As I continue on my hunt for wines for my upcoming wine class in Washington DC, I stopped in at the Scheid Vineyards tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea. When you drive down Hwy 101 past Soledad, you will see Scheid VIneyards as far as the eye can see! There were three reasons why I sought out Scheid wines: 1. I thought it would be good to honor the legacy of their founder, Al Sheid, who passed away about a year ago. 2. In addition, it would allow me to present wines from less well known AVAs, such as San Lucas. 3. And, probably the main driver on that day, I noticed they had $1 shipping for a case of wine!
I was warmly greeted by the staff, who clearly understood my purpose. I was a bit rushed for this tasting, as I could only find a 30-minute parking space in crowded Carmel-by-the-Sea. The Scheid tasting room staff accommodated me! I was excited to try the current vintages of the Barbera and the 50/50, one of my favorites of their blends. But it was a blend I had not previously tried that caught my attention this time for my DC class: the 2020 Scheid Arbolitos, a ‘Super Tuscan” red blend. I am a Big Red girl, after all.
ABOUT SCHEID VINEYARDS – AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE
I would encourage you to read the history of Sheid Vineyards on their website here. It is an interesting story. What began as an investment as a tax shelter (they are quite transparent about this) grew into vineyards as far as the eye can see as you drive down Highway 101.
“For the first 15 years or so, Scheid Family Wines was known as Monterey Farming Corp., a grape grower that sold all of its production to winery clients for use in their own brands…
“Which brings us to today. We now own 12 estate vineyards located along a 70-mile stretch of the Salinas Valley. While in the early days, our business was about supplying grapes to other wineries, we now focus on building our own brands which we produce at our state-of-the-art winery, as well as a smaller Reserve Winery where the small production wines of Scheid Vineyards are crafted.”
“San Lucas is nestled on the southwestern edge of the Salinas Valley. Comprised of sweeping alluvial fans and terraces, grape growers have cultivated over 8,000 acres. Unlike other AVAs in Monterey County, San Lucas experiences significantly less cooling from Monterey Bay, which results in a warmer overall climate.
“Fluctuating elevations expose this area to morning fog and temperatures that oscillate as much as 40 degrees during the summer from day to night. These conditions contribute to a protracted growing season that yields grapes with full bodies and flavors. These grapes boast stunning color commensurate with their flavor, and varietals include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc”
Today I am presenting 5 Scheid Vineyardswines from this February tasting. Winery notes come from the tasting sheet or their website, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. As a rule, I do not correct typos from the wineries’ websites.
Winery Notes: “Featuring the bright, ripe raspberry fruit of Grenache, the jamminess and lushness of Syrah, and the subtle spice and earth of Mourvèdre, this captivating blend is a balance of delightful flavors. Aromas of currant, cherry and raspberry on a medium-bodied palate of bright fruit and balanced acidity lead into a lingering red fruit finish.”
My Review: Pleasant, Concord grape nose. Bright acidity on the palate. Refreshing. February 2024
2022 Scheid Barbera, San Lucas Vineyard, San Lucas AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $36 (#1284)
Winery Notes: “Our 2021 vintage is bright and appealing, with ripe red fruit flavors of cranberry, cherry and currant accented by vanilla and floral notes. The texture is vibrant yet velvety with juicy, supple tannins and a medium-bodied mouthfeel. An exuberant fresh fruit character makes for a delicious experience.”
My Review: Pretty bright ruby in the glass. Earth and forest floor on the nose. Rich on the palate – a dense wine. A pleasing and flavor-packed, medium-bodied palate with a tart finish. February 2024
Winery Notes: “Our 2020 50/50 possesses the structure and dark fruit flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon and the softness and punched up fruit of Syrah. Aromas of blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum are accented with hints of pepper and vanilla. Rich black fruit, integrated tannins and a subtle toasty oak finish will convince you that soul mates really do exist.”
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Plum, blackberry, and blueberry jam with a hint of earth on the tasty, lively palate. Licorice notes on the finish. This wine is not too heavy. Right up my alley. February 2024
Winery Notes: “Our 2020 vintage is intense and focused, with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and ripe plum with notes of tarragon and toasty oak. Bold and full-bodied, it is framed by elegant tannins. Lingering notes of black fruit, vanilla and mocha prevail on the finish. While drinking beautifully now, this rich and vibrant Cabernet will age nicely over the next 5-10 years.”
My Review: Wood chips on the nose. Very tasty palate with smooth tannins. This is an easy drinking, “Tuesday night” wine. I kind of like it. February 2024
2020 Scheid Arbolitos, San Lucas Vineyard, San Lucas AVA, Monterey County, 15.5% ABV, $40 (#1287) 28% Primitivo, 28% Barbera, 19% Charbono, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignan, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Winery Notes: “Our 2020 vintage is intense and focused, with aromas of blackberry, black cherry, ripe plum and elderberry. Acidic, bright and medium-bodied, it is framed by soft tannins. A rich red fruit finish prevails with notes of vanilla and mocha.”
My Review: A Super Tuscan-style field blend. Cassis on the nose – intense delicious fruit. Very delicious. Jammy smooth complex palate. I really like this wine and selected it for my next class. February 2024
Their tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea at San Carlos and 7th is consistently ranked Top Tasting Room in the Monterey County Weekly’s “Best of” competition: “A block off Ocean Avenue in historic Carmel-by-the-Sea, our Tasting Room is a warm and inviting haven to taste an array of our wines.”
