Monthly Archive: June 2023

Sun, Wind & Wine: Great Wine and Food in the Prestigious Santa Lucia Highlands AVA!

Part 1: Luli Wines and Mansfield-Dunne

Last year, I was offered a media ticket by Chef’s Palette Spice Rubs to go to the Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival, but I was unable to go.  This year, I decided to ask the festival directly!  I was generously offered early access tickets to this year’s event on May 13th.  Thank you so much!

As my avid readers know, Decanting Monterey is a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines.  The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners.  I was grateful for this opportunity.

We were surprised to find that the event was indoors – inside the large barrel room of Mer Soleil. We ditched our hats and sunglasses and went inside.  The event reminded us a bit of the California red barrel tastings that Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages in DC used to hold.  I miss those events and am sad they are no longer happening.

The Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans said this about this event: “Sun, Wind & Wine. The Santa Lucia Highlands is a small but mighty winegrowing appellation in Monterey County that cultivates California’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With generations of family farming, innovation and sustainability as our legacy, our growers and vineyards have earned their place among the state’s most prestigious names for appellation and single-vineyard cool-climate varieties.” The number of wineries present was staggering! Here’s the list from the event website:

Belle Glos | Bernardus Winery | Bruliam Wines | Caraccioli Cellars | Cattleya Wines | Clarice Wine Company | CRU Winery | Folktale Winery & Vineyards | Hahn Family Wines | Integrity Wines | J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines | Joyce Wine Company | Kori Wines | Landmark Vineyards | Luli Wines | Mansfield-Dunne Wines | McIntyre Vineyards | Mer Soleil | Miner Family Winery | Mooney Family Vineyards | Morgan Winery | Odonata | Pessagno | Pisoni Vineyards | Puma Road Winery | Rexford Winery | ROAR Wines | Rombauer Vineyards | Sarah’s Vineyard | Scheid Family Wines | Siduri | Testarossa | Three Furies Wines | Tolosa | Tondre Wines | Windy Oaks | Wrath 

We had a strategy going in – to focus on wineries we did not know, to share pours, and to dump the rest.  We stuck to that approach – but stopped for a bite to eat before we started tasting wine.  There were so many delicious food options – and the portions were not exactly “finger food” but more of a mini meal!  Here’s who was there (from the event website):

Ardent Culinaire | Carmel’s Hidden Gem | Carmel Valley Ranch | Cheesecake Dreamations | Chef’s Palate Spice Rubs | Chef Jacques Zagouri | Dollycakes | H Jackson Events | Lula’s Chocolates | Luigi’s | Rancho Cielo Drummond Culinary Academy | Real Good Fish | Schoch Family Farmstead Cheeses | Star Market | Woody’s at the Airport | Yafa Carmel | Zio Brand Meats, and more.

The pork sandwich provided by Chef’s Palette Spice Rubs, a delicious schnitzel, Schoch Dairy cheeses (which makes the only Monterey Jack cheese produced in Monterey), and Lula’s Chocolates were a few delicious. Yes, Lula’s Chocolates…yum.

If you like good food – and love Pinot Noir this is the event for you!

Our strategy worked pretty well.  For the most part, we did not have to stand in line and tried many wines from wineries we had not experienced before, as well as catching up with a few well-known-to-us wineries.  I tried to take notes and pictures, but the whole thing was a bit overwhelming. We did have some good conversations with the new-to-us wineries. 

One of my biggest takeaways was how many out of area wineries were present, banking on the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA name on their bottles.  After all, according to the Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association (my go-to resource on Monterey wine), Monterey County is the largest producer of Chardonnay in the United States and the largest producer of Pinot Noir in California and roughly 50% of Monterey County grapes are purchased outside the county. 

I’ve broken the coverage of this event into several posts, beginning with our true Monterey County wineries.  To make it even more special, I am starting today with 2 local wineries we had not heard of before this event. They deserve it! Any winery notes are from their websites or from the pourers at this event. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Instead of detailed tasting notes, I’ll talk about some of the wineries we met through this event and impressions of the wines we tasted. 

I will present the rest of the Monterey wineries the following week, then the other Central Coast wineries, wrapping with the out of area wineries. And, consistent with our tasting strategy, I have only included wineries we have not presented before. 

As a reminder:  Pinot Noir is not my wheelhouse, so I can only go by impressions. That said, I would gladly attend this event again – and take even more pictures!

Let’s go!

LULI WINES

We had never heard of Luli Wines.  This was our very last stop on this day and was a great discovery.  Yes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – but also a very nice Syrah, a varietal I seek out wherever we taste. We had no idea in the moment that this was a very special Sara Floyd-Pisoni Family project!

About Luli Wines:

“Wine offers expression of people-in-relation rather than selves apart. Luli, the result of a partnership between a master sommelier, a distinguished vineyard manager and an expert winemaker, provides a particularly happy example of the way in which wine creates community, because Luli is itself a collective enterprise. Sommelier, grape-grower, and winemaker, we three approach wine from different angles, but work synergistically to craft exceptional hand-crafted vintages at comfortable prices. We thrive together—and have fun doing so. And why not? The pleasure of wine supplies us with a way to enjoy life. So open a bottle, pour the swirling liquid into a glass, and celebrate, as we do, the bonds between family and friends.

