Imagine my surprise when LuxLife Magazine reached out to me to inform me that someone nominated Decanting Monterey for one of their Hospitality Awards. At first, I told them they had the wrong person. I told them I just write a wine blog to promote our local wineries and entertain others with my stories. I suggested some other organizations far more worthy. Then a writer friend told me I should consider doing it. So, I did. To this day, I have no idea who nominated my website, but I am glad they did. Decanting Monterey was named Best Monterey Wine Blog!
This year’s awards are quite diverse in hospitality services, from restaurants and luxury hotels all the way down to a little local wine blog like mine.
From the press release:
“…LUXlife focuses on recognising businesses which provide a diverse range of services from event and hospitality management, restaurants and bars, travel agents, public relations as well as marketing services, to tour operators. LUXlife aims to represent the best talent from this dynamic industry.” Wow – I am humbled.
“Decanting Monterey is a great place to get the real story on Monterey County wines. Central Coast Sharon shares her passion, knowledge, personal experiences, and reviews to elevate and demystify Monterey County wines. Decanting Monterey delivers wine education and wine reviews, wrapped in interesting personal stories via a weekly post. Also found on Instagram (Decanting_Monterey) and Facebook (Decanting Monterey). Nominated in 2023 & 2024 as Best Local Blog by the Monterey County Weekly.”
Have a great Thanksgiving with friends and family. And, if you aren’t a subscriber, sign up today – it is free, I don’t sell your information, so far I don’t have any ads, and is usually just one email per week.
Loyal Fans: Thanks to each and every one of you, Decanting Monterey once again was nominated for Best Local Blog of Monterey County!! We are 1 of 5 finalists for this category. I am so thankful and humbled by this nomination.
Now I ask that you take the important next step:Please vote now for Decanting Monterey, a labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines. For 4 years, I have been bringing you my personal experiences to broaden the world’s view of Monterey wines.
VOTING IS OPEN – Vote Now for Decanting Monterey!!
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Please click on the photo for “Around Town,” then search for Best Local Blog and vote now for Decanting Monterey.
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Many years ago, we stopped into the Mercy tasting room at the entrance of Carmel Valley Village. It was the winery which first introduced us to the Zabala and Griva vineyards, from which they produced exceptional whites and reds. Their tasting room portrayed photos of the rocky soils of Zabala Vineyards. I quickly became obsessed with Zabala. If I see it listed on a wine label, I know right away the wine has the potential to be fantastic.
In 2019, while our daughter was visiting from the east coast, I asked my family to jump in the car with me so I could see the rocky vineyards chock full of “Greenfield potatoes,” as the smooth river rocks are fondly called. I think they thought I was a little crazy. I was presenting Mercy wines in my east coast wine class and felt I needed to see the vineyards for myself. I had become a Zabala Vineyards groupie, especially for Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah wines made from their grapes.
Since Mercy closed, I have been on a hunt for any winery who makes a single varietal Syrah from Zabala Vineyards. I have yet to find one rivaling Mercy’s bounty, but I keep looking.
A year or so later, our friend who makes up part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod informed us me that Luis Zabala was in his biking group. He promised to introduced us…but time went on.
Fast forward to the August 2023 Arroyo Seco Winegrowers’ 40th Anniversary celebration, which I covered in two posts: Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers!and The Big Party Continues for Arroyo Seco Winegrowers! While I was there to cover the event in Decanting Monterey, the entire time I was looking for, asking about, and trying to meet Luis Zabala. A shameless groupie indeed! I got someone to point him out, texted my friend a picture to be sure, and introduced myself to him. I explained our mutual friend connection, and Luis kindly offered to have us down to the vineyard for a tour. We finally made it there in March – with our friend!
Thank you, Luis, for hosting us, humoring us, and being patient with us while we asked you all our questions. Spending that time in your vineyard with you was a very special day for Decanting Monterey – and me personally.
ABOUT ZABALA VINEYARDS – WHAT DID I LEARN
I came armed with a list of questions and Luis patiently – and with subtle humor – answered them all. Who knew he was a comedian! I am going to intersperse what I learned with the official history and other information on their website, which I would encourage you to read in full – so much richness of Californian history in this property and family. The text in quotes comes directly from their website:
Originally of Spanish Basque heritage, his family came up to what is now the Central Coast of California in the 1840’s and 50’s from Valparaiso, Chile.
