Tagged: Santa Cruz Mountains

The Bargetto Tasting Room is Right Here in Cannery Row!

In our early days in Monterey back in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s, we occasionally tried Bargetto wines down on Cannery Row.  Way back then, we remember their sweeter wines – mead and dessert-style wines – not really our thing. As we were seeking an emergency location for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society, I popped into Bargetto to see what they are offering these many decades later. 

I asked – what was the big change that took the winery from those sweeter wines (which they still do make) to these higher-end, higher quality, medal winning wines?  The short answer: When Lawrence Bargetto passed away in 1993, they hired an outside winemaker, who transformed their winemaking techniques. In addition, the Regan Vineyard has become one whose grapes are sought after by other local vintners for their wines. And my bottom line is: Get down to Cannery Row and give Bargetto a try!

With three different tasting menus, there is something for everyone here.  Whites, reds, meads and ports. I was able to mix them up by doing a reserve tasting ($25) with one of their high-end La Vita vintages swapped for their delicious, every day Syrah. Yeah, I’m a little crazy.

I did a previous writeup of Bargetto here: https://decantingmonterey.com/bargetto-scores-a-silver-medal-for-its-dolcetto/.

About Bargetto: “The Bargetto winemaking heritage began with brothers Phillip and John Bargetto who from Castelnuovo Don Bosco, a small town in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. They brought with them years of winegrowing experience when they established BARGETTO WINERY on the banks of Soquel Creek in California…The original Bargetto family winery was located in San Francisco from 1910-1917. The name of this winery was South Montebello Vineyard and Wine Company. With Prohibition on the horizon the winery was closed and the brothers moved to Soquel in 1917…The third generation of Bargettos now direct the operation of the winery. BARGETTO WINERY represents the oldest continuous-operation winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Their pioneering spirit continued with the establishment of Bargetto Regan Estate Vineyards, near Corralitos, California in 1992. Here, cool-climate varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Grigio are carefully nurtured to produce BARGETTO WINERY’s estate wines. In keeping with the family heritage, the winery also incorporates northern Italian varietals from its Estate Vineyard into its flagship LA VITA wine.”

As always, winery notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with tasting room staff.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2021 Bargetto Reserve  Chardonnay, Regan Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, 13.5% ABV, $37 (#924)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of both clones grown at our estate vineyard, this reserve blend is the very best of Regan Chardonnay.  The Mount Eden Clone expresses minerality and vibrant acidity, while the Clone 4 brings rich, ripe fruit.  Pleasant aromas of butterscotch and lemon zest dominate the nose, with notes of green apple and stone fruits underneath.  Luxurious and well-integrated French oak elevates the wine beautifully.” 

My Review:  Rose gold in the glass. Cinnamon perfume on the nose. White Peach, white nectarine on the palate and a touch of buttery oak on the finish. January 2023

2020 Bargetto Mount Eden Clone Pinot Noir, Regan Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, 13.7% ABV, $60 (#925)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This unfined, unfiltered 2020 Mount Eden clone Pinot Noir is fruit forward yet complex, with a delectable richness on the palate. Ripe red and black fruit aromas are complemented beautifully by elegant French oak. Intense flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and boysenberry dominate the palate. This is a rich and full-bodied Pinot Noir, as is typical of the famed Mount Eden clone. Tannins are elegant and smooth, giving it a wonderfully plush mouthfeel.” 

My Review:  Cloudy medium ruby in color. Cherry cranberry on the nose. Smoky and tart on the palate. January 2023

2018 Bargetto Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, 13.9% ABV, $60 (#926)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Dark fruit flavors are met with a notes of spice, sweet and smoky oak, black licorice, and potpourri. This wine is full-bodied with firmly structured tannins. 20 months in 40% new French and American oak barrels. Gold/93pts – Beverage Testing Institute, 92pts – Wine Enthusiast.” 

