I had never heard of Austin Harlow so it was time for us to get educated! There were 9 wines on the tasting menu with 2 options: half flight for $10 and full flight for $20. Now, that’s enticing! We chose a half flight, so I still need to go back and try his other wines.
Bill Austin was in the tasting room that Friday afternoon, so we had a chance to talk a bit. We learned about how he sources his grapes, including managing and farming one of the Hollister vineyards himself. Other local vineyards are well known to us, including Zabala Vineyards down in Arroyo Seco AVA and Manzoni Estate Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. He prides himself on bringing quality wines in attractive and fun bottles at reasonable prices. This is a sentiment echoed by several of his neighboring vintners and one of the reasons I admire Monterey/Central Coast wines.
“Drawing grapes from some of the finest vineyards in California, Austin Harlow Winery prides themselves in showcasing some of the best wines being produced in the area.”
“Austin Harlow Winery was established in 2014 by Bill Austin of Monterey Peninsula, a long time wine enthusiast. The flagship brand is “Mid Life Crisis Wines”, officially released in March 2015. Drawing grapes from some of the best vineyards in California, the Mid Life Crisis Wines offer both intense and complex flavors at a great value. The Mid Life Crisis lineup consists of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel (from a vineyard planted in 1935), a San Benito County Zinfandel, a Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon (from grapes planted in the Clements Hill region), a Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Pinot Noir (from an appellation considered to be one of the best in the world), and Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Chardonnay.
“All of the Mid Life Crisis Wines have been patiently aged in small, French and American oak barrels of the highest quality and then bottle aged for one year so that they are delicious immediately upon release, but they also will increase in complexity with additional bottle age…
“…Did you ever taste a $60 or $80 bottle of wine for under half the price?! Mid Life Crisis Wines are truly luxury wines at affordable prices.”
My Review: This was the last wine we tasted – after we had the bigger reds. My apologies, but I have no notes. My recollection is that it was representative of the region. June 2023
My Review: Dark garnet in color. Intense dark berries on the palate with bright red fruit (red currant) on the finish. We all thought this very young wine, with more time in the bottle, has the potential to be a very good wine. June 2023
The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us. There is always something surprising to taste. And the most recent one in March was no exception. It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting. In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality. Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.
I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely. Then comes the great part: deciding which wines we will take home!
I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)
Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program. We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023
2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.
“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”
My Review: Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.
“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”
My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.
“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”
My Review: 112-year-old vines! Garnet in color. Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”
“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”
My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.
“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice. A bright palate with cranberry notes. It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.
“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
As we were driving out to Carmel Valley to select wines for the Carmel Rotary event in February, we hatched this idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to host a blind tasting of Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons? We ran the idea by one of our tasting room favorites, Summer Emmons, at Parsonage. She thought that sounded wonderful and started rattling off wineries which should be included – they were the same ones we had discussed in the car!
When we got home, Mr. H searched our collection to see if he could find wines from a single vintage. The oldest vintage we could find for all those wineries was 2015. And we did call around to try to add some other Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to the mix – but couldn’t get our hands on them.
This was a particularly good, albeit low yield vintage for Carmel Valley wines. As Sal Rombi of Rombi Wines explained to me long ago: Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season. Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious vintage.
The hard part of arranging this event was finding a date that would work for everyone we wanted in the room. In the end, we pushed it out to March – and even then, lost a couple of participants. But it was the right group for the experience. In the room was the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod, Summer Emmons of Parsonage, and Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos.
There was much anticipation and preparation for this event. The hardest part was the wine glasses: first, finding 7 sets of glasses in which all 4 glasses were the same, and then getting all the spots off the glasses. The amount of glassware reminded me of the time we tested Parsonage’s COVID wine tasting procedures – it was a lot of glassware, prompting them to change their plan.
The wines were all decanted at the same time. Not all our decanters were the same shape, but it was the closest we could come. And the wines were carefully pre-poured by Mr. H, a 2-ounce our of each of the 4 wines for each participant. Only he knew which wine was which and the order was mostly random. And only he and I knew exactly which wines were included in the mix, including the fact that one was a red blend. We also carefully planned the food pairings, with salami, cheeses, and a bit of dark chocolate to match the Cabernet Sauvignons.
Then the fun began. We used the tèr·ra·ve·nos tasting sheet to rate the wines. In general, we looked at and smelled each wine before we tasted them. We analyzed the flavors of each wine one-by-one. Since we didn’t know which was which, we could be bluntly honest about each one. With such a range of palates, we heard many descriptors…memorable ones…and we agreed that one of the wines – what we learned later was the red blend – tasted vastly different from the others. We did do an informal ordering of our preferences, with Wine #4 slightly edging out these other fine wines. This was a super fun format and we will do this again. Why not try this with your friends?
We started our evening with antipasto and 2 local whites: 2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White and 2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc. Here are winery notes on these two wines and links to my prior postings about these wines:
2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White (#742): “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.” This was a very light white with interesting flavors, which evoked a conversation amongst us about the varietals we don’t know.
2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc (#604): “The Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc showcases bright, vibrant aromas of tropical fruit. Guava and grapefruit compliment hints of freshly cut hay and wet stone. Finishes with a racing acidity.” This is one of our collective favorite local Sauvignon Blanc wines.
