When my Spring Club Release became available for pickup, I contacted the I Brand tasting room to find a day I could stop by for a quiet, isolated outdoor tasting to taste their new releases. In addition to tasting those wines in early March, we have opened several other Ian Brand wines at home in 2021. I’ll be presenting all of them in 3 separate posts by label: La Marea, Le P’tit Paysan, and I. Brand & Family. Today’s post is about three La Marea wines, Ian Brand’s label for his Spanish-inspired wines.
More About La Marea from the Winery: “La Marea, (Spanish for “The Tide”), made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.”
2020 La Marea Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 11.9% ABV, $24 (#269*)
“The Kristy Vineyard grows on the western bench over the Salinas River on the broken sediment of ancient sea beds where it is exposed to the consistent cooling winds off the Monterey Bay. Kristy is a special because Albariño in the vineyard reaches full phenological ripeness at low potential alcohol and bright natural acidity later in the season. Usually picked between 20-22 Brix with a sub 3 PH and nearly 9 g/L TA. Whole cluster pressed and cold fermented to preserve aromatics and freshness. Secondary fermentation is arrested.” La Marea
My Review: Pale yellow in color, fragrant Gardenia, grapefruit and lemon curd on the nose. Vibrant acidity on the flavorful palate of sweet grapefruit, with a lingering lemony finish. March 2021
2016 La Marea Grenache Spur Ranch, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $20? (#270*)
“Spur Ranch Vineyard is part of an 11,000 acre ranch located at a 1000 foot elevation with a fifteen degree south facing slope on the south side of Chalone peak. The soils are high-calcareous content clay over the same mica shist substrate that dominates the Chalone appellation. Fermented whole berry with a small percentage of whole cluster with both native and selected yeast strains. Aged in 100% neutral barrels for 11 months. 135 cs produced.” La Marea
Winery Tasting Notes: “Beautiful and bright representation. Profile firmly representative of its unique micro-climate terroir. Cooler region, allows peak levels of ripeness, while also obtaining low alcohol levels. Freshness, purity of fruit and an elegant, silky style. Endless layers of red fruits fill the nose. On the palate, acid leads, allowing bright red fruits, strawberries, cherries and raspberries to pop with a beam of minerality. Green anise and fennel appear, while the red fruits maintain palate saturation.” 124 cases produced.
My Review: Translucent light cherry in color. Light cherry on the nose, a slight bit of vinegar. Very light on the palate, refreshing, almost as light as a rosé! After opening up, flavors became a little more complex. January 2021
2018 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13.6% ABV, $30* (#271*)
The grapes for this “Central Coast” wine were sourced from San Benito, Monterey, and Santa Clara Counties.
Winery Tasting Notes: A traditional Spanish Grenache – “red plums, damp earth, baking spice, subtle complexity”
My Review: Bright, transluscent cherry. Sweet raspberry on the nose, very smooth red currant on the palate, lingering light licorice flavors. March 2021
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
A recent wine class theme was Lodi. I had just received my first shipment of Carol Shelton wines, including a 2018 Lodi Zinfandel! Bingo! But then I was looking at the wine selections at Grove Market right here in PG and found this Boneshaker Zinfandel. As I did my research, I quickly learned this label is part of the Hahn Family of wines! A Lodi wine from a Monterey winemaker! I decided to open this one for our class.
Hahn’s Tasting Room on the River Road Wine Trail
From Hahn’s Boneshaker Trade Page: “Older vines, make bolder Zinfandels. Bruella Vineyard and Fathom Ranch are owned by Jason and Kimberly Eells, whose multi-generational family has sold grapes to Hahn Family Wines for over 20 years. These vineyards produce exceptional grapes with a character only found in California, yirlding Zinfandel as rich and spicy as their history.”
2018 Boneshaker Old Vine Zinfandel, Mokelumne River AVA, Lodi, 15% ABV, $20 (#265*)
I was surprised to learn Boneshaker is a Hahn Family label!
