Tagged: Marinus

Decanting Monterey Heads East to Spread the Word!

Last week, I went back to DC to visit with family and friends – and to present Monterey County wines to one of the long-established wine groups there.  As a member of this self-run, informal group, I’ve been able to present Monterey wines to them over the years. I’ll be back in the fall presenting 8-10 of our fine wines to one of the Northern Virginia AWS chapters.  

The format for these classes is straightforward: 5 wines, plus bread and cheeses – all within a budget at varying levels.  The challenge is to find exceptional wines at affordable prices that demonstrate the diversity of the region and the prowess of our winemakers. The group seemed very pleased with the Monterey wines I shared with them – I am invited back!

This is the group that got me interested in wine education and certification, eventually leading to this blog. This is all done on a volunteer basis, but has given me a way to deepen my relationships with our local wineries.  In return, I often get to enjoy industry discounts and, on rare occasions, the wineries donate wines for me to sample/review or, even better, wines to present in my classes! These classes are operated on very small budgets – every little bit helps!

For this event, the wineries rolled out the red carpet.  Bernardus donated both cases of their wine to the cause (one was donated in 2020 for a class canceled due to the pandemic), Chesebro gave me a great discount and free shipping, and Bunter Spring gave me their distributor’s rate.  I cannot thank them enough.  

I usually start out explaining where Monterey County is on the Central Coast (not everyone knows – can you believe it?!?); our winemaking history; our unique, cool climate due to its proximity to the deep, frigid waters of the Monterey Bay; plus the diversity in terrain and soils – from the “engine room” of the Salinas River and valley to the rugged mountains of Cachagua and “Greenfield potatoes” of Arroyo Seco. 

And we have frank conversations about the devastating impact of the wildfires on the vineyards, the wineries – the livelihoods and homes of our vintners – it is not just a crop statistic (wine grapes were ranked #5 in 2017 and #12 crop in 2020 – a 44% drop in crop value, according to the Monterey County crop report). It is rewarding to share that we are the largest grower of Chardonnay grapes in the US and Pinot Noir in California – most people do not know these fun facts!

Finally, I like to encourage them to come for a visit! With 65 tasting rooms in the county today, there are lots of options, whether you want to do the River Road Wine Trail, stroll in Carmel-By-The-Sea, drive out to Carmel Valley Village – or even taste in downtown Monterey and Cannery Row!  And our tastings are very affordable, averaging $20-25 vs. what one might pay farther north.  

Of course, the very best part of doing these classes is catching up with my wine friends, seeing my daughter and her friends enjoying these wines, and visiting our old neighborhood. Miss them all.

Here is the lineup of wines I presented last week – most have been reviewed here before. Winery notes coe from their tasting sheets, websites, or conversations with tasting room staff and winemakers:

2021 Chesebro Albariño, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $24 (#734)

Winery Notes: The climate here is quite Mediterranean, like Galicia. All stainless steel – they chill the musk down – longer fermentation, stabilized and bottled cold. Their take on a traditional Spanish white variety.  Lots of stone fruit and citrus with a touch of minerality on the nose. Apricot blossom and kumquat. Balanced, with bright acidity.

My Review: I had only tasted this wine once before when it was first released.  Boy, what a stellar wine to start the evening.  It was knock-your-socks-off flavorful!  It demonstrated how enjoyable a well-made Albariño can be, balanced by the minerality in the soil. Straw in color. Lovely tropical and citrus aromas on the nose. Stone fruit balanced by bright acidity. Tasted in March/June 2022

2020 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 12.6% ABV, $28 (#566) 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon

Winery Notes:   Grapes come from a block specially planted for Bernardus in the Griva Vineyard with the celebrated “Musqué” clone. Hand-picked various ripeness in order to have a broad palette of flavors and acidity for the final blend. Fermentation: cool temperature in stainless steel tanks. Aged for several months in large, neutral 30-year-old French oak tanks. Tasting notes:  Aromas of lime zest accented by grassy notes. The palate is soft and long, exhibiting crisp fruit flavors with notes of lime and grapefruit. A beautiful balance of rich texture and a gently crisp, refreshing acidity. 10,550 + cases produced.