Today I am presenting the 4 Carmel Valley wines in the order we tasted. 3 have been presented here before, and 1 is new (you can tell by their numbers). As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner. My tasting notes this time are an amalgamation of what I heard during the tasting. Are you ready for the big reveal?
2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#57)
Our Review: Deep garnet in color. Spice, tobacco, black licorice and leather on the nose. Cinnamon, dark fruit, black cherry, black licorice, tobacco and a touch of smoke and leather on the tongue-coating, smooth palate with a woody, dry finish. Chewy tannins. March 2023
2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#889) 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 23% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah
Winery Tasting Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!
Our Review: Lighter garnet than the previous wine, perhaps a touch cloudy. Aromas of intense dark raspberry (that delicious aroma of Cachagua fruit!) and prune; a spice like sandalwood, eucalyptus, or cigar box; and white pepper. Fruitier, packed with dark fruit and chocolate notes with a long finish. Smooth and tasty, less tannic than the previous wine. March 2023
Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points. “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020
Our Review: Dark garnet with hints of brown in the glass. A pretty nose of brambleberry, cassis, slightly floral, bakery yeast and “a fat crème de violet.” Fruity flavors of blueberry, intense cassis, and sour cherry, checked by earth and green notes. Slightly acidic and alcoholic attributes.March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “A beast of a cab, truly a bada$$. Think Jack Reacher from the books, not Tom Cruise in the movies. This brute has a deep, dark core of sophistication that reveals its identity with time. Black currants, huckleberry, and horehound licorice with great density on the palate and fully ripened tannins. My recommendation is to lay it down for a few years while it evolves into a peaceful warrior.”
Our Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries on the nose with floral and herbal hints combined with notes of smoke, wood and plastic. The palate says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” with beautiful, chalky, and smooth flavors of dark fruit, coffee, and smoke. The finish goes on forever. Perhaps our favorite amongst favorites. March 2023
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I was trying to come up with a place for the March monthly wine tasting for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society when my neighbor dropped by a Shale Canyon tasting menu. She had been working there for a while and we thought this might be fun to do together! I am a fan of Shale Canyon wines and have written about them a couple of times – just search “Shale Canyon” in the search bar. Their space seems small, so we went back and forth with the owners to determine a maximum capacity – and put it on the calendar. In early March, the Monterey AWS members turned out in force (right up to the limit!) and everyone had a great time.
About Shale Canyon from their website: “Shale Canyon Wines started vinting small lots of hand crafted varietals in 2008…Currently Shale Canyon Wines is comprised of Keith Prader, the winemaker, and Tim Prader tasting room and vineyard manager.
Many thanks to Keith Prader, co-owner and winemaker, plus his knowledgeable, hardworking and fun staff, Janice and Alicia!
“Current production is about 1000+ cases per year with our main focus on producing wines that have outstanding nose, mouth feel and finish. For the Estate wines we are currently growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre. We source fruit from larger, well established vineyards whose farming practices are exemplary in the industry and whose fruit is second to none. The varietals include Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay and Petite Sirah. We enjoy making classic and unique blends as well . Our Consortium is a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The Striation is 75% Zinfandel and 25% Mourvèdre, a wonderful floral wine. And Amalgamation, a very interesting blend of Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. Quality is our main goal. Quantity is always secondary. We hope you try and enjoy our wines!”
Today I am presenting 10 Shale Canyon wines. Some of these wines have been presented here before, but this was an opportunity to revisit a few of them, with a little input from our AWS members. As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner.
2019 Shale Canyon Chardonnay, Vigna Monte Nero, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $25 (#498)
Winery Notes: “Aromas of toasted marshmallow, subtle green apple, pear, peach and a hint of lemon peel. A long finish of vanilla bean and butterscotch. This wine was not cold stabilized or filtered and has noticeable tartrates in the bottle. We recommend pouring this wine through a cheesecloth or a screen to remove them. Aged in 100% French oak.” Naturally fermented. 165 cases produced.
My Review: Golden in color. Butter and yeasty notes on the nose. Tropical palate of pineapple, peach, and a touch of caramel. Nicely balanced and delicious. A great price for an SLH Chardonnay! March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “Rose petals and cinnamon on the bouquet with cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry gracing the middle. A very long finish with vanilla bean and hint of licorice. Medium plus tannins to make this an excellent wine for food pairings.”
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Aromas of strawberry. Smooth and rich on the palate. Dark, intense tobacco and Mourvèdre enveloping the dark cherry flavors. March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “Our award-winning varietal starts with aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral. Distinguished flavors of dark cherry, blueberry, and cassis envelope the middle. The finish of leather, vanilla and medium firm tannins complete the experience of our flagship wine.” Best of Show, Best of Class.
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Sweet blackberry on the nose. Smooth and yummy palate of dark, lean fruit. Very balanced. My favorite of the day. I have selected this wine for an upcoming DC wine class! March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “This unique blend is like no other!…All Estate Grown! The color of this wine is beautiful. Take a glass out in the sun and let the rays reflect through the wine onto a simple piece of white paper and you will see what I mean. A lovely floral bouquet starts the experience. Deep fruit with cherry, dark berry and a hint of color. Long finish with tobacco and firm tannins. This wine will also compliment rich foods so fire up the barbeque and pull out the rib eyes!”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Vegetal notes on the nose, like caramelized onions with a touch of Creme de Cassis. A jamminess follows through on the palate, but, tonight, this tasted a bit sharp. This wine is usually a household favorite, so I definitely want to revisit it as a stand-alone. March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “Subtle berry & cherry bouquet. Flavors of black cherry, plum and cranberry grace the middle. A touch of spice and leather with firm structures tannins on the finish.” 100% Tempranillo.