About the Boneshaker from Hahn: “The quintessential Lodi Zin, Boneshaker is unapologetically big and attractively approachable. The wine’s rich, intense profile comes from gnarled, 50+ year old vines that produce fewer clusters and small berries with highly concentrated flavor and character that offer intense dark fruits, vanilla and spice in the glass.”
Winemaker’s Notes (same link above): “A vibrant ruby red in color in the glass, this 2018 Zinfandel opens with aromas of cherry, toasted oak, a hint of leather and spice notes. On the palate, perfectly ripe red berry fruit flavors are accompanied by a seamless structure, gentle lingering spice flavors, and toasty finish.” 18,000 cases produced.
My Review: Inky ruby in the glass. A perfumey dark cherry on the nose with dark berries, plum and spice on the palate. Let this one open up to experience its full richness. March 2021
I purchased this for $19.50 at Grove Market. You can find it on the web for less quite easily at places including Total Wine – but I didn’t have to pay shipping!
Hahn Tasting Rooms are located a their estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands, as well as in Carmel Plaza. They are open by reservation only – you can find more information here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I introduced you to Boëté in August here: https://decantingmonterey.com/boete-exceptional-cabernet-franc-from-carmel-valley/. Please take a peek at that link for more about the winery. Since that post, there have been some new releases, including their 2018 Cheval Rouge, a red blend. I also noticed the release of a 2018 single varietal Merlot, something I don’t recall seeing before – picked one up to try for a future post!
When Jana Saunders advertised a couple of weeks ago that they were doing a painting and sipping virtual event, I signed right up. Here was the teaser: “Boëté Winery is teaming up with the talented KB of KB Studio and Gallery in hosting a Virtual Pre Valentine’s Paint and Sip. This is not your normal paint & sip as you will be learning to paint with a palate knife to create a uniquely one of a kind abstract painting while enjoying Boete’s newest Cheval Rouge!” I didn’t need to be asked twice. I am not an artist, but my daughter gave me the courage to put paint on canvas over the holidays – such a nice break from all the news!
Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points. “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020
My Review: Dense deep ruby in the glass, luscious dark berry on the nose, smooth rich flavors on the palate. Deep juicy cherry and dark berries, and a touch of cedar anise on the finish. This is an incredibly delicious wine. November 2020
From Boëté: “A classic garnet color invites you into an elegantly expressed vintage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a pinch of Merlot. This medium body vibrant wine elevates the palate with flavors of cherry jam, vanilla and hints of chocolate. A youthful wine that will only get better with time.” This wine was released in the Fall of 2020.
My Review: Dense deep ruby in the glass, luscious dark berry on the nose, smooth rich flavors on the palate. Deep juicy cherry and dark berries, and a touch of cedar and anise on the finish. This is an incredibly delicious wine. One of my favorites. November 2020
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I have presented Ian Brand’s wines to you in 4 previous posts (you can find them all with a simple search on “Ian Brand”) including one specifically on a P’tit Paysan wine here: https://decantingmonterey.com/ptit-paysan-creates-a-2019-zabala-vineyard-sauvignon-blanc/. We’ve tasted quite a few over the many months of the Pandemic and have consolidated 5 of them here! The P’tit Paysan wines are the ones that first made us fans of Ian’s wines – affordable, quality wines with amusing labels drawn by his nephew!
The I Brand & Family tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for wine sales and pick-ups!
About P’tit Paysan from K&L Wine Merchants : “Winemaker Ian Brand moved to California to pursue a life of surfing, but quickly got bitten by the wine bug. He is a bit of a rebel, and the purpose of the P’tit Paysan project is to present simple, unpretentious “country” wines. In reality these simple wines come from some unique vineyard sites that Ian has sniffed out in the backcountry of Monterey and the surrounding area. Most of these vineyards exhibit very poor soils, in harsh conditions just on the edge of farmlands. The struggle these vines must face makes for intense fruit.” Because of he sources grapes from across the region, many of his wines carry the “Central Coast” label. I have 5 of his Le P’tit Paysan wines to present to you today.
