In June, we made a trip to Carmel Valley Village to taste I Brand & FamilySummer 2024 releases. We were happy to see Angie and Monica (welcome back!) in the Tasting Room and timed our visit perfectly. We were excited to get a glimpse of the 2023 vintage from Monterey County.
2023 was one of the rainiest, coolest, yet longest growing seasons experienced in recent history. Each vineyard and winemaker needed to determine for themselves how long those grapes could hang, hoping for warm enough weather the reach phenolic perfection. Some winemakers say it was the best vintage, with more ripe flavors shining through, while others have shrugged and said – wait and see. Ian is all in; I’m still in the wait-and-see category. The proof will be in the final product.
The thing I like about Ian’s approach to winemaking is his pursuit of the undiscovered and daredevil approach to bottle atypical varietals, like the Melon de Bourgogne and the Cachudo, and play around with different techniques and blends, like the Supertoothy. His adventurousness keeps us excited about what he will do next. Moreover, he spins a fascinating tale about each of these wines which makes being a member extra special. OK, and he throws a great party. I also value that he carefully prices his wine so there is something for every budget.
p.s. the Melon de Bourgogne comes from the Chalone AVA!
THE WINES – A Glimpse of the 2023 Vintage
I have 8 wines to present to you today from I Brand’s 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan.Winery notes are excerpts from their Summer Release newsletter – become a member to read the whole thing! Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
2023 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#1397)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Sometimes overlooked in our expensive lineup, our Vista Verde Arneis is absolutely an oddity, but deserves to be seen more than a sidelight…Arneis, limited to the mountainous Piedmont, is highly regarded by those that know, but often falters outside its home range. The small block on Vista Verde, fortified by its calcareous soils, yield a shockingly, faithful reproduction.”
My Review: Pale in the glass, ale on the nose – hops and minerals with a slightly sweet finish. June 2024
2023 La Marea Cachudo, Pierce Ranch, San Antonio Valley AVA , Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $25 (#1398)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Our ‘Cachudo’ is 97% Arinto from the Pierce Ranch near Lake San Antonio in the Lockwood valley. Arinto is a Portuguese variety known for its highly age worthy and structured whites.…Arinto is sometimes referred to as Cachudo ostensibly for the small protrusions on the ends of its berries in Spanish. Cachudo means having horns.…our Arinto is a resilient wine. It’s a perfect match for the higher elevation valley in the lee of the Coastal Mountains. Redolent with citrus, crest stones, serenity and acid, look for this wine to add a beeswax element if you age it.…”
My Review: This Portuguese varietal was light gold in the glass. Butter and caramel and orange blossom on the nose. Pink grapefruit and minerality on the palate. We appreciate Ian bringing another varietal to light for us. This is a very tasty wine – we took some home! June 2024
2023 I Brand & Family “Supertoothy” Skin Contact White, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 12.7% ABV, $28 (#1399)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Based around the rare Savignon Gris grape from the calcareous hillside of the Vista Verde Vineyard blended with Verdelho, Pinot Gris and Chenin Blanc, our Supertoothy can be described as ‘responsible orange wine’. Neither cloudy, volatile nor particularly orange, when chilled the Supertoothy does white wine stuff with a little extra action in the back section. As it warms, the complexity and structure steps forward and pairs with more robust foods… The five days of skin contact bring depth of character to the Sauvignon Gris which is supercharged when blended. ‘Toothy’ used to mean, collectible or delicious. This is Supertoothy.…”
My Review: The color was one shade brown – with flavors of the golden and the orange. “Creamsicle,” Angie said. I got Sauvignon Blanc and bubble gum on the nose. Bubblegum and tart citrus on the palate. June 2024
2023 Paysan Jacks’ Hill Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $24 (#1400)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This is the latest in string of banner vintages of the Jacks’ Hill Chardonnay. Compared to the last two, it shows more opulent and riper fruit earlier than the ‘21 and ‘22 vintages while carrying a structural and acid backbone similar to the ‘21.…A more joyful expression of the wind, fog and rocky soil that our Jacks’ Hill bottling.”