My Review:  Rich ruby in the glass. Intense dark berry on the nose like a really good Cab should smell. Mouth filling palate with berry and mint on the finish. January 2023

2019 Bargetto Syrah, Nelson Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, 14% ABV, $25 (#927)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This 2019 Santa Cruz Mountains Syrah from Nelson Vineyard is beautifully purple and inky in color.  It opens with aromas of black pepper, black licorice, and floral potpourri.  More subtle aromas of blueberry, blackberry, and baking spice follow as the wine opens up.  On the palate dark fruit and peppery spice flavors are married nicely with sweet and toasty oak.” 

My Review:  Deep dark ruby. Very dark berry fruit on the nose. Intense. Rich and smooth – I like this wine. A great bargain. Would pair well with barbecue or charcuterie. January 2023

2018 Bargetto La Vita Refosco, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Regan Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, 13.5% ABV, $60 (#928)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three Northern Italian varietals, the 2018 La Vita has Refosco leading the way, followed by Dolcetto and Nebbiolo. Notes of black plum and cranberry are met with black pepper, licorice, and savory spice.  32 months of barrel aging have allowed this wine’s firm tannins to soften up beautifully. 98pts/Double Gold/Best of Region – CA State Fair.” 

My Review:  Nice dark ruby. Cherry on the nose. Complex, dry, lean. Might need to open up. Will age nicely. The best wine of the day. January 2023

You can purchase Bargetto wines here:  https://bargetto.com/ or visit them at their tasting room (open daily!) at 700-G Cannery Row, Monterey, or their historic winery and tasting room in Soquel.  Click here for more details!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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A New Face in the I Brand Tasting Room!

Stop the presses!

I was on the road this spring quite a bit and did not make the tasting room rounds – until late in June, when we went on a tasting streak in a single long weekend!  While I was busy traveling, I sometimes sought the easy post to fulfill the weekly blog. And I have neglected some of the bigger tastings I did in the winter.  As I look back, I recall I did not post my February 2022 I Brand tasting because I had another catchup post in the works. I recently attended their first release party in a couple of years – and realized there were quite a few other wines I needed to write about first. So, I am halting the presses on my more recent flurry of tastings for this catch-up post!

I distinctly remember this tasting – when we met Will for the first time in the tasting room.  It was so nice to put a face with the new name and he warmly welcomed us. We tried to move quickly through the wines, as we were just in the neighborhood and had not planned a full tasting – we got one anyway!

I have 12 wines (zounds!) to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2016-2020. Most of these come from my February tasting, but others were from our private collection. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

While the wines speak for themselves, I’d like to include this quote from Ian’s Spring 2022 Winemaker Letter, which hit home why I remain a fan of Ian and his wines.  He talks about his “…fascination with old vineyards and more obscure varieties.” He goes on to say, “To appropriately shepherd the local winemaking industry into its best iteration, there needs to be a semi-cohesive idea of what a region is – there should be an expected balance and flavor profile shared in the wines from the region…As we are able to realize and share our ideas of our terroir, wines from the region will become more valuable, which leads to more value in our community.” You can red more about Ian and Heather Brand and their wines here: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/.

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 12.2% ABV, $30 (#741)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A fresh and delicious ‘orange wine’ from mature, terraced Pinot Gris grapes on the oldest, continually producing commercial vineyard in California.”

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $36 (#742)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.”

My Review:  Straw in the glass and sweet muscat and honeysuckle on the nose.  The palate was not as sweet as the nose predicted, with decent tartness with a light, slightly sweet finish.  Quite refreshing – I kind of liked it! February 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#743)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A pure, fresh, minerality driven, Chablis like Chardonnay blend from Jacks Hill on the Central Coast…Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA…planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North. Bright, crisp and clean with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality.”

92 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.” *Editors’ Choice* Matt Kettmann (2/2019)

My Review: Pale yellow in color.  Honeydew melon on the nose.  Honey and gardenia on the palate, with lime notes on the finish.  April 2022.

