Tagged: Pinot Gris

Hahn: Stellar Location for the Monterey AWS WinedUP Friday!

A few months back, they asked me to find a tasting room for their November WinedUP Friday. I suggested Hahn, as there was a desire to get back to Carmel-By-The-Sea.  I have a relationship through my wine education efforts with the staff at Hahn, yet arranging this event took some convincing.  I was able to work this out with Hahn’s Coby Shammas, who has worked with me in the past, helping me identify some Hahn wines for my classes and arranging a tasting for Decanting Monterey last February, which is posted here: https://decantingmonterey.com/hahn-rolls-out-the-red-carpet-for-decanting-monterey/.

I was recently asked by the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society if I would be willing to serve as an advisor to their board.  I had to feel out what level of commitment this meant – maybe a meeting a month – and to keep doing what I am doing for them.  Which means occasionally using my contacts to find them a venue for their WinedUP Fridays – both an educational and social event. I said ok, and am now officially a Monterey AWS Board Advisor!  It is one small recognition that this blog has some meaning to someone.  If you like what I am writing about, please feel free to comment or “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed! Also always looking for recommendations, although I have yet to run out of material!

OK, back to our event…The Hahn tasting room is a stellar event location.  Nicely decorated with ample indoor and outdoor seating, it easily accommodated our group of about 20 people! The tasting menu that day was perfect, with 2 higher-end Lucienne label wines available for us. Extra hands were on staff to help pour and answer our many questions.  Coby and the other wine presenters did a great job of ensuring we were able to taste all the wines. My final task was to ensure we were all out the door by 6:15 – we made it – with some prodding! I’d call the event a success!

I am presenting 7 Hahn wines today.  Our one common comment on the wines is that Hahn loves its toasty oak.  If you are also a fan, this is the winery for you! Winery vintage and tasting notes come from their website. I encourage you to read more about Hahn here: https://decantingmonterey.com/hahn-inspired-by-the-rhone-blends-of-southern-france/ and on their website.

2017 Hahn Winery Selection Blanc de Noir Brut , Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 11.5% ABV, $50 (#864) 100% Pinot Noir

Vintage Notes: “Our Blanc de Noir, meaning “white of red”, is made of 100% Pinot Noir grapes from our certified sustainable Smith Vineyard. The fruit was harvested by hand in mid-August when sugars were low and acid was beautiful. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures, allowing the wines bright fruit aromas to shine.” 150 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of red cherry, raspberry, cantaloupe and toasted brioche, complemented by hints of apricot and orange zest. Flavors of grapefruit, pear, white peach and toasted bread lead into a long and graceful finish.”

My Review:  Very slight color – a touch dusty pink.  Very dry and crisp, with apple flavors. Kind of like a sophisticated, adult sparkling apple cider – an adult Martinelli’s! November 2022

2021 Hahn Estate Grown Pinot Gris, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $28 (#865)

Vintage Notes: “The winter rainfall was slightly below average, but we were able to compensate with early spring irrigation to fill soil profiles before budbreak. Warm spring temperatures aided vine growth and they were able to reach max canopy height. Summer temperatures heated up and slowed down vine growth as vines transitioned into fruit development. Weather leading into harvest was relatively cool and uneventful, which allowed for gradual ripening of the fruit. It was another remarkable growing season in the Santa Lucia Highlands, resulting in wines with beautiful color, great structure and naturally balanced acidity.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “This elegant wine presents with expressive and complex aromatics of citrus peel, lemon, pineapple and nectarine. Bright flavors of tropical fruit, lemon zest and hints of pear and melon mingle on the mid-palate, rounding out medium-bodied mouthfeel with refreshing acidity and a clean, mineral finish.”

My Review:  Extremely pale in the glass, almost like water. Honeysuckle on the noce and palate.  Pear flavors, with lemon/lime on the finish. November 2022

2018 Hahn Lucienne Lone Oak Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $50 (#866)

Vintage Notes: “Aromas of white melon and ripe citrus are accented with notes of banana and spiced vanilla. Medium-bodied, refined and elegant on the palate, the wine displays flavors of lemon citrus and nectarine, highlighted by vibrant notes of minerality on a medium acidic finish.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of red and black cherries, red currant, and strawberry with notes of violet and rose petals. On the palate, layers of red fruit and fresh berries, rhubarb pie with a touch of warm spices complemented by vanilla notes and integrated oak on a long delicate finish.” 93 points – Vinous