“Sara Floyd, our sommelier, owns Swirl Wine Brokers and has a long history finding and distributing delectable wines for restaurants. Mark Pisoni, our grape grower, coaxes the vines to produce top-notch fruit with which Jeff, his brother, crafts outstanding vintages. With Luli, we set out as a team to create a new line of wines from high-quality fruit that is both affordable and top-notch.

“Luli wines are sourced from vineyards in or near the Santa Lucia Highlands, the Pisoni family’s home base. Together with Sara, the goal of Jeff and Mark is to illustrate the very best this beautiful wine region has to offer. Accordingly, we purchase grapes from old friends in the area and in this way stay close to the process of farming.

“We live wine. We are a master sommelier, grapegrowers and winemakers. Our partnership—Sara Floyd and the Pisoni Family—came together from different aspects of the wine business. Sara is a Master Sommelier, the owner of Swirl Wine Brokers and has a long history in wine and restaurants. The Pisoni Family is known for its eponymous vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands and for Pisoni Estate and Lucia wines. Deciding that we would make a great team and noting the shortage of handcrafted wines at reasonable prices, we set out to create a new line of wines that you would love, at prices you can afford. We seek high quality fruit and craft exceptional wines.”

2022 Luli Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $22 (#993)

Winery Notes from the Tech Sheet: “…The 2022 Luli Chardonnay presents itself with a bold lemon-hued core that stretches to the edge of glass, where tinges of youthful green brilliance become perceptible. Ripe notes of red apple, fresh pear, and subtle hints of stone fruit act as a veritable aromatic orchard, while undertones of flint and baking spice add complexity. Seamlessly traveling from nose to palate, this Chardonnay continues with flavors of crisp apple, toasted vanilla bean, and a hint of lemon oil. Aging in 100% neutral oak and without any malolactic fermentation allows the truest expression of this variety to shine. Chalky texture from sur lie aging and fresh acidity from the influences of the Pacific Ocean create a dazzling and lengthy finish.” 1,129 cases produced

2021 Luli Lemoravo Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#994)

Winery Notes from the Tech Sheet:

THE VINEYARD: “The Lemoravo Vineyard is set 400 feet in elevation in the southern hills of the Santa Lucia Highlands. The vineyard is planted among the decomposed granite alluvial fans that make up a series of isolated islands among the bench lands. This site places the vineyard in rugged soils and heavy fog. As a tribute to this land’s history, the name is a three-word portmanteau as a tribute to the region’s former crops: Lemons, Oranges, and Avocados…”

TASTING NOTES: “The 2021 Luli Lemoravo Vineyard Pinot Noir is a refreshing example of the dynamic terroir and climate within the Santa Lucia Highlands. Deep ruby to its core, this wine slowlyunfolds with layered aromas of strawberry crème, fresh-cut sage, red cherry, and sandalwood. Staying true to its aromatic profile, flavors of candied Bing cherry, kirsch, black tea, and fresh earth immerse the palate completely. This is a deliciously complex Pinot Noir that finishes with noticeable texture, youthful acidity, and soft, silky tannin.” 142 cases produced

2021 Luli Monte Linda Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#995)

Winery Notes from the Tech Sheet:

THE VINEYARD: “Residing high above the Salinas Valley at almost 715 feet in elevation, Monte Linda Vineyard is in the southern portion of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. This vineyard sits above the morning fog line, allowing for greater sun exposure, while at the same time seeing cooler nighttime temperatures, allowing the vines to rest and achieve a longer growing season. These conditions, along with the vineyard’s rocky soils, create deeply textured wines with notable structure…”

TASTING NOTES: “Sporting a youthful, purple-tinged hue, this Pinot Noir packs a bouquet of vibrant aromas of black cherry, plum, and a spicy undertone of vanilla, clove, and cinnamon. On the palate,

soft tannin envelops juicy flavors of dark berry compote, while savory notes of baking spice and earthy hints of forest floor create added complexity. The coastal influences of the Santa Lucia Highlands permit long hang-time for each pristine cluster, resulting in optimum berry development and ripeness as well as preservation of age-worthy acidity.” 94 cases produced.

2021 Luli Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.1% ABV, $23   (#996)

Winery Notes from the Tech Sheet:

THE VINEYARD: “The 2021 Syrah was sourced entirely from various sustainably farmed vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands. The vines are well-trained, carry low yields and are planted to a variety of different clones. Soils are well-drained and primarily granite in composition. These factors, combined with the fog and cool winds of the Santa Lucia Highlands provide wonderful growing conditions for Pinot Noir.”

