Tagged: San Benito County

The Latest from I Brand with the Monterey AWS!

I love it when wineries enthusiastically welcome the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for our monthly First Friday WinedUP events. And Will and Angie from the I Brand & Family Tasting Room did just that for us in early February, sharing the latest from I Brand with our Monterey AWS group.

THE STORY – The Latest from I Brand with the Monterey AWS!

ABOUT THE MONTEREY AWS CHAPTER

The Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society  was founded in early 2020 – just before the pandemic. Many of its early activities had to take place over Zoom.  As things reopened, it began its monthly First Friday WinedUP events, visiting a different local winery tasting room to improve its knowledge of the region and our wines.  I’ve been advising them for a while now on places to go, wines to taste.

If you are interested in joining the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society, first join the national American Wine Society and pick Monterey as your local chapter. You can see our events on our local chapter page. 

SETTING THINGS UP WITH I BRAND & FAMILY

When I reached out to Will Larkin at I Brand & Family, he was immediately enthusiastic about the idea.  We set the date for February 2.  In a few quick emails we established the pricing and size of the event.  Piece of cake!

I Brand had its A-team – Angie and Will – on tap for the event.  They had prepared a special tasting menu just for our group.  We started with a rose pre-wine while we waited for everyone to arrive. 

Angie and Will know everything about I Brand & Family wines. Will shared with the group some facts and figures about how the have the largest portfolio of any single winery in Monterey County. He explained the single vineyard, old vines nature of the I Brand & Family label (as opposed to La Marea and Paysan, the other two labels). We discussed the news reported by Laura Ness in Edible Monterey that Ian Brand Expands into Dorcich Facility – such a fabulous opportunity for Ian Brand. 

AND, SO, HOW WAS THE TASTING?

We were delighted that so many of our members turned out for the occasion. Everyone enjoyed the tasting room venue, the quality and value of the wines, the hospitality, and the ability to mingle about and socialize.  As a special treat, we welcomed some new members to our group!

THE WINES

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  All of these wines we tasted at this event have been presented before and many are available at these 2 links:  I Brand & Family: Rare Holiday Vertical Tasting Follows Low Key Autumn Release! and I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  The rest you can easily find by putting their number (example: #957) in the search bar on www.decantingmonterey.com.  You will also find more detailed winemaker’s notes there.

I have 6 wines with updated tasting notes to present to you today from I Brand’s3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.  Winery notes come from their newsletters or other websites as noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Pale pink in color. Slightly sweet watermelon on the nose, followed by a perfect rose palate. I would use this in a class and would drink one in the micro-climate! February 2024

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

According to Will, Arneis is a northern Italy varietal which is planted to help fight phylloxera!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review:  Light golden in the glass. Caramel and floral on the nose. Crisp and clean on the palate with honey notes and a long finish. A very nice wine. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromatics of Meyer lemon and nutty pralines lead the way on the nose, quickly evolving into a beautiful floral bouquet of honeysuckle. Bright acidity starts things off on the palate with layers of fruit; including underripe pear and granny smith apple, rounding out with a warmth reminiscent of quince. The bright acidity blends with well-integrated tannins, finishing neatly with toasted oak.”

My Review:  Hint of burnt sugar and honey on the nose. Balanced, with a slightly buttery finish. The French oak aging presents itself in a very balanced way, with the toasty notes and hint of butter.  This wine is year over year perhaps the best Chardonnay made in Monterey County. February 2024

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. I detected cherry and caramel on the nose. The savory palate was laced with crushed berries and root beer flavors, with a touch of smoke on the finish. February 2024

2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review:  Dark in the glass. Sweet and herbaceous on the nose. The “California chaparral” shines through, with cherry notes on the finish.  This is drinking well – good and tasty. Excellent quality for value. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)             

Winemaker’s Notes: “The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”

My Review:  Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and green pepper on the palate. Presents as a Cabernet Franc, light and lean. February 2024

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with cherry notes and a slightly tannic finish. Richer than the DeRose. Lovely wine. Would be great with a meal. February 2024

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


I Brand & Family: Rare Holiday Vertical Tasting Follows Low Key Autumn Release!

THE STORY

I Brand & Family had a low key Autumn Release in November with pickups in the tasting room and not at a party at the winery.  Ian explained why: harvest and crush were very late this year due to the cool spring and long growing/ripening season. Instead, he hosted a member holiday party in December, where we were able to taste verticals of their Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre wines. What a treat!  There was also great music by El Pecado de Juana, delicious tamales Oaxaquenos by Pedro Martinez & Family and a vegan pozole by Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Cultura.