2018 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 13% ABV, $22 (#744)

90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Tight and brisk aromas of lemon peel and sandstone come through on the nose of this always fairly priced bottling. It’s soft on the palate in texture, but a wet stone minerality and lemon juice acidity provide tension, with dried pear and orange peel flavors showing as well.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: A touch leaner than previous vintages with a little acidity on the finish. February 2022

2019 La Marea and 2017 Besson Old Vines Grenache – Side by Side!

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#745)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fresh, medium bodied Grenache from three rocky vineyards averaging over 50 years of age.”

My Review:  A muddy ruby, richer in color than othis other Grenaches – almost purple.  Good cherry fruits on the palate. February 2022

2017 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, $42 (#746)

94 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Sage-oil, tea-leaf and geranium notes meet with dried strawberry and rose petal on the spicy, earthy nose of this bottling. The palate is a mix of dried flowers and rocky minerality, with flavors of gravel, dried currant and more tea leaf making for a fascinating sip of century- old vines.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: Light, translucent ruby in color, but richer, more tannic flavors.February 2022

2016 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, 14% ABV, $42 (#747)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Dark, translucent ruby in color. Dark berries and smooth tannins on the palate.  IMHO, one of his best Grenache wines. March 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone AVA, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#748) 72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Mandarin orange and cherry notes on the nose.  Palate had more heft, complexity than usual.  Hands down one of our favorite of his Grenache-Syrah blends.  May 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#749)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc…Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components, envelope the nose. On the palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.” 109 cases produced.

My Review: Lean, a bit austere with musty flavors. February 2022 February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV, $30 (#750)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Reminiscent of old world wine making Bayly Ranch is an etherial expression of Cabernet Franc. Notes of bright berries and mild spices…”

My Review:  Richer, rounder, chewier that the Bates, with cherry and dark berry flavors. Black pepper on the finish. I prefer this wine; my partner prefers the Bates. February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Fellom Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#751)

Winemaker’s Notes: “First planted in the 40s and abutting the classic Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain property, Fellom Ranch produces among the most sought after grapes in California…Deep dark purple. Aromas of black current, cherries, clove spice, toasted oak, and cocoa. On the palate, lush & ripe, bramble fruit, enters med-full bodied, supple tannin and acid tension structure. Lovely wine, with pleasure to fill the palate, today, and years to come.”

My Review:  Ruby, purple in the glass. Some chocolate notes on the nose with smooth, rich berries on the palate.  I will do my best to hold this for an appropriate drinking time frame. February 2022

2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, $22 (752)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.”

93 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This blend of 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre speaks so strongly to the terroir of the Central Coast as it is loaded from nose to finish with dewy sagebrush, crisp freshness and peppery spice. It begins with aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and herb, then settles comfortably into a firmly textured palate of oregano, pepper, sandalwood and more red fruit.” Matt Kettmann

My Review:  We tasted this wine out of order. Lovely, light, lean yet good. Always a favorite. February 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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“Shopping” at Home Yields Interesting I Brand Varietals and Vintages!

I’ve been saving up these reviews for a single I Brand post. One of the things I really like about Ian’s wines is his boldness to expose us to varietals which we might not even have heard of – and to do them very well. The Arneis in this post is one of those – the Melon de Bourgogne was another we really enjoyed. And we tend to enjoy the Grenache wines – a varietal lighter than our normal fare, but one I Brand also does very well. His Cabernet Francs fascinate me – different in style from each other and always just a tad leaner than some of the big Cab Francs we tend to get around here. We’ve also been digging deep into our wine room and found some hidden treasures, like the 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah. 

I have 6 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2012-2020 and covering Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2020 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $30 (#633*)

We invited our neighbor over to our sunny patio on this January day and decided to try this Arneis, a varietal I did not know! 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Pale golden yellow in the glass. Bosch pear with orange blossom and lime notes on the nose. Fresh and flinty, it opened up to be a lovely wine with round, flavors of grilled pineapple with a touch of olive juice and lime on the finish. An excellent summer patio wine. January 2022

2019 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#634*)

I needed an orange wine for a Halloween wine class and chose this one from my wine room!  Ian Brand’s orange wax was a great tip that this would be the right wine for our purpose!  I reviewed the 2018 vintage in this blog in December 2020 here: https://decantingmonterey.com/i-brand-family-inching-our-way-to-central-coast-wines/. 