At their winery located at 1972 Hobson Ave, Greenfield, CA: “Just off Highway 101 between Greenfield and King City, our “home” location set among the vineyards and easy to find thanks to our 400ft wind turbine.”
We really enjoy our big red wines from Parsonage. During February, we tried 3 of them: the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, the newly-released 2018 Tanner Reserve, and a recent library acquisition: the 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – before it was named Tanner! Who says Monterey doesn’t make great cabs?
We recently dined with friends at Maligne restaurant in Seaside, CA. We decided to bring a special wine for corkage there and thought the 2005 Parsonage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon would be the perfect one – it did not disappoint!
I’ve presented Parsonage wines to you many times. Just type Parsonage in the search bar of any page on the Decanting Monterey website. And while you’re there, sign up to get my blog delivered to your email every Thursday!
THE WINES – Who Says Monterey Doesn’t Make Great Cabs?
Today, I am presenting five Parsonage wines. Winery notes come from their website, tasting sheets, or release notes, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. I previously presented the 2017 Parsonage Cabernet Sauvignon way back in 2020 and this is the first time I have presented the rest.
Winery Notes (upon release): “This Cabernet Sauvignon field blend is joined with a mix of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s a full-throttle bombastic beauty, typical of younger vines. The nose is all about very dark fruit marked by brambleberry compote. Plum and cassis join with the brambleberry on a muscular palate that finishes with some major league tannins.”
My Review: Luscious and beautiful intense, dark garnet in the glass. Tobacco, intense dark fruit on the nose. A palate of black fruits with a chalky and bitter tannic finish. It’s a big wine. Needs to open up. February 2024
Winery Notes: “Round and opulent with fully ripened tannins leading to a smooth finish.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. (Or as Bill Parsons said, “One of the deepest mauves I’ve ever seen.”) A lot of fresh fruit and caramel on the nose. Good balance of tasty fruit and structure. This wine has a long way to go. As my partner said, “The tannins are very assertive.” Hold this wine. February 2024
2005 Parsonage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $135 (#1269)
grapelive.com Review: “Every vintage just gets better here, and 2005 looks set to take the throne as the Parsonage king wine. Nothing in this area even comes close to this wine, it is a freak of nature and I can only compare it to Napa and Pauillac in its style and richness, then again it just might even be better! Bill Parsons finds it hard to take in, but he is a man living the dream, as his wines rank as world class or even world-beaters! The 05 Reserve Cab is utterly fantastic with blackberry jam, cassis, currants and plum fruit bursting at the seams, it is almost more impressive for the depth and balance that is has! Everything is in its place and the wine is so focused and defined it can’t help but be a classic.” 98 Points, grapelive
My Review: Very dark in the glass. Dirt, oak and black fruit notes on the nose. Delicious and well-structured palate, finishing with blackberry, plum and dark cherry flavors. Can respect the age of this very well made and elegant wine. It is aging nicely and can still be enjoyed for years to come. If you’ve got one, why not enjoy it now? February 2024
2020 Parsonage The Aussie Red Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $44 (#1270)
Winery Notes: “Our popular, magical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. We like to pair it with rack of lamb or duck. This is a big red wine. 50% Cab and 50% Syrah.
“The 2020 Aussie posits a massive bouquet in a spectrum of rich black fruit, fennel, and mineral notes. The robust palate exhibits blackberry, currant and an explosion of savory, earthy, grilled meat on its full throttle finish.”
My Review: Cherry notes, followed by a big palate of dark fruit. My style of wine. The first 2 times I tried it, I detected a hint of smoke on the finish. However, I did not notice that at all on my last tasting. March 2024
Winery Notes: “A fragrant nose of rose petal, bing cherry, cola, and Darjeeling tea. Theses flavor essences are joined on the medium-density palate by strawberry and red raspberry on the elegantly tart finish. Pairs excellently with Gruyere and crackers.”
My Review: We tasted this wine and considered it representative of the region. It’s a good Pinot. I’m not a Pinot Noir fan and I didn’t take specific notes. My apologies. February 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
Parsonage is open for tastings every day – click herefor the details and to make a reservation. Hours: Monday – Friday: noon to 5pm; Saturday & Sunday: 11am to 5pm. Last seating for wine tasting: 4:15pm. You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at 19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village.
As a huge fan of Monterey County wines, I hold a special place for the resources and efforts of Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association. When I learned I could be there to join the Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years, I could not wait for the date!
THE STORY – The Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years
This annual meeting was held on January 31st at Rustiqué Winery out River Road. It was mostly attended by our local vintners and a handful of their supporters. After their board meeting, we mingled and sampled some of their newest wines, some not yet released. It was a relaxed and friendly setting with a delicious lunch, followed by the meeting itself.
MINGLING
Before the meeting, I had the chance to speak with several winemakers I have gotten to know over the years. We asked about the 2023 vintage and heard the following: gratitude for the lack of wildfires, plentiful in yield, yet some mixed results vineyard by vineyard. David Baird from Folktale indicated he is looking forward to the imminent release of his 2023 whites and rosé. I thanked Miguel Lepe of Lepe Cellars for recently hosting the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society and he invited us back any time! Sabrine Rodems was very excited to show off the new Scratch C-47 Grenache-Syrah. Adrien Valenzuela from Corral Wine Co.brought their latest Petite Sirah just being released – wow. Kirstie Dyer invited us up to Holman Ranch for a tour and tasting. Dennis Hoey of Odonata did a double-take at our last name – just one letter separates us. People do ask me if we are related. Later, I joked that we should invite him to our upcoming family reunion as a long, lost cousin!
