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This week I am continuing our wine adventures in Croatia from my recent trip with Expanding Horizons and Idle Hour Winery & Kitchen. Please read last week’s post for more about our trip and for the wines we tasted during our first week. I’ve heavily relied on a website called Wine and More, which is an excellent resource on Croatian wines, their unique varietals, and even planning your trip! Plus, I’ve put information on how to locate and purchase Croatian wines at the end of this post, so keep reading!
Today’s post is about the wines we tasted during our second week, after we got on our private yacht – tasted either on the boat itself or on land at wineries or restaurants. From Split, we went island hopping to Hvar, Vis, and Korčula, and finally back to the mainland to Slano, ending up in Dubrovnik. Next week, I’ll bring you the Idle Hour wines we tasted throughout our adventure.
Once we boarded the Aurelia, our luxurious Katerina Lines yacht, our Croatian wine experiences this included wines available on the yacht, a winery tour on land, various dinners on land, and a Croatian wine tasting on board hosted by our Idle Hour host, Anna Marie Dos Remedios.
As I mentioned last week, some of the standout Croatian varietals included the white grapes of Malvazija Istarka and Graševina (at times thought to be Riesling) and the red grapes of Teran and Plavac Mali. The delicious red grape Plavac Mali (“little blue”} was long considered to be related to Zinfandel, but in fact, Kastelanski Crljenak, and Tribidrag are the true DNA relatives of California Zinfandel. You can read more on this controversy HERE.
My Disclaimer: I’m no expert in Croatian wines, so I’m bound to get lots of facts wrong as I try to talk about our experiences and the wines.
WINE ADVENTURES IN CROATIA BY SEA – THE WINES
HVAR
Zlatan Otok: According to Vinum USA: “In 1991 Zlatan Otok winery became the second private winery in Croatia after the country declared its independence. Established by Zlatan Plenković in a picturesque fishing village called Sveta Nedjelja on the Island of Hvar, today Zlatan Otok one of the largest private wineries in Croatia.”
2019 Zlatan Plavac, ZOI Cental and South Dalmatia, 14% ABV, $28 US (#1382)
Winery Notes: “This is wine of dark ruby colour, nice smell and powerful taste that lasts. Wine of rich, layered aromas with notes of Dalmatian herbs, spices and dark fruits like blueberries and plums. It is complex, full-body wine with beautiful accented tannins, well-balanced freshness and alcohol. Wine of exceptional presence on the palate that leaves no one indifferent.”
My Review: We purchased this wine on the boat for enjoyment several evenings in a row. I can’t believe we didn’t take notes! We recall it being ok.
VIS
Lipanovic Winery: On the island and town of Vis, we walked up a hill to the Lipanović winery housed in the former Yugoslav military tunnels which housed generators to fuel a secret base. There we tasted the Croatian grapes of Vugava and Plavac Mali grown on the island. I’ve linked the winery notes in the wine name, but they appear to be for different vintages than what we tasted. Still worth reading!
Winery Notes (2021): “The Vis Opol is a Dalmatian wine with rosy cheeks and a cult status. It is made from the ubiquitous plavac mali grapes. The strong fruity taste and aroma make it the best choice for opening dinners to remember. On hot summer days it glides down your throat like divine nectar so you can (and will!) sip it from brunch to bed. But don’t be fooled by its beautiful pink color as this is not a rosé wine: The Vis Opol is made by extremely short maceration, only five or six hours long!”
My Review: Despite the relatively short maceration of 4-6 hrs, it is still rather dark for a rose. Refreshing summer wine. Grapes and slight cherry notes on the nose. It tastes more alcohol than it is, a bit like a sherry. June 2024
Winery Notes (2021): “For thousands of years, Vugava Viška, the queen of wine, has thrived surrounded by the sea and sun-kissed by the Mediterranean sun, a labor of love on an island far from the Croatian mainland. It is characterized by a wonderful natural golden yellow color. Its scent is specific, varied, unobtrusive, pleasant, deep and full. This is a beautifully aged wine with fruity aromas of vineyard peaches, intermingled with the aromas of almonds and oranges, and featuring light notes of rowan, candied orange peel and roasted almonds.”
My Review: A special white wine reminiscent of a Viognier. Pears and apples on the nose. Alcohol is visible on the palate. A dry wine, with some sweetness to it. Could use a touch of acidity. June 2024
Winery Notes: “There are a lot of plavac wines, but you won’t find one like this anywhere. Only the plavac mali from Vis is immersed in the sandy soil with deep horizons, which enriches the grapes with the moisture from below in periods when not a drop of rain falls on the island. It is characterized by a deep ruby color, irresistibly pleasant pungency, flaming aromas of overripe dark fruit and an incredibly long finish in the mouth. Did we mention that its strength never falls below 15.1%? No wonder, for only the strong survive on an island!”
My Review: Grown in sandy soil, this wine has a deep ruby color. Olives and spice with cherry notes and a hint of sulfur. Dry and full bodied, with pepper and earthy notes. Fruity up front and smooth. Very dry on the finish. June 2024
Lunch on the boat was always an opportunity to try some more Croatian wines!
Dvanajščak-Kozol Pinot Crni (Pinot Noir), Okrugli VRH Medimurje (#1386)
My Review: Dried cherry on the nose. Quite tart at first sip, with a little zip to it. Earthy dark plum flavors and more pronounced oak than we might typically see in a US Pinot Noir. June 2024
2018 Dom Kalebić Fameja, Otok Solta, Dalmatian Coast (#1387) Plavac Mali, Tribidrag, Dobričić
My Review: A blend of Zinfandel-related Wines. Dark in the glass. Raisiny on the nose, with stewed prunes and espresso notes. Tasty, with bitter dark chocolate, black ground pepper and mint flavors on the palate. Very smooth, with a dry finish – a Sharon kind of wine. June 2024
MLJET
On the island of Mljet, we took the crew’s recommendation to eat at the highly rated Konoba Galija. The upstairs location added an elegance, along with amazing sunset views. We chose one red and one white to accompany our diverse meal.
Matuško Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 12.5% ABV, $20 (#1388)
My Notes: Dusty, chocolate milk on the nose with light plum flavors. Lower alcohol. June 2024
My Notes:Honey, lemon and minerality on the nose. Full of flavor on the palate with a salt water twist at the end. June 2024
CROATIAN WINE TASTING ON THE BOAT:One evening, our host, Anna Marie, did an excellent tasting for us of four Croatian wines which she had selected and brought on the boat:
2022 Vinerija Dingač Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 12.5% ABV, $20/$35 US (#1390)
Potomac Wines: “This is the most traditional wine among our offerings from the famed Dingač vineyard on the steep coast in Southern Dalmatia. No barrique (oak) was used, only the best Plavac Mali fruit fermented and matured in large barrels. The winery stopped using donkeys to haul the harvested grapes some time ago. They advanced from workers in the field to mascots on the label.”
My Notes: Arriving late from dinner, we almost missed this wine in the Croatian wine tasting. Anyway, I enjoy a good Plavac Mali! June 2024
About Kastel Sikuli: “Kastel Sikuli is a family boutique winery that has been producing wine since 2019., ie the 2018 harvest. The winery owns a vineyard in Kaštel Novi on 13.000 square meters and two smaller vineyards in dalmatian inland with 3000 vines…”
Winery Notes (not vintage-specific): “Completely ruby color. At the beginning, the aroma is dominated by spices, pepper, vanilla, prunes, later aromas of red berries, mostly blueberries, develop. In the taste of prunes and berries, dried figs in the aftertaste. The tannins are velvety, the finish is dry, medium to long. The freshness is nicely expressed. Serious wine, which will show itself in full glory with the passage of time, the potential for aging for at least 3 to 5 years.”