TASTING NOTES: “Sporting richly hued shades of dark ruby and near purple, the 2021 Luli Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah is a hidden gem crafted from a notoriously difficult vintage in this prestigious Californiaappellation. Each swirl in the glass brings new life to this savory and spicy offering, with notes of freshly ground coffee, dark chocolate, new leather, and spiced plum filling setting the stage. As this deliciously pure Syrah coats the palate, waves of blackberry crumble, red cherry, and black pepper pair with hints of dried herbs de Provence and subtle meaty undertones to create a complex mélange of flavors. Approachable to its core, this wine still possesses structured tannin and remarkable acidity which suggests it will continue to age for years to come.” 475 cases produced

My Review: This Syrah was inky in the glass with rich, smooth dark fruit flavors.  It is a lovely Syrah – and without what I call the Central Coast Syrah funk!  I would like to try this wine again and again. May 2023

MANSFIELD-DUNNE

We had never heard of Mansfield-Dunne before and were very excited to learn about this winery.  There wines were impressive. Its vineyards are here in the Santa Lucia Highlands, while its winery and tasting room, interestingly, are in San Francisco!

About Mansfield-Dunne:

“Mansfield-Dunne is a grower-producer of Santa Lucia Highlands wines. Only by owning our vineyards and meticulous organic farming, are we able to represent the true essence of the Santa Lucia Highlands — for us it truly starts in the vineyard…

“Our two estate vineyards show the breadth of possibilities in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

“Since 2011, we have been producing estate Pinot Noir from Peterson Vineyard and have added additional wines from Peterson and Cortada Alta as nature and vineyard development have allowed. Our Single Vineyard wines provide age-worthy expressions of what the Santa Lucia Highlands are capable of, while our Appellation wines show how our two single vineyards compliment each other. The full range of wines is driven by a desire to showcase what grows best in the Santa Lucia Highlands and the range of the appellation.”

VISIT Mansfield-Dunne: “Mansfield-Dunne is a grower-producer of Santa Lucia Highlands wines. Only by owning our vineyards and meticulous organic farming, are we able to represent the true essence of the Santa Lucia Highlands — for us it truly starts in the vineyard.

“Mansfield-Dunne Wines sources fruit only from our estate vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands and produces wine at our winery located in San Francisco. Winery visits are available to our members by appointment. Reach out to us and we will respond as soon as possible.”

All winery notes come from this link: https://www.mansfield-dunne.com/Wines

2022 Mansfield-Dunne Peterson Vineyard Rosé, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14% ABV, $29 (#997)

Winery Notes: “This complex, ruby pink Rosé of Pinot Noir is a perfect year-round refreshment.  The nose greets you with notes of candied strawberry, fresh cut roses, and grapefruit zest.  Juicy acid is framed by notes of strawberry shortcake, maraschino cherry, rose water and a subtle minerality.  This wine finishes soft and creamy with pleasant bursts of toasty spice.”

2020 Mansfield-Dunne  Peterson Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.2% ABV, $45 (#998)

Winery Notes: “Tropical and rich to its core, this vintage of Peterson Chardonnay expresses intense fruit, beautiful spice, and complex minerality. The nose opens with notes of guava, toasted coconut, and savory pineapple balanced by perfumed vanilla bean. On the palate, soft acidity frames notes of fresh melon and lemon zest. Rich baking spice, subtle pepper, and smooth vanilla peak on a long textured and creamy finish that goes on and on. Enjoy now through 2026.”

2019 Mansfield-Dunne Cortada Alta Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $58 (#999)

Winery Notes: “This dark purple, elegant Pinot Noir is a true expression of the long, cool growing season at Cortada Alta. Its intriguing nose of wild sage, black cherries, raspberry, applewood, ground coffee, and toasty oak draws you into the glass. Vibrant acidity enlivens notes of Bing cherry and raspberry pepper jelly on the fruity palate. Hints of cocoa and baking spices accent the bright, structured mid palate and transcend to a long, seamless finish.”

My Notes: We found this wine to be an excellent expression of Pinot Noir – very tasty.

© Decanting Monterey 2023


Zenaida Cellars Zinfandel on a Sunny Afternoon!

On a random Monday in May, my sometimes-neighbors invited me over for a glass of wine.  They let me choose which wine to open and I chose the Zinfandel with the highest alcohol content.  Yes, that was my decision criteria! I am a Zinfandel girl, but I don’t get much of that in Monterey County. It was the perfect selection for a sunny patio wine tasting.

About Zenaida Cellars: “The home vineyard is located in the Templeton Gap area, west of Paso Robles, at the base of the Santa Lucia Coastal Range. The 30-acre property consists of 22 acres of vineyard that is farmed utilizing sustainable practices. The winery occupies the original homestead of the property, dating back over 100 years.

