THE STORY
This week I am continuing our wine adventures in Croatia from my recent trip with Expanding Horizons and Idle Hour Winery & Kitchen. Please read last week’s post for more about our trip and for the wines we tasted during our first week. I’ve heavily relied on a website called Wine and More, which is an excellent resource on Croatian wines, their unique varietals, and even planning your trip! Plus, I’ve put information on how to locate and purchase Croatian wines at the end of this post, so keep reading!
Today’s post is about the wines we tasted during our second week, after we got on our private yacht – tasted either on the boat itself or on land at wineries or restaurants. From Split, we went island hopping to Hvar, Vis, and Korčula, and finally back to the mainland to Slano, ending up in Dubrovnik. Next week, I’ll bring you the Idle Hour wines we tasted throughout our adventure.
Once we boarded the Aurelia, our luxurious Katerina Lines yacht, our Croatian wine experiences this included wines available on the yacht, a winery tour on land, various dinners on land, and a Croatian wine tasting on board hosted by our Idle Hour host, Anna Marie Dos Remedios.
As I mentioned last week, some of the standout Croatian varietals included the white grapes of Malvazija Istarka and Graševina (at times thought to be Riesling) and the red grapes of Teran and Plavac Mali. The delicious red grape Plavac Mali (“little blue”} was long considered to be related to Zinfandel, but in fact, Kastelanski Crljenak, and Tribidrag are the true DNA relatives of California Zinfandel. You can read more on this controversy HERE.
My Disclaimer: I’m no expert in Croatian wines, so I’m bound to get lots of facts wrong as I try to talk about our experiences and the wines.
WINE ADVENTURES IN CROATIA BY SEA – THE WINES
HVAR
Zlatan Otok: According to Vinum USA: “In 1991 Zlatan Otok winery became the second private winery in Croatia after the country declared its independence. Established by Zlatan Plenković in a picturesque fishing village called Sveta Nedjelja on the Island of Hvar, today Zlatan Otok one of the largest private wineries in Croatia.”
2019 Zlatan Plavac, ZOI Cental and South Dalmatia, 14% ABV, $28 US (#1382)
Winery Notes: “This is wine of dark ruby colour, nice smell and powerful taste that lasts. Wine of rich, layered aromas with notes of Dalmatian herbs, spices and dark fruits like blueberries and plums. It is complex, full-body wine with beautiful accented tannins, well-balanced freshness and alcohol. Wine of exceptional presence on the palate that leaves no one indifferent.”
My Review: We purchased this wine on the boat for enjoyment several evenings in a row. I can’t believe we didn’t take notes! We recall it being ok.
VIS
Lipanovic Winery: On the island and town of Vis, we walked up a hill to the Lipanović winery housed in the former Yugoslav military tunnels which housed generators to fuel a secret base. There we tasted the Croatian grapes of Vugava and Plavac Mali grown on the island. I’ve linked the winery notes in the wine name, but they appear to be for different vintages than what we tasted. Still worth reading!
2023 Lipanović Viški Opol (Rose of Plavac Mali), Vis, Visko Vinogorje Locality Plisko Polje, 13% ABV $10 (#1383)
Winery Notes (2021): “The Vis Opol is a Dalmatian wine with rosy cheeks and a cult status. It is made from the ubiquitous plavac mali grapes. The strong fruity taste and aroma make it the best choice for opening dinners to remember. On hot summer days it glides down your throat like divine nectar so you can (and will!) sip it from brunch to bed. But don’t be fooled by its beautiful pink color as this is not a rosé wine: The Vis Opol is made by extremely short maceration, only five or six hours long!”
My Review: Despite the relatively short maceration of 4-6 hrs, it is still rather dark for a rose. Refreshing summer wine. Grapes and slight cherry notes on the nose. It tastes more alcohol than it is, a bit like a sherry. June 2024
2023 Lipanović Vugava, Vis, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 15.2% ABV, $13 (#1384)
Winery Notes (2021): “For thousands of years, Vugava Viška, the queen of wine, has thrived surrounded by the sea and sun-kissed by the Mediterranean sun, a labor of love on an island far from the Croatian mainland. It is characterized by a wonderful natural golden yellow color. Its scent is specific, varied, unobtrusive, pleasant, deep and full. This is a beautifully aged wine with fruity aromas of vineyard peaches, intermingled with the aromas of almonds and oranges, and featuring light notes of rowan, candied orange peel and roasted almonds.”