There were a number of Associate members of the group present, to whom I was introduced as a “Monterey County wine influencer.” I prefer the term “groupie.” I’m just a passionate fan and wine educator who helps get the word out about our fabulous wineries and wines.
THE MEETING
At the meeting itself, there was great recognition of how far the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association has come over these past 50 years – from their early meetings in a bar to having this larger meeting in a winery barn! Kudos were given to Kim Stemler, the face of Monterey wines, for her hard work increasing the profile of our vineyards and wineries, while working with regulatory bodies.
Kim has worked to support the members and to find solutions to challenges like COVID and wildfires (air support first makes a difference!). She provides a single point of information to streamline communication. One marketing success from 2023 was renaming the River Road Wine Trail to the Monterey Wine Trail and soon we will see new signs put up to help guide visitors. And she helped us get our local wines onto the shelves of Whole Foods! She also talked about getting wineries to visit each other to share techniques and expertise.
BRAINSTORMING
The next part of the meeting was to brainstorm at our tables some of the biggest positives and negatives for the region. At our table, we talked about the positive of growing recognition of Monterey County wines and the negative of increased shipping costs throughout the production supply chain, including delivery to consumers. As an example, the sharp increase in shipping costs during and after the pandemic have made it increasingly difficult for me to put together a class for my DC-based group.
With this much growth in the past 50 years, I can’t even imagine what it will be like the next time the Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years!
THE WINES
Today I am sharing impressions of 9 of these latest wines; I didn’t take detailed notes. Winery notes, where available, come from their websites or labels, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Moonlit Harvest Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $22 (#1246) produced and bottled by Cowboys, Livermore, California
From the Back Label: “Eighteen eighty-three is the year C.H. Wente founded his winery in Northern California. This wine pays homage to his pioneering spirit and passion for quality grape growing and winemaking. The grapes for this wine were grown and harvested under our serenely moonlit estate vineyards located in Monterey, regarded as one of the best places in California to grow Chardonnay. The cool, coastal influences are ideal for delivering flavors of ripe apple, guava and mango balanced by subtle oak, vanilla and spice. Enjoy!”
My Review: Quite tasty and balanced with distinct tropical notes balanced with a little buttery oak – quite representative of a Monterey County Chardonnay. I would present this in a class. January 2024
2022 (?) Kori Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1247)
My partner poured this, so I am assuming it is the 2022, for which I cannot yet find any notes.
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: The tasty fruit for this wine comes from one of a top Arroyo Seco vineyard – Griva. A nice balance of citrus flavors with a predominance of that classic Sauvignon Blanc grassiness. January 2024
My Review: Big, bold flavors in this well-balanced wine. I don’t know the blend, but it clearly has enough Syrah to please my palate. Excellent. January 2024
2020 Corral Petite Syrah, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV (#1249)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Rich and dark blue and blackberry tongue-coating flavors. I know I am not supposed to have favorites but this was, for our palates, our favorite wine of the day! January 2024
2019 Silvestri Eugenia Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $65 (#1250)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Eugenia is a unique blend of our estate reds (35% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Franc,15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot) at 25% New French Oak. Aged 18 months in barrel… Our version of a Bordeaux blend using all five varietals with Malbec leading and Cabernet Sauvignon just behind offering bold flavors of plumb and black currant and structure. Cabernet Frank and Merlot evenly support with balancing softness and a slight herbacousness and a minor contribution of Petit Vedot with color, tannin and spice.”
My Review: Very berry on the nose and palate, opening into a richer red. Tasty. January 2024
2021 Rustiqué Syrah, Tondré Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV (#1251)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: I was excited to try this Syrah from the esteemed Tondré Grapefield. My guess is that it is the first Syrah produced by Rustiqué. It was quite berry on the nose, followed by a very nice palate. I’d like to try this again. Time for a visit to Rustiqué! January 2024
2019 Odonata Sangiovese, Machado Creek Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.2% ABV (#1252)
Winery Notes: “Strawberries, hints of cinnamon, leather and earth. The palate is round with balanced acidity and tannin. Great vintage for Machado Sangiovese, this wine is powerful and fruit forward, but will lean out into dried leaf and cool subtleties as time progresses. 10-20 year wine for sure.”
My Review: We got a lot of berry and cherry flavors with solid tannins on the finish – agree this would benefit from cellaring and I would like to taste it again!January 2024
2021 Bernardus Pinot Noir, Garys’ Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.7% ABV, $80 (#1074)
Winery Notes: “The renowned Garys’ Vineyard was planted with the celebrated “Pisoni clone” by the two iconic growers of the Santa Lucia Highlands: Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni. Together they have brought worldwide attention to this fabulous appellation for the exceptional quality of its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. This year, Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni have graciously offered Bernardus a few extra tons of the superb Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (expertly farmed by Mark Pisoni). This enabled us to ferment in 3 small fermenters, providing a new subtle complexity to the finished wine.
“Our 2021 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir exudes a gorgeous perfume of ripe, dark red fruits along with notes of rose pedal. The fabulous palate is very intense – powerful yet elegant – with layers of boysenberry, ripe black cherry and a hint of spice. This is without a doubt, our finest Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir to date!”