“In earlier days, our forefathers defended the states’ historic missions of what would become California, and in return were granted various tracts of land in the Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. While the specifics of those plots have evolved over the last two centuries, our family has retained over 2,500 acres of this land between the coastal counties today.”
Luis showed us a map of his property and the vineyards. While most of the area was farmland, the big swath where the vineyards are today was “marginal land” – not suitable for farming.
“Our ancestors have been farming the land for over a century. However, it was not until the early 1970’s that J. Luis Zabala was approached by investors from the community to plant the Zabala holdings with wine grapes. The site proved to be ideal for growing Chardonnay, as the demand for quality Californian wines quickly expanded.”
So, how did Luis get involved? Intending to work in a different field, he got his MBA in finance and worked in technology up in Seattle – until the situation at the vineyard dictated that he needed to return. He’s now been in the business for 30 years. And his daughter, Leslie, has joined him in the business.
“Since the seventies, the vineyard has continued to expand. In the 1980’s, Luis Zabala Sr. passed ownership of the land to his five children, who continue his legacy by growing premium wine grapes in the family name. Zabala Vineyards now holds over one thousand acres of Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir in one of California’s most unique viticultural regions, and contributes to the highest premium vineyard-designate wine bottlings from the Central Coast.”
Luis added the following beyond their current webpage:
“The success of Zabala Vineyards really is a Team effort. Namely, Jason Melvin providing the wisdom of his years of experience as Vineyard Manager, my wife Joni Zabala, as the guiding light and sounding board behind the success of the vineyard, and Leslie Zabala, representing the next generation who is vitally interested in carrying on the family legacy.”
I love that!
One of our first questions was how many acres was his vineyard. He quipped, “It’s only one, but it is really narrow.” Funny guy. Then he answered us seriously. Today he has about 800 acres planted, growing a number of varieties, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Graciano, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, and Syrah. I hope I got them all! As we approached Zabala Vineyardsfrom the north, we noticed acres and acres of uprooted vines. My first question was about those vines. The vines are about 30 years old, so they have begun the process to rip out (and I hope replant) those older vines.
The fruit from his vines makes incredible wine. I asked him what makes his fruit so special? He had a very simple response: “It is the struggle.” The vines must struggle through the rocky soil to get to the water and nutrients while enduring the frigid, windy nights. As Mercy’s website used to say, the Arroyo Seco AVA is “windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful.”
I love to present Zabala Sauvignon Blanc wines in my classes from various producers, such as Corral Wine Co. and I Brand’s Paysan label. The wines are floral and tropical with a nice minerality on the finish. I am presenting the 2022 vintage from Corral in my upcoming wine class.
I am forever seeking a Syrah made from Zabala grapes that can match the flavor of the Mercy wine. Luis showed me a shelf of bottles of Zabala Vineyard Syrah and suggested I check out I Brand, Corral Wine Co., Lepe Cellars, Morgan, and Field Recordings (in Paso Robles). Of those, I know that Lepe Cellars and Field Recordings bottle Zabala Syrah as a single varietal.
We toured his property to see the Syrah vines up close, including some new vines just being planted. We got a good look at the large, smooth “Greenfield potatoes.” He also provided a lesson about irrigation and the use of bilateral cordon and unilateral cordon with cane grape trellising to achieve a “balanced vineyard.” Made sense, but he knew we had no idea what he was talking about.
We asked Luis what he thought of the 2023 vintage. He finished harvest in mid-November and was happy with the ripening, despite there not being a hot day all summer. We asked how much fruit he produced and he pulled our legs responding that “one ton gets a good price.” He harvests several thousands of tons of grapes, either by machine or by hand, depending on the customer’s request. And the wineries decide when their fruit gets picked.
I had asked him earlier in the day if he ever intended to produce his own wines for sale to the public. His response was that it is a different business model, with a heavy focus on sales and lots of time on the road. He is content running the operations of this large vineyard. We wrapped up our tour visiting the small trailer that contains his “winery” with his little label “machine” and a few barrels. Charming. Definitely not a set-up for large production!