My Review: Tropical nose with pineapple and lime notes and a hint of smoke.  Sophisticated palate reflects the winemaking approach described above.  Tropical and lime zest flavors.  Clean and refreshing. And look at the new labels, reflecting a refreshed brand for Bernardus!

2018 Bunter Spring “Garagitage,” Highlands Vineyard, Monterey AVA , 14.64% ABV, $24 (#526)  76% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winery Notes: Upon release: “These grapes come from a small vineyard in the hills above Arroyo Seco just north of Carmel Valley Road. They were harvested, very ripe, on Sep 30, 2018. Upon release, in spring 2021, as I write, this wine is a rough and tumble California fruit bomb, with tons of grapey flavor, plenty of alcohol, and no manners.  Maybe, someday, it will grow up.  Meantime, have fun!” Spring 2022: “Ripe black fruit, tannic, full bodied. Aged 15 months in once used French oak barrels.” 76 cases produced. 

My Review:  This wine continues to be one of our favorites from Bunter Spring. Dark ruby in the glass. Perfume on the nose, followed by a yummy palate of red and black fruits. Very smooth and drinkable. A terrific bargain. This was a perfect choice as a transition into our bigger reds. 

2014 Chesebro La Montagne Sauvage, CM Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, $35 (#619)

Winery Notes: “Grown on our estate in the Upper Carmel Valley’s rocky mountain soils at 1500’ elevation, this Rhone style blend of 80% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre is powerful and rich with aromas of cassis, dark forest berries, scorched earth and spice.  Blockbuster with a long lingering finish.” 80 cases produced

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Pleasant nose of fresh berries. Palate of berry jam, eucalyptus and chocolate with red currant and anise flavors on the finish. Super delicious.

2014 Bernardus Marinus Estate Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290)52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec 

Winery Notes: Use traditional Bordeaux vinification methods.  Each block of Marinus is farmed separately and picked at its perfect ripeness.  hand sorted and de-stemmed before being fermented in small individual fermenters.  Each one is punched down or pumped over twice daily throughout the lengthy fermentation period.  After a gentle pressing, the wines are transferred to small French oak barrels for malo-lactic fermentation and ageing for 18 months, when the final blend is created. 1375 case-equivalents produced. 

Winery Tasting Notes: Aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. Mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins. 

Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “Candied lilac and boysenberry-juice aromas make for a very fresh, floral and fruity entry to the nose of this blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties. The purple-flower flavors show on the sip too, mixed with acai, and the structure is still tightly woven six years into aging. 92 points, Editors’ Choice.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: This wine was a huge hit with the wine class and a great way to end the class:  Complex and rich. Beautiful dense, dark ruby in the glass. Intense fruit on the nose. Smooth palate full of dark berry fruits, a bit chalky yet fresh. Drinking so well with lots of future for cellaring. I could just keep drinking this wine.

Bernardus: A Perfect Solo Tasting of the 2021 Spring Release

In normal times, the Bernardus tasting room is filled with members and visitors.  During the pandemic, Bernardus has taken a very conservative approach to focus on winemaking while limiting even outdoor tastings – I respect that!  When asked by Heather, the tasting room manager, if I would like to do a tasting when I picked up my wine shipment in early March, I jumped at the opportunity!  Little did I know how solo it would be – I was the only person on their lovely patio!  I felt very safe, as well as catered to! I am presenting six Bernardus wines for today’s blog.

2019 Bernardus Signature Griva Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, $25 (#285*)

Winery Notes: “Our 2019 Signature Griva bottling has aromas of grapefruit accented by mineral nuances. The beautifully rich palate exhibits bright tropical fruit flavors with notes of lime and grapefruit zest. The 2019 version is beautifully rich, yet perfectly balanced with a gently crisp, refreshing acidity.”

My Review: Pale straw in the glass.  Pineapple on the nose, nice crisp acidity on the palate with pineapple notes. I’m a fan of Griva Sauvignon Blanc, so this was a real treat. March 2021

2018 Bernardus Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $50 (#286*)

Winery Notes – 93 Points by Wine Enthusiast and Vinous: “Our 2018 Soberanes Chard exhibits aromas of ripe tropical fruits and baking spice. The palate exhibits its hallmark richness and intensity along with ripe peach flavors and toasty oak notes, which linger on its long, well textured finish.”

