Tagged: Monterey AVA

And Now: The Final Post on the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This is part 3 of my experience there. Please read Part 1 here and Part 2 here for more details. And many thanks again to the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for the tickets!

Today’s post will cover these local wineries and some of the wines they presented that day: Lepe Cellars, Windy Oaks Estate, Wrath, McIntyre Vineyards, and Galante Vineyards. Because these are the last wineries we visited that day, our tasting notes are skimpy – we focused more on conversations with the winemakers and staff. Winery notes come from their website or conversation with the winemaker, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

THE WINERIES/WINES

LEPE CELLARS

It was so nice to finally meet Miguel Lepe! He is one of our bright, creative NextGen winemakers – and one to watch!  I’ve tasted his wines several times and was so happy to finally meet him.  I admire the fact he is willing to make the kinds of big reds I like – in our land of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I previously wrote about Lepe Cellars here: Lepe Cellars: A New Face on the Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Circuit! I’m also working on a Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society event at his tasting room in Carmel-By-The-Sea in the next few months!

2022 Lepe Cellars Sangiovese Rosé, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $30 (#1109)

Winery Notes: “This bright, stone fruit focused dry Rosé starts out with a burst of peach and apricot leading into hints of tangerine. Pairs well with seared salmon, lobster and tuna tartare.”

My Review: By now, our tasting notes have been reduced to a few words. This rosé exhibited a mellow nose.  The Sangiovese grapes made this a very tasty version. August 2023

2020 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#1110)

Winery Notes: “Elegant aromas of wild strawberry, savory soy and light licorice show on the nose of this pure varietal. Dark plum and cherries show on the first sip, with a bit of earthy forest floor woven with pepper, oak and tannin creating a velvety, rich texture.”

My Review: Plummy and jammy on the nose. Tobacco and dark fruits on the palate. Very nice. August 2023

WINDY OAK ESTATE

I met Kerry Winslow in the Windy Oaks Tasting Room a few years back.  Extremely knowledgeable and friendly, Kerry is a class act – and he is everywhere.  After years of reading and quoting the wine blog grapelive.com, I finally put two and two together. And he has a great presence on Instagram and LinkedIn – follow him! He had us try a few wines on this day. We were just about at the end of this event, so note taking was practically non-existent. My apologies, Kerry.  I can do better. I previously wrote up Windy Oaks here: Windy Oaks: Les Deux Grands Crus and More Pinot Noir!

2018 Windy Oaks Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $32(#1111)

Winery Notes: Kerry indicated that this is a particular parcel of the Escolle Vineyard farmed especially for them.

Winemaker notes from wine.com: “Brilliant crisp golden delicious apple, bosc pear, lemon and pineapple fruits unfold on the rich palate along with hints of nutmeg, clove spice, butter rum and golden figs.

“This Chardonnay is sourced exclusively from the Escolle Vineyard near the famous Garys’ Vineyard, which is set on the classic sandy loams with touches of quartz and granite. All barrel fermented and aged in French oak with bâtonnage (stirred lees), it sees malolactic secondary fermentation which adds depth and texture to this lively wine.”

My Review: This is a very delicious, oaky, buttery, and creamy Chardonnay and currently available on their website. August 2023

2021 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1112)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: You all know I am not the biggest Pinot Noir fan, but I liked this one.  It had a very nice, lean palate with enough complexity to hold my interest. August 2023

2016 Windy Oaks Diane’s Block Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1113)

Winery Notes from wine.com: “Grown on 5-acre block, all estate, slightly warmer site, at a lower elevation, resulting in a bit more fruit forward notes. Exciting density and ultra-smooth ripe/creamy tannins with a stylish nose of wild strawberry/rhubarb and lavender. More subtle in the nose it saves its forward nature for a medium full attack on the lush palate showing fine detail and an array of red fruit flavors, mineral tones and sweet and sour notes, finishing long and spicy. The mouth feel makes an impact with layers of raspberry, black cherry and fresh picked plum along with a hint of French oak and savory spices that add excellent contrast in this serious and structured Pinot.”

My Review: It was a real treat to be able to taste this vintage of the Diane’s Block.  However, I apologize for lack of good tasting notes.Garnet in the glass with a touch of acidity on the finish. 2023

WRATH

We became quick fans of Wrath thanks to their broad portfolio of wines, especially, for me, their Syrahs.  It was through their wines that we began to get to know some of the great vineyards of Monterey County, such as their own San Saba Vineyard, the Tondré Grapefield in the Santa Lucia Highlands, and, more recently, KW Ranch, also in the Santa Lucia Highlands.  Because of their different lines of wines – and if I happen upon a good sale, I can even squeeze their EX (formerly Ex Animus) wines from time to time into one of my East Coast wine classes. And when I needed a Falanghina for my part of a virtual wine class, Wrath had one. You can read about it here: Ancient Roman Winemaking Meets Modern Viticulture!

2020 Wrath Swan/828 Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $39 (#1114)

Winery Notes: “Dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness highlight the characteristics of our growing area… This clonal blend uses all estate grown grapes.  It combines dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness on the nose.  The palate offers a balance of structure and acidity that compliments elegant, focused red berry and cherry cola with a hint of forest floor.  Nimble and pure, it terminates with a long clean finish that is enhanced with a touch of mineral.”

My Review: This wine was interesting to me, as the smokey, earthy nose contrasted with the rich palate of fruit which followed. August 2023

2020 Wrath Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $49 (#1115)

Winery Notes: “Wines made from master-grower Steve McIntyre’s vineyard often exhibit the telltale characteristics of Santa Lucia Highlands terroir.  Our 2020 McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir is no exception.  Comprised of 100 percent 115 clone and made with 20 percent whole-cluster fermentation, it is dense and complex, with pomegranate, a touch of smoke and a mineral element.  Berry flavors of cranberry and pomegranate remain persistent, blending with red currant, more mineral and bright acidity in a structured finish.” 94pts- Wine Enthusiast

“The 2020 Wrath McIntyre Pinot follows instep with previous vintages and displays classic red and black cherry flavors with a distinctive underlying minerality.”

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir wines that come from the McIntyre Vineyard and this one is no exception. This one was quite rich in the palate and delicious. August 2023

MCINTYRE VINEYARD

About two years ago, we happened to be in the Crossroads Shopping Center in Carmel and popped into McIntyre. It was a very quiet afternoon, so we got to taste a wide variety of Pinot Noirs.  That is when McIntyre Vineyards Pinot Noirs got my attention – I tasted some I actually liked!  You can read about that experience here: Impressive Pinot Noirs from Steve McIntyre Bring SLH to Life! Now I seek them out at events like these to validate my first impression! At the trade event this past August, we got to meet Kristen McIntyre and talk a bit about the wines.  Again, apologies.  As our penultimate stop, our notes are skimpy.

2019 McIntyre Family Wines Winemaker Series Don Van Staaveren Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $50 (#1116)

Winery Notes: “The idea for the Winemaker Series was born out of impatience and age-related urgency! If I’m lucky I’ll get to participate in another 20 to 30 vintages as our vineyards and wines evolve. Collaborating with a diverse set of winemakers and viticulturists provides exciting opportunities to experiment and accelerate our pace of discovery. Each Winemaker brings their own style and experience, just as a great chef or a musician, to the process of producing a life enhancing experience best shared with others” – Steve McIntyre

“Smells of bright, candied cherry fruit. The remarkably pure and crystalline cherry flavours have an aromatic sweetness to them that charms, while excellent acidity keeps the saliva flowing. Boisterous and bright with barely perceptible tannins. This expression of cherry will bring a smile to most drinkers.” (Alder Yarrow) Wine Enthusiast: 94 points

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir fruit and winemaking style from McIntyre.  This one was quite delicious. Classic and elegant. I now have a better appreciation for the Winemaker Series of their wines and will stop by to taste some more. August 2023

2018 McIntyre Merlot, Kimberly Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $30 (#1117)

Winery Notes: “Our 2018 Kimberly Vineyard is the epitome of Goldilocks-climate Merlot. It marries the lavish, ripe fruit of a warm site with the elegance and structure of a cool locale. As in previous years, the dominant character traits include blackberry, anise, cassis and dried currants. Below that is a bed of juicy black fruit and supple, silky tannins. While it drinks well now, this Merlot will continue to evolve and improve over the next decade.” (Steve McIntyre)

My Review: Sadly, I have zero tasting notes for this wine and will have to revisit it in their Crossroads Tasting Room in Carmel!

GALANTE VINEYARDS

While I have presented Galante wines on my website before (check out Galante: Now This Cowboy Makes Big Reds!, this was my first occasion to meet Jack Galante. The Galante family has a long legacy in the region, with his grandfather James Frank Devendorf founding Carmel-by-the-Sea and the Highlands Inn!  You can read more about the Galante history on their website.

A few years back, Galante sold its vineyards and winery to Tira Nanza (see above) and today it sources grapes from a variety of vineyards “from Paso Robles to Napa,” with most of their grapes coming from the Carmel Valley AVA, according to their website. According to Jack, they are still managing some vineyards.

Galante was the very last table we stopped at during this event – and my lack of tasting notes reflect that.  I haven’t been to their tasting room in a couple of years, so I will try to get back out there soon!