My Notes: This tasted the closest to an American Zinfandel of all the Croatian wines we have tasted. I liked this wine – perhaps my favorite of the entire journey. June 2024
2019 Grgić Plavac Mali, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 15.5% ABV, $49 (#1392)
Winery Notes (about the 2016 Vintage): “The grapes of this wine have been selected from the best wineyards in the well-known locations of Dingac and Postup on the Pelješac peninsula. The wine has been produced according to the methods of Miljenko Grgić and under his supervision. He is known in California and in the world as one of the best producer of Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The fermentation of the grapes has been done with naturals yeast but at a controlled temperature which help to keep much of the wine’s variety character and fruitness. After the fermentation the wine has been aging for 15 months in special oak barrels imported from France. The wine received a pleasant oak aroma from the barrels. The process has continued for two years in 0,75L bottles, where the aromas married and harmonized and flavor softened….It is with gentle tannins and pleasant blackberry and Dalmatian flowers aromas.
My Notes: Upon opening, this was a big, rough and alcoholic raisiny wine. It readily opened up, releasing dark, jammy fruit with spearmint on the finish. For many participants, this was their favorite wine of the tasting. June 2024
2021 Rizman Tribidrag, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 13.5% ABV, $26 (#1393) 85% Tribidrag (Zinfandel) and 15% Tempranillo – a unique combo!
Winery Notes: “Forward and expressive showing an abundance of ripe dark brambly fruits, raisins and prunes as well as dried herbs and sweet spices. On the palate it is well structured, displays ripe and juicy fruit underpinned by balancing freshness, followed by lovely complexity.”
My Notes: Super dark in the glass. Licorice on the nose. Grilled peppers and fresh tobacco on the palate. Dark and smokey. We liked this wine. June 2024
About Graševina: I encourage you to click the link to learn more about Graševina, as it is the most planted grape in Croatia and was long considered to be related to Riesling, but turns out to be yet another uniquely Croatian grape!
My Notes:This was our introduction to the Grasevina grape – nice full bodied white grass on the nose. Lots of citrus orange and lemon with tons of minerality. June 2024
Tomić Petar Hektorović Dessert Wine, Hvar, ZOI Central and South Dalmatia, 15.5% ABV, $29 (#1395)
Winery Notes: “Tomić Prošek Hectorovich U.V. on Vivino Prošek is an authentic Croatian dessert wine, made using dried grapes of the finest indigenous Dalmatian varieties. Prošek is a natural sweet wine that originated in the coast…” Made in the same style as a Vin Santo.
My Notes: Curry and caramel on the nose, carrying over to the palate. Very interesting. Better than any other dessert wine or firewater we had on this trip. June 2024
Winery Notes: “High quality graševina is the brand of the Kutjevo winery. Grape selection comes from the best apellations of the Kutjevo wine region – Hrnjevac, Vetovo and Vinkomir. Fresh, harmonious and citrus-flavored aromas with hints of green apples and a powerful minerality, long aftertaste that opens the notes of chamomile are charachteristic to this wine.”
My Notes: This was a good quality Graševina which presented more acidic with good minerality. We enjoyed this chilled wine on a hot evening before our last dinner. June 2024
WHERE TO BUY CROATIAN WINES
We had plenty of opportunities to taste Croatian liquors and brandies.
FROM CROATIA DIRECTLY:
A couple of major foreign shops which might export these wines for a fee (might be as much as $20/bottle to get them through customs!!):
Croatia Revealed. If you want to order Tomaz (or other wines), the process is to send Croatia Revealed an email at info@croatiarevealed.com with a list of the wines you want to order. T.hey charge about $20/bottle to ship to the US and get through customs.
When we were first approached by Anna Marie Dos Remedios, co-owner and winemaker at Idle Hour Winery & Kitchen, about going on some wine adventures in Croatia, I got pretty excited. We had a marvelous experience with Expanding Horizons once before and Croatia has looked so beautiful from the pictures of many friends. Plus, fun fact: I studied Serbo-Croatian literature in college! So I am stepping away from California’s Central Coast for the next 2 weeks to talk about another country’s coastal wines!
I didn’t know much about Croatian wines, but we were so pleasantly surprised by the quality and diversity of the exceptional wine experiences we encountered during our two-week trip. We spent one week traveling by bus to the Plešivica wine region, the Plitvice Lakes National Park, and the Istrian Peninsula before making our way down the coast to Zadar and Split. From there, we boarded the Aurelia, our private Katerina Linesyacht, island hopping to Hvar, Vis, Korčula, back to the mainland at Slano, and finally ending up in Dubrovnik.
Although we got to know Croatian wines during our trip, but we got to know them them fairly well during our visit. I’m bound to get lots of facts wrong as I try to talk about our experiences and the wines. My reviews have at times been colorfully supplemented by our traveling partners, whom I have named the Decanting-Monterey-in-Croatia Wine Pod. 😊
Some of the standout varietals included the white grapes of Malvazija Istarka and Graševina, and the red grapes of Teran and Plavac Mali. The delicious red grape Plavac Mali (“little blue”) was long considered to be related to Zinfandel, but in fact, Kastelanski Crljenak, and Tribidrag are the true DNA relatives of California Zinfandel. You can read more on this controversy HERE.
Sadly, we learned that many Croatian wines are not exported to the US and it seems the wineries do not directly ship here. Thank you, COVID. There are a couple of overseas websites where you can order directly, but they will have to add on about $20/bottle for shipping and US customs! But, if you hunt hard enough (I did!), you will find several US wine shops that carry and ship Croatian wines, thus saving you some of the added cost. Be sure to read next week’s post whereI’ll tell you all about it!
I’ll be breaking this experience into 3 posts: Wines we consumed while on the mainland, ones we tasted after we got on the yacht, and the Idle Hour wines from California we tasted throughout our adventure. I will include links to the wineries where I can find them. To save space, I’ll try to provide links where you can find the winery descriptions of their wines. ZOI is the abbreviation for Zaštićena oznaka izvornoti (Protected mark originality – the wine region it is from). I found this informative map of the major Croatian wine regions on Wine Folly:
Here we go!
WINE ADVENTURES IN CROATIA – BY LAND
ZAGREB
Our friends who joined us on this trip had traveled far and wide to end up in Zagreb the Le Premier Hotel. Since none of us live close to each other, we decided to meet up in the hotel bar for a kick-off celebration before dinner.
My Review: Inky in the glass. Crushed berries on the nose. Dark flavors on the palate with prune and stem notes. Smooth tannins on the finish. A very dark wine. May 2024
2019 Matuško Dingač, ZOI Peljesac Peninsula, Central and South Dalmatia, 14.5% ABV $21 (#1363)
2019 Matuško Dingač
My Review: Berries including strawberry on the nose. This wine elicited a “wow” from our table. Tons of heavy dark fruit, vanilla and maple on the finish. Has some dessert wine qualities – in a good way. Tastes high alcohol. May 2024
My Review: Pale in the glass. Lychee on the nose. A touch of sweetness and vaguely citrusy on the palate. Not cloying and presented slightly fizzy. Could be more acidic and colder. May 2024
KORAK FAMILY ESTATE
Our first winery visit was Korak Family Estate, outside of Zagreb along the Pleševice Wine Road. They make elegant Burgundian varietals which can be sampled along with a Michelin Star lunch! That was such a great start to our trip. The setting was lovely and the small winery produced delicious wines. I would highly recommend this experience if you are near Zagreb. You can find winery notes for these wines here.
My Review: Fine bubbles crisp and delicious. Graphite, mineral, not a lot of distinctive flavor. Served with sourdough bread, sourdough bread chips, fresh cheese, butter and cured meat. May 2024
My Review: Pale golden. A slightly sweet nose of pear and honeysuckle. Surprisingly acidic. Made in a style to be very fresh. As it warmed up, lemon curd. The wine was nicely paired with a green bean/prosciutto dish with a bitter orange cream sauce. May 2024
My Review: Golden and viscous in the glass. Candied pineapple, melon, pear, and oak on the fresh nose. Lemon-infused butterscotch. Sweet pineapple and pop rocks on the palate with a long finish. A lot going on. Very tasty. Our favorite so far. Served with black tortellini filled with fresh ricotta with sliced dried garlic and peppered with truffles. May 2024
My Review: Light cherry and rose petal with a hint of cinnamon, vanilla and clove on the nose. A palate of light cherry and red berries with a peppery/cinnamon dry finish accompanied by soft tannins. Accompanied by smoked and roasted squab breast with horseradish and spices plum and onion chutney. May 2024
My Review: Pale in the glass. Wet grass on the nose. Freshly mowed grass on the palate. Spritzy on the palate. Close to a Prosecco. May 2024
2023 Stina Pošip, ZOI Central & South Dalmatia, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#1373)
My Review: The label on this wine is like white on white stone. The only notes I took were that it has a lemony finish. May 2024
2023 Terdzo Malvazija Istarka (#1374)
My Review: Yellow in color. Smells like a Viognier. Slightly sweet in aroma and on the palate with lemon notes. Viscous in the glass and on the tongue. Reminded us of a Rhône wine. May 2024
My Review: Oak and vanilla on the nose. Dark fruit including plum and violet. Made on island Krk. I loved this wine. Very young for us to be drinking. The sommelier said lots of tannin, but I think it is drinking fine. May 2024
Our second winery visit was at the Tomaz winery, at the base of the hilltop village of Motovun.