My Review: Golden yellow in color, grassy/buttery on the nose with caramel, gardenia, butter and alcohol on the palate. March 2021

2016 Bernardus Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $70 (#287*)

Winery Notes:  “The 2016 Soberanes displays a beautiful ruby robe and vibrant red fruit aromas. The palate exhibits crisp flavors of ripe red cherry and raspberry with a long finish, promising an excellent future ahead.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass,  Red currant and light cherry on the nose.  Earth and cherry notes on the palate – cellar this wine! March 2021

2017 Bernardus Pinot Noir Rosella Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $80 (#288*)

Winery Notes – GOLD – San Francisco Wine Competition:  “The aromas beautifully express the intense red fruits so typical of the finest Pinot vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands. Flavors are very intense with succulent ripe red cherries and cranberries, along with subtle notes of French oak. Our 2017 iteration is a superb expression of this unique vineyard.”

My Review: Ruby in color with a nice, cherry nose.  Bigger palate of cherry/berry flavors with delicious dark and red fruit on the finish. March 2021

First class service at my solo tasting!

2017 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, $50 (#289*) 

Winery Notes: “Our 2017 Cabernet exudes spicy aromas of red berry and cranberry. The palate beautifully reflects the aromas showing juicy red fruit flavors with a subtle, refreshing acidity. Our Cabernet has been aged for six months in 28-year-old neutral French oak tanks in order to allow the fruit flavors of these grapes to shine through without any oak barrel influence.”

My Review: Dense, dark ruby like the 2014 Marinus.  Cherry notes on the nose.  Smooth on the palate – slightly vegetal on the finish.  Very drinkable now, but recommend cellaring. March 2021

2014 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290)

I will be presenting this wine in a future, live WWCS class!!

Winery Notes – 93 Points by Vinous: “The robe of our 2014 Marinus is very deeply-colored. The aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. The mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Beautiful dense, dark ruby in the glass.  Intense fruit on the nose.  Smooth palate full of dark berry fruits, a bit chalky yet fresh. Drinking so well with lots of future for cellaring.  I could just keep drinking this wine. March 2021

The Bernardus Tasting Room will undergo a remodeling – This last reminder that this building was originally a bank is set to go.

The tasting room is closed until May 1, while the staff focuses on winemaking.  You can order wines on line and pick them up at the tasting room. Check here for more information. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

Bernardus: Let’s Celebrate the Tasting Room Reopening with Three Great Wines!

Since we started cataloguing wines last March, it has been quite a process to keep track of which wines I have posted to Decanting Monterey and which I haven’t, as well as all those wines that don’t fit the “Central Coast” criteria!  The Bernardus Pinot Noir in today’s post slipped through the cracks – we’ve actually had this wine three times, so you are benefiting from my most mature review!  I am highlighting it today, along with a couple of my favorites Marinus wines.

2014 Bernardus Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $55 (#42*)

About the Soberanes Vineyard“The Soberanes Vineyard, located in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands, builds upon a tradition of high quality hand-winegrowing. Working together again, the Pisoni and Franscioni families, whose friendship spans three generations and are known for the Pisoni, Garys’, Rosella’s and Sierra Mar Vineyards, have an additional vineyard site to explore.” 38 acres, 27 acres of Pinot Noir. 

Wine Enthusiast – 91 Points:  “Cranberry juice, touches of juniper and muddy-soil notes arise on the nose of this bottling from a popular vineyard in the region. The earthy palate combines a line of beet juice with clay, turned earth, black plum and dried pine needles, framed by chalky tannins.” Matt Kettmann, 3/2017 Drink through 2027.  (The 2018 vintage is the current release, which lists for $70 and is rated 94 points!)

My Review: Garnet in color. Cassis and tobacco on the nose. Mid-to-full bodied, with cassis, plum, eucalyptus and tobacco notes on the palate. Lingering raspberry  with a touch of bitterness. This is a big wine – even this non-Pinot fan like this Pinot Noir. January 2021

About Marinus from Bernardus: “Our Marinus vineyard in upper Carmel Valley is planted with the five traditional red Bordeaux varietals. It is divided into small blocks per grape variety, exposure and soil type. Each block has its own unique terroir and is farmed and hand harvested at peak ripeness to maximize quality. 