My Review:  Pale golden and viscous in the glass.  Buttered toast on the nose. Crisp, slightly burnt caramel on the palate with lemon curd, coconut, and brioche notes. The oak on this wine is out of balance – all secondary.  If you love a buttery Chardonnay, you will love this wine. November 2022

2019 Hahn Lucienne Smith Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $60 (#867)

Vintage Notes: “Curving along the ridges and valleys of the Santa Lucia Highlands, the Smith Vineyard is Hahn’s highest elevation vineyard, reaching 590 to 1,280 feet above sea level. Originally planted in 1974, Smith is also Hahn’s first estate vineyard, and today its 131 acres are certified sustainable. With rocky well-drained soils and eastern exposures that sit well above the fog line, this is a cool climate site with moderate wind and ample sunshine that contributes to a long growing season.” 1300 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Fragrant aromas of black cherry, red plum, black tea and notes of mint and forest floor. On the palate, flavors of red cherry, black currant and a hint of clove are supported by intriguing layered round tannins, lush mouthfeel and balanced acidity.” 93 points -Vinous.

My Review:  Nice transluscent ruby in the glass, swirls purple. Cherry, subtle berry, very drinkable. Tasty and juicy. The Lucienne is a respectable SLH Pinot Noir. Pick one up if you can! November 2022

2018 Hahn Winery Selection Merlot, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.5% ABV, $30 (#868)

Vintage Notes: “The vintage presented us with half the average rainfall, therefore, irrigation was supplemented in January and February so the vines would awaken to a full soil moisture profile. March gave us our last winter storm and by the end of the month, all blocks had signs of bud break. The early Spring weather was cooler than normal, with periods where the marine layer would leave heavy dew on the leaves and flowers. Summer was followed by mellow temperatures, allowing the fruit to mature and slowly develop complex flavors, color, and depth, resulting in wines with balanced tannic structure, round mouthfeel and soft acidity.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of black cherry and plum, with hints of vanilla and cocoa. Flavors of dark berry, sweet spice, and mocha greet the palate with a luscious mouthfeel, balanced acidity and a smooth finish.”

My Review:  Beautiful ruby in the glass.  Black plum and black cherry with a little baking spice on the nose. Black fruit and spices continue on the palate, smooth and tasty. A little thin, perhaps typical for the varietal. Interesting to find a Merlot from Arroyo Seco! November 2022

2018 Hahn Winery Selection Zinfandel, Lodi AVA, 14.5% ABV, $35 (#869)

Vintage Notes: “The fruit for this Winery Selection Zinfandel is sustainably grown by the Mettler family, our growing partner of more than 20 years that has been farming Zinfandel since the late 1800s. Their vines are over 50 years old and certified sustainable under the highly respected Lodi Rules for Sustainable Farming program. In 2018, these vineyards had a mild early growing season which led to full canopies and good separation of the berries during veraison. Temperatures post veraison were slightly above the usual levels but still allowed for the perfect ripening of the fruit, leading to concentrated flavor and color development.”

Winery Notes:  “Aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and plum with delicate notes of raisins and warm spices. Lush and full-bodied on the palate, the wine bursts with flavors of black fruit and berry accompanied by a touch of vanilla and toasty oak on the finish.”

My Review:  Almost purple in the glass. Toasted marshmallow nose. Rich, dark berries wrapped in tobacco and toast, with anise notes on the finish and a touch of mint. November 2022

2019 Smith & Hook Malbec, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $40 (#870)

Vintage Notes: “The 2019 vintage started out with below-average rainfall causing supplemental irrigations to be applied while the vines started to awaken. There were a few heatwaves getting close to 100 degrees, but the vines bounced back from the stress with no issues. The farthest south of Hahn’s four SLH vineyards, the Hook vineyard is the least affected by the cooling influence of winds from Monterey Bay. Warmer temperatures earlier in the afternoon and consistent sun exposure accelerate ripening and yield rich, opulent flavors.”

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Aromas of loganberry and allspice are followed by hints of lavender, violet, and spring blossom. On the palate, notes of dark fruit with a kiss of olive and minerality, finishing with a touch of toasty cedar and espresso with a long, complex finish.”

My Review:  Dark, inky ruby in color. Toasty caramel and dark fruit on the nose.  A rich delicious palate of dark fruit – perhaos my favorite wine of the evening. I took one of these home! November 2022

Visiting Hahn: Hahn Tasting Rooms are located a their estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands, as well as in Carmel Plaza.  You can find more information and make a reservation here.