I decided to enjoy that party and not try to take notes, as we sorted out which, if any, wines we would take home – one of each variety the 2013 La Marea Grenache, the 2017 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, and the 2018 P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon – one of the last with the old label!

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  You can find the latest two !!!! here: A Quick Catch-Up Post on I Brand & Family Wines and I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops! 

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and P’tit Paysan.  These wines were all from that low key Autumn 2023 Release.  As typical with Ian’s wines, they span a number of our local AVAs across 3 counties!  Winery notes come from the winery’s tech sheets (thank you, Will!). Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2022 La Marea Alt-Cut’ Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $30 (#1222)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Honeysuckle on the nose. Bright acidity on the palate – a very tasty wine. November 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#1223)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “This wine is bursting with bright honeydew melon and white pepper on the initial nose, evolving into savory notes of saffron and tarragon. The attack on the palate is full of juicy fruit with a prevalent creamy salinity on the back reminiscent of Salazar oysters. Soft acid builds on the front and provides a distinct glycerin mouthfeel that lingers into more of a hum of soft acidity that permeates the palate.”

My Review:  Hay in the glass. Honey on the nose. Baking spices and honey on the palate. Fairly sweet. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $36 (#1224)             

Winemaker’s Notes: “Location: DeRose is a 25-year-old own rooted planting of Cabernet Franc. The DeRose Vineyard is part of the old Vaché planting and is the oldest continuously producing commercial vineyard in California. It was subsequently owned by William Palmtag and Almaden Winery, at which time it housed the largest barrel storage room in the world. Soils are a mix of lime and granite. The hill above the Cabernet Franc block is occupied by a lime mine…

“Tasting Notes: The initial bouquet is a lovely perfume of wild raspberry and Santa Rosa plum with subtle hints of sweet tobacco and violet. Red fruit persists on the palate, incorporating a vibrancy reminiscent of Ranier cherries. Underlying the ripeness of the fruit is a bright acidity melded with pronounced tannins to create a well-integrated interpretation of the variety.”

My Review:  Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Sweet plum on the nose. Plum, red and black berries and black pepper on the palate. Delightful. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 11.9% ABV, $48 (#1225)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Cinnamon on the nose. Bright, crushed fruit on the palate with a slightly tannic finish. This will age into a nice wine. November 2023.

2021 Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast AVA, 13.2% ABV, $25 (#1226)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme, provide a complex complement to the fruit on the nose. A distinct umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review:  Garnet in color. Cinnamon and plum on the nose. Cherry on the palate. Tart palate with a touch of central coast funk. November 2023.

2021 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 13.9% ABV, $85 (#1227)

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite, and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review:  Almost purple in the glass. Black berries on the nose. Delicious berries on the palate. Smooth on the palate. Nice tannins. Maybe a touch vegetal on the finish. Buy this wine – it has great potential. November 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#1228)              

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Rich dark berries on the nose with a touch of smoke or dirt – in a good way. Very dark palate. IMHO, this is his best Syrah to date – I took one home. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


A Quick Catch-Up Post on I Brand & Family Wines

THE STORY

Since the I Brand & Family Autumn 2023 Releases have recently become available, there is no time better than now to issue this quick catch-up post. I’ve been collecting these reviews of I Brand & Family wines we have enjoyed at home over this past year. If only I had created Catch-Up Mondays earlier in the year!

I’ve written about I Brand & Family many times in Decanting Monterey.  You can find the latest one here: I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops! 

THE WINES – A QUICK CATCH-UP POST

I have 5 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family and P’tit Paysan.  These wines were all from our home cellar and were tasted throughout 2023. 3 of these are new writeups, plus a couple we’ve had before.  The wines in today’s post span a number of our local AVAs across 2 counties.  This demonstrates great breadth in their continual efforts to uncover and highlight the region’s best grapes. Winery notes come from their newsletters or websites as noted. However, I seem to have a gap in my collection of tasting notes.  Any errors are mine and mine alone. Now, for the reviews!