About Tomaz: “FRAMELESS WINES: On heavy, loamy, and marly soils in the unique climate of the Mirna river, the Tomaz family cultivates vines in harmony. Motovun, well-known for its truffles and Motovun forest, is the birthplace of these unique works of art, the frameless wines.”
We tasted only the Croatian varietals of Malvazija and Teran, which they grow on their estate. They also purchase grapes from others to make other wines. You can find winery notes on their website and on Croatia Reveled – Tomaz. If you want to order Tomaz (or other wines) through Croatia Revealed, the process is to send them an email at info@croatiarevealed.com. As mentioned above, it costs about $20/bottle to process through shipping and US Customs!!
My Review: Almost a pale orange in the glass. Faint orange on the nose like a sweet orange hard candy. A tiny bit of effervescence on the tongue. Sweet on the palate with a lemony pop finish. Food pairings smooth out the tartness. May 2024
My Review: Light yellow in the glass. Orange blossom and minerality on the nose. Yu can taste the influence of the Adriatic carried by a light wind and the Istrian mountain air mixing with the grapes to create a sensuous swirl on the palate. It is in and of its place. Some residual sugars. A little bit of a sherry taste to it. Would pair well with fish. May 2024
2020 Tomaz Sesto Senso Malvazija Istarka, ZOI Hrvatska Istra, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#1378)
My Review: 6 months in French oak and 6 months in Istrian oak. Yellow in color. Bananas and a little grilled pineapple on the nose. Sour dates and honey on the viscous palate. Very flavorful. May 2024
My Review: 12 months in French oak. Beautiful in the glass – purple. Velvet. Perfume, Moroccan spices, black plum and jammy berries and alcohol on the nose. the initial jammy berries (Goji berries) are sandpapered away by the hidden tannins, finishing with a ton of cinnamon. Needs more time in the bottle. May 2024
My Review: Diluted honey and elderflower on the nose. For a semisweet wine, this one is not cloying at all. It has enough acid to make it appear dry amongst the sweetness. May 2024
SPLIT
Our last night on land was in the beautiful city of Split, where we stayed in the Jupiter Luxury Hotel inside Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO Heritage Site. If that wasn’t special enough, we stumbled into a perfect little restaurant only steps from the hotel, where we became fond of the grape Plavac Mali.
2019 Volarević Syrtis Plavac Mali, ZOI Central & South Dalmatia, 15.5% ABV, $15/$35 US (#1381)
My Review: Rich garnet in color. Cherry licorice and vanilla on the nose. Dark cherry, cedar, and a burst of bright jam on the tannic finish. They say if you like California Zinfandel, Croatian Plavac Mali will ring your chimes. We really liked this wine. May 2024
I’ve actually found this wine available for sale in the US and am inquiring if we can get it shipped to California. More next week!
*Be sure to read next week’s post with more wine adventures in Croatia – and where to find them from the US!*
In March, we had a spur-of-the-moment dinner at The Beach House restaurant in Pacific Grove. With the Local’s Menu in hand, we sprung for a bottle of wine – and Eberle caught my husband’s eye. Decades ago, when we used to get to Paso Robles for wine tasting more regularly, we visited Eberle Winery. The wines are good and they have cool wine caves to tour as part of the tasting experience. This bottle of wine was a great one to enjoy – along with the fabulous coastline view from our table!
This is the first time I’ve presented an Eberle wine to you.
There is a terrific writeup on the winery website about Gary Eberle’s journey to founding Eberly Winery, and how he and winemaker Chris Eberle (no relation!) both found their way to the Central Coast and ended up working together. I highly recommend reading the whole thing.
Here’s a little teaser:
“Winery owner Gary Eberle grew up in Pennsylvania. Winemaker Chris Eberle, who is not related to Gary, grew up in (then) rural San Luis Obispo, California. It could be fate that they ended up working together, but Chris believes it has more to do with the love of the Central Coast and the quality of the grapes grown here…”
And a little more:
“…After tasting first and second growth Bordeaux from his professor’s cellar, (Gary) Eberle quickly took a keen interest in Cabernet Sauvignon. It was then he began envisioning the creation of an American wine that would rival Bordeaux’s. He soon found himself on his way to California where he enrolled in the Enology Doctorate Program at the University of California Davis.
“Eberle Winery was not Gary Eberle’s first wine venture when he arrived in Paso Robles, California. After finishing his coursework for a Ph.D. in Enology and Viticulture at U.C. Davis, Eberle moved to Paso Robles and began his career by co-founding the Estrella River Winery in 1973. After several successful years as the winemaker, Eberle refocused his attention and desire to produce premium, small production wine. Moving only a few miles down the highway Eberle soon started his own prestigious label which debuted officially with the release of Eberle’s flagship wine, the 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Since then, he has earned recognition for many firsts in the wine industry including; co-founding the Paso Robles Appellation in 1983, being the first to list the Paso Robles Appellation on his label, and being the first to produce a 100% commercially produced Syrah. Gary has also earned several awards including: The Robert Mondavi Hospitality Award, the California State Fair Lifetime Achievement Award, Wine Industry Person of the Year from the PRWCA, and (his most current award), the 2020 American Legend Wine Star Award from the Wine Enthusiast.
THE EBERLE WINEMAKER – CHRIS EBERLE
Chris graduated from Cal Poly in 2005 with a degree in agricultural business with a focus on marketing, as well as a minor in viticulture. Concurrently, he earned a diploma in enology from Washington State University. So why not put those talents to use close to home? Chris accepted a position at Eberle Winery as assistant winemaker in 2006. But by 2009 his wanderlust enticed him away from the Central Coast to look for opportunities in other winemaking regions…many of them. For fifteen vintages, Chris spent time expanding his winemaking knowledge in South Africa, Germany, New Zealand, Australia and France…
“That knowledge base would come in handy. In 2015 Gary Eberle, in his search for a new winemaker, contacted Chris in Australia and offered him the head winemaking job in Paso Robles. Chris and Tessa were back in Paso within three weeks. “From the vineyards to the caves to Gary & Marcy and the crew, it was like coming home. I always knew I’d be back,” enthused Chris.
“These days, Chris says his greatest challenge as a winemaker is the seasonal variation of the local climate. Normal rainfall one year, dry the next; heat spikes during ripening, then sudden temperature drops right before harvest. But he agrees it’s that variability that makes Paso such a unique and alluring wine growing region: the gratification is in the challenge…
THE CAVES
“One of the most unique aspects of Eberle Winery are the underground caves. In 1996, Eberle Winery unveiled 8,000 square feet of underground caves, fulfilling the need for more storage space while providing an ideal naturally cool and relatively high humidity climate for the wine barrels. The clear success of the initial caves inspired the decision to dig even further. By the end of 1999 the caves were extended, completing a grand total of 16,800 square feet of winding tunnels beneath the winery. The distance from the surface to the caves below is an average of 30 feet with 12-inch thick reinforced concrete walls which helps maintain a natural average temperature of 60 degrees year around. The caves are home to our VIP tasting cove, as well as the Wild Boar Room where winemaker dinners and private events are held.”
THE WINE – HEARTY YET ELEGANT
Today, I am presenting just one Eberle wine. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone. As a rule, I don’t correct typos from winery websites.
