Tagged: Syrah

Parsonage: Back to the Estate with 2017 Releases!

While Parsonage ingeniously sourced fruit from elsewhere in the aftermath of the 2016 Soberanes Fire, we are glad their 2017 vintages are being released! We tasted these wines at a soft-opening test of their COVID-19 social-distancing procedures back in June 2020. 

Parsonage learned a lot from our dry run of their pandemic tasting procedures. Heh.

Parsonage was the winery that showed us Carmel Valley could make the kinds of big reds I love and is the reason I am a Syrah fan these days.  In addition to the big Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah wines and blends, Parsonage makes some delicious, big Pinot Noirs – their Estate Pinot Noir (below) and their reserve “Hawk” Pinot Noir (reviewed here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/).

2017 Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $42 (#77*)

The Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir – their lightest red – is still a BIG wine!

Winemaker’s Notes: “While this is the lightest red we make, it’s still bigger than your average Pinot Noir. An easy drinker, this wine does not need to be paired with food. But we like it with roast chicken, salmon or even some cheese and crackers. We get ripe cranberry and a hint of Earl Grey tea. Mouth-watering acidity and elegance on the luscious vibrant finish.” This wine spent ~8 months in neutral oak. 

My Review: I’m not a big Pinot Noir fan, yet I really enjoy the richer style of Parsonage’s Pinots. Less complex than the “Hawk,” this is a wonderful, enjoyable wine – smooth and delicious fruit on the bouquet and palate, with a little lingering bitterness.  June 2020

2017 Parsonage Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $42 (#87*)

So happy to have the estate wines back – the 2017 Syrah!

Winemaker’s Notes:  “Big and rich is a great way to describe our 2017 Estate Syrah. Perfect balance and fully ripened tannins allow for a big, beautiful finish without dissonance. The bouquet is a swirl of toasted French oak vanillins that perform an olfactory fakeout with the very ripe Syrah skins that together say caramel mocha. Right behind that is a ripe black raspberry/black currant fusion. All of these aromatics manifest on the palate creating a melange of bittersweet chocolate caramel accented with sea salt (derived from the umami flavor of Parsonage terroir).”

My Review: Deep purple in color.  Black cherry on the nose. Palate bursting with black fruit, spice and bay leaves. June 2020

You can obtain these wines directly from Parsonage here and pick them up at the tasting room onr have them shipped to you.  Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5  and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.

Estate Vines at Parsonage.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

I. Brand & Family: “What we do is simple, without artifice, and we enjoy it.”

I needed a Grenache for my wine class a few weeks ago and found this I. Brand & Family blend in our wine room.

I wrote about I. Brand & Family previously in this post:  https://decantingmonterey.com/ian-brand-discovering-great-vineyards-at-the-edge-of-sensible-farming/ with reviews of some of his P’tit Paysan and La Marea lines.  To add to that is this statement from I. Brand & Family:  “We are not in “wine country” nor do we have trophy wineries. This is farm land, desolate hills, and solitude. What we do is simple, without artifice, and we enjoy it.”

Today I am bringing you one of their wines from the Chalone AVA, which I introduced you to last week here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/cima-collina-transitioning-from-san-antonio-to-the-chalone-ava/. The I. Brand & Family label represents their higher end wines. 

About Chalone Vineyard: “Perched in the remote Gavilan Mountain Range, 1,800 feet above California’s Salinas Valley, this rugged vineyard sits at the base of an extinct volcano bordering the Pinnacles National Park. Chalone Vineyard is one of the few wineries in the U.S. growing grapes in limestone-based soils, the same as in Burgundy…”

2018 I. Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#151*)  72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

The grapes for this I. Brand & Family wine are sourced from the Chalone Vineyard.

My Review: Transluscent cherry in color.  Sweet warm berries on the nose with a big burst of raspberry and cherry on the palate, yet light and refreshing, with subtle tannins enveloped in light caramel on the finish. A little SweeTart with a toasted marshmallow finish. September 2020

I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM to order wines or reserve a tasting. 

*Refers to wines tasted while sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Cima Collina: Transitioning from San Antonio to the Chalone AVA!

While hunting down a rosé for a summer wine class, I noticed a 2013 Cima Collina Syrah from Chalone AVA – a Monterey County Syrah for under $25!  Since I am not very familiar with Cima Collina or the Chalone AVA, and I love our Monterey Syrahs, I thought I’d give it a try.  What a pleasant surprise!  I also picked up a 2014 Cima Collina Syrah Tre Gatti Vineyards from the San Antonio AVA – we did a blind tasting of this wine over the weekend. Our friends guessed this was a new world Zinfandel, Syrah, and even one vote for a Petite Sirah.

About the Chalone AVA (from Monterey Vintners & Growers Association):  “The Chalone region is nestled at 1,800 feet in elevation in the central part of the Gavilan Mountain Range – set against the dramatic backdrop of Pinnacles National Monument. This region has a long history of grape growing, dating back to 1919. Here are found the oldest producing vines in Monterey County. Chalone was awarded its own AVA designation in 1982. Because of its elevation in the mountain range, Chalone is truly unique among Monterey County’s appellations…” Read more about the Chalone AVA here.

