Tagged: Paicines AVA

Puma Road: Paicines Done Big!

In March 2019, our daughter came to visit us from NYC.  The girl loves a road trip and I needed to do “research” for one of my wine classes.  We drove a long way down the beautiful Salinas Valley on Highway 101 to Soledad and worked our way back up the valley and stopped at half a dozen tasting rooms along the way.  One of the last wineries we stopped at was Puma Road.  This place was jumping with a party atmosphere and big bold reds just the way I like them.

The River Road Tasting Room – a happening place!

From Puma Road’s About Us page: “The Franscioni family has worked the Salinas Valley soil for four generations. In the early 1890s, Silvio Franscioni Sr. settled a ranch outside of Gonzales with his beloved wife Maria and their children. What began as a dairy operation developed into a row crop farm. The owner of Puma Road winery, Ray Franscioni–Silvio’s grandson, is keeping the farming tradition vibrant and alive. His business ambitions reached beyond raising dairy cows and farming lettuce. While growing 6,000 acres of row crops, he decided to embark on a vineyard operation in the early 1990s.

“For more than 20 years, Franscioni has been a prominent grape-grower in the Monterey County region. His operation has evolved into growing 2,000 acres of vines while continuing the family row crop business. About half of the grape yield is grown in the Santa Lucia Highlands; the other portion grows in the Paicines AVA.

“About a decade after becoming grape growers, the Franscioni’s decided to craft wine themselves. The family produced their first vintage in 2003 under the label RF Wines. More than a decade later, Puma Road Winery now produces 4,500 cases per year. They proudly continue to grow 15 varietals. The winery is a thriving, local-based establishment that strongly reflects the Santa Lucia Highlands as well as the Paicines AVA. The earthy flavors and rich minerality of the soils create the unique wines one can only experience at Puma Road down the River Road Wine Trail.”

Paicines is just east of Monterey County in San Benito County and on the way to Pinnacles National Park.  Rolling hills of nothing but vineyards from an area which used to be a bulk growing region for Almaden now turned into higher end wines.  See my introduction here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/where-the-heck-is-paicines-and-why-should-you-care/.

From Puma Road’s Vineyard page: “Puma Road grows nearly 1,000 acres of vines in the Paicines AVA. Our estate Pedregal de Paicines Vineyard is the perfect environment for our renowned Bordeaux varietals. The soils and climate of this area are similar to certain areas of the Mediterranian (sic): mineral-rich and generally semi-arid. The dry heat of Paicines creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality from the abundance of quartz in the soil.” 

2013 Puma Road Tannat, Pedregal de Paicines Vineyard, Paicines AVA, 15.1% ABV, $40 (#18*)

Puma Road’s 2013 Tannat can convert even a non-Tannat fan!

From the Puma Road Red Wines website: “Only around 300 acres of Tannat are grown in California. Traditionally, Tannat is used as a blending grape, to add body and deep color to other varietals. Puma Road Tannat stands on its own. Our 2013 Tannat has a nose of deep, dark fruit; warm, rich spice; and earthy leather. On the palate, experience dark cherry and plum, with notes of leather, oak and spice, and a smooth finish with just the right amount of tannin.” 

My Review: I found this wine to be deep cherry colored with very smooth tannins, dark cherry and a touch of cedar on the palate with a lingering berry aftertaste.  This was a delightful, delicious wine.

2013 Puma Road Cabernet Franc Pedregal Vineyard, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 15.9% ABV, $35 (#99*)

Puma Road makes their Cabernet Franc in a delicious and big, Bordeaux style.

I needed a Cabernet Franc for a wine class in July – had just consumed the Boëté, so preferred to open something else.  I ended up drinking the Puma Road but talking about both wines at class.  I have a history with this 2013 Puma Road Cabernet Franc Pedregal Vineyard – I presented it at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar on Paicines AVA wines – it was a big hit! 

The 2013 Cabernet Franc spent 30 months in French oak. Nose of pencil shavings, pepper, leather and cloves. The mouth begins with rich dark cherry and cedar, followed by hints of licorice, and a caramel finish.  (Fairly certain this originally came from their web page.) This very high alcohol wine is big and juicy, enjoyed by all on Cassandra’s last night with us.