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. SweetTart on the nose. Dark, lean fruit on the palate. A very nice wine. March 2023.
Winery Notes: “ZSM is a complex blend of varietals. On the nose you will get bright berry fruit with a touch of violet. The middle is full of dark fruit, predominantly blueberry, followed by raspberry and huckleberry. On the very long finish you will get a whisp of smokiness from the newer oak barrels, firm tannins and notes of vanilla.” (“Let’s see what we got”)
My Notes: Yummy nose, rich palate, fruity and very balanced. This was a top favorite of the evening’s participants – everyone seemed to like this wine.
2018 Shale Canyon Petite Sirah, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, $35 (#949)
Winery Tasting Notes: “The nose on this is fruit, dark fruit, and lots of it. Blueberries, plums, blackberry, black tea and chocolate on the palate. Medium to firm tannins. 100% Petite Sirah.”
My Review: By now, it was very late in the tasting. Very smooth and rich with blue and black berry fruits. In one word: yummy. March 2023
Winery Notes: “A very nice bouquet of berries and cherry. The flavors that really stand out are dark berry, current, raspberry with a touch of plum and tart cherry. A smooth finish of licorice with mild tannins and a hint of chocolate.”
My Review: It was extremely late in the evening, but I wanted to taste this anyway. Cooked, dark fruit dominated the palate. Definitely need to retaste this wine. March 2023
Winery Notes: “A bouquet of dark berry, violet and earthy aromas of black pepper, thyme and a hint of citrus. Bright fruit characteristics, with fresh strawberry, raspberry and subtle cherry. Smooth tannins with hints of cedar and a drawn-out finish with late fruit. 100% Mourvèdre.”
My Review: Aromas of Scotch (!). (OK, like I said above, it is late in the tasting…) The palate was delicious – intense berries and balanced. We liked it. March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “A classic blend of Bordeaux varietals. There is a distinctive cherry note on the nose. It is very elegant, yet a complex wine with black berry, dark cherry and raspberry on the palate. It has a long finish with wisps of cedar, vanilla and silky tannins.”
My Review: Beautiful ruby color. Smooth, dark berries and mild baking spice on the nose. Nice. March 2023
Winery Notes: “Strong aromas of dark berries, black currant and a little cedar. This wine has flavors of blackberry, blue berry and cranberry. A long finish with a hint of smoke, toast and silky tannins completes the tasting experience. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.”
My Review: Pretty ruby in color. The nose was a mix of vegetal and berry jam notes. Rich and delicious on the palate. March 2023
Visit Shale Canyon’s Tasting Room! You can try Shale Canyon wines ($20 and $25 tastings) at their tasting room on Paseo San Carlos Courtyard, Westside San Carlos between Ocean and 7th, Carmel-by-the-Sea. Their Spring hours are Monday-Thursday 1–4pm; Friday 1-7; Saturday 12-7; Sunday 1 – 5 and suggest reservations for parties of 6 or more. You can contact them at reservations@shalecanyonwines.com.
Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events. This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco. That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases. While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.
I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines. There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!
I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)
Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.
“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.
“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020
Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot
Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.
“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.
“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”
My Review: Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose. Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red. September 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)
Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard: Super bright. Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley. Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.
“Tasting Notes: Amazingly balanced! Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple. Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”
My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022
2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip.
“Tasting Notes: Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”
My Review: Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass. Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022
2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.
“Tasting Notes: The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose. A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty. As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900)
Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.
“Tasting Notes: Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf. The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon. This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes. Good structure. A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)
My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.
Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I was thumbing through past issues of Wine Spectator on their way to the recycle bin, hunting for articles and reviews of Central Coast wines. One wine kept jumping out at me – Carol Shelton’s Coquille Blanc from Paso Robles. I remembered I had the 2020 vintage to write up and thought it might be a perfect time also to share the wine we had at Thanksgiving, the 2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir from Mount Harlan in San Benito County. In addition, I’ve had the 2017 Odonata Spiketail (Santa Lucia Highlands) and the 2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera (Carmel Valley) on my list. The great thing is that all of these wines came from our own wine room. Which is why it is always nice to have a plentiful supply of our very own Central Coast wines right at home!
Today I am presenting 4 Central Coast wines. Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment, share what wine you had for Thanksgiving dinner, or simply “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!
I joinedCarol Shelton’s wine club during the pandemic and we have been pleasantly surprised! We met her ages ago at a Zinfandel Advocates and Producers event in Washington, DC. Over the years, our neighbors would share her wines with me. I really don’t know why it took us so long to become part of Carol’s Bunch!
About This Wine: “We originally created the 2008 version of this wine to celebrate our 10th anniversary as a winery in 2010. With the exotic complexity and food friendliness of a white Rhône-style blend, it is a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. It is the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish, as well as chicken or pork dishes with buttery-creamy sauces. *Coquille is pronounced “ko-keel” and it is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms.” 931 cases produced – sold out!