My Review: We somehow ended up with a bottle of this wine at our table. Pinot Noir is not my wheelhouse, but this big, complex Bernardus Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir is one of the finest I have tried. A pretty, bright red ruby color. Cherry and raspberry nose, followed by continued red fruit flavors on the complex palate. It went exceptionally well with our meal. January 2024
2021 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV (#1253)
Winery Notes: N/A.
My Review: Tobacco on the nose. Dark plum and berry flavors on the palate. Pretty delicious. This was a great wine with which to finish the program.
THE TASTING ROOMS
With the exception of Moonlit Harvest, these wines can be tasted in our local Monterey County tasting rooms, spanning the 3 regions of Carmel-by-the-Sea, Carmel Valley Village, and the Monterey Wine Trail. You can find more information on their websites or at the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association website.
Last August, I had the chance to meet Miguel Lepe of Lepe Cellars and his assistant Thyra Roth at the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Trade and Media Tasting in Carmel-by-the-Sea. There, I asked him if he would be interested in hosting the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for one of their First Friday events – and he said yes! We finally held that event in early December and it became our chapter’s holiday party at his tasting room inside the Winfield Art Gallery. He was a gracious host, educating our group on his wines and sharing about his winemaking journey.
“Miguel Lepe studied enology and viticulture at California Polytechnic State University – SLO. He began his career working for various well respected wineries across California’s Central Coast and South America. Passionate about his craft, Miguel’s hard work and dedication has led him on a new journey – creating Lepe Cellars to showcase the best of Monterey County wines.”
Our Mission
“We take great pride in blending the best of Old World and New World techniques, enabling the wine to develop naturally over time and allowing the journey to be kept as pure as possible, highlighting the regions true terroir.”
THE WINES
I have 7 Lepe Cellars wines to present to you today representing 5 distinct AVAs within Monterey County!You can read more about Monterey’s AVAs here. Winery notes come from their website unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2021 Lepe Cellars Chardonnay, River Ranch Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $38 (#1234)
Winery Notes: “Citrus and white flower aromas lead into a bright profile with green apples, lemon, and honeysuckle with a touch of minerality on the palate.”
My Review: Pineapple and butter notes on the nose. Crisp and flavorful on the palate with a slightly acidic finish. I took one home. December 2023
2022 Lepe Cellars Sangiovese Rose, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#1109)
Winery Notes: “This bright, stone fruit focused dry Rosé starts out with a burst of peach and apricot leading into hints of tangerine. Pairs well with seared salmon, lobster and tuna tartare.”
My Review: A light, pretty pink hue in the glass. Caramel and fruit notes on the nose. Really delicious palate of peach – great balance of sweet and dry. I’d enjoy this in the microclimate. December 2023
2022 Lepe Cellars Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV , $40 (#1236)
Winery Notes: (Description of the 2021 vintage) “Fresh and soft in style, unleashing notes of cherries and raspberries on the palate with hints of hibiscus and rose petals on the nose.”
My Review Powered by Terravenos: Cherry on the nose. Smooth, young. In a year, it will be glorious. Perfumed with cherry, berry and savory notes – very good with the white cheddar. December 2023
2021 Lepe Cellars Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $55 (#1237)
Winery Notes: “Bright and lush in style, unleashing fresh juicy cherries and raspberries with hints of hibiscus on the finish. Light to medium body spectrum achieving a fresh fruit forward profile.”
My Review: This Pinot Noir comes from one of my favorite vineyards for Pinot in the Santa Lucia Highlands. This was a much richer, darker wine with more tobacco and tannin on the palate and finish – a very different wine from the first Pinot Noir. December 2023.
2021 Lepe Cellars Zinfandel, Wellong Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $42 (#1238)
Winery Notes: “This single-vineyard expression from southern Monterey County begins with a floral hit on the nose before diving into cherry-compote and crushed rock aromas. There is red-plum on the palate with hibiscus and cinnamon tones, finishing with a spicy kick of white pepper.”
My Review: Smokey caramel on the nose. Rich dark berries, a little sweet on the palate. This is one of the best examples of Zinfandel in Monterey County. December 2023
2021 Lepe Cellars Syrah, Zabala Vineyards, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $55 (#1239)
Winery Notes: “Intriguing aromas of fresh blueberry and violets with hints of dark plum, black pepper and milk chocolate on the palate tied together with soft lush tannins.”
My Review: Very dark in the glass. A warm nose with black berries. Rich palate of dark fruit. Tastes more high alcohol than it is. I’d like to put this up against a Halter Ranch. I’m always on the hunt for a Syrah made from Zabala Vineyards fruit. I like this wine and took one home. December 2023
2020 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $49 (#1110)
Winery Notes: “Elegant aromas of wild strawberry, savory soy and light licorice show on the nose of this pure varietal. Dark plum and cherries show on the first sip, with a bit of earthy forest floor woven with pepper, oak and tannin creating a velvety, rich texture.”
My Review: I’ve had this wine before and described it like this: “Plummy and jammy on the nose. Tobacco and dark fruits on the palate. Very nice.” But today, my palate said it was smokey, baby. This is a 2020 wine, after all. I’ll need to try it again. December 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The Lepe Cellars tasting room is open daily from 12-7 p.m. inside the Winfield Art Gallery on Doloresbetween Ocean & 7th, Carmel-By-The-Sea.
