Another Chink in the Legacy of Monterey Wines

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THE STORY

I was eating my lunch at the kitchen table, reading the Carmel Pine Cone, as I typically do.  I opened the January 10^th edition to the real estate section and found this ad on page 42:

It’s an ad for a Bernardus Vineyard consisting of “32-acres of vines comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Petite Syrah and Merlot.The wines produced from the vineyard are consistently awarded 90+ scores for their quality and structure that will age.”

I just about fell out of my chair and immediately called out to my husband. This sounded like Bernardus’ Marinus Vineyard – from which their founder Ben Pon fulfilled his dream to make a Bordeaux-style wine right here in Carmel Valley (in Monterey County). I was devastated to read this news, as the Marinus and Marinus Signature blends made from these grapes, are my favorite Bernardus wines.  We have been long-time members of their Marinus club and have enjoyed their Marinus dinners over the past few years – my favorite event of the year.

At the most recent such dinner in 2024, which I wrote about in this post 2024 Bernardus Marinus Dinner – Nothing Short of Spectacular!, we heard for the first time the full, colorful history of the founding of this vineyard and the beginnings of the winery. It is quite a moving story. Knowing this news now and looking back on that dinner, I can see why the telling of those stories was so emotional for the winery staff as well. This must have been a difficult decision to make.

The Bernardus Marinus wines are quality, age-worthy wines.  I fear this marks the end of an era, but perhaps it is simply an expression of the trends in consumption and maybe even climate.  After all, even though we might feel like these wineries are providing us a service and we may be way too attached to wines from certain vineyards, winemaking at the end of the day is a business and wineries must follow the trends and the fruit to achieve their bottom lines.

THE SIGNS WERE THERE

We knew something was up when tons of the 2017 Marinus showed up at Costco for a fraction of their retail price (we bought as much as we could).  In addition, at the Marinus dinner, there was talk about no longer making a separate Marinus Bordeaux-style blend and just making the higher end Signature.  Now I understand why. Bernardus will still make a high-quality reserve Bordeaux-style blend, just not from that vineyard. But from where?  What fruit will match the quality and historical significance of their own estate vineyard?

And, while Bernardus was a key, early player in the Carmel Valley AVA, it is widely known for its “Monterey County” wines available nation-wide and its reputation has been soaring with its high-quality vineyard-designate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands. I have written about all their wines many times. You can find those posts by typing “Bernardus” in the Decanting Monterey search bar.  Those varietals are what Monterey County is more broadly known for.

I want to say up front in this post that I’m telling you this story off the top of my head – any errors are mine and mine alone – and do let me know if corrections need to be made. 

THINGS THEY BE A-CHANGING

We’ve seen so much change in our Monterey wineries and vineyards.  Often it is because the original owners have aged out or passed away and their heirs don’t want to continue to produce wine.  It’s sad. Because many of these vintners were the founders of winemaking in this region. We have seen Talbott and Hahn labels and winemaking taken over by Gallo Wines.  We saw Galante, which still produces wines, sell its vineyards and winery to newcomer Tira Nanza, who shows great promise.  We saw Joullian close and be put up for sale. The Massa Estate is also for sale – the Durney legacy vineyards of some of the most prized Cabernet Sauvignon fruit in Carmel Valley/Cachagua. Pierce Ranch Vineyards down in San Antonio Valley AVA closed its tasting room in 2023 and decided to focus on selling its fruit. And the Boekenoogen family recently chose to stop wine production, with Santa Lucia Highlands locals McIntyre Vineyards taking over its tasting room and inventory. And Manzoni has kept their vineyard, while selling its tasting room and winemaking to younger players. So much change. Most recently, and last I heard, we’ve seen a merger of newer players Seabold Cellars into San Benito’s Eden Rift.

Maintaining a quality vineyard is a hard job, with the threats of fire and drought around the corner.  In some of our conversations with vineyard owners, they have no interest in bottling their own juice, as it means lots of road time to market their product.  Our Monterey County grapes are much sought after by wineries outside of Monterey County.  Having the Santa Lucia Highlands designation on a bottle means something.  Carmel Valley is less widely known, but remains my favorite AVA within Monterey (oops, I’m not supposed to have favorites).

And then there is the overall downturn in wine consumption and climate change, affecting wineries across the globe.  Some vineyards are ripping out grapes or have left their fruit to rot on the vines.  We are at a critical juncture. As one local vintner put it, it’s the “ebb and flow” of the business.

NOW WHAT?

My first reaction about the sale of the Bernardus Marinus Vineyard was pure incredulity.  I kind of took it personally. I did communicate with the winery and I know what a tough decision this was for them. I know they will do their best to continue to produce a high-quality Bourdeaux-style blend to keep their consumers like me happy. I personally hope they can find the fruit from the Carmel Valley AVA, but I might be asking for too much.

Then I started to have crazy thoughts – like how we could pull together a consortium of wine aficionados/investors and vineyard/winemaking experts to purchase this prize property.  It’s fun to think about, but that’s a long stretch. It would be WORK. And I’ve already got a good gig – I’m retired. And as my good friend and Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member says, “The best way to make a small fortune (in winemaking) is to start with a large fortune.”  Nope, I checked…I don’t have one.

So, all I am left with is hope.  Hope that someone who cares about those quality grapevines will buy the vineyard and help preserve Ben Pon’s legacy of making a quality Bordeaux-style blend from Carmel Valley. 

That’s my think piece for today. I’ve gotten over myself. Not a single wine review in today’s post. See, anything is possible.

Let’s all raise a toast to the Marinus Vineyard and Ben Pon’s legacy!

© Decanting Monterey 2025

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