Estate: “Immerse yourself in the Santa Lucia Highlands with a visit to our Estate Tasting room. Choose one of our three tasting options or gear up for some adventure on our ATV Tour. Be sure to include time to relax on the deck to enjoy the spectacular view of Smith Vineyard.” Open Thursday-Monday 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. 37700 Foothill Road, Soledad, CA 93960.

Carmel Plaza: “Come visit us in Carmel-by-the-Sea! Our Hahn Family Wines Tasting Room is located in beautiful Carmel Plaza, a popular wine and shopping destination located blocks away from Carmel Beach and the World Famous Pebble Beach Golf Course.” Open daily, 12 p.m. – 6 p.m. Carmel Plaza, Ocean Avenue and Mission Street on the Ground Floor.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family Release Party: Great People, Diverse Wines, Tasty Food, & Eclectic Music – a Fun Time for All!

I was tipped off by our Wine Pod partners that I Brand was having a release party in late June – the first one since COVID made its unwelcome arrival in Monterey County.  We made a quick plan to carpool there.

We have been to several past release parties where members and fans get to sample newly-released good wine, paired appetizers, and great music.  In short, really fun.  There were a lot of wines to try on this Sunday – some on the release menu – plus a number of library wines hidden in between.  It was kind of overwhelming – in a good way!  I felt rushed at first – and then just slowed down and got in the groove. We enjoyed the sliders, the pizzas, and the gourmet popsicles!  And more wine.  I truly appreciated the library wines, as a great counterbalance to the new releases.  These wines demonstrated the staying power of Ian’s wines – and made the case for holding onto more of his wines – which are so tempting to consume right away. Thank you so much, Ian, Heather, and the rest of the I Brand Family, for making this event possible once again.

I have 14 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan – most tasted at the release party. I have presented the 2 Grenache wines before. And I added in a Syrah from our private collection. There was a lot going on at this event and we were moving a bit quickly, so I didn’t get the detailed tasting notes I might usually capture. I did go back to the tasting room in July to polish up a few of my notes – where I also got to taste the 2016 52-month Chardonnay – a bonus review for us at the very bottom of this post! Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2021 Piquette Nat, Arroyo Seco AVA, 7.4% AVA, $18 (#780)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A perfect summer sipper. Our Piquette Nat from California is Col Fondo process, an easy drinking blend of organic Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flowers.”

My Review: Made from Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flower, this looks like a Brut rose, smells like licorice, and, to me, tastes yeasty like a fruity beer. Very popular and different. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, San Benito County, $30 (#781)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Ranier cherries and lemon-thyme on the nose. Pink grapefruit and cara-cara orange lead the attack on the palate. Lingering tannin structure balanced with medium acidity and distinctive minerality contribute to a bright and festive Summer glass, perfectly suited for a wide array of food pairings.”

My Review:  An orange wine – the wax on the bottle is a huge hint!  Year over year, this is an excellent wine, light on the palate, crisp and tasty. We like this wine. June 2022

2021 La Marea Alternate Cut Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, $30 (#782)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Honeysuckle and citrus rind on the nose. Slightly funky palate of buttermilk and citrus rind, with a lingering creamy finish. The alternate cut makes for a heavier mouthfeel to this ever so slightly sweet Albariño.  June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan L’Apiculteur Cedar Lane Vineyard Viognier, Arroyo Seco AVA, $42 (#783)

Winemaker’s Notes from wine.com: “Late ripening Viognier from the alluvial benches above the Arroyo Seco River fermented in a combination of stainless steel, neutral barrels and twice used barrels. Soaring honeysuckle aromas, flavors of pear and crushed stones, partial malolactic fermentation for focus and composition.”

My Review: This “library” Viognier was a bonus wine – this is an excellent representation of Central Coast Viognier – honeysuckle yet lean. The age on this bottle made it more complex and interesting. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, Paicines, San Benito County, $30 (#784)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Jasmine flower and lilac on the nose. Dried apricot and quince lead the attack on the palate. Medium to full body finishes with notes of bergamot.” 133 cases produced

My Review:  Another atypical varietal that Ian likes to work with.  This is the second vintage of this wine that I have tried. This one is really special – a funky, earthy nose, followed by a light and tasty palate, especially after tasting the library Viognier. June 2022

2021 Le P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, 13.7% ABV, $24 (#785)

About LPP Sauvignon Blanc : “Paysan Sauvignon Blanc comes from Zabala Vineyard – located on a large holding on the Arroyo Seco floodplains that was part of land granted to the Zabala family before California’s statehood. It was first planted in the 1970s and has grown to encompass over 1000 acres. Zabala Vineyard is one of the rockiest vineyard I Brand works with, full of what is locally known as ‘Greenfield Potatoes’, which are the rather inedible round river stones that dominate the soil and have been collected into piles and walls at every property in the basin. This vineyard is located directly in the path of the daily Salinas Valley winds, which control sugar development and retain natural acidity. Certified organic grapes.”

