When we were in Carmel Valley wine tasting with an old friend, he asked what the meaning was of the word “sideways,” in the 2004 Alexander Payne directed movie of the same title. He thought it was because wine bottles need to be stored sideways. I hadn’t thought much about it, but suggested maybe because both of the lead characters, Miles (played by Paul Giamatti) and Jack (played by Thomas Haden Church) were sideways in their mid-life crises. I told our friend I would know the answer soon, as I was about to receive a pre-release copy of a new book, “Sideways Uncorked: The Perfect Pairing of Film and Wine.”
I was contacted in September by Barbara Cortlett, Media Outreach for Mira and Kirk Honeycutt, the authors of “Sideways Uncorked,” set to be released on 4 November (can be pre-ordered on Amazon). They included the press release and asked for my address to send me an advanced copy.
We saw the movie “Sideways” for our anniversary when it was first released. The story was engaging – a wild bachelors’ weekend in and around Buellton and Los Olivos with loads of laughs and uncomfortable moments. Each of these men brought their own baggage to the weekend, from Miles’ insecurities egging him to present himself as an expert on Burgundy (Pinot Noir) and as a successful writer about to be published – to Jack’s drive for some final sexual exploits before he ties the knot.
Thinking about the wines I focused on during that visit, if the movie were set today, would Miles have focused on Syrah instead of Pinot or would Syrah have been his Merlot? My husband says, “Absolutely not. There was a lot of bad Merlot being made at that time in California.” And the Syrah from the region is among my favorite. Plus, I think Pinot Noir retains a bit of that snob appeal, going back to its Burgundian roots.
THE BOOK
Just like when I review a wine, I prefer not to read everyone else’s opinions and tasting notes in advance, so I didn’t read the other reviews both in the press release and on the back of the book itself. (See the press release below!) So, I thought it was going to be about the movie. On the contrary, when I first started reading it, I was worried it was only going to be about Pinot Noir, which happens to be one of my least favorite grapes! In actuality, this book weaves together the interesting tales of both: the making of the movie and Pinot Noir’s upsurge in California and Oregon. It has increased my interest in learning more about the grape. And, most importantly, it clarifies the meaning of “sideways.” Inebriated. Let’s not over think it. There you go, Scotty.
MY REVIEW: “Sideways Uncorked” is a fun yet educational read for anyone who enjoyed the 2004 movie, as well as wine afficionados like me interested in learning more about the growth of Pinot Noir winemaking in California and Oregon – and beyond. Authors Kirk Honeycutt and Mira Advani advanced my appreciation of the Pinot Noir grape while giving engaging insights on the making of the movie – from Rex Picket’s initial discovery of The Windmill Inn and The Hitching Post leading to the initial screenplay, to director and co-writer Alexander Payne’s journey in the making of the movie – from obtaining the financing to make the film, and selecting the quirky cast, combining unlikely lead actors (Paul Giammati and Thomas Haden Church) with new faces (Virginia Madsen and Sandra Oh) to create one of the most hilarious yet uncomfortable movies of the time. The book goes on to tell the story of working with Frank Ostini, winemaker and restaurateur of The Hitching Post, and getting the local community on board for this film. The impact on Santa Barbara wine tourism is evident, as is the boost the movie gave to Pinot Noir and the devastating impact on Merlot in the California wine industry. Reading the book brought back many fond memories from watching the movie the first time and re-awakened a desire to watch it again.
“Jaffurs is dedicated to producing fine wine with a New World independence. For over two decades we have specialized in Rhône-style wines from the premier vineyards in Santa Barbara County. All wines are handcrafted at our winery in downtown Santa Barbara, California.”
“Jaffurs Wine Cellars is dedicated to producing great Rhône varietal wines with a New World independence. Our wines – Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre, Viognier, and Roussanne – are among the best in the county. Founder Craig Jaffurs produced his first professional wines during the 1994 harvest. All of our wines are carefully made in small lots. Approximately 5,000 cases are produced each year. We work closely with our growers in the Santa Ynez, Ballard Canyon, Santa Rita Hills, Los Alamos, and Santa Maria regions. We limit vineyard yields and require that optimal farming practices are observed. All of our wines are crushed, pressed, cellared, and bottled in our Santa Barbara facility. Visit us for a glimpse of world class winemaking in the heart of the city. 2018 was our 25th harvest! …”
THE WINES: SANTA BARBARA COUNTY SYRAH
Today I’m bringing you 3 Santa Barbara County Syrahs. Winery notes come from their websites, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2020 Stolpman Vineyards Originals Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#1435)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Originals impresses with its sheer scope: a vast spectrum from lifted to candied red fruit immediately enters into an exotic, forested wilderness. Meaty, smoky umami and sangre awaken the carnal appetite. All of these sensations thrust into overdrive while the wine is young and within a few years the forces will unite into one beautiful being. Certainly one of the most age-worthy wines from the heralded 2020 vintage, which makes sense, as it is the very last cuvee from 2020 to be released. ”
Wine Enthusiast – 97 points: “The 2020 vintage took this bottling from older vines to another level. Light game, plum paste, charred meat and white-pepper aromas lead into a palate of pure meat, roasted elderberry and woodsmoke. The richness is balanced by firm tannins. Drink now–2040.” — Matt Kettmann
My Review: Very dark in the glass. A delicious bouquet of blackberries, buttered popcorn, and dirt. Opened up into a full bodied, yet soft, smooth palate of crushed tart berries, plum and violets with a touch of alcohol on the finish. June and August 2024
2019 Jaffurs Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.9% ABV, $55 (#1436)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Planted across two blocks up the hillsides overlooking Santa Maria Valley, Bien Nacido is our coolest-climate Syrah vineyard. The 2019 is a dark, full-bodied wine showing blackberry, black current, crushed pepper, and violet. Bright acidity and a supple mid-palate texture with mineral tension and a long, saline finish. This is a classic Bien Nacido Syrah that needs 2-3 years in bottle to show at its best and will easily age an additional 10.”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “Tightly wound aromas of blackberry, dried beef, packed purple flowers, and light tar make for a dense though not overly ripe nose on this bottling from the historic vineyard. The wine is also dense and chalky on the palate, with black-fruit and blueberry flavors that are detailed in pepper, soy, and lavender. A comforting hit of vanilla shows on the finish.” — Matt Kettmann
My Review: Dark, rich garnet in the glass, almost purple. Bright crushed berries, rose petal and mocha on the nose. Tongue coating palate of cherry and berry with a complex, menthol finish with a touch of tobacco. This was pretty darn good! I’d like to visit this winery! April & September 2024
2017 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.7 ABV, $37 (#1437)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Dark chocolate, plum, blackberry, vanilla, black pepper, grilled meats, and game are hallmarks of Purisima Mountain Syrah.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “This is a classic expression of Ballard Canyon’s Goldilocks appeal, blending the rich potential of warmer-weather Syrah with cooler-climate freshness. Aromas of black cherry, fudge and even butterscotch lead to a palate were oaky caramel and cappuccino flavors are cut by crisp pepper spice.” — Matt Kettmann
My Review: Very dark in the glass. Blueberry on the nose. Dark and lean on the palate. I liked this wine, despite it not being as fruity as some of our Central Coast Syrahs. July 2024
THE TASTING ROOMS: SANTA BARBARA COUNTY SYRAH
Stolpman Vineyards Tasting Options: Reservations are required for tastings at the winery or at the Los Olivos Patio, which is open daily from 11am to 4pm. $25 Tasting Fee
Jaffurs Wine Cellars winery and tasting room is located at 819 E. Montecito St., Santa Barbara. Open Monday – Sunday 11am to 5:00pm t: (805) 962-7003, e: info@jaffurswine.com
Beckmen Vineyards: “A working vineyard. A country escape.Open Daily 11am – 5pm Our red barn winery, tasting decks, gazebos, and duck ponds overlooking the Thomas & Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard provide an idyllic wine country setting for savoring our handcrafted wines. We invite you to join us for a wine tasting, vineyard and winery tour, bottle service at our gazebos, dock, or pondside lounge, or a private tour and wine tasting.”