2020 I Brand & Family Melon de Bourgogne, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $30 (#1211)            

Winemaker’s Notes: N/A

My Review: Beautiful golden in the glass. Honeydew and pear on the nose. Full palate of round honeydew notes on the mid palate surrounded by a slightly bitter lemon twist.  Robust yet delicate.  I liked this wine. July 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, (#1212)

Winemaker’s Notes found on K&L Wine Merchants: “When Honoré Escolle purchased a summer property for his family in 1878, he established one of the most desirable benches in Monterey County. Over 130 years later, three agricultural families developed the land with the intention of carrying on the propertie’s rich tradition through quality driven vinicultural practices. The Caraccioli, Nunes and Hibino families focus on delivering a distinctive expression of northern Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.”

My Review:  Beautiful dusty golden in the glass. Tropical notes of white peach, lychee and pineapple on the nose. Balanced acidity and a palate of juicy, tropical flavors. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve had lately. I can always count on Ian’s Escolle Chardonnay to be nothing short of exceptional. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, $30 (#741)        

Winemaker’s Notes: N/A

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022 Lovely light orange in the glass like an orange lollipop. Nose of citrus blossom and yellow peach. Balanced acidity with peach, melon and tart notes amplified by a lingering finish. Lovely wine for a nice May afternoon patio tasting. May 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Old Vine Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, $43 (#1213)

Winemaker’s Notes from www.wine.com: “Planted in the late 1800’s this fruit is among some of the best Mouvedre plantings on the continent. This wine tantalizes the palate. Dark brambly fruits and rose petals open the nose. Black pepper and lush fruits balance subtle savory notes. Zesty tannins and light acidity on the finish.”

My Review: Pale purple in color.  Plum, blackberry and eucalyptus on the nose. Thin cherry mid-palate, followed by a robust punch of tannic and slightly acidic flavors of cherry, blackberry, tobacco and pencil lead on the finish. April 2023

2014 P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#788)

Wine Enthusiast – 89 points: “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins. ” — Matt Kettmann June 2018

My Review:  Inky purple in the glass. Red raspberry, plum and a touch of brown sugar on the nose. Cassis and dark berries on the palate. A slight tartness balances the jamminess of the fruit. We like this wine. July 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Comanche Cellars: A Story About a Man, His Horse, and Good Wine!

THE STORY

I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”

We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society (AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us.  My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.

The Comanche Tasting Room, located at ​412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter.  Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds.  We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.

We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery.  His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse.  In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines.  We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!

ABOUT COMANCHE CELLARS (from their website)

“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards.  Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!

“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!

“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”

THE WINES

I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)

There is a story about this wine.  It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine.  They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!

Winery Notes: “N/A.”

My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023

2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)

Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023

2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)

Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”

My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.

2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.

2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV  (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache

Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote

wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”

My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish.  During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.

2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)

I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023

2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review:  Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023

2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)

Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”

My Review:  Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023

NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane

Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red

cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics.  Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel.  This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal.  Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit.  Good depth.”  My favorite wine of the day. October 2023

2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38        (#1167)

Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this

single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos:  Inky purple in color.  Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate.  A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”

The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. ​831-747-2244.  Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and ​Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!

They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!


Folktale: a tradition that changes over time!

by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!

THE STORY

We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June.  He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately.  Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer!  Lesson learned:  pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!

Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.

If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.

When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.

The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic. 

Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations.  Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time.  I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.

Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year. 

David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up.  He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021.  And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!

Sangiovese

After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room.  Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed.  It would encompass the Folktale property.  It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.

Our mutual assessment:  We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years.  They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.

ABOUT THE WINEMAKER

“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.

“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”

“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale,  Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

ABOUT LE MISTRAL

We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story:  Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!

Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.

ABOUT COMMON THREAD

Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!

2021 Folktale Talking Animals Pétillant-Naturel (Pet-Nat) Sparkling Wine, Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, 12.9% ABV, $35 (#1120)

Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023

2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)

Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby.  Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023

NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)            

I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made.  Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it:  You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses.  You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.

I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:

“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”

Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines. 

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.

Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity.  August 2023

Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.

Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.

2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023

2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann

Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023

2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus.  The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”

Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)        

2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines.  The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.

My Review:  Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm.  You can get more information and make a reservation here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Even More Wines from the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!   

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  This is part 2 of my experience at the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting organized by the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association in Carmel in early August. Check my blog for Part 1 from earlier this week and I will have one more next week!

Today’s post will include our engagement with Silvestri Vineyards, Rexford Winery, Opaque Wines, Scheid Vineyards, Scratch Wines, and Tira Nanza.    