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Light orange like a lollipop in the glass.  Very smooth on the palate with a pleasant tartness on the finish.  We liked this wine. October 2021

2017 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $30 (#635*)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Wine Crush: “This Grenache is mostly sourced from Monterey; it is de-stemmed and stainless steel fermented. The color is extremely pale ruby with, clean ripe aromas of both black and red cherry. Notes of sarsaparilla and a delicate restrained earthy quality.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bodied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of rosewater and red currant.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020

My Review: A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with light cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021

2014 La Marea Grenache, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 14.1% ABV, $38 (#636*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish.  September 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.3% ABV, $42 (#637*)

About Bates Ranch: “Bates Ranch, the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains…located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road… We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet Franc planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of the vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components on the nose. On palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure.  Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.”

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Dark ruby in color.  Red fruits on the nose.  Smooth and fresh, with a medium palate of raspberry, cherry and plum. This is a lighter, more delicate Cab Franc – a great food wine.  January 2022

2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $22 (#638*)

Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Ian Brand’s stab at this grape shows a lot of black rock minerality and bloody meats on the nose, layered across blueberry syrup and sour cherry elements. The palate is much lighter than other takes on this varietal, showing menthol-laced flavors of blackberries and tobacco.” Matt Kettmann, June 2015

My Review: Inky ruby in the glass.  Dark plum and blueberry on the nose.  Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate, enveloped by a licorice finish.  October 2021

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Mount Eden: One of the Original Boutique California Wineries!

We’ve been consuming some really good, older California Cabernet Sauvignon and French Bordeaux wines lately.  These wines can be incredible when one is able to demonstrate self-restraint and hold onto them.  We are talking about wines are made to age vice more recent trends to make them consumable young. 

Going shopping in our own collection, my husband dug out this well-aged Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains. At 21 years old, it was deemed “old enough to drink” by Mr. H. This wine has sparked a whole conversation about a Decanting Monterey Wine Pod excursion to that region in the near future. What’s your favorite winery from the Santa Cruz Mountains?  Where else should we go? Please leave me a comment!

About Mount Eden: “Mount Eden Vineyards is a small historic wine estate perched at 2000 feet overlooking Silicon Valley in the Santa Cruz Mountain Appellation, about 50 miles south of San Francisco. Founded in 1945, it is recognized as one of the original “boutique” California winery properties, focusing on small lots of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Mount Eden’s lineage of estate bottled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is the longest in California.  Planted in austere, infertile Franciscan shale on a cool, exposed mountaintop, these low-yielding estate vineyards have consistently produced world-class wines for over a half-century. In 2007 Mount Eden acquired an additional 55 acre wine estate in the Saratoga foothills, which was christened Domaine Eden…”

About Mount Eden Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: “The heritage of Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon dates back to the 1890s, when the famed viticulturist Emmett Rixford of Woodside, California, obtained selected cuttings from Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux, France. Rixford planted his famous La Questa Vineyard with these selections, in the same proportions as found at Margaux.

“In the late 1940s Martin Ray planted his first Cabernet vineyard with cuttings from the La Questa Vineyard. The present-day Estate Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted in the early 1980s using cuttings taken from these vines. Yields are low, typically one to two tons per acre. Soils are very thin (1-12 inches), with a dominant base of Franciscan shale. The climate is cool, especially for Cabernet, and influenced by the vineyard’s altitude and its proximity to San Francisco bay and the Pacific Ocean. The vines are trellised in a modern fashion, which allows for a more uniform ripening. The vineyard also contains small blocks of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.”

2001 Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, $118 (release: $35) (#631*)

About the 2001 Vintage: “Followers of California Cabernet vintages have by now heard the good news about the 2001 vintage. Full crop levels, superb moderate weather, no rain at harvest, ideal picking, and so it was on this mountaintop.”

