comes from one of my favorite vineyards in Arroyo Seco. Very pale in the glass. Yummy butterscotch and tropical notes on the nose. A flavorful palate dominated by lime cloaked in honeysuckle, with a citrusy, buttery finish. Very balanced and tasty. June 2022

2019 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $20 (#786)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality. The wine is produced predominantly from a few vineyards at the base of Jack’s Hill, planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of the Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North.”

My Review: From our home collection. Pale golden in color. Tropical bouquet of pineapple and honeydew. Palate brimming with soft pineapple, with citrus notes. This is one of my favorite central coast everyday Chardonnays – def not buttery, oaky. June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.67% ABV, $36 (#787)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Smoked chestnuts leading into dark cherry-cola on the nose. Ripe red fruits abound in the form of Bing cherries and Santa Rosa plum. Light body with very mellow tannin structure and soft glycerin finish which lingers and fades into petrichor.” 62 cases produced

My Review: Translucent, dark ruby in the glass.  Dark cherry on the nose and very smooth and tasty dark cherry on the palate. I prefer this to the previous vintage! June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, San Antonio Valley, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#788)

89 points – Wine Enthusiast : “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins.” Matt Kettmann 6/2018

My Review: The grapes for this library wine come from Pierce Ranch – and this is a delicious wine.  Another reason to hold your I Brand wines. I would rate this higher than Wine Enthusiast did back in 2018. One of the wines I took home with me from this tasting! June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 12.4% ABV, $45 (#789)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Saddle leather, and ripe huckleberries on the nose. Wild blueberries lead the attack on the palate transitioning into gorgeous and concentrated red ddelicious apple notes contributing to a bright and lingering finish. Medium to light body with pronounced yet balanced tannins finishes with redwood duff.” 34 cases produced

My Review: OK, this was another favorite from the release party.  Light cherry and pepper notes on the nose, following through on the palate. Grapey, smooth and delicious.  One of the finest Mourvèdres I have ever had.  Took one home. June 2022

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#635)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromas of red fruit about in this ripe and silky grenache with flinty undertones. Bright acidity leads the way on the palate allowing the lovely, light red fruit shine in the form of overripe strawberries and loganberries. California anise, white pepper, and mild tannins finish neatly.” 440 cases produced

My Review:  With grapes from Monterey and Santa Clara, this one gets the Central Coast label.  A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with smooth cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021, June 2022

2014 La Marea Brosseau Vineyard Grenache, Chalone AVA, $68 (#636)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.” 124 cases produced

My Review:  Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish. These library wines show the staying power of Ian Brand’s wines – we loved them all. A hint to hold them a bit longer. December 2021, June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Escolle Vineyard Gamay Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#790)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Telicherry peppercorn and carraway seed lead the bouquet, evolving into spiced black plum notes. The peppery and spice plum carries over to the palate attack and the finish is short, but exquisitely spicy for a light to medium bodied and chillable red. Pronounced yet balanced tannins. Finishes with notes of California garrigue; think sagebrush, manzanita and mugwort.” 95 cases produced

My Review:  Oh, the Gamay Noir!  What a way to top off the afternoon! Ruby, almost purple in the glass. Very grapey nose. Grapey, smooth, jammy, good!  I took one of these wines home, too! The challenge will be to hold it and not just open it and drink it. June 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, $42 (#791)

Winemaker’s Notes: The Graff Family Vineyard “…is a small 3 acre vineyard planted in 1989 to Syrah, Mourvedre and Melon de Bourgogne. The site has depleted, granitic soils and, combined with the elevation and exposure, it’s a perfect situation for producing deep, funky, expressive American Syrah.” 39 cases produced

My Review:  From our private collection. Dark ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Red fruits on the palate. This isn’t a huge Syrah – a bit lighter and more elegant, refreshing and tasty. Very nice on day 2.  May 2022

2016 I Brand & Family 52-month Chardonnay, Monterey, 15% ABV (#792)

Winemaker’s Notes: 52-months in a steel tank. Aged in the bottle one year before release. “Delicate & oxidative aromas similar to a beautiful Fino sherry. Palate confirms aromatics.  Nutty entry, candied pineapple & ripe tangerines on initial & mid-palate. Finishes with warm marzipan, toasted cinnamon, anie & cloves. Searing acidity throughout.” 41 cases produced

My Review:  I am not sure I would have guessed this was a Chardonnay. Toasted pineapple notes on the nose and palate, but an almost fortified or Sauternes-like quality on the finish – butterscotch and pineapple.  July 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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A New Face in the I Brand Tasting Room!