My Review: A little sweetness on the nose. Lemon and orange on the palate. This wine spent time in concrete, stainless steel and neutral oak. Different from the usual Jacks’ Hill. Not as tropical. June 2024
2023 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#1401)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The skins were so thick and developed in 2023 that our skin contact white and gris wines took on substantially more flavor and color than in the past years, yielding a more robust, almost juicy wine. To balance the robust fruit, this vintage carries one of the highest total acid we’ve had on this wine. The result is distinctly in line with the vintage – more of everything…”
My Review: Light golden in glass. Toast on the nose. Tart on the palate. June 2024
2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Flint Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $36 (#1402)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our second vintage of the Flint Pinot Noir shows the potential of the vineyard, even in a rough vintage for Pinot Noir.… If you like our wines… it’s because, first and foremost, we make sure our vines are on the right soils…I just vastly prefer Pinot Noir on calcareous soils and there isn’t a lot of it on the West Coast.”
My Review: A little cherry and chocolate. We disagreed with each other on smell and palate. I definitely agree with Ian that some of the region’s best Pinot Noirs come from the limestone soils of Cienega Valley and, let me add, Harlan Mountain AVAs in San Benito County. June 2024
2022 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $27 (#1403)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “…Made from vines from the 60’s and 70’s planted in calcareous alluvial deposits on the cooler edge of Cabernet climate, fermented and open top vats with endemic yeast and aged in older casks for less than $30, even the most knowledgeable of wine merchants would be hard pressed to find anything comparable.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in glass. Cherry and dark berry notes on the nose, carrying over to the palate. I really like this bargain wine and would enjoy it as an every day wine. It doesn’t taste like the typical California Cabernet Sauvignon. June 2024
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.5% ABV, $48 (#1404)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “We’re betting heavily on the Stagecoach Block at Bates Ranch…This 2021 version, the second we’ve made for our own label…shows why I’ve been trumpeting 2021 as the most age-worthy vintage I’ve worked. This wine is damn tasty unreleased and will only get better. You could pay a whole lot more for Cabernet with less pedigree and potential, but why would you?”
My Review: Cinnamon and spice on the nose. We like this wine – an age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon – a superb value. June 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
If you want a glimpse of the 2023 vintage, head on over to the I Brand & Family Tasting Room, located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I love it when wineries enthusiastically welcome the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for our monthly First Friday WinedUP events. And Will and Angie from the I Brand & FamilyTasting Room did just that for us in early February, sharing the latest from I Brand with our Monterey AWS group.
THE STORY – The Latest from I Brand with the Monterey AWS!
ABOUT THE MONTEREY AWS CHAPTER
The Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society was founded in early 2020 – just before the pandemic. Many of its early activities had to take place over Zoom. As things reopened, it began its monthly First Friday WinedUP events, visiting a different local winery tasting room to improve its knowledge of the region and our wines. I’ve been advising them for a while now on places to go, wines to taste.
When I reached out to Will Larkin at I Brand & Family, he was immediately enthusiastic about the idea. We set the date for February 2. In a few quick emails we established the pricing and size of the event. Piece of cake!
I Brand had its A-team – Angie and Will – on tap for the event. They had prepared a special tasting menu just for our group. We started with a rose pre-wine while we waited for everyone to arrive.
Angie and Will know everything about I Brand & Family wines. Will shared with the group some facts and figures about how the have the largest portfolio of any single winery in Monterey County. He explained the single vineyard, old vines nature of the I Brand & Family label (as opposed to La Marea and Paysan, the other two labels). We discussed the news reported by Laura Ness in Edible Monterey that Ian Brand Expands into Dorcich Facility – such a fabulous opportunity for Ian Brand.
AND, SO, HOW WAS THE TASTING?
We were delighted that so many of our members turned out for the occasion. Everyone enjoyed the tasting room venue, the quality and value of the wines, the hospitality, and the ability to mingle about and socialize. As a special treat, we welcomed some new members to our group!
I have 6 wines with updated tasting notes to present to you today from I Brand’s3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.Winery notes come from their newsletters or other websites as noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!
Winemaker’s Notes: “Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”
My Review: Pale pink in color. Slightly sweet watermelon on the nose, followed by a perfect rose palate. I would use this in a class and would drink one in the micro-climate! February 2024
2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)
According to Will, Arneis is a northern Italy varietal which is planted to help fight phylloxera!
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”
My Review: Light golden in the glass. Caramel and floral on the nose. Crisp and clean on the palate with honey notes and a long finish. A very nice wine. February 2024
2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromatics of Meyer lemon and nutty pralines lead the way on the nose, quickly evolving into a beautiful floral bouquet of honeysuckle. Bright acidity starts things off on the palate with layers of fruit; including underripe pear and granny smith apple, rounding out with a warmth reminiscent of quince. The bright acidity blends with well-integrated tannins, finishing neatly with toasted oak.”