I Brand & Family had a low key Autumn Release in November with pickups in the tasting room and not at a party at the winery. Ian explained why: harvest and crush were very late this year due to the cool spring and long growing/ripening season. Instead, he hosted a member holiday party in December, where we were able to taste verticals of their Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre wines. What a treat! There was also great music by El Pecado de Juana, delicious tamales Oaxaquenos by Pedro Martinez & Family and a vegan pozole by Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Cultura.
I decided to enjoy that party and not try to take notes, as we sorted out which, if any, wines we would take home – one of each variety the 2013 La Marea Grenache, the 2017 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, and the 2018 P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon – one of the last with the old label!
I have 7 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.These wines were all from that low key Autumn 2023 Release. As typical with Ian’s wines, they span a number of our local AVAs across 3 counties! Winery notes come from the winery’s tech sheets (thank you, Will!). Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2022 La Marea Alt-Cut’ Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $30 (#1222)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”
My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Honeysuckle on the nose. Bright acidity on the palate – a very tasty wine. November 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#1223)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This wine is bursting with bright honeydew melon and white pepper on the initial nose, evolving into savory notes of saffron and tarragon. The attack on the palate is full of juicy fruit with a prevalent creamy salinity on the back reminiscent of Salazar oysters. Soft acid builds on the front and provides a distinct glycerin mouthfeel that lingers into more of a hum of soft acidity that permeates the palate.”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Honey on the nose. Baking spices and honey on the palate. Fairly sweet. November 2023.
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Location: DeRose is a 25-year-old own rooted planting of Cabernet Franc. The DeRose Vineyard is part of the old Vaché planting and is the oldest continuously producing commercial vineyard in California. It was subsequently owned by William Palmtag and Almaden Winery, at which time it housed the largest barrel storage room in the world. Soils are a mix of lime and granite. The hill above the Cabernet Franc block is occupied by a lime mine…
“Tasting Notes: The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”
My Review: Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and black pepper on the palate. Delightful. November 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon on the nose. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with a slightly tannic finish. This will age into a nice wine. November 2023.
2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon and plum on the nose. Cherry on the palate. Tart palate with a touch of central coast funk. November 2023.
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.9% ABV, $85 (#1227)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite, and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Almost purple in the glass. Black berries on the nose. Delicious berries on the palate. Smooth on the palate. Nice tannins. Maybe a touch vegetal on the finish. Buy this wine – it has great potential. November 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#1228)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Rich dark berries on the nose with a touch of smoke or dirt – in a good way. Very dark palate. IMHO, this is his best Syrah to date – I took one home. November 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Since the I Brand & FamilyAutumn 2023 Releases have recently become available, there is no time better than now to issue this quick catch-up post. I’ve been collecting these reviews of I Brand & Family wines we have enjoyed at home over this past year. If only I had created Catch-Up Mondays earlier in the year!
I have 5 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family and P’tit Paysan.These wines were all from our home cellar and were tasted throughout 2023. 3 of these are new writeups, plus a couple we’ve had before. The wines in today’s post span a number of our local AVAs across 2 counties. This demonstrates great breadth in their continual efforts to uncover and highlight the region’s best grapes. Winery notes come from their newsletters or websites as noted. However, I seem to have a gap in my collection of tasting notes. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2020 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $30 (#1211)
Winemaker’s Notes: N/A
My Review: Beautiful golden in the glass. Honeydew and pear on the nose. Full palate of round honeydew notes on the mid palate surrounded by a slightly bitter lemon twist. Robust yet delicate. I liked this wine. July 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, (#1212)
Winemaker’s Notes found on K&L Wine Merchants: “When Honoré Escolle purchased a summer property for his family in 1878, he established one of the most desirable benches in Monterey County. Over 130 years later, three agricultural families developed the land with the intention of carrying on the propertie’s rich tradition through quality driven vinicultural practices. The Caraccioli, Nunes and Hibino families focus on delivering a distinctive expression of northern Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.”
My Review: Beautiful dusty golden in the glass. Tropical notes of white peach, lychee and pineapple on the nose. Balanced acidity and a palate of juicy, tropical flavors. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve had lately. I can always count on Ian’s Escolle Chardonnay to be nothing short of exceptional. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, $30 (#741)
Winemaker’s Notes: N/A
My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022 Lovely light orange in the glass like an orange lollipop. Nose of citrus blossom and yellow peach. Balanced acidity with peach, melon and tart notes amplified by a lingering finish. Lovely wine for a nice May afternoon patio tasting. May 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Old Vine Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, $43 (#1213)
Winemaker’s Notes from www.wine.com: “Planted in the late 1800’s this fruit is among some of the best Mouvedre plantings on the continent. This wine tantalizes the palate. Dark brambly fruits and rose petals open the nose. Black pepper and lush fruits balance subtle savory notes. Zesty tannins and light acidity on the finish.”