Stop the presses!

I was on the road this spring quite a bit and did not make the tasting room rounds – until late in June, when we went on a tasting streak in a single long weekend!  While I was busy traveling, I sometimes sought the easy post to fulfill the weekly blog. And I have neglected some of the bigger tastings I did in the winter.  As I look back, I recall I did not post my February 2022 I Brand tasting because I had another catchup post in the works. I recently attended their first release party in a couple of years – and realized there were quite a few other wines I needed to write about first. So, I am halting the presses on my more recent flurry of tastings for this catch-up post!

I distinctly remember this tasting – when we met Will for the first time in the tasting room.  It was so nice to put a face with the new name and he warmly welcomed us. We tried to move quickly through the wines, as we were just in the neighborhood and had not planned a full tasting – we got one anyway!

I have 12 wines (zounds!) to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2016-2020. Most of these come from my February tasting, but others were from our private collection. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

While the wines speak for themselves, I’d like to include this quote from Ian’s Spring 2022 Winemaker Letter, which hit home why I remain a fan of Ian and his wines.  He talks about his “…fascination with old vineyards and more obscure varieties.” He goes on to say, “To appropriately shepherd the local winemaking industry into its best iteration, there needs to be a semi-cohesive idea of what a region is – there should be an expected balance and flavor profile shared in the wines from the region…As we are able to realize and share our ideas of our terroir, wines from the region will become more valuable, which leads to more value in our community.” You can red more about Ian and Heather Brand and their wines here: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/.

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 12.2% ABV, $30 (#741)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A fresh and delicious ‘orange wine’ from mature, terraced Pinot Gris grapes on the oldest, continually producing commercial vineyard in California.”

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $36 (#742)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.”

My Review:  Straw in the glass and sweet muscat and honeysuckle on the nose.  The palate was not as sweet as the nose predicted, with decent tartness with a light, slightly sweet finish.  Quite refreshing – I kind of liked it! February 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#743)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A pure, fresh, minerality driven, Chablis like Chardonnay blend from Jacks Hill on the Central Coast…Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA…planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North. Bright, crisp and clean with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality.”

92 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.” *Editors’ Choice* Matt Kettmann (2/2019)

My Review: Pale yellow in color.  Honeydew melon on the nose.  Honey and gardenia on the palate, with lime notes on the finish.  April 2022.

2018 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 13% ABV, $22 (#744)

90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Tight and brisk aromas of lemon peel and sandstone come through on the nose of this always fairly priced bottling. It’s soft on the palate in texture, but a wet stone minerality and lemon juice acidity provide tension, with dried pear and orange peel flavors showing as well.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: A touch leaner than previous vintages with a little acidity on the finish. February 2022

2019 La Marea and 2017 Besson Old Vines Grenache – Side by Side!

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#745)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fresh, medium bodied Grenache from three rocky vineyards averaging over 50 years of age.”

My Review:  A muddy ruby, richer in color than othis other Grenaches – almost purple.  Good cherry fruits on the palate. February 2022

2017 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, $42 (#746)

94 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Sage-oil, tea-leaf and geranium notes meet with dried strawberry and rose petal on the spicy, earthy nose of this bottling. The palate is a mix of dried flowers and rocky minerality, with flavors of gravel, dried currant and more tea leaf making for a fascinating sip of century- old vines.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: Light, translucent ruby in color, but richer, more tannic flavors.February 2022

2016 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, 14% ABV, $42 (#747)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Dark, translucent ruby in color. Dark berries and smooth tannins on the palate.  IMHO, one of his best Grenache wines. March 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone AVA, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#748) 72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Mandarin orange and cherry notes on the nose.  Palate had more heft, complexity than usual.  Hands down one of our favorite of his Grenache-Syrah blends.  May 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#749)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc…Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components, envelope the nose. On the palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.” 109 cases produced.