Having just read a Wine Spectator article about California Chardonnay, I suggested we make it the theme of our August virtual wine group. Members presented wines from all over California, Oregon and Washington, making it one of our more interesting and classes! I wanted to try the 2023 Diatom Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County, which had been selected as Wine Spectator’s #37 of its top 100 California Chardonnays. After hunting in my local stores, I settled for the 2022 vintage instead – which turned out to be a terrific wine!
“Winemaker Greg Brewer’s primary goal and priority is to deliver the essence of the sustainably farmed estate vineyards as clearly and honestly as possible.
“Each specific winery strives to harness our appellations with the utmost transparency in their own unique style. This objective is to offer the most relevant voice of our estates. While the three labels are corralled by my name, their outcome is ultimately the result of our entire Team whose devotion to every step of the process informs, motivates and inspires…”
About Diatom – by Greg Brewer: “Diatom specializes in one variety— Chardonnay— and is motivated by the pursuit of subtraction and refinement.”
THE WINE:
Today I’m bringing you just one wine. Winery notes come from wine.com. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Diatom Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, 14.5% ABV, $25 (#1433)
Winemaker’s Notes From wine.com: “The 2022 Diatom Santa Barbara Chardonnay offers aromas of lemon, citrus blossom and wet sand with flavors of saline and white peach on the palate. A precise, balanced wine.”
At that same link, you can find many professional reviews for this wine, rated on average 93 points. Here is one of those reviews:
93 Points – Wine Enthusiast: “Fascinating aromas of Asian pear, lime and white rocks create a cohesive combination on the nose of this bottling by Greg Brewer. The palate is tremendously tense and lively, using crushed seashell and yuzu flavors to offset the tropical hints of guava peel and spicy pepper touches.” — Matt Kettmann
My Review: Pale yellow in the glass. A big nose of white peach, honeysuckle, lemon and burnt matchstick, with a hint of pineapple. The full-bodied, ripe fruit palate includes lemon zest and lemon curd. This wine when first opened was lemon, lemon, lemon, but as it warmed slightly and opened up, it became this full-bodied beauty. Very different from our typical Monterey County Chardonnays! We enjoyed this wine all week! A bargain at $25. August 2024
“Our tasting room is located in the town of Los Olivos, California just 45 minutes north of Santa Barbara. We are open by reservation only in order to maximize each guest’s experience.
HOURS OF OPERATION Open Seven Days a Week 10am – 4pm By Reservation Only
ADDRESS – 2367 Alamo Pintado Ave, Los Olivos, CA 93441
Today I am bringing you another “Catchup Monday” – Santa Maria AVA: Home to the Legendary Bien Nacido Vineyard! These ‘catch-up” posts are what I would also call “traditional” Decanting Monterey posts – one wine at a time.
THE STORY
I’m a huge fan of Central Coast Syrah and first had one made from Bien Nacido grapes during a visit to the The Ojai Vineyard back in 2018 which I wrote about here: 2021 Wrap Up #1: from Contra Costa to Santa Maria! It blew my socks off. Now, whenever I see a Syrah made from Bien Nacido grapes, I must try it. A year ago, I had the chance to try Bien Nacido Estate’s own production of a Syrah from their legendary Bien Nacido Vineyard, which I wrote about here: Bien Nacido Estate: First Stop on Our “Sideways” Tour! I brought many Syrahs home from that road trip and they are all gone.
My first exposure to Bien Nacido grapes!
When had the chance to stop at K&L Wine Merchants after dropping our daughter at the airport, I was all in. We really miss our old shop Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC – K&L is the next best thing – so grateful they are here, but I just wish they were a little closer to home. OK, I digress.
At K&L, we were like kids in a candy store. I hunted through their Syrah section (always my first stop – right inside their door) and found this 2018 Bien Nacido Estate Syrah. We opened it in August. As I was doing my research, I noted that the critics have scored the 2019 and 2020 vintages even higher than this one – I will have to look for them!
“The Santa Maria Valley occupies the northern perimeter of Santa Barbara County on California’s Central Coast, which is today recognized as one of the world’s most dynamic wine-growing regions. With an encompassed 7,500 vineyard acres, the Santa Maria Valley is also the Central Coast’s first officially approved American Viticultural Area (AVA).
“The Santa Maria Valley boasts a rare “transverse” geography, an east-west orientation that channels cool ocean air directly into the valley. The result is a Mediterranean climate that produces one of California’s longest growing seasons. The unique growing environment ensures the development of complex, flavorful and exquisitely balanced grapes. Grapes in the region are either grown on the Santa Maria Bench or off the Bench, both wine grapes with completely different and unique flavor profiles. Grape growing in the Santa Maria Valley can be traced back to the early Mexican Colonial period in the 1800s. In 2011, there were 18,790 acres and nine vineyards added to the Santa Maria Valley AVA.
“With its geological oddity and natural funnel-shape, the Santa Maria Valley AVA is bounded by the San Rafael Mountains and Los Padres National Forest to the east and by the Solomon Hills and the city of Santa Maria to the West. The Santa Maria Valley AVA can be explored easily, with 34 tasting rooms within a 30-minute drive. The Santa Maria Valley Wine Trolley is one of the most popular ways to taste the region’s wines. The Trolley makes a loop to some of the area’s tasting rooms every weekend from May to October. Winos can also cruise through the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail, which is home to 14 tasting rooms.”
You can explore more about the Santa Maria AVAhere.
“As the heart and soul of Santa Maria Valley wine country, the iconic Bien Nacido Vineyard is a coveted source of exceptional Burgundian and Rhone grape varieties and elegant estate wine. With the influence of the Pacific, the reliable California sun and incredible viticultural and winemaking teams, our vineyard consistently yields world-class fruit, resulting in a portfolio of highly acclaimed estate and client wines alike.”
“One of the oldest cool-climate vineyards in California and home of the world’s most single vineyard designations, Bien Nacido Vineyard has been an acclaimed source of world-glass grapes and estate wine since its founding in 1973 by brothers Stephen and Bob Miller.
“Meaning “Well Born” in Spanish, Bien Nacido was planted on the historic site of the Rancho Tepusquet land grant, a plot of land that was granted to Tomás Olivera in 1837, when California was still a part of Mexico. The Olivera Family’s adobe, built in 1857, still graces the estate today – a majestic sentinel looking after the vines.”
THE WINE
I have just one wine to present to you today from Bien Nacido Estate. Because this is not a current release, winery notes come from wine.com.Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2018 Bien Nacido Estate Syrah, Santa Maria Valley AVA, Santa Barbara County, 13.1% ABV, $40 (#1184)
Winery Notes from wine.com: “The co-fermentation of Viognier lends a softer and more floral tone, which makes the Estate Syrah a perfect wine to open early in its life. Fresh violets cracked white pepper and blueberry pie dominate with a fresh herbs-de-Provence note found in the background.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Dark fruit aromas are wrapped up in crushed stone, charred wood and dry soil elements on the nose of this bottling. The palate is very floral, offering flavors of crumpled lavender and violet, with hints of tar and inky fruit as a taut structure packs it all together.” Matt Kettmann, December 2020
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Bouquet of dark fruit and musty earth (akin to Central Coast Funk). Palate of tobacco, spice, blackberry and a touch of earth. Pleasant. August 2023
“Join us at our tasting room, The Gatehouse at Bien Nacido, to taste the current releases of both Bien Nacido Estate, and our sister winery on the westernmost reaches of the Santa Maria Valley, Solomon Hills Estate.”