Winemaker’s Notes: “The bouquet is an explosion of white peaches, gooseberries and perfumy passionfruit. This translates over to the palate with more gorgeous and concentrated white peach bursting to the front and evolving into hints of trailside strawberry. Bright acidity. Crisp, tart and refreshing. Lingering finish that has a subtle creaminess returning to tropical passionfruit.” 145 cases produced

My Review: The LPP Sauvignon Blanc comes from one of my favorite vineyards in Arroyo Seco. Very pale in the glass. Yummy butterscotch and tropical notes on the nose. A flavorful palate dominated by lime cloaked in honeysuckle, with a citrusy, buttery finish. Very balanced and tasty. June 2022

2019 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $20 (#786)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality. The wine is produced predominantly from a few vineyards at the base of Jack’s Hill, planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of the Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North.”

My Review: From our home collection. Pale golden in color. Tropical bouquet of pineapple and honeydew. Palate brimming with soft pineapple, with citrus notes. This is one of my favorite central coast everyday Chardonnays – def not buttery, oaky. June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.67% ABV, $36 (#787)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Smoked chestnuts leading into dark cherry-cola on the nose. Ripe red fruits abound in the form of Bing cherries and Santa Rosa plum. Light body with very mellow tannin structure and soft glycerin finish which lingers and fades into petrichor.” 62 cases produced

My Review: Translucent, dark ruby in the glass.  Dark cherry on the nose and very smooth and tasty dark cherry on the palate. I prefer this to the previous vintage! June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, San Antonio Valley, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#788)

89 points – Wine Enthusiast : “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins.” Matt Kettmann 6/2018

My Review: The grapes for this library wine come from Pierce Ranch – and this is a delicious wine.  Another reason to hold your I Brand wines. I would rate this higher than Wine Enthusiast did back in 2018. One of the wines I took home with me from this tasting! June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 12.4% ABV, $45 (#789)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Saddle leather, and ripe huckleberries on the nose. Wild blueberries lead the attack on the palate transitioning into gorgeous and concentrated red ddelicious apple notes contributing to a bright and lingering finish. Medium to light body with pronounced yet balanced tannins finishes with redwood duff.” 34 cases produced

My Review: OK, this was another favorite from the release party.  Light cherry and pepper notes on the nose, following through on the palate. Grapey, smooth and delicious.  One of the finest Mourvèdres I have ever had.  Took one home. June 2022

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#635)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromas of red fruit about in this ripe and silky grenache with flinty undertones. Bright acidity leads the way on the palate allowing the lovely, light red fruit shine in the form of overripe strawberries and loganberries. California anise, white pepper, and mild tannins finish neatly.” 440 cases produced

My Review:  With grapes from Monterey and Santa Clara, this one gets the Central Coast label.  A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with smooth cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021, June 2022

2014 La Marea Brosseau Vineyard Grenache, Chalone AVA, $68 (#636)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.” 124 cases produced

My Review:  Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish. These library wines show the staying power of Ian Brand’s wines – we loved them all. A hint to hold them a bit longer. December 2021, June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Escolle Vineyard Gamay Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#790)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Telicherry peppercorn and carraway seed lead the bouquet, evolving into spiced black plum notes. The peppery and spice plum carries over to the palate attack and the finish is short, but exquisitely spicy for a light to medium bodied and chillable red. Pronounced yet balanced tannins. Finishes with notes of California garrigue; think sagebrush, manzanita and mugwort.” 95 cases produced

My Review:  Oh, the Gamay Noir!  What a way to top off the afternoon! Ruby, almost purple in the glass. Very grapey nose. Grapey, smooth, jammy, good!  I took one of these wines home, too! The challenge will be to hold it and not just open it and drink it. June 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, $42 (#791)

Winemaker’s Notes: The Graff Family Vineyard “…is a small 3 acre vineyard planted in 1989 to Syrah, Mourvedre and Melon de Bourgogne. The site has depleted, granitic soils and, combined with the elevation and exposure, it’s a perfect situation for producing deep, funky, expressive American Syrah.” 39 cases produced