2018 Le P’tit Paysan Rosé Pierre’s Pirouette, Central Coast, 12.4% ABV, ~$20 (#25*)
It was a rare summery day, reaching over 70 degrees in our little coastal town where temperatures often hover in the 55-65 degrees range. We spent a good chunk of the afternoon enjoying the backyard, eating lunch on the patio, swimming and even sunbathing. It felt like we were at a resort and it called for a “pool wine.” But we got something MUCH better!
Winemaker’s Notes from wine.com: “Made from Grenache and Mourvédre grown in Spur Ranch’s limestone-rich clays and Grenache and Cinsault from the granitic bluffs above the Arroyo Seco River. Picked below 22 brix, with bright natural acidity. Fermented in several lots with some native and some cultured yeasts.” Because grapes are sourced from Monterey County’s Chalone and Arroyo Seco AVAs, this wine earns the “Central Coast” label. 61% Mourvèdre, 34% Grenache, 5% Cinsault
wine.com Review – 92 points: “It seems lately that Rosés aka Pink Wines are a dime a dozen. The omnipresence has my palate spinning. Fortunately, a few folks are producing some astonishingly beautiful efforts. The 2018 Le P’tit Paysan Rosé is one of the marketplace’s best efforts. TASTING NOTES: This is a pert little gem with a refreshingly delicious and crisp aftertaste. Its aromas and flavors of bright red fruit fly throughout the wine. Pair it with a chicken salad with slivers of strawberries and toasted sesame seeds.” Wilfred Wong March 2019
My Review: I presented an earlier vintage of this wine to the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar – and this one would be equally worthy – perhaps my favorite rosé of the vintage from the region. It has a fragrant bouquet of rose and gardenia. Keeping sugars in check, this wine is refreshing and balanced, pleasant and crisp – not sweet and not too dry. A bit of bitters on the finish. This is a keeper – highly recommend. April 2020
2019 Le P’tit Paysan Rosé Pierre’s Pirouette, Central Coast, 12.4% ABV, ~$20 (#33*)
No, no, the label was fine. This bottle spent time in an ice bucket!
We had a warm day – one of the warmest and sunniest this spring – short sleeves and sleeveless tops. And a virtual happy hour with our favorite East Coast friends. This called for another rosé! I told my good friend Randy that I needed his nose for my wine blog and he offered to virtually smell the wine – we held the glass of wine near our computer camera – he picked up strawberry and watermelon. Yeah, no, but it was good for a laugh. Yes, this is what it has come to.
Winemaker Notes from wine.com : “The Mourvedre from the Le P’tit Paysan Rose is from two vineyards, one in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains west of Gilroy (rocky, alluvial soils), the other is Spur Ranch in San Benito (limestone). The Grenache is from Arroyo Seco (granite), as is the Cinsault. Monterey/San Benito/Santa Clara Counties.” 56% Mourvèdre, 26% Grenache, 18% Cinsault
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points : “Fresh aromas of rose petal, watermelon, bubblegum and squeezed lime show on the nose of this pink blend of 56% Mourvèdre, 26% Grenache and 18% Cinsault. There’s a great sizzle to the sip, where a crushed seashell minerality wraps up flavors of light orange and delicate strawberry.” Matt Kettmann September 2020
My Review: This newly-released 2019 Le P’tit Paysan Rosé has a lovely pale peach, pink color. It is higher in Cinsault than the previous vintage, with peach and pineapple on the nose. It is crisp and light, with the Mourvèdre shining through. Very enjoyable. I might prefer the 2018, but would have to try them side by side to know for sure. April 2020
2016 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast, 13.4% ABV, $25* (#14*)
According to www.sommselect.com, the P’tit Paysan 2016 is California Cabernet “at its most balanced, bursting with finesse and freshness, which instantly makes it eye candy for lovers of classic Bordeaux… You will not find another California Cabernet that delivers this much at such a low price, so don’t miss out…The grapes underwent a long, cool, whole-berry fermentation in separate lots before blending and aging for one year in neutral French barrels. The wine was bottled without filtration.” 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot
Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Warm aromas of baked red cherry and caramel grow more complex due to a gravelly minerality and hints of peppercorns on the nose of this bottling by Ian Brand. The palate leads with oregano and pepper, those spices overwhelming the fruit, and the rocky minerality continues, leading into a cocoa-laced finish. It is a lithe and lively style of Cab.” Matt Kettmann June 2018