Flights, Pairings, & New Selections
“Our tasting room offers the perfect opportunity to experience the best of Bien Nacido Estate, with a variety of ways to explore our portfolio. Enjoy a tasting flight featuring both Bien Nacido Estate wines and the wines of our sister winery, Solomon Hills Estate. Consider upgrading your tasting experience by pairing your flight with some charcuterie and cheese. Stop in for a glass of our current selections or join some friends for a bottle to share.”
Experience Estate Wine at the Vineyards
“Plan a visit to our on-site tasting room, The Gatehouse at Bien Nacido, to experience our world class wine right where it’s sourced and made. Choose from a variety of ways to explore our portfolio, and that of our sister winery, Solomon Hills Estate. Consider upgrading your tasting experience by pairing your flight with small bites or adding on a tour or catered lunch. We look forward to welcoming you to Bien Nacido.”
A short recap of the Festival (repeated from the previous event posts): The Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans said this about this event: “Sun, Wind & Wine. The Santa Lucia Highlands is a small but mighty winegrowing appellation in Monterey County that cultivates California’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With generations of family farming, innovation and sustainability as our legacy, our growers and vineyards have earned their place among the state’s most prestigious names for appellation and single-vineyard cool-climate varieties.” The number of wineries present was staggering! We had a strategy going in – to focus on wineries we did not know, to share pours, and to dump the rest.
I did not capture detailed tasting notes at this event; rather, I’ll talk about some of the wineries we met. As a reminder: Pinot Noir is not my wheelhouse, so I can only go by impressions. That said, I would attend this event again for the experience – and take a lot more pictures!
In this post, I am presenting 3 Central Coast wineries which are not in Monterey County. (For local, Monterey wineries, see the previous 2 posts above). Today, this means Sarah’s Vineyard, Three Furies and Tudor Wines. Any winery notes are from their websites or from the pourers at this event, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
One more post is coming about this event! Next week will be out of area wineries making wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.
SARAH’S VINEYARD
We have tasted wines from Sarah’s Vineyard grapes made by some of our local vintners, but this was the first time we were able to taste their wines directly. Unfortunately, I did not capture tasting notes. The winery is located in Gilroy, a short drive from the Monterey Peninsula! The vineyards for their estate wines come from the Mt. Madonna District – we will need to go up and taste those wines and tell you more in a future post!
Marilyn “Sarah” Otteman purchased 10 acres in south Santa Clara County’s Hecker Pass area in 1977. She began the vineyard with an initial planting of seven acres of Chardonnay. The winery itself was founded 1978.
“Marilyn was a creative, free spirit, with a love for the land (she had an actual teepee on the property) and an innate sense of style. Both her and the early wines’ character caught the public and media’s fancy – the ornate Sarah’s Vineyard label quickly developed a loyal following and a reputation for top-flight Chardonnays.
“The small, rustic tasting room soon became a “must stop” for early Central Coast wine excursions. Today, Sarah’s legacy can still be seen in the attention to detail and warm hospitality on display daily around the winery.
Tim Slater, Proprietor & Mad Scientist…
“Tim Slater took the helm at Sarah’s Vineyard when he purchased the vineyards and winery in 2001. Tim in his former life has been a DJ, a musician, and a successful “micro-machining” engineer with many patents to his name. He brought a scientific approach to replanting and modernizing S.V., finely balanced by an artist’s sensibility and a traditionalist’s love of the land.
“Tim is a very hands-on proprietor. He is both grower and winemaker, constantly experimenting in the vineyard and in the cellar. Tim is often to be found in the tasting room, sharing his latest discoveries with guests.
“By channeling both his inner “mad scientist” and his artistic side, the S.V. estate and wines have flourished. Tim’s philosophy is a fairly simple one: bottle by bottle, vintage by vintage, to capture the “music of the vineyard” – to grow and produce some of California’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.”
About Tondré Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands:
“Tondré Alarid established a vineyard on his family’s historic ranch in Monterey’s Santa Lucia Highlands. In the hands of his son Joe Alarid, the estate has become one of the S.L.H.’s best known properties. The Highlands’ sparse mountainside soils and windy Monterey Bay-influenced climate produce some of the country’s best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The combination of a perfect site and meticulous farming makes for truly great wines.”
Winery Notes: “The ’21 Tondré Grapefield Chardonnay displays enticing aromas and flavors of white flowers, citrus, and pastry crust. Time in the glass offers up golden apple, pear, and lemon curd flavors and a long finish of spice, vanilla, and peach. The balance of bright acidity and a hint of creaminess from the primarily neutral French oak barrels make this wine a great match for Tim’s recipe for Shrimp Tacos with Mexican Street Corn.” French oak, 25% new, 11 months. 194 cases produced.
Winery Notes: “The ’19 Sarah’s Vineyard Tondré Grapefield Pinot Noir has a vast red fruit and floral presence with dark cherry, raspberry, and crushed rose petal notes in the glass. On the palate, the bright fruit is complemented by baking spice, pepper, and a hint of vanilla with smooth, silky tannins. This delightful Pinot Noir pairs wonderfully with Tim’s wine club recipe for Bacon Wrapped Chicken Breasts.” 461 cases produced.
Winery Notes: “The ’21 Sarah’s Vineyard Tondré Grapefield Pinot Noir has cellared beautifully and has delicate dark red fruit and spice with a lovely floral bouquet of violet notes in the glass. On the palate, the rich raspberry and plum fruits are complemented by baking spice, white pepper, and a hint of vanilla with smooth, silky tannins. This delightful Pinot Noir pairs wonderfully with grilled chicken and mushrooms over wild rice.” French oak, 35% new, 11 months. 275 cases produced.
Visiting Sara’s Vineyard: “We are open daily for curbside pickups of wine orders /wine club releases and have patio reservations available daily – reservations are strongly encouraged.” Check their website for details and reservations.
THREE FURIES
Another out-if area, Central Coast winery new to us! They make wines from several regions, each named after one of the Three Furies: Constant Vengeance from Sta. Rita Hills AVA, The Angry One from Santa Lucia Highlands, and The Jealous – not yet released.
About Three Furies: “Three Furies Wines are a manifestation of Winemaker Martin Mackenzie’s insatiable curiosity and quest for truth, power, and beauty in wine.
“Martin, a New Zealand native, crafted wines for world-renowned Stonyridge Vineyard on remote Waiheke Island, New Zealand for ten years before moving to California wine country.
“In California since 2009 as consulting, flying, and head winemaker, Martin has produced wines with top scores, earning high critical praise for his craft.
“Three Furies Wines are Martin’s expression of respect for the power of nature.”
“Three Furies Wines explore the mysteries of the noblest of grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay through limited-edition, single-vineyard releases.
“These wines represent contemplative studies of place, from vineyards sought for their character, where grapes struggle to grow from dry, cracked earth, and where vines are buffeted by screeching maritime gales.
“From this harrowed fruit, we make seductive, delicious wines.
“Our collection currently includes Constant Vengeance from Sta. Rita Hills AVA and The Angry One from Santa Lucia Highlands.
“The Jealous is the third Fury in our collection, not yet released.
“These wines are available to our mailing list only as well as a few carefully hand selected on-premise placements.