My Review: A special white wine reminiscent of a Viognier. Pears and apples on the nose. Alcohol is visible on the palate. A dry wine, with some sweetness to it. Could use a touch of acidity. June 2024
2019 Lipanović Plavac Mali, Vis, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 16% ABV, $31 (#1385)
Winery Notes: “There are a lot of plavac wines, but you won’t find one like this anywhere. Only the plavac mali from Vis is immersed in the sandy soil with deep horizons, which enriches the grapes with the moisture from below in periods when not a drop of rain falls on the island. It is characterized by a deep ruby color, irresistibly pleasant pungency, flaming aromas of overripe dark fruit and an incredibly long finish in the mouth. Did we mention that its strength never falls below 15.1%? No wonder, for only the strong survive on an island!”
My Review: Grown in sandy soil, this wine has a deep ruby color. Olives and spice with cherry notes and a hint of sulfur. Dry and full bodied, with pepper and earthy notes. Fruity up front and smooth. Very dry on the finish. June 2024
Lunch on the boat was always an opportunity to try some more Croatian wines!
Dvanajščak-Kozol Pinot Crni (Pinot Noir), Okrugli VRH Medimurje (#1386)
My Review: Dried cherry on the nose. Quite tart at first sip, with a little zip to it. Earthy dark plum flavors and more pronounced oak than we might typically see in a US Pinot Noir. June 2024
2018 Dom Kalebić Fameja, Otok Solta, Dalmatian Coast (#1387) Plavac Mali, Tribidrag, Dobričić
My Review: A blend of Zinfandel-related Wines. Dark in the glass. Raisiny on the nose, with stewed prunes and espresso notes. Tasty, with bitter dark chocolate, black ground pepper and mint flavors on the palate. Very smooth, with a dry finish – a Sharon kind of wine. June 2024
MLJET
On the island of Mljet, we took the crew’s recommendation to eat at the highly rated Konoba Galija. The upstairs location added an elegance, along with amazing sunset views. We chose one red and one white to accompany our diverse meal.
Matuško Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 12.5% ABV, $20 (#1388)
My Notes: Dusty, chocolate milk on the nose with light plum flavors. Lower alcohol. June 2024
Konobu “Galija” Pošip, OPC Juko Peselj, Korčula, 13.5% ABV (#1389)
My Notes: Honey, lemon and minerality on the nose. Full of flavor on the palate with a salt water twist at the end. June 2024
CROATIAN WINE TASTING ON THE BOAT: One evening, our host, Anna Marie, did an excellent tasting for us of four Croatian wines which she had selected and brought on the boat:
2022 Vinerija Dingač Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 12.5% ABV, $20/$35 US (#1390)
Potomac Wines: “This is the most traditional wine among our offerings from the famed Dingač vineyard on the steep coast in Southern Dalmatia. No barrique (oak) was used, only the best Plavac Mali fruit fermented and matured in large barrels. The winery stopped using donkeys to haul the harvested grapes some time ago. They advanced from workers in the field to mascots on the label.”
My Notes: Arriving late from dinner, we almost missed this wine in the Croatian wine tasting. Anyway, I enjoy a good Plavac Mali! June 2024
2021 Kastel Sikuli Kaštelanski Crljenak, ZOI Coastal Croatia, 14.5% ABV, $40 (#1391)
About Kastel Sikuli: “Kastel Sikuli is a family boutique winery that has been producing wine since 2019., ie the 2018 harvest. The winery owns a vineyard in Kaštel Novi on 13.000 square meters and two smaller vineyards in dalmatian inland with 3000 vines…”
Winery Notes (not vintage-specific): “Completely ruby color. At the beginning, the aroma is dominated by spices, pepper, vanilla, prunes, later aromas of red berries, mostly blueberries, develop. In the taste of prunes and berries, dried figs in the aftertaste. The tannins are velvety, the finish is dry, medium to long. The freshness is nicely expressed. Serious wine, which will show itself in full glory with the passage of time, the potential for aging for at least 3 to 5 years.”
My Notes: This tasted the closest to an American Zinfandel of all the Croatian wines we have tasted. I liked this wine – perhaps my favorite of the entire journey. June 2024
2019 Grgić Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 15.5% ABV, $49 (#1392)
Winery Notes (about the 2016 Vintage): “The grapes of this wine have been selected from the best wineyards in the well-known locations of Dingac and Postup on the Pelješac peninsula. The wine has been produced according to the methods of Miljenko Grgić and under his supervision. He is known in California and in the world as one of the best producer of Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The fermentation of the grapes has been done with naturals yeast but at a controlled temperature which help to keep much of the wine’s variety character and fruitness. After the fermentation the wine has been aging for 15 months in special oak barrels imported from France. The wine received a pleasant oak aroma from the barrels. The process has continued for two years in 0,75L bottles, where the aromas married and harmonized and flavor softened….It is with gentle tannins and pleasant blackberry and Dalmatian flowers aromas.