2021 Galante Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Blackjack Pasture, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $80 (#1118)

Winery Notes: N/A – pre-release

My Review: My only note was that this was one heck of a serious cab.  I definitely need to retaste this wine when it is released! August 2023

2021 Galante Vineyards Legacy Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $85 (#1119) 54% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winery Notes: “This ongoing series celebrates Jack’s great-grandfather’s – James Frank Devendorf – vision, who founded the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Aged in new French Oak for 15 months, this Bordeaux-style wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, featuring blackberries, violets and cocoa on the nose. Dried cherry and strawberry middle notes lead to a long, lingering finish of spice and tobacco. Cellar-worthy for many decades, but enjoyable right now as well.”

My Review: The only notes I took said that this wine exhibited some rather intense fruit – also worthy of a retaste soon! August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

All of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel, Carmel Valley, or out River Road – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!

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Even More Wines from the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!   

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  This is part 2 of my experience at the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting organized by the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association in Carmel in early August. Check my blog for Part 1 from earlier this week and I will have one more next week!

Today’s post will include our engagement with Silvestri Vineyards, Rexford Winery, Opaque Wines, Scheid Vineyards, Scratch Wines, and Tira Nanza.    

THE WINES

SILVESTRI VINEYARDS

It’s been a while since I have tasted Silvestri wines.  I have long been a fan of their Barbera and Syrah, so it was a real treat to try these at this event.

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $48 (#1098)

Winery Notes: “Syrah fans everywhere!  Our Syrah continues to please year after year.  Savor the aromas of blackberry and dried plum while enjoying the mouth-watering flavors, velvety texture along with medium tannins. Complement with sausage pizza, grilled veggies or grilled meat.”

My Review: Beautiful dark ruby in glass. Dark fruits enrobed with eucalyptus. Mouthfilling. Delicious. I had forgotten how delicious their Estate Syrah could be! August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1099)

Winery Notes: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest.  With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.

“Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”

My Review: Hammy bacon on the nose, like BBQ ribs. Dark fruit on the palate. Yummy. August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Red Ranger Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1100)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Red Ranger is the 7th release of our signature Syrah that represents a part of the vineyard featuring the Bien Nacido clone, which is known for its richness and complexity. We use 75% new French oak and age it in the cellar for 16 months…

“Red Ranger rocks!  That consistent depth of flavor, roundness and long finish are all here.  Blackberry, black currant and a trace of fig lead to the full mouthfeel, just the right acidity and long, luscious finish. Try with a sausage stew and roasted meats, or aged hard cheeses.” 93 points, 2023 Wine Enthusiast buying guide!

My Review: Inky in glass. Rich palate of dark fruits highlighted by some woody notes. My favorite red wine of the day. August 2023

REXFORD WINERY

I do miss Rexford’s tasting room in Carmel Valley.  It sat quietly next to Parsonage, where COraal Wine Co. is today.  We’d stop in to talk to the vintner from time to time.  He makes one heck of a delicious Chardonnay and Merlot.  But today I decided to try their Zinfandel.  We just don’t seem to have the right climate for Zinfandel, yet I continue to seek one out.

2019 Rexford Zinfandel, Gillian Enz Vineyards, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, 15.5% ABV, $37 (#1101)

Winery Notes: “Lime Kiln Valley is a small viticultural area located in the San Benito County south of Hollister. The area features soils of decomposed granite and limestone, with warm days and cool nights that lead to a long growing season producing balanced wines with great depth. We think that Sam’s great grandparents produced wine from grapes grown here more than a century ago so we are pleased to offer this Zinfandel. Aged in American oak and bottled without fining or filtration, the wine is full-bodied with rich berry flavors and a smooth finish. Enjoy it with barbecue, grilled meats or pasta.”

My Review: Garnet in color. While our region is not known for its Zinfandel, this Rexford wine is not bad for a lighter Zinfandel. August 2023

OPAQUE WINES

At the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration, which I wrote about here, I talked about the Riboli Family wines and San Simeon’s Stormwatch. At this event, I chose the Opaque line of wines.

2019 Opaque Darkness  Red Blend, El Pomar District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.9% ABV, $30 (#1102)

Winery Notes: “The word “opaque” means “impenetrable to light” and refers to the dark, inky, impenetrable color of the Riboli family’s proprietary blend. Opaque Darkness brings together the impressive quality of our estate grown Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah grapes. After aging in French and American barrels for 15 months, our hand-crafted artisan blend reveals ripe flavors of raspberry and blackberry with notes of spice and vanilla. Enjoy the darkness!”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark fruit berries not overdone. Very balanced. Really quite delicious. A superb value. August 2023

SCHEID VINEYARDS

At the Scheid table, we were introduced to a couple of family wine lines I had not heard of before. These two wines were lots of fun and perhaps the polar opposites, showing the range of what Monterey County can produce. 

Sunny with a Chance of Flowers: “Sunny is made for mindful wine lovers – who, like us, believe less can be more. Zero sugar, fewer calories and less alcohol, yet still positively delicious! It’s everything you want in a wine and more –certified sustainable, vegan and gluten-free.”

VDR – Very Dark Red: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. Effortlessly bold, it captivates the senses with an inherent confidence that draws you in. Slightly mysterious, yet unexpectedly approachable, this robust red blend reveals new layers of depth and personality with each lingering sip.”

Sunny Positively Bubby Rosé, Monterey County, 9% ABV, $20 (#1103)

Winery Notes: “Everything is better with bubbles! Our Sunny Bubbly delights with flavors of fresh strawberry and watermelon wrapped in a package of lovely, fine bubbles and a crisp, refreshing finish. We are all born to sparkle…Aromas of fresh strawberry and watermelon. Lovely, fine bubbles. A crisp, refreshing finish.” 91 points – Wine Enthusiast and Best Buy

My Review: Pale pink. Cantaloupe flavors. Very bubbly and light. Zero sugar. Made from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. August 2023

2020 VDR (Very Dark Red) Proprietary Red Blend, Hames Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $25 (#1104)

Winery Notes: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. VDR is a non-traditional proprietary red blend headlined by a rare combination of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot – two grape varietals known for their extraordinarily deep violet hues, concentrated flavors and full-bodied profiles. Big and bold, VDR not only turns heads, it turns the curious into evangelists with its layered complexity, lush mouthfeel, supple tannins and smooth, lingering finish.” https://www.cheersandco.com/

My Review: Inky in the glass. Dark fruit and caramel on the nose. A rich, jammy palate of dark fruit. Very tasty – a great value. August 2023

SCRATCH WINES

I think anyone who has met Sabrine Rodems would agree that she is a formidable talent in the Monterey winemaking world. She makes wine for Kori, Scratch, and Wrath, all in the same building at Wrath Wines.  Her talent, creativity and stamina are equally impressive. I fell in love with Wrath’s San Saba Syrah many years ago and knew, when I tried the Wrath Ex Dolio Falanghina, that she was one to think outside the box and dare to be different. 

I’ve had Scratch wines a few times and finally visited her cute, trendy and spacious tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. I was delighted to chat with Sabrine a bit on this day and taste some more of her wines.

2022 Scratch Rosé of Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV (#1105)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Bright pink in the glass. Fuji apple and great flavors on the palate – bright and delicious. August 2023

2021 Scratch C47 Marsanne/Roussanne White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $59 (#1106)

Winery Notes: “These two Northern Rhone varietals grown in Carmel Valley from the Paloma Creek Vineyard are traditionally blended together. The slightly crisp nature of Marsanne with white nectarine, quince & lemon balance out the creamy Roussanne with fig, peach, pear and a little nuttiness.”

My Review: Melon on the nose. Creamy from the fruit with an attractive sweetness at the finish. August 2023

2019 Scratch C47 Red Blend, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 14.5% ABV, $95 (#1107) Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot

Winery Notes: “Classic Bordeaux blend from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc from the steep slopes of Janaca Vineyard. Merlot harvested from the high elevation of the Zayante Vineyard. Black berries, blueberries with hints of juniper & spices all come together in this blend, creating a sophisticated and age worthy bottle to enjoy now or in the future.”

My Review: An attractive dark garnet in color. Lots of berry flavors, yet retains a lean nature. August 2023

TIRA NANZA

We had met Greg Hill at the Monterey Winemakers’ Celebration back in June, so it was great to see him here and try another of his wines.  We are big fans of our newest and youngest wineries and believe Tira Nanza shows great promise. I previously reviewed his Cabernet Sauvignon here.

2022 Tira Nanza Malbec Rosé, Central Coast AVA, 13.5% ABV, $30 (#1108)

Winery Notes: “Back by popular demand, our 2022 Malbec Rosé may differ from its predecessor in color but it shares the same vibrant fruit and complexity that made the ‘21 so special. Lighter in color and more tropical in flavor, with notes of strawberry, cantaloupe and mango, this Rosé can be enjoyed in any setting. Fermented and aged in Stainless Steel”

My Review: We detected floral notes on the nose and palate, with anise on the finish. It was served very cold. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event in Drizzly Carmel!

THE STORY

I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.” The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This event was organized by Kim Stemler, Executive Director, and Tina Huynh, Membership & Program Coordinator, of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association. I am grateful to have been able to participate for the first time in this event. I also thank I Brand & Family for validating this by sending me a personal invitation.

The event was held at 7th and Steak in Carmel-By-The-Sea on what started out as a drizzly morning. We paid no attention to the drizzle and immediately headed to the back patio to start tasting wines alphabetically.  28 wineries were scheduled to pour several wines each, which meant there was a lot to do in our limited time.  My partner and I have a strategy: we prioritize wineries at which we have not tasted, we choose 2 wines at each winery table, we share the taste, and dump the rest. 