Winery Notes: “Enticing nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit…100% barrel fermented, then stirred weekly for 5mos About 10% finished malolactic fermentation…”
My Review: Classic white Rhône nose, nectarine. Bright acidity balanced by a touch of sweetness. Nice tropical flavors of pineapple and pear on the palate, with a lime twist on the finish. Exceptional for a warm, summer day. September 2022
2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mount Harlan AVA, San Benito County, 13.95% ABV, $79 (#874)
I picked up this wine in 2019 when I took my girlfriends to explore Hollister wines. We took a picnic lunch and sat outside at one of their picnic benches with our flights of wines in the 90+ degree heat. It was a very special time – we were welcomed so warmly and treated so well by the winery staff. While I am not a big Pinot Noir fan, this one blew me away.
About This Wine: “Calera’s Mt. Harlan Vineyards are located in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles east of the Monterey Bay. The site was chosen for its limestone soils and ideal climate. At an average elevation of 2,200 feet it is among the highest and coolest vineyard sites in California.” You can read more about Mt. Harlan AVA here: https://www.calwineries.com/explore/regions/san-benito-county/mount-harlan.
Winemaker’s Notes: “Once again, de Villiers has produced one of Calera’s most voluptuous and dark-fruited expressions of Pinot Noir, with alluring aromas of blackberry, cassis and cedary cigar box. On the palate, lush dark berry and black currant flavors are supported by a firm tannic backbone that frames the fruit and carries the wine to a long, energetic finish.” Wine Advocate: 95 points.
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Hard cinnamon candies, cherry juice, pomegranate extract and a touch of balsamic vinegar combine for sharp, nose-tickling aromas on this organically grown wine from pioneering vintner Josh Jensen. The flavor-forward palate explodes with dark fruits, noticeable tannins and solid acidity, showing allspice, Vietnamese coffee and black tea elements.” Matt Kettmann, July 2015
My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Soft berry and dark plum on the nose. Nice juicy palate with some bitter tannins/tobacco on the finish. December 2022
We picked up this 2017 vintage with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod during our first visit to Odonata in 2021 when we got their shortly before closing time. We revisited with our daughter in 2022 as the single wine tasting stop, which I would highly recommend. Eric hosted us both times and shared much information on the wines, always appreciated. You can learn more at the Odonata website.
Winery Notes: “Offering copious aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, strawberries, licorice and roasted herbs. Bright acidity, beautiful density, and full-bodied opulence.” 120 cases produced.
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Dark berry jam on the nose. Low key palate of jammy berry flavors – this is one delicious wine. June 2022
I picked up this wine in August 2021 while doing a birthday wine tasting afternoon with a key Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member. As I recall, they did not have it open for tasting, but I had recalled really liking this wine in the past. Their tasting room is small yet very welcoming – I miss their COVID parklet!
About This Wine: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest. With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.” 462 cases produced.
Winery Tasting Notes: “Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Mocha, dark berries and alcohol on the nose. Very cherry on the palate. Crushed cranberries and berries linger on the lively palate. September 2022
I was tipped off by our Wine Pod partners that I Brand was having a release party in late June – the first one since COVID made its unwelcome arrival in Monterey County. We made a quick plan to carpool there.
We have been to several past release parties where members and fans get to sample newly-released good wine, paired appetizers, and great music. In short, really fun. There were a lot of wines to try on this Sunday – some on the release menu – plus a number of library wines hidden in between. It was kind of overwhelming – in a good way! I felt rushed at first – and then just slowed down and got in the groove. We enjoyed the sliders, the pizzas, and the gourmet popsicles! And more wine. I truly appreciated the library wines, as a great counterbalance to the new releases. These wines demonstrated the staying power of Ian’s wines – and made the case for holding onto more of his wines – which are so tempting to consume right away. Thank you so much, Ian, Heather, and the rest of the I Brand Family, for making this event possible once again.
I have 14 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan – most tasted at the release party. I have presented the 2 Grenache wines before. And I added in a Syrah from our private collection. There was a lot going on at this event and we were moving a bit quickly, so I didn’t get the detailed tasting notes I might usually capture. I did go back to the tasting room in July to polish up a few of my notes – where I also got to taste the 2016 52-month Chardonnay – a bonus review for us at the very bottom of this post! Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.
Winemaker’s Notes: “A perfect summer sipper. Our Piquette Nat from California is Col Fondo process, an easy drinking blend of organic Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flowers.”
My Review: Made from Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flower, this looks like a Brut rose, smells like licorice, and, to me, tastes yeasty like a fruity beer. Very popular and different. June 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, San Benito County, $30 (#781)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Ranier cherries and lemon-thyme on the nose. Pink grapefruit and cara-cara orange lead the attack on the palate. Lingering tannin structure balanced with medium acidity and distinctive minerality contribute to a bright and festive Summer glass, perfectly suited for a wide array of food pairings.”
My Review: An orange wine – the wax on the bottle is a huge hint! Year over year, this is an excellent wine, light on the palate, crisp and tasty. We like this wine. June 2022
2021 La Marea Alternate Cut Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, $30 (#782)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”
My Review: Honeysuckle and citrus rind on the nose. Slightly funky palate of buttermilk and citrus rind, with a lingering creamy finish. The alternate cut makes for a heavier mouthfeel to this ever so slightly sweet Albariño. June 2022
2014 Le P’tit Paysan L’Apiculteur Cedar Lane Vineyard Viognier, Arroyo Seco AVA, $42 (#783)
Winemaker’s Notes from wine.com: “Late ripening Viognier from the alluvial benches above the Arroyo Seco River fermented in a combination of stainless steel, neutral barrels and twice used barrels. Soaring honeysuckle aromas, flavors of pear and crushed stones, partial malolactic fermentation for focus and composition.”