“Our current placements include: The French Laundry, Torc, Sante and The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, K. Laz Wine Collection.”
2018 Three Furies Wines The Angry One Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $85 (#1011)
Winery Notes: ““Pure, clean aromatics exhibit bright and floral red fruit notes. Violets, red cherry, pomegranate and raspberry mingle with fresh-bread and mineral notes. Red velvet cake comes to mind. Intense in color with a vibrant crimson hue.” ~ Martin Mackenzie, Winemaker From the time spent in barrel she has been lavished upon resulting in firm tannins offering structure while maintaining racy acidity keeping her fresh and clean. An instant favorite of those who encounter her, she contrasts sharply with the more reticent and brooding older sibling, Constant Vengeance, who demands patience and a certain period of getting to know.” This was the first vintage of this wine.
2019 Three Furies The Angry One Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $85 (#1012)
“Bright hue of crimson-rose red with a good depth of color. Pretty notes of cranberry, blueberries and cherry dominate the generous aromas. Hints of violets, sage, licorice and cedar lurk beneath, hinting at things to come. Initially fresh, bright and firm of structure, the wine soon opens up to reveal pools of glycerol laden fruit, very much reflecting the aromas. Framed with firm but fine tannins the flavors remain through the long-lasting finish. With the acid and structure to age for ten years, The Angry One nevertheless leaves the impression of volume and generosity of fruit on the palate, making it enjoyable upon release as well as for cellaring.” ~ Martin Mackenzie, Winemaker
TUDOR WINES
We’d also never heard of Tudor Wines from Paso Robles. They brought three library wines for us to taste! Impressive! Please note that the Wine Enthusiast reviews are at or near time of release and may not reflect the current taste of these now-library wines!
About Tudor Wines: “Every year our grandfather Tudor used to make wine for his friends and family. It’s a family tradition we continue to this day on the Central Coast of California.
“We believe that in an increasing mechanized world, there are still a few handmade products that stand out. Fine wine is one of them. We select fruit from family owned vineyards and transform it into wine using traditional techniques. These include small fermentations mixed by hand and aging in French barrels. The resulting wine has a purity of natural expression that cannot be duplicated on a larger scale.”
“On the island of Hvar in Croatia, the Tudor family has grown grapes and lavender for hundreds of years in a small village called Velo Grablje. The island of Hvar is the longest Adriatic island. It has plenty of lavender fields, olive groves, and vineyards. Hvar is, no doubt, an exceptional island, both in summer and winter. Due to its mild winter climate and rich subtropical vegetation, it has also been called the Croatian Madeira. An average of 2724 hours of sunshine per year makes Hvar one of the sunniest places in Croatia.
“The Tudors began growing grapes in California early in the 1900’s and continue to operate one of the largest table grape vineyards in the country.
“This tradition of growing grapes continued when Christians’ grandfathers moved to California and planted table grape vineyards in the 1920’s. These are Dan Tudor and Sons and Vincent B. Zaninovich farms located in Delano, California. Christian worked at Dan Tudor and Sons during the summer picking seasons throughout high school and college 1988-1998.”
Wine Enthusiast – 85 points: “Has a heavy, jellied taste that detracts from elegance. Hard to tell why, for the fruit certainly got ripe in cherries, cola and raspberries, and acidity is fine. Drink now.”
My Notes: Barnyard and earth. May 2023
2006 Tudor Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $40 (price at release) (#1014)
Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “A very nice Pinot Noir. Rich and ripe in jammy, pie-filling black cherry, currant and cola flavors, with complex notes of dusty spices and smoky oak, it’s dry and full-bodied, and ready to drink over the next few years.”
Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “This is a really beautiful Pinot Noir. It’s rich in flavor, but also strong in structure, with good acidity and firm, dry tannins framing a silky texture. The flavors suggest raspberries, cherries and vanilla cream, accented with smoky sweet oak. Drink now.”
Wine Enthusiast: “A very good Pinot Noir. Shows just what you want in a fine coastal bottling, with a smooth, silky texture, crisp acidity, and fine, delicate but powerful flavors. In this case, the wine shows cool-climate notes of raspberries, cherries and red currants, with umami, salty smoked meat and oak-inspired vanilla toast complexities. Drink now–2013.” S.H. (12/15/2010)
My Notes: Best of the bunch – very smooth. May 2023
Taste Tudor Wines: “The Tudor downtown Paso Robles tasting lounge, in the historic Acorn Building, is steps from City Park and every art, dining, shopping and entertainment experience you can wish for in a wine destination. Treasure a glass of highly-rated, Grand Cru level Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Experience unique tasting flights of current releases and rare vintage library wines. Or, enjoy a few sweets and espresso.” Open Thursday-Monday noon – 6 p.m.
Since spending more time on the Central Coast, my palate has shifted more toward Syrah. While I love my Carmel Valley/Monterey County Syrahs, I have a particular fondness as well for ones from Santa Barbara County. I wrote up my August 2022 “Sideways” tasting trip on a mission to find such wines in multiple posts about Bien Nacido, Tensley, Stolpman and Beckmen (or just search “Sideways”!).
We were fortunate to take a trip down to Ojai in 2019 where we explored local wines, knowing nothing about any of the Ojai wineries. There, we discovered The Ojai Vineyard and picked up a couple of their exceptional Syrahs. I reviewed their 2015 Bien Nacido Syrah from Santa Maria Valley here and their 2016 Rolling Ranch from Ventura County here.
This winter, a couple of those special Syrahs were opened, including the high end 2019 Beckmen Block Six (#831) (one of the best Syrahs I have ever tasted – what a shame we opened it so early) and this 2012 from The Ojai Vineyard, another one at the very top of my list (which we had been waiting to open). I need a color code system – like our Wine Pod partners have – for my own high-end wines so Man With Corkscrew doesn’t just open them on a random night.
About The Ojai Vineyard from their https://www.ojaivineyard.com/: “The wines we make today are a culmination of four decades pursuing excellence with the fruit grown in our region. We believe that a history like ours is an asset only insofar as it is defined by evolution. Craft is not an overnight sensation; it is the step by step progress that only comes from intuition and experience.”
I just have this one vintage to review today, but I included the 2015 review so you could read them in the same post. As usual, winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2012 The Ojai Vineyard, Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, 13.5% ABV, $60 (#954)
Winery Notes: “We’ve been making Bien Nacido Syrah since 1994, Vineyard manager Chris Hammell continues to work his magic here. Our section in block Z has always produced a wine of distinction, but Hammell’s farming has turned this block into a showcase of how to produce the best syrah grapes. Organic growing, low yields, and painstaking attention to detail have taken these vines to a new level–and the wines show it. This syrah is a wonderful statement of how good Bien Nacido syrah can be: a wine with fascinatingly complex aromas and dense, woodsy, berry fruit and zippy exuberance. This is an intensely flavored but completely delicious wine to drink.”
Blend: 100% Syrah | Alc: 13.5% | Vinification: 25% New French Oak | Barrel Aging: 16 Months | Total Production: 319 cases
95 points – Antonio Galloni & Jeb Dunnuck
My Review: Deep garnet in the glass. Dark fruit on the palate, with flavors of currant and mild tobacco. Earthy and good. January 2023
2015 The Ojai Vineyard Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, 13.5% ABV, $45 (#560*)
The Ojai Vineyard Tasting Notes: “Aromas come on with many of the usual suspects from Bien Nacido—cured meat, purple flowers, rock dust—but also a concentrated fruity exuberance that tilts toward liqueur. It drinks with that same balance, coming on with an lavish blanket of dark fruits before gaining pitch and lengthening into a smoky savory beauty, closing out late with those cool-climate notes of herby tapenade, wood smoke and peppery meat crust. The forward feel will have many drink this sooner than later, but for peak rapture age this for several years, at least.” 97 points Jeb Dunnuck!!