“Many of our vines were planted in the late 1980’s, with our first vintage appearing in 1998. In May of 2000, we officially opened the Zenaida Cellars Tasting Room. Our wines are made using only the highest quality fruit from our estate vineyard and our small group of Paso Robles AVA growers. The vines are meticulously preened and thinned to ensure even ripeness throughout…”

I have just one wine to present to you today. Winery notes come from Wine Folly’s Paso Guides, as linked below. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2019 Zenaida Cellars Zinfandel, Templeton Gap District, Paso Robles, 15.8% ABV, $45 (#992)

Winemaker’s Notes:

Growing Conditions:

“In keeping with Zenaida minimalist style, our micro produced, Estate grown Zinfandel, is made from our estate vineyard located in the Templeton Gap District. We utilize sustainable agriculture practices to produce wines that are predominantly fruit forward and express our unique west side terroir. In mid-summer the vines are “green thinned”. Green clusters are cut from the vine, leaving one cluster per shoot to promote even ripening and also to concentrate flavors in remaining cluster.”

Winemaking:

“At harvest, the fruit is hand sorted and de-stemmed directly into open top fermenters. After a 48 hour cold soak the fruit macerates slowly and evenly with twice daily manual punch downs and specifically timed de le stage over approximately 30 days. The wine is then aged for 15 months in select French oak barrels. Our Zinfandel is pushed to just this side of too far to reach its full potential. By avoiding the dried-out flavors of over-ripeness, we concentrate on the fresher fruit aspects that Zinfandel has to offer. The result is a wine deeply layered with dark fruits and wild berries.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 pts: “Stewed red-plum and fig aromas meet with minty liqueur, sarsaparilla and chaparral herbs on the nose of this bottling. The palate is loaded with flavors reminiscent of a hike through the regional hills, offering dried sage, dust and hot rocks, with a bit of dried cranberry as well.” — Matt Kettmann

My Review: Purple in the glass.  Rich plum on the nose. Dense palate of dark berries. A voluptuous wine. Reminds me why I truly like Zinfandel. May 2023

The Zenaida Tasting Room is located at 1550 Highway 46 West, Paso Robles, CA 93465. “Our tasting room is open daily from 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. Walk ins are always welcome! Reservations to taste can be made on the website using the RESERVATIONS tab at the top of the page. Tastings cost $25 per flight and are waived with a two-bottle purchase. If your group is larger than 6 guests, please call the winery to check on availability: 805-227-0382. For parties of 8 or more, there is a non-refundable $10 service fee per person.“

© Decanting Monterey 2023


Decanting Monterey Tells All: Introducing New Monterey Wines and Wine Regions in DC!

Last week, I had the opportunity to present Monterey wines to my old wine group one more time. It is always an honor to be asked back. I do this class about once a year and am always glad to see my old wine friends. What I didn’t expect was almost a full house!  There were a lot of new faces in the room – including my daughter and a few of her friends.

But – before I go on, Decanting Monterey has hit another milestone: 10,000 views! This is huge! I have each and every one of my readers to thank for this achievement. I appreciate you so much.

What do I look for in a local wine to present? First of all, quality – it has to be a very tasty, good quality wine.  But, right along with taste is its price. The wine budgets for these nonprofit classes are always tight.  As wine and shipping prices rise, these get harder and harder to pull off.  You see, I don’t want to present them grocery store wines. And I don’t just want to present good value wines. Rather, I like to present delicious wines from wineries I know directly.  I like the personal aspect of developing relationships and sharing stories.  And I like the challenge of the hunt to find the very best wines to fit the budget. This time, I presented two Gold Medal wines – the audience really loved that. And the fact that most of our local wineries will ship out of state is a plus – the audience can go directly to the winery and order more.

Our local wineries are always quite generous to me. They give me steep discounts on their wine (sometimes they donate wine, even!) in return for me giving their wines visibility to a new audience. I’m so grateful. Shipping was probably the biggest wildcard this year. It varied from a winery that could give me a deal ($30) on shipping to those who can’t catch a break (over $70!).  I considered checking out a big box store there to see what they carry, but that runs counter to my m.o.  I also keep the audience in mind: I don’t like presenting an expensive class, but the high attendance last week for the most expensive class I have presented to date shows I should worry less about this. 

I’m already starting to think how I will put together another class for them next year.  I am watching the sales and shipping bargains.  It is too soon and too hot to ship now, but the wheels are turning. Readers:  Got any recommendations??  Please comment!

THE CLASS ITSELF

I start these classes by ensuring everyone knows where Monterey County is – about 2 hours south of San Francisco and just north of the Paso Robles wine growing area.  I talk about the fact we are a cool wine growing region, thanks to the influence of the frigid and deep Monterey Bay.  I talk about the Thermal Rainbow® – our grapevines which expeirence high valley temperatures during the summer days are brought relief by the afternoon winds coming off the bay which both stress and cool the vines – with accompanying fog to keep them from getting too cold overnight.

I give them our stats, which I obtain from the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association website – my go-to website for everything Monterey wine. I also read the crop reports myself (funny, no one else in the room reads crop reports 😊).  I noted our grape-growing acreage has dropped a bit (perhaps from the wildfires?), dropping us to the 5th largest in the state, just behind Napa.  And that we remain the largest producer of Chardonnay in the U.S. and the largest producer of Pinot Noir in California. I mentioned the recent Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival event and highlighted how many of the wineries present were from outside the county (more to come on that event in the upcoming weeks). Some 50% of our grapes are purchased from outside the county.

