Reviews of Parsonage Estate Reserve 2016 Rocco Syrah, 2016 Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2017 Hawk Pinot Noir
I’m going to take us north from Cachagua to talk about a few wineries we “discovered” with vineyards just south of Carmel Valley Village. I’ll come back to Cachagua in a few posts.
We discovered Parsonage during one of our wine tasting outings to Carmel Valley many years ago. During that time, it seemed every time we came to the valley, there were new wineries and tasting rooms popping up. We were at Joullian Vineyards and asked where else we should taste. The tasting room manager made a call to Parsonage’s winemaker, Frank Melicia, who wanted to ensure we were serious wine buyers before he’d let us come up to the winery. And thusly began a beautiful relationship!
Bill and Mary Parsons planted the seven-acre Parsonage Village Vineyard in June 1998, with their first harvest in 2000. According to Parsonage, the vineyard is planted to 3 ½ acres of Syrah, 2 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Merlot and 1/2 acre of Petit Verdot. Starting at a meager 200 cases back in 2000, annual production today is in the 1500-2000 case range. The Parsons were the first to plant Syrah in Carmel Valley and their wines are the reason I am now a big Syrah fan.
Parsonage has made five estate reserve wines: Bixby (Petit Verdot), Dario (Merlot), Hawk (Pinot Noir), Rocco (Syrah), Tanner (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Xandro (Red Blend). Their reserve wines are named for Bill and Mary’s grandchildren. Mary’s exquisite quilts are featured on the labels and in the tasting room (you can view them on their website).
Two of these reviews are of 2016 wines. In the summer of 2016, the Soberanes Fire burned for months south of Carmel Valley. The smoke from that fire affected the grapes in the Carmel Valley AVA. I’ll do a longer piece on the Soberanes Fire in a future blog, as its impact was significant.
2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Rocco Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80
Parsonage says this about the 2016 Rocco: “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit. The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant.
My Review: We detected a little tar on the nose with ham hock and charcoal on the palate “in a good way – like S’Mores”. This wine has a lot of fruit – it’s like you are sitting around a campfire with a mouthful of sweetness and tart. The wine seems to work with the smokiness, making it part of its richness, not an offensive aftertaste. In July 2020, we decanted this wine and enjoyed it even more – much smoother and even less ham hock. As my husband says, a Rocco Syrah, even from the Soberanes Fire year, is still one of the most delicious Carmel Valley wines. June/July 2020
I presented this wine at my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS as a compare and contrast of a Carmel Valley 2016 wine with one from another Monterey County AVA. I didn’t tell them about the smoke and I asked them what they tasted different in this wine. There were many guesses before the owner of Pearmund Winery guessed smoke.
2016 Parsonage Estate Reserve Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $80
According to Parsonage: “This Cabernet Sauvignon is a burly beast of a wine and the fastest selling vintage we’ve ever made. When folks try it, they buy it. The nose is full of dark fruit with hints of barrel toast. The palate is full of blackberry, black cherry, and tobacco leaf. Nicely integrated tannins and a long finish. We aren’t fancy and like to pair it with a burger.” 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
My Review: Glass-coating rich, this wine had a little sulphur and green olive on the nose, followed by umami flavors of pepperoni dipped in a good marinade. Very robust and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon. Little to no detection of smoke taint, despite the 2016 vintage. June 2020
2017 Parsonage Estate Reserve Hawk Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $60
From Parsonage: “A magnificent expression of the varietal character of Pinot Noir California style. All of the beautiful floral spice found in its elegant sibling (the Estate Pinot) but with black cherry and black raspberry and Darjeeling muscatel notes in a bigger, richer, fuller version with an extra dollop of yum. The Hawk is truly high viscosity Pinot on steroids.” Aged in new oak for ~12 months.
My Review: Very berry on the nose. More structure than the Estate Pinot Noir, yet smoother. Intense berry, black tea and a bit of tobacco on the palate. The Hawk is a delicious Pinot Noir enjoyed and highly regarded even by my Burgundy fanatic relatives. June 2020
You can obtain their wines directly from the winery: They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off.
Photo courtesy of Parsonage
You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village Thursdays through Monday, 12-5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page here.
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