Marinus Collection Chez Nous!

“In recent years, our Vineyard Manager Matt Shea and Winemaker Dean DeKorth have been busy refurbishing the Marinus vineyard with spectacular results…”

2012 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#243*) 

2012 Bernardus Marinus

From the Label: “Our California grown Bordeaux-style wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot and Malbec grapes from our Vineyards in the upper Carmel Valley. The Marinus Estate vineyard was chosen for its rare joining of varied soils and sunny  inland climate moderated by a marine influence-ideal conditions for the production of Bordeaux varieties. Taste A Dream.”

Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 points: “One of the winery’s most celebrated releases each year, this blend of all five major Bordeaux red varieties is an excellent showcase of Carmel Valley’s class. Freshly squeezed blackberry and blackcurrant fruit meet with beef char, charcoal and dried lilacs on the nose. The palate tastes of lava rocks, dark chocolate, fresh boysenberries, dried mint and beef jerky, all woven together with a touch of smoke.” 90 points. Matt Kettmann, February 2017

My Review: Dense, dark red, garnet in color.  Black fruits on the nose with deep blackberry and leather. A mouthful of dark, dense fruit.  Leather, pepper and licorice on the finish. This Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wine is best enjoyed decanted.    August 2020

2013 Bernardus Signature Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#244*)

2013 Bernardus Signature Marinus

Winemaker Notes: “The 2013 Signature Marinus represents a selection of the best barrels from the best lots in 2013. It is both elegant, yet very powerful, exhibiting wonderfully intense aromas of ripe cranberry, black cherry and plums accented by spicy notes of cedar. The palate exhibits intense candied red cherry and cranberry flavors with hints of spice, supported by a beautifully long, well-structured finish. Our 2013 Signature Marinus demonstrates the superb quality of the Marinus Vineyard, with the ripe fruit flavors of California matched with the excellent ageing potential of the finest wines of Bordeaux.”

My Review: This was one of the first Marinus Signature series wines I got to know well from our many visits to Bernardus.  When we finally figured out we could be “Marinus only” members, we jumped at the chance.  This is a big, smooth, rich wine, full of yummy berry flavors and a nice finish.  Remains one of my very favorites.  December 2020

Patio Tasting Is Open by Reservation!!

Bernardus is open for curbside pick up Monday through Friday 10-4 and just started back up patio tastings Wednesday through Friday as of 2/10! Please email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call 831-298-8021 for a wine tasting appointment.  Please read more HERE.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

What Central Coast Wines Did You Enjoy over the Holidays?

I hope you enjoyed your holidays and tried some new wines or revisited familiar favorites. I would love to hear from you: Which Central Coast wines did you open over the holidays and how were they? Please comment below!

We enjoyed wines from around the world – France, Italy, Washington, Napa, Carmel Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains and Paso Robles.

Here are the Central Coast wines we tasted over the holidays (reviews to come!):

  • 2011 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley, with our Christmas dinner
  • 2018 Samuel Louis Smith Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains
  • 2007 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley on New Year’s Eve
  • 2006 Bear Cave Cellars Reserve Syrah, Paso Robles, also on New Year’s Eve

And, once again, which Central Coast wines did you open over the holidays – what did you think of them? I look forward to hearing from you!

Happy New Year!

Bernardus: Creating “wines that flatter the palate and stimulate the imagination”

Bernardus has one of the nicest tasting rooms in the valley – we would always stop in to taste their wines and see what was on sale.  They kept telling us we should join their club, but we are very specific in the wines we like to buy.  One day, I realized they had a “Marinus only” club and we joined immediately.  In addition to lovely allocations of Marinus wines, we have reaped many benefits from private tastings to winemaker dinners since we joined.  I exposed you to their wines back in July: Bernardus 2010 Marinus and Parrot Ranch 2005.  Let’s dig a little deeper into the Marinus wines, among the very finest wine from Carmel Valley.