Good luck finding any. But, if you do, drink now through 2026. Heck, drink now. April 2020
2016 Le P’tit Paysan Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 13.17% ABV, $22 (#37*)
Another beautiful day in isolation – and another Ian Brand Le P’tit Paysan wine. We like these wines as every day drinking – such affordable, high quality, food wines. We have been particularly fond of his Rhône blend “Le P’tit Pape” over the years. As with the red blends from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this wine is based on Rhône varietals and, primarily, Grenache. This was the wine which originally drew us to Ian Brand’s wines – our first favorite of his many wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Ian Brand’s flagship bottling just keeps getting better, yet stays reasonably priced. Light in the glass, this blend of 65% Grenache, 26% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre and 2% Counoise offers lovely aromas of strawberry, red plum, white pepper, wild tomato and forest floor. It’s taut in texture on the sip, holding cranberry and strawberry flavors in check, as dried sagebrush carries through the finish.” Matt Kettmann March 2019
My Review: The 2016 Le P’tit Pape appears table grape red in the glass, light-to-medium bodied with raspberry and cherry, very smooth and refreshing. May 2020
Winemaker Notes: “Cherry blossoms, dusty road, red plums, herb de Provence. Rosewater and red cherry on the palate, nimble with medium body. Grippy finish with firm Grenache tannins and hints of olive and sagebrush.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Clean raspberry and strawberry aromas are lifted by a pinch of pepper and fresh marjoram on the nose of this blend of 57% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 3% Counoise. Tart cranberry and strawberry flavors are quite fresh on the palate, but there are also savory hints of meat and white pepper.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020
My Review: Transluscent medium red with a berry nose. Cherry on the palate, followed by cassis, currant and tobacco on the finish. This wine is representative of how creative sourcing can lead to a very nice, everyday wine at a great value. We recently tasted this wine again – it was a enjoyable break from the super big reds we mostly drink. I appreciated it so much! September 2020
I Brand is closed for tastings due to the Stay-at-Home order but open for wine pickups – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM to order wines. I just heard the 2019 rose is on sale – so contact the winery quickly if you want to get some before it sells out!
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I first became aware of Samuel Louis Smith wines when he started getting some pretty fine reviews from Vinous and Wine Enthusiast – consistently in the mid-90’s! Like many of his contemporaries, he owns no vineyards himself but sources his grapes from regions and vineyards that allow him to “explore some other compelling, under-the-radar terroirs where my varietals shine” with a focus on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. K&L Wine Merchants did an interview with Samuel Louis Smith back in 2019 that provides the whole history of how Sam got into the wine business. https://onthetrail.klwines.com/on-the-trail-blog/2019/5/24/keep-an-eye-on-this-guy-winemaker-samuel-louis-smith .
From the SLS website, used with Sam’s permission
About the winery: “Samuel Louis Smith functions as a micro-négociant based in Salinas, California. Organic viticulture, mountainous sites, and minimal intervention in the cellar are tenets of the brand. SLS presents a compelling cross-section of the Central Coast, focusing on Sta. Rita Hills chardonnay, Monterey pinot noir, and Santa Cruz Mountains cool-climate syrah. The wines are made in a neoclassical style where light handling, wild fermentations, and stem inclusion in the reds create wines of place and purity, aroma and structure.
“In the future, the core of SLS will be made with dirty fingernails and estate grown grapes. For now, Sam is dedicated to sourcing fruit from the most distinctive honestly- and sustainably-farmed vineyards. He is also head winemaker at the historic Morgan Winery, a pioneer of organic viticulture and traditional winemaking in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.”