We really valued the opportunity to talk directly to the winemakers, CEOs, vineyard managers, tasting room managers and others at this special event.  Each winery was a unique experience.  Although we didn’t get to every table, I nonetheless have a lot of wines to present from this event.  I struggle with how to do that and not get grossly behind in my posts.  I’m expecting 3 posts to cover this single event. So, I am continuing my twice weekly post until I get caught up.

THE WINES

I have 12 wines to present to you today these local wineries: Caraccioli Cellars, Corral Wine Co., Folktale Winery, Holman Ranch, J Lohr, and Lucy Wines. Winery notes come from their websites or conversations with the representatives at this event. It was eye opening for me to see the wholesale prices for the wines.  While I am usually extended an industry discount, I am grateful for the occasional offer of the wholesale price for my wine education events.  That allows me to present higher quality local wines in nonprofit, budget-limited classes.  Any errors in this post are mine and mine alone. I encourage you to check their websites regarding tasting opportunities!

CARACCIOLI CELLARS

Caraccioli Cellars is one of the best places to taste sparkling wines in Monterey County, with their Brut Rosé being one of my top choices for a special celebration. We were excited to learn about their Private Property label – a second label to bring a more affordable option to highlighting our region while still leveraging grapes from the family’s highly acclaimed Escolle Vineyard. 

2021 Private Property Brut Rosé, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $40        (#1086) 57% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir

My Review: Very pale pink in color. Not too yeasty on the nose. Very crisp and tart with a lot of fruit flavors. Fine bubbles dissipated quickly. August 2023

2017 Caraccioli Cellars Brut Cuvee, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $60 (#1087)

Winery Notes: “Produced as a mixed cépage of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%), this wine is aged on the lees four years. Bright and fresh with layers of depth and structure, the Brut Cuvée is our flagship wine.” 93 Points Wine Enthusiast

My Review: A little barnyard on the nose. Fine bubbles on the crisp and slightly tart palate. Classic. I would like to present this one in a class. August 2023

CORRAL WINE CO.

It was great to see winemaker Adrien Valenzuela at this event and taste some brand new vintages!  I like to present Corral wines in my classes because I believe Adren is one of the best up-and-coming winemakers in our region.  While his whites are very tasty, what he can do with red varietals and blends is impressive. I say, “Watch this space!!”

2022 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1088)

My Review: Honeydew on the nose. A nice, round palate finishing with pineapple and citrus fruits. August 2023

2022 Corral “Pancho’s Chard” Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#1089)

My Review: Nice, crisp palate. Smooth, well-melded fruit. Tasty. August 2023

FOLKTALE WINERY

As of this event, I had not yet been to Folktale for a formal tasting, but was scheduled for a winery tour with winemaker David Baird the very next day! (Post coming soon!!)

Folktale Brut Sparkling Wine, Monterey County, 11.8% ABV, $40 (#1090)

Winery Notes: “Light and refreshing, we made our Brut to enjoy on its own or paired with, well, just about anything. This sparkling wine opens with notes of green apple, banana, and tropical kiwi, developing into flavors of peach and tart strawberry on the palate. Enjoy chilled and often.”

My Review: A sweet nose. Tiny bubbles on the light, pleasant palate. August 2023

2022 Common Thread Three Strands Red Wine Blend, Central Coast AVA, 12.8% ABV, $40 (#1091) 57% Pinot Noir, 28% Pinot Gris, 15% Pinot Meunier

Winery Notes: Description of the 2021: “A blend of 2 red and 1 white grape varieties, this natural wine exudes character. Juicy with bright red fruits and exotic spice, the wine has bright acidity and fine whole-cluster tannin. Pairs wonderfully with vegetarian dishes or as a refreshing aperitif wine.” This is David’s own label.

My Review: Slightly cherry nose. A little tart. Very balanced with some cinnamon on the finish. Would be good with food! August 2023

HOLMAN RANCH

For us, it was a real treat to meet Kirstie Dyer, the CEO of Holman Ranch at this event.  I really owe Holman Ranch a visit (they make a Syrah now, after all!) and would love to see the ranch itself.

2019 Holman Ranch Jarman Estate Reserve Brut Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $114 (magnum) (#1092)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Reserve Jarman Sparkling Brut Rosé begins with a bright citrus nose of grapefruit and lemon, carried by balanced marine salinity. Notes of raspberry and strawberry introduce a warm palate, enhanced by a hint of freshly risen dough, showing great precision. A well-integrated, restrained dosage is complemented by a persistent méthode champenoise mousse.” 87% Pinot Noir, 13% Chardonnay

My Review: Barely pink – very light in glass. We liked the flavors and the bubbles in this sparkling rosé. August 2023

2022 Holman Ranch Estate Susan’s Saignée Rosé of Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $37 (#1093)

Winery Notes: “The 2022 Susan’s Saignée Rosé shows a light salmon hue in the glass. This wine has aromas of bright strawberry and watermelon, accompanied by more tropical characteristics. The palate gives passion fruit, lemon peel and orange blossom, adding complexity. This wine is clean and lively with balanced acidity.” Made from 667 and 777 clones.

My Review: Pale pink in glass with a slightly sweet nose. Yeasty, lean palate. Metallic taste. Not a patio wine. August 2023

J LOHR

I enjoy seeing J Lohr at these events, even though I put them in a different category from our smaller, local vintners. It was terrific to meet Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wine located in Greenfield. The wines they presented today allowed us to try some different things. Would be nice if there were a tasting room in the county, but I guess I’ll just have to get down to Paso Robles more!

2021 J Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1094)

Winery Notes: “The 2021 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay exhibits intriguing aromas of paperwhites, Meyer lemon, ripe apple, pear, and crème brulée. The rich palate texture is balanced by layered flavors of pear, lemon cream, baking spices, and minerality, with a long, sweet oak finish.” 94 Points, Best of Class, Gold at the 2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition

My Review: A bright, pale yellow in the glass. Butter and pineapple on the nose, carrying over to the palate. Tasty. I liked it. August 2023

2022 J Lohr Wildflower Valdigué, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1095)

Winery Notes: “Crafted in the style of Beaujolais wines. This light-bodied red wine from Monterey is perfect when served chilled and can pair with a wide variety of foods…Served slightly chilled, displays inviting fresh raspberry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas, with a bit of black pepper and hibiscus. Flavors of brambly, bright red berry with a touch of spice, mid-palate acidity lead to a juicy, mouthwatering finish.”

My Review: So very purple in color. Cranberry, hibiscus, and plum on the nose. A surprisingly lean palate, yet quite tasty. Not a typical varietal we find bottled in these parts. August 2023

LUCY

I had never head of Lucy before, so I am including a bit of extra information about them – I was stuck by their affordability for the quality – and their charity-driven purpose.

About Lucy: “Welcome to Lucy, made by the Pisoni family. Elegant, approachable, meaningful, and fun. The Lucy philosophy is to craft beautiful wines that are classically made for pure and vibrant expressions. The wines also represent important aspects of our region’s history and community…

“The wines we take great care in crafting under our Lucy label are standouts for us in their ability to combine glamor with versatility. Because they pair well with a wide range of dishes, they’ll shine in any setting. We’re particularly proud to be able to match these three wines to a trio of outstanding causes: funds to support breast cancer research, ocean conservancy, and the Big Sur Fire Department.”

You can read more about the making of these wines here: https://lucywines.com/behind-the-wine/

2022 Lucy Wines Rosé of Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $24 (#1096)

Winery Notes: “If the Lucy Rose of Pinot Noir offers any preview into the quality of the coming wines for a given vintage, rest assured that 2022 will certainly be a vintage to remember. Sporting shades of melon, salmon, and coral that are classic for a Lucy Rosé, this beautiful offering packs unyielding aromatic intensity as it chills and condensates on the sides of the glass. Delicate at first with notes of fresh strawberry and subtle, mineral driven undertones, this wine begins to offer complexities seldom seen in rose as it warms slightly. Plush notes of peach blossom and watermelon waft into the air, as the first sips offer citrus driven flavors of tangerine and orange peel, backed by tart raspberry and rose petal. Brief but impactful aging in 100% neutral French oak barrels offers an added layer of texture that pairs seamlessly with fresh, prickly acidity.”

My Review: Pale salmon in color. Musty goodness on the nose, perhaps the best smelling rose of the day.  Followed by big rose flavors, making it the tastiest rose of the day. August 2023

2022 Lucy Wines Pico Blanco White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, $26 (#1097)

Winery Notes: “Our blend of pinot gris and pinot blanc is named Pico Blanco to commemorate a mountain peak in Monterey County known for its beauty and its high-grade limestone mineral deposits. With Pico Blanco, we pay homage to Monterey County’s earliest grape growing traditions–traditions in which pinot gris, an early-planted cool climate grape in the region–played a central role. Crafting this wine is a way for us to locate ourselves in historical time and place and to respect the traditions of grape growing in Monterey County.

“As always, purity and complexity continue to be our focus. The pinot gris and pinot blanc grapes to be blended into Pico Blanco are hand-sorted and carefully pressed to moderate the extraction and flavor derived from their skins. We use entirely neutral barrels for fermentation to sustain the purity of the fruit and to augment its texture. We also depend exclusively upon native yeast. Doing so is another way we maintain the traditional winemaking practices we prize. At the same time, this practice allows us to coax complex flavors from the fruit. We bottle Pico Blanco without any fining.”