Winery Notes: “Eberle’s Zinfandel is sourced from six different districts within the Paso Robles Appellation. The ability to source fruit from different soils and microclimates allows our winemaker to produce a Zinfandel that is well-balanced, elegant, and of the highest quality…
“Eberle’s Zinfandel has all the traditional elements of a hearty zin, but its elegant style sets it apart from any other Zinfandels. This well-structured wine has upfront tannins and juicy flavors of blackberry, strawberry, and spiced plum with a touch of cardamom, sweet tobacco, and black pepper. Pair our Zinfandel with a cauliflower-crusted pizza with prosciutto, arugula, gorgonzola, and dried figs, or a grilled Portobello mushroom stuffed with goat cheese, grilled red peppers with a sprinkle of toasted pine nuts, or a delicious burger with all the fixing.”
My Review: Brown-tinged garnet in the glass. Dark plum, berries cassis, black tea and cinnamon on the nose. A lot of berry flavors on the complex palate – a touch on the sweet side, yet chewy. Cherry and intense dark fruit on the finish. We enjoyed this wine with our meal. March 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
Eberle Winery is rated as one of the top 10 wineries to visit in Paso Robles. Why? It’ not just about their award-winning wines, but also their cave tour!
“Eberle Winery offers a variety of seated tastings partnered with a cave tour. We are excited to share our educational experience of how wine is made and the history of Eberle Winery with you!”
Click the reservation linkto select your tour/tasting option and make an appointment.The winery is open dailt and is located at 3810 HWY 46 East, Paso Robles, CA 93446
Today I am wrapping up this Santa Lucia Highlands Extravaganza by presenting some local wineries, some we have visited before. I’m skipping adding the AVA and county in these listings as they are all except one from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County. As a practice, I do not correct typos from winery websites. Notetaking was minimal, but I will do my best to present some of the wines, impressions and experiences we had at this event.
“…Integrity is not just about the wine itself. It’s about everyone who helped create this wine experience. It’s complete when we add you. That’s integrity.” You can read more about Integrity here. I did write up a single Integrity rosé in this post long ago: Integrity: “honest, real, and one of a kind” wines “made for people by people”.
2021 Integrity Riesling $26 (#1348)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 vintage of the Santa Lucia Highlands Riesling from Integrity leans slightly away from the fruit forward Rieslings of California and flirts with a more restrained style. On the nose are notes of flinty Asian pear skins, nectarines, and lemon oil. The palate has a softness to it that is a nice contrast to the acidity of the Riesling. As the wine opens with time, all the aforementioned notes become more pronounced in a way that benefits the consumer…”
My Notes: We found this wine to be light on the palate and slightly sweet. This would be good on a warm day! May 2024
2021 Integrity Pinot Noir, $36 (#1349)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 vintage of the Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir displays the terroir of the Santa Lucia Highlands gracefully. The wine lifts with a bouquet of cinnamon oil, currants, cranberry, and sage. Structurally, the wine has fine tannins that are carried by a soft acidity and concludes with an integrated cedar and light tobacco wrapper coating. Over time the wine opens and becomes more fruit forward and starts to display dynamic notes of violets, rose petals, cardamom, and eucalyptus. The interplay of the tonality makes this wine a joy to drink…”
My Notes: A great mix of several select blocks from the vineyard. Rich on the palate, reflective of the region. May 2024
2019 Integrity Late Harvest Riesling, $28 (#1350)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Late Harvest Riesling is straw in color with a brilliant translucent rim. Medium-bodied and semi-sweet without feeling weighty, with aromas of candied citrus, fresh jasmine, hints of lychee and quince, with flavors of ripe apricot, orange blossom honey, essence of ginger and rosemary. This wine has balanced acidity.”
“Belle Glos showcases distinctive Pinot Noirs produced from California’s most noteworthy coastal wine-growing regions. While each vineyard location lies near the Pacific Ocean, the climate differences are significant, varying with the amount of fog, wind, sunlight, and soil type at each site. Each Vineyard Designate is crafted to distill the purest essence of the locale into elegant expressions of California Pinot Noir.
“Owner/winemaker, Joe Wagner chose the name Belle Glos (pronounced “BELL GLOSS”) to honor his grandmother, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner. Lorna was a co-founder of Caymus Vineyards, an inspirational figure to Joseph and an avid lover of Pinot Noir.”
2021 Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir, $55 (#1351)
Winery Notes: “Rich crimson in color with fragrant aromas of blackberry, sage, cherry, and hints of rich dark chocolate. Bold and elegant on the palate with boysenberry pie, black currant jam, dark plum, and subtle notes of ground nutmeg. Balanced and structured, this wine has beautiful acidity that lingers through to a long, mouthwatering finish.”
My Notes: This is the first Belle Glos wine I have tasted. I found this to be a good Pinot Noir from a high altitude in the Santa Lucia Highlands – very reflective of the region. I need to learn more about their wines. May 2024
“Tondré Wines began with a desire to produce the best possible wine for family and friends from fruit grown on the Alarid Family Home Ranch. Today, the Alarid family is happy and proud to share their limited production Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines to even the most discriminating wine connoisseur. Their award-winning wines continue to be produced exclusively with estate fruit grown on Tondré Grapefield in the heart of the renowned Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County.
“You are invited to experience truly artisanal wines that offer vibrant, elegant colors; deeply fragrant aromas; varietal purity on the palate and a velvety, lingering finish.”
2020 Tondré Chardonnay Tondré Grapefield (#1352)
Winery Notes: “The 2020 Vintage Chardonnay turned out to be a complicated year due to the wildfires in California. Although the smoke impacted the red grapes, it posed less of an issue for the whites. The reason being, they are not fermented on the skins the way Pinot Noir and other reds are. In years like these, great care is taken at this stage to prevent any smoke impact from affecting the juice. When the grapes are loaded into the press, they are pressed several times at a low pressure to extract every last ounce; a technique used by large wineries focused on volume rather than quality. Once pressed, our 2020 Vintage Chardonnay was entirely tank-fermented to show off the natural fruitiness. The resulting wine speaks for itself. It has the usual crisp apple notes with a hint of tropical fruit and the creaminess from the champagne yeast used during fermentation. This process helps to counter-balance the refreshing natural acidity.”
My Notes: Lots of minerality from one of the coveted vineyards in SLH! May 2024
2016 Tondré Pinot Noir, Tondré Grapefield (#1353)
Winery Notes: “The 2016 Vintage Pinot Noir shows an array of red and black cherry fruit, assorted ripe berries, nutmeg, and that wonderful Santa Lucia Highlands AVA spiciness that resembles dried herbs, potpourri and earthy forest floor. The palate is soft and plush with balanced acidity and moderate tannin. The tight grained oak used in aging graces the finish with a subtle note of cinnamon.”
My Notes: This was quite late in the tasting, so my sparse notes aren’t really fair – very representative of the region. I was quite distracted in conversation with one of the owners. May 2024
2021 Tondre Pinot Noir, Tondré Grapefield (#1354)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 vintage Pinot Noir offers a captivating display of luscious red and black cherry fruit, skillfully intermingled with a delightful blend of assorted spices that perfectly embodies the essence of Tondré Grapefield and the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The palate offers a velvety texture that exudes elegance. It’s acidity is balanced complementing the moderate tannins to perfection.”
“Testarossa Winery is a producer of premier California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Like all great start-ups, Testarossa Winery was started in 1993 in Rob and Diana Jensen’s Silicon Valley garage. Since then it has grown to national prominence, garnering more than 1,700 scores of 90+ points by renowned wine critics.” I have not had the chance to taste Testarossa wines since they closed their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village.
Winery Notes: “Straw hue. Nice aromas of brioche, honey, passionfruit and white peach leap out of the glass. With some time, notes of nectarine, apricot jam, and apple pie round out the nose. Upon taste, flavors of apple pie and apricot jam lead into a texture that is dense, yet decadent. This Chardonnay finishes full, intense, and with a smooth touch. Enjoy now through 2031.”
My Notes: A classic SLH, buttery Chardonnay. May 2024
Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “Roasted red cherry aromas meet with dried meat and sage on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. The palate’s snappy and fresh red fruits are lifted by mace and a pinch of chaparral herbs.” — Matt Kettmann
My Notes: I am not 100% sure that the display wine was the same one we tasted, as the website says the 2021 is sold out. That said, this Pinot Noir has some heft to it – tasty. May 2024
“Deeply rooted in family & friends, CRŪ Winery sources fruit from some of the finest vineyards throughout the Central Coast of California. With a focus on Burgundian and Rhone varietals such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah – which are best suited to this region, we craft wines for quality everyday drinking.”