My Review: Lean, a bit austere with musty flavors. February 2022 February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV, $30 (#750)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Reminiscent of old world wine making Bayly Ranch is an etherial expression of Cabernet Franc. Notes of bright berries and mild spices…”

My Review:  Richer, rounder, chewier that the Bates, with cherry and dark berry flavors. Black pepper on the finish. I prefer this wine; my partner prefers the Bates. February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Fellom Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#751)

Winemaker’s Notes: “First planted in the 40s and abutting the classic Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain property, Fellom Ranch produces among the most sought after grapes in California…Deep dark purple. Aromas of black current, cherries, clove spice, toasted oak, and cocoa. On the palate, lush & ripe, bramble fruit, enters med-full bodied, supple tannin and acid tension structure. Lovely wine, with pleasure to fill the palate, today, and years to come.”

My Review:  Ruby, purple in the glass. Some chocolate notes on the nose with smooth, rich berries on the palate.  I will do my best to hold this for an appropriate drinking time frame. February 2022

2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, $22 (752)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.”

93 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This blend of 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre speaks so strongly to the terroir of the Central Coast as it is loaded from nose to finish with dewy sagebrush, crisp freshness and peppery spice. It begins with aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and herb, then settles comfortably into a firmly textured palate of oregano, pepper, sandalwood and more red fruit.” Matt Kettmann

My Review:  We tasted this wine out of order. Lovely, light, lean yet good. Always a favorite. February 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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“Shopping” at Home Yields Interesting I Brand Varietals and Vintages!

I’ve been saving up these reviews for a single I Brand post. One of the things I really like about Ian’s wines is his boldness to expose us to varietals which we might not even have heard of – and to do them very well. The Arneis in this post is one of those – the Melon de Bourgogne was another we really enjoyed. And we tend to enjoy the Grenache wines – a varietal lighter than our normal fare, but one I Brand also does very well. His Cabernet Francs fascinate me – different in style from each other and always just a tad leaner than some of the big Cab Francs we tend to get around here. We’ve also been digging deep into our wine room and found some hidden treasures, like the 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah. 

I have 6 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2012-2020 and covering Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2020 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $30 (#633*)

We invited our neighbor over to our sunny patio on this January day and decided to try this Arneis, a varietal I did not know! 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Pale golden yellow in the glass. Bosch pear with orange blossom and lime notes on the nose. Fresh and flinty, it opened up to be a lovely wine with round, flavors of grilled pineapple with a touch of olive juice and lime on the finish. An excellent summer patio wine. January 2022

2019 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#634*)

I needed an orange wine for a Halloween wine class and chose this one from my wine room!  Ian Brand’s orange wax was a great tip that this would be the right wine for our purpose!  I reviewed the 2018 vintage in this blog in December 2020 here: https://decantingmonterey.com/i-brand-family-inching-our-way-to-central-coast-wines/. 

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Light orange like a lollipop in the glass.  Very smooth on the palate with a pleasant tartness on the finish.  We liked this wine. October 2021

2017 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $30 (#635*)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Wine Crush: “This Grenache is mostly sourced from Monterey; it is de-stemmed and stainless steel fermented. The color is extremely pale ruby with, clean ripe aromas of both black and red cherry. Notes of sarsaparilla and a delicate restrained earthy quality.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bodied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of rosewater and red currant.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020

My Review: A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with light cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021

2014 La Marea Grenache, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 14.1% ABV, $38 (#636*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish.  September 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.3% ABV, $42 (#637*)

About Bates Ranch: “Bates Ranch, the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains…located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road… We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet Franc planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of the vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components on the nose. On palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure.  Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.”

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Dark ruby in color.  Red fruits on the nose.  Smooth and fresh, with a medium palate of raspberry, cherry and plum. This is a lighter, more delicate Cab Franc – a great food wine.  January 2022

2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $22 (#638*)

Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Ian Brand’s stab at this grape shows a lot of black rock minerality and bloody meats on the nose, layered across blueberry syrup and sour cherry elements. The palate is much lighter than other takes on this varietal, showing menthol-laced flavors of blackberries and tobacco.” Matt Kettmann, June 2015

My Review: Inky ruby in the glass.  Dark plum and blueberry on the nose.  Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate, enveloped by a licorice finish.  October 2021

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Le P’tit Paysan: Let’s Go Back in Time a Little Bit…

We recently opened Ian Brand’s 2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon and I wrote up this whole side-by-side review of the 2017 and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (2018 previously reviewed here: https://decantingmonterey.com/le-ptit-paysan-new-releases-continue-to-impress/). A few weeks later, we discovered a 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah in our wine room and decided to open it, as well. So, let me revise my planned post a bit!