My Review: This “library” Viognier was a bonus wine – this is an excellent representation of Central Coast Viognier – honeysuckle yet lean. The age on this bottle made it more complex and interesting. June 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, Paicines, San Benito County, $30 (#784)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Jasmine flower and lilac on the nose. Dried apricot and quince lead the attack on the palate. Medium to full body finishes with notes of bergamot.” 133 cases produced
My Review: Another atypical varietal that Ian likes to work with. This is the second vintage of this wine that I have tried. This one is really special – a funky, earthy nose, followed by a light and tasty palate, especially after tasting the library Viognier. June2022
2021 Le P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, 13.7% ABV, $24 (#785)
About LPP Sauvignon Blanc : “Paysan Sauvignon Blanc comes from Zabala Vineyard – located on a large holding on the Arroyo Seco floodplains that was part of land granted to the Zabala family before California’s statehood. It was first planted in the 1970s and has grown to encompass over 1000 acres. Zabala Vineyard is one of the rockiest vineyard I Brand works with, full of what is locally known as ‘Greenfield Potatoes’, which are the rather inedible round river stones that dominate the soil and have been collected into piles and walls at every property in the basin. This vineyard is located directly in the path of the daily Salinas Valley winds, which control sugar development and retain natural acidity. Certified organic grapes.”
Winemaker’s Notes: “The bouquet is an explosion of white peaches, gooseberries and perfumy passionfruit. This translates over to the palate with more gorgeous and concentrated white peach bursting to the front and evolving into hints of trailside strawberry. Bright acidity. Crisp, tart and refreshing. Lingering finish that has a subtle creaminess returning to tropical passionfruit.” 145 cases produced
My Review: The LPP Sauvignon Blanc comes from one of my favorite vineyards in Arroyo Seco. Very pale in the glass. Yummy butterscotch and tropical notes on the nose. A flavorful palate dominated by lime cloaked in honeysuckle, with a citrusy, buttery finish. Very balanced and tasty. June 2022
2019 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $20 (#786)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality. The wine is produced predominantly from a few vineyards at the base of Jack’s Hill, planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of the Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North.”
My Review: From our home collection. Pale golden in color. Tropical bouquet of pineapple and honeydew. Palate brimming with soft pineapple, with citrus notes. This is one of my favorite central coast everyday Chardonnays – def not buttery, oaky. June 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.67% ABV, $36 (#787)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Smoked chestnuts leading into dark cherry-cola on the nose. Ripe red fruits abound in the form of Bing cherries and Santa Rosa plum. Light body with very mellow tannin structure and soft glycerin finish which lingers and fades into petrichor.” 62 cases produced
My Review: Translucent, dark ruby in the glass. Dark cherry on the nose and very smooth and tasty dark cherry on the palate. I prefer this to the previous vintage! June 2022
2014 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, San Antonio Valley, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#788)
89 points – Wine Enthusiast : “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins.” Matt Kettmann 6/2018
My Review: The grapes for this library wine come from Pierce Ranch – and this is a delicious wine. Another reason to hold your I Brand wines. I would rate this higher than Wine Enthusiast did back in 2018. One of the wines I took home with me from this tasting! June 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 12.4% ABV, $45 (#789)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Saddle leather, and ripe huckleberries on the nose. Wild blueberries lead the attack on the palate transitioning into gorgeous and concentrated red ddelicious apple notes contributing to a bright and lingering finish. Medium to light body with pronounced yet balanced tannins finishes with redwood duff.” 34 cases produced
My Review: OK, this was another favorite from the release party. Light cherry and pepper notes on the nose, following through on the palate. Grapey, smooth and delicious. One of the finest Mourvèdres I have ever had. Took one home. June 2022
2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#635)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromas of red fruit about in this ripe and silky grenache with flinty undertones. Bright acidity leads the way on the palate allowing the lovely, light red fruit shine in the form of overripe strawberries and loganberries. California anise, white pepper, and mild tannins finish neatly.” 440 cases produced
My Review: With grapes from Monterey and Santa Clara, this one gets the Central Coast label. A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass. Cherry, cranberry on the nose. Dances on the palate with smooth cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021, June 2022
2014 La Marea Brosseau Vineyard Grenache, Chalone AVA, $68 (#636)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.” 124 cases produced
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose. This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish. These library wines show the staying power of Ian Brand’s wines – we loved them all. A hint to hold them a bit longer. December 2021, June 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Escolle Vineyard Gamay Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#790)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Telicherry peppercorn and carraway seed lead the bouquet, evolving into spiced black plum notes. The peppery and spice plum carries over to the palate attack and the finish is short, but exquisitely spicy for a light to medium bodied and chillable red. Pronounced yet balanced tannins. Finishes with notes of California garrigue; think sagebrush, manzanita and mugwort.” 95 cases produced
My Review: Oh, the Gamay Noir! What a way to top off the afternoon! Ruby, almost purple in the glass. Very grapey nose. Grapey, smooth, jammy, good! I took one of these wines home, too! The challenge will be to hold it and not just open it and drink it. June 2022
2018 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, $42 (#791)