My Review: A delightful, floral nose. Round flavors on the palate. Lingering finish. August 2023.

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – I encourage you to get out there and try them for yourselves! please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!

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Best Winery Tour Ever at Bernardus!

THE STORY

In July, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod experienced the best winery tour ever at Bernardus! Last November, at the Marinus dinner, Jim McCabe, assistant winemaker at Bernardus, invited us to come up to the winery in Cachagua for a tour. We finally made it there in July! And I would say the fun wine education aspects of the tour were what made it so special.

Winery notes for this post come from conversations with the winemaker unless otherwise indicated. You can read more about Bernardus on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

Also, with all the wine events and special tastings we have done, I will be posting twice weekly for a bit to get caught up! My, we have been busy!!

Jim McCabe met us outside where he explained what happens to the grapes from the moment they arrive at the facility. He indicated that harvest is looking 2-3 weeks late this year due to the winter and spring rains. Veraison is a little late, but every really hot, sunny day we get speeds it up. Chemistry and appearance will tell them when to harvest the grapes.

In response to our questions about white grapes, they expect 2-3 tons per acre. They gently press the white grapes to avoid any off flavors. They shoot for 150-170 gallons of juice per ton.

We grabbed our glasses as we moved inside.

THE WINES

We started out tasting some Monterey Chardonnay at the filtration stage, followed by a Pinot Noir at the cold fermentation stage. We then went deep into the barrel room to do more wine education.  We examined how different barrel ages affect the wine, how different yeasts influence the flavor profile, and how to recognize and resolve reduction! What fun!

2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Monterey County (#1065)

We tasted this sample at the filtration stage.

My Review: Light golden. Nice delicious tropical nose. Pineapple and butter. Rich and sweet on the palate with a bright finish, some bitter notes yet nice. July 2023

2022 Bernardus Pinot Noir, Gary’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1066)

This sample was at the cold fermentation stage.

My Notes: Garnet. Cold. Plum and perfume. Tasty palate. Smooth. July 2023

2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1067)

We compared 2 samples from different aged barrels.

My Notes:

New oak barrels: Buttery, tropical nose with some sulfur dioxide. Rich and viscous on palate with pineapple flavors on the finish. Wow. Big. Delicious. July 2023

3-year-old oak barrels: Faint tropical notes on nose and more sophisticated palate. Leaner yet tasty with more subtle flavors and more acidity. July 2023

2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Sierra Mar Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1068)

We compared 2 samples made with different yeasts – and then a combined sample! Wow – we made some wine!!

Winery Notes: Every 2 weeks, they top off the barrels and perform battonage. They expect to bottle 19 barrels of Sierra Mar Chardonnay.  

My Notes:

D47 yeast: More acidic on the nose. Citrus notes. Mouthfilling, completely different flavor profile. Explodes on front end. Crushed pineapple a hidden bitterness on the finish. More acidic overall to me.

Montrachet yeast: Totally different. Pale in glass. Butter and mild pineapple on nose. More vanilla and tartness on the palate. Rounder flavors.

Blended samples: Crushed pineapple on the nose. Balanced palate. Burnt caramel on the finish. Very nice.

2022 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County (#1069)

Winery Notes: A little Hungarian oak. Intended for Marinus red blend.

My Notes: Intense dark ruby in color. Tart jam on nose. Juicy on the palate.

2022 Bernardus Merlot, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County (#1070)

Jim had just talked to us about reduction a few moments before we tasted this wine. One of our members identified it right away, so we got to see first hand how to mitigate reduction. 

Barrel sample: Rubbery notes. Reduction is starting! Bright and dark raspberry on the palate. Dark and bitter on finish.

Post-copper treatment: Immediately changed flavor: lots of jammy, berry fruit and no reductive flavors. Tasted amazing.

Other fun facts (any of which I could have captured wrong):

  • They have a small, full-time staff of 8 people, plus contract support for busy times.
  • In their winemaking, they use French oak barrels for a period of 3 years. 

  • They have some huge, 2000-gallon oak tanks which they can use for Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, taking the place of stainless tanks.
  • Grapes from Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards that don’t make the vineyard designate bottlings can then become part of their Santa Lucia Highlands program.
  • They are elevating their Marinus vineyard. Doing more hand work and replacing some of the old vines.
  • The label: They are dropping the “B” label and going to a cleaned-up version (see the one on the right below) of the old one for brand recognition.

  • They also switched cork sources to improve the reliability of their corks. Their “Monterey” line has screw tops.
  • He showed us a brand new barrel and even let us sniff inside!

  • They produce 45,000-61,000 cases in an average harvest year.
  • And, finally, examine your spit after drinking Cabernet Sauvignon – it might surprise you. (But none of us can remember why…)

Tasting Bernardus Wines: Their tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every day! Reservations are not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here or email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call them at 831-298-8021.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!

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I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  

THE STORY

As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley.  We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections.  We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side.  What fun!

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:

1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!

2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others.  While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines. 

THE WINES

Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS

We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.

Cabernet Francs:

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose.  Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir.  This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.

Cabernet Sauvignons:

This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75     (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate.  More Napa-like in overall composition.

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.

TODAY’S WINES

I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish.  We liked this wine. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”

My Review:  Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023

2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”

My Review: Straw in the glass.  Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis.  Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic.  Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’.  The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”

My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose.  A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish.  This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023

2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023

2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)

Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”

My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance.  Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)

Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”

My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose.  A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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30th Annual Monterey Winemakers Celebration Showcases Emerging Wineries!

When I found out that this year’s Monterey Winemakers Celebration was happening on June 10th, I had some juggling to do.  I had a wine class scheduled in DC, but was able to move it to be able to attend this event. The bonus was getting extra quality time in DC with our daughter! As soon as I straightened out my class, I got brave and asked Kim Stemler of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association if there was any way I could be comped a couple of tickets – and she immediately said yes! And I convinced the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod to attend!

As my avid readers know, Decanting Monterey is a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines.  The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners.  I was grateful for this opportunity. And the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association is my go-to resource for all things Monterey wine.

About the Monterey Winemakers Celebration: “Join the vintners (winemakers) & growers of Monterey County and enjoy the incredible wines and culinary abundance from one of the world’s premier wine regions in the quaint village of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This iconic Monterey County wine festival, in its 30th year, will be held on Saturday, June 10, during Carmel’s Culinary Week. The event is moving back to the streets – Dolores (between Ocean and 7th) and 7th Street (between Dolores and San Carlos). Some of our favorite Chefs and food purveyors will join us to delight you with their magic.

“Event proceeds go to the Monterey County Vintners & Growers Foundation Peter Figge Memorial Scholarship Fund.” This fund is still open for donations.

I can’t wait to learn the date of next year’s event and get it on my calendar early!

WINERIES: I’m so pleased that the event website contained live links to all the wineries in attendance, making it easy to spot and research those wineries that are new or ones where we have never tasted wine, as well as to see which of our well-known wineries were there.

Albatross Ridge ● Bernardus Winery ● Caraccioli Cellars ● Carmel Road ● Chalone Vineyard ● Corral Wine Co ● Cru Winery ● Folktale Winery & Vineyards ● Hahn Family Wines ● Holman Ranch ● I. Brand & Family Wines ● J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines ● JL Wood Wines ● Joyce Wine Company ● Kori Wines ● La Crema ● Lepe Cellars ● Le Mistral Wines ● McIntyre Vineyards ● Odonata Wines ● Pelio Estate Wines ● Pessagno Wines ● Pierce Ranch Vineyards ● Puma Road ● Rexford Winery ● Robert Mondavi Private Selection ●Rustiqué Wines ● Scheid Vineyards ● Scratch Wines ● Shale Canyon Wines ● Silvestri Vineyards ● Talbott Vineyards ● Tira Nanza ● Windy Oaks Estate ● Wrath Wines

There were also quite a few delicious food options, which is important when you are sampling a lot of wine. Here’s who was there (from the event website):

CULINARY DELIGHTS

Basil ● Carmel Honey Company ● Chef Dyon ● Flaherty’s Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar ● La Balena ● Lumpia Lady 831 ● Miss Lippe’s Dumplings ● The Meatery ● Mmm Churros ● Quail and Olive ● Seventh & Dolores Steakhouse ● Vesuvio ● Yafa

I could have just hung out at Basil and Yafa all afternoon.

 My Strategy: I had a strategy going in – to focus on wineries that were new or ones I had never presented in my blog, sample one wine, and dump the rest.  I stuck to that approach for the most part. I also was able to have a few tastes of some of our favorites, too.  2 hours at the Main Event were plenty to talk to the new or new-to-us vintners and catch up with friends. We began at Shale Canyon and ended at Bernardus, with a nice, long stop at Corral Wine Co. in the middle.  I was happy to connect with newcomers JL Wood, Pelio Estate, Tira Nanza, as well as try Rustiqué Wines, Folktale and The Riboli Family wines. I somehow missed tasting a wine at Carmel Road. I was still able to do a quick reach back in the middle to Chalone, Lepe, McIntyre, Puma Road, I Brand & Family, Joyce, and others. Maybe I will write a bit about them in the coming weeks!

