Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited. Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays.
When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth. Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t. They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!
About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California. Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA. The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils. Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860. Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016. Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”
From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay. A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”
2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com
Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months. Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”
wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019
My Review: Light pink in the glass. Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish. I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”
Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.” 92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019
My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose. Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.” 91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass. Dark berry notes on the nose. Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness. Well balanced. A tasty wine. October 2020
2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)
Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color. Berry jam on the nose. Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish. We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate. Still drinking well a week later. I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons. I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort. October 2020
Their tasting room is open by appointment. You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
© Decanting Monterey 2020
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