Winemaker’s Notes: The Graff Family Vineyard “…is a small 3 acre vineyard planted in 1989 to Syrah, Mourvedre and Melon de Bourgogne. The site has depleted, granitic soils and, combined with the elevation and exposure, it’s a perfect situation for producing deep, funky, expressive American Syrah.” 39 cases produced
My Review: From our private collection. Dark ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Red fruits on the palate. This isn’t a huge Syrah – a bit lighter and more elegant, refreshing and tasty. Very nice on day 2. May 2022
2016 I Brand & Family 52-month Chardonnay, Monterey, 15% ABV (#792)
Winemaker’s Notes: 52-months in a steel tank. Aged in the bottle one year before release. “Delicate & oxidative aromas similar to a beautiful Fino sherry. Palate confirms aromatics. Nutty entry, candied pineapple & ripe tangerines on initial & mid-palate. Finishes with warm marzipan, toasted cinnamon, anie & cloves. Searing acidity throughout.” 41 cases produced
My Review: I am not sure I would have guessed this was a Chardonnay. Toasted pineapple notes on the nose and palate, but an almost fortified or Sauternes-like quality on the finish – butterscotch and pineapple. July 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
I was on the road this spring quite a bit and did not make the tasting room rounds – until late in June, when we went on a tasting streak in a single long weekend! While I was busy traveling, I sometimes sought the easy post to fulfill the weekly blog. And I have neglected some of the bigger tastings I did in the winter. As I look back, I recall I did not post my February 2022 I Brand tasting because I had another catchup post in the works. I recently attended their first release party in a couple of years – and realized there were quite a few other wines I needed to write about first. So, I am halting the presses on my more recent flurry of tastings for this catch-up post!
I distinctly remember this tasting – when we met Will for the first time in the tasting room. It was so nice to put a face with the new name and he warmly welcomed us. We tried to move quickly through the wines, as we were just in the neighborhood and had not planned a full tasting – we got one anyway!
I have 12 wines (zounds!) to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2016-2020. Most of these come from my February tasting, but others were from our private collection. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.
While the wines speak for themselves, I’d like to include this quote from Ian’s Spring 2022 Winemaker Letter, which hit home why I remain a fan of Ian and his wines. He talks about his “…fascination with old vineyards and more obscure varieties.” He goes on to say, “To appropriately shepherd the local winemaking industry into its best iteration, there needs to be a semi-cohesive idea of what a region is – there should be an expected balance and flavor profile shared in the wines from the region…As we are able to realize and share our ideas of our terroir, wines from the region will become more valuable, which leads to more value in our community.” You can red more about Ian and Heather Brand and their wines here: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/.
2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 12.2% ABV, $30 (#741)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A fresh and delicious ‘orange wine’ from mature, terraced Pinot Gris grapes on the oldest, continually producing commercial vineyard in California.”
My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $36 (#742)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.”
My Review: Straw in the glass and sweet muscat and honeysuckle on the nose. The palate was not as sweet as the nose predicted, with decent tartness with a light, slightly sweet finish. Quite refreshing – I kind of liked it! February 2022
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#743)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A pure, fresh, minerality driven, Chablis like Chardonnay blend from Jacks Hill on the Central Coast…Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA…planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North. Bright, crisp and clean with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality.”
92 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.” *Editors’ Choice* Matt Kettmann (2/2019)
My Review: Pale yellow in color. Honeydew melon on the nose. Honey and gardenia on the palate, with lime notes on the finish. April 2022.
2018 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 13% ABV, $22 (#744)
90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Tight and brisk aromas of lemon peel and sandstone come through on the nose of this always fairly priced bottling. It’s soft on the palate in texture, but a wet stone minerality and lemon juice acidity provide tension, with dried pear and orange peel flavors showing as well.” Matt Kettmann
My Review: A touch leaner than previous vintages with a little acidity on the finish. February 2022
2019 La Marea and 2017 Besson Old Vines Grenache – Side by Side!
2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#745)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fresh, medium bodied Grenache from three rocky vineyards averaging over 50 years of age.”
My Review: A muddy ruby, richer in color than othis other Grenaches – almost purple. Good cherry fruits on the palate. February 2022
2017 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, $42 (#746)
94 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Sage-oil, tea-leaf and geranium notes meet with dried strawberry and rose petal on the spicy, earthy nose of this bottling. The palate is a mix of dried flowers and rocky minerality, with flavors of gravel, dried currant and more tea leaf making for a fascinating sip of century- old vines.” Matt Kettmann
My Review: Light, translucent ruby in color, but richer, more tannic flavors.February 2022
2016 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, 14% ABV, $42 (#747)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”
My Review: Dark, translucent ruby in color. Dark berries and smooth tannins on the palate. IMHO, one of his best Grenache wines. March 2022
2018 I Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone AVA, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#748) 72% Grenache, 28% Syrah
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Mandarin orange and cherry notes on the nose. Palate had more heft, complexity than usual. Hands down one of our favorite of his Grenache-Syrah blends. May 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#749)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc…Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components, envelope the nose. On the palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.” 109 cases produced.