About Le P’tit Paysan from wine.com: “The Le P’tit Paysan label is ‘Village’ wines reimagined for California. They take vineyards and lots that, for whatever reason, aren’t ready to stand on their own and we compose them into terroir specific, eminently drinkable wines that belong on your table. These wines are made with the same attention to detail that graces our single vineyard offerings, specific site selection, open top fermentation (reds) or whole cluster pressing (whites), a focus on endemic fermentations, no enzymes, no fining, gentle filtration only as needed.  Easy to drink but subtly serious, easy to pair but lovely on their own, demurring complexity, bright acidity, clean and fresh as the ocean air that blows in daily off the Monterey Bay.”

We liked the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and feel the direction of moving to Old Vines fruit from San Benito County, as he did with the 2018, is a great move.  That one was incredibly young when I tasted it and it deserves a revisit soon.  AND, for my DC-area readers, you can find the 2018 at lots of little markets around town!

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, 13.3% ABV, $25 (#475*)

91 Points by wine.com: “Wineries often grapple with this question: Do we produce a style of wine that most consumers will like our do we deliver the best vision of the grape variety? The 2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon pulls no punches and is a true to the grape variety as can be. TASTING NOTES: This wine is pert, well-built and Old World in style. Its aromas and flavors of black currants, earth, and dried herbs and held together in a tight and elegant format. It should pair well with a pan-seared lamb chop. (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)”

My Review: Dark in the glass.  Black fruits on the nose with a touch of cedar.  Dark berry and cherry flavors on the palate.  Vanilla on the finish. A touch acidic. August 2021

2018 Le P’tit Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito County, $25 (#279*) (previously published)

Winery Tasting Notes: “currant, blueberry, cracked black pepper, medium-bodied”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “This is a great example of Cab done in a more classical style, utilizing old vines for their aromatic and flavor range while remaining light on its toes. Aromas of crunchy blackberry, pepper and crushed wet stone lead into an energetic palate of black plum, chaparral spice and cracked pepper.” Matt Kettmann, 09/2021

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  A light, smooth bouquet and palate to match.  Very drinkable – not a big wine, but a great value and drinkable now! March 2021

2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, ~$21 (#476*)

Winery Notes: Black plums, blackberry, crushed rocks, black olive. Full and rich on the palate, but neither hot nor oaky. Structured without being overbearing, rich dark fruit, long finish with hints of stem tannins.

My Review: Inky ruby in the glass. Dark plum and blueberry on the nose. Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit is enveloped by a licorice finish. October 2021

I Brand’s tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for tastings – reservations recommended.  https://www.ibrandwinery.com/visit.  And BIG NEWS:  You can now purchase I Brand wines directly from their website at https://www.ibrandwinery.com/!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Bringing Enz Vineyard Old Vines Mourvèdre to Light!

I remember tasting today’s wine at one of I Brand & Family release parties back in the good old  (pre-COVID) days.  I insisted we pick up a couple.  I first experienced and learned to appreciate Mourvèdre bottled as a single varietal decades ago at Cline Cellars, which was usually our first stop as we entered Sonoma Valley for our wine tasting trips in the ‘80s.    

About Mourvèdre: “If you love Cabernet Sauvignon then Mourvedre is your bag. Mourvedre (aka Monastrell) is a full-bodied and rustic wine that originated in Spain. Rumor has it that the seafaring Phoenicians brought it over as early as 500 B.C. Seemingly obscure, Mourvedre quite often is used as a blending grape in popular wines such as Châteauneuf du Pape. It’s one of the major grapes of the Rhône, along with Grenache and Syrah.” Characteristics: Blueberry, Blackberry, Plum, Black Pepper, Violet, Rose, Smoke, Gravel, Meat  https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/mourvedre-wine/

About the Lime Kiln Valley AVA: “Home only to Enz Vineyards, Limekiln Valley rests inside the Cienega Valley AVA. Limekiln’s soil is sandy, gravelly loam over dolomite and limestone. The summertime average high temperature is 90°F, with a diurnal variation of up to 50°F.” https://winegeeks.com/appellations/162

Enz Vineyards are tucked away below Calera (somewhat-dated map used with permission of geologycafe.com)