Map of the Chalone AVA from Monterey Vintners and Growers Association (link above).

About Cima Collina from A Taste of Monterey: “Cima Collina produces artisan wines from small Monterey vineyards. The idea of an “artisan wine” is the partnership with growers who meticulously cultivate vineyards, the insistence on using only carefully chosen fruit, and the creation of wine on a barrel-by-barrel basis.

“The focus on Monterey vineyards is an acknowledgment that this region is now and will continue to produce wines that are interesting, compelling and unique. Many factors conspire to make this a truly gifted region for growing grapes. With the cool maritime climate, well-drained soils and energy of their winemaking colleagues, a dynamic renaissance is currently underway in our region.

“From the rugged Big Sur coastline to the prairie lands of south Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco, every vineyard develops its own set of diverse flavors. It is their passion to discover these local flavors and produce unfined, unfiltered wines that reflect a sense of place. Each of their food-friendly current releases, reflect Winemaker Annette Hoff Danzer’s commitment to authentic artisan winemaking, with dedicated growers, carefully chosen fruit and the creation of wine on a barrel-to-barrel basis.”

Cima Collina has had a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village since 2012.  I learned that Albatross Ridge had moved into that tasting room.  What I didn’t realise at the time  was that Albatross Ridge actually took over both the winery and tasting room in 2019 after the death of one of the prime family members running the business. 

2013 Cima Collina Syrah Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $23 (#84*)

This 2013 Cima Collina Syrah from Chalone is a rich, delicious wine.

Winemaker Notes condensed from the label: The Antle Vineyard is “…on the southeastern edge of the Salinas Valley in a protected, warm, beautiful south-west facing site of decomposed granite/gravelly loam soil…:  This wine is made from a “…“Phelps” clone of Syrah – the oldest clone of Syrah in California…” This wine “…is lush with textrue & fruit but also offers layers of complexity often missed in California Syrah as it furnishes aromas & flavors of licorice, rosemary, white pepper with a seamless, delicious mouthfeel and finish…”

My Review: This was a big, dense wine and reminiscent of an Australian Shiraz.  Very full and smooth on the palate.  Cassis on the finish.  We really liked this wine and bought more of it.  As of 10/2, there was at least one bottle of this vintage left at Bottles n’ Bins in Pacific Grove.  Worth finding this Syrah from the Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA in another vintage. June 2020

2014 Cima Collina Syrah Tre Gatti Vineyards, San Antonio AVA, Montrey County, 13.5% ABV, $23 (#148*)

This 2014 Cima Collina Syrah from San Antonio was quite tart upon opening.

Winemaker Notes from the label:  “Tre Gatti is a carefully managed 5 acre vineyard in the southernmost reaches of Monterey County…planted on…a southern-facing rocky hillside whitewashed with limestone-rich soil.  The head-trained vines are a unique selection of Syrah that produces lower yields and uncommonly small berries in compact clusters.  We vinified these grapes in open-top fermenters then aged the resulting wine in French Oak for 14 months.” 

My Review: Purple in color. Unfiltered.  Deep red fruit and pepper on the nose. Acidic, sour cherry on the palate “like sucking like a cherry Jolly Rancher.” After the tartness dissipated, one of our friends indicated they liked it. I’d say stick with the Antle Vineyard, Chalone AVA Syrah from Cima Collina, if you can find it. October 2020

The 2012 vintage of the Cima Collina Syrh Tre Gatti Vineyards was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.  You can find that review here.

 *Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Morgan: “artisan, vineyard-centric wines” from SLH and Monterey

I belong to a virtual wine class with my Washington DC friends and a recent class was focused on Syrah – from anywhere.  I was at Andronico’s and found this 2018 Morgan Syrah G17 on sale for $23.  I don’t know Morgan wines as well as I should, so I picked one up to try. 

Distilled from Morgan’s website: Dan Morgan Lee was first “…hired as winemaker at Jekel Winery in Monterey County.  After serving his apprenticeship at Jekel, Dan moved up the road to Durney Vineyard where he continued to make Monterey wines…Dan aspired to craft his own label. It was at a meeting of the Monterey County Winegrowers Association that he shared his vision with a banker. In addition to becoming his business advisor, that banker would also become Dan’s wife…

After initial success and many awards, “…Dan eventually turned more of his attention to the Santa Lucia Highlands and single vineyard releases. Dan and Donna invested in their belief in the Highlands with the purchase of the Double L Vineyard in 1996. Today the Double L is one of the best known vineyards in California. Dan’s leadership and expertise in the district led to his being named the first Board President of the newly formed Santa Lucia Highlands’ winegrowers association in 2005.”