Unlike the Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival in May, this one was – for the most part – just our local wineries plus The Riboli Family from Paso Robles and Los Angeles, and a few big names like Robert Mondavi and J. Lohr.  And a great chance to sample wines from across the county.  If you love Monterey wines, this is the event for you!

I did not capture detailed tasting notes at this event, so I’ve cobbled together my reviews from memory. Today is more about showcasing these new/new to me wineries.  This post focuses on  JL Wood, Pelio Estate, Tira Nanza, Rustiqué Wines, Folktale and The Riboli Family. Each is worthy of a future visit and a full tasting. Any winery notes are from their websites or from the presenters at this event.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

JL WOOD WINES

We had never heard of JL Wood. They have long been producing grapes and decided to make their own wines.  They only make Chardonnay from Arroyo Seco – the wines they brought to this event were all Gold or Double Gold Medal winners. Their first vintage was 2021. Their winery operations are up in Napa and they have no tasting room. You can order their wines on their website and they ship to several states for free!

I love their intro on their home page: “Visiting friends? Going to a party? Celebrating at home? Having a relationship thing? Just got home from a required work in office day? Try a glass of JL WOOD Chardonnay. At JL WOOD, Chardonnay is all we do.”

From their website: “We are proud to announce that our 2021 Premier won Double GOLD and 97 points at the just concluded Sunset International Wine Competition. Our Nouveau won GOLD and 91 points at the 2023 Sommeliers Choice Awards, an international competition in San Francisco. In the same competition, our No-Oak won a GOLD and 90 points. Premier won GOLD and 93 points and the No-Oak won GOLD and 92 points at the 2023 Winemaker Challenge. The No-Oak won GOLD and 90 pts at the 2023 Monterey International Wine Competition. The Nouveau won GOLD at the 2023 Monterey Wine Festival. Our No-Oak won SILVER at the 2023 New Orleans Food and Wine Experience International Wine Competition and was judged to be one of the top Chardonnay wines.”

About JL Wood: “JL WOOD is a family-owned winery with a laser focus on a satisfying and modern customer experience. We create modern affordable luxury wines that are true to the fruit, delivering clean and bold flavors sip after sip. We use our independence to showcase outstanding lots of wine that otherwise would have disappeared into the oblivion of a 60,000 or 160,000-gallon industrial winery tank.”

Building on a legacy

“Our family has been on the same land for over 100 years. The land has been very productive. The family has farmed grains, vegetables, livestock feed, cattle, and sheep. A UC Davis study in the late 1950s identified our district as being ideal for certain types of wine grapes, like Chardonnay, that enjoy a combination of hot summer days and cool nights.

“JL Wood led the family into the wine business. Our wine grapes were planted in the late 90s. The rootstock and clones we have were carefully selected to match our soils and climate. The result has been very efficient farming and outstanding Chardonnay wine.”

2021 JL Wood Premier Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $36 (#1028)

Winery Notes: “Fruit and citrus flavors. Smooth acidity and signature long finish. Flavors layered with a pleasing vanillin, spice, and toasted oak background notes. Fully fermented. No malolactic fermentation. No added sugar. Pairs well with a multi-course meal of fish, meat, or sophisticated dishes. Award winning: GOLD and 93 points at the Winemakers’ Challenge Competition.”

My Review: Pale golden in the glass.  Nice aromas of white citrus blossoms and tropical fruit on the nose.  A very tasty and balanced palate – oak is very well integrated in this wine so that it is almost imperceptible. June 2023

PELIO ESTATE WINES

We first heard of Pelio Vineyards from the labels of other wineries – then I saw they were opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley next door to Blue Fox. Pelio Estate Wines was on my must-taste list for this event, as I am hoping to arrange a future Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society event there.  You can taste their wines by contacting them directly or making a reservation on their website.  They are located at 25 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley and open Friday – Sunday 11:30 am – 6 pm.

About Pelio: “As sisters we have always dreamed of owning our own business. When we thought about what we wanted to do, our first thoughts went to our two loves: wine and Carmel Valley.” -Lindsey & Shelby Pelio.

“In the year 2000, we purchased a piece of land where we made great memories of family picnics, learning to ride bikes and playing hide-and-go-seek in fields. Most importantly, it was the place as kids, where we let our minds run free and learned how to dream big.  This piece of land was the catalyst of many firsts for us as sisters. It is where we first learned how to ride a bike, first learned how to drive a car and now it is the foundation of our first business endeavor together.  We are the proud owners of this beautiful land and fabulous vineyard. As in the blending of fine wines, we took our grapes, added family, friends, winemakers, and here we are today with PELIO ESTATE VINEYARDS.”

2020 Pelio Estate Pinot Noir Rosé, Monterey AVA, $28  (#1029)

Winemaking Description: “The 2020 Pelio Rose is produced in the whole-cluster to press method. Specific sections of the vineyard were hand harvested to produce a wine that highlights crisp acidity with balanced bright fruit characteristics. Clusters were loaded into the press and pressed to a minimal 120gallons/ton before overnight settling and fermentation. Juice was only in contact with the skins for the 45-minute press cycle giving this wine it’s delicate color.  A cool ferment was carried out to dryness over two weeks before racking and maturation in stainless steel.”

Winery Tasting Notes: “A beautiful pale pink in the glass, this rose gives aromas of fresh strawberry and guava, with bright tropical esters of banana. The palate shows grapefruit and mixed citrus over crisp acidity. The texture is silky for a light rose and matches the flavors well.”

My Notes: Very pink in color, this rose is exactly what one is looking for on a warm, sunny day.  Very balanced, crisp.  Recommend this wine.  June 2023

TIRA NANZA

Tira Nanza is a true, local newcomer.  We first heard of them on the event website and were eager to seek them out. They are located in Cachagua on the former Galante ranch and have already invited Decanting Monterey to visit!

About Tira Nanza: “From its sumptuous taste to scenic vineyard views, wine evokes feelings of luxury, sophistication, and indulgence. Like most consumers, this view of wine was all that we initially knew. It wasn’t until we dove head first into the industry and experienced the entirety of the winemaking process that we truly fell in love with it.

“Our goal is to offer a more authentic way to interact with and enjoy wine. Our wine experiences are process-driven, fostering deep connections, rather than overly product-driven, formulaic walkthroughs that only create surface level connections. It’s our hope that this will give our guests newfound excitement and deeper insight into the world of wine.”

“In order to make great wine you must have great fruit. Every decision we make is centered around growing the best fruit we possibly can. Where the soils allow, we dry-farm our vineyards to foster plants that are self-sufficient and not dependent on a weekly shot of water. Dry-farming forces the vines to send their roots deeper to find water and results in fruit that is more concentrated and more connected to its terroir.

“We rely on natural solutions to get the most out of our vineyards. We count on our healthy population of owls and hawks for pest control, and we use cows to clean between the rows and to improve our soil health. We use only organic and biodynamic sprays to keep our fruit healthy and untainted. Our approach requires an intimate relationship with our vineyards garnered by walking them daily. Every vine at Tira Nanza is hand-pruned and hand-harvested by the same hands that make the wines.”

2021 Tira Nanza Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $85 (#1030)

Winery Notes: “Our inaugural vintage of Cab is finally here! Harvested from the oldest vines on our ranch, this dry farmed fruit exceeded all of our expectations for our first vintage. Blended with 20% Merlot and aged entirely in French Oak (75% neutral/25% new) this wine combines rich red fruit flavors with an inviting freshness seldom seen in California Cabernet.”

My Review: Impressive first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon.  Lively in color – a vibrant garnet. Cherry notes on the nose and palate.  This was quite good and drinkable now – will improve with age. June 2023

RUSTIQUÉ

We have seen Rustiqué located next to Odonata and have tasted wines from the Silacci Vinayard, but this was the first time interacting with Rustiqué directly.  Their tasting room is open Friday – Sunday 11 am to 5 pm at 1010 River Road, Salinas. They also do some nice special events there.

About Rustiqué: “Rustiqué is a family owned and operated estate winery established in 2006. Made with the grapes from Silacci Vineyards, we are dedicated to learning from the land and evolving alongside it to make high quality pinot noir and chardonnay. Our tasting room is located in Monterey County in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range.”

2021 Rustiqué Silacci Vineyard Oaked Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, 14.6% ABV, $36 (#1031)

Winery Notes: “This Chardonnay highlights the cold climate growing region of Monterey County, with aromas and flavors of golden pear, peach, melon and floral accents. It’s full bodied and accentuated palate leaves you with a beautiful structured oak toast and well rounded mineral driven finish.”

My Review: Pale yellow in the glass.  If you like an oaky Chardonnay, this is the one for you.  I still need to visit their tasting room.June 2023

FOLKTALE

We haven’t been to Folktale since they first opened, mostly because we prefer a traditional wine tasting setup. They have blossomed into a beautiful wine and food venue which we have not yet experienced. Moreover, they have just opened a tasting venue at Now that they have been making wine for a while, it was time to taste their wines! Plus they just opened a tasting bar at Seventh & Dolores Steakhouse in Carmel-by-the-Sea. I was very pleased to be invited to the winery for a tasting, which I will do soon with my friend Erin of tèr·ra·ve·nos! While I tasted their big, Bordeaux-style red blend, I was also intrigued by their cloudy orange wine. Keeping to my 1-wine rule, I was unable to taste both!