About Enz Vineyard: “Enz Vineyard is home to some of the oldest vines in California, dating back to 1887 when they were planted by original homesteaders and were discovered by the Enz family in 1967. Today, these vines are dry farmed and the picturesque vineyard location is tucked away in the valley in a sheltered basin, surrounded by mountains and blocking it from the rest of civilization.” https://www.winc.com/blog/enz-vineyard

2017 I Brand & Family  Old Vines Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, 13% ABV (#357*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Organic. 100% Mourvedre. The Mourvedre block at Enz is just under 8 acres and was planted in the 1920s. It’s a dry-farmed 8 acre block consisting mostly of Mourvedre but also Pais, Carignan, Muscat, Alicante Bouschet on 10 x 10 spacing. Vineyard is at southern base of Mt. Harlan on a 5% incline on north facing slope. Soils are granitic sand with significant limestone and dolomite deposits. The Mourvedre is an isolated genetic line from what’s commonly available in California- the budwood was sourced from original planting in Lime Kiln Valley and brought over from an immigrant from Southern France. Spontaneous fermentation with 50% whole-cluster with stems, other 50% whole berry. Aged on the lees in barrel and puncheon (20% new). 11 months total spent in barrel. Unfined, unfiltered. Bottled and aged 9 months in bottle before release. 125 cs produced.” (found on https://www.vintryfinewines.com/i-brand-family-enz-vineyard-mouvedre-2015.html)

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Raspberry cherry cola on the nose and a spicy dark raspberry on the palate. So different from most of our big reds and very delicious. May 2021

I Brand’s tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for tastings – reservations recommended.  https://www.ibrandwinery.com/visit.  You can also purchase I Brand wines directly from their website at https://www.ibrandwinery.com/!

Melon de Bourgogne: Daring to be Different with a Mixed Up Varietal!

When we got one of our I Brand shipments, we noted something different, a Melon de Bourgogne!  What the heck is that and why is Ian making it? 

About Melon de Bourgogne from wine.com: “Made famous in Muscadet, a gently rolling, Atlantic-dominated countryside on the eastern edge of the Loire, Melon de Bourgogne is actually the most planted grape variety in the Loire Valley. But the best comes from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a subzone of Pays Nantais. Somm Secret—The wine called Muscadet may sound suggestive of “muscat,” but Melon de Bourgogne is not related. Its name also suggests origins in Burgundy, which it has, but was continuously outlawed there, like Gamay, during the 16th and 17th centuries.”

For more information on the growing popularity on the West Coast of Melon de Bourgogne, I found this excellent article:  https://daily.sevenfifty.com/why-american-winemakers-are-embracing-melon-de-bourgogne/. This article highlights that the original grapes planted in Oregon were mislabeled as Pinot Blanc and this mislabeling spread as the grapes did down into California, including in the Chalone AVA!

About the Chalone AVA from https://montereywines.org/vineyards/avas/: “The Chalone region is nestled at 1,800 feet in elevation in the central part of the Gavilan Mountain Range – set against the dramatic backdrop of Pinnacles National Monument. This region has a long history of grape growing, dating back to 1919. Here are found the oldest producing vines in Monterey County. Chalone was awarded its own AVA designation in 1982. Because of its elevation in the mountain range, Chalone is truly unique among Monterey County’s appellations.”

The Chalone AVA is located in an isolated spot in the Gavilan Mountains, along the border between Monterey and San Benito Counties.

Graff Family Vineyard is “a small family vineyard on the Chalone Bench of the Gavilan Mountains. Our family has a 50 year history of winemaking in the Chalone Appellation.” If you look at the map, it appears to be smack in the middle of the Chalone Vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 11.2% ABV (#350*)

This wine boasts CA Hwy 146 on its label. 146 runs to the east of Chalone in both Monterey and San Benito Counties, leading into Pinnacles National Park.

