Tagged: Seabold Cellars

Another Chink in the Legacy of Monterey Wines

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THE STORY

I was eating my lunch at the kitchen table, reading the Carmel Pine Cone, as I typically do.  I opened the January 10th edition to the real estate section and found this ad on page 42:

It’s an ad for a Bernardus Vineyard consisting of “32-acres of vines comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Petite Syrah and Merlot.The wines produced from the vineyard are consistently awarded 90+ scores for their quality and structure that will age.”

I just about fell out of my chair and immediately called out to my husband. This sounded like Bernardus’ Marinus Vineyard – from which their founder Ben Pon fulfilled his dream to make a Bordeaux-style wine right here in Carmel Valley (in Monterey County). I was devastated to read this news, as the Marinus and Marinus Signature blends made from these grapes, are my favorite Bernardus wines.  We have been long-time members of their Marinus club and have enjoyed their Marinus dinners over the past few years – my favorite event of the year.

At the most recent such dinner in 2024, which I wrote about in this post 2024 Bernardus Marinus Dinner – Nothing Short of Spectacular!, we heard for the first time the full, colorful history of the founding of this vineyard and the beginnings of the winery. It is quite a moving story. Knowing this news now and looking back on that dinner, I can see why the telling of those stories was so emotional for the winery staff as well. This must have been a difficult decision to make.

The Bernardus Marinus wines are quality, age-worthy wines.  I fear this marks the end of an era, but perhaps it is simply an expression of the trends in consumption and maybe even climate.  After all, even though we might feel like these wineries are providing us a service and we may be way too attached to wines from certain vineyards, winemaking at the end of the day is a business and wineries must follow the trends and the fruit to achieve their bottom lines.

THE SIGNS WERE THERE

We knew something was up when tons of the 2017 Marinus showed up at Costco for a fraction of their retail price (we bought as much as we could).  In addition, at the Marinus dinner, there was talk about no longer making a separate Marinus Bordeaux-style blend and just making the higher end Signature.  Now I understand why. Bernardus will still make a high-quality reserve Bordeaux-style blend, just not from that vineyard. But from where?  What fruit will match the quality and historical significance of their own estate vineyard?

And, while Bernardus was a key, early player in the Carmel Valley AVA, it is widely known for its “Monterey County” wines available nation-wide and its reputation has been soaring with its high-quality vineyard-designate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands. I have written about all their wines many times. You can find those posts by typing “Bernardus” in the Decanting Monterey search bar.  Those varietals are what Monterey County is more broadly known for.

Bernardus’ Vineyard-designate Trio of Pinot Noirs

I want to say up front in this post that I’m telling you this story off the top of my head – any errors are mine and mine alone – and do let me know if corrections need to be made. 

THINGS THEY BE A-CHANGING

We’ve seen so much change in our Monterey wineries and vineyards.  Often it is because the original owners have aged out or passed away and their heirs don’t want to continue to produce wine.  It’s sad. Because many of these vintners were the founders of winemaking in this region. We have seen Talbott and Hahn labels and winemaking taken over by Gallo Wines.  We saw Galante, which still produces wines, sell its vineyards and winery to newcomer Tira Nanza, who shows great promise.  We saw Joullian close and be put up for sale. The Massa Estate is also for sale – the Durney legacy vineyards of some of the most prized Cabernet Sauvignon fruit in Carmel Valley/Cachagua. Pierce Ranch Vineyards down in San Antonio Valley AVA closed its tasting room in 2023 and decided to focus on selling its fruit. And the Boekenoogen family recently chose to stop wine production, with Santa Lucia Highlands locals McIntyre Vineyards taking over its tasting room and inventory. And Manzoni has kept their vineyard, while selling its tasting room and winemaking to younger players. So much change. Most recently, and last I heard, we’ve seen a merger of newer players Seabold Cellars into San Benito’s Eden Rift.