About Folktale: “In 2015, a band of artists, craftspeople, and lovers of life brought their wandering imaginations and lofty aspirations to a magical piece of land in Carmel, California. Out in the sunny valley, we cultivated grapevines and gardens to craft beautiful wines and experiences to delight the senses. We named this place Folktale Winery & Vineyards.

“Folktale was inspired by the idea that in every great bottle of wine, there is a story. It is filled with uniqueness of place, a year of sun and rain, and the art and craft of winemaking. The story is about our people, our guests, and our passion. This is a love story, and the best love stories never end.”

2018 Folktale The Hound, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)

Winery Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus.  The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”

Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Franc, which is primarily from the Massa Estate, shows boisterous aromas of boysenberry, crumpled flowers and acai on the nose. Massive tannins and strong acidity rise up on the sip, so give the dark fruits time to emerge from behind that veil. Drink 2023–2032.” — Matt Kettmann

My Review: Dark garnet in the glass.  Smooth dark berry fruit on the palate. Grippy tannins on the finish.  Overall, quite likeable (with that great pedigree of using Massa Estate grapes, what’s not to like?), but the dry finish leads me to think it needs a few more years of cellaring. Would pair well with a steak. My friend Erin of tèr·ra·ve·nos and I were invited to visit and will plan to do so soon. June 2023

THE RIBOLI FAMILY

I had not heard of the Riboli Family by name, but I had certainly heard of some of its brands: Maddalena, San Simeon, among others. I was only able to taste one wine here (my choice, not theirs) and I went for one of their reserve red blends from San Simeon.

About the Riboli Family:

“4 GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKING EXCELLENCE SINCE 1917

“A family legacy built on hard work, family values, and a love for the land.

“Here at Riboli Family Wines, we pride ourselves in maintaining our core family values while also employing innovative techniques that will keep our legacy alive for generations to come. Each Riboli family member maintains a steadfast commitment to honoring not only our premiere craftsmanship of wines, but also our dedication to environmental sustainability and to the people that make up our family business.”

About San Simeon wines, Paso Robles:

DISTINCTIVE SOILS: “The superb structure and elegant profiles found in our wines are the direct result of our estate vineyards’ unique blends of calcareous limestone, sandstone, and loam soils.”

HILLSIDE VINEYARDS: “Our estate vineyards are all situated on hillsides as we believe these aspects provide the best grape-growing conditions. The slopes provide great drainage, protection from frost, and optimal ripening conditions for our vines.”

CURATED CLONAL SELECTION: “Our vineyards feature over 15 varieties of grapes and over 50 clones carefully curated to match each vineyard’s terroir.”

About San Simeon Reserve Wines: “Ancient seas receded and revealed a unique bed of limestone on which world-class wines now grows. From our best blocks on steep hillsides with perfect aspect and drainage, creating our signature flavors and aromas.”

2019 San Simeon Stormwatch Estate Reserve, Paso Robles, 14.9% ABV, $70 (#1033)       42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Petit Verdot, 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec

Winery notes: “The skies darken, the winds howl, and the waves pound the rugged shore…Stormwatch! Located near the coastal town of San Simeon, our family’s ESTATE vineyards are located within the El Pomar district of the renowned Paso Robles appellation. Steep hillsides and rocky soils produce the intense flavors and aromas of this Bordeaux-style blend. Our artisan wine is hand-crafted in small lots and aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of 18 months. Dark, rich, and mouth-filling. Ripe flavors of blackberry and raspberry with touches of spice and vanilla. Enjoy the thrill of Stormwatch!”

 My Review: Very dark in the glass, this brooding wine is packed with dark fruit flavors and was one of the best reds we tasted at this event. This is my kind of wine and perhaps my favorite wine of the day. I need to get down to Paso to taste more San Simeon wines! June 2023

© Decanting Monterey 2023

*FOLLOW ME ON Instagram, Facebook, and CELLAR TRACKER: Central Coast Sharon

Monumental Third Year, Decanting Monterey!

Today marks the third anniversary of Decanting Monterey, A Central Coast Wine Blog! And what a year it has been! With 291 wines presented and reaching over 10,000 views, we have a lot to celebrate. Please read to the end for today’s small ask.

OUR HISTORY

Deep in the unvaccinated period of the pandemic in July 2020, Decanting Monterey was founded on wines from our own collection sampled at home, with or without our neighboring friends and our daughters, who quickly became known as the COVID Wine Pod. It was 2 posts per week and, mostly, one wine at a time. Back then, some wineries had just reopened with their COVID procedures and we still weren’t venturing out much. I also established the @decantingmonterey Facebook page.

During Year 2, as we became fully vaccinated and boosted – and double boosted, we were able to get out to more local wineries at a more deliberate pace. And the COVID Wine Pod was renamed the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod! I also moved to a single post per week and presented a single wine class to my old DC wine group. Most of the posts were based on event-driven or winery tastings and fewer individual, cellar-driven posts.  And I started the @decanting_monterey Instagram feed.

During Year 3, I began to get recognition as an entity with some stature behind it:

OUR STATS

I have some high-level stats to share with you about Year Three of Decanting Monterey!

  • www.decantingmonterey.com hit the 10,000 “views” mark! This statistic is very important to me.  If you are seeing my blog on social media or via email, please be sure to click the link and open it!
  • 291 wines were presented on Decanting Monterey for the first time.
  • 207 red wines were presented, as well as 62 whites, 20 rosés, and a couple of oranges – including 6 sparkling and 2 fortified wines.

  • Over 39 distinct varietals were presented with Pinot Noir topping the list thanks to the SLH festival I attended, followed closeky by Red Blends, and Syrah – no surprise if you know me!
  • 8 Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society events and 2 private tastings conducted at home were presented.
  • Wines from 12 California counties are represented, with 181 from Monterey, 30 from Santa Barbara, 20 from San Benito, 15 from Santa Cruz, 11 from San Luis Obispo, 9 from San Benito – and more! Plus 12 wines from Italy!

  • Wines from 6 of the 9 Monterey American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) were covered, capturing 39 varietals!

  • I Brand was the most represented family of wines, followed by Parsonage. I attribute that to the steady and wonderful release events offered by I Brand & Family wines. Parsonage was one of the first local wineries to put Monterey wines squarely on our consumption radar way back when. Their wines match my palate perfectly – what else can I say?

While I have some posts already queued up for Year 3, let me ask my mighty readers:  Where should I visit next?  Please leave me a comment on this post and let me know what some of your favorite, local places are to wine taste that I should not miss in Year 3! I have a list of not-yet-covered wine tasting rooms and other wine venues to check out – happy to add to it.  I don’t know what I don’t know. 

SUBSCRIBE

And, if you have not signed up for my free, weekly blog email, I encourage you to do so – the subscription button is on the right-hand side of each page of the Decanting Monterey website. I judge how well I am doing by how many views, subscribers, and comments I receive.  Please help me spread the word and please feel free to comment on my posts! And follow my Facebook (@decantingmonterey) and Instagram (@decanting_monterey) sites.

OUR SUPPORTERS

I am grateful to Chesebro, Bernardus, Bunter Spring, Idle Hour, Pierce Ranch and Rombi for their generosity this year in donated wines or discounts. Grateful to Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for their support – what a great resource! And to Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos for her partnership and advice as we navigate this world of wine.  I remain grateful to those vintners who have comped me wine tastings, given me discounts, and especially those who have comped me bottles of wine! And, of course, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod!

DONATE

Now, to my ask:

As my avid readers know, Decanting Monterey is a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines.  The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners. While I do this, I protect your data from being sold or used by anyone other than for my own website statistics.  Here is my Privacy Policy.

As I come up on my 3-year renewal of my website, I am asking my readers to consider making a small donation to keep this effort going. I donate my time, energy, knowledge, and to date personally have funded this website and my wine education travel expenses. 

Here is what it takes to make Decanting Monterey run:

  • $13/month for website expenses
  • $20/year for domain registration
  • $40/year for CellarTracker
  • $42/month for Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association membership (an aspiration!)
  • $50/year for codeguard
  • $1200-2400/year in travel expenses (airfare, car rental only)

While this blog is open and free, donations to this not-for-profit effort are always welcome in any amount!  You can donate here: Donate to Decanting Monterey. All donations go toward the operation of this website and to offset travel expenses for out of area wine classes.  Even the smallest amount would be greatly appreciated.

So, here we go – Year 4!  This should be an even better one! Thanks for your support to me on this crazy journey.

Central Coast Sharon

Decanting Monterey Tells All: Introducing New Monterey Wines and Wine Regions in DC!

Last week, I had the opportunity to present Monterey wines to my old wine group one more time. It is always an honor to be asked back. I do this class about once a year and am always glad to see my old wine friends. What I didn’t expect was almost a full house!  There were a lot of new faces in the room – including my daughter and a few of her friends.

But – before I go on, Decanting Monterey has hit another milestone: 10,000 views! This is huge! I have each and every one of my readers to thank for this achievement. I appreciate you so much.

What do I look for in a local wine to present? First of all, quality – it has to be a very tasty, good quality wine.  But, right along with taste is its price. The wine budgets for these nonprofit classes are always tight.  As wine and shipping prices rise, these get harder and harder to pull off.  You see, I don’t want to present them grocery store wines. And I don’t just want to present good value wines. Rather, I like to present delicious wines from wineries I know directly.  I like the personal aspect of developing relationships and sharing stories.  And I like the challenge of the hunt to find the very best wines to fit the budget. This time, I presented two Gold Medal wines – the audience really loved that. And the fact that most of our local wineries will ship out of state is a plus – the audience can go directly to the winery and order more.