About Sam (from link above): “Sam studied Economics, French, and Spanish at UC Santa Barbara. A nagging desire for wine knowledge and proximity to good surf led Sam to Bordeaux- the perfect place to spend a semester abroad. Coinciding with the iconic vintage of 2009, it opened his eyes to the world of haute cuisine and fine wine. Though somewhat reticent and cold, Sam’s Bordelaise host family ate and drank quite well; their pairing of confit de canard with ’89 Margaux on a cold Sunday afternoon in November still serves as an epiphanous moment for him.
“Wine and everything it embodies are still the most cerebral and inspiring experience for Sam. Making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley and cool-climate syrah in the Northern Rhône, and cutting his teeth as assistant winemaker for Margerum Wine Company gave him the opportunities to find where his palate and California’s cool, mountainous Central Coast terroir converge.”
About the 2018 Vintage: “The vintage commenced with precipitation much below average, though reservoirs remained full through the season after a very wet 2017. January and February were warm, resulting in premature budbreak in select parcels, increasing worries of frost as nighttime temperatures dipped below freezing on February 23rd and 24th. Luckily, no harm was done, and the following months saw temperatures at, and often below, seasonal averages. 2018 was a classically cool growing season on the Central Coast- an epic year for SLS’s cool climate varietals.”
2018 Samuel Louis Smith Syrah Sandstone Terrace, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.9% AVA, $34 (#215*)
An elegant label for an elegant wine!
About the 2018 Syrah from the Samuel Louis Smith website: “A 50/50 blend of two personalities of syrah: the extremely cool-climate and coastal Gali vineyard, and the warmer, high elevation Zayante vineyard. These components come together to exude the spicy, floral, and feminine side of syrah.
“Gali is located in the Corralitos sub-district of the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. At the low elevation of 400 feet and approximately six miles from the ocean, this is one of the coolest sites in our lineup. Soils are clay loam weathered from sandstone and shale, formed on ancient submarine terraces. Though not fully organic, no herbicides are used and watering is quite minimal.
Photos of the Gali (l) and Zayante (r) Vineyards, used with permission from Sam!
“Zayante sits at 1,200 feet on the ocean side of the central Santa Cruz Montains, and was planted in 1988 by Greg Nolton. Own-rooted, dry-farmed, and certified organic, this is a true mountain site. Soils are Lompico clay loam- material that was weathered from sandstone, shale, conglomerate, and granodiorite.”
I asked Sam about the low alcohol in this wine, asking if it was the influence of his time in France to make a more elegant, food wine. He responded that his time in France “…bolstered my affinity for elegant wines that go well with food, and that are not fatiguing. I love wines that are poised, with moderate alcohol, and great acid and structure. Most of the vineyards I work with are organic or in conversion, and have lower yields, which means better flavor development at lower brix, permitting early harvesting for low alcohol and good flavor concentration…”
Winemaker’s Notes: “Deep magenta and medium bodied. Aromas of red and purple fruits, rose petal, and dried basil give way to savory flavors of black fruits, cured meat, and black pepper. Elegant tannins and bright acidity add persistence and length.”
My Review: Very deep color, vanilla blackberries and spice on the nose. Smooth on the palate with blueberry and cedar flavors, a bit acidic, with a touch of spice and tobacco on the finish. This wine possesses a certain elegance and would be great with a meal. A very pleasant Syrah. December 2020
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I hope you enjoyed your holidays and tried some new wines or revisited familiar favorites. I would love to hear from you: Which Central Coast wines did you open over the holidays and how were they? Please comment below!
Our traditional dinner table had far fewer place settings than usual. We also experienced new ways to celebrate – socially distant around a beautiful, warm fire on a chilly Monterey Bay night.
We enjoyed wines from around the world – France, Italy, Washington, Napa, Carmel Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains and Paso Robles.
Here are the Central Coast wines we tasted over the holidays (reviews to come!):
In addition to some of our favorite big reds from Carmel Valley, we branched out and tried some new brands from Paso Robles and the Santa Cruz Mountains!
2011 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley, with our Christmas dinner
2018 Samuel Louis Smith Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains
2007 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley on New Year’s Eve
2006 Bear Cave Cellars Reserve Syrah, Paso Robles, also on New Year’s Eve
And, once again, which Central Coast wines did you open over the holidays – what did you think of them? I look forward to hearing from you!