I like to present wines from our different Monterey County American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).  For the first time I presented one from San Antonio Valley AVA, which gave me a great launching point on our wine growing origins starting in the 1770s with the Franciscan missionaries. And, from there, our history as to how we got to modern winemaking in the region.

In the last couple of years, I have added a section on climate change to my presentations.  We talk about the devastating impact of the wildfires in 2020, the heat spike just before harvest in 2022, and all that rain this past winter.  It’s real, folks.

I highlight the ease and affordability of coming to Monterey to taste wine.  Armed with our tasting room brochures provided by Kim Stemler of the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, I invite them all to visit.

In this class, I focused on three wine growing areas in the county: Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley, and one “technically” from Monterey. Much of the information below is distilled from the AVA website above.

I have presented Arroyo Seco AVA wines to them many times before, which literally means “dry riverbed.” With maps available on the tables, I was able to describe the steep, narrow gorge, where Bordeaux varietals prosper, opening out to the Salinas Valley floor, more appropriate for Burgundian varietals. Arroyo Seco experiences harsh weather conditions varying from warm days to windy, foggy and cold nights. I mostly enjoy the white wines from Arroyo Seco, but I have been pleasantly surprised by bold and big reds produced from grapes in the gorge as well as from the valley floor. In this class, I presented wines from Chesebro, Corral, and Shale Canyon – both from the valley floor and the gorge.

It was my pleasure to be able to bring them a wine from the San Antonio Valley AVA for the first time. Although it is one of the oldest wine growing areas in California, it is one of the youngest AVAs in Monterey County, established in 2006. A mere 25 miles north of Paso Robles, it is in the southern part of the county, nestled in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Range. It has great variance in elevation – from 580 to 2800 feet, and its soils are primarily gravelly loam and clay. Due to its warmer climate, it is an excellent growing area for full-bodied Rhône, Bordeaux, as well as Portuguese & Spanish, varietals.

The last wine growing area I presented was the Monterey AVA, in this case a bit of a catch-all.  As vintner Mark Bunter is quoted as saying, “In one of the many examples of AVA nonsense, this vineyard, a mile outside Carmel Valley Village, isn’t in the Carmel Valley AVA, although vineyards 10 miles away, in Cachagua valley, are. So legally it’s not Carmel Valley wine, it’s Monterey wine. Whatever.” A new Carmel Coast AVA is coming soon to capture this gap!

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE WINES!

In today’s post, I will showcase the 5 wines presented in my class. Winery notes come from their tasting sheets, the bottles, and/or their websites.  My notes are from my previous tastings of these wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

CHESEBRO: “With lots of 300 cases or less, and a penchant for offbeat, as well as mainstream varietals, Chesebro’s production may be small, but the effort is prolific. We are passionate about true varietal expression, as well as preserving the unique voice of each vineyard site, from soil to glass. All of our wines are made solely from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVA’s.

“This connection to every every aspect from vine to bottle allows us to keep our quality high and prices affordable. Our commitment to wines of distinction will be evident from your first visit to our casual and welcoming tasting room in beautiful Carmel Valley Village. Come find out what artisan wines, lovingly farmed and made by hand, truly taste like.”

2020 Chesebro Vermentino, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.1 ABV, $23 (#991)

Winery Notes: “A unique Italian (and French) white variety typically found in Corsica, Sardina and Liguira. Smooth and light on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. It is aromatically complex with citrus, herbal and often floral notes. Versatile and fresh it can be a great pairing with many lighter dishes such as poultry, fish, vegetables and fresh cheeses.”

My Notes: Straw in the glass. Perfume of apricot and citrus blossom on the nose. Crisp palate with apple and pear flavors with a slightly bitter grapefruit/lime twist on the finish. (March 2023)

CORRAL WINE CO: “Corral Wine Company is a production of Bell Family Vineyards. In 2017, in a barn in Corral de Tierra, California, we barreled our first batch of estate Pinot Noir. We’re still in that same barn, but we’ve made even more varietals from some of the best grapes on the Central Coast.”

2020 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.4% ABV, $28 (#943)

Winery Notes: Vibrant aromas of guava & grapefruit dominate with fresh cut hay, lemon blossom and wet stone. Racing acidity with a pleasant minerality.”

My Review: Golden and viscous in the glass. Grilled pineapple, citrus blossom and guava on the fragrant nose. Rich palate of tropical flavors, a touch of sweetness, with minerality on the finish – very nice. February 2023 (At the event itself, we experienced bottle variation. I have used this wine in other classes before with no issues. I have tasted this wine subsequent to this class and it was perfectly fine.)

SHALE CANYON WINES: Current production is ~1000+ cases/year. Arroyo Seco. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah & Mourvèdre. Making classic and unique blends, such as our current favorite ZSM: Zinfandel, Syrah & Mourvèdre.