We love being members of the Bernardus Marinus-Only Club!

About Bernardus Vineyards & Winery: “The focus of Bernardus is to create wines that flatter the palate and stimulate the imagination. Founder Ben Pon appreciated wine as an art – a form of art that transcends the ordinary. His dream with Bernardus was to make a red wine equal to the finest from Bordeaux.” 

From Bernardus: “Carmel Valley is surrounded by the ridges of the Santa Lucia Mountains. Cachagua Valley is a sun-trap, a “bowl” in a high elevation that is shielded from the coastal fog and ideal for growing Bordeaux-style grapes. The daily temperatures vary from over 100° F. during the day to 50° F. during the night…Marinus vineyard soils are varied. They range from clay loam to sandy loam…Each vintage of Marinus represents the artistic interpretation of the vineyard cultivation along with the flavor elaboration in the winemaking process. A blend of Bordeaux varitetais, Marinus is the signature Bernardus wine from the Carmel Valley estate vineyard…”

2011 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#156*)  Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 23%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%

The 2011 Bernardus Marinus is a Cabernet-Sauvignon-driven Bordeaux blend.

Winemaker Notes: “The robe of our 2011 Marinus is a very deeply-colored ruby-red. The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar and spices. The delicious flavors are very dense and full, with spicy black cherry and ripe plum flavors. The finish is very well structured, promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”

Wine Enthusiast Review: “Black and white pepper, boysenberries and roasting pork notes show on the fresh and vibrant nose of this blend of the five red Bordeaux varietals. Light and lively on the palate, it offers lots of boysenberry energy, with more pepper, thyme, cardamom and tea elements. It’s a refreshing change of pace from a cool vintage.” 90 points. Matt Kettmann, April 2016

My Review: Dense, dark red, garnet in color.  Black fruits on the nose with deep blackberry and leather. A mouthful of dark, dense fruit.  Leather, pepper and licorice on the finish. This Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wine is best enjoyed decanted.    August 2020

2013 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.5% ABV, $75 (#157*) Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 25%, Cabernet Franc 2%:

The 2013 Marinus is a rich, smooth, and complex blend of deliciousness!

Winemaker Notes: “The robe of our 2013 Marinus is a very deep crimson. On the nose we find dried cranberry aromas accented by subtle spice notes. The palate is intensely flavored with impressions of bright red cherry and plum. The finish shows excellent tannic structure promising a long life for this vintage of Marinus, much like that of a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Inky deep, dense garnet in color, this wine has a bouquet of blackberry, plum and cedar. It is rich, smooth and complex in cherry and cassis flavors, with balanced tannins revealing licorice and a touch of leather on the finish.  This wine is so delicious, I forgot to stop to taste it and simply began to enjoy it. One of the best wines we have opened lately – and perhaps my favorite Marinus vintage to date (don’t tell 2010!). September 2020

Ooh, ooh – Bernardus is reopening its Tasting Room for outdoor tastings for Wine Club Members only beginning October 8th!  By appointment only – read more HERE.

We’ve missed being able to drop in here to see what they are pouring and what’s on sale!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Where There’s Fire, There’s More Than Smoke Taint

Billowing Smoke from the Carmel Fire Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern

Over this past week, one fire after the other has sparked in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties, turning our sunny blue skies into a creepy gray and orange. Things are not normal. When the River Fire started burning this past Sunday, my first thought was our Santa Lucia Highland and Monterey AVA grapes all the way down the River Road Wine Trail. Alert after alert about residences being evacuated made this much more concerning and real – lives and homes at stake. When the Carmel Fire down east of Cachagua broke out on Tuesday, my worry turned to all my favorite Cachagua vintners – which I had just talked about in this blog. And to my friends who live in the valley. This fire goes well beyond smoke taint as residents, including our vintner friends, are evacuating and their wineries are being threatened of destruction. And then there is the Bonny Doon Fire up in Santa Cruz, with its evacuees sheltering in my little town and its smoke turning our skies so strange, with our sun at times appearing red. These fire threaten more than a single vintage – they threaten residences – including vintners and their families, entire vineyards, wineries, inventory, and years of production. Let us hope they can be contained.