Our local wineries are always quite generous to me. They give me steep discounts on their wine (sometimes they donate wine, even!) in return for me giving their wines visibility to a new audience. I’m so grateful. Shipping was probably the biggest wildcard this year. It varied from a winery that could give me a deal ($30) on shipping to those who can’t catch a break (over $70!).  I considered checking out a big box store there to see what they carry, but that runs counter to my m.o.  I also keep the audience in mind: I don’t like presenting an expensive class, but the high attendance last week for the most expensive class I have presented to date shows I should worry less about this. 

I’m already starting to think how I will put together another class for them next year.  I am watching the sales and shipping bargains.  It is too soon and too hot to ship now, but the wheels are turning. Readers:  Got any recommendations??  Please comment!

THE CLASS ITSELF

I start these classes by ensuring everyone knows where Monterey County is – about 2 hours south of San Francisco and just north of the Paso Robles wine growing area.  I talk about the fact we are a cool wine growing region, thanks to the influence of the frigid and deep Monterey Bay.  I talk about the Thermal Rainbow® – our grapevines which expeirence high valley temperatures during the summer days are brought relief by the afternoon winds coming off the bay which both stress and cool the vines – with accompanying fog to keep them from getting too cold overnight.

I give them our stats, which I obtain from the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association website – my go-to website for everything Monterey wine. I also read the crop reports myself (funny, no one else in the room reads crop reports 😊).  I noted our grape-growing acreage has dropped a bit (perhaps from the wildfires?), dropping us to the 5th largest in the state, just behind Napa.  And that we remain the largest producer of Chardonnay in the U.S. and the largest producer of Pinot Noir in California. I mentioned the recent Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival event and highlighted how many of the wineries present were from outside the county (more to come on that event in the upcoming weeks). Some 50% of our grapes are purchased from outside the county.

I like to present wines from our different Monterey County American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).  For the first time I presented one from San Antonio Valley AVA, which gave me a great launching point on our wine growing origins starting in the 1770s with the Franciscan missionaries. And, from there, our history as to how we got to modern winemaking in the region.

In the last couple of years, I have added a section on climate change to my presentations.  We talk about the devastating impact of the wildfires in 2020, the heat spike just before harvest in 2022, and all that rain this past winter.  It’s real, folks.

I highlight the ease and affordability of coming to Monterey to taste wine.  Armed with our tasting room brochures provided by Kim Stemler of the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, I invite them all to visit.

In this class, I focused on three wine growing areas in the county: Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley, and one “technically” from Monterey. Much of the information below is distilled from the AVA website above.

I have presented Arroyo Seco AVA wines to them many times before, which literally means “dry riverbed.” With maps available on the tables, I was able to describe the steep, narrow gorge, where Bordeaux varietals prosper, opening out to the Salinas Valley floor, more appropriate for Burgundian varietals. Arroyo Seco experiences harsh weather conditions varying from warm days to windy, foggy and cold nights. I mostly enjoy the white wines from Arroyo Seco, but I have been pleasantly surprised by bold and big reds produced from grapes in the gorge as well as from the valley floor. In this class, I presented wines from Chesebro, Corral, and Shale Canyon – both from the valley floor and the gorge.

It was my pleasure to be able to bring them a wine from the San Antonio Valley AVA for the first time. Although it is one of the oldest wine growing areas in California, it is one of the youngest AVAs in Monterey County, established in 2006. A mere 25 miles north of Paso Robles, it is in the southern part of the county, nestled in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Range. It has great variance in elevation – from 580 to 2800 feet, and its soils are primarily gravelly loam and clay. Due to its warmer climate, it is an excellent growing area for full-bodied Rhône, Bordeaux, as well as Portuguese & Spanish, varietals.

The last wine growing area I presented was the Monterey AVA, in this case a bit of a catch-all.  As vintner Mark Bunter is quoted as saying, “In one of the many examples of AVA nonsense, this vineyard, a mile outside Carmel Valley Village, isn’t in the Carmel Valley AVA, although vineyards 10 miles away, in Cachagua valley, are. So legally it’s not Carmel Valley wine, it’s Monterey wine. Whatever.” A new Carmel Coast AVA is coming soon to capture this gap!

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE WINES!

In today’s post, I will showcase the 5 wines presented in my class. Winery notes come from their tasting sheets, the bottles, and/or their websites.  My notes are from my previous tastings of these wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

CHESEBRO: “With lots of 300 cases or less, and a penchant for offbeat, as well as mainstream varietals, Chesebro’s production may be small, but the effort is prolific. We are passionate about true varietal expression, as well as preserving the unique voice of each vineyard site, from soil to glass. All of our wines are made solely from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVA’s.

“This connection to every every aspect from vine to bottle allows us to keep our quality high and prices affordable. Our commitment to wines of distinction will be evident from your first visit to our casual and welcoming tasting room in beautiful Carmel Valley Village. Come find out what artisan wines, lovingly farmed and made by hand, truly taste like.”

2020 Chesebro Vermentino, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.1 ABV, $23 (#991)

Winery Notes: “A unique Italian (and French) white variety typically found in Corsica, Sardina and Liguira. Smooth and light on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. It is aromatically complex with citrus, herbal and often floral notes. Versatile and fresh it can be a great pairing with many lighter dishes such as poultry, fish, vegetables and fresh cheeses.”

My Notes: Straw in the glass. Perfume of apricot and citrus blossom on the nose. Crisp palate with apple and pear flavors with a slightly bitter grapefruit/lime twist on the finish. (March 2023)

CORRAL WINE CO: “Corral Wine Company is a production of Bell Family Vineyards. In 2017, in a barn in Corral de Tierra, California, we barreled our first batch of estate Pinot Noir. We’re still in that same barn, but we’ve made even more varietals from some of the best grapes on the Central Coast.”

2020 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.4% ABV, $28 (#943)

Winery Notes: “Vibrant aromas of guava & grapefruit dominate with fresh cut hay, lemon blossom and wet stone. Racing acidity with a pleasant minerality.”

My Review: Golden and viscous in the glass. Grilled pineapple, citrus blossom and guava on the fragrant nose. Rich palate of tropical flavors, a touch of sweetness, with minerality on the finish – very nice. February 2023 (At the event itself, we experienced bottle variation. I have used this wine in other classes before with no issues. I have tasted this wine subsequent to this class and it was perfectly fine.)

SHALE CANYON WINES: Current production is ~1000+ cases/year. Arroyo Seco. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah & Mourvèdre. Making classic and unique blends, such as our current favorite ZSM: Zinfandel, Syrah & Mourvèdre.

2017 Shale Canyon Cabernet Franc, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14.2% ABV, $35 (#948)

Winery Notes: “Best of Class and Best of Show for $31 to $50 range at the 2023 4th annual International Cabernet Franc Competition! Our 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc starts with aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral. A complex wine with flavors of dark cherry, dark berry and cassis. A finish of vanilla with a hint of leather and medium firm tannins.

“Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s top 20 most popular grape varieties. Recent DNA testing has proven it to be an ancestor to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère and Malbec. It is so popular that is has its own “wine” holiday, International Cabernet Day is celebrated August 30th.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. A sweet blackberry nose. Smooth and yummy palate of dark, lean fruit. Very balanced. This wine was a huge hit in the wine class, including my own daughter asking that we ship her a case! I’m working on it. March 2023

PIERCE RANCH VINEYARDS: “The story behind Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a love story of wine shared amongst friends and our beloved community. It starts in the iconic vineyards of southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation in the year 2000. There is a depth to the terrain that exposes the remarkable quality of the region. A small, family-owned affair, we bring a sentimental spirit to viniculture, to honoring the land, and to cultivating and harvesting the grapes in the late summer and fall. The romanticism of crush and the sweeping vineyards flows into our cozy tasting room. What began as a cottage house built in 1915 has become a space where our community meets in the magical garden and rustic indoor setting to taste the ambrosial wine with a unique focus on Portuguese and Spanish varieties. It’s a love story that never ends, poetry in a bottle that starts with respect of the land and the community by never using herbicides and only using native yeasts with minimal intervention. It is a dedication to the vines and attention to the grapes so they continue to thrive with the years.”

2017 Pierce Ranch Tempranillo, San Antonio Valley AVA, 13.1% ABV, $28 (#236)

Winery Notes: “Native of the Rioja, product of our Panhandle and Y Ranch Vineyard plantings. Received a Gold/Best Tempranillo award in Monterey County.”

My Review: Beautiful garnet in the glass with plum and violet notes.  Has come into its time: rich finish of dark fruit, coca cola, licorice and cassis. While not the biggest Tempranillo around, it is delicious and drinking very well. I should have presented this wine before the Cabernet Franc, as it was overshadowed by that huge wine. March 2023

BUNTER SPRING WINERY: “Bunter Spring Winery is a small family operated winery in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley.  We also have some production in Monterey.  Most vintages we make a few hundred cases of wine, mostly for ourselves, but also for sale to friends on our mailing list, and a few restaurants and wine shops.  Why make wine?  We just don’t care for many of the wines sold today. We make the kind of wine we want to drink: balanced, interesting, made with few or no additives, and low or no sulfite. We list all ingredients, the actual sulfite level, and the actual alcohol level on every label.  Incredibly, NO OTHER WINERY DOES THAT…”

2018 Spring “Pizza Wine,” Highlands Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.96% ABV, $24 (#757)65% Zinfandel, 35% Syrah

Winery Notes: “You can drink this with burgers, too, or with nothing at all, but it’s really good with pizza and spicy pasta.  Aged sixteen months in American oak barrels.  Ingredients: grapes, water, yeast, tartaric acid, sulfite.  Not filtered, not fined.  At bottling: total sulfite 52 ppm, residual sugar 0.3 g/l (dry).”