2018 Morgan Syrah G17, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $25 (#111*) 94% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 3% Tempranillo

According to Morgan Winery: The Morgan G17 “…is sourced primarily from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco Appellations of Monterey County. Cool to moderate daytime temperatures are mitigated by ocean breezes and cool nights – fostering acidity and balance. Here the fog burns off early, allowing ample sunshine to warm temperatures to the mid 80’s during the summer and fall. The warm air draws cool winds from Monterey Bay in the late afternoon. By night time, temperatures cool to the mid 50’s.”

While Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate in SLH, I was delighted to see this Morgan Syrah made with grapes from these SLH and Arroyo Seco AVA vineyards: Paraiso, Double L, Tondré (SLH AVA); Griva and Ventana (Arroyo Seco AVA). 

This wine is named cleverly after G17, the California route number for River Road and beyond!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This Rhone-style blend has a garnet color, highlighted with purple edges. Blackberry, white pepper, graphite, and hints of smoked meat jump out of the glass. The wine is medium-full bodied with fine grained tannins, offering a mouthful of crème de violette and black fruit. Its weight and balance make it a perfect pairing with anything off the grill.”  It spent 10 months in 20% new French oak. 

Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 94 Points: “Lively aromas of black raspberry jam on French toast, dark hibiscus, tar and lavender show on the cool-climate nose of this bottling, which includes 3% each of Grenache and Tempranillo. The palate is vibrant with flavors of pepper, lavender and lilac, set against the richer black-raspberry and black-plum backdrop.”  Matt Kettmann, July 2020

My Review: Deep ruby in color, with a vibrant nose of dark berries and pepper.  A smooth, intense, deep palate of dark plum and blackberry, almost like an older wine in flavor, with a peppery menthol and leather finish.  To me, the spiciness is more reminiscent of some of the Shiraz wines I used to drink decades ago, a bit of a contrast to other Syrahs I’ve had from the Monterey (Salinas Valley floor), Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVAs.  July 2020

Morgan is open for patio tastings at the Crossroads Shopping Center in Carmel: Thursday – Sunday: 11:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.  For more information on making a tasting reservation, click here. You can find this wine on the winery webpage above or at our local Andronico’s and perhaps elsewhere locally.  You can also find it on www.wine.com and at  K&L Wine Merchants.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Wrath: Harnessing Angry Fog and Screaming Winds to Create Great Wines

I recently had a marvelous isolation birthday.  Beautiful walks, swimming, mahjongg on the patio, all followed by appetizers and a gourmet meal prepared by my favorite chef in my own home.  A wine was decanted – to my delight it was the 2015 Wrath Syrah.   Yum.  A few days later was Cinco de Mayo and we had a little party planned – takeout from Mando’s, our local Mexican joint, and margaritas!  Right before dinner, the UPS man arrived with our order of the 2016 Wrath Syrah and, for science, we had to taste it – but after our party.

We are venturing out of Arroyo Seco AVA and to the north to the Monterey AVA – the heart of the Salinas Valley.  According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association, the Monterey AVA was established 1984. Thanks to the local climate, it enjoys one of the longest growing seasons in the world, with a wide range of microclimates influenced by the Monterey Bay. The afternoon winds cool down the vineyards and the maritime fog keeps the temperatures from falling too low.  Over 50% of the grapes grown are Chardonnay. 

This area has been suffering the fires and smoke from the ongoing River Fire and I expect we will hear reporting soon from the damage.

The Vineyards of the Monterey AVA from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Webpage

We got to know Wrath years ago, as one of their tasting rooms is centrally located in the Carmel Shopping Plaza right off Ocean Avenue in quaint Carmel-By-The-Sea.  It was always a fun place to drop in to taste some great wines.  In the Spring of 2019, we took a family road trip down the River Road Wine Trail through the Salinas Valley to their winery and main tasting room in Soledad – it was the highlight of our trip.  The plan was to go back there in March 2020 with our new friends and have a picnic there.  Sigh…someday.  While their Syrah has always been one of my favorites, they make great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and I featured their delicious 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class.

About Wrath Wines from their website:  “Wrath is in the wall of maritime fog that rolls into the Salinas Valley and the relentless afternoon winds that scream through our grape trellises. Wrath wines represent a nexus of nature and an unbridled passion for winemaking.”  This description refers to the harsh conditions created by the cold waters of the Monterey Bay and the afternoon winds that come screaming even down my street and fog (like the heavy bank which rolled in last evening), reminding me daily that those winds and fog serve a purpose – to help us make great wine.

San Saba Vineyard Photo from our March 2019 Visit

A bit about the San Saba Vineyard from Wrath: “Our Estate San Saba Vineyard is set in a sheltered nook just below the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The estate consists of 72 acres of which 67.75 are planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Falanghina. This is a cool site with little rainfall and one of the longest growing seasons in the world. Our soils, Arroyo Gravelly Loam and Hanford Gravely Sandy Loam, provide a low-vigor, well-draining, disease- and pest-free medium for our vines. They also impart a subtle mineral quality to our wines…”

2017 Wrath EX Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey AVA, 13% ABV $20

This Sauvignon Blanc represented Monterey white wines very well for my Northern Virginia AWS class. Product photo from Wrath website.

