THE STORY
Last June, Decanting Monterey hosted one of its occasional private tastings, this one focused on the “Influence of Oak” on Tempranillo wines from Ribera del Duero, Spain. As background, in 2022 we went with Idle Hour Winery on one of its fabulous trips organized by ToursandWine.com (by Expanding Horizons). This one was an Amawaterways cruise down the Duoro River across Portugal, followed by a road trip along the Ribera del Duero for a private Tempranillo tasting. The private tour conducted by Bruno Criado del Rey of Tempranillo Wine Tours was a first-class, first-rate experience – everything from the wineries, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, meals, museums and hotels. If you ever want a first-rate Spanish wine tour, Bruno is your man. In addition, he provided us much of the entertainment on our trip – he is a fabulous singer and performer!
You can read more about this wine region of Spain in the Wine Enthusiast travel article: Ribera del Duero.
During that tour, we had 2 very different wine experiences: The first stop was at Sarmentero, a very small family-run winery, where we tasted several Tempranillos, each aged differently in stainless steel or oak, making a great compare and contrast of the influence of oak aging on a wine. We decided to ship back enough of this wine to share this experience with friends.
Our second stop was at the large Emilio Moro, where we had a thorough winery tour in its huge, and seemingly endless barrel rooms, where it mass produces its wines, based on its family heritage. We had an extremely delicious lunch there, with its lovely wines flowing freely. Emilio Moro wines can be readily found in the US.
Fast forward to June 2023: We invited the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and a few other regulars and neighbors to recreate this tasting at our home. These included, among others, Summer Emmons, whom we know through Parsonage Winery, and Erin O’Reilly of Terravenos.
We used the Terravenos-designed tasting sheet, from which I have amalgamated everyone’s comments into a single review. We even ranked the 4 Sarmentero wines and, you guessed it, oak matters. The longer a wine spent in oak, the richer the flavor and body of the wine. The Emilio Moro wine stands alone, as, despite its short time in oak (6 months), the winemaking style has produced a richer, fuller-bodied wine.
ABOUT SARMENTERO (from their website)
“Sarmentero is placed in the backyard of a castilian house in the tiny town of Quintanilla de Arriba, Valladolid. The property was acquired in 1942. Until that year, the house was part of the three miller houses in the town. From 1942, the house was dedicated to the production of tiles, cattle breeding and growing wheat and barley along with personal wine production.
“Generations of vine growers gave us the knowledge, discipline, love and the passion for wine to show its best nuances. Amparo Repiso, fourth generation winemaker, decided to go further with her dream and start her own winery in 2004. She started with just one barrel of wine, 60 gallons. That wine succeeded so much among everybody that she decided to keep producing wine and has been slowly increasing the production little by little to this day.
ABOUT EMILIO MORO (from their website)
“Bodegas Emilio Moro is one of the oldest leading quality producers in Ribera del Duero. The history of the family goes back 3 generations. 1st generation Emilio Moro was born in 1891 and 2nd generation Emilio Moro in 1932. Both were born in a viticulture environment surrounded by vineyards and grew up treading grapes and racking wine in their native village of Pesquera de Duero, in the province of Valladolid.
“Emilio Moro taught his son, Emilio how to make wine but also to love it. Then Emilio passed along that knowledge, passion, and love for wine to the third generation. Currently the third and fourth generation together run the winery.
“The vineyards were grafted with the purest clone of Tinto Fino, commonly known as Tempranillo, recovered from the oldest vineyards that the family owns, Valderramiro and Resalso. Currently the family owns more than 200 hectares. They are located between 2,400 to 3,000 feet of elevation.
“The third generation lead by Javier, Rubi and Fabiola started the newest project of the family when they were looking to the area within Spain capable of producing the best white wine. They settled in Bierzo in 2016 and have been making wines there with Godello variety ever since.
““Wine is art. If you listen, it speaks to you, it tells you when it needs to rack, when to rest. It’s like a living being that needs to be understood and cared for”. D. Emilio Moro”
THE WINES
I have 5 wines to present to you today, 4 from Sarmentero and 1 from Emilio Moro. The prices for the Sarmentero wines are their prices for purchase in Spain and do not include the high shipping cost to get them to the US. They shipped the wine legally and properly. The Emilio Moro price is the purchase price in the US. Winery aging, tasting and pairing notes come from their website, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. The reviews are an amalgamation of our attendee’s notes, at least the ones they were willing to leave behind!