As we ended our tour, he generously handed us bottles of his own Syrah which he makes for family and friends. Thank you, Luis, for sharing your time, your world, your expertise, your vines, your humor and your wine with us. It was a perfect afternoon which we will not forget.
THE WINE
2019 Zabala Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1320)
My Review: Hint of tar, opening up into full-on blackberry jam and pipe tobacco. The medium-bodied palate was dominated by blackberry fruit, with a distinct cherry on the finish. Opened up to present as a rich, full-bodied wine on day 2, with a tannic finish.The fruit is quite delicious on this wine. April 2024
We opened a 2018 Odonata Spiketail in mid-December as we were ramping up for the holidays. Today’s short and sweet post includes reviews from two vintages of the same wine!
Winery Notes: “Offering copious aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, strawberries, licorice and roasted herbs. Bright acidity, beautiful density, and full-bodied opulence.” 120 cases produced.
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Dark berry jam on the nose. Low key palate of jammy berry flavors – this is one delicious wine. June 202
My Review: We bought this on a whim without tasting it. Purple in color. Plum, orange rind, chalk, bubblegum and hot cocoa on the nose. Orange rind and chocolate on the dense jam of the chalky palate. Licorice and smoke on the finish. After it opened up, cinnamon was predominant on the finish. One of the most interesting wines I have enjoyed this year. August 2023
“Nestled at the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and at the beginning of the River Road wine trail lies the Odonata Winery and Tasting Room. We hope you will stop by to sample a selection of our current releases!
Located at 645 River Road, Salinas, CA 93908 (tel: 831-566-5147)
Open 7 days a week (except major holidays) from 11 am to 5 pm. Open for Happy Hour on Fridays & Saturdays from 5-7 pm. No appointments are necessary for groups of 8 or fewer.
We are almost caught up with our summer “Catchup Mondays” – Ranch 32 – Local Meritage Undergoes An Experiment in Aging. And this one will be really brief – because I already reviewed this wine back in 2021. But please read on…
THE STORY – AN EXPERIMENT IN AGING
Back in 2021, our daughter was served a delicious Ranch 32 Cabernet Sauvignon. When I needed an American “Claret” for a wine class, I discovered the Ranch 32 makes a Meritage. I bought it at BevMoin Carmel for $29.95 and got a second bottle for 5 cents. The first tasting in June 2021 showed a bit young, so I held onto the second bottle to see what would happen – an experiment in aging. I’d have to say my little experiment had a disappointing outcome. I guess the bottom line is to drink these wines young!
“It means everything to wine. The finest wines in the world are closely identified with the regions from where they originate. Ranch 32 is about showcasing the best wine from our estate vineyards located in select AVAs of Monterey County. It is about crafting wines of tremendous depth and character that reflect their origin. Ranch 32 is the taste of place.”
BevMo Review – 85 points: “Aromas of blackberries and dark plums with overtones of mocha and dark chocolate; well-integrated tannins lead to a long, layered finish.”
My Reviews:
June 2021: Ruby in the glass with a lovely, rich bouquet of dark fruits: plum, berry, oak and a touch of cherry. The palate was balanced, quite drinkable and fresh, with a touch of tangerine on the finish. This wine is young. It opened up into nice, round flavors over time.
September 2023: Garnet in the glass. Dark fruit and a bit of earth on the nose, following onto the palate. Grass and apple on the finish. An experiment in aging with a disappointing outcome.
Today I am bringing you another summer “Catchup Monday” – Let’s Take Lunch to a New Level with L’Aventure.
THE STORY
After our wonderful vineyard tour at Parsonagein late July, we stopped for a much-needed lunch at Café Rusticain Carmel Valley Village. After declaring I don’t drink wine at lunch (I’m usually designated driver anyway), my husband decided to “take lunch to a new level” by ordering a very special wine – the 2020 L’Aventure Optimus. It was the perfect accompaniment to our group’s lunch. I previously wrote about L’Aventure in March here.