About the EX Label: “Wrath is proud to announce the release of EX wines, our updated label that replaces the Ex Anima series. With a name meaning “out of” in Latin, EX speaks to our focus on expressing the personality and characteristics of our Certified Sustainable (SIP) estate vineyard. We harvest grapes at two different ripeness levels and then blend lots together to create a wine that encapsulates the best qualities of each lot. fermentation and aging take place in stainless tanks.”

The 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc is bright and vibrant with pronounced guava and gooseberries.  1023 cases produced.

Wine Enthusiast Review: ” Freshly cut lawn, wet cement, sour lime rinds, and kelp combine for a very unique and compelling nose on this bottling. The nose extends to the palate, where white pepper and crushed white-rock flavors make for a memorable sip.” 90 pts, Matt Kettmann, November 2018 

2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#38*)

The 2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard is a big, chewy wine, rated 90 points.

Review by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Advocate: “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Syrah San Saba Vineyard has a beguiling seaweed, dried Provence herbs and green tea nose over a core of black and red cherries, mulberries and garrigue. Full-bodied and firmly structured with chewy tannins, it has loads of earthy appeal and a long pepper and herbs-laced finish.”  90 points

My Review: This is one of our favorite Monterey wines and this vintage was excellent.  The color was incredibly dense and the flavors match the look. IMHO, this wine deserves a higher rating!

2016 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#41*)

The 2016 Wrath Syrah from the San Saba Vineyard received a well-deserved 95 point rating!

From Wrath Wines regarding the Wrath 2016 Syrah: “Grapes are hand harvested and hand sorted. Clonal lots are kept separate during fermentation. All our single vineyard syrahs use a similar whole cluster fermentation (20%) and oak regimen. This helps highlight the individual personality of each vineyard. After on-site bottling, the wine rests for another 12 months of bottle aging before release.”  100% French oak, 45% new.  298 cases were produced.

Wrath says this about the 2016 Syrah San Saba Vineyard:  “Powerful and elegant, aromatics include blackberry, leather and peppercorns; the palate is rich and concentrated with graphite, cassis, and a hint of smoke.” Jeb Dunnuck rated this wine 95 points! I would have to agree!!

My Review:  We found the 2016 Syrah to be similar to the 2015 in taste – very dense red with blueberry and blackberry on the nose.  Delicious smooth palate of alcohol-laced, dancing bright and dark fruits – berries and plums, lingering finish.  I highly recommend this wine if you are a Syrah fan. 

Wrath offers free ground shipping on case purchases of its wine, which you can purchase from its website. 

The San Francisco Chronicle published a list of the Top 10 Things to do in Monterey and Wrath’s tasting room is included in that list.  For more information on tasting Wrath wines, click here.  According to Wrath’s website, as of September 5th: “Inside tastings may be banned for now but at the winery tasting room, we have a large outdoor patio that is perfect for safe spacing and sampling our wines while enjoying the views. We are 5 minutes west of Hwy 101 and 20 minutes south of Salinas, off River Road.  In Carmel, we have moved our tasting room outside onto the center courtyard of Carmel Plaza (Ocean & Mission).  We don’t have a large amount of seating but we do have a nice fire pit to stay cozy on those foggy days that Carmel is so famous for.” 

Please give them a call to confirm, especially during these times of COVID and the River Fire – 831-620-1909.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage: Creative Sourcing Makes an Intriguing Portfolio

Many wineries source grapes from other vineyards and regions.  Some don’t even have their own vineyards and produce amazing wines through innovative sourcing.  Parsonage grows Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot on its 7-acre estate vineyard.  So where does this Carmel Valley winery get its other varietals – or grapes to supplement in the 2016 Soberanes Fire vintage?  From Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco – a great alternative! 

From Parsonage Wine: “Parsonage is a boutique, family-run vineyard and winery located in the heart of Carmel Valley. We produce big, bold, red wines at a small scale. We named our wine Parsonage because the Parsonage is where the Parson and his family live. We’d love to meet you on your next Carmel Valley wine tasting and are open Thursdays through Mondays by appointment.”

I’m presenting three wines which Parsonage sources from the Arroyo Seco AVA: the 2018 Grenache Rosé, the 2016 Grenache-Syrah, and their 2016 Cyrano Red Wine.    We tasted these wines with friends as we helped Parsonage test out their reopening operations during the COVID-19 pandemic. Parsonage says they learned a lot from our trial run.  😊

2018 Parsonage Grenache Rosé, Arroyo Seco AVA, 15% ABV, $29

2018 Parsonage Grenache Rosé – Light and Refreshing

From Parsonage Wine: “A perennial warm weather favorite. And a surprise to everyone who thinks they don’t like Rosé! Made with Grenache grapes. Refreshing and dry. We get raspberry and strawberry with back notes of spice and stone fruit. These elements play out on the palate with a delightful fullness and a crisp finish.”