My Review: Pale purple in color. Plum, blackberry and eucalyptus on the nose. Thin cherry mid-palate, followed by a robust punch of tannic and slightly acidic flavors of cherry, blackberry, tobacco and pencil lead on the finish. April 2023
2014 P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#788)
Wine Enthusiast – 89 points: “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins. ” — Matt Kettmann June 2018
My Review: Inky purple in the glass. Red raspberry, plum and a touch of brown sugar on the nose. Cassis and dark berries on the palate. A slight tartness balances the jamminess of the fruit. We like this wine. July 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
We are almost caught up with our summer “Catchup Mondays” – Ranch 32 – Local Meritage Undergoes An Experiment in Aging. And this one will be really brief – because I already reviewed this wine back in 2021. But please read on…
THE STORY – AN EXPERIMENT IN AGING
Back in 2021, our daughter was served a delicious Ranch 32 Cabernet Sauvignon. When I needed an American “Claret” for a wine class, I discovered the Ranch 32 makes a Meritage. I bought it at BevMoin Carmel for $29.95 and got a second bottle for 5 cents. The first tasting in June 2021 showed a bit young, so I held onto the second bottle to see what would happen – an experiment in aging. I’d have to say my little experiment had a disappointing outcome. I guess the bottom line is to drink these wines young!
“It means everything to wine. The finest wines in the world are closely identified with the regions from where they originate. Ranch 32 is about showcasing the best wine from our estate vineyards located in select AVAs of Monterey County. It is about crafting wines of tremendous depth and character that reflect their origin. Ranch 32 is the taste of place.”
BevMo Review – 85 points: “Aromas of blackberries and dark plums with overtones of mocha and dark chocolate; well-integrated tannins lead to a long, layered finish.”
My Reviews:
June 2021: Ruby in the glass with a lovely, rich bouquet of dark fruits: plum, berry, oak and a touch of cherry. The palate was balanced, quite drinkable and fresh, with a touch of tangerine on the finish. This wine is young. It opened up into nice, round flavors over time.
September 2023: Garnet in the glass. Dark fruit and a bit of earth on the nose, following onto the palate. Grass and apple on the finish. An experiment in aging with a disappointing outcome.
I’ll be writing a “Catch-Up Monday” post for several weeks to catch up on wines from the summer. These are what I would call “Classic Decanting Monterey Posts” – about a single wine or two we opened and tried. Today I have one wine from Mission Trails Vineyard and one from Morgan Winery.
My “Sometimes Neighbors” invited me over to join their group for a BBQ after they had played a whole lot of golf together. There were a couple of Monterey County wines to try. They are members of A Taste of Monterey, where we have been able to taste wines from some of our smaller producers, including Mission Trails Vineyard. In addition, they offered us a wine from Morgan Winery.
“VECINA is coined from the Spanish word for neighbor. This is our endeavor with the property situated directly southeast of the BOND winery. The beautifully terraced volcanic soil slopes of this property reside in Oakville’s western foothills. The 11-acre site faces due east and is the recipient of cool morning sun. Vecina, which appeared with the 1999 vintage in the inaugural BOND release, is always powerful, intense and savory. Vecina’s other hallmarks are blackberry fruit, with wild forest floor and mineral associated overtones.”
This 100-point wine, with a price of $650 (!!!) per bottle, was not opened on this day. It needs to be cellared for a more appropriate occasion. I hope they will invite me to join them when they do!
“Nearly 230 years ago Franciscan friars planted wine grapes in Monterey County. Although these early vineyards are no longer around, they foretold the story of the thriving grape growing industry of today. To help them navigate from mission to mission, these early missionaries would mark their trails along the California coast with mustard seeds. The mustard plants reveal the trail traveled by those dedicated missionaries. Today, one can still follow the mustard plants along the trail that the missionaries traveled. And along the way, we see vineyards planted beside the California mission trail.
“Today, Monterey County grows over 40 different varieties of wine grapes. A large portion of these varieties are blended, and many of these grapes are sent elsewhere for processing. Rare varieties like Cabernet Franc and Refosco are seldom available to consumers as a stand-alone varietal. For years, only vintners had the pleasure to sample these fine varietal wines in an individual form. Each and every variety grown in Monterey County has something special to express with its color, aroma, and flavor. It is in the spirit of exploration and promotion of the area’s quality that proprietors Ken and Robyn Rauh created Mission Trail Vineyards.”
Monterey Quality
“Mission Trail Vineyards is dedicated to showcasing the promise that Monterey wine country has to offer. Only small lots of hand-crafted wines are produced. The grapes for these wines are selected from choice locations throughout Monterey County. Ken and Robyn believe wine should be a reflection of the true varietal character with little man-made influences. Mission Trail whites; Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc, are refreshing and vibrant. While the reds; Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Grenache, Mertiage, Syrah and Zinfandel, are fruit-forward and robust.”
“With more than thirty years’ experience, Dan Lee and the Morgan label have been synonymous with artisan, vineyard-centric wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey.
“Coming from a small town in California’s Central Valley, Dan Morgan Lee had prepared initially for the study of veterinary medicine at the University of California, Davis. It was late in his college career that he discovered enology satisfied his interest in both science and agriculture. Immediately enrolling in the graduate enology program, Dan completed his studies and was hired as winemaker at Jekel Winery in Monterey County.
“After serving his apprenticeship at Jekel, Dan moved up the road to Durney Vineyard where he continued to make Monterey wines. While making wine full-time for Durney, Dan aspired to craft his own label. It was at a meeting of the Monterey County Winegrowers Association that he shared his vision with a banker. In addition to becoming his business advisor, that banker would also become Dan’s wife.
“In 1982, Dan and Donna Lee opened the doors of Morgan Winery. Their very first Monterey Chardonnay earned a Gold Medal at the LA County Fair and a Platinum Medal from Wine & Spirits Magazine. Since then, Morgan has become one of the Central Coast’s most recognized labels, earning “Winery of the Year” honors from Wine & Spirits in 1996 and from the San Francisco Chronicle in 2003.