My Review: Berry blast on the nose, followed by some menthol and leather. Super delicious on the palate. Spice on the finish. We followed the Vineyard Aging Recommendations, opening this one before the 2012 Syrah, which is still not ready! We served this with Thanksgiving leftovers. I loved this wine – probably one of the best Syrahs I have recently consumed. August 2021
Visit The Ojai Vineyards Tasting Room: You can buy Ojai Vineyard wines on their website or at their tasting room at 109 S Montgomery St, Ojai, CA 93023 daily 12-5 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended.
Last August, when I went on my “Sideways” tour in search of Ballard Canyon Syrahs, we stopped at Stolpman. I wrote all about it here: https://decantingmonterey.com/stolpman-delivers-a-world-class-experience-sideways-part-3/. But there was one Syrah they didn’t have open and would not open for me to taste – their Hilltops Syrah. I purchased one to taste later. And we did. I think we probably should have let it sit a bit longer, but curiosity got the best of me.
I won’t repeat everything I wrote up about Stolpman in my last post, but encourage you to check it out to learn more. Let’s just get to the Hilltops. Today I am reviewing just the one Stolpman wine. Winery notes come from their webpage, where you can also purchase their wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 Stolpman Vineyards Hilltops Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $52 (#893)
“We first vineyard designated this cuvee from the modern-day Hilltops block in 2008, only 4 years after replanting the Estate’s center ridge to a variety of our favorite Syrah strains and clones. Since then, we have refined the Hilltops cuvee into a tight selection of our favorite micro-blocks within the greater hilltop. Prior to 2008, the Hilltops wine came from a barrel selection of Syrah from all three ridges on the vineyard. Those grapes are now blended into the main Estate Grown Syrah cuvee.
VINTAGE
“2019 marked the second vintage in a row without harvest-time heat spikes. Facial Expressions around the team conveyed our shared thoughts and feelings without saying a word – a certain giddiness that we had a shot at replaying 2018 armed with that year of heat-free experience. And, the acids were hanging even higher and fresher than 2018. The Tell of the vintage is extremely energetic, high-toned red wine that will age well over a decade.
SENSORY
“Opaque tarry dark fruit kissed with lavender and backed with sage and mint. Fine, feathery and elegant with a playful prettiness in its youth – but we can’t wait to check in on the 2019 Hilltops in 3-5 years once unfurled.”
My Review: Slightly sweet nose of raspberry, yeast, lavender, cocoa and alcohol. Rich plum, blackberry, some vanilla. Improved after opening up. I do think we should have waited to open this to get its full potential, but we liked it anyway. Love me my Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs! November 2022Visit: You can taste Stolpman wines at their tasting room in the center of Los Olivos: 2434 Alamo Pintado Avenue. You can make a reservation on-line or give them a call at 1-805-688-0400. I reserved on-line and it was very easy! We sat on a picnic bench in the shade. As I said before, “If you can only stop at one place to taste wines in Los Olivos, I’d definitely stop here!”
My recent trip to Los Olivos reminded me that I have a couple of wines from my April 2022 family reunion still to post. I’m not sure who brought us the Greg Norman Estates wine, but a niece-in-law brought the Jonata wine. While I was stuck at the older siblings table drinking a fine Burgundy (not my wheelhouse), the junior cousins were enjoying this delicious big red blend. I almost missed out!
Jonata was on my list of wineries to visit during my recent trip, but, while their wine came from Ballard Canyon AVA, their tasting room was closer to the coast. I’ll put it on my list for next time. Be sure to check out their website below for all details.
About Greg Norman Estates: “Greg Norman, known as much for his entrepreneurial spirit in the boardroom as his dominance on the golf course, is arguably the most successful athlete-turned-businessman. His unyielding approach to both golf and life earned him the nickname, The Great White Shark. Created from a family passion and strengthened by determination, Greg Norman Estates, founded in 1996, is a collection of fine wines sourced from stunning wine regions in California, New Zealand, and Greg’s homeland of Australia. The selected growing regions are appreciated for the incredible wines they produce and the personal influence they have had on the Norman family over Greg’s many years professionally touring the world. A strong believer in the role of wine as part of an active, easygoing lifestyle, Greg’s aim is to produce approachable yet bold wines to be enjoyed by family, fans and wine enthusiasts alike.”
About Jonata: “The Jonata name refers to an 1845 Mexican land grant, Rancho San Carlos de Jonata, which covers expansive territory across the Santa Ynez Valley. The winery’s estate can be found at the heart of this area…”
“…THE 30-MILE CORRIDOR of the Santa Ynez Valley offers up a diverse array of personalities for grapes and terroir. The warmer area in the eastern section—known as Happy Canyon—is producing revelation-worthy Bordeaux varieties. Meanwhile, on the east-to-west foothills of Buellton, the Sta. Rita Hills serves as a mecca for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But for Rhône varieties, there may be no better AVA than Ballard Canyon not only in the Valley, but perhaps anywhere in the United States. Ballard Canyon, running north and south, gets the best of both regions, with a cooling marine influence from the west blended with the moderation of the warmer Happy Canyon. The result of this mixed climate puts this region on the map as Syrah country. There are less than 20 Ballard Canyon wine estates: Some sit on limestone, some on clay, and some on sand (or a combination of the three). At Jonata’s 586-acre estate, the farm pastures are lined with goats, sheep, and chickens. Off of the ranch, 84 vines are planted to grapes on rectangular-shaped Careaga sandstone. Winemaker Matt Dees, a former plant science major at the University of Vermont, began making wine 20 years ago and traversed from Australia to Napa to New Zealand before he began working for Jonata Owner Stan Kroenke in 2004…” Click on About Jonata above if you want to read the whole Somm Journal article about Ballard Canyon, Jonata, and its winemaker Matt Dees.
Today, I am presenting just 2 wines. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Sadly, my tasting notes are from my own memory and rather skimpy. When 25 people are dining at your house for 3 days in a row, something has to give!
2017 Greg Norman Estates Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara, 13.9% ABV, $14 (#845)
Winery Notes: “Vivid aromas of fresh strawberry and ripe red cherry supported by sweet clove and forest floor notes. The palate is juicy with bright flavors that mirror the nose. The well balanced, lively acidity that is a hallmark of Pinot Noirs from Santa Barbara makes it an ideal partner with many cuisines.” 12 months in seasoned French oak and stainless steel.
My Notes: I don’t recall much about this wine except that it seemed fairly representative of an inexpensive, Central Coast Pinot Noir.
2016 Jonata Todos Red Wine, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Ynez AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.9% ABV, $50 (#846)
Winery Notes: “Lovely balance between savory and sweet. Blackberry and black cherry, Mesquite and black truffle. Notes of violets, pepper and five spice powder. Floral, fruit-driven and effusively aromatic. Smoky, sweet and decadent with a massive core of black fruit. Dusty tannins start early and slowly encompass the entire palate. Earthy and complex, but ultimately round and generous with tannins that stretch the fruit to greater lengths. Tremendous grip. Absolutely beautiful today with some air. A decadent and towering Todos. 50% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petite Sirah, 8% Petit Verdot, 5% Sangiovese, 2% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Viognier, 1% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Sémillon. 2,426 Cases Produced. Matt Dees, Winemaker 95 Points Jeb Dunnuck | 92 Points Antonio Galloni, Vinous.”