Monterey County AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association

Maintaining a quality vineyard is a hard job, with the threats of fire and drought around the corner.  In some of our conversations with vineyard owners, they have no interest in bottling their own juice, as it means lots of road time to market their product.  Our Monterey County grapes are much sought after by wineries outside of Monterey County.  Having the Santa Lucia Highlands designation on a bottle means something.  Carmel Valley is less widely known, but remains my favorite AVA within Monterey (oops, I’m not supposed to have favorites).

Carmel Valley AVA Map from the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association

And then there is the overall downturn in wine consumption and climate change, affecting wineries across the globe.  Some vineyards are ripping out grapes or have left their fruit to rot on the vines.  We are at a critical juncture. As one local vintner put it, it’s the “ebb and flow” of the business.

NOW WHAT?

My first reaction about the sale of the Bernardus Marinus Vineyard was pure incredulity.  I kind of took it personally. I did communicate with the winery and I know what a tough decision this was for them. I know they will do their best to continue to produce a high-quality Bourdeaux-style blend to keep their consumers like me happy. I personally hope they can find the fruit from the Carmel Valley AVA, but I might be asking for too much.

Then I started to have crazy thoughts – like how we could pull together a consortium of wine aficionados/investors and vineyard/winemaking experts to purchase this prize property.  It’s fun to think about, but that’s a long stretch. It would be WORK. And I’ve already got a good gig – I’m retired. And as my good friend and Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member says, “The best way to make a small fortune (in winemaking) is to start with a large fortune.”  Nope, I checked…I don’t have one.

So, all I am left with is hope.  Hope that someone who cares about those quality grapevines will buy the vineyard and help preserve Ben Pon’s legacy of making a quality Bordeaux-style blend from Carmel Valley. 

That’s my think piece for today. I’ve gotten over myself. Not a single wine review in today’s post. See, anything is possible.

Heather Rammel and Jim McCabe of Bernardus Wine

Let’s all raise a toast to the Marinus Vineyard and Ben Pon’s legacy!

© Decanting Monterey 2025

*FOLLOW ME ON Instagram, Facebook, and CELLAR TRACKER: Central Coast Sharon

BOLD Wine Co: “exciting, affordable, sustainably-grown”

This is Post Two about Seabold wines, today’s post focused on BOLD Wine Co.  For more about Seabold, please see the 6/14 post. When I did my tasting at Seabold, I was told they came up with the name the night before the bottle labels needed to be printed.  They thought of the Monterey Bay and the ocean breezes and their desire to be bold in the creation of their wines. Literally Sea Bold. BOLD Wine Co is the label for wines Chris Miller, the proprietor and winemaker, gets to play and experiment with.  From their website:

BOLD Wine Co is the label for wines the winemaker gets to play and experiment with.  From their website:

“We believe that everyone should have access to delicious and balanced wines that speak to their place of origin. Every year we work with new vineyards and varieties for Seabold Cellars; those first few vintages, the new wines that we find promising are released under the BOLD Wine Co label. We produce exciting, affordable, sustainably-grown wines from the Monterey Peninsula.”

The quotes below come from the Seabold web page https://www.seaboldcellars.com/ or from their tasting sheet.  

2017 BOLD Wine Co Grenache Rosé, Paso Robles AVA, 13.4% ABV, $20 (#378*)

Winery Notes: “Drs. Serena Friedman and Michael “Farmer Mickey” Drucker built up this 400-acre ranch from scratch with their bare hands. Incredibly hard workers and tireless proponents of the Paso Robles region, they grow mostly Bordeaux and Rhône varieties…Red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper, dried lavender, red currant.” 120 cases produced

My Review: Vibrant salmon in the glass – a lot of time on the skins. Very sweet nose – almost bright cherry, followed by full-bodied strawberry cream on the palate. Like a strawberry shortcake! I would love this in a bubbly version! May 2021