THE WINES

SILVESTRI VINEYARDS

It’s been a while since I have tasted Silvestri wines.  I have long been a fan of their Barbera and Syrah, so it was a real treat to try these at this event.

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $48 (#1098)

Winery Notes: “Syrah fans everywhere!  Our Syrah continues to please year after year.  Savor the aromas of blackberry and dried plum while enjoying the mouth-watering flavors, velvety texture along with medium tannins. Complement with sausage pizza, grilled veggies or grilled meat.”

My Review: Beautiful dark ruby in glass. Dark fruits enrobed with eucalyptus. Mouthfilling. Delicious. I had forgotten how delicious their Estate Syrah could be! August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1099)

Winery Notes: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest.  With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.

“Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”

My Review: Hammy bacon on the nose, like BBQ ribs. Dark fruit on the palate. Yummy. August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Red Ranger Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1100)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Red Ranger is the 7th release of our signature Syrah that represents a part of the vineyard featuring the Bien Nacido clone, which is known for its richness and complexity. We use 75% new French oak and age it in the cellar for 16 months…

“Red Ranger rocks!  That consistent depth of flavor, roundness and long finish are all here.  Blackberry, black currant and a trace of fig lead to the full mouthfeel, just the right acidity and long, luscious finish. Try with a sausage stew and roasted meats, or aged hard cheeses.” 93 points, 2023 Wine Enthusiast buying guide!

My Review: Inky in glass. Rich palate of dark fruits highlighted by some woody notes. My favorite red wine of the day. August 2023

REXFORD WINERY

I do miss Rexford’s tasting room in Carmel Valley.  It sat quietly next to Parsonage, where COraal Wine Co. is today.  We’d stop in to talk to the vintner from time to time.  He makes one heck of a delicious Chardonnay and Merlot.  But today I decided to try their Zinfandel.  We just don’t seem to have the right climate for Zinfandel, yet I continue to seek one out.

2019 Rexford Zinfandel, Gillian Enz Vineyards, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, 15.5% ABV, $37 (#1101)

Winery Notes: “Lime Kiln Valley is a small viticultural area located in the San Benito County south of Hollister. The area features soils of decomposed granite and limestone, with warm days and cool nights that lead to a long growing season producing balanced wines with great depth. We think that Sam’s great grandparents produced wine from grapes grown here more than a century ago so we are pleased to offer this Zinfandel. Aged in American oak and bottled without fining or filtration, the wine is full-bodied with rich berry flavors and a smooth finish. Enjoy it with barbecue, grilled meats or pasta.”

My Review: Garnet in color. While our region is not known for its Zinfandel, this Rexford wine is not bad for a lighter Zinfandel. August 2023

OPAQUE WINES

At the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration, which I wrote about here, I talked about the Riboli Family wines and San Simeon’s Stormwatch. At this event, I chose the Opaque line of wines.

2019 Opaque Darkness  Red Blend, El Pomar District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.9% ABV, $30 (#1102)

Winery Notes: “The word “opaque” means “impenetrable to light” and refers to the dark, inky, impenetrable color of the Riboli family’s proprietary blend. Opaque Darkness brings together the impressive quality of our estate grown Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah grapes. After aging in French and American barrels for 15 months, our hand-crafted artisan blend reveals ripe flavors of raspberry and blackberry with notes of spice and vanilla. Enjoy the darkness!”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark fruit berries not overdone. Very balanced. Really quite delicious. A superb value. August 2023

SCHEID VINEYARDS

At the Scheid table, we were introduced to a couple of family wine lines I had not heard of before. These two wines were lots of fun and perhaps the polar opposites, showing the range of what Monterey County can produce. 

Sunny with a Chance of Flowers: “Sunny is made for mindful wine lovers – who, like us, believe less can be more. Zero sugar, fewer calories and less alcohol, yet still positively delicious! It’s everything you want in a wine and more –certified sustainable, vegan and gluten-free.”

VDR – Very Dark Red: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. Effortlessly bold, it captivates the senses with an inherent confidence that draws you in. Slightly mysterious, yet unexpectedly approachable, this robust red blend reveals new layers of depth and personality with each lingering sip.”