Winemaker’s Notes: “…  because Chalone is nothing like Muscadet, we weren’t at all trying to reference Melon’s home turf. We made this wine with 5 days on skins, then barrel fermented and aged on lees for seven months. Due to the terroir and the skin, it’s decidedly broader than typical Muscadets, but has a subtle brawniness that I enjoy…” (found on winebeserkers.com)

My Review: Straw color in the glass. Fresh gardenia and lemongrass on the nose. Slightly sweet with honeycrisp apple and … on the palate. A little bitter on the finish. Has a very familiar taste – yet hard to pinpoint – very Chardonnay-like, which makes sense, yet a bit like a Sauvignon Blanc, too! I enjoyed this wine! April 2021

I Brand’s tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for tastings – reservations recommended.  https://www.ibrandwinery.com/visit.  And BIG NEWS:  You can now purchase I Brand wines directly from their website at https://www.ibrandwinery.com/!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

The Best of the Rest: I Brand & Family Wines

This is my last of three planned posts on my Spring Release 2021 I Brand wines, with this post focusing on the I Brand & Family label.  This label is for their “California inspired” wines, as compared to the country French and Spanish inspired wines of P’tit Paysan and La Marea, respectively. 

The 4 wines in today’s post are the I Brand & Family 2017 and 2018 Chardonnay, 2019 Pinot Noir (a first!), and a special 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, three of which I tasted in early March at their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. 

One of the things Ian Brand is known for is creative grape sourcing for his vineyards.  In the case of these wines, he is using rather well-known (at least well-known to us locals) vineyards – ones known for producing quality fruit for higher-end wines. 

Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands: “Honore’ Escoole purchased his summer property, for his family in 1878.  He established one of the most desireable benches in Monterey County.  Now, managed under the local Caraccioli Family.  This site, continues to deliver a distinct expression of the northern Santa Lucia Highlands.  Dominate soil Chualar Sandy Loam, which allows great root distribution and development.”  (from I Brand’s tech sheet)

Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County: “Enz Vineyard is located in San Benito County in the little-known Lime Kiln Valley AVA. Enz currently owns about 1,400 acres and is planted with 40 acres of vines. Mourvedre and Zinfandel are the prime varietals however, they also yield small quantities of Pinot St George, Pinot Noir, and Orange Muscat. Although Enz is fairly close to Monterey Bay, the vineyard elevation site above the fog line and the steep valley walls create a warm microclimate ideal for Mourvedre.” California Wine Navigator

Massa Vineyard, Cachagua, Carmel Valley: “Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards.” Heller Estate

“The Massa Vineyard is the new name for the underground classic Durney Vineyard right here in Carmel Valley…We are pleased to be working with the Massa family on excellent organic farming practices…This release comes from its 1971 planting, which we consider far and away the most exceptional blocks on the vineyard.” I Brand Spring Release newswletter

2017 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#281*)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Amazing balance and roundness.  Rich nuttiness, and fruit showcased upon the nose. Partial malolactic fermentation, allows bright acidity to shine, while the creamy characteristic follows upon the palate.  Layers of fruit and baking spices envelop the mouth, providing a silky finish that lasts.  Baked apples, and pineapple lead, with a slight clove finish.  Enjoy now, or cellar for an optimal tasting experience.”  10 months on lees, 50% new French oak.  4 months stainless steel, partial malolactic fermentation.

My Review: Beautiful golden yellow in the glass like sunshine.  Fresh citrus squirt on the nose and more of same on the palate.  A lovely wine. March 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#282*)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: ““bright citrus, macadamia nut, subtle spice, silky smooth”  10 months in 50% new oak, last 4 months in stainess steel.” “Like a sunny day.”

My Review: Brighter yellow than the Albarino.  Mild, buttery and creamy nose.  Toasted marshmallow and butter on the palate with lemon curd on toast on the finish.  Delicious. March 2021

2019 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#283*)

Winery Tasting Notes: “cherry, black tea, rhubarb, damp earth, dry acidity, will grow in expression over the next few years” “A cooler climate Pinot.”

My Review: Strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Raspberry and rhubarb on the palate.  Slight tannin on the finish.  March 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Block 10’, Massa Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 13% ABV, $75 (#284*) 

Winery Tasting Notes: “black current, violet, bergamot, strong & graceful, will age well over 10-12 years” “On par with the Monte Bello Road” (I Brand’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains)

My Review: Deep ruby – bordering on inky. Intense dark berry (great Cachagua fruit) on the nose. Inkiness continues on the palate – rich deep flavors.  The challenge will be to lay it down and not touch it – we are not that disciplined!  March 2021

I Brand’s tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for tastings – reservations recommended.  https://www.ibrandwinery.com/visit.  And BIG NEWS:  You can now purchase I Brand wines directly from their website at https://www.ibrandwinery.com/!

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