My Review: Lean, a bit austere with musty flavors. February 2022 February 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV, $30 (#750)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Reminiscent of old world wine making Bayly Ranch is an etherial expression of Cabernet Franc. Notes of bright berries and mild spices…”
My Review: Richer, rounder, chewier that the Bates, with cherry and dark berry flavors. Black pepper on the finish. I prefer this wine; my partner prefers the Bates. February 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Fellom Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#751)
Winemaker’s Notes: “First planted in the 40s and abutting the classic Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain property, Fellom Ranch produces among the most sought after grapes in California…Deep dark purple. Aromas of black current, cherries, clove spice, toasted oak, and cocoa. On the palate, lush & ripe, bramble fruit, enters med-full bodied, supple tannin and acid tension structure. Lovely wine, with pleasure to fill the palate, today, and years to come.”
My Review: Ruby, purple in the glass. Some chocolate notes on the nose with smooth, rich berries on the palate. I will do my best to hold this for an appropriate drinking time frame. February 2022
2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, $22 (752)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.”
93 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This blend of 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre speaks so strongly to the terroir of the Central Coast as it is loaded from nose to finish with dewy sagebrush, crisp freshness and peppery spice. It begins with aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and herb, then settles comfortably into a firmly textured palate of oregano, pepper, sandalwood and more red fruit.” Matt Kettmann
My Review: We tasted this wine out of order. Lovely, light, lean yet good. Always a favorite. February 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
A year ago, we went to Odonata with the more senior part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod. We have been saying ever since that we needed to go back when it was the only tasting of the day. While we failed to get the senior partners together, we were able to go back with our daughter, a Decanting Monterey junior plank holder, in March.
We started with a challenging game of corn hole; then we got down to business. Eric hosted us once again and proceeded to march us through their wines. Meanwhile, some lovely women, who just wanted a glass of rosé, sat at a nearby table. Eric had no rosé to offer and instead gave them a proper wine education and tasting, while continuing to pour for us. He shifted his approach with us to a game we like to call “mystery wine” – guess the varietal. Our tasting took 2 hours and we left with a case of wine, including some for my upcoming Northern Virginia AWS wine class! Thank you so much for the industry recognition – it is deeply appreciated!
These lovely women became an extension of our afternoon tasting at Odonata!
About Odonata: “Odonata offers an eclectic selection of wines from grapes sourced from our Estate and other local vineyards. The focus is quality and sustainability throughout the wine making process from the selection of the Vineyards, through production, to the finished product. The Vineyards are farmed organic, or SIP (sustainable in practice) Certified.
“While production is small by industry standards, the number of wines is extensive. This small lot principle enables Odonata to focus on consistent high-quality instead of high-volume.
“With our small lot production only a selection of our wines are available at any one time and these are frequently changing, so be sure to purchase them before they are gone.”
Today I am reviewing 15 wines, including 1 previously reviewed. Winery notes come from their webpage above, where you can also purchase their wines.
Winery Notes: “This fizz is floral with a subtle spiciness on the nose, pretty fruit in the mouth with tiny bubbles. This sparkler is fun as a pre-dinner delight or paired with exotic food like Thai, Sushi, etc… Bubbles are for every day, enjoy!”
My Review: Golden in the glass. Apple cider and grilled pineapple on the nose. A bit of yeastiness tamps down the sweetness of the apple. March 2022
Winery Notes: “Farmed with the Silacci family right down the street from the winery. This is fruit is crisp apple supported by a generous boost of new French oak. California inspired Chardonnay, with a crisp mineral core.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Nice tropical notes on the nose. Up front oak mellowed out into a nice wine with a punch of lime flavors on the mid-palate. March 2022
Winery Notes: “Cherry fruit, cola, and subtle spices on the nose. Dense forrest floor, and hints of wild strawberry on the palate.”
My Review: Bright cherry red in the glass. The palate reveals the fruit with berry flavors. A bit metallic. Tannins balance the red fruit with peppery spices. March 2022
2018 Odonata Pinot Noir, Falcon Hill, Santa Cruz County, 14.1 ABV, $42 (#664)
Winery Notes: “This wine is elegant with viscous cherry, subtle spice and pleasurable texture.”
My Review: Darker cherry in the glass. While light in body, richer in flavor across the board than the previous wine. Red cinnamon notes. We preferred this wine. March 2022
Winery Notes: “An exquisite nose of raspberries and spice that draw you into the glass. This wine was fermented with 14% whole cluster, to create complexity and better mouthfeel!”
My Review: Bright, rich ruby in the glass. We are now heading toward medium bodied reds. Very balanced on the palate with cherry flavors. We liked this wine. March 2022
2019 Odonata Cote du Denis Malbec, et, Hollister, San Benito County, 13.5% ABV, $28 (#666)94% Malbec, 4% Viognier
Winery Notes: “Malbec co-fermented with 4% Viognier. Adds balanced tannin, and pushes floral notes!”
My Review: So pretty in the glass with vibrant red and purple colors (cranberry and plum). Plum and currant ( grape Bubblelicious) on the nose. Juicy and smooth on the palate. My favorite wine of the day. March 2022
Winery Notes: “Vibrant and lively on the nose with alluring nuances of fresh flowers and berry fruits. On the palate you’re treated with pepper herbs, fresh minerality and delightful tannin. The richness and depth of this Grenache erupts with every sip, while conveying texture and balance.”
My Review: Cherry and berry flavors wrapped in cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice flavors. March 2022
2018 Odonata Sangiovese, 14.2% ABV (#667)
Winery Notes: “Strawberries, hints of cinnamon, leather and earth. The palate is round with balanced acidity and tannin.”