Sunny Positively Bubby Rosé, Monterey County, 9% ABV, $20 (#1103)

Winery Notes: “Everything is better with bubbles! Our Sunny Bubbly delights with flavors of fresh strawberry and watermelon wrapped in a package of lovely, fine bubbles and a crisp, refreshing finish. We are all born to sparkle…Aromas of fresh strawberry and watermelon. Lovely, fine bubbles. A crisp, refreshing finish.” 91 points – Wine Enthusiast and Best Buy

My Review: Pale pink. Cantaloupe flavors. Very bubbly and light. Zero sugar. Made from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. August 2023

2020 VDR (Very Dark Red) Proprietary Red Blend, Hames Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $25 (#1104)

Winery Notes: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. VDR is a non-traditional proprietary red blend headlined by a rare combination of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot – two grape varietals known for their extraordinarily deep violet hues, concentrated flavors and full-bodied profiles. Big and bold, VDR not only turns heads, it turns the curious into evangelists with its layered complexity, lush mouthfeel, supple tannins and smooth, lingering finish.” https://www.cheersandco.com/

My Review: Inky in the glass. Dark fruit and caramel on the nose. A rich, jammy palate of dark fruit. Very tasty – a great value. August 2023

SCRATCH WINES

I think anyone who has met Sabrine Rodems would agree that she is a formidable talent in the Monterey winemaking world. She makes wine for Kori, Scratch, and Wrath, all in the same building at Wrath Wines.  Her talent, creativity and stamina are equally impressive. I fell in love with Wrath’s San Saba Syrah many years ago and knew, when I tried the Wrath Ex Dolio Falanghina, that she was one to think outside the box and dare to be different. 

I’ve had Scratch wines a few times and finally visited her cute, trendy and spacious tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. I was delighted to chat with Sabrine a bit on this day and taste some more of her wines.

2022 Scratch Rosé of Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV (#1105)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Bright pink in the glass. Fuji apple and great flavors on the palate – bright and delicious. August 2023

2021 Scratch C47 Marsanne/Roussanne White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $59 (#1106)

Winery Notes: “These two Northern Rhone varietals grown in Carmel Valley from the Paloma Creek Vineyard are traditionally blended together. The slightly crisp nature of Marsanne with white nectarine, quince & lemon balance out the creamy Roussanne with fig, peach, pear and a little nuttiness.”

My Review: Melon on the nose. Creamy from the fruit with an attractive sweetness at the finish. August 2023

2019 Scratch C47 Red Blend, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 14.5% ABV, $95 (#1107) Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot

Winery Notes: “Classic Bordeaux blend from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc from the steep slopes of Janaca Vineyard. Merlot harvested from the high elevation of the Zayante Vineyard. Black berries, blueberries with hints of juniper & spices all come together in this blend, creating a sophisticated and age worthy bottle to enjoy now or in the future.”

My Review: An attractive dark garnet in color. Lots of berry flavors, yet retains a lean nature. August 2023

TIRA NANZA

We had met Greg Hill at the Monterey Winemakers’ Celebration back in June, so it was great to see him here and try another of his wines.  We are big fans of our newest and youngest wineries and believe Tira Nanza shows great promise. I previously reviewed his Cabernet Sauvignon here.

2022 Tira Nanza Malbec Rosé, Central Coast AVA, 13.5% ABV, $30 (#1108)

Winery Notes: “Back by popular demand, our 2022 Malbec Rosé may differ from its predecessor in color but it shares the same vibrant fruit and complexity that made the ‘21 so special. Lighter in color and more tropical in flavor, with notes of strawberry, cantaloupe and mango, this Rosé can be enjoyed in any setting. Fermented and aged in Stainless Steel”

My Review: We detected floral notes on the nose and palate, with anise on the finish. It was served very cold. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  

THE STORY

As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley.  We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections.  We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side.  What fun!

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:

1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!

2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others.  While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines. 

THE WINES

Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS

We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.

Cabernet Francs:

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose.  Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir.  This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.

Cabernet Sauvignons:

This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75     (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate.  More Napa-like in overall composition.

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.

TODAY’S WINES

I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish.  We liked this wine. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”

My Review:  Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023

2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”

My Review: Straw in the glass.  Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis.  Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic.  Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’.  The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”

My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose.  A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish.  This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023

2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023

2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)

Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”

My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance.  Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)

Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”

My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose.  A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Austin Harlow Has a Mid Life Crisis in Carmel Valley!