2021 Sarmentero Thanos Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 14.5% ABV, $8 (#1241)
Aging: stainless-steel tank
Tasting notes: “Dark purple color with a garnet frame that reflects the youth of this wine. Intense aromas of blackberries, cassis and blueberries led by notes of caramel. Smooth and fresh aftertaste, medium tannins.”
Pairing: Salads, grilled veggies, heavier fish, fresh & soft cheese, charcuterie, rice & mild sauces.
Our Review: Purple in color. Licorice, blackberry, dark plum and pencil lead on the nose. Light and lean with tart fruits on the palate. A dry, short finish with plum and fruit notes. Flavors improved without the accompanying foods. A great bargain! June 2023
2020 Sarmentero Roble Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 14% ABV, $9 (#1242)
Aging: 5 months in American and French oak barrels
Tasting notes: “Smooth and lush medium body wine. Ruby and purple color edges framed by a red fruity and oaky bouquet. Smooth long aftertaste and medium velvety tannins.”
Pairings: Perfect for small bites and tapas, cheese and cured meats, rice dishes and tomato based sauces.
Our Review: Garnet/deep purple in color. Caramel, blackberry and a distinct barnyardy funk on the nose. Medium-bodied and smooth, soft on the palate. June 2023
2018 Sarmentero Vendimia Seleccionada Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 14.5% ABV, $16 (#1243)
Aging: 12 months in French oak barrels.
Tasting notes: “Colors of red cherry framed with purple edges. Pretty aromas of ripe and candied fruit that frame the licorice notes. Sweet spicy wood, black cherries and plum flavors on the palate. Well-structured and balanced, long but silky and smooth aftertaste.”
Pairing: Assorted cheeses, red meats, roasted vegetables, chocolate-based desserts or milk chocolate.
Our Review: Inky ruby in the glass. Fruity nose with vinegar and raisiny notes. A nice, medium-bodied wine with tasty fruit flavors mid-palate, followed by a bite on the finish. Very delicious. June 2023
2018 Sarmentero Barrica Reserve Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 14.5% ABV, $27 (#1244)
Aging: 18 months in French oak barrels.
Tasting notes: “Raised and refined in the style of high-quality and very limited production (100 cases). Seductive and intense aromas of black cherries, dry fruit, licorice and toasty oak. Velvety tannins and dense flavors of candied fruit, black fruit and notes of dark chocolate. Extremely well-balanced and long and deep aftertaste.”
Pairings: Red meats, cured cheese & meat, grilled vegetables, dark chocolate & dark chocolate desserts.
Our Review: Dark garnet color, with burgundy edges. Warm spices, caramel, earth, fruit, roses and pepper on the nose. Fuller bodied, with plum and intense blue fruit flavors. A dry finish with light tannins. June 2023
2018 Emilio Moro Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain , $20 (#1245)
Aging: 6 months in French oak barrels.
Tasting notes: “Elegant and subtle, a low production volume which has brought out the best essences of the grape. It’s a powerful, balanced wine with exceptional elegance. The aromas of Tempranillo have been refined through the ageing process and it has notes of wood in the background and the personality of the variety. In the palate, it is a reflection of the nose: strong and powerful with mellow and refined tannins.” 91 points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Decanter
Our Review: Deep ruby/garnet in color. Dark cherry, plum and berry fruits with some herbaciousness and earthiness on the nose. Woody palate of crushed berries – very pleasant and tasty – pretty yummy. June 2023
THE TASTING ROOMS
You can learn about tasting options at Sarmentero by visiting their link Come Visit. We likely did the Combo option, which was an explanation of the history, the vineyards, a tour of the wine production facility, followed by a tasting of the 4 wines accompanied by light food pairing. I would recommend doing it all.
You can visit and taste Emilio Moro wines through a variety of experiences outlined on their Enotourism page of their website. We very likely did the GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE option on our tour, which I would highly recommend. I would definitely go back and do it again.
Please make a comment if you have had a Spanish wine tasting experience worth sharing with our readers!
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