Carmel Valley Smokey Sunset Photo Courtesy of Deborah Stern

I had planned to take a moment out of regular wine reviews to talk about what happens when things don’t go right.  But I wasn’t expecting them to go so devastatingly badly.  This is a retrospective of the impact of fire and smoke of what happened to wine production when the Soberanes fire hit Big Sur in 2016.  What happened in 2016 will now look like a blip compared to what I expect will be the damage from these August 2020 fires.  I only know of one winery which sustained direct fire damage from the 2016 Soberanes Fire. 

The 2016 Soberanes Fire started in July from an illegal campfire, before the grapes were fully mature, but it kept going through October, growing to a 90,000-acre fire.  The smoke from this fire was intense throughout the region, but only a single Monterey County AVA suffered the smoke damage – Carmel Valley AVA.  I became obsessed with learning more about the impact of this fire and what steps my usual wineries took as a result. 

First, I had to discover why just Carmel Valley.  After much research, I came up with 2 primary reasons.  First, the location, with Carmel Valley just north of the fire.  Second, the Monterey Bay’s 2-mile deep Submarine Canyon.  The winds off the Monterey Bay are stronger in the other AVAs, as it goes swooping down the Salinas Valley all the way down and throughout even the most southern AVAs.  Those winds just lightly creep into Carmel Valley. 

What did the Carmel Valley wineries do?  Many wineries tossed their fruit, some bottled it anyway to capture the unique flavors, some blended smoke tainted juice with juice from another AVA and changed their maturation techniques, some only offer their smokey wine if you inquire about it in the tasting room and refuse to sell it if you haven’t tasted it – know what you are buying, or they instead sourced grapes from one of the other AVAs.

I presented a class for the Northern Virginia American Wine Society last fall and I challenged them to identify what was so different between two 2016 Syrahs – same vintage, different Monterey AVAs:  one from Arroyo Seco and one from Carmel Valley.  I didn’t tell them about the fire.  There were a lot of guesses around the room, but only Chris Pearmund, the owner/vintner of Pearmund Cellars, guessed right:  smoke.

The wines aren’t ruined – they are interesting, different.  A high-quality smoke tainted wine can still be a very good wine.  And sometimes only a discerning palate will figure out it is smoke taint.  They are surprised I can detect it on the nose or palate, saying I am especially sensitive to it – but maybe it is simply because I know it is there.  Some wines might taste a little like ham hock, while others might leave a stronger aftertaste of smoke or ash.  It doesn’t dissipate over time – it will never truly go away.  And you might appreciate the wine because it represents a moment in time when things didn’t go right, yet the winery had the guts to produce it anyway. 

As an example, we were consumers of the Bernardus Marinus 2008 because it was special.  And Parsonage boldly made their 2016 wines – either sourcing fruit differently, blending it, or maturing it in neutral oak.  Sometimes when I taste their 2016 Rocco Reserve Syrah, I notice it more – as if you are at a camp fire, roasting S’Mores.  Recently, we decanted the Rocco and barely detected any smoke taint at all – just its usual deliciousness.  And smoke taint is barely detectible – sometimes not detectible at all – in their 2016 Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. 

My advice is be an educated consumer – know which vintage you are drinking and which AVA your grapes are coming from if you are looking at wines from a region affected by fire.  Read the reviews, taste before buying if you can, and figure out for yourself if you like it or not.  It is all subjective!

The tasting rooms throughout the valley were just recovering from the lack of 2016 wines to pour to guests.  They were just starting to roll out their post-fire wines when they were shut down for COVID and some later reopened on an outdoor tasting/curbside pickup basis only.  While there is never a good time for a devastating fire like this, I can’t think of a worse time.  I believe everything in Carmel Valley Village and River Road down to Arroyo Seco is shut down right now.  Give our vintners some space and let’s hope and pray not everything is destroyed. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Bernardus Marinus 2010 and Parrot Ranch 2005

2010 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $65 Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 59%, Merlot 29%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%

2005 Parrot Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, $25*, 14.1% ABV. Blend:  Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Cabernet Franc 9%, Merlot 4%

As I continue my trek through Carmel Valley AVA’s Cachagua region, it is my pleasure to introduce the truly local, long time powerhouse – Bernardus.