2017 Shale Canyon Cabernet Franc, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.2% ABV, $35 (#948)

Winery Notes: “Best of Class and Best of Show for $31 to $50 range at the 2023 4th annual International Cabernet Franc Competition! Our 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc starts with aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral. A complex wine with flavors of dark cherry, dark berry and cassis. A finish of vanilla with a hint of leather and medium firm tannins.

“Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s top 20 most popular grape varieties. Recent DNA testing has proven it to be an ancestor to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère and Malbec. It is so popular that is has its own “wine” holiday, International Cabernet Day is celebrated August 30th.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. A sweet blackberry nose. Smooth and yummy palate of dark, lean fruit. Very balanced. This wine was a huge hit in the wine class, including my own daughter asking that we ship her a case! I’m working on it. March 2023

PIERCE RANCH VINEYARDS: “The story behind Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a love story of wine shared amongst friends and our beloved community. It starts in the iconic vineyards of southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation in the year 2000. There is a depth to the terrain that exposes the remarkable quality of the region. A small, family-owned affair, we bring a sentimental spirit to viniculture, to honoring the land, and to cultivating and harvesting the grapes in the late summer and fall. The romanticism of crush and the sweeping vineyards flows into our cozy tasting room. What began as a cottage house built in 1915 has become a space where our community meets in the magical garden and rustic indoor setting to taste the ambrosial wine with a unique focus on Portuguese and Spanish varieties. It’s a love story that never ends, poetry in a bottle that starts with respect of the land and the community by never using herbicides and only using native yeasts with minimal intervention. It is a dedication to the vines and attention to the grapes so they continue to thrive with the years.”

2017 Pierce Ranch Tempranillo, San Antonio Valley AVA, 13.1% ABV, $28 (#236)

Winery Notes: “Native of the Rioja, product of our Panhandle and Y Ranch Vineyard plantings. Received a Gold/Best Tempranillo award in Monterey County.”

My Review: Beautiful garnet in the glass with plum and violet notes.  Has come into its time: rich finish of dark fruit, coca cola, licorice and cassis. While not the biggest Tempranillo around, it is delicious and drinking very well. I should have presented this wine before the Cabernet Franc, as it was overshadowed by that huge wine. March 2023

BUNTER SPRING WINERY: “Bunter Spring Winery is a small family operated winery in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley.  We also have some production in Monterey.  Most vintages we make a few hundred cases of wine, mostly for ourselves, but also for sale to friends on our mailing list, and a few restaurants and wine shops.  Why make wine?  We just don’t care for many of the wines sold today. We make the kind of wine we want to drink: balanced, interesting, made with few or no additives, and low or no sulfite. We list all ingredients, the actual sulfite level, and the actual alcohol level on every label.  Incredibly, NO OTHER WINERY DOES THAT…”

2018 Spring “Pizza Wine,” Highlands Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.96% ABV, $24 (#757)65% Zinfandel, 35% Syrah

Winery Notes: “You can drink this with burgers, too, or with nothing at all, but it’s really good with pizza and spicy pasta.  Aged sixteen months in American oak barrels.  Ingredients: grapes, water, yeast, tartaric acid, sulfite.  Not filtered, not fined.  At bottling: total sulfite 52 ppm, residual sugar 0.3 g/l (dry).”

“In this vineyard, rows marked “Zinfandel” are promiscuously punctuated with Syrah and other varieties. Monterey is hardly a byword to Zin groupies, and the wine struck me as intensely fruit punchy but otherwise didn’t remind me much of Zinfandel, so I finished the job they started in the vineyard, and blended in more Syrah, to get a deeper, darker wine, with fuller body yet less alcohol. Yes, less alcohol. Believe it or not.” 16 months in once-used American oak barrels.

My Review: Very dark in color. Sweet dark fruit and perfume on the nose. Jammy dark berries and a touch of alcohol on the palate. This wine was favorably received by the class and is one of my favorites. It’s not as sophisticated as some of his other wines, but, as a ‘Zin groupie” living in Monterey, I appreciate it. I have presented this wine in 2 of my DC-area classes. June 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey

Out for a long walk with an out-of-town neighbor, we decided to stop into briefly at A Taste of Monterey, where my neighbor is a member. I’ve written previously about A Taste of Monterey here: https://decantingmonterey.com/a-taste-of-monterey-the-official-regional-wine-visitors-center/.

As I said in that post, A Taste of Monterey is a great place to start if you don’t know much about our local wines.  It calls itself ““The Official” Regional Wine Visitors’ Center.” They have an extensive wine shop in the front, plenty of tasting flights to choose from, and food pairings to accompany your tasting.  You will find wines from our established wineries, such as Pierce Ranch, Scheid, and Silvestri; as well as Kori Wines and Cru, all of which have their own local tasting rooms. In addition, you will find some micro producers who don’t have tasting rooms of their own. Plus they have huge picture windows with bayfront views – perfect for sighting otters or watching a sunset.