My Notes: Upon opening, this was a big, rough and alcoholic raisiny wine. It readily opened up, releasing dark, jammy fruit with spearmint on the finish. For many participants, this was their favorite wine of the tasting. June 2024
2021 Rizman Tribidrag, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 13.5% ABV, $26 (#1393) 85% Tribidrag (Zinfandel) and 15% Tempranillo – a unique combo!
Winery Notes: “Forward and expressive showing an abundance of ripe dark brambly fruits, raisins and prunes as well as dried herbs and sweet spices. On the palate it is well structured, displays ripe and juicy fruit underpinned by balancing freshness, followed by lovely complexity.”
My Notes: Super dark in the glass. Licorice on the nose. Grilled peppers and fresh tobacco on the palate. Dark and smokey. We liked this wine. June 2024
AND ANOTHER BOAT LUNCH WITH CROATIAN WINES:
2022 Zlatno Brdo Graševina, Baranja, 13% ABV (#1394)
About Graševina: I encourage you to click the link to learn more about Graševina, as it is the most planted grape in Croatia and was long considered to be related to Riesling, but turns out to be yet another uniquely Croatian grape!
My Notes: This was our introduction to the Grasevina grape – nice full bodied white grass on the nose. Lots of citrus orange and lemon with tons of minerality. June 2024
Tomić Petar Hektorović Dessert Wine, Hvar, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 15.5% ABV, $29 (#1395)
Winery Notes: “Tomić Prošek Hectorovich U.V. on Vivino Prošek is an authentic Croatian dessert wine, made using dried grapes of the finest indigenous Dalmatian varieties. Prošek is a natural sweet wine that originated in the coast…” Made in the same style as a Vin Santo.
My Notes: Curry and caramel on the nose, carrying over to the palate. Very interesting. Better than any other dessert wine or firewater we had on this trip. June 2024
2023 Kutjevo Graševina, Slavonija, 13% ABV, $29 (#1396)
Winery Notes: “High quality graševina is the brand of the Kutjevo winery. Grape selection comes from the best apellations of the Kutjevo wine region – Hrnjevac, Vetovo and Vinkomir. Fresh, harmonious and citrus-flavored aromas with hints of green apples and a powerful minerality, long aftertaste that opens the notes of chamomile are charachteristic to this wine.”
My Notes: This was a good quality Graševina which presented more acidic with good minerality. We enjoyed this chilled wine on a hot evening before our last dinner. June 2024
WHERE TO BUY CROATIAN WINES
FROM CROATIA DIRECTLY:
A couple of major foreign shops which might export these wines for a fee (might be as much as $20/bottle to get them through customs!!):
- Wine & More has the 2021 Kastel Sikuli Kaštelanski Crljenak, 2021 Rizman Tribidrag, 2023 Kutjevo Graševina– be sure to click US as the country and you will see shipping calculated on the checkout page. They ship to the US every 2-3 weeks.
- Croatia Revealed. If you want to order Tomaz (or other wines), the process is to send Croatia Revealed an email at info@croatiarevealed.com with a list of the wines you want to order. T.hey charge about $20/bottle to ship to the US and get through customs.
- Taste of Croatia carries the Tomić Petar Hektorović.
US WINE SHOPS:
My searches found a number of US shops selling Croatian wines, which they can ship to you. 1,000 Corks is also a useful resource.
- High Times Wines in Costa Mesa has the Grgić Plavac Mali along with a number of other Croatian wines – probably the best collection in California.
- K&L Wine Merchants carries some (for us Californians).
- Potomac Wines carries the Vinerija Dingač Plavac Mali we had in the tasting plus a few other Croatian wines.
- Astor Wines in NYC has a good selection and great prices.
- I found the Zlatan Otok Plavac from Yannis winery via Vivino here!
- And Plum Market online also has a large selection!
- The Liquor Junction in Massachusetts has the Volarević Plavac Mali I liked so much from dinner with our friends in Split.
If anyone has any other knowledge on finding Croatian wines in the US, please leave a comment!
© Decanting Monterey 2023
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