My Review: Hint of burnt sugar and honey on the nose. Balanced, with a slightly buttery finish. The French oak aging presents itself in a very balanced way, with the toasty notes and hint of butter. This wine is year over year perhaps the best Chardonnay made in Monterey County. February 2024
2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”
My Review: Translucent ruby in the glass. I detected cherry and caramel on the nose. The savory palate was laced with crushed berries and root beer flavors, with a touch of smoke on the finish. February 2024
2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Dark in the glass. Sweet and herbaceous on the nose. The “California chaparral” shines through, with cherry notes on the finish. This is drinking well – good and tasty. Excellent quality for value. February 2024
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”
My Review: Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and green pepper on the palate. Presents as a Cabernet Franc, light and lean. February 2024
2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with cherry notes and a slightly tannic finish. Richer than the DeRose. Lovely wine. Would be great with a meal. February 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”
We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society(AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us. My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.
The Comanche Tasting Room, located at 412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter. Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds. We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.
We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery. His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse. In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines. We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!
“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards. Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!
“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!
“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)
There is a story about this wine. It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine. They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!
Winery Notes: “N/A.”
My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023
2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)
Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023
2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)
Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”
My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.
2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.
2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache
Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote
wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”
My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish. During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.
2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)
I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023
2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023
2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)
Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”
My Review: Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023
NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane
Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red
cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”
My Review Powered bytèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics. Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel. This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal. Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit. Good depth.” My favorite wine of the day. October 2023
2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38 (#1167)
Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this
single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”
My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Inky purple in color. Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate. A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”
The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. 831-747-2244. Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!
They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!
by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!
THE STORY
We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June. He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately. Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer! Lesson learned: pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!
Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.
If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.
The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic.
Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations. Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time. I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.
Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year.
David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up. He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021. And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!
Sangiovese
After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room. Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed. It would encompass the Folktale property. It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.
Our mutual assessment: We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years. They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.
“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.
“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”
“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”
THE WINES
I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale, Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story: Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!
Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.
Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!
Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023
2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)
Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby. Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023
NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)
I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made. Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it: You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses. You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.
I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:
“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”
Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.
Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity. August 2023
Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.
Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.
2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023
2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann
Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023
2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)
2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines. The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023
The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley. We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections. We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side. What fun!
SOME FACTS AND FIGURES
Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:
1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!
2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others. While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines.
THE WINES
Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:
SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS
We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.
Cabernet Francs:
2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir. This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.
2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.
Cabernet Sauvignons:
This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75 (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate. More Napa-like in overall composition.
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.
TODAY’S WINES
I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”
My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish. We liked this wine. June 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”
My Review: Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023
2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis. Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)
Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic. Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’. The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”
My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose. A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish. This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023
2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”
My Review: Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023
2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”
My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023
2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)
Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”
My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance. Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)
Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”
My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I had never heard of Austin Harlow so it was time for us to get educated! There were 9 wines on the tasting menu with 2 options: half flight for $10 and full flight for $20. Now, that’s enticing! We chose a half flight, so I still need to go back and try his other wines.
Bill Austin was in the tasting room that Friday afternoon, so we had a chance to talk a bit. We learned about how he sources his grapes, including managing and farming one of the Hollister vineyards himself. Other local vineyards are well known to us, including Zabala Vineyards down in Arroyo Seco AVA and Manzoni Estate Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. He prides himself on bringing quality wines in attractive and fun bottles at reasonable prices. This is a sentiment echoed by several of his neighboring vintners and one of the reasons I admire Monterey/Central Coast wines.
“Drawing grapes from some of the finest vineyards in California, Austin Harlow Winery prides themselves in showcasing some of the best wines being produced in the area.”
“Austin Harlow Winery was established in 2014 by Bill Austin of Monterey Peninsula, a long time wine enthusiast. The flagship brand is “Mid Life Crisis Wines”, officially released in March 2015. Drawing grapes from some of the best vineyards in California, the Mid Life Crisis Wines offer both intense and complex flavors at a great value. The Mid Life Crisis lineup consists of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel (from a vineyard planted in 1935), a San Benito County Zinfandel, a Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon (from grapes planted in the Clements Hill region), a Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Pinot Noir (from an appellation considered to be one of the best in the world), and Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Chardonnay.