My Review:  From our private collection. Dark ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Red fruits on the palate. This isn’t a huge Syrah – a bit lighter and more elegant, refreshing and tasty. Very nice on day 2.  May 2022

2016 I Brand & Family 52-month Chardonnay, Monterey, 15% ABV (#792)

Winemaker’s Notes: 52-months in a steel tank. Aged in the bottle one year before release. “Delicate & oxidative aromas similar to a beautiful Fino sherry. Palate confirms aromatics.  Nutty entry, candied pineapple & ripe tangerines on initial & mid-palate. Finishes with warm marzipan, toasted cinnamon, anie & cloves. Searing acidity throughout.” 41 cases produced

My Review:  I am not sure I would have guessed this was a Chardonnay. Toasted pineapple notes on the nose and palate, but an almost fortified or Sauternes-like quality on the finish – butterscotch and pineapple.  July 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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A New Face in the I Brand Tasting Room!

Stop the presses!

I was on the road this spring quite a bit and did not make the tasting room rounds – until late in June, when we went on a tasting streak in a single long weekend!  While I was busy traveling, I sometimes sought the easy post to fulfill the weekly blog. And I have neglected some of the bigger tastings I did in the winter.  As I look back, I recall I did not post my February 2022 I Brand tasting because I had another catchup post in the works. I recently attended their first release party in a couple of years – and realized there were quite a few other wines I needed to write about first. So, I am halting the presses on my more recent flurry of tastings for this catch-up post!

I distinctly remember this tasting – when we met Will for the first time in the tasting room.  It was so nice to put a face with the new name and he warmly welcomed us. We tried to move quickly through the wines, as we were just in the neighborhood and had not planned a full tasting – we got one anyway!

I have 12 wines (zounds!) to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2016-2020. Most of these come from my February tasting, but others were from our private collection. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

While the wines speak for themselves, I’d like to include this quote from Ian’s Spring 2022 Winemaker Letter, which hit home why I remain a fan of Ian and his wines.  He talks about his “…fascination with old vineyards and more obscure varieties.” He goes on to say, “To appropriately shepherd the local winemaking industry into its best iteration, there needs to be a semi-cohesive idea of what a region is – there should be an expected balance and flavor profile shared in the wines from the region…As we are able to realize and share our ideas of our terroir, wines from the region will become more valuable, which leads to more value in our community.” You can red more about Ian and Heather Brand and their wines here: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/.

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 12.2% ABV, $30 (#741)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A fresh and delicious ‘orange wine’ from mature, terraced Pinot Gris grapes on the oldest, continually producing commercial vineyard in California.”

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $36 (#742)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.”

My Review:  Straw in the glass and sweet muscat and honeysuckle on the nose.  The palate was not as sweet as the nose predicted, with decent tartness with a light, slightly sweet finish.  Quite refreshing – I kind of liked it! February 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#743)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A pure, fresh, minerality driven, Chablis like Chardonnay blend from Jacks Hill on the Central Coast…Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA…planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North. Bright, crisp and clean with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality.”

92 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.” *Editors’ Choice* Matt Kettmann (2/2019)

My Review: Pale yellow in color.  Honeydew melon on the nose.  Honey and gardenia on the palate, with lime notes on the finish.  April 2022.

2018 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 13% ABV, $22 (#744)

90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Tight and brisk aromas of lemon peel and sandstone come through on the nose of this always fairly priced bottling. It’s soft on the palate in texture, but a wet stone minerality and lemon juice acidity provide tension, with dried pear and orange peel flavors showing as well.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: A touch leaner than previous vintages with a little acidity on the finish. February 2022

2019 La Marea and 2017 Besson Old Vines Grenache – Side by Side!

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#745)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fresh, medium bodied Grenache from three rocky vineyards averaging over 50 years of age.”

My Review:  A muddy ruby, richer in color than othis other Grenaches – almost purple.  Good cherry fruits on the palate. February 2022

2017 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, $42 (#746)

94 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Sage-oil, tea-leaf and geranium notes meet with dried strawberry and rose petal on the spicy, earthy nose of this bottling. The palate is a mix of dried flowers and rocky minerality, with flavors of gravel, dried currant and more tea leaf making for a fascinating sip of century- old vines.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: Light, translucent ruby in color, but richer, more tannic flavors.February 2022

2016 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, 14% ABV, $42 (#747)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Dark, translucent ruby in color. Dark berries and smooth tannins on the palate.  IMHO, one of his best Grenache wines. March 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone AVA, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#748) 72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Mandarin orange and cherry notes on the nose.  Palate had more heft, complexity than usual.  Hands down one of our favorite of his Grenache-Syrah blends.  May 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#749)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc…Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components, envelope the nose. On the palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.” 109 cases produced.