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “This ageable wine is young and tannic now, with an astringent finish. Cherry and blackberry stuffing is down there for the long haul. Best after 2010 and beyond.” 6/2005

My Review: Very dark in color.  Bell pepper and mellow on the nose.  Medium weight with a smooth palate.  Upon opening, some bell pepper and cherry on the plate with a touch of ash on the finish.  By day 2, darker berries and smoke on the palate with dark cherry flavors on the finish. February 2022

Visiting Mount Eden (from their website): “Located up a remote two-mile private road, Mount Eden is delighted to offer tasting by appointment…Seated on our veranda with beautiful views of the Santa Clara Valley, you will taste three of our highly rated wines.” Weekdays only for 6 or fewer guests – see reservation information here. 

Bargetto Scores a Silver Medal for its Dolcetto!!

In our early days in Monterey back in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s, we occasionally tried Bargetto wines down on Cannery Row.  Way back then, we were tasting Napa and Sonoma wines and were not impressed. But things have changed, both on the winery’s end and in my exploration of Central Coast Wines.  When my wine class chose a theme of Dolcetto wines, I decided to go local! 

Here are a few highlights from this good writeup of Dolcetto here: “Dolcetto is a dark-skinned wine grape from the Monferrato hills of northwestern Italy…Often viewed as Piedmont’s third red-wine grape, Dolcetto is something of a poor cousin to Nebbiolo and Barbera…A typical Dolcetto wine is intensely and brightly colored and offers dark, gently spicy aromas with earthy undertones of almonds – or walnuts in more tannic examples…”

About Bargetto: “The Bargetto winemaking heritage began with brothers Phillip and John Bargetto who from Castelnuovo Don Bosco, a small town in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. They brought with them years of winegrowing experience when they established BARGETTO WINERY on the banks of Soquel Creek in California…The original Bargetto family winery was located in San Francisco from 1910-1917. The name of this winery was South Montebello Vineyard and Wine Company. With Prohibition on the horizon the winery was closed and the brothers moved to Soquel in 1917…The third generation of Bargettos now direct the operation of the winery. BARGETTO WINERY represents the oldest continuous-operation winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Their pioneering spirit continued with the establishment of Bargetto Regan Estate Vineyards, near Corralitos, California in 1992. Here, cool-climate varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Grigio are carefully nurtured to produce BARGETTO WINERY’s estate wines. In keeping with the family heritage, the winery also incorporates northern Italian varietals from its Estate Vineyard into its flagship LA VITA wine.”

2017 Bargetto Dolcetto SCM Regan Vineyard Heritage, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.5% AVA, $35 (#255*)  98% Dolcetto 2% Petite Sirah (290 cases produced)

The 2017 Bargetto Dolcetto received a Silver medal in the 2020 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition!

Winemaker’s Notes from the Bargetto Web Site: “This 2017 Dolcetto has a beautifully deep ruby red color, and opens with aromas of black cherry, black pepper, and toasty oak.  It follows with notes of plum, black cherry, savory spice, and floral potpourri on the palate.  This wine is full bodied, with big rich tannins.  Although Dolcetto is historically known for being a low-acid wine meant to be drunk early, this Santa Cruz Mountains rendition has plenty of acid and structure to age beautifully.” 

My Review:  Dark ruby red in color.  At first, the nose was plastic, violet and perfume.  After open for 1.5 hours, the “plastic” subsided and was replaced with cherry notes.  By the next day, I’d add red currant to the bouquet.  Palate at first continued the nose, but as it opened, some blueberry, more cherry and black currant emerged, a bit astringent with a very dry finish.  By the next day, this was a heavier, tasty red.  January 2021

You can purchase Bargetto wines here:  https://bargetto.com/ or visit them at their tasting room at 700-G Cannery Row, Monterey, or their historic winery and tasting room in Soquel.  Tastings are by reservation only.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

Samuel Louis Smith: “Unmanipulated Elegance” in Limited Production Wines**

I first became aware of Samuel Louis Smith wines when he started getting some pretty fine reviews from Vinous and Wine Enthusiast – consistently in the mid-90’s!  Like many of his contemporaries, he owns no vineyards himself but sources his grapes from regions and vineyards that allow him to “explore some other compelling, under-the-radar terroirs where my varietals shine” with a focus on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. K&L Wine Merchants did an interview with Samuel Louis Smith back in 2019 that provides the whole history of how Sam got into the wine business.  https://onthetrail.klwines.com/on-the-trail-blog/2019/5/24/keep-an-eye-on-this-guy-winemaker-samuel-louis-smith . 