My Review: The grapes for this wine comes from Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane vineyard in Arroyo Seco.  Very light in color, almost golden.  Peach and apricot – a very light and refreshing Rosé.  June 2020

2016 Grenache-Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, 15% ABV, $34.  70% Grenache, 30% Syrah

The 2016 Grenache-Syrah is a delicious blend.

The Parsonage Grenache-Syrah has frequently been a favorite.  The Parsonage Village Vineyard is quite small yet powerful.  They grow no Grenache and, with the Soberanes fire in the summer of 2016, their Syrah also needed to be sourced from another AVA.  Fortunately for us, their long-standing relationship with Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco provided them the capability to produce this vintage from a year that was extremely hard for Carmel Valley wineries.  This wine is on their Premium Tasting list – a big wine to start with right off the bat.

This is a classic Southern Rhone wine from Parsonage Wines: “This easy drinker pairs nicely with cheese & crackers. We joke that we should re-name it the “universal donor” even though that isn’t the perfect analogy. But you get the gist of it – this wine seems to be universally loved, no matter what your favorite varietal is. 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah. Fully dry. Medium-bodied but rich. Notes of black, red and blue fruit with a hint of spice on the finish..” 

My Review:  Dark fruit and a bit of alcohol on the nose.  Black tea, chai, white pepper and cinnamon on the palate.  A bit brash, but we liked it.  For a medium-bodied wine, it is a big one.  Must be that 15% alcohol on top of the fruit.  I re-tasted this wine in August and detected no brashness right out of the bottle – it was just a yummy wine. I need to get more of this vintage, if possible!! June 2020 and August 2020

2016 Parsonage Cyrano Red Wine, Arroyo Seco, 15% ABV, $26. 70% Merlot, 30% Syrah

The 2016 Cyrano is sourced from Arroyo Seco AVA.

Another Parsonage – this time an everyday wine and a favorite.  For a long time, this wine was called “Snosrap” (Parsons spelled backwards).  The label was a beautiful Mary Ellen Parsons quilt of Cyrano smelling a glass of wine.  A marketing expert suggested they simply call this red blend “Cyrano.”  Thus, the current naming of this wine. 

From Parsonage Wine: “Our versatile red table wine easily pairs with a variety of different foods. We think it goes especially well with pizza and spaghetti with red sauce.  This vintage is full bodied. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Syrah.  Rich, ripe and voluptous. The Cyrano is one of our best sellers.”

My Review: Slight brownish tint, inky and “Camembert” on the nose.  The palate is smooth with bold, intense fruit, with herbal notes. This vintage is particularly delicious.  Recommending snapping up some – great wine at a value price.   

Once we are on the other side of this fire emergency, you can obtain these wines directly from the winery:  They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off.  You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Thursdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page:  Parsonage Wine.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Have Mercy! Amazing Wines from the Arroyo Seco Ancient River Channel

We discovered Mercy Vineyards when they opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – they were the very first tasting room as you come into the village. We would often see the Mark Dirickson sitting out front with his lunch and a glass of white wine. All of their wines are from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Why? The dry, cobblestone (“Greenfield Potatoes”) riverbeds of granite and shale and the extreme climate of chilly winds and fog make it an ideal growing area for wine grapes.

The “Greenfield Potatoes” of the Ancient River Channel
photo from Mercy Wines website

From Mercy Wines: “Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.” (The vineyards are Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala.) 

The Arroyo Seco AVA Map – from Monterey Vintners and Growers

We were impressed from our first meeting with Mark and winemaker Mike Kohne, who were also running their nascent tasting room. They also were producing a dry Riesling, something not seen much around here. While most of their wines are Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, they had me at Syrah – my favorite Mercy wines. I featured their 2017 Riesling at my Spring 2019 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar (WWCS) class, and their 2016 Syrah in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS seminar.  I had planned to presenting their Sauvignon Blanc and the 2016 Syrah at my 2020 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar, which is on hold indefinitely. My DC friends got to consume those wines!  And I have to say we are really enjoying their Pinot Noirs – it took the pandemic for me to realize I might actually like Pinot Noir!

The truly sad news is that Mercy Vineyards is now closed.  Their website www.mercywines.com is still operational. We love these guys and are sorry to see them go.

Today I am presenting 7 of their wines – some tasted before I was writing my own tasting notes, some for which there is little-to-no published information.  6 of these were tasted during the Shelter in Place order. If you gotta stay home, drink good wine!

2017 Mercy Dry Riesling, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, ABV, $21

Aspiring to make a dry, old-world style Riesling, Mercy sourced Germanic clones from vines set in extremely rocky, low-yielding topsoil.

From Mercy Wines: “Fermented dry, with just the slightest touch of sweetness added back for texture, this “troken” style Riesling showcases aromas of orchard fruit as nectarine and pear notes mingle with honeysuckle, fennel, pollen and minerals in the bouquet.”