My Review: Lean, a bit austere with musty flavors. February 2022 February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV, $30 (#750)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Reminiscent of old world wine making Bayly Ranch is an etherial expression of Cabernet Franc. Notes of bright berries and mild spices…”

My Review:  Richer, rounder, chewier that the Bates, with cherry and dark berry flavors. Black pepper on the finish. I prefer this wine; my partner prefers the Bates. February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Fellom Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#751)

Winemaker’s Notes: “First planted in the 40s and abutting the classic Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain property, Fellom Ranch produces among the most sought after grapes in California…Deep dark purple. Aromas of black current, cherries, clove spice, toasted oak, and cocoa. On the palate, lush & ripe, bramble fruit, enters med-full bodied, supple tannin and acid tension structure. Lovely wine, with pleasure to fill the palate, today, and years to come.”

My Review:  Ruby, purple in the glass. Some chocolate notes on the nose with smooth, rich berries on the palate.  I will do my best to hold this for an appropriate drinking time frame. February 2022

2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, $22 (752)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.”

93 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This blend of 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre speaks so strongly to the terroir of the Central Coast as it is loaded from nose to finish with dewy sagebrush, crisp freshness and peppery spice. It begins with aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and herb, then settles comfortably into a firmly textured palate of oregano, pepper, sandalwood and more red fruit.” Matt Kettmann

My Review:  We tasted this wine out of order. Lovely, light, lean yet good. Always a favorite. February 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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“Shopping” at Home Yields Interesting I Brand Varietals and Vintages!

I’ve been saving up these reviews for a single I Brand post. One of the things I really like about Ian’s wines is his boldness to expose us to varietals which we might not even have heard of – and to do them very well. The Arneis in this post is one of those – the Melon de Bourgogne was another we really enjoyed. And we tend to enjoy the Grenache wines – a varietal lighter than our normal fare, but one I Brand also does very well. His Cabernet Francs fascinate me – different in style from each other and always just a tad leaner than some of the big Cab Francs we tend to get around here. We’ve also been digging deep into our wine room and found some hidden treasures, like the 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah. 

I have 6 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2012-2020 and covering Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2020 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $30 (#633*)

We invited our neighbor over to our sunny patio on this January day and decided to try this Arneis, a varietal I did not know! 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Pale golden yellow in the glass. Bosch pear with orange blossom and lime notes on the nose. Fresh and flinty, it opened up to be a lovely wine with round, flavors of grilled pineapple with a touch of olive juice and lime on the finish. An excellent summer patio wine. January 2022

2019 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#634*)

I needed an orange wine for a Halloween wine class and chose this one from my wine room!  Ian Brand’s orange wax was a great tip that this would be the right wine for our purpose!  I reviewed the 2018 vintage in this blog in December 2020 here: https://decantingmonterey.com/i-brand-family-inching-our-way-to-central-coast-wines/. 

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Light orange like a lollipop in the glass.  Very smooth on the palate with a pleasant tartness on the finish.  We liked this wine. October 2021

2017 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $30 (#635*)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Wine Crush: “This Grenache is mostly sourced from Monterey; it is de-stemmed and stainless steel fermented. The color is extremely pale ruby with, clean ripe aromas of both black and red cherry. Notes of sarsaparilla and a delicate restrained earthy quality.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bodied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of rosewater and red currant.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020

My Review: A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with light cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021

2014 La Marea Grenache, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 14.1% ABV, $38 (#636*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish.  September 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.3% ABV, $42 (#637*)

About Bates Ranch: “Bates Ranch, the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains…located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road… We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet Franc planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of the vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components on the nose. On palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure.  Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.”