“Able to pick and choose fruit sources from around the state, Dan eventually turned more of his attention to the Santa Lucia Highlands and single vineyard releases. Dan and Donna invested in their belief in the Highlands with the purchase of the Double L Vineyard in 1996. Today the Double L is one of the best known vineyards in California. Dan’s leadership and expertise in the district led to his being named the first Board President of the newly formed Santa Lucia Highlands’ winegrowers association in 2005.”
THE WINES
I have just 2 wines to present to you today. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Winery Notes: “Inspired by the powerhouse wines of Tuscany’s “Super Tuscan”, this vintage of Tusca has a twist. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Carmel Valley and Sangiovese from Arroyo Seco and Syrah from Santa Lucia Highlands. These three wines, on their own, were promising, but when brought together in this blend, a very special wine resulted. The Syrah provides acidity dark fruit elements, Cabernet Sauvignon provides the backbone, the tannin structure. While the Sangiovese lends copious amounts of black cherry and cassis fruit varietal characteristics. The Sangiovese brings the brighter fruit of raspberry, wild cherry and hints of exotic spices like nutmeg and dried orange peel. The smooth tannin, silky mouth-feel and lingering finish were achieved by careful blending. Tusca is an excellent example of the beauty and balance that blending can bring to a wine. Said to go with anything from marinara to meatloaf. Also, it is great with anything off the grill. Tusca is a “go to” wine that will delight a wide range of palates.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in the glass. Sweet plum and dark, jammy fruit on the nose. Mellow and rich on the palate with smooth berries. A little tart on the finish with cinnamon stick notes. June 2023
2020 Morgan Twelve Clones Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.8% ABV, $38 (#1157)
Winery Notes: “The grapes were hand sorted in the vineyard and again at the winery before being completely destemmed. Whole berry fermentation started using native and cultured yeasts in small, open top tanks. After fermentation, the wine was transferred to 35% new French oak for nine months of aging. The 2020 Twelve Clones demonstrates the finesse typical of pinot noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Aromas of black cherry, tobacco, and espresso bean are complemented by flavors of black fruit and a hint of sweet and savory spices. Perfectly poised, this medium plus bodied wine is supported by rich tannins. A wonderful accompaniment to roasted chicken and grilled salmon, as well as almost any duck, beef, or lamb preparation.”
My Review: Medium ruby in the glass. Intense cherry on the nose. Cherry and raspberry on a heavier than typical Pinot Noir palate. A touch of smoke on the finish. Complex, delicious, but the finish reminds us this was a 2020 wildfire year. June 2023
This past July, half of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod ventured out to Massa Estate for a tasting. We were impressed how many wines on their tasting menu came from the historic Durney Vineyards! I had not been there for a tasting since they first opened as Massa. This day’s “work” was long overdue! This is the first time I have presented their wines in Decanting Monterey!
As you come into Carmel Valley Village from Highway One, Massa is the first wine tasting room on your left. It has a beautiful blue peacock sign out front and a lovely outdoor garden on the side, perfect for an event or weekend brunch. Its winery out in Cachagua sits on some of the most celebrated and legendary grapes in Monterey County’s history – the Durney Vineyards. When I teach a class about Monterey wines, I tell the story of Durney becoming Heller Estate becoming Massa Estate. Durney’s Cabernet Sauvignon was among the best produced in the region – and many of today’s Massa Estate wines are made from those very same legendary vineyards! I like to talk about the Durney legacy in my wine classes. Participants ask me if this is important – and I say “Yes!”
“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Malbec and Petit Verdot at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet.
“The vineyards are essentially dry-farmed. The roots of the vines descend deep in the loamy, sandy soil in search of the underground “Cachagua” springs. These stressed vines produce outstanding luscious fruit, which are then skillfully crafted into the extraordinary wines. The Cabernets have been described by wine reviewers as “super-rich, with lots of tannin and explosively long finishes”. In addition, the great variation in daily temperatures at the vineyard (which are sometimes 40 degrees in a twenty four hour period) helps to produce these exceptional age-worthy and full-bodied wines.
“The vineyards have been certified 100% organic since 1980s. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are used in the production of the grapes. This certification was granted after three vintages of clean farming although organic practices have been in place since the original plantings by the Durney’s in 1968. The winery itself was certified organic in 2012.
“In 1982 the Carmel Valley Appellation was approved by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol and Tobacco. Heller Estate was a pioneer in developing the viticulture in the area.
“Sculpture gardens have been added to the vineyard property and at the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. The sculptures were created by Toby Heller; an internationally known sculptor of large works. Her piece “The Dancers”, a fifteen-foot high, bronze sculpture overlooking the vineyards, inspired the Heller Estate motto “Dances on Your Palate” as well as the design for the labels.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Massa Estate. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. In general, I found their wines a tad tart for my preferences. Some, I believe, could be held, to show more down the road.
2019 Massa Estate Private Reserve Riesling, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County $29 (#1146)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Massa Estate Riesling offers jasmine blossom, ripe pineapple, and warm golden delicious apples. The palate gives quince flavors, ample acidity with light lemon curd underneath. It finishes with long lasting acidity and warm spices into lemon cream.”