2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard, 13.8% ABV, $24          

I needed a good white to cook with in April and, since we bought this wine for half price, I didn’t feel too bad cooking with it – and even got to enjoy some with my meal. Just like many Mercy wines, this one is from the Zabala Vineyard – man, that place produces great fruit.  I’m going to have to lean on my friends to find out which other wineries buy from Zabala or get to know the grower. 

2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard

From Mercy Wines: “This Sauvignon Blanc is comprised exclusively of the low-yielding, Musque clone (FPS 27) from vines at the Zabala Vineyard. Set in the Arroyo Seco AVA’s ancient river channel the property’s locale features granitic topsoil arrayed on cobblestone beds. Such meager soil further diminishes yields and in concert with strong winds and dense fog combine to provide an environment ideal for compelling fruit.

“Hand-harvested in early September 2017, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were crushed into stainless steel for fermentation. Racked to small mueller, steel barrels the wine aged for 6 months until being bottled on April 26, 2018. Innately racy, the straw colored wine features a bouquet with exotic aromas of melon, pineapple and star fruit, as well as lemon blossom, fresh cut hay and mineral characters. Replete with acidity, this aromatic wine has, due to the clone, a nice weight while remaining bright and refreshing.”

2012 Mercy Pinot Noir Zabala Vineyard, 14.6% ABV, $38 94 Points, Wine Enthusiast

In the spirit of creating some isolation fun, Charlie decided we would taste this wine blind – he poured me a glass and made me guess what it was.  This was a big red with a spicy bouquet.  Zinfandel!  Nope.  Joullian Retro Rouge?  Nope.  He confirmed it was a Monterey wine.  Then he said that it is not one of my favorites – which jumped me to Pinot Noir! I guessed based on its heft that it must be the Parsonage Hawk Reserve Pinot Noir!  Wrong again – close, but no cigar. 

On one of our 3 trips to Mercy in February 2020, the tasting room was boasting it had found these 2012 Pinot Noirs from the Arroyo Seco AVA, tucked away at the winery.  They let us taste it and we bought a bunch. 

2012 Mercy Pinot Noir Zabala Vineyard

This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, once again a wine hailing from the fabulous Zabala Vineyard.  The label describes this wine as follows: “Wind blown, Zabala Vineyard bears the brunt of regional maritime elements.  This small-lot Pinot Noir hails from the “South Pointe”, a section of vineyard blocks nearest the seasonal creek.  From this rocky locale, Mercy sources “Dijon” clones 115 and 667, as well as a touch of Pommard clone.” 

From Mercy Wines: “A barrel selection of nine distinct barrels, this wine showcases the dense, juicy berry-nature of Pinot Noir grown on the Zabala ranch. Aromas of black berries and cherry mingle with notes baking spices, violets and earthy-mineral tones. Richly textured, firm tannins enhance the fruit flavors on the palate and melt away as part of the long finish.” 

If I could get my hands on more of this, I would.  We had this wine for Sunday night dinner with steak and a flavorful barley risotto.  It was a fabulous combo. It is making me re-think my views on Pinot Noir!

2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard, 14.4% ABV, $32 (Outbreak Wine #120)

About Cedar Lane Vineyard from Mercy Wines: “Located against and somewhat sheltered by a natural bench, a 40-foot palisade of bedrock along its northern border, this 60-acre vineyard is owned by Mark Chesebro and farmed by Michael Griva. Found at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains the sand as well as shale and granite cobblestone topsoil are meager with little nutrients, ultimately helping to diminish yields. The vineyard is planted to multiple varietals, including 7 different clones of Pinot Noir of which Mercy Vineyards sources two (“Pommard” clone 4 and clone 667).”

2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard

Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 89 points: “Concentrated lavender and incense aromas make for a woody perfume on the nose of this appellation blend, giving lots of character to the core of cherry syrup. The palate shows the same levels of intense incense and purple flowers, which nearly overpowers the cranberry and pomegranate fruits.” Matt Kettmann October 2017

My Review: Beautiful crystalized cork.  This wine has a dark robe, slightly brownish.  Musty, blackberry with cedar notes on the nose.  A palate of blackberry, cherry and a little leather, giving a slightly bitter finish – perhaps a little raisin.  This is a very rich and full-bodied Pinot Noir.  I do like my wines made from Cedar Lane grapes!  August 2020

2009 Mercy Syrah, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.9% ABV, $28 (Outbreak Wine #121)

My Review:  We tasted this wine last after a series of big wines – I did not capture good tasting notes. Very dark in color, this wine has lost some of its fruit and beyond its prime.  Nevertheless, it was a terrific wine. 

2012 Mercy Syrah, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.1% ABV, $28

According to their website, “Mercy sources three clones from the Zabala family (clone 7 an Aussie Shiraz clone, and two French ENTAV clones 470 and 877). All get co-fermented in small open top bins and ultimately the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (11% new) prior to bottling.”