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Dark ruby in color.  Red fruits on the nose.  Smooth and fresh, with a medium palate of raspberry, cherry and plum. This is a lighter, more delicate Cab Franc – a great food wine.  January 2022

2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $22 (#638*)

Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Ian Brand’s stab at this grape shows a lot of black rock minerality and bloody meats on the nose, layered across blueberry syrup and sour cherry elements. The palate is much lighter than other takes on this varietal, showing menthol-laced flavors of blackberries and tobacco.” Matt Kettmann, June 2015

My Review: Inky ruby in the glass.  Dark plum and blueberry on the nose.  Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate, enveloped by a licorice finish.  October 2021

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family: Inching Our Way to “Central Coast” Wines

One of the things Ian Brand is known for is sourcing grapes wherever he can find them to create his wines.  In this blog post, I am reviewing 3 of their I. Brand & Family wines – each from a different county in the Central Coast.  This post prepares us for our next move into Central Coast-labeled wines.

2018 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#86*)

This unique 2018 Pinot Gris is lovely in color and flavors.

We pulled this wine out in June for a farewell for our daughter as she headed off on another adventure.  I had looked at this bottle earlier in the week for a Rosé class, but there was nothing on it to say it was one.  Except the wax over the cork was orange instead of yellow, as is the case in Ian Brand’s whites.  And that is because Pinot Gris will naturally give you an orange wine.  Who knew? 

From grapelive.com – 92 points: “…Coming from the low yielding terraces at Eden Rift in Cienega Valley, not far from Calera in San Benito County, Brand’s Pinot Gris is wonderfully textural and charming on the palate with juicy peach, red apple skin, citrus and passion fruit leading the way along with a touch of mineral, mountain herb, orange zest, clove, a hint of apple better and wet chalk…”

Wine Enthusiast Review   – 92 points: “With dynamic and complex expressions like this, it’s a wonder why people started stripping the naturally pink hue that Pinot Gris provides. The pinkish orange wine delivers aromas of strawberry sorbet and rosebuds and then opens onto a palate of light raspberry and watermelon. There is ample tannic tension as well.” Matt Kettmann 12/2019

My Review: Bellini pink, peach 🍑 in color, sweet peach on the nose, a balance of sweet and tart mid palate, with a refreshing finish. September 2020

2016 I. Brand & Family Old Vine Grenache, Besson Vineyard, Santa Clara AVA, 14.6% ABV, $42 (#4*)

2016 Old Vines Grenache.

Made from grapes from 100-year old vines, this wine spent about 20 months in 20% new wood barrels, making this a bigger than average Grenache. 

My Review: The 2016 Old Vines Grenache is a beautiful cherry red color with bright fruit on nose and palate.  Very balanced and tasty, with lingering flavors on the palate.  This was more enjoyable on the second day.   Enjoy now or hold for a bit. 

2016 I. Brand & Family Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.7% ABV, $42 (#80*)

2016 Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch.

I. Brand & Family makes 2 Cabernet Francs:  a Chinon-style one from Paicines, which I presented at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar, and this one – Bates Ranch – a richer, Bordeaux-style wine from the Santa Cruz Mountains.  They are both terrific wines, yet I much prefer the style of the Bates Ranch. 

From I. Brand via www.unionsquarewines.com: “In our opinion, Bates Ranch is the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The other two, Monte Bello and Mt. Eden, are among the most revered vineyards in California. We first became aware of Bates Ranch through the amazing, and amazingly ageworthy, 70s and 80s bottlings from classic Santa Cruz Mountain produces like Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards and Ahlgren Vineyards. Bates Ranch is located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road. We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet France planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Fermented whole berry with native yeasts and a three week maceration. Aged in a neutral puncheon, a neutral barrel and a once used barrel for 20 months. 94 cases produced.”

My Review: Ian Brand makes his wines lean, lower alcohol and less fruitiness than in most California wines.  What this means is you can get to the true expression of the fruit.  The 2016 Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch is still a somewhat lean Cabernet Franc.  The palate is bold and fruity with bright acidity and cranberry/cherry tartness.  Would love to try it with a cheese plate. 

You can find I. Brand & Family wines directly from the winery – email them at brandfamilywinery@gmail.com. If you want to taste their wines, they are open Thurs. – Sun. 12pm – 6pm  for tastings with limited hosted seatings.  Please contact: hello@ibrandwinery.com to make a reservation.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

Integrity: “honest, real, and one of a kind” wines “made for people by people”

Back in June, my DC wine friends decided the theme for our weekly class would be rosé – a perfect wine for a warm end-of-Spring day.  I dropped into Bottles N’ Bins in Monterey and asked what they had from local wineries.  I found a well-known wine on the shelves right away, but I wanted to explore something different.  The clerk wasn’t sure, so he made a call – we found 3 more options in their refrigerator, ready to drink.  I lined them all up, looked at their colors and selected the darkest one. I didn’t know about “orange wines” when I selected this wine – turns out that was what I had.