It’s rare for the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod to be caught by surprise – but Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines surprised us! They recently opened a new tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – right next door to I Brand and just down the row from Parsonage, Corral, Chesebro and Windy Oaks.

I had never heard of Austin Harlow so it was time for us to get educated! There were 9 wines on the tasting menu with 2 options: half flight for $10 and full flight for $20.  Now, that’s enticing! We chose a half flight, so I still need to go back and try his other wines.

Bill Austin was in the tasting room that Friday afternoon, so we had a chance to talk a bit. We learned about how he sources his grapes, including managing and farming one of the Hollister vineyards himself.  Other local vineyards are well known to us, including Zabala Vineyards down in Arroyo Seco AVA and Manzoni Estate Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. He prides himself on bringing quality wines in attractive and fun bottles at reasonable prices. This is a sentiment echoed by several of his neighboring vintners and one of the reasons I admire Monterey/Central Coast wines.

“Drawing grapes from some of the finest vineyards in California, Austin Harlow Winery prides themselves in showcasing some of the best wines being produced in the area.”

About Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines:

“Austin Harlow Winery was established in 2014 by Bill Austin of Monterey Peninsula, a long time wine enthusiast. The flagship brand is “Mid Life Crisis Wines”, officially released in March 2015. Drawing grapes from some of the best vineyards in California, the Mid Life Crisis Wines offer both intense and complex flavors at a great value. The Mid Life Crisis lineup consists of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel (from a vineyard planted in 1935), a San Benito County Zinfandel, a Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon (from grapes planted in the Clements Hill region), a Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Pinot Noir (from an appellation considered to be one of the best in the world), and Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Chardonnay.

“All of the Mid Life Crisis Wines have been patiently aged in small, French and American oak barrels of the highest quality and then bottle aged for one year so that they are delicious immediately upon release, but they also will increase in complexity with additional bottle age…

“…Did you ever taste a $60 or $80 bottle of wine for under half the price?! Mid Life Crisis Wines are truly luxury wines at affordable prices.”

Today’s Wines

Today I am presenting 5 Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines. Please note they have 2 websites, with the second being Mid Life Crisis Wines. I could not locate winery notes for the wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Austin Harlow Reserve Marisol’s Moscato, Napa Valley AVA, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#1042)

My Review: Sweet stone fruits on the nose, followed by a sweet palate. This was a fine Moscato. June 2023

2022 Mid Life Crisis Wines Savignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $22 (#1043)

My Review:  Melded tropical fruits and fresh cut grass on the nose. Tart tropical fruits and citrus on the palate. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Puggy’s Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.4% ABV, $38 (#1044)

Winemaker’s Notes: From the Manzoni Estate Vineyard.

 My Review: This was the last wine we tasted – after we had the bigger reds.  My apologies, but I have no notes. My recollection is that it was representative of the region. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Zinfandel, San Benito AVA, 14.9% ABV, $28 (#1045)

My Review: Intense raspberry jam on the nose, carrying over to the palate.  Notes of buttered caramel popcorn on the finish. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Cammie’s Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, 14% ABV, $48 (#1046)

My Review: Dark garnet in color. Intense dark berries on the palate with bright red fruit (red currant) on the finish. We all thought this very young wine, with more time in the bottle, has the potential to be a very good wine. June 2023

Where to Taste

Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines Tasting Room: Located at 19 E Carmel Valley Rd. Suite G, Carmel Valley Village. Open Friday – Sunday from 11:00 am – 6:00 pm.

I Brand & Family’s Spring 2023 Release: Some Very Special Surprises!  

The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us.  There is always something surprising to taste.  And the most recent one in March was no exception.  It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting.  In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality.  Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.

I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely.  Then comes the great part:  deciding which wines we will take home!

I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)

Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program.  We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.

“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”

My Review:  Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache  

Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.

“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass.  A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”

My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.

“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”

My Review:  112-year-old vines! Garnet in color.  Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the  darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”

“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.

“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice.  A bright palate with cranberry notes.  It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.

“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Battle of the Carmel Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons!

As we were driving out to Carmel Valley to select wines for the Carmel Rotary event in February, we hatched this idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to host a blind tasting of Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons?  We ran the idea by one of our tasting room favorites, Summer Emmons, at Parsonage. She thought that sounded wonderful and started rattling off wineries which should be included – they were the same ones we had discussed in the car!

When we got home, Mr. H searched our collection to see if he could find wines from a single vintage. The oldest vintage we could find for all those wineries was 2015. And we did call around to try to add some other Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to the mix – but couldn’t get our hands on them.