My Notes: Just from memory, I recall this as a big, voluptuous wine. Resplendent with delicious dark, jammy berries, smooth on the palate. I liked this wine.
Greg Norman Estates, located in Paso Robles, has no opportunity for public tastings.
Tasting Jonata Wines – check out the EXPERIENCES tab on their website. Tastings are by appointment only: “JONATA wine experiences are offered at our sister winery The Hilt Estate in their new tasting room The Barn. The Hilt Estate is a dramatic property located within a 30 minute drive west of JONATA in Santa Barbara County’s Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Located just miles from the Pacific Ocean near the intersection of the historic Highway 1 and Santa Rosa Road, The Barn at The Hilt Estate is ideally situated as the starting or ending point for a Santa Barbara wine trip.
“With wines from two renowned estates—JONATA and The Hilt—The Barn at The Hilt Estate offers one of the most diverse lineups of wine in Santa Barbara County. From highly acclaimed pinot noirs and chardonnays from The Hilt to JONATA’s sought after Bordeaux varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and Rhône varietal syrah, there is something for every palate…”
This is the final post in my “Sideways” tour in Los Olivos. I wanted to visit a couple of tasting rooms at their wineries for the true Ballard Canyon experience, but our time was extremely limited. And we had to drive to Buellton (yes, Buellton!) to spend the night. Luckily, Beckmen was kind of on the way! We drove from downtown Los Olivos along back roads and a long driveway to beautiful Beckmen Vineyards and their tasting room. I was grateful to them for being flexible on our arrival time (I probably changed it 3 times!). We felt like total tourists, bumbling around the property trying to find the entrance to the tasting room.
The tasting room has such a picturesque setting – with the outdoor seating area overlooking a pond. By the time we got there, it was extremely hot outside. We decided to taste indoors in the air conditioning, rather than outside, enjoying the view. We were met by Tasting Room Associate Dannika, who was extremely knowledgeable about all the wines, the owner, and the history. She was very engaging and professional. I’d love to go back on a not-so-hot day and enjoy more of their wines – and the view from the deck.
About Beckmen: “Beckmen Vineyards began after Tom and Judy Beckmen left their innovative electronic music company Roland Corp, US to become pioneers of California wine. With youngest son Steve as Winemaker, and oldest son Jeff joining as Director of Sales later on, Beckmen Vineyards is a family owned and operated winery. Since 1994, we’ve established ourselves as a benchmark Santa Barbara County grower and producer. Our consistent quality vintage after vintage keeps us a favorite of critics, tastemakers, and collectors. Our wines have filled the cellars and tables of the country’s finest restaurants and houses (including the White House).
“Beckmen wines are crafted almost exclusively from our two vineyards, the Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard in Los Olivos District AVA and Purisima Mountain Vineyard in Ballard Canyon AVA. Farming over 150 acres of vines, we view every vintage as another opportunity to grow our legacy as a world-class winery by creating wines that future generations will enjoy. Currently, we’re proud to be hosting wine lovers seven days a week, providing unforgettable experiences at our beautiful winery and tasting room in the Santa Ynez Valley.”
I learned some notable things about the Beckmens, part of the original Rhône Rangers. Dannika shared that the Beckmens were the first to make a Rosé and the first to bottle Grenache as a single varietal in Santa Barbara County, paving the way for many others who have followed. You can read more about the Beckmens in this Forbes article from 2019.
We recently received a newsletter from Steve Beckmen in honor of International Grenache Day. He was offering a special on 3 of his highly rated Grenache bottlings and said this:
“…For many vintages, our Block Eight Grenache was one of the most intense and exotic Grenache wines that we produced. That is not surprising given the smaller berries and clusters that this old head trained block produces. Sadly, the 2019 Block Eight Grenache might be one of the last bottlings of this wine as intense heat and drought have had an effect on these vines. If you’re a fan of Block Eight, you’ll want to take advantage of this opportunity.
“The 2020 Grenache Libre is the first vintage of this wine, produced from a new head trained block of Grenache combined with fruit from Block Eight with 35% whole cluster. In his 94 point rating, Jeb Dunnuck described the wine as having ” Châteauneuf-like notes of ripe red and black fruits, dried herbs, graphite, and loamy earth all emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, fine yet present tannins, terrific balance, and a great finish.
“The Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache has been a fixture in our portfolio since the beginning. 2020 also garnered 94 points from Dunnuck. It’s a truly great vintage that he describes as “wonderfully balanced, with ripe, sweet tannins and the rare quality of Grenache that brings richness yet with no sensation of weight or heaviness…”
I also want to share this quote about why the Ballard Canyon AVA is so special for Syrah from a 2014 interview with Steve Beckmen in The Wine Write: “Ballard Canyon is a special place, and we’re extremely excited about the AVA designation. We really enjoy working with the great group of producers and growers in Ballard Canyon. We all believe that having California’s first dedicated Rhone (Syrah) focused AVA will help in the promotions of our wines. Some of the most respected wineries and vineyards in Santa Ynez are within our Ballard Canyon group. We have a few newly released wines with the new AVA on the label, and one of our new Syrahs uses the new Ballard Canyon bottle…response to those has been really positive.”
They also have a line of natural wines – 1NGREDIENT – which are single ingredient and aged in clay pots. The only other place I have experienced this in the U.S. is with Wrath’s Falanghina.
I don’t want to leave our “Sideways” tour without mentioning our dinner at The Hitching Post 2. The menu was as expected, heavy on the steaks. Two of us meat eaters enjoyed delicious steaks (I have the smallest filet mignon) with all the fixings. It was quite a delicious meal. My steak was prepared perfectly. I would definitely eat there again. The restaurant is run quite efficiently and it was packed, which I found a bit surprising for a weeknight. We stopped to check out the bar on our way in and out, just to refresh movie scenes in our minds.
Today I am presenting 7 Beckmen Vineyards wines. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise noted.
I’ll also add an 8th wine from dinner here – The Hitching Post Syrah (#835). I am not sure of the vintage or even that it was “BIG CIRCLE”. It might be fun to do a tasting of Hitching Post wines on a future visit. According to the winery’s website, “”BIG CIRCLE” is our Santa Barbara Syrah that features the fruitiness and acidity of our cool climate, combined with the body and broad flavors brought on by warm days during the ripening season, creating a full bodied and lively wine.” While our food at The Hitching Post 2 was out of this world, the house Syrah just could not compare to all the great wines we tasted all day. I don’t think I could even finish it – and that is all I will say. I’m sure they make some good ones – that glass just wasn’t it.
2021 Beckmen Vineyards Purisma Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 13.4% ABV, $29 (#828)
Winery Notes: “Bright lifted aromas and flavors of watermelon, cranberry, strawberry and citrus highlight the 2021 PMV Grenache Rosé. The cooler vintage provided great acidity that carries the impressive flavors on the very long finish. Our trademark creamy texture and the wines’ impeccable balance make this an epic vintage of our Rosé. Drink this now and over the next 2-3 years. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic grapes.”
My Review: Brownish rose in the glass. A perfumed nose of gardenia and watermelon. Crisp, cold, refreshing. An excellent rosé. Very enjoyable. August 2022
2020 Beckmen Vineyards Purisma Mountain Vineyard Viognier, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#829)
Winery Notes: “One of our favorite vintages ever for this wine, the 2020 is fantastic and everything we expect out of our Viognier. Outgoing aromas of apricot, honeysuckle, jasmine, white flowers, and a touch of white pepper show the full array of Viognier aromatics. The mouth balances richness and elegance, creaminess with a touch of acid, showing how truly great our Viognier can be. The flavors glide over the palate with stone fruits, apricot, white flower, and a mineral note that finishes incredibly long.
