Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events. This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco. That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases. While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.
I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines. There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!
I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)
Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.
“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.
“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020
Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot
Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.
“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.
“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”
My Review: Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose. Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red. September 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)
Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard: Super bright. Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley. Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.
“Tasting Notes: Amazingly balanced! Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple. Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”
My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022
2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip.
“Tasting Notes: Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”
My Review: Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass. Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022
2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.
“Tasting Notes: The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose. A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty. As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900)
Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.
“Tasting Notes: Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf. The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon. This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes. Good structure. A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)
Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
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