2012 Mercy Syrah Zabala Vineyard

Wine Enthusiast gave it 93 points with this review: “Ripe and plump blackberries shine through in a showcase of fruit purity, lifted by dried fennel, hot black gravel, peppercorns, toasted sesame and soy. There is tremendous structure and acidity on the sip, with black pepper and black-sesame nuance plus juicy boysenberry character to the midpalate.”

My Review:  Almost 4 years later, this wine is drinking beautifully – blackberry and mocha with a touch of spice, full and smooth on the palate. Yum. Tasted March 2020

Mercy 2016 Riverbed Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.5% ABV, $30

I presented this wine at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class as a compare and contrast of wines from the same 2016 vintage, different AVAs, to show how the Soberanes Fire affected wines from Carmel Valley but not from the other Monterey County AVAs.  

Regarding the 2016 Riverbed Syrah from Mercy Wines: “The progeny of grapevines located in the ancient, dried riverbed corridor of the Arroyo Seco AVA. This wine combines fruit from vines set in meager, nutrient-deficient topsoil which feature cobblestone beds of granite and shale. In addition to the distinct and finite terrain, the riverbed channel location is also is noted for its extreme climate as forceful winds and dense fog persist throughout the growing season. All these factors combine to create a distinct environment that is suited for Rhone varieties.

2016 Mercy Syrah Riverbed – the Last Release and a Great One

“Harvest in late October the grapes were transported to the winery in the early morning. At the winery the fruit was crushed with the ‘must’ racked to small bins for fermentation. Once dry, the wine was pressed off and transferred to neutral (1 and 2 year old) French oak barrels. Ultimately, it was aged 20 months before being bottled. The resulting wine shows aromas of juicy late-summer plum, cherry, lavender, sagebrush and holiday spices.” 

My Review: Raspberry, blackberry and cassis on the nose.  An explosion of berry and cassis on the palate, and a lingering finish.  Smooth and delicious.  May 2020

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Chesebro: “artisan wines, lovingly farmed and made by hand”

We are going to venture out of Carmel Valley AVA and into another one of my favorites, Arroyo Seco AVA.  Back in 2019, we took a family drive down 101 to Greenfield and back up through the valley just so I could see first hand the “Greenfield potatoes” – the big rocks in the vineyard soil – of the Arroyo Seco AVA.  We know how to have a good time!

The Monterey County Vintners and Growers  says this about the Arroyo Seco AVA: “First planted in 1962, this AVA extends from a steep canyon at its westernmost border, opening to encompass the benches around the Salinas River near the towns of Soledad and Greenfield. Bordeaux grape varieties prosper in the mouth of the canyon, which is protected from wind and warmed by reflective heat generated the surrounding cliffs. The valley floor is much cooler, providing ideal climactic conditions for the Burgundian varietals. Integral to this area’s soils are the “Greenfield Potatoes” – small cobblestones which store and release heat and provide excellent drainage.”

When the White Oak shopping center in Carmel Valley became a row of tasting rooms, we discovered Chesebro wines.  We were intrigued by the delicious, white varietals we weren’t so familiar with (Albariño, Vermentino), and impressed by the red blends.  Quality, artisan wines at affordable prices. 

I immediately became a fan of the Chesebro Syrah-driven Rhône blend, La Montagne Sauvage, which I presented several years ago at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar.  We became fans of the tasting room staff and visited often when in town.  Chesebro has been very helpful to me over the years in my wine education efforts. 

From www.chesebrowines.com: “Mark took a crush job at Bernardus Winery under Don Blackburn in the fall of 1994, and ended up staying until the spring of 2005. First working in the cellar, then as Enologist, he eventually became Winemaker in January of 1999. He basically held every production job available at this 50,000 case winery. Mark notes that this was truly his real winemaking education: it taught him not only about winemaking, but also about the extreme importance and impact of farming. He candidly observes that wine is very easy to botch up in the winery, but it can never be better than the raw materials. Respect for this concept became the guiding force in his approach to the production of fine wine.”

Chesebro Wine Lineup from Their Facebook Page.

“With lots of 300 cases or less, and a penchant for offbeat, as well as mainstream varietals, Chesebro’s production may be small, but the effort is prolific. We are passionate about true varietal expression, as well as preserving the unique voice of each vineyard site, from soil to glass. All of our wines are made solely from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVA’s.” They own Cedar Lane vineyard in Arroyo Seco, which has supplied grapes to other wineries, including Mercy and Parsonage. 

Chesebro 2012 Las Arenas, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.4% ABV, $25

According to the bottle, “Las Arenas refers to the sandy soils of Cedar Lane Vineyard.  This Rhone style blend of 67% Grenache and 33% Syrah, resulting in a wine that combines intense aromatics with smooth texture and bright acidity.”  Wine Enthusiast rated the Chesebro 2013 Las Arenas 90 points and the 2011 La Montagne Sauvage (another favorite of mine), 93 points.

The Chesebro Las Arenas is one of my favorite Arroyo Seco wines.