We also tasted a CRŪ Chardonnay, but I am not sure which one, so I have to skip it in today’s write it up!
Winery Notes: “Every few vintages a special clone will stand out to our winemaking team and they will decide to bottle it on its own. Clone 777 from the Sarmento Vineyard is one of those wines. The wine starts with notes of raspberries, cherry and spicy tones of nutmeg and coriander before the full warm and rich mouthful of black cherry, cranberries, strawberry and spice that leads to its long and elegant finish with hints of cinnamon and hazelnut.” 95 points, Wine Enthusiast
My Notes: This wine was tasted very late in the event – earthy nose, classic palate. May 2024
“KORi Wines is the partnership between Santa Lucia Highlands grape/citrus grower Kirk Williams & his step-daughter Kori Violini. Kirk planted the first vines in 1998, and in 2007, they launched the initial KORi Wines Pinot Noir from the KW Ranch Vineyard. Sabrine Rodems has been the winemaker since 2010. In 2018, with much enthusiasm, they opened a tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea and offer a full assortment of wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sparkling Blanc de Blancs, and of course, Pinot Noir.” From https://montereywines.org/wineries/kori-wines/
2022 KORi Rosé, 13% ABV, $27 (#1358)
My Notes: Good fruit flavor, lean and a touch bitter. We had to warm this up – was served too cold. May 2024
My Notes: I’m a big fan of wines from the Griva Vineyard. This wine exhibited something mellow – a bit different from the typical Arroyo Seco Sauvignon Blanc. This is the one wine we tasted from outside the SLH designation. May 2024
Wine Enthusiast – 88 points: “From a vintage that many others skipped due to nearby wildfires, this bottling shows baked cherry and prominent oak aromas on the nose. The palate is quite extracted and thick with clone and nutmeg spices enhancing the very ripe fruits.” — Matt Kettmann
My Notes: Very late in the tasting, I got perfume on the nose. I find the fruit from KW Ranch to be some of the best for Pinot Noir and Syrah. May 2024
2019 KORi Syrah, KW Ranch, 14%, $42 (#650)
Winery Notes: “Dark fruit and white pepper.”
My Notes: Earthy. Dark ruby in the glass. Berries on the nose. Smooth on the palate with notes of berry jam and chocolate. February 2022/May 2024
THE TASTING ROOMS
I recommend visiting each winery’s website for more information about their tasting options!
ABOUT THE SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS SUN, WIND & WINE FESTIVAL
If you love Monterey Pinot Noirs, you have to attend the Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival at Mer Soleil winery. Held on May 18th, this Santa Lucia Highlands extravaganza of local and out-of-area wineries making wines from our premier AVA is the place to be. Once again, Decanting Monterey was privileged to receive tickets from the Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans. We are so grateful for this opportunity to see and taste so many wines made with our coveted Santa Lucia Highlands grapes all in a single event. Many thanks for your generosity.
I wrote about this event in 4 posts last year – just search “Sun Wind & Wine” on the Decanting Monterey website and they will all pop up. This year, I plan to cover the event in 2 posts. Todays is a little long, but keep reading!
The Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans said this about this event: “Join the preeminent producers of the Santa Lucia Highlands for an afternoon of delicious wine, gourmet delicacies from the area’s finest restaurants and food producers, an auction that benefits a local charity, live music, and more. Mer Soleil Winery generously opens its doors for the day, allowing fans of the region a peek into the beautiful property that’s not open to the public. More than 35 vintners personally pour 100+ sought-after Santa Lucia Highlands wines paired with bites by chefs from exceptional Monterey Peninsula restaurants and food purveyors.”
The number of wineries present was impressive! Here’s the list from the event website:
Belle Glos | Bernardus Winery | Bruliam Wines | Caraccioli Cellars | Cattleya Wines | Clarice Wine Company | CRU Winery | hope & grace | Integrity Wines | J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines | Joyce Wine Company | Kori Wines | Landmark Vineyards | Luli Wines | McIntyre Vineyards | Mer Soleil | Miner Family Winery | Mooney Family Vineyards | Morgan Winery | Odonata | Pessagno | Pisoni Vineyards | Puma Road Winery | ROAR Wines | Rombauer Vineyards | Rustique Winery | Sarah’s Vineyard | Scheid Family Wines | Siduri |Talbott Vineyards | Testarossa | Three Furies Wines | Tondre Wines | Tudor Wines | Truckee River Winery | Wrath Wines
We kept to the same strategy we used last year with one modification: Enjoy the food and focus on wineries we did not know, share pours, and dump the rest. We tried to stick to that approach, stopping for a bite to eat before we started tasting wine. There were so many delicious food options:
Ardent Culinaire | Carmel’s Hidden Gem | Cheesecake Dreamations | Dollycakes | La Balena Carmel | Lula’s Chocolates | Luigi’s | The Pocket Carmel | Rancho Cielo Drummond Culinary Academy | Schoch Family Farmstead Cheeses | Secret Bakery | Spotted Duck Pacific Grove | Star Market | Toasted Grilled Cheese | Woody’s at the Airport | Yafa Carmel | Zio Brand Meats, and more.
If you like good food – and love Pinot Noir, this Santa Lucia Highlands extravaganza is the event for you!
THE WINES – A SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS EXTRAVAGANZA!
Today I am kicking off this series presenting quite a few wines from this event from the wineries I do not know. But, before I do that, I want to share some of the experiences we had along the way with our local wineries. Because we were blessed with a Press/Trade pass, we got in early to taste some rare wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone. I’m skipping adding the AVA and county in these listings as they are all from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County. As a practice, I do not correct typos from winery websites. Notetaking was minimal, but I will do my best to present some of the wines, impressions and experiences we had at this event. Tomorrow’s post will dive deeper into some local wineries.
Let’s go!
ROAR: A stop at ROAR allowed us to taste two of their fantastic library wines. I noted on their website that they also make other varietals – so I definitely need to figure out how to taste them!
2011 ROAR Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir(#1326): A rich and intense wine. We preferred this one.
2009 ROAR Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir (#1327): Earth and perfume on the nose. Tasty palate.
McIntyre Vineyards: Since we just wrote up McIntyre, we got a quick taste of 2 special wines:
2020 Winemaker Series Pinot Noir – Sabrine Rodems (#1328): Rich and delicious, with a dark cherry finish.
2019 McIntyre Pinot Noir (#1329): Earthier, representative of SLH.
Pisoni Vineyards: I finally got to meet the legendary Gary Pisoni and his son and tasted 3 of their wines:
2023 Lucy Rose of Pinot Noir (#1330)
2021 Lucia by Pisoni Chardonnay, Soberanes Vineyard (#1331)
2022 Lucia by Pisoni Pinot Noir, Gary’s Vineyard (#1332): In my opinion, best Pinot Noir of the day!
And I will add here a stop at Cattelya from Rohnert Park, which I wrote about last year so I could taste their latest Syrahs:
2021 Cattelya The Initiation Syrah (#1333): Fruitier.
2022 Cattelya The Reward Syrah (#1334): Leaner, more elegant. Best Syrah of the day!
We also briefly stopped at 2 more local wineries: Morgan, which was pouring a couple of its Double L Vineyard Pinot Noirs, and Scheid, which had a Chardonnay and a library Pinot Noir for us to taste. I failed to get any notes at either!
“A boutique winery in Sonoma County with a focus on Pinot Noir and supporting animal shelters.”
2023 Moret-Brealynn Rose of Pinot Noir, 13.1% ABV, $28 (#1335):
Winemaker’s Notes: “Hooray, this wine is back in stock! Very similar to the 2022 I made from two fabulous vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands but offers a little more acidity and lift because I took juice that was five days on the skins instead of seven like I did in 2022. I source juice that has zero skin contact, then 48 hours later I take juice off the skins and stems, and make the blend complete with juice that was on the skins for five days. Fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels, this wine has delicious flavors of watermelon and strawberry which a great acidity that just keeps you wanting more. Less cases produced than 2022 so don’t dawdle on getting this wine into your fridge. I can’t wait to see what you pair with this wine.”