2018 BOLD Wine Co Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, 13.7% ABV, $25 (#379*)

Winery Notes: “Balestra is located just north of the Santa Lucia Highlands on a well-drained alluvial bed of coarse loam and clay, which combined with its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, delays ripening while retaining low pH levels. Olson is one of our favorite vineyards in Monterey County, 4 miles off the Pacific Ocean, with bracing acidity. Unfortunately, while the Pinot Noir quality is outstanding, yields are typically just about 1 ton per acre…Crushed raspberry, balsamic strawberry, rhubarb, white mushroom.”  Whole cluster pressed, native yeast fermentation. 412 cases produced

My Review: Bright cherry in the glass.  Slightly sweet cherry on the nose – classic Pinot Noir.  Cherry Jolly Rancher on the palate.  Agree with the hibiscus tea! May 2021

2019 BOLD Wine Co Carignan, Redwood Valley, 13.6% ABV, $25  (#380*) 82 cases produced

Vineyard Notes: “REDWOOD VALLEY At a higher elevation and cooler temperature than much of surrounding Mendocino County, Redwood Valley has warm days and intensely cold nights, leading to a long ripening season that often lasts into November. The winemaking tradition here goes back to the mid-1800s, with small plots of original plantings from that era…VINCENZO VINEYARD First planted in 1918, Vincenzo is owned and cared for by the grandchildren of the original farmer. Organic and dry-farmed since its planting, the old-vine head-trained vines here are remarkably healthy and yield intensely flavored wines.”

Winery Tasting Notes: “Campfire, blueberry skins, black raspberry, star anise, violets, and charred meat.”

My Review: Beautiful ruby – a tad purple.  Berry/cherry on the nose – like a Pinot Noir! Smooth on the palate brimming with delicious berry flavors. Just when I was thinking I was done exploring Carignan, I found this Carignan, which I liked a lot! May 2021

You can buy BOLD Wine online or at the Seabold Tasting Room, 3 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village.  They are open Thursday-Sunday, 12-5 p.m. and by appointment (831-288-2730).

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

Seabold: BOLD-ly Creating Coastal Wines

Now that things are opening up, it is time to go exploring – discover some newer wineries I haven’t tried before.  On a chilly Memorial Day Sunday on the coast, I went for warmth and wine, finding both in Carmel Valley Village.  

Back when I first started Decanting Monterey, I had driven out to the valley to take pictures and noted a new tasting room.  I had never heard of Seabold and put it on my list to come back and try.  One pandemic later, it was time!  Seabold’s location makes it a visible stop for wine connoisseurs and tourists alike. I received first class treatment from Katianna. She brought me the wines individually so I could learn about each one. The quotes below come from the Seabold web page or from their tasting sheet.  

About Seabold:  “Seabold Cellars was established in the Monterey Bay region because we believe that cool-climate organic and sustainable vineyards produce balanced wines that showcase their origin more than their winemaking. During the year, more time is spent in vineyards than the winery. Our winemaking is as hands-off as possible, respecting traditional techniques and practices without being beholden to them. We produce non-interventionist, site-specific Burgundy and Rhône varieties, as seen through a California lens.” They source their grapes from throughout the Central Coast – from Prunedale to Paso Robles and make their wines in nearby Marina!

“Seabold Cellars focuses on vineyards in the Monterey Bay area. This region has immense potential owing to geographic, geological, and climatic factors. Less than 100 yards offshore, the Blue Grand Canyon – at 60 miles long and 2 miles deep – is one of the world’s largest and deepest marine trenches. Its 300 cubic miles of frigid waters fuel the cold Salinas wind that moderates temperatures throughout all of Monterey County. As the wind funnels through the Gabilan and Santa Lucia Ranges, it creates a Thermal Rainbow – a large scale temperature gradation drawn through the length of the Salinas Valley.” 

I will be presenting Seabold’s wines in 2 separate posts: Seabold Cellars and BOLD Wine Co. Seabold Cellars wines are single vineyard and BOLD are wines Chris Miller, the proprietor and winemaker, gets to experiment and have fun with. Today’s post is about Seabold Cellars’ wines!