My Review: Blackberry on the nose, followed by plum and cherry with bright acidity on the palate.  This wine alternates for me between a smooth finish and a more tannic, woody, leather finish.  I presented the 2013 vintage at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar Spring 2019, which everyone loved.  The 2015 was well received at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS meeting.  Recommend decanting.  May 2020

Buying Chesebro Wines: From the Chesebro Wines Facebook page: “Although we are not currently open for tastings, Chesebro wines remains at your disposal for all your Summer sipping wine needs. Contact us directly (831) 238-2618 or email info@chesebrowines.com to place an order for curbside pickup or free local delivery.”

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Parsonage Reserve Wines – My Kind of Big Reds!

Reviews of Parsonage Estate Reserve 2016 Rocco Syrah, 2016 Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2017 Hawk Pinot Noir

I’m going to take us north from Cachagua to talk about a few wineries we “discovered” with vineyards just south of Carmel Valley Village. I’ll come back to Cachagua in a few posts.

We discovered Parsonage during one of our wine tasting outings to Carmel Valley many years ago.  During that time, it seemed every time we came to the valley, there were new wineries and tasting rooms popping up.  We were at Joullian Vineyards and asked where else we should taste.  The tasting room manager made a call to Parsonage’s winemaker, Frank Melicia, who wanted to ensure we were serious wine buyers before he’d let us come up to the winery.  And thusly began a beautiful relationship! 

Bill and Mary Parsons planted the seven-acre Parsonage Village Vineyard in June 1998, with their first harvest in 2000. According to Parsonage, the vineyard is planted to 3 ½ acres of Syrah, 2 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Merlot and 1/2 acre of Petit Verdot. Starting at a meager 200 cases back in 2000, annual production today is in the 1500-2000 case range. The Parsons were the first to plant Syrah in Carmel Valley and their wines are the reason I am now a big Syrah fan. 

Parsonage has made five estate reserve wines:  Bixby (Petit Verdot), Dario (Merlot), Hawk (Pinot Noir), Rocco (Syrah), Tanner (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Xandro (Red Blend).  Their reserve wines are named for Bill and Mary’s grandchildren. Mary’s exquisite quilts are featured on the labels and in the tasting room (you can view them on their website). 

Two of these reviews are of 2016 wines. In the summer of 2016, the Soberanes Fire burned for months south of Carmel Valley. The smoke from that fire affected the grapes in the Carmel Valley AVA.  I’ll do a longer piece on the Soberanes Fire in a future blog, as its impact was significant. 

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Rocco Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Rocco Syrah

Parsonage says this about the 2016 Rocco:  “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit.  The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant. 

My Review: We detected a little tar on the nose with ham hock and charcoal on the palate “in a good way – like S’Mores”.  This wine has a lot of fruit – it’s like you are sitting around a campfire with a mouthful of sweetness and tart.  The wine seems to work with the smokiness, making it part of its richness, not an offensive aftertaste.  In July 2020, we decanted this wine and enjoyed it even more – much smoother and even less ham hock.  As my husband says, a Rocco Syrah, even from the Soberanes Fire year, is still one of the most delicious Carmel Valley wines.  June/July 2020

I presented this wine at my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS as a compare and contrast of a Carmel Valley 2016 wine with one from another Monterey County AVA.  I didn’t tell them about the smoke and I asked them what they tasted different in this wine.  There were many guesses before the owner of Pearmund Winery guessed smoke. 

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80

2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon

According to Parsonage: “This Cabernet Sauvignon is a burly beast of a wine and the fastest selling vintage we’ve ever made. When folks try it, they buy it. The nose is full of dark fruit with hints of barrel toast. The palate is full of blackberry, black cherry, and tobacco leaf.  Nicely integrated tannins and a long finish. We aren’t fancy and like to pair it with a burger.” 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

My Review: Glass-coating rich, this wine had a little sulphur and green olive on the nose, followed by umami flavors of pepperoni dipped in a good marinade.  Very robust and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon.  Little to no detection of smoke taint, despite the 2016 vintage. June 2020

2017 Parsonage Estate Reserve Hawk Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $60

2017 Parsonage Estate Reserve Hawk Pinot Noir – Photo courtesy of Parsonage

From Parsonage: “A magnificent expression of the varietal character of Pinot Noir California style. All of the beautiful floral spice found in its elegant sibling (the Estate Pinot) but with black cherry and black raspberry and Darjeeling muscatel notes in a bigger, richer, fuller version with an extra dollop of yum. The Hawk is truly high viscosity Pinot on steroids.” Aged in new oak for ~12 months.

My Review: Very berry on the nose. More structure than the Estate Pinot Noir, yet smoother. Intense berry, black tea and a bit of tobacco on the palate. The Hawk is a delicious Pinot Noir enjoyed and highly regarded even by my Burgundy fanatic relatives. June 2020

You can obtain their wines directly from the winery:  They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off. 

You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village Thursdays through Monday, 12-5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page here

Verified by MonsterInsights