My Notes: A vibrant color in the glass. Perhaps the most delicious rose we tried at this event! May 2024
“Clarice Wine Company is a new and truly unique type of winery, combining aspects of an online wine community, a wine education website, and a limited-enrollment wine club.” Hm…so this is something different and worth heading to their website to learn more about them!
2021 Clarice Pinot Noir (#1336):
Winery Notes for the 2019: “The Santa Lucia Highlands is a Pinot Noir made from barrels sourced from Rosella’s Vineyard and Garys’ Vineyard. This purposeful blend is usually less new oak so more fruit flavors can shine through and should continue to evolve for a decade.”
My notes: Vibrant Ruby. This is not your typical SLH Pinot Noir – in a good way. May 2024
2019 Clarice Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard (the VIP pour) (#1337):
Winery Notes: “Fruit for this wine comes from two acres at Rosella’s Vineyard, two different sections and two different clones – Pommard and Pisoni. A beautifully balanced profile, this wine can be enjoyed any time over the coming decade.”
My Notes: Dark ruby in color. Rich on the palate. Delicious. One of today’s best. May 2024
“Established in 1989. Truckee River Winery is California’s highest and coldest winery. It all started in the garage of two Truckee locals. For 9 years, this ski lover and his wife, both UC Davis graduates, made great wine for their friends and family in the Truckee/Tahoe community before deciding to expand. They moved the winery into a two story barn on the river where they could make 1000 cases with the help of their daughter and friends. In 2009, they opened a tasting room on Brockway Road and expanded production to 2,500 cases annually. They specialize in single vineyard varietals and are known through out the area as producing high quality vintages year after year.”
Winery Notes: “Produced in a more traditional french fashion, this oaked Chardonnay balances ML fermentation with oak aging to create a crisp and smooth white wine with aromas of honeydew, light toast and creme fraiche. On the palate, our Chardonnay displays a harmonious blend of asian pair, orange blossom and hints of starfruit, finishing with a hint of pie crust.”
My Notes: A nice Chardonnay with a lot of minerality. May 2024
2018 Truckee River Winery Best Man Pinot Noir, Tondré Grapefield, 15.8% ABV, $77 (#1339)
Winery Notes: “Medium ruby and deep purple hue with full aromas of cassis and sweet spice with a hint of fresh earth. The palate is rich, nearly full-bodied, with ripe black fruit, subtle spice and vanilla. Toasted oak, leather, and dark cherry is sustained on the midpalate. The finish is complex with balanced acidity and mouth-filling tannins that balance the generous fruit intensity of this wine nicely.”
My Notes: A big mouthful of deliciousness with a slightly bitter finish. May 2024
“Chateau Margene, now in its 26th year, began with the fulfillment of a dream by Michael & Margene Mooney to plant a vineyard, build a winery and establish their home in the Paso Robles area in 1997. The family took up residence on the property in the Summer of 1998 (where they still live today) and planted the estate vineyard in the Fall of 1998… The Mooney Family label was started in 2004 with purchased grapes from growers in the Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH) and Sta. Rita Hills AVA’s. The varietal focus for Mooney Family wines is Pinot Noir & Chardonnay from the SLH & SRH AVA’s.”
2023 Mooney Family Steel Chardonnay, $58 (#1342)
Winery Notes: “Exceptional blend – fruit driven with crisp minerality and natural acidity makes this a Spring/Summer wine to enjoy with friends and family. 100% Santa Lucia Highlands fruit off the esteemed Boekenoogen Vineyard.”
My Notes: Lean with lots of minerality. May 2024
2021 Mooney Family Pinot Noir, Boekenoogen Vineyard, $90 (#1343)
Winery Notes: “Pommard 4 and Dijon 115 clones aged in Francois Feres barrels for 23 months. Intensely dark for a 100% Pinot Noir. Rich & robust with aromatics of black/red cherry, cola and warm baking spices. A layered wine with fleshy fruits and chewy tannins. Be amazed by this its smooth, pleasing mouthfeel and finish.”
My Notes: Dill on the nose with flavors representative of SLH. May 2024
2022 Mooney Family Pinot Noir, Tondré Grapefield (#1344)
My Notes: Classic – richer and slightly sweeter than the previous one. I preferred this one.
“Our winemaking goal is to produce Pinot Noir that best captures the distinct flavor and character of a given vineyard site and region. To that end, we focus on Pinot Noir, and source only from vineyards that provide us with exceptional fruit. Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, is the result of our founders’ mutual love of Pinot Noir, and their dream that they could make great wines of their own.” You can read more here.
Winery Notes: “…The 2021 Garys’ opens with floral notes and sage with lingering dark fruit. The palate has laser-like focus upon the first sip then gradually expands with flavors of seared tomato, crushed gravel, and roasted cranberry. With brilliant acidity and expressive tannins, the finish is beautifully knit and persistent. This would benefit from decanting and will be one that can be kept in the cellar for some years to come.”
My Notes: Elegant and smooth with some tobacco on the finish. May 2024
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Intense aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and vibrant cinnamon pop on the nose of this bottling. The palate combines floral flavors of elderflower and violet with a black plum core, pushing deeply into the finish.” — Matt Kettmann
My Notes: I think I am becoming a Rosella’s Vineyard girl – I liked this wine.
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Cleanly presented aromas of smashed boysenberry and black plum are lifted by cinnamon and mace on the nose of this bottling. Those spice elements hold firm through the sip, where Red Hot candy enlivens the rich red-fruit core.” — Matt Kettmann
My Notes: By this point, our palates were weary. We detected no nose and this wine seemed lighter than the others.
THE TASTING ROOMS
Please refer to individual winery websites for their tasting room locations and hours!
Many years ago, we stopped into the Mercy tasting room at the entrance of Carmel Valley Village. It was the winery which first introduced us to the Zabala and Griva vineyards, from which they produced exceptional whites and reds. Their tasting room portrayed photos of the rocky soils of Zabala Vineyards. I quickly became obsessed with Zabala. If I see it listed on a wine label, I know right away the wine has the potential to be fantastic.
In 2019, while our daughter was visiting from the east coast, I asked my family to jump in the car with me so I could see the rocky vineyards chock full of “Greenfield potatoes,” as the smooth river rocks are fondly called. I think they thought I was a little crazy. I was presenting Mercy wines in my east coast wine class and felt I needed to see the vineyards for myself. I had become a Zabala Vineyards groupie, especially for Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah wines made from their grapes.
Since Mercy closed, I have been on a hunt for any winery who makes a single varietal Syrah from Zabala Vineyards. I have yet to find one rivaling Mercy’s bounty, but I keep looking.
A year or so later, our friend who makes up part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod informed us me that Luis Zabala was in his biking group. He promised to introduced us…but time went on.
Fast forward to the August 2023 Arroyo Seco Winegrowers’ 40th Anniversary celebration, which I covered in two posts: Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers!and The Big Party Continues for Arroyo Seco Winegrowers! While I was there to cover the event in Decanting Monterey, the entire time I was looking for, asking about, and trying to meet Luis Zabala. A shameless groupie indeed! I got someone to point him out, texted my friend a picture to be sure, and introduced myself to him. I explained our mutual friend connection, and Luis kindly offered to have us down to the vineyard for a tour. We finally made it there in March – with our friend!
Thank you, Luis, for hosting us, humoring us, and being patient with us while we asked you all our questions. Spending that time in your vineyard with you was a very special day for Decanting Monterey – and me personally.
ABOUT ZABALA VINEYARDS – WHAT DID I LEARN
I came armed with a list of questions and Luis patiently – and with subtle humor – answered them all. Who knew he was a comedian! I am going to intersperse what I learned with the official history and other information on their website, which I would encourage you to read in full – so much richness of Californian history in this property and family. The text in quotes comes directly from their website:
Originally of Spanish Basque heritage, his family came up to what is now the Central Coast of California in the 1840’s and 50’s from Valparaiso, Chile.