About Muirwood: “WINES CRAFTED WITH CARE FROM MONTEREY COUNTY’S RENOWNED ARROYO SECO VINEYARDS”

“The Zaninovich family has deep farming roots, spanning nearly a century. In the early 1970s, we were captivated by the raw beauty and exceptional potential of the undiscovered Arroyo Seco wine region in Monterey County. Today this area has emerged as one of California’s most celebrated wine-growing regions, and among the most breathtaking.

“We are inspired by the legacy of John Muir, who sought to preserve the wilderness for future generations. With four generations of California farming in harmony with nature, we have great respect for this land we call home. Like John Muir, we take a long-term perspective. We believe in nurturing the land so that it may bear fruit for generations to come.

“The Arroyo Seco is located southeast of the Monterey Bay in the valley adjacent to the Arroyo Seco Creek, we’re lucky to enjoy a unique combination of growing conditions and soils which create grapes with character and flavor. We get a richness and quality of grapes that you don’t find anywhere else.”

About Pareto Estate Wines: “The Pareto Principle, also called the 80/20 rule, states that 80% of the results come from 20% of the effort. This is true in the world of wine, where 80% of wine is consumed by 20% of the people. With Pareto’s Estate, we raise our glasses to those of us that take up the slack of others. Cheers to the 20%!

“The vineyards of Pareto’s Estate are located in Monterey County on California’s central coast. This area is known for having the longest growing season in California, lasting on average about two weeks longer than other regions.  We thank the early morning fogs and gusty afternoon winds for this fortunate phenomenon – it wreaks havoc on women’s hairdos but the grapes love it.

“We also pay homage to the awesome influence of the Monterey Bay, for without its plummeting depth of over 10,000 feet, the fog, chilly air and reliable breezes wouldn’t exist.  And without them, Monterey doesn’t win the prize for longest hang time.  And without longest hang time, the impeccable fruit that bursts with vibrant aromas and complex flavors would be….let’s not even go there.

“A few other facts you should know.  At Pareto’s Estate, our wines are 100% estate grown.  Estate grown means that the grapes are grown on our vineyards and are crushed each vintage at our winery.  Nobody else gets to touch them.  Nobody.  Yes, we’re control freaks.  Another tidbit is that our winery is a thing of beauty.  Built in 2005, it is state-of-the-art and absolutely gorgeous if you’re into that sort of thing, which we are.  One last factoid – our vineyards are 100% sustainably certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.  We love our vines and take care of them…”

About Comanche Cellars: “My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards.  Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!

“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!

“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”

Today I am presenting the 3 wines we tasted in March. We each selected a different flight – I chose the Rockin’ Reds Flight. The winery has since moved on with a different set of 3 reds for this flight. Winery notes come from the winery, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2019 Muirwood Merlot, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.5% ABV, $15 (#988)

Winery Notes: Winemaking: French & American oak aging, careful barrel selection & blending process. Vineyards/Fruit: Wiley Ranch “Twin Oaks” Block:  Elegant, balanced; Wiley Ranch “Vaquero” Block:  Ripe, rich. Flavor Profile: Dark plum and ripe berries, soft & smooth finish. Food Pairings: Pizza Margherita, Classic Meatloaf.

Wine Enthusiast – 88 points: Dark cherry and cedar aromas make for a familiar start to this bottling. Hearty dark fruits show on the palate as well, with splash of wood oil and a fairly fierce acidity. Matt Kettmann, October 2021

My Review: Almost purple in the glass. Plum on the dusty, mellow, pleasant nose. Perfume and grapes notes. Juicy palate of blackberry, blueberry. So smooth. Best of today’s wines. March 2023

2018 Pareto Estate Wines Eighty20 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $17 (#989)

Winery Notes: “NOSE blackberries, blueberries, plum, with notes of vanilla and mocha. PALATE medium-bodied, soft tannins, rich lingering fruit finish. VARIETAL Cabernet Sauvignon. WINE Cabernet Sauvignon from the southern Monterey region, just north of Paso Robles, benefits from long, warm days and cool nights as well as modest rainfall. The result is big, bright, fruit-driven wine with rich tannins and a long finish.”

My Review:  Dark ruby. Barnyard on the nose, with rose petal and light cherry notes. Palate of smooth fruits. Hints of barnyard, yet quite tasty. It opened up over the course of the tasting. March 2023

2020 Comanche Tempranillo, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, San Antonio Valley AVA, $34 (#989)

Winery Notes: This special Spanish grape creates a wine that is bold and spicy. Aged in 50% new American oak barrels, it brings aromas of dark cherry, smoked meats and a long satisfying finish.

My Review: Almost garnet/ruby in color. Tart cranberry and raspberry on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. I enjoyed this wine. March 2023

You can visit  A Taste of Monterey at 700 Cannery Row, Ste. KK, Monterey, CA – 93940. They are open Sunday-Thursday 12pm-6pm; Friday-Saturday 12pm-7pm. You can also buy the wines they carry on their website! Comanche’s tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street, Monterey, and is open Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, ​Sun 1-6 pm.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Beautiful Villa of San Martino: Wine Tasting in Tuscany Part 2

This is part 2 of my wine tasting experiences recent Road Scholar trip to Italy.  You can read the first one here.