The 2014 is the current release:  The 2014 Cabernet Franc has a “nose of dark fruit, leather, and clove. The mouth begins with the flavor of dark cherry, followed by a hint of licorice, with bright acidity throughout, and a rich finish” at a much lower 14.2% ABV. Will have to order that one…

2013 Puma Road Cache, Pedregal Vineyard, Paicines AVA, 15.7% ABV, $40, sale $20 (#29*) 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 17% Cabernet Franc

The 2013 Cache is a delicious Cabernet-driven red blend.

From my 2019 WWCS class notes (I don’t recall the source – probably the winery): “This wine was aged 30 months in French oak. Aromas of dark fruit, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. A rich mouth feel, with flavors of cedar, vanilla, and dark red fruit, with nice acidity. This wine pairs extraordinarily well with char-grilled meats, like a juicy ribeye steak, or a ground chuck burger.”  The 2014 is the current release, also found at the current release link above.

My Review: Ruby red with deep plum and a bit of tannin on the nose.  Very smooth and dry on the palate with soft tannins.  The fruit shines through with white and green pepper notes.

Visiting Puma Road: “Reservations will be required. For our River Road Winery & Tasting Room, please call 831-675-3548 or email info@pumaroad.com. For our Monterey Portola Plaza Tasting Room, please call 831-747-1911 or email portola@pumaroad.com.”

At this time, they are offering $10 flat rate UPS ground shipping on all shipping orders of $50 or more, as well as complimentary local delivery for orders of $40 or more to many parts of Monterey County. Check out their specials!

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Where the Heck Is Paicines and Why Should You Care?

There I was, happily enjoying getting to know well my Monterey County wines when an interloper started showing up on the labels in “my” tasting rooms – Paicines.  “Where the heck is Paicines?” and “How do you pronounce that?” were my early questions.  First, I saw it on the label of one of Ian Brand’s wines.  Then I saw it in Pessagno and Puma Road tasting rooms in Salinas Valley.  In April 2019, I took a hiking trip to the Pinnacles National Park and we drove through acre after acre of grape vines.  I knew then that something was up – I had to find out.  I challenged myself to create a class of exceptional wines from Paicines.  This wasn’t easy, as there really aren’t that many wineries which call out Paicines specifically on their labels.  But I pulled it off and presented 5 delicious wines to the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar in the Fall of 2019 – eh…during the Nationals’ final playoff game.  Lesson learned.

Some of the Paicines-designated wines from my wine room.

Paicines AVA – A Prelude

The Paicines AVA is a sub-AVA in San Benito County about 10 miles from Hollister, about an hour south of San Jose and just east of Monterey County.  Today it is rolling vineyards.  What else is there?  It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, so not much.  The quaint town of Paicines, population 204, and the tiny town of Tres Pinos (population 500).  If you blink, you will miss them.  And I learned it is pronounced “Pie-See-Ness.” 

I did a lot of research on Paicines back in 2019.  Much of this information likely came originally from Donati Family Vineyards website, but their website has changed, so I cannot properly source it.  I still give credit to Donati for the information!

Once known as a hideout for bandit Tiburcio Vásquez and later a bulk brand growing region by Almaden and others, Paicines is now being reclaimed – this time as a high-end grape growing region.  The Paicines AVA covers an area inside a valley, separated from Monterey by the Galiban Mountain range, which is home to the Chalone AVA further south. It is about 17 miles north of Pinnacles National Monument and Park and consists of about 4,500 acres of grape-growing area.

Paicines is in the southeastern corner of the map above (courtesy of Geology Cafe link below)

Warm daytime temperatures and afternoon, cooling breezes that comes in off the ocean, across the Salinas Valley, allowing grapes to mature more slowly, resulting in wines of great character, balance and complexity. Elevation ranges from 500-1,200 feet above sea level and it gets about 12-15 inches of rain annually.

Predominantly sandy soils with gravel and limestone provide good drainage, and deep root systems to access the water in the ground. Combined, the dry heat and the abundance of quartz in the soil creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality.

My next few blog posts will be wines specifically from the Paicines AVA, before I move on to Cienega Valley and the greater San Benito County.