My Review: Deeper red in the glass. Very berry with spice and coffee on the nose. Dry on the palate with cranberry, cherry, some tartness. Lean. This was Cassandra’s favorite wine. Of course – she loves a good Chianti! March 2022
Winery Notes: “Cool climate Syrah! Spicy, dense, chewy tannins with black fruit dominate the mouth feel, while the finish lingers with you softly and gently, urging further exploration.”
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Warm dark berries on the nose. Rich berries, mocha, and spice on the finish with a touch of earth. Right up my alley. Selected for one of my classes. March 2022
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Some sweetness on the nose with berry and spice notes. Smooth berries on the palate. I liked this one, too. March 2022
Winery Notes: “Dark and inky in color! The nose is filled with perfumed fruit, spicy blackberry, cassis, and cedar. This wine is rich, fun and vibrant on the palate. Flavors of wild cranberry, licorice, black fruit and finishes with a fresh mouthfeel. With a little more aging the youthful fruit will drop out and bring forward a polished tannic structure. Enjoy now with a 30 minute decant or age it for the next 10 years!”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Lean Cabernet notes on the nose and some cinnamon on the palate. March 2022
2017 Odonata Petite Sirah, Machado Creek Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley, 14% ABV, $28 (#671)
Winery Notes: “Opulent fruit, herbs and spices on the nose. The palate is perfectly balanced with loads of dark fruit, tannin and graphite.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Some mocha on the nose. A big, rich, smooth palate with a dry finish. March 2022
My Review: Rich red ruby in color. Berry on the nose. Very spicy with tangerine notes on the palate. March 2022
2016 Odonata Cabernet Sauvignon, Montebello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains (#673) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
My Review: Rich red ruby with some purple in color. Fresh and some vegetal notes. March 2022
Odonata Late Harvest Zinfandel, Wellong Vineyard, San Antonio Valley, 19% ABV, $25 (#674)
Winery Notes: “Punched down gently throughout the cold soak, fermentation, and maceration totaling 7 days. Pressed to a stainless tank where we added 20 gallons of high-proof alcohol to stop the fermentation and leave this wine with 8% sugar. Finished wine: 19.12% alc., aged in 33% New French Oak
“Sweet berry, mocha, and touch of sage. This is a very balanced expression of Dessert Wine, which allows it to be enjoyed on its own or added to any dessert you like!”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors with some chocolate. Not cloying, just a delicious dessert wine. Would go great with vanilla bean ice cream. March 2022
Visit the Odonata Tasting Room: “Nestled at the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and at the beginning of the River Road wine trail lies the Odonata winery and tasting room. We hope you will stop by our tasting room and sample a selection of our current releases. We are open 7 days a week and no appointments are necessary.” Open Daily 11 am – 5 pm. Located at 645 River Road, Salinas CA, 93908.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I’ve been saving up these reviews for a single I Brand post. One of the things I really like about Ian’s wines is his boldness to expose us to varietals which we might not even have heard of – and to do them very well. The Arneis in this post is one of those – the Melon de Bourgogne was another we really enjoyed. And we tend to enjoy the Grenache wines – a varietal lighter than our normal fare, but one I Brand also does very well. His Cabernet Francs fascinate me – different in style from each other and always just a tad leaner than some of the big Cab Francs we tend to get around here. We’ve also been digging deep into our wine room and found some hidden treasures, like the 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah.
I have 6 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2012-2020 and covering Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.
2020 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $30 (#633*)
We invited our neighbor over to our sunny patio on this January day and decided to try this Arneis, a varietal I did not know!
Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”
My Review: Pale golden yellow in the glass. Bosch pear with orange blossom and lime notes on the nose. Fresh and flinty, it opened up to be a lovely wine with round, flavors of grilled pineapple with a touch of olive juice and lime on the finish. An excellent summer patio wine. January 2022
2019 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#634*)
My Review: Light orange like a lollipop in the glass. Very smooth on the palate with a pleasant tartness on the finish. We liked this wine. October 2021
2017 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $30 (#635*)
Winemaker’s Notes from the Wine Crush: “This Grenache is mostly sourced from Monterey; it is de-stemmed and stainless steel fermented. The color is extremely pale ruby with, clean ripe aromas of both black and red cherry. Notes of sarsaparilla and a delicate restrained earthy quality.”
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bodied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of rosewater and red currant.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020
My Review: A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass. Cherry, cranberry on the nose. Dances on the palate with light cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021
2014 La Marea Grenache, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 14.1% ABV, $38 (#636*)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose. This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish. September 2021
2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.3% ABV, $42 (#637*)
About Bates Ranch: “Bates Ranch, the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains…located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road… We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet Franc planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of the vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components on the nose. On palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.”
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Red fruits on the nose. Smooth and fresh, with a medium palate of raspberry, cherry and plum. This is a lighter, more delicate Cab Franc – a great food wine. January 2022
2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $22 (#638*)
Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Ian Brand’s stab at this grape shows a lot of black rock minerality and bloody meats on the nose, layered across blueberry syrup and sour cherry elements. The palate is much lighter than other takes on this varietal, showing menthol-laced flavors of blackberries and tobacco.” Matt Kettmann, June 2015
My Review: Inky ruby in the glass. Dark plum and blueberry on the nose. Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate, enveloped by a licorice finish. October 2021
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
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