“In earlier days, our forefathers defended the states’ historic missions of what would become California, and in return were granted various tracts of land in the Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. While the specifics of those plots have evolved over the last two centuries, our family has retained over 2,500 acres of this land between the coastal counties today.”
Luis showed us a map of his property and the vineyards. While most of the area was farmland, the big swath where the vineyards are today was “marginal land” – not suitable for farming.
“Our ancestors have been farming the land for over a century. However, it was not until the early 1970’s that J. Luis Zabala was approached by investors from the community to plant the Zabala holdings with wine grapes. The site proved to be ideal for growing Chardonnay, as the demand for quality Californian wines quickly expanded.”
So, how did Luis get involved? Intending to work in a different field, he got his MBA in finance and worked in technology up in Seattle – until the situation at the vineyard dictated that he needed to return. He’s now been in the business for 30 years. And his daughter, Leslie, has joined him in the business.
“Since the seventies, the vineyard has continued to expand. In the 1980’s, Luis Zabala Sr. passed ownership of the land to his five children, who continue his legacy by growing premium wine grapes in the family name. Zabala Vineyards now holds over one thousand acres of Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir in one of California’s most unique viticultural regions, and contributes to the highest premium vineyard-designate wine bottlings from the Central Coast.”
Luis added the following beyond their current webpage:
“The success of Zabala Vineyards really is a Team effort. Namely, Jason Melvin providing the wisdom of his years of experience as Vineyard Manager, my wife Joni Zabala, as the guiding light and sounding board behind the success of the vineyard, and Leslie Zabala, representing the next generation who is vitally interested in carrying on the family legacy.”
I love that!
One of our first questions was how many acres was his vineyard. He quipped, “It’s only one, but it is really narrow.” Funny guy. Then he answered us seriously. Today he has about 800 acres planted, growing a number of varieties, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Graciano, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, and Syrah. I hope I got them all! As we approached Zabala Vineyardsfrom the north, we noticed acres and acres of uprooted vines. My first question was about those vines. The vines are about 30 years old, so they have begun the process to rip out (and I hope replant) those older vines.
The fruit from his vines makes incredible wine. I asked him what makes his fruit so special? He had a very simple response: “It is the struggle.” The vines must struggle through the rocky soil to get to the water and nutrients while enduring the frigid, windy nights. As Mercy’s website used to say, the Arroyo Seco AVA is “windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful.”
I love to present Zabala Sauvignon Blanc wines in my classes from various producers, such as Corral Wine Co. and I Brand’s Paysan label. The wines are floral and tropical with a nice minerality on the finish. I am presenting the 2022 vintage from Corral in my upcoming wine class.
I am forever seeking a Syrah made from Zabala grapes that can match the flavor of the Mercy wine. Luis showed me a shelf of bottles of Zabala Vineyard Syrah and suggested I check out I Brand, Corral Wine Co., Lepe Cellars, Morgan, and Field Recordings (in Paso Robles). Of those, I know that Lepe Cellars and Field Recordings bottle Zabala Syrah as a single varietal.
We toured his property to see the Syrah vines up close, including some new vines just being planted. We got a good look at the large, smooth “Greenfield potatoes.” He also provided a lesson about irrigation and the use of bilateral cordon and unilateral cordon with cane grape trellising to achieve a “balanced vineyard.” Made sense, but he knew we had no idea what he was talking about.
We asked Luis what he thought of the 2023 vintage. He finished harvest in mid-November and was happy with the ripening, despite there not being a hot day all summer. We asked how much fruit he produced and he pulled our legs responding that “one ton gets a good price.” He harvests several thousands of tons of grapes, either by machine or by hand, depending on the customer’s request. And the wineries decide when their fruit gets picked.
I had asked him earlier in the day if he ever intended to produce his own wines for sale to the public. His response was that it is a different business model, with a heavy focus on sales and lots of time on the road. He is content running the operations of this large vineyard. We wrapped up our tour visiting the small trailer that contains his “winery” with his little label “machine” and a few barrels. Charming. Definitely not a set-up for large production!
As we ended our tour, he generously handed us bottles of his own Syrah which he makes for family and friends. Thank you, Luis, for sharing your time, your world, your expertise, your vines, your humor and your wine with us. It was a perfect afternoon which we will not forget.
THE WINE
2019 Zabala Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1320)
My Review: Hint of tar, opening up into full-on blackberry jam and pipe tobacco. The medium-bodied palate was dominated by blackberry fruit, with a distinct cherry on the finish. Opened up to present as a rich, full-bodied wine on day 2, with a tannic finish.The fruit is quite delicious on this wine. April 2024
Last June, I received Roxanne Langer’s (Lady Somm) business card from a neighbor. Roxanne and I started corresponding vie email with the intent of meeting up to discuss her wine business ideas. After scheduling, sniffles and holiday delays, we finally met in person in early February – after her concept for her business with her sister Tamara Carver, had been solidified. We met at their storefront located at the Barnyard Shopping Village in Carmel. There was a lot of activity in their soon-to-be shop, with workers and deliveries happening nonstop throughout our conversation as they prepared for Lady Somm’s Grand Opening on March 21.
I was excited to meet Roxanne and Tamara and learn about their vision for the business – to make this space a place for wine education, wine tasting, special events and dinners, and a shop for wine and other cute items. Although they weren’t originally thinking of a physical location such as the Barnyard, when the opportunity was presented to them, they couldn’t turn it down. The space is super cute, with a vintage feel and a feminine touch.
Lady Somm is an ambitious undertaking in a place already dotted with wineries and wine shops. They distinguish themselves by their breadth of offerings and their depth of experience. As a Monterey wine educator myself, I offered them my help in any capacity. They invited me to their Grand Opening and subsequently invited me to one of their tastings. Thank you, ladies!
ABOUT LADY SOMM
From their website: “At the heart of Lady Somm are two sisters, Roxane Langer and Tamara Carver, whose passion for wine has blossomed into a mission to share it with the world. With backgrounds that span the globe and the wine spectrum, they invite you to join them on a journey of discovery, education, and enjoyment. Welcome to our world of wine.”
On their website, you can dive deeper into all of their wine education, tasting salon, travel and special events. I encourage you to take a peek! I am excited about their offerings – there is something for every budget. It looks like a place for regular wine events, running the spectrum from informal to fancy. It will be a fun place to hang out on the regular! I’m excited to try one of their Blind Tastings – can’t make the first one and hope they will do it again!
LADY SOMM’S GRAND OPENING
The Lady Somm Grand Opening on March 21st 2024 was quite an event! Set outdoors on a lovely afternoon, it was replete with wine tastings, catered food and chocolates, as well as acrobatic and artistic performers. The local Chambers of Commerce and press were there to assist with a formal ribbon cutting ceremony.
Artist Bekah Bull
Several of our local wineries were there, including Talbot, Wrath, Big Sur, Dawn’s Dream, and the Paso Robles-based Cordant Winery. I also got to speak with Qouignowner and baker/chocolatier Santana Rodriguez, who makes some of the most exquisite chocolates in our region.
THE WINE
Today I am following my approach to events by focusing on wineries I do not know. I am presenting to you a single wine from Cordant Winery. If I had noticed them sooner, I would have tried all their wines – this calls for a trip back down to Paso Robles! You can read more about visiting them here: “Join In Our Journey.”
ABOUT CORDANT
From their website: “Cordant wines are made without an agenda, but with close attention to detail.”
“We source grapes from a selection of the best vineyards throughout the California Central Coast from which to make our Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Rhone-style wines. Some are chosen with intention for vineyard designation because of their unique ability to express a specific location. Others are chosen purposefully to demonstrate what vineyards can do in combination, and for their ability to contribute to a greater good.”
2021 Cordant Indocile, Central Coast AVA, 14.5% ABV, $65 (#1282)
Winery Notes: “This year presented us with an opportunity to craft a new wine to showcase the uniqueness of the vintage. Cordant is known for producing both vineyard-designated and blended wines, such as our southern-Rhone inspired “Maniacal” GSM. So it seemed only fitting that we craft a northern-Rhone inspired blend to showcase our cooler-climate Syrah vineyards. The result is the first release of “Indocile”. Sourcing Syrah from some of our favorite vineyards, many in Monterey County, this wine is brimming with a mixture of cool and warm climate characteristics: dark fruits, herbs de Provence, lavender, and cigar to name a few. At the same time, it is also incredibly silky and sensual on the palate; we can’t get enough of it.” 93 points: Decanter. 96 points Drunken Cyclist.