From the SLS website, used with Sam’s permission

About the winery: “Samuel Louis Smith functions as a micro-négociant based in Salinas, California. Organic viticulture, mountainous sites, and minimal intervention in the cellar are tenets of the brand. SLS presents a compelling cross-section of the Central Coast, focusing on Sta. Rita Hills chardonnay, Monterey pinot noir, and Santa Cruz Mountains cool-climate syrah. The wines are made in a neoclassical style where light handling, wild fermentations, and stem inclusion in the reds create wines of place and purity, aroma and structure.

“In the future, the core of SLS will be made with dirty fingernails and estate grown grapes. For now, Sam is dedicated to sourcing fruit from the most distinctive honestly- and sustainably-farmed vineyards. He is also head winemaker at the historic Morgan Winery, a pioneer of organic viticulture and traditional winemaking in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.” 

About Sam (from link above): “Sam studied Economics, French, and Spanish at UC Santa Barbara. A nagging desire for wine knowledge and proximity to good surf led Sam to Bordeaux- the perfect place to spend a semester abroad. Coinciding with the iconic vintage of 2009, it opened his eyes to the world of haute cuisine and fine wine. Though somewhat reticent and cold, Sam’s Bordelaise host family ate and drank quite well; their pairing of confit de canard with ’89 Margaux on a cold Sunday afternoon in November still serves as an epiphanous moment for him.

“Wine and everything it embodies are still the most cerebral and inspiring experience for Sam. Making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley and cool-climate syrah in the Northern Rhône, and cutting his teeth as assistant winemaker for Margerum Wine Company gave him the opportunities to find where his palate and California’s cool, mountainous Central Coast terroir converge.” 

About the 2018 Vintage: “The vintage commenced with precipitation much below average, though reservoirs remained full through the season after a very wet 2017. January and February were warm, resulting in premature budbreak in select parcels, increasing worries of frost as nighttime temperatures dipped below freezing on February 23rd and 24th. Luckily, no harm was done, and the following months saw temperatures at, and often below, seasonal averages. 2018 was a classically cool growing season on the Central Coast- an epic year for SLS’s cool climate varietals.”

2018 Samuel Louis Smith Syrah Sandstone Terrace, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.9% AVA, $34 (#215*)

An elegant label for an elegant wine!

About the 2018 Syrah from the Samuel Louis Smith website: “A 50/50 blend of two personalities of syrah: the extremely cool-climate and coastal Gali vineyard, and the warmer, high elevation Zayante vineyard. These components come together to exude the spicy, floral, and feminine side of syrah.

“Gali is located in the Corralitos sub-district of the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. At the low elevation of 400 feet and approximately six miles from the ocean, this is one of the coolest sites in our lineup. Soils are clay loam weathered from sandstone and shale, formed on ancient submarine terraces. Though not fully organic, no herbicides are used and watering is quite minimal.

Photos of the Gali (l) and Zayante (r) Vineyards, used with permission from Sam!

“Zayante sits at 1,200 feet on the ocean side of the central Santa Cruz Montains, and was planted in 1988 by Greg Nolton. Own-rooted, dry-farmed, and certified organic, this is a true mountain site. Soils are Lompico clay loam- material that was weathered from sandstone, shale, conglomerate, and granodiorite.”