“Following his education at L’Ecole Oenologique de Macon, Burgundy, France, Stephan established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux in 1982. Over the next 15 years, Stephan developed into an artisan winemaker of fastidious craftsmanship and gained a reputation as a maverick vigneron. However, his true desire was to be more innovative than AOC law would allow.
THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
“Stephan wanted to expand his expertise while gaining more freedom in viticulture and vinification. In 1998, the Asseo family left Bordeaux and searched for over a year within the world’s great wine regions, ranging from South Africa to Lebanon, Argentina to Napa, but they “fell in love” with the unique terroir of west side Paso Robles. L’Aventure was born.
THE SPIRIT OF L’AVENTURE
“Stephan’s philosophy of winemaking stems from a production driven mentality. Our wines reflect the vintage and terroir of Paso Robles. Optimus and Estate Cuvée are both wines that are Syrah/ Cabernet Sauvignon/ Petit Verdot blends. In these wines, as well as in our Rhône blend Côte à Côte (among others), the blending of premium varietals increases the authenticity, complexity, and balance of the wines…”
I have just one wine to present to you today from L’Aventure. Winery notes come from their website and from www.wine.com. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2020 L’Aventure OPTIMUS Red Blend, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles AVA, 14.8% ABV, $58 (#1199) 58% Syrah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot
From wine.com: “The Optimus blend is made up of predominately Syrah, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot and entirely estate-grown fruit from L’Aventure Vineyard. The hilly soils are intriguingly complex- due to their proximity to the ocean as the vineyard site is in West Paso Robles. The soils have a top layer of calcareous shale, filled with old marine bones, shells, diatoms, and plankton, with clay, metals, and quartz below. These vines Low yielding vines at 2.5 tons per acre. After a long growing season, thanks to the region’s heavy diurnal shift, the grapes, and harvested and undergo alcoholic fermentation in 60% new French oak, followed by full malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 14 months in barrel, no fining or filtration.” 95 points – Rober Parker’s The Wine Advocate
Winery Notes: “Optimus is the perfect introduction to our lineup. Also known as our “crazy” Paso blend, Optimus is beautifully balanced with a lot of freshness. This wine is approachable young but can be enjoyed for up to a decade.”
My Review: OK, you caught me. We simply enjoyed this wine with our meal and didn’t take any notes. My notes from the 2016 are here: “Inky in color. Dusty jam and leather on the nose – like a really big red wine. Dark berry jam of ripe fruit, rich and sweet (in a good way). Cedar, mint and tarragon notes on the finish.”
THE TASTING ROOM
Visit L’Aventure: “Take in views of our vineyard from our fully covered patio as you taste through the flagship wines of our latest release from Winemaker, Stephan Asseo. Tastings are conducted by appointment only, allowing us to create personal relationships with our guests as your Estate Educator guides you through a flight of four wines.” Other options available.
Today I am bringing you another “Catchup Monday” – Odonata: The Truth About Durif. Still getting caught up from my busy summer – but this is an interesting wine and worth your time to read this post!
THE STORY
We last visited Odonata in March 2022 and captured our experience here: Odonata Plays “Mystery Wine” with Decanting Monterey! During that tasting, we became intrigued by a varietal that we did not know or even taste – the Durif. I recalled being told at the time that it was like a South African Petite Sirah. But the facts say more. I was delighted that we finally opened this wine in August, giving us the chance today to dive deep into the Durif grape. Read on!
“Winemaker Denis Hoey released his first commercial vintage when he was 21. He now blends old world methods with new world technique to make nouveau-style wines. He strives to produce wines that are rich, textured, and balanced, and that respect terroir and varietal character. His success is based on careful attention to detail and the purposeful use of each step in winemaking: grape sources, fermentation technique, pressing regiment, barrel selection, and aging program. The result is clean, focused wines.
“Hoey, a native of Sacramento, grew up in a family that appreciated wines and exposed him to a wide range of quality wines that helped develop his palate. In 2004, he graduated from the University of California, Santa Cruz with a degree in Business Management. Soon after that, he met Jeff Emery, owner and winemaker at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. Their relationship quickly turned into an Old World apprenticeship for Denis, and he became the production manager for SCMV before starting Odonata Wines in Santa Cruz in 2005.