“All of the Mid Life Crisis Wines have been patiently aged in small, French and American oak barrels of the highest quality and then bottle aged for one year so that they are delicious immediately upon release, but they also will increase in complexity with additional bottle age…
“…Did you ever taste a $60 or $80 bottle of wine for under half the price?! Mid Life Crisis Wines are truly luxury wines at affordable prices.”
My Review: This was the last wine we tasted – after we had the bigger reds. My apologies, but I have no notes. My recollection is that it was representative of the region. June 2023
My Review: Dark garnet in color. Intense dark berries on the palate with bright red fruit (red currant) on the finish. We all thought this very young wine, with more time in the bottle, has the potential to be a very good wine. June 2023
We recently opened Ian Brand’s 2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon and I wrote up this whole side-by-side review of the 2017 and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (2018 previously reviewed here: https://decantingmonterey.com/le-ptit-paysan-new-releases-continue-to-impress/). A few weeks later, we discovered a 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah in our wine room and decided to open it, as well. So, let me revise my planned post a bit!
About Le P’tit Paysan from wine.com: “The Le P’tit Paysan label is ‘Village’ wines reimagined for California. They take vineyards and lots that, for whatever reason, aren’t ready to stand on their own and we compose them into terroir specific, eminently drinkable wines that belong on your table. These wines are made with the same attention to detail that graces our single vineyard offerings, specific site selection, open top fermentation (reds) or whole cluster pressing (whites), a focus on endemic fermentations, no enzymes, no fining, gentle filtration only as needed. Easy to drink but subtly serious, easy to pair but lovely on their own, demurring complexity, bright acidity, clean and fresh as the ocean air that blows in daily off the Monterey Bay.”
We liked the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and feel the direction of moving to Old Vines fruit from San Benito County, as he did with the 2018, is a great move. That one was incredibly young when I tasted it and it deserves a revisit soon. AND, for my DC-area readers, you can find the 2018 at lots of little markets around town!
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, 13.3% ABV, $25 (#475*)
91 Points by wine.com: “Wineries often grapple with this question: Do we produce a style of wine that most consumers will like our do we deliver the best vision of the grape variety? The 2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon pulls no punches and is a true to the grape variety as can be. TASTING NOTES: This wine is pert, well-built and Old World in style. Its aromas and flavors of black currants, earth, and dried herbs and held together in a tight and elegant format. It should pair well with a pan-seared lamb chop. (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)”
My Review: Dark in the glass. Black fruits on the nose with a touch of cedar. Dark berry and cherry flavors on the palate. Vanilla on the finish. A touch acidic. August 2021
2018 Le P’tit Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito County, $25 (#279*) (previously published)
Winery Tasting Notes: “currant, blueberry, cracked black pepper, medium-bodied”
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points:“This is a great example of Cab done in a more classical style, utilizing old vines for their aromatic and flavor range while remaining light on its toes. Aromas of crunchy blackberry, pepper and crushed wet stone lead into an energetic palate of black plum, chaparral spice and cracked pepper.” Matt Kettmann, 09/2021
My Review: Ruby in the glass. A light, smooth bouquet and palate to match. Very drinkable – not a big wine, but a great value and drinkable now! March 2021
2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, ~$21(#476*)
Winery Notes: Black plums, blackberry, crushed rocks, black olive. Full and rich on the palate, but neither hot nor oaky. Structured without being overbearing, rich dark fruit, long finish with hints of stem tannins.
My Review: Inky ruby in the glass. Dark plum and blueberry on the nose. Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit is enveloped by a licorice finish. October 2021
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
This is my last of three planned posts on my Spring Release 2021 I Brand wines, with this post focusing on the I Brand & Family label. This label is for their “California inspired” wines, as compared to the country French and Spanish inspired wines of P’tit Paysan and La Marea, respectively.
The 4 wines in today’s post are the I Brand & Family 2017 and 2018 Chardonnay, 2019 Pinot Noir (a first!), and a special 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, three of which I tasted in early March at their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village.
One of the things Ian Brand is known for is creative grape sourcing for his vineyards. In the case of these wines, he is using rather well-known (at least well-known to us locals) vineyards – ones known for producing quality fruit for higher-end wines.
Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands:“Honore’ Escoole purchased his summer property, for his family in 1878. He established one of the most desireable benches in Monterey County. Now, managed under the local Caraccioli Family. This site, continues to deliver a distinct expression of the northern Santa Lucia Highlands. Dominate soil Chualar Sandy Loam, which allows great root distribution and development.” (from I Brand’s tech sheet)
Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County:“Enz Vineyard is located in San Benito County in the little-known Lime Kiln Valley AVA. Enz currently owns about 1,400 acres and is planted with 40 acres of vines. Mourvedre and Zinfandel are the prime varietals however, they also yield small quantities of Pinot St George, Pinot Noir, and Orange Muscat. Although Enz is fairly close to Monterey Bay, the vineyard elevation site above the fog line and the steep valley walls create a warm microclimate ideal for Mourvedre.” California Wine Navigator
Massa Vineyard, Cachagua, Carmel Valley:“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards.” Heller Estate
“The Massa Vineyard is the new name for the underground classic Durney Vineyard right here in Carmel Valley…We are pleased to be working with the Massa family on excellent organic farming practices…This release comes from its 1971 planting, which we consider far and away the most exceptional blocks on the vineyard.” I Brand Spring Release newswletter
2017 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#281*)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Amazing balance and roundness. Rich nuttiness, and fruit showcased upon the nose. Partial malolactic fermentation, allows bright acidity to shine, while the creamy characteristic follows upon the palate. Layers of fruit and baking spices envelop the mouth, providing a silky finish that lasts. Baked apples, and pineapple lead, with a slight clove finish. Enjoy now, or cellar for an optimal tasting experience.” 10 months on lees, 50% new French oak. 4 months stainless steel, partial malolactic fermentation.
My Review: Beautiful golden yellow in the glass like sunshine. Fresh citrus squirt on the nose and more of same on the palate. A lovely wine. March 2021
2018 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#282*)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: ““bright citrus, macadamia nut, subtle spice, silky smooth” 10 months in 50% new oak, last 4 months in stainess steel.” “Like a sunny day.”
My Review: Brighter yellow than the Albarino. Mild, buttery and creamy nose. Toasted marshmallow and butter on the palate with lemon curd on toast on the finish. Delicious. March 2021
2019 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#283*)
Winery Tasting Notes: “cherry, black tea, rhubarb, damp earth, dry acidity, will grow in expression over the next few years” “A cooler climate Pinot.”
My Review: Strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Raspberry and rhubarb on the palate. Slight tannin on the finish. March 2021
2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Block 10’, Massa Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 13% ABV, $75 (#284*)
Winery Tasting Notes: “black current, violet, bergamot, strong & graceful, will age well over 10-12 years” “On par with the Monte Bello Road” (I Brand’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains)
My Review: Deep ruby – bordering on inky. Intense dark berry (great Cachagua fruit) on the nose. Inkiness continues on the palate – rich deep flavors. The challenge will be to lay it down and not touch it – we are not that disciplined! March 2021
This is my second of three planned posts on my Spring Release 2021 I Brand wines, with this post focusing on the Le P’tit Paysan label.
But, before we get to them, let’s start with a 2017 P’tit Paysan Viognier (as they say, “vee-oh-NYAY”) which I presented in a recent wine class. Having lived near the Virginia wine region, where Viognier is plentiful, I have been impressed over the years with Le P’tit Paysan Viogniers. In my wine class, we were each asked to present a Viognier from anywhere. In our class we learned about wines from Argentina, France, California, Maryland, Virginia and Washington State!
In addition to the 2017 Viognier, I am highlighting 3 Le P’tit Paysan wines from the I Brand Spring 2021 Club Release, which I sampled at their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village.
Colorfully-labeled Le P’tit Paysan wines sampled in early March at the I Brand Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village
About Le P’tit Paysan (I Brand’s French country-imspired brand from the label: “Le P’tit Paysan – a country man or woman; peasant; clown; in country fashion. We select grapes from vineyards off the beaten path to produce wines that express the soil, climate and character of their source.”
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Viognier “L’Apiculteur”, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Montery County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#276*)
“L’Apitculteur” from the P’tit Paysan 2017 Viognier Tech Sheet
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: ““L’Apitculteur” translates, “keeper of the bees”. Vibrant aromatics fill the nose with white floral qualities. Honeyed stone-fruits fill the mouth, apricots, peaches and pears. Cooler growing climate produces white floral components, and soft minerality. Med-full bodied weight on the palate, supports a perception of sweetness, due to clean fruit and honeyed characteristics.”
My Review: Straw yellow in color. Yummy boquet of sweet peach, grapefruit and gardenia. Crisp on the palate, delicious, not sweet, with a slight citrus bitterness and perhaps some lavender on the palate. Complex. March 2021
2020 Le P’tit Paysan Rosé Pierre’s Pirouette, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $19 (#277*)75% Mourvèdre, 18% Grenache, 7% Cinsault
Le P’tit Paysan Pierre’s Pirouette is always one of my favorite rosés from the Central Coast!