Bernardus – The First Tasting Room in Carmel Valley!

I relied heavily on their webpage to summarize this overview over the years I have been presenting their wines.

A former race car driver and Olympic athlete, Dutch Owner Ben Pon’s dream with Bernardus was to make a red wine equal to the finest from Bordeaux. He selected Carmel Valley, confident his vineyards there could produce wines to rival the greatest on the globe.

More than a quarter-century later, he’s accomplished his goal, not only with his estate Bordeaux blend, called Marinus (after his middle name) selling for $75-$125, but with a powerhouse portfolio of single-vineyard-designated Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sadly, Mr. Pon passed away in the Fall of 2019, but his legacy continues. Making over 50,000 cases/year Bernardus has many wines available throughout the US.

A Lineup of Marinus Wines from Our Wine Room!

I’m presenting two of their wines from Cachagua today – two of the 55+ wines from the Central Coast we tasted and reviewed while sheltering in place.

The Carmel Valley’s terrain and climate is ideal for creating rich, full bodied wines; the Bordeaux varietals are favorites here, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comprising more than 70% of the grapes grown in the AVA.

Ben Pon also had the foresight 20 years ago to open the first tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. It is one of the nicest tasting rooms in the valley – we would always stop in to taste their wines and see what was on sale. They kept telling us we should join their club, but we are very specific in the wines we like to buy. One day, I realized they had a “Marinus only” club and we joined immediately. We have reaped many benefits from private tastings to winemaker dinners since we joined. Let’s dig a little deeper into the Marinus wines…

A Fun, Private Bernardus Tasting with Friends, April 2019

From Bernardus: “Carmel Valley is surrounded by the ridges of the Santa Lucia Mountains. Cachagua Valley is a sun-trap, a “bowl” in a high elevation that is shielded from the coastal fog and ideal for growing Bordeaux-style grapes. The daily temperatures vary from over 100° F. during the day to 50° F. during the night…Marinus vineyard soils are varied. They range from clay loam to sandy loam…Each vintage of Marinus represents the artistic interpretation of the vineyard cultivation along with the flavor elaboration in the winemaking process. A blend of Bordeaux varitetais, Marinus is the signature Bernardus wine from the Carmel Valley estate vineyard…”

2010 Marinus tasting notes:

From the winery: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

2010 Bernardus Marinus: Drink Me Now!

My Review of the 2010 Marinus: We’ve been enjoying this wine for several years now and it does not disappoint.  Drink now.  One of my favorite events of 2019 was attending a Marinus Winemaker’s Dinner catered by a local chef.  They served a different vintage with each course.  That was an amazing night.  Sure hope we get to do that again.  This wine is available for purchase from the winery – watch for sales! May 2020

2005 Parrot Ranch tasting notes:

From the winery: “Robe: Deep crimson-red color. Youthful aromas of cherries and cranberries accented with notes of cedar, toasty oak and spice beautifully express the excellence of the terroir of Carmel Valley.  The vibrant flavors of ripe red fruits, licorice and cedar accented with mineral notes are concentrated and well -focused. Our 2005 Parrot Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon is drinking wonderfully now, but the freshness of flavor and fine tannins on the finish promise a rewarding future for several years to come.” 3,000 cases produced.

2005 Parrot Ranch

My review of the 2005 Parrot Ranch: Intense red berries, sweet and pleasantly jammy. Smooth and very elegant, soft round tannins and intense aftertaste.  Any-day occasion wine with a quality feel provided by the aging process, plummy liquorish feel with earthy and forest floor flavors. Drink now. March 2020

My understanding is when the fruit doesn’t meet the quality for the Marinus label, it has occasionally been bottled under the Parrot Ranch label.  We have purchased many cases of this wine and I presented it in one of my Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar wine classes – a bit hit.  We at times purchased it for only $10/bottle and are still enjoying it.  It is sold out.

Their wines can be found in many wine shops around the U.S., with the best place to order directly on its webpage.

As of this writing, Bernardus has not re-opened their tasting room and is focusing on wine production and virtual wine tastings.

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