We cannot express how excited we are to release the 2020 PMV Viognier! It should continue to drink beautifully for the next 5-7 years or more. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic viognier.”
My Review: Light golden in color. Nice perfume on the nose. A very tasty palate of honeysuckle and citrus. Crisp and delicious. August 2022
2019 Beckmen Vineyards Estate Block Eight Grenache, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 15.2% ABV, $65 (#830)
Winery Notes: “There is always an exotic side to the Block 8 Grenache that separates it from our other bottlings. It is one of our most intense Grenache wines we produce, which is not surprising based on the smaller berries and clusters that this old, head trained, own rooted vineyard delivers. Complex aromas of candied orange, violets, white pepper, and red fruits are lifted and expressive. The mouth shows its usual richness and structure with red and black fruits, dried flowers, and spices that are deep and concentrated. A terrific vintage of Block 8 Grenache that should age for the next 12-15 years or more.” See the box above for more info – now is the time to snap this wine up!
My Review: Transparent ruby in the glass. ripe and bright due to the long growing season. Heavier than most Grenache. Pretty darn delicious. A cut above most Central Coast Grenache wines. As it should be since Steve Beckmen was the first to bottle it as a single varietal. August 2022
2019 Beckmen Vineyards Purisma Mountain Vineyard Block Six Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.8% ABV, $75 (#831)
Winery Notes: “Block Six was the first section of Purisima Mountain Vineyard to be farmed biodynamically starting in 2002 and is the highest elevation block in the vineyard featuring significant deposits of chalky limestone. These factors contribute to a wine that has consistently been our finest Syrah bottling.
“Classic Block Six Syrah aromas of game, pepper, blackberry, chocolate, and mineral highlight the 2019 vintage. Another stellar year for this wine, the palate is packed with more spice, dark fruits, chocolate, and plum with amazing texture, fine tannins, and balanced acidity. Delicious as usual, the 2019 should age beautifully for the next 25-30 years. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic grapes.” Vinous – 93 points
My Review: By now, it is getting late in our day. Rich berry and smooth – one of the top Syrahs I have tasted today. Very elegant and impressive. I took one home! August 2022
2019 Beckmen Vineyards Purisma Mountain Vineyard Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, $39 (#832)
Winery Notes: “The cool 2019 growing season produced a very savory vintage of PMV Syrah. Cured meats, game, roasted earth, pepper, blackberry, and coco highlight the aromas of the 2019. Elegant and rounded on the palate (reminiscent of the very successful 2015 vintage), the mouth shows off sweet black fruits, dark chocolate, game, mocha, and pepper with fine tannins that carry the flavor through the very long, savory finish. A bit young and tight upon release, the 2019 should be decanted or aged for the short term and will age beautifully for the next 15-18 years or longer. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic syrah grapes.” Vinous – 94 points
My Review: This Syrah was good, but, to my overused palate, at first it tasted more like a Côte-Rôtie-style Syrah co-fermented with a touch of Viognier. Palate of berries and a touch of ash with a tart finish. It really isn’t fair to taste this at the end of a day of tasting and side by side with the Block Six. I’ll have to do a retaste of this 94-point wine. August 2022
2020 Beckmen Vineyards 1NGREDIENT Sauvignon Blanc, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, $50 (#833)
Winery Notes: “A natural wine, fermented and aged on the skins for 10 months in amphora, then hand bottled and hand labelled. Learn more about this wine and our natural 1NGREDIENT label.
Big and intense upon opening with candied lemon, mineral and citrus aromas, this thought-provoking wine fills the mouth with citrus fruits and saline flavors. The extended skin contact brings youthful tannins and juicy acidity that provide the wine with ample structure creating an edgy mouthfeel which supports the intense flavors. The wine opens up with some air or decanting to show citrus fruits, saline, green apple, and Asian pear flavors and aromas with a broad more rounded mouthfeel as the tannins integrate into the wine. The wine’s amazing acidity carries the flavors on the long, complex finish. Surprisingly full and rich for its moderate alcohol, the 2020 1NGREDIENT Sauvignon Blanc is a step up in quality from the successful inaugural release from the 2018 vintage. It should evolve beautifully for the next decade or more. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic grapes.”
Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “Only one ingredient—Sauvignon Blanc grapes—went into this 63-case bottling, which was aged in clay pots. The intriguing result is a slightly cloudy, yellow wine, loaded with preserved Meyer lemon, crushed clay and baked orange aromas on the nose. The palate shows melon and nectarine as well as tangerine and grapefruit pith flavors. Unique.” Matt Kettmann 9/2022
My Review: Cloudy in the glass with a kind of yeasty weirdness. I admire a winery that plays with clay pot fermentation and aging. Would have been fun to try the others. Another time! August 2022
2019 Beckmen Vineyards SYV Cabernet Sauvignon, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, $39 (#834)
Winery Notes: “It is always tough to follow a great vintage, but the 2019 SYV Cabernet Sauvignon is a great follow up to the outstanding 2018 vintage. More focused on our estate fruit from the Thomas and Judith Beckmen Vineyard, the 2019 shows classic aromas and flavors of cherry, black currant, vanilla, tobacco, and earth. The mouthfeel is smooth, round, and elegant, with great acidity from the cooler vintage in 2019 that carries the fruit on the very long finish. Approachable and ready to drink now, the wine will age wonderfully over the next 12-15 years.” Vinous – 93 points
My Review: With a splash of Merlot, this wine was spicy and juicy. Dark plum and cassis on the finish. A very nice wine to finish our day of wine tasting! August 2022
Come Visit Us at the Winery: I highly recommend adding Beckmen Vineyards to your Los Olivos wine tasting adventure if you want to drive a tiny bit out of town. “Enjoy a flight of six premier wines or picnic at one of our gazebos overlooking our pond.” 2670 Ontiveros Rd, Los Olivos, CA 93441 Open daily from 11am — 5pm, reservations recommended.
This is the third installment of our August “Sideways” trip to Los Olivos in search of Ballard Canyon AVA Syrahs. But, before we start on the wines, I want to take a moment to highlight our lunch experience at the Los Olivos Wine Merchant Café! My friend was being driven from Pasadena to Los Olivos for our little “Sideways” adventure. We decided to limit ourselves to 2 tastings after lunch, instead of pushing ourselves to 3. This was a smart decision, as we were able to enjoy our experiences and not feel rushed, including our lunch!
The menu at Los Olivos Wine Merchant Café offers a great variety of options. My friends split a pizza, while I enjoyed a California turkey sandwich on perfectly toasted bread. Since they just arrived, they enjoyed a glass of something. I had already been to 2 wineries and stuck with an iced tea. We sat outside and had such a relaxing meal. I did venture inside and got a peek at the wines for sale. I must say it is an impressive lineup from high-end Domaine de la Romanée-Conti to local wines. We then strolled over to Stolpman to begin our tasting.
If you can only stop at one place to taste wines in Los Olivos, I’d definitely stop here! We were given a large, shaded outdoor table and were greeted by Kim. The tasting menu was fixed, which at first disappointed me. However, more wines kept coming, so we ended up very satisfied with our tasting. While I was disappointed that I couldn’t try the Hilltops Syrah, I did buy a bottle to try a home. It was a lot of reds in the end, and I was very satisfied with the professional presentation. And they recognized my industry status and generously comped us our tasting! I’d say it was the ultimate tasting experience.