A friend of mine put me in touch with the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society. How wonderful to meet (virtually) like-minded wine aficionados! In August, they hosted a virtual wine tasting of Daou wines. It was a great event, presented by Daniel Daou himself and showcasing three of their wines.
Three terrific DAOU wines presented by Daniel Daou!
About Daniel Daou: “Daniel’s winemaking vision had one very singular focus-creating the highest possible quality Cabernet and Bordeaux wines. This mission had a critical ingredient-the Calcareous Clay soils of Bordeaux. For Daniel, there is no greater truth than the fact that great wine is made in the vineyard. His extreme focus on every detail-from the proper soil, to his proprietary planting structure that creates “total vine balance” his exacting, almost extreme, winegrowing philosophy allows for the grapes to arrive to the winery in the perfect condition to create wines that continue to rival the best in the world…Daniel was one of the first to bring Cabernet clones to Paso Robles that deliver the highest possible quality-clones from the iconic regions of the world such as Bordeaux and Napa.”
A high-end Sauvignon Blanc made in a unique process.
Winemaker Notes: “The 2019 DAOU Estate Sauvignon Blanc exemplifies how this classic Bordeaux variety excels on DAOU Mountain. The chalky soils of DAOU Mountain give this wine loads of minerality on the palate while concentrated aromas of stone fruits, guava, kiwi and citrus blossom travel through the glass to enrich your nose. A touch of Sémillon works in harmony with the Sauvignon Blanc, adding complexity and dimension. Full-bodied yet balanced, this wine provides for a complete experience with an impressively long finish.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Review – 92 Points: “The 2019 Sauvignon Blanc contains 19% Sémillon and was aged seven months in 50% new French oak. The nose opens with poached pears scents accented by beeswax, lychee, grapefruit and flowers. The medium-bodied palate has a great balance of bright fruit character and phenolic texture, and it finishes with good freshness and length.” Erin Brooks, October 2020
My Review: Pale in color (leaning toward green) with pear on the nose. Pear and bitter grapefruit on the palate with a tart finish. This is a pretty complex Sauvignon Blanc, a product of a unique process which Daniel Daou described in some detail to the group. It is not your every day Sauvignon Blanc. August 2020
A terrific example of a fine, high quality Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon.
Winemaker Notes: “The 2018 DAOU Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a shining example of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. This wine’s magnificent nose is quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon, offering scents of dark chocolate, licorice, blackberries and cured meats with a touch of cedar. The palate delivers an explosion of fresh, dark berry fruits. Flavors of blackberry, juicy black cherry, cassis and cocoa are underscored by lovely accents of blueberry and raspberry. A silky palate is nicely integrated with hints of toasty oak, graphite, mineral and forest floor. Ripe fruits and exotic spices linger on a generous, full-bodied finish that promises excellent age-worthiness.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Review – 91-93 Points: “The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. It is still in barrel and will age about 18 months in 50% new French oak. The nose opens with tar, cassis and gentle blue fruit touches with notes of dried herbs, milk chocolate and coffee beans. The medium to full-bodied palate is lushly fruited but very fresh, with lifted herbal character, bright freshness and a firm but very finely grained structure, finishing long.” Erin Brooks, October 2020
My Review: Garnet in color, almost purple. Dark jammy fruit on the nose. Very smooth and juicy, balanced and pleasant. August 2020
2017 DAOU Bodyguard, Paso Robles AVA, 14.7% ABV, $40 (#199*)
Winemaker Notes (previously captured from their website): “The 2017 DAOU Bodyguard is a sleek yet powerful blend of Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah, displaying both opulence and structure. The 2017 vintage presents fragrant fruit aromas of blackberry, raspberry, currant and crème de cassis. Notes of cocoa, coffee, dark chocolate, licorice and sweet cherry pipe tobacco are rounded out with whispers of truffle, toffee, mocha and menthol. A juicy, fleshy palate offers bright, generous flavors of cherry, cranberry, strawberry and blueberry tinged with black raspberry and tamarind—all supported by underlying accents of dusty leather, pencil shavings, cigar box and crushed herbs. An elegantly styled and beautifully structured finish reverberates with focused energy, vibrant berry fruit and ripe, polished tannins.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 Points: “In yet another stylishly packaged and powerful blend from the Daou brothers, this bottling combines hearty coffee, kirsch and pumice aromas with toasty vanilla and caramel on the nose. The tannic structure is soft and polished yet firm enough to uphold black-cherry, toffee and caramel flavors, which are bolstered by a black-rock minerality that lingers in the background.” Matt Kettmann, March 2020