As I mentioned last week, I had a few big takeaways: 1) There will be a lot of varietals in these wines with which I am not familiar, 2) the wines will reflect the vine’s origins, the local terroir, and the weather – we should not expect them to taste the same as American versions of the same varietals, and 3) there is a Strada del Vino e dell’Olio in the region that I learned about from our tour director and got to experience. The wineries we visited made both wine and olive oil.

Today’s writeup is about Fabbrica di San Martino, located on the property of an historic villa built by Count Lorenzo Sardi, just north of Lucca. We first toured the vineyard with Giuseppi Ferrua, who, with his wife Giovanna Tronci, runs San Martino – a luxury accommodation and producer of fine wine and olive oil. His online bio is a concise version of what he shared with us that day: “Restaurant manager for twenty-two years, I’ve always worked with great passion for food and wine. I do believe wine has the power to overcome any geographical boundary, touching one’s soul. Wine moves me, this is why in 1999 I began to produce mine. I truly believe in biodynamic farming, because every day I can see its results on the quality of the soil and our products. Our wines are the result of our work and love for nature. My Motto: How do you recognize a good wine? People smile when they taste it!” I sure hope we smiled, because we really liked his wines. You can read more about his approach to winemaking here.

As we overlooked the vineyards, Giuseppe stated very clearly that the wines should be an expression of the varietal, earth and weather. He talked about the influence of the marine climate and, as we recall, the clay and calcareous soil on his grapes. All his wines are made using only the natural yeast from the grapes. He also provided some interesting tips on winemaking, if my notes are correct:  Don’t prune in an ascending moon and seed in a descending moon. 

We then toured the ground floor of the historic villa, part of their home and property. On the property is also luxury accommodations in a converted farm house where groups or individuals can stay.  It is a lovely setting with beautiful views and a huge pool.

After our tour, we tasted 4 of his wines accompanied by a little cheese and bread.  This was the quintessential Tuscan wine tasting experience with excellent wines and instruction. Although San Martino wines are distributed in the US, we were glad we ordered a case of the wines shipped home – I have yet to find where they are available here. My bottom line: I would highly recommend San Martino as a must-do wine tasting experience if you are in the Pisa/Lucca region. 

About the Estate: “The history of many villas in Lucca is deeply rooted in agriculture as, since the Middle Ages, wealthy aristocrats have invested in land. The estates used to be organized around two independent elements: the main villa, with the garden and the groves; the farmhouses, the productive heart of the estate, where the various agricultural activities were carried out.

“La Fabbrica di San Martino is a splendid testimony of this past: the estate extends over 20 hectares. Vineyards, olive groves and forest, which surround a magnificent 18th century Villa. The manor house, built by Count Lorenzo Sardi in 1735, is based on the foundations of a rustic structure from the 1500’s. The Baroque Villa is considered one of the most important of the 18th century in Lucca.

“Our family, through different generations, has always tried to preserve the story of our estate and territory. Today, we work with the same respect for this tradition.”

Today I am presenting the 4 wines we tasted in April.  It was very difficult to find winery or any other tasting notes on these wines.  Small producer, with a long reach.  I am looking forward to sharing his wines with friends in the near future!

2022 San Martino Rosato, Costa Toscana IGT, 12.5% ABV, $20 (#984) Sangiovese

My Review: Strong reddish-pink in color, like a slightly brown, pale strawberry, watermelon or a Rainer cherry. Sweet floral, honey, and strawberry jam on the nose. Strawberry and watermelon on the palate.  Tasty. April 2023

2021 San Martino Bianco, Costa Toscana IGT, 12% ABV, $24 (#985) Vermentino, Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca

My Review:  Golden in the glass. Earthy nose, with rich earthy flavors on the palate. Pairs well with pecorino. Grew on me over time. We took some home to try later. April 2023

2021 San Martino Rosso, Costa Toscana IGT, 12% ABV, $23 (#986) 14 grapes

My Review: Candy red in the glass – like a pinot. Fresh aroma with cinnamon notes. Tasty blend with fruit flavors and a spicy finish. I liked this wine. We shipped some home. April 2023

2017 San Martino Colline Lucchesi Rosso Riserva, Colline Lucchesi DOC, 12.5% ABV, $26 (#987) Sangiovese + 3

My Review:  Garnet in the glass. Red fruit on the nose. Solid tannic structure. Favorite of the day. We purchased 3 vintages of this wine for shipping so we can do a vertical tasting with friends. Favorite wine of the weekend.  April 2023

Tasting San Martino Wines: “We think it is better to present our products here, in our estate, where customers and guests can see how we work every day. We believe this is the best way to promote our land, its unique history and tradition. On request, it is possible to book wine tasting. Giuseppe, who takes personal care of every step of the production, will guide you through a walk in the vineyard and the wine cellar; to conclude with a toast in the Villa.” Email: info@fabbricadisanmartino.it

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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