There is a cool (albeit somewhat dated) “San Andreas Fault in the Cienega Valley Wine Tour Route in San Benito County, California” article and map by the Geology Café here:  https://geologycafe.com/fieldtrips/cienega_valley.html.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage: Onward to Monterey County and Beyond!

I first introduced you to Parsonage and its reserve wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/ and its non-reserve estate wines here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-back-to-the-estate-with-2017-releases/

Now we are going to get outside of Parsonage’s sweet spots of Carmel Valley and Arroyo Seco AVAs by presenting wines labeled “Monterey County” – and even “Central Coast”!  This post represents the beginning of our transition outside of Monterey County wines and into San Benito County, specifically to Paicines, which I will describe more in the next blog. 

I have 3 red blends for you today.  Sadly, two of them are already sold out – we will need to wait for the next vintage to be released! 

2017 Parsonage The Aussie Red Wine, 15% ABV, $38 (#15*) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Syrah

2017 The Aussie was so delicious, I had to go back and buy more.

From the Winemaker: “Our popular, magical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. We like to pair it with rack of lamb or duck. This is a big red wine.”

My Review: Blueberry, blackberry and earthy, with silky-smooth yet full tannins.  An elegantly balanced extended finish.  This wine is my kind of wine – I went back and picked up more!  Now it appears to be sold out.  April 2020

2017 Parsonage Wild Card Red Wine, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $38 (#85*)

“The Wild Card is a Complexity Bomb.”

From the Winemaker: “This is the tenth iteration of Frank’s wild and crazy idea to make an experimental blend from all of the varietals in our barrels. Forgive my failure to curb my enthusiasm but this 2017 Wild Card red wine is the best one yet!

“Each and every vintage has been fascinating and delicious, but 2017 wins by a landslide. This is the biggest, richest, most fascinating of all of them. As full-bodied as it is, it is still elegantly balanced. The Wild Card is a complexity bomb. Those six components of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, and Pinot Noir have fused in synergistic harmony to create some serious magic…

“The nose opens with a burst of floral and spice notes, star anise prominent, followed by hints of the full spectrum of red, blue, and black fruit and berries. The mouthfeel is full of texture with fine, ripe, silky tannins. All of the fruit reappears on the palate including red currant, pomegranate, raspberry, cherry, blueberry, and blackberry.

“By patient, vigilant mindfulness I can identify the constituent varietals one by one. Merlot with its foundation of cherry and red currant, Cabernet Sauvignon by its cassis and tannic backbone, Syrah from its savory hint of umami, Petit Verdot with its blueberry and drier finishing tannins, Grenache for its floral and spice notes, and finally, Pinot Noir for its bing cherry, cola and subtle Earl Grey black tea notes.”

My Review:  We tasted this wine along with all of the current releases back in June. We found this mélange of both Rhône and Bordeaux varietals to be refreshing.  With so many different grapes and flavors, we, however, couldn’t align it to distinct flavors as well as Parsonage could.  I was able to re-taste this wine with a friend in October.  Ruby in color, raspberry and currant on the nose, cherry and currant on the palate with a nice, lingering finish.  My friend enjoyed it so much she took two bottles home!

2017 Parsonage The BDL, Central Coast, 15% ABV, $42 (#173*)

The BDL sold out quickly – by fans who remembered its predecessor!

Winemaker’s Notes: “BDL is shorthand for Bordelais, a wildly popular (but illegally named) wine we produced years ago. This exquisite Bordeaux blend is 52 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 percent Merlot, and 8 percent each Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cab Franc. It has all the bells and whistles Bordeaux lovers expect from an elegantly balanced and much more expensive bottle that crosses the Atlantic to get here.” (This wine has some juice from Paicines AVA – I’m guessing the Malbec.) This wine sold out very quickly.

My Review: Very dense dark red in color.  Bodacious dark nose – sweet dark cherry and caramel.  Rich dark fruit on the palate, with some sweeter bright cherry fruit on the finish, bordering on a port-like finish.  Slightly vegetal with a little leather.  August 2020

You can obtain the Wild Card and other Parsonage wines directly from the winery here and pick them up at the tasting room or have them shipped to you.  Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5  and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.

The Parsonage wine tasting parklet is spacious and the staff, very attentive to CDC protocols.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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