My Review: Inky purple in color, bold flavors on the palate – really opened up into a delicious, big wine in the style I like. This is a great combination of 60% Petite Verdot and 40% Petite Sirah. August 2020
You can buy DAOU wines from their website or from retailers primarily in California and New York, with a few retailers in Michigan and Florida. They have special holiday items and packages here. DAOU is open for wine tasting with food pairings – learn more and reserve your spot here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
One of my local friends says she loves the Hahn GSM, which she buys at our local market, Andronico’s. We like Hahn wines and featured their SLH Pinot Noir in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class. While we tend to avoid the widely-marketed, mass-produced wines, I wanted to give this one a try. This is another Central Coast-designated wine.
Their Estate tasting room is located in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands.
From www.hahnwines.com : “Our founder, Nicky Hahn, grew up speaking German. In his native language, the word ‘Hahn’ means rooster, which is why a depiction of this bird has always graced the label of our Hahn wines. From the beginning, Nicky strove to produce exceptional varietal wines from Monterey County where Hahn’s vineyards and winery are located. (My note: The Hahns played a key role in getting the SLH AVA established in 1991.)
“This assemblage of classically-styled varietal wines—along with our GSM Rhone-inspired blend—are now under the care of second-generation vintner Philip Hahn, who proudly carries on his father’s legacy. Vintage after vintage, we style our Hahn wines to be fruit-forward, balanced and supple. Our vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco AVAs are a significant source of fruit for these wines.”
Hahn 2018 GSM, Central Coast, 14.5% ABV, $15* (#43)
A Wine Enthusiast Top Best Buy in 2020!
About the GSM from Hahn Wines: “Inspired by the Rhône blends of Southern France, our GSM combines the character of each component into rich layers of flavors and textures. Bright, fruity Grenache grown in Arroyo Seco contributes raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavors, while Syrah from the Santa Lucia Highlands lends color, tannins and hints of blueberry and black pepper. A small amount of Mourvèdre contributes richness to the mid-palate and lengthens the dry finish.”
Winemaker’s Notes (same link above): “Enticing aromas of strawberry, black cherry, white pepper and cinnamon. On the palate, notes of raspberry, a hint of cinnamon spice, along with strawberry and black cherry. Finishing with a smooth and luscious mouthfeel.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 90 Points and #43 of Top 100 Best Buys in 2020: “Aromas of dark red berry and crumpled hibiscus make for a delicious entry to the nose of this blend of 69% Grenache, 29% Syrah and 2% Mourvèdre. The palate is lively in acidity and texturally engaging, carrying flavors of dark berry, licorice and star anise.” Matt Kettmann, 11/2020
My Review: Deep red in color, with a mellow berry and currant on the nose. Smooth cherry and cedar on the palate, with a slightly leathery, tobacco finish. This opened up to be a very drinkable and enjoyable wine. It is such a great value and taste – hard to believe such a great wine came from my grocery store.
I purchased this for $11 at Andronico’s. You can find some Hahn wines at Pearson’s in Washington DC.
Hahn Tasting Rooms are located a their estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands, as well as in Carmel Plaza. They are open by reservation only – you can find more information here.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
One of the things Ian Brand is known for is sourcing grapes wherever he can find them to create his wines. In this blog post, I am reviewing 3 of their I. Brand & Family wines – each from a different county in the Central Coast. This post prepares us for our next move into Central Coast-labeled wines.
2018 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#86*)
This unique 2018 Pinot Gris is lovely in color and flavors.