My Review: Typical for a big event, I was unable to take notes at this event, so I am going from memory. This was a voluptuous, smooth, big red made in my style with lots of Syrah to make this a wine I could just keep drinking. I definitely need to get to Paso for a tasting. March 2024
We really enjoy our big red wines from Parsonage. During February, we tried 3 of them: the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, the newly-released 2018 Tanner Reserve, and a recent library acquisition: the 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – before it was named Tanner! Who says Monterey doesn’t make great cabs?
We recently dined with friends at Maligne restaurant in Seaside, CA. We decided to bring a special wine for corkage there and thought the 2005 Parsonage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon would be the perfect one – it did not disappoint!
I’ve presented Parsonage wines to you many times. Just type Parsonage in the search bar of any page on the Decanting Monterey website. And while you’re there, sign up to get my blog delivered to your email every Thursday!
THE WINES – Who Says Monterey Doesn’t Make Great Cabs?
Today, I am presenting five Parsonage wines. Winery notes come from their website, tasting sheets, or release notes, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone. I previously presented the 2017 Parsonage Cabernet Sauvignon way back in 2020 and this is the first time I have presented the rest.
Winery Notes (upon release): “This Cabernet Sauvignon field blend is joined with a mix of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s a full-throttle bombastic beauty, typical of younger vines. The nose is all about very dark fruit marked by brambleberry compote. Plum and cassis join with the brambleberry on a muscular palate that finishes with some major league tannins.”
My Review: Luscious and beautiful intense, dark garnet in the glass. Tobacco, intense dark fruit on the nose. A palate of black fruits with a chalky and bitter tannic finish. It’s a big wine. Needs to open up. February 2024
Winery Notes: “Round and opulent with fully ripened tannins leading to a smooth finish.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. (Or as Bill Parsons said, “One of the deepest mauves I’ve ever seen.”) A lot of fresh fruit and caramel on the nose. Good balance of tasty fruit and structure. This wine has a long way to go. As my partner said, “The tannins are very assertive.” Hold this wine. February 2024
2005 Parsonage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $135 (#1269)
grapelive.com Review: “Every vintage just gets better here, and 2005 looks set to take the throne as the Parsonage king wine. Nothing in this area even comes close to this wine, it is a freak of nature and I can only compare it to Napa and Pauillac in its style and richness, then again it just might even be better! Bill Parsons finds it hard to take in, but he is a man living the dream, as his wines rank as world class or even world-beaters! The 05 Reserve Cab is utterly fantastic with blackberry jam, cassis, currants and plum fruit bursting at the seams, it is almost more impressive for the depth and balance that is has! Everything is in its place and the wine is so focused and defined it can’t help but be a classic.” 98 Points, grapelive
My Review: Very dark in the glass. Dirt, oak and black fruit notes on the nose. Delicious and well-structured palate, finishing with blackberry, plum and dark cherry flavors. Can respect the age of this very well made and elegant wine. It is aging nicely and can still be enjoyed for years to come. If you’ve got one, why not enjoy it now? February 2024
2020 Parsonage The Aussie Red Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $44 (#1270)
Winery Notes: “Our popular, magical blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. We like to pair it with rack of lamb or duck. This is a big red wine. 50% Cab and 50% Syrah.
“The 2020 Aussie posits a massive bouquet in a spectrum of rich black fruit, fennel, and mineral notes. The robust palate exhibits blackberry, currant and an explosion of savory, earthy, grilled meat on its full throttle finish.”
My Review: Cherry notes, followed by a big palate of dark fruit. My style of wine. The first 2 times I tried it, I detected a hint of smoke on the finish. However, I did not notice that at all on my last tasting. March 2024
Winery Notes: “A fragrant nose of rose petal, bing cherry, cola, and Darjeeling tea. Theses flavor essences are joined on the medium-density palate by strawberry and red raspberry on the elegantly tart finish. Pairs excellently with Gruyere and crackers.”
My Review: We tasted this wine and considered it representative of the region. It’s a good Pinot. I’m not a Pinot Noir fan and I didn’t take specific notes. My apologies. February 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
Parsonage is open for tastings every day – click herefor the details and to make a reservation. Hours: Monday – Friday: noon to 5pm; Saturday & Sunday: 11am to 5pm. Last seating for wine tasting: 4:15pm. You can obtain their wines directly from the winery here or at their tasting room located at 19 E Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village.
Today’s post is just a simple story, but I uncovered greatness behind it. I found today’s wine at an airport hotel restaurant/bar. I was asking if another wine was a blend and the staff pointed me to this Austin HopeTroublemaker: “still stirring things up.”
“Austin Hope is the mark of our family’s multigenerational legacy in Paso Robles, reserved for the finest expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon and estate Rhône varieties. These are the definitive wines from Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 American Winery of the Year.
““The goal is simple: to make wines that express everything Paso Robles has to offer, with its pastoral beauty, perfect soils, maritime climate and limitless possibility.” Austin Hope
“Winemaker Austin Hope created his namesake label in 2000, just five years after taking the helm of the family business. Austin Hope wines were initially dedicated to Rhône varieties grown at the Hope family’s estate vineyard.
“Then, in 2017, after years of exploration and only when he felt he could create something truly exceptional, Austin released his first Cabernet Sauvignon—which became an immediate standard-bearer of Paso Robles.
“Today, Austin Hope wines are synonymous with Austin’s personal quest to elevate Paso Robles on the world stage.
“In Austin Hope’s younger days he was something of a troublemaker. And on those days when his schoolwork or attitude didn’t quite live up to the family’s expectations, he was sent to the vineyards for a hard day’s work meant to teach him a lesson. Little did the Hope’s know that this childhood punishment would be the beginning of a life-long passion and career. It was in those days spent in the vineyards, the Paso Robles sun beating down and his hands in the dirt, that Austin found inspiration for his life’s journey.
“Troublemaker is inspired by those early days of pushing boundaries and finding your path. Still stirring things up, we here at Troublemaker are all about challenging the status quo and embracing the journey of life. The way we see it, rules restrict our ability to create and innovate. Besides, pushing the boundaries is fun.”
Sub AVAs: Central Coast (Paso Robles – Creston/El Pomar/Estrella, Arroyo Grande Valley, Monterey)
Varietals: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah
THE WINE
Today, I am presenting just this one wine. Winery notes come from their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Austin Hope Troublemaker Red Blend, Central Coast AVA, $20 (#1255)
Winey Notes: “Troublemaker Blend 16 has an opaque purple color. The nose is bursting with jammy boysenberry and blackberry, along with a fresh hint of raspberry. These fruit aromas carry through to the palate and are accentuated by underlying tones of peppercorns, dried tobacco and roasted coffee. Velvety tannins and balancing acidity bring out the vibrant fruit character of this complex blend.”
“Comprised of varietals that flourish in Paso Robles’ distinct growing region, Troublemaker consists of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Zinfandel. Syrah is the backbone of the wine, setting the stage for a fruit-forward style and a full body. Petite Sirah contributes to the deep ruby color. Sweet and bright red fruit flavors of Grenache blend with the rustic and lively flavors of the Mourvèdre, while Zinfandel adds its signature zing to round out the blend.”
My Review: Dark in the glass with earth, plum and black fruits. Dark and brooding on the palate, with tobacco, plum, cassis and coffee. It’s a big, complex, heavy wine that comes at a great value. I’d like to try this again when I know it is a fresh pour. January 2024
THE TASTING ROOM
“The Austin Hope & Treana Tasting Cellar offers seated tastings with a casual, fun approach to award winning, world class wines. The spacious, unique tasting areas are a blend of eclectic décor, lounges and outdoor cabanas overlooking the estate vines. We look forward to sharing our wines, our passion and creating an exceptional experience for you. Reservations are strongly encouraged as we sell out frequently.”
Located at 1585 Live Oak Road in Paso Robles. Open 10-5 daily. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
For additional information please call 805-238-4112 or email cheers@hfwines.com
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