“Hoey learned many of his cellar practices at Bison Organic Brewery in Berkeley working with a much more perishable product. This taught him the importance of giving careful attention to spoilage organisms. His continuing education involves following current trends in winemaking research from the major universities. He has traveled to Italy and France on several occasions to gain a broader perspective about European winemaking techniques and varietal fidelity. He maintains a sharp palate for quality and the nuances of wines by tasting, tasting, and more tasting. He continues to challenge himself to make better wine by learning from what others are doing well–or not so well!
“In 2014, Hoey and his wife, Claire, moved to the Santa Lucia Highlands where they are raising their family and running Odonata Winery. Their property includes a 2-acre vineyard, production facility, tasting room, and a welcoming patio where visitors can enjoy their unique wine.”
ABOUT DURIF:
From the bottle:
“What is Durif? This French varietal is a cross between Peloursin and Syrah. When brought to America, it was renamed Petite Sirah, but DNA testing has confirmed that it is, in fact, the original French Durif.”
“”Petite Sirah” is the name Americans call the Durif grape. There are actually two different spellings of the variety—Petite Sirah, which is mostly widely used, and Petite Syrah, which is a bit of a throwback version, and unfortunately complicates the perception of Petite Sirah and Syrah being the same grape.
“Durif has a strange history. In the 1880s, French botanist François Durif crossed the Syrah and Peloursin grapes—some suspect by accident—to create Durif. But despite its origins being in France, it never really took off there—it’s practically nonexistent in the country today. But it thrived in California, where it has a strong following, and later it spread modestly to other parts of the world.” —Dr. Vinny
“The Petite Sirah grape is the offspring of two French grapes – Syrah and Peloursin. Both of the parent varietals come from the Rhone-Alpes region, while Petite Sirah originated further south near Tullins in southeastern France.
“In France and elsewhere outside of the United States, Petite Sirah is known as Durif. This name comes from Francois Durif, the French botanist in whose nursery the varietal originated in the 1860s.
“This varietal has been in California since 1884, when Charles McIver introduced it to his vineyards in the San Jose/Alameda County area. It waxed and waned over the years, falling out of favor in certain areas but holding true in places like Napa Valley and Livermore AVA.
“Other than California, there are a few wineries in Israel and Australia with Petite Sirah vineyards. But while it may have originated in France, modern Petite Sirah production in France is almost nonexistent.”
So, bottom line: Durif is what we in the US call Petite Sirah, a cross of Syrah and Peloursin grapes. The rest of the world calls it Durif.
THE WINE
I have just one wine to present to you today from Odonata. Winery notes come from the bottle.Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2016 Odonata Durif, Machado Creek Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley, Santa Clara County, 14.2%, $42 ABV (#1188)
Winery Notes: “The heavy soil structure of the vineyard backs the vibrant fruit with chewy tannins. Rose petals and smoky, candied fruit are dominant fixtures in the aromatics. In your mouth, blackberries, spices, and a luscious texture blend to create a powerful punch of flavor. This wine can be enjoyed with rich or spicy pastas, pork and all red meats.”
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Sour black plum, purple flowers and licorice spice show on the nose of this bottling. More purple-flower flavors emerge on the sip, where the black-plum component rides a relatively lighter frame.” Matt Kettmann, October 2020
My Review: We bought this on a whim without tasting it. Purple in color. Plum, orange rind m, chalk, bubblegum and hot cocoa on the nose. Orange rind and chocolate on the dense jam of the chalky palate. Licorice and smoke on the finish. After it opened up, cinnamon was predominant on the finish. One of the most interesting wines I have enjoyed this year. August 2023
“Nestled at the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and at the beginning of the River Road wine trail lies the Odonata Winery and Tasting Room. We hope you will stop by to sample a selection of our current releases!
Located at 645 River Road, Salinas, CA 93908 (tel: 831-566-5147)
Open 7 days a week (except major holidays) from 11 am to 5 pm. Open for Happy Hour on Fridays & Saturdays from 5-7 pm. No appointments are necessary for groups of 8 or fewer.
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