We pulled this wine out in June for a farewell for our daughter as she headed off on another adventure. I had looked at this bottle earlier in the week for a Rosé class, but there was nothing on it to say it was one. Except the wax over the cork was orange instead of yellow, as is the case in Ian Brand’s whites. And that is because Pinot Gris will naturally give you an orange wine. Who knew?
From grapelive.com – 92 points: “…Coming from the low yielding terraces at Eden Rift in Cienega Valley, not far from Calera in San Benito County, Brand’s Pinot Gris is wonderfully textural and charming on the palate with juicy peach, red apple skin, citrus and passion fruit leading the way along with a touch of mineral, mountain herb, orange zest, clove, a hint of apple better and wet chalk…”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 points: “With dynamic and complex expressions like this, it’s a wonder why people started stripping the naturally pink hue that Pinot Gris provides. The pinkish orange wine delivers aromas of strawberry sorbet and rosebuds and then opens onto a palate of light raspberry and watermelon. There is ample tannic tension as well.” Matt Kettmann 12/2019
My Review: Bellini pink, peach 🍑 in color, sweet peach on the nose, a balance of sweet and tart mid palate, with a refreshing finish. September 2020
2016 I. Brand & Family Old Vine Grenache, Besson Vineyard, Santa Clara AVA, 14.6% ABV, $42 (#4*)
2016 Old Vines Grenache.
Made from grapes from 100-year old vines, this wine spent about 20 months in 20% new wood barrels, making this a bigger than average Grenache.
My Review: The 2016 Old Vines Grenache is a beautiful cherry red color with bright fruit on nose and palate. Very balanced and tasty, with lingering flavors on the palate. This was more enjoyable on the second day. Enjoy now or hold for a bit.
2016 I. Brand & Family Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.7% ABV, $42 (#80*)
2016 Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch.
I. Brand & Family makes 2 Cabernet Francs: a Chinon-style one from Paicines, which I presented at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar, and this one – Bates Ranch – a richer, Bordeaux-style wine from the Santa Cruz Mountains. They are both terrific wines, yet I much prefer the style of the Bates Ranch.
From I. Brand via www.unionsquarewines.com: “In our opinion, Bates Ranch is the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The other two, Monte Bello and Mt. Eden, are among the most revered vineyards in California. We first became aware of Bates Ranch through the amazing, and amazingly ageworthy, 70s and 80s bottlings from classic Santa Cruz Mountain produces like Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards and Ahlgren Vineyards. Bates Ranch is located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road. We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet France planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Fermented whole berry with native yeasts and a three week maceration. Aged in a neutral puncheon, a neutral barrel and a once used barrel for 20 months. 94 cases produced.”
My Review: Ian Brand makes his wines lean, lower alcohol and less fruitiness than in most California wines. What this means is you can get to the true expression of the fruit. The 2016 Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch is still a somewhat lean Cabernet Franc. The palate is bold and fruity with bright acidity and cranberry/cherry tartness. Would love to try it with a cheese plate.
You can find I. Brand & Family wines directly from the winery – email them at brandfamilywinery@gmail.com. If you want to taste their wines, they are open Thurs. – Sun. 12pm – 6pm for tastings with limited hosted seatings. Please contact: hello@ibrandwinery.com to make a reservation.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited. Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays.
When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth. Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t. They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!
About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California. Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA. The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils. Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860. Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016. Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”
From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay. A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”
I am reviewing 4 Eden Rift wines in this blog post.
2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com
wine.com rated the 2018 rosé 92 points!
Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months. Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”
wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019
My Review: Light pink in the glass. Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish. I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)
IMHO, Chardonnay is truly the strong suit of Eden Rift.
Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”
Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.” 92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019
My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose. Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)
wine.com rated the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir 95 points!
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.” 91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass. Dark berry notes on the nose. Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness. Well balanced. A tasty wine. October 2020
2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)
The 2017 Zinfandel was very berry and enjoyable for what it is.
Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color.Berry jam on the nose. Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish. We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate. Still drinking well a week later. I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons. I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort. October 2020
Their tasting room is open by appointment. You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
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