From their webpage: “Our Rosé is a choice blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault. These vineyards are intentionally picked for their rocky & sandy soils which drive up the minerality and keep a balanced bright acidity. A perfect summer sipper with hints of strawberry, orange peel and a subtle spice. Undertone of crushed rock, sea spray and jasmine complete this complex but easy to drink wine. Pairs well with good friends and bonfires on the beach.”
My Review: Dusty rose in color. Peachy watermelon on the nose. Round flavors on the palate – Mourvèdre dominating. A touch of sweetness and gentle tobacco on the lingering finish. Agree with rose petal in the winery’s description! March 2021
2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, Central Coast, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#278*) 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre
The 2018 P’tit Pape might be my favorite vintage of this blend yet!
Winery Tasting Notes: “dark cherry, cocoa, stewed plums, white pepper”
My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Chocolate raspberry truffle on the nose. A richer palate of dark cherry and black currant, with rose petal and cherry on the finish. This could be my favorite P’tit Pape yet! I am hoping to showcase this wine in an upcoming Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar class. March 2021
2018 Le P’tit Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#279*)
The grapes for this Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon were sourced from nearby San Benito County.
Winery Tasting Notes: “currant, blueberry, cracked black pepper, medium-bodied”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. A light, smooth bouquet and palate to match. Very drinkable – not a big wine, but a great value and drinkable now! March 2021
When my Spring Club Release became available for pickup, I contacted the I Brand tasting room to find a day I could stop by for a quiet, isolated outdoor tasting to taste their new releases. In addition to tasting those wines in early March, we have opened several other Ian Brand wines at home in 2021. I’ll be presenting all of them in 3 separate posts by label: La Marea, Le P’tit Paysan, and I. Brand & Family. Today’s post is about three La Marea wines, Ian Brand’s label for his Spanish-inspired wines.
More About La Marea from the Winery: “La Marea, (Spanish for “The Tide”), made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.”
2020 La Marea Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 11.9% ABV, $24 (#269*)
“The Kristy Vineyard grows on the western bench over the Salinas River on the broken sediment of ancient sea beds where it is exposed to the consistent cooling winds off the Monterey Bay. Kristy is a special because Albariño in the vineyard reaches full phenological ripeness at low potential alcohol and bright natural acidity later in the season. Usually picked between 20-22 Brix with a sub 3 PH and nearly 9 g/L TA. Whole cluster pressed and cold fermented to preserve aromatics and freshness. Secondary fermentation is arrested.” La Marea
My Review: Pale yellow in color, fragrant Gardenia, grapefruit and lemon curd on the nose. Vibrant acidity on the flavorful palate of sweet grapefruit, with a lingering lemony finish. March 2021
2016 La Marea Grenache Spur Ranch, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $20? (#270*)
“Spur Ranch Vineyard is part of an 11,000 acre ranch located at a 1000 foot elevation with a fifteen degree south facing slope on the south side of Chalone peak. The soils are high-calcareous content clay over the same mica shist substrate that dominates the Chalone appellation. Fermented whole berry with a small percentage of whole cluster with both native and selected yeast strains. Aged in 100% neutral barrels for 11 months. 135 cs produced.” La Marea
Winery Tasting Notes: “Beautiful and bright representation. Profile firmly representative of its unique micro-climate terroir. Cooler region, allows peak levels of ripeness, while also obtaining low alcohol levels. Freshness, purity of fruit and an elegant, silky style. Endless layers of red fruits fill the nose. On the palate, acid leads, allowing bright red fruits, strawberries, cherries and raspberries to pop with a beam of minerality. Green anise and fennel appear, while the red fruits maintain palate saturation.” 124 cases produced.
My Review: Translucent light cherry in color. Light cherry on the nose, a slight bit of vinegar. Very light on the palate, refreshing, almost as light as a rosé! After opening up, flavors became a little more complex. January 2021
2018 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13.6% ABV, $30* (#271*)
The grapes for this “Central Coast” wine were sourced from San Benito, Monterey, and Santa Clara Counties.
Winery Tasting Notes: A traditional Spanish Grenache – “red plums, damp earth, baking spice, subtle complexity”
My Review: Bright, transluscent cherry. Sweet raspberry on the nose, very smooth red currant on the palate, lingering light licorice flavors. March 2021
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
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