From Cal Wine Jaunt:  “Integrity Wines offers flights of wine on Aviation Way (Watsonville, CA). The Integrity tasting room and production site is just steps from the Watsonville airport. Owner, Mark Hoover, recently opened the doors to his “urban winery.” Mark prefers to travel around and choose the grapes that he likes for his wines. He decided to skip the land and vineyards, source the grapes he wants, and focus on producing wines. It always helps to know your own goals and strengths. And Mark knows he would rather make wine than grow wine…

“Mark has been making wine since the ’80s with 2018 marking his third year of production. For some time his friends kept encouraging him and his talent for making wines…To his credit, Mark’s wines are holding their own. His 2016 Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay won a Silver Metal in the Monterey National Wine Competition. Sip Integrity wines made with grapes from the Santa Lucia Highlands, Sonoma, Napa, and of course, local Bay Area vineyards. Integrity wines are made for people, by people.

“When pouring a bottle, you’ll notice the thumbprint logo was placed directly where one grabs the bottle. I think of the thumbprint as a nod towards the tech industry, one’s unique identity and authenticity. For my tasting friend, the thumbprint brought to mind being honest, real, and one of a kind. The thumbprint evokes images and meaning to each of us. But in the end, what we put our hand to is very significant. Mark Hoover has put his hand to making wines.”

2017 Integrity Rosé, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $16 (#82*) 90% Pinot Gris (Monterey County) 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This rosé is really more of an orange wine than a classic rosé.

Winemaker’s Notes: 2017 Rosé of Pinots Monterey County. 90% Pinot Grigio (Monterey County) and 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains.) On the nose: strawberry, chalk, and graham cracker. On the palate: soft watermelon. Serve with fresh feta, mint, and watermelon, along with grilled chicken skewers. https://www.calwinejaunt.com/sip-and-tell-blog/integrity-wines-watsonville-wine-flights-plane-flights )

My Review: A bold pink, almost orange in color from the Pinot Gris, which naturally has an orange hue.  Powerful floral nose of honeysuckle and lemongrass.  Refreshing, bold palate with bright acidity and a lingering finish.  This wine did not disappoint.

You can obtain this wine directly from the winery or locally at Bottles N’ Bins Liquors on Lighthouse Avenue in Monterey.  I have not checked their inventory lately.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Blair: the Small but Mighty Delfina’s Vineyard

2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14% ABV, 175 cases produced, List Price:  $26, 216 cases produced

We have a fondness for Blair and stop into their tasting room in Carmel Plaza from time to time.  We mostly go because it bears the maiden name of a good friend.  And, about half the time, we’ve found Jeffrey Blair behind the counter.  If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a good place to try.  Its wines are getting favorable marks in various competitions, with the 2016 vintage of their Pinot Gris scoring 91 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

In general, we really like Arroyo Seco wines, with sandy loam and cobblestones in the dry river beds.  Here, cold winds off nearby Monterey Bay (the Blue Grand Canyon™) can make it “wind-blown and numbingly cold” as Mercy Wines describes it, yet somehow perfect growing conditions. We like Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (did I really say that?), Grenache, and Syrah.  You will hear more about them as I continue my trek through the Arroyo Seco AVA.

Matt Kettmann wrote an excellent article, The Hidden Treasures of Monterey in Wine Enthusiast which includes a nice writeup about Blair.

2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris

The 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris was Blair’s third Pinot Gris release from the Arroyo Seco AVA.  Unfortunately, winemaking notes not readily available, since this is not the current release.  Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast, describes it like this: “Lemon cream, honeydew, honeysuckle and toast aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is a citrusy boost to the palate, where orange-sorbet and lemon-spritz flavors arise.”

My Review: We tasted this wine before I was brave enough to do my own tasting notes.  I asked my resident wine expert what he thought about the 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris.  His response, “I opened the Chardonnay for cooking – it was fine!”  Hm. Yes, well, it was a delicious Pinot Gris, always a pleasant change from Chardonnay.  We did see it should have been consumed by 2018, yet it was perfectly delicious.  March 2020

Check out Blair Wines for their current releases.  They have a very nice tasting room in Carmel Plaza (Carmel-By-The-Sea). Their website suggests the tasting room is open every day, but always best to call ahead and confirm: (831) 625-WINE, especially during the fire emergency, much less the pandemic. 

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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