I asked Sam about the low alcohol in this wine, asking if it was the influence of his time in France to make a more elegant, food wine. He responded that his time in France “…bolstered my affinity for elegant wines that go well with food, and that are not fatiguing. I love wines that are poised, with moderate alcohol, and great acid and structure. Most of the vineyards I work with are organic or in conversion, and have lower yields, which means better flavor development at lower brix, permitting early harvesting for low alcohol and good flavor concentration…”

Winemaker’s Notes: “Deep magenta and medium bodied. Aromas of red and purple fruits, rose petal, and dried basil give way to savory flavors of black fruits, cured meat, and black pepper. Elegant tannins and bright acidity add persistence and length.”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: Fresh and snappy aromas of boysenberry sorbet and rose petals are also Pinot Noir-like on the nose of this Syrah. The palate is extremely floral, like sipping from a punch of rose petal and violet, with a backdrop of black raspberry and white pepper. Drink now–2038. https://www.winemag.com/buying-guide/samuel-louis-smith-2018-sandstone-terrace-syrah-santa-cruz-mountains/

My Review: Very deep color, vanilla blackberries and spice on the nose. Smooth on the palate with blueberry and cedar flavors, a bit acidic, with a touch of spice and tobacco on the finish. This wine possesses a certain elegance and would be great with a meal.  A very pleasant Syrah.  December 2020

You can purchase Samuel Louis Smith wines on his webpage here:  http://www.samuellouiswines.com/wine/

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

**https://www.goldmedalwineclub.com/winery/samuel-louis-smith

Integrity: “honest, real, and one of a kind” wines “made for people by people”

Back in June, my DC wine friends decided the theme for our weekly class would be rosé – a perfect wine for a warm end-of-Spring day.  I dropped into Bottles N’ Bins in Monterey and asked what they had from local wineries.  I found a well-known wine on the shelves right away, but I wanted to explore something different.  The clerk wasn’t sure, so he made a call – we found 3 more options in their refrigerator, ready to drink.  I lined them all up, looked at their colors and selected the darkest one. I didn’t know about “orange wines” when I selected this wine – turns out that was what I had.

From Cal Wine Jaunt:  “Integrity Wines offers flights of wine on Aviation Way (Watsonville, CA). The Integrity tasting room and production site is just steps from the Watsonville airport. Owner, Mark Hoover, recently opened the doors to his “urban winery.” Mark prefers to travel around and choose the grapes that he likes for his wines. He decided to skip the land and vineyards, source the grapes he wants, and focus on producing wines. It always helps to know your own goals and strengths. And Mark knows he would rather make wine than grow wine…

“Mark has been making wine since the ’80s with 2018 marking his third year of production. For some time his friends kept encouraging him and his talent for making wines…To his credit, Mark’s wines are holding their own. His 2016 Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay won a Silver Metal in the Monterey National Wine Competition. Sip Integrity wines made with grapes from the Santa Lucia Highlands, Sonoma, Napa, and of course, local Bay Area vineyards. Integrity wines are made for people, by people.

“When pouring a bottle, you’ll notice the thumbprint logo was placed directly where one grabs the bottle. I think of the thumbprint as a nod towards the tech industry, one’s unique identity and authenticity. For my tasting friend, the thumbprint brought to mind being honest, real, and one of a kind. The thumbprint evokes images and meaning to each of us. But in the end, what we put our hand to is very significant. Mark Hoover has put his hand to making wines.”

2017 Integrity Rosé, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $16 (#82*) 90% Pinot Gris (Monterey County) 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This rosé is really more of an orange wine than a classic rosé.

Winemaker’s Notes: 2017 Rosé of Pinots Monterey County. 90% Pinot Grigio (Monterey County) and 10% Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains.) On the nose: strawberry, chalk, and graham cracker. On the palate: soft watermelon. Serve with fresh feta, mint, and watermelon, along with grilled chicken skewers. https://www.calwinejaunt.com/sip-and-tell-blog/integrity-wines-watsonville-wine-flights-plane-flights )

My Review: A bold pink, almost orange in color from the Pinot Gris, which naturally has an orange hue.  Powerful floral nose of honeysuckle and lemongrass.  Refreshing, bold palate with bright acidity and a lingering finish.  This wine did not disappoint.

You can obtain this wine directly from the winery or locally at Bottles N’ Bins Liquors on Lighthouse Avenue in Monterey.  I have not checked their inventory lately.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

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