This was a particularly good, albeit low yield vintage for Carmel Valley wines. As Sal Rombi of Rombi Wines explained to me long ago: Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season.  Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious vintage. 

The hard part of arranging this event was finding a date that would work for everyone we wanted in the room. In the end, we pushed it out to March – and even then, lost a couple of participants. But it was the right group for the experience. In the room was the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod, Summer Emmons of Parsonage, and Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos.

There was much anticipation and preparation for this event. The hardest part was the wine glasses:  first, finding 7 sets of glasses in which all 4 glasses were the same, and then getting all the spots off the glasses.  The amount of glassware reminded me of the time we tested Parsonage’s COVID wine tasting procedures – it was a lot of glassware, prompting them to change their plan.

The wines were all decanted at the same time. Not all our decanters were the same shape, but it was the closest we could come. And the wines were carefully pre-poured by Mr. H, a 2-ounce our of each of the 4 wines for each participant. Only he knew which wine was which and the order was mostly random. And only he and I knew exactly which wines were included in the mix, including the fact that one was a red blend. We also carefully planned the food pairings, with salami, cheeses, and a bit of dark chocolate to match the Cabernet Sauvignons.

Then the fun began. We used the tèr·ra·ve·nos tasting sheet to rate the wines. In general, we looked at and smelled each wine before we tasted them. We analyzed the flavors of each wine one-by-one. Since we didn’t know which was which, we could be bluntly honest about each one. With such a range of palates, we heard many descriptors…memorable ones…and we agreed that one of the wines – what we learned later was the red blend – tasted vastly different from the others. We did do an informal ordering of our preferences, with Wine #4 slightly edging out these other fine wines. This was a super fun format and we will do this again. Why not try this with your friends?

We started our evening with antipasto and 2 local whites:  2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White and 2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc. Here are winery notes on these two wines and links to my prior postings about these wines:

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White (#742): “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.” This was a very light white with interesting flavors, which evoked a conversation amongst us about the varietals we don’t know.

2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc (#604): “The Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc showcases bright, vibrant aromas of tropical fruit. Guava and grapefruit compliment hints of freshly cut hay and wet stone. Finishes with a racing acidity.” This is one of our collective favorite local Sauvignon Blanc wines.

Today I am presenting the 4 Carmel Valley wines in the order we tasted. 3 have been presented here before, and 1 is new (you can tell by their numbers). As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner. My tasting notes this time are an amalgamation of what I heard during the tasting. Are you ready for the big reveal?

2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#57)

Our Review: Deep garnet in color. Spice, tobacco, black licorice and leather on the nose. Cinnamon, dark fruit, black cherry, black licorice, tobacco and a touch of smoke and leather on the tongue-coating, smooth palate with a woody, dry finish. Chewy tannins. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#889) 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 23% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah

Winery Tasting Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!

Our Review: Lighter garnet than the previous wine, perhaps a touch cloudy. Aromas of intense dark raspberry (that delicious aroma of Cachagua fruit!) and prune; a spice like sandalwood, eucalyptus, or cigar box; and white pepper. Fruitier, packed with dark fruit and chocolate notes with a long finish. Smooth and tasty, less tannic than the previous wine.   March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate Grown, Saunders Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $80 (#239*)

Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points.  “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020

Our Review: Dark garnet with hints of brown in the glass. A pretty nose of brambleberry, cassis, slightly floral, bakery yeast and “a fat crème de violet.”  Fruity flavors of blueberry, intense cassis, and sour cherry, checked by earth and green notes. Slightly acidic and alcoholic attributes. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $90 (#953)

Winery Tasting Notes: “A beast of a cab, truly a bada$$. Think Jack Reacher from the books, not Tom Cruise in the movies. This brute has a deep, dark core of sophistication that reveals its identity with time. Black currants, huckleberry, and horehound licorice with great density on the palate and fully ripened tannins. My recommendation is to lay it down for a few years while it evolves into a peaceful warrior.”

Our Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries on the nose with floral and herbal hints combined with notes of smoke, wood and plastic. The palate says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” with beautiful, chalky, and smooth flavors of dark fruit, coffee, and smoke. The finish goes on forever. Perhaps our favorite amongst favorites. March 2023

I hope you enjoyed this post. Please give me feedback by leaving a comment!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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