2018 Seabold Cellars Pinot Blanc, Rodnick Farm, Chalone AVA, 13.1% ABV, $45 (#372*) 

Winery notes: “Established in the 1970s, this was the personal home and vineyard for legendary pioneer Dick Graff during his winemaking tenure at Chalone…Blanched almond, dried lemon peel, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. A broad, rich, glycerol mouthfeel with surprisingly fresh acidity.”

WINE ENTHUSIAST – 93 points, Editor’s Choice: “It’s always a joy to taste the old vines of Chalone, and this bottling captures their unique qualities, starting with aromas of apple syrup, hazelnut and toasted pecan. The palate offers almond, Meyer lemon and a creamy oak flavor that lingers on the tongue for a long time—all very unique elements.” MATT KETTMANN https://www.winemag.com/buying-guide/seabold-cellars-2018-rodnick-farm-old-vines-pinot-blanc-chalone/ 

My Review: Golden in the glass. A little musty parmesan and bitter citrus rind on the nose.  Round, bold flavors on the palate with lemon/citrus peel.  Very flavorful, powerful on the palate, with a lingering finish.  I would have guessed a higher % ABV for the flavor.  This was my favorite, most notable, of the wines I tasted today. May 2021

2019 Seabold Cellars Grenache Blanc, Mission Ranch, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#373*)

Vineyard notes: “Steve McIntyre – one of the most knowledgeable and experienced winegrowers in California – farms this plot of land. Increasingly we find ourselves impressed with the quality of aromatic white varieties from Arroyo Seco, and this site has shown immense promise very early on for us…”

Tasting Sheet notes: “Juicy guava, agave nectar, papaya, persimmon, white pepper”

My Review: Straw in the glass with a faint nose of tropical fruits.  Delicious tropical fruits carrying through the palate.  Smooth, refreshing and light – perfect for a hot, sunny day in Carmel Valley! May 2021

Seabold’s tasting room proudly displays the rocks that distinguish our Central Coast vineyards.

2018 Seabold Cellars Chardonnay, Olson Vineyard, Prunedale, Monterey AVA, 13.1% ABV, $40 (#374*)

Vineyard Notes: “The Olsons have been the owners and caretakers since 1882, and have always farmed the entire property organically. The vineyard, dramatically towering above Highway 101, is composed of weathered sandstone with some clay atop iron pan subsoils. One of the coldest vineyards in all of California, it is only 5 unobstructed miles from the Monterey Bay’s icy waters.”

Tasting Sheet Notes: “Cured lemon peels, sea spray, clover honey, tart nectarines, fresh apricot, “crunchy” acid profile, fresh heavy cream.”  Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak.

My Review: Bouquet of earth and grass.  Bright acidity on the palate – brimming with citrus flavors of lemon lime.  I learned they like to make their wines on the acidic side – this one is a bit too acidic for me! May 2021

2017 Seabold Cellars Pinot Noir, Pelio Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.3% ABV, $45  (#375*)

Vineyard Notes: “Pelio is located in a wind-beaten, high-elevation, undulating series of hills 8 miles from the coast. The vineyard sits mid-slope, facing the Pacific Ocean, with an average elevation of 1000’. The temperature rarely rises above the 70s, with very cold diurnal shifts…” Located off the Laureles grade, they only grow Chardonnay & Pinot Noir. 

Winery Tasting Notes: “Fresh pomegranate, cranberry, pluot, green tea, grey salt, black raspberry, rose, lavender, white mushroom, roasted thyme, nutmeg.”

My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass.  Lovely bouquet of berry jam and black tea. Round, jammy fruit with notes of cranberry layered with blackberry and tea.  I liked this wine. May 2021

The Seabold tasting room is prominently located at the beginning of Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village

You can buy Seabold wines online or at their tasting room, 3 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley Village.  They are open Thursday-Sunday, 12-5 p.m. and by appointment (831-288-2730).

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

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