My Review: Pretty, light golden in color. Apple and honeysuckle on the nose. Lemon curd, grapefruit and pineapple on the palate. A little acidic – I would like it creamier. Overall, pretty good! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Chardonnay, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1147)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Chardonnay Reserve suggests bosc pears, nectarine blossom, lightly toasted oak, a hint of creme brulee, a kiss of salty sea air, and beeswax. The palate shows golden delicious apples and light caramelized sugar. It has medium high acidity, a long lingering finish; savory with sweet French oak and candied lemon peel.”
My Review: Pale golden in color. Butter, vanilla and caramel on the nose. Strong flavors on the palate with a finish of sea salt and lemon peel. July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Rose Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1148)
Winery Notes: “Blueberry cobbler, California dry hill coastal shrubs, sun on a granitic slide. Juniper berries, fresh cranberry, and sandalwood on the palate. Lignified stems, dried fruit and lavender finish.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. Slight whiff of barnyard on the nose, followed by the bitterness of Pinot Noir and musty notes on the finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Merlot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1149)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Merlot suggests red plums, bing cherries, allspice, white pepper, and cigar box. The palate is fresh red fleshed apples with a touch of quince. This is really fresh for a merlot. The finish is with white pepper and Chinese five spice. It is light in its feet but structured in a way to support long term aging.”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Dusty leather, cherry and white pepper on the nose. Dry on the palate with a tart cherry finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1150)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon offers cassis and blackberry to greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. Pair this wine with a juicy hamburger topped with sauteed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”
MyReview: “Deep ruby in color. Dark berry jam and tarragon on the nose. Cotton candy, burnt sugar, slightly tart berries and a lot of new oak on the palate. Still too young – hold this wine! July 2023.”
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Petit Verdot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1151)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Petit Verdot offers delicate flavors of spiced plums, rich earth, beautiful dark chocolate, and dried persimmon with a finish of dried cherries and chocolate or cocoa.”
MyReview: Rich dark ruby, red plum on the glass. Warm brown sugar and hints of cherry on the nice nose. Spearmint and bay leaf overlay the dark berry palate. We were intrigued by this wine – one of my favorites of the day. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $40 (#1152)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Bordeaux offers delicate flavors of black plums, cherry compote, cigar wrapper, sweet tobacco leaves, bay laurel, black cherry and toasted coconut. It has medium acidity and finishes with quiet, robust tannins with hints of licorice and sasparilla.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color with a classic fruity nose. Rounder flavors up front, followed by a mouthwatering burst of fruit and a licorice finish. I liked this wine and took some home! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $65 (#1153)
Winery Notes: “Made from 50 year old vines planted by Bill Durney, the Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon offers delicate flavors of plums, salt water, toasted seaweed, sandalwood, and chaparral flowers! The palate is pure fruit, red cherries and French plums, with hints of baking spices and a touch of cinnamon stick underneath. It finishes with the classic mountain cabernet tannins, our lightest, freshest cabernet sauvignon.”
My Review: Garnet in color, with an interesting nose. My notes say floral, soapy, and fruit compote. a cherry bomb on the palate – like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Fruity and not very Cabernet Sauvignon-like. I wanted more from this wine made from some of the most legendary grapes in all of Monterey County. Still too young? July 2023
2017 Massa Estate Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1154)
Winery Notes: “The 2017 Syrah offers hints of blackberry, French plums, white pepper, and floral violet notes. This is a darker, more full-bodied wine that is greeted with a punch of flavor that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in the glass. Raisiny on the nose – almost port-like. The nose follows to the palate, yet very jammy. Reminiscent of a Syrah we recently tasted in Paso Robles, which we liked very much. I’d like to try this one again! July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $68 (#1155)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc offers cypress fronds, plum skin, water over rocks, sandalwood, and forest floor. Robust tannins on finish, mouthcoating really wants rich foods.”
My Review: Light ruby in color. Barnyard on the nose, followed by a light palate of bright fruits. This is another one I would like to try again. July 2023
“The Tasting Room, located in Carmel Valley Village, is a 20 minute drive from Carmel, California and offers the public the opportunity to taste the entire range of impressive award winning Massa Estate & Heller Estate wines. There is a selection of wine accessories and wine related gifts as well as an art gallery.”
69 W. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel Valley, CA 93924 Phone: 831.659.6220
Tasting Room Hours: Saturday – Sunday, 11:00am – 5:00pm “Enjoy our pet-friendly Sculpture Garden!” Current tasting menus are $15 (Classic) and $20 (Premium).
In addition to wine tasting, there are food options at the Massa Tasting Room! Local chef Michael Jones is on site preparing food! Food Hours are Saturdays: 11:00 am – 2:00 pm (appetizers) and Sundays: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm (brunch). His phone number for reservations is 831-659-5100. Please be sure to call to check his schedule and make a reservation!
by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!
THE STORY
We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June. He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately. Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer! Lesson learned: pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!
Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.
If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.
The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic.
Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations. Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time. I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.
Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year.
David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up. He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021. And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!
Sangiovese
After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room. Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed. It would encompass the Folktale property. It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.
Our mutual assessment: We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years. They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.
“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.
“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”
“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”
THE WINES
I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale, Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story: Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!
Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.
Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!
Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023
2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)
Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby. Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023
NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)
I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made. Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it: You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses. You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.
I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:
“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”
Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.
Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity. August 2023
Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.
Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.
2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023
2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann
Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023
2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)
2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines. The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023
The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
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