Our presenter Kim was amazing – she had a wealth of knowledge about the winery and the wines, highlighting how it keeps its staff all year long and that they are treated like family, as opposed to hiring temporary crews just for harvest and other tasks. See the write-ups for the Para Maria and La Cuadrilla wines below.
About Stolpman: Over 20 years ago, our Founding Partner, Tom Stolpman, discovered what we believe to be one of the greatest viticultural sites on earth. Hidden in the hills of California’s Central Coast, on a rare Limestone outcropping & unobstructed from the Pacific Ocean wind, this unique land is naturally suited to grow Syrah and Roussanne grapes. We are committed to preserving this natural environment for our vines through conscious farming, dry farming, & sustainable employment. In the winery, we prefer native fermentation & minimal manipulation.
“Dedicated to sensible farming & winemaking, we believe that we can create vibrant, site-specific wines, with a focus unique to Ballard Canyon AVA, California.”
Stolpman also partners with their vignerons, Ruben and Maria Solorzno, to create the Para Maria wines. “Ruben cherry picks the fruit for red and rose wines from the dozens of Santa Barbara County vineyards under his farming control.” In addition: “Stolpman Vineyards employs its dedicated, passionate vineyard workers year-round. In an effort to provide further stability to their families, the crew “La Cuadrilla” receives the profits of their wine.”
Today I am reviewing 9 Stolpman wines – the 8 we tried during our formal tasting plus another one I found while visiting my daughter in DC. Searching for a good wine at Cairo Wine & Liquor, I immediately recognized the owl logo of Para Maria de las tecolotes. The wine was was rated 94 points and was on sale! Winery notes come from their webpage above, where you can also purchase their wines.
2021 Stolpman Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#819)
Winery Notes: “Super sunny lemons and white flowers with an alluring tropical note below. Pear and Nectarine weave into the profile through the mid-palate and give way to an airy, effortless finish. The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc’s fruit profile and body dance on a tight rope through the crisp crunch and linger on through the sunset.”
My Review: Very light in the glass, barely even pale straw. Subtle tropical notes and grilled pineapple on the nose. Refreshing palate of bright citrus and lime twist on the finish. August 2022
2019 Stolpman Vineyards Roussanne, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 13.5% ABV, $30 (#820)
Winery Notes: “Aromas of Asian pear and honeysuckle sprinkled with citrus tell the tale of a rich, indulgent Roussanne ready to coat the palette in full-bodied splendor. On the nose, one can almost smell the rich texture and the mouthfeel doesn’t disappoint. While opulence carries the day, complimentary notes of lychee, lemongrass, and jasmine bring a more delicate prettiness. Aromas of white flower give further lift while golden hay – the only evidence of toasty oak barrels – brings the wine to a long, luxurious finish.”
My Review: Deep golden in the glass. Rich aroma akin to chicken soup with a touch of yeast. Sweet honey and caramel on the palate with vanilla bean on the finish. My friends really liked this wine. August 2022
2021 Para Maria de las tecolotes Rosé, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 12.5% ABV, $21 (#821) Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre
Winery Notes: “Dense strawberry and melon fruit dives deep into a sunburst blast of energy on both the nose and pallet. Fresh herb and wet stone compliment the beaming red fruit finished up with a spritz of lemon. Taut, high-toned, and bone-dry, yet carrying texture and fruit from the front of the palate through the finish.”
My Review: Dusty rose in color. Sweet watermelon and licorice on the nose. Dry palate with watermelon flavors – a great pool wine. August 2022
2019 Para Maria de las tecolotes, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $22 (#822) 80% Syrah, 20% Petit Verdot
Winery Notes: “Taut blue and red plums spin seamlessly into high-toned, fiery red brightness. A winning combination of freshness and ripe depth.”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This affordable blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Petit Verdot always impresses. Expertly captured aromas of berry juice, pepper and thyme are savory yet soft on the nose. The palate is tense in structure but ripe in fleshy dark-red-fruit flavors, all elevated by touches of cracked pepper and lavender.” Matt Kettmann, 3/2021
My Review: Dark and purple in the glass. Deep berry on the nose. Smooth berries with a tannin kick on the palate. Dark cherry on the finish. Yum. Matt Kettmann was right on this one! August 2022
2021 Stolpman Vineyards La Cuadrilla, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14% ABV, $24 (#823)75% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 10% Sangiovese
Winery Notes: “2021 Cuadrilla opens up with dark ripe plum highlighted with bright fresh red berries. Deep and supple with fine chalky tannins already married with a smooth, polished texture. An alluring otherness of wet stones, mint, and mocha prevail from the nose through the mouth captivating the senses beyond just the magnificently pleasurable profile.”
My Review: Ruby in color. Red and black berries on the nose. Grenache dominates the palate. August 2022
2019 Stolpman Vineyards Sangiovese, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County,14.5% ABV, $36 (#824)
Winery Notes: “The seamless, uber-aromatic 2019 sings a beautifully lifted “spirit note”. Misty wild red fruit streaks over woody forest and then washes over malt and fine chalky tannins. The wine is a journey, from the high-tone red fruit, to the forest depth, integrated tannin, and then yet another layer of deeper, riper red fruit. The most refined and compelling Sangiovese we’ve turned out over the past 20 years.”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Dark, smooth berries on the nose. Rich palate of red and dark fruits. I liked this wine. August 2022
2020 Stolpman Vineyards Estate Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14% ABV, $32 (#825)
Winery Notes: “In the glass, the 2020 Estate Grown Syrah possesses a deep black center with a bright red rim. On the nose, boysenberry fruit sits above black olives. Fine tannin melded into the smooth flesh carries into the finish already married with bright red acidity. Just a hint of Syrah wildness adds nuance to the beautiful opaque wall of fruit.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Delicious berries on the palate, fruity and smooth. A little taste of Sweetarts on the finish. This was a tasty wine. Would be great with Friday night burgers or pizza. August 2022
2020 Stolpman Vineyards Angeli Syrah, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.1% ABV, $72 (#826)
Winery Notes: “Booming red fruit intensity sounds the alarm for a rogue wave of coating, decadent, luxurious texture overwhelming the brain’s pleasure center. Even in its youth, the wine has no rough edge to soften although there is still an energetic tangerine zip on the finish in its youth. An absolute all-star, gorgeous Angeli bottling, making Mama Angeli proud!”
My Review: Very inky in the glass. Intense berries, rich and smooth on the palate. A tannic, slightly sour finish. This is a high-end Syrah – cellar this one a bit and try again. August 2022
2019 Stolpman Vineyards Hair of the Bear Red Wine, Ballard Canyon AVA, Santa Barbara County, 14.3% ABV, $65 (#827)75% Petite Syrah, 25% Rousanne
Winery Notes: “Inky purple in the glass and with a nose that pierces into pure hedonism. Thick and ripe but well-structured and youthful. The purple-blue-black fruit purity will evolve and continue to gain even more flesh to reach new heights in 2-3 years (2023-2025). As one of our biggest, richest cuvees, Hair of the Bear delivers the refined 2019 vintage in its own expression, rewarding with its largess – yet finely balanced and age-worthy. With an hour of air, hints of mint and basil begin to build onto the thick-cut fruit showing nods of sophistication to this Wild West cowboy wine.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color. Ham, berries and spice on the nose. Intense berries and tannin on the palate, with notes of Sweetarts on the finish. August 2022
Visit: You can taste Stolpman wines at their tasting room in the center of Los Olivos: 2434 Alamo Pintado Avenue. You can make a reservation on-line on their website or give them a call at 1-805-688-0400. I reserved on-line and it was very easy! We sat on a picnic bench in the shade and were quite comfortable despite the warm day.
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