“In this vineyard, rows marked “Zinfandel” are promiscuously punctuated with Syrah and other varieties. Monterey is hardly a byword to Zin groupies, and the wine struck me as intensely fruit punchy but otherwise didn’t remind me much of Zinfandel, so I finished the job they started in the vineyard, and blended in more Syrah, to get a deeper, darker wine, with fuller body yet less alcohol. Yes, less alcohol. Believe it or not.” 16 months in once-used American oak barrels.

My Review: Very dark in color. Sweet dark fruit and perfume on the nose. Jammy dark berries and a touch of alcohol on the palate. This wine was favorably received by the class and is one of my favorites. It’s not as sophisticated as some of his other wines, but, as a ‘Zin groupie” living in Monterey, I appreciate it. I have presented this wine in 2 of my DC-area classes. June 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Georis Winery: Exceptional Wines from Cachagua and Beyond!

Our Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society is continuing to grow, making it challenging to find a spot for our first Friday “WinedUP” tastings.  A lot of our local tasting rooms are small. I have been trying to find places with larger tasting rooms to allow more of our members to participate.  It won’t always be possible, but I have found a few for this Spring.  One of the first places I thought of was Georis. It has a stunning space – indoors and out.

The Georis Winery tasting room manager, Ivan Cornejo-Martinez, was great to work with. He was very kind and flexible – we worked together to keep the event as simple as possible, limiting the number of extra staff and glasses he would need to have on hand.  It was nice to learn we could have done catered food or ordered in from Corkscrew Café across the street, as well.  In the end, we decided to reserve those options for future events.

It had been a chilly day on the coast, so despite driving through a spot of rain to get to the valley, we were thrilled that it was sunny and even warm! When we entered their spacious tasting room, we were delighted to find 3 tasting options:  Chilled (sparkling and white wines), the Grand Mix (which includes a white, a rose and 3 reds) and the Estate (all big reds). They started us with a special wine: the 2009 Deux Frères Merlot/Malbec blend – a great way to kick off the evening.  The name of the wine refers to the two Georis brothers, Walter and Gaston, who sadly passed away last year. The tasting room staff Ivan, Daisy and James were extremely knowledgeable about the wines and did a terrific job taking each of us through our tastings. I hope to go back soon with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.

Check with the winery, as their tasting menu and prices do change!

It has been almost 3 years since I wrote about a Georis wine: https://decantingmonterey.com/2017-georis-merlot-getting-way-beyond-sideways/. And, so I am going to repeat some of it here. Plus, while they are known for their Merlots, they proved that they are making exceptional wines beyond Merlot! 

From the Georis winery’s webpage: “Walter Georis was born of a Belgian father and a German mother who immigrated to the US from Belgium in 1956 when Walter was eleven years old. After having spent his teen years in Southern California, Walter decided to move north to Carmel where he pursued a career in fine arts. Soon after arriving in Carmel, Walter designed a family restaurant, Casanova that would become internationally renowned for its cuisine and style, and its wine cellar. Remembering his childhood and the pleasures of country life on the family farms in Europe, Walter decided to combine his love of fine wines with the challenges and rewards of growing grapes and producing first class wines. In 1981, after consulting with French experts on soil and wine making, he bought a ranch in Carmel Valley and soon planted the grapes that would produce the first crop of Georis wines…

“The vineyard is located in the mountains of the upper Carmel Valley, California, 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Our 14 acre vineyard is planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir grapes. Our terroir is sandy clay loam with gravel and river rocks. Some small vineyard areas include chalky soils…

“Since 1982, Georis Winery proudly produces a variety of wines exceptional in quality. Georis wines represent authenticity, integrity and a commitment to terroir expressive wines. Our philosophy is to respect European wine-making traditions while embracing the generous California climate of our appellation. Our objective is to craft wines with complexity, elegance and finesse.”

Today I am presenting 12 Georis wines which we tasted at the AWS event.  Winery notes come from their website or conversations with tasting room staff.  Any errors are mine and mine alone. Sometimes I am distracted by others or feel rushed in the tasting and can’t get the notes I truly want.  I’ll have to go back. After all, this is a social event!

2009 Georis Deux Frères, Carmel Valley AVA (#963)

Winemaker’s Notes: ~80% Merlot, ~20% Malbec

 My Review: Ruby in the glass. Some soft sandalwood notes on the nose. Light on the palate.  This well aged wine is coming into its own. April 2023

2021 Georis Riesling, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#964)

Winemaker’s Notes: From Tessiere Vineyard in Arroyo Seco.  ~12 months in neutral oak.

 My Review:  This is one of those great, dry Rieslings from Arroyo Seco.  Citrus flavors balanced by salty minerality. Sweet flavors of honeysuckle or white citrus blossom complete the finish.  I described this wine as reminiscent of taking a tequila shot followed by the salt and lime – all in a very delicious package. April 2023

2021 Georis Les Abeilles Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, $42 (#965)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Elegant and crisp Cabernet Franc based Rosè. Medium bodied and dry. Raspberry, peach candy, cantaloupe, and jasmine.” 

 My Review: This was a very nice wine, probably one of the best Central Coast Rosé wines I have tasted lately. Dry, delicately flavored, balanced, perfect in all ways. Very traditional. April 2023

2021 Georis Oaked Chardonnay, Monterey AVA, $42 (#966)

Winemaker’s Notes: Aged in 20% French barrels for 12 months. The fruit comes from our estate vineyard in Carmel Valley.

 My Review: Light in the glass with perfume on the nose. To me, this did not come off as one of those buttery Chardonnays. Balanced. A lean, lighter weight wine than I was expecting. April 2023

2017 Georis Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#967)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.” 

 My Review: A brown tinge in the color with very typical aromas and flavors of a Central Coast Pinot Noir.  April 2023

2017 Georis Estate Les Amoureaux Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $65 (#968)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.” 

 My Review: This was the very last wine I tasted on the way out the door.  A new participant at the AWS tasting told me that I really needed to try it. I found it to be fuller bodied and a Pinot Noir even this Pinot Noir naysayer could really enjoy. Sorry I did not capture better tasting notes! April 2023

2017 Georis Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#969)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Very soft and acid driven with notes of cherry, leather, and roasted pepper. Fantastic progression from the front to the back of the palate with a bright acidic finish.”  From the Donati Family Vineyard in Paicines.

 My Review Powered by Terravenos:  Herbaceous, violet, and lots of mid-palate structure with mild tobacco notes on the finish. April 2023

2017 Georis Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $40 (#54)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Rich and bold yet elegant with sumptuous aromas of mocha, savory chocolate, and black berry fruits. The palate is extremely generous with hints of young berry, black berry, black spices, and silky tannins.” 

 My Review Powered by Terravenos: OK, we are finally in my wheelhouse! This is one of the early wines I reviewed in Decanting Monterey. Ruby/purple in color with plum/blackberry and “Fig Newton” on the nose with rose petal, black cherry and overripe strawberry notes on the palate.  Since I first reviewed this wine almost 3 years ago, the tannins have smoothed out.  A very delicious, big wine which is drinking very well. April 2023

2017 Georis “La Chapelle” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $80 (#970)

Winemaker’s Notes: Our annual Bordeaux blend, the 2017 vintage is 80% Merlot, 10% Petite Verdot and 10% Malbec. 

 My Review: A nice, dark berry bouquet with the nose carrying over to the palate.  Very smooth with the fruit well integrated. I liked this wine. April 2023

2017 Georis Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $45 (#971)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Powerful ruby colored with great nose of dark fruit, plum, and blackberry. Smooth elegant middle with silky tannins and a chalky finish. A dominate palate with savory notes such as dates, fennel, tobacco leaf, and leather.” 

 My Review: Warm, dark fruit on the nose.  This is a good Cabernet Sauvignon from the premier growing area for Cabernet in Monterey County – Cachagua. This has good structure and lots of tannin – this will last for years to come.  Buy some and cellar! April 2023

2017 Georis “Clos des Moutons” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $90 (#972)

Winemaker’s Notes: Our single vineyard selection, aged 26 months in French oak barrels. Think leathery, plum, and tobacco flavors. ~80% Merlot, ~20% Petit Verdot

 My Review:  Nose of rosemary.  Cherry and berry flavors on the palate.  Complex structure. This is another great wine. April 2023

2017 Georis Estate “Malbec Du Milieux”, Carmel Valley AVA, $75 (#973)

Winemaker’s Notes: A single vineyard of 5 acres of 40-year-old Malbec vines. Aged 24 months in French barrels.” 

 My Review: Warm, jammy fruit on the nose. It is a surprising mix of sweet jamminess and tart fruits like raspberry and cherry.  I found this wine intriguing – and a great one to end the tasting on a very high note. April 2023

Georis Tasting Room: Located at 1 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley Village. Open Wednesday – Monday from 12:00 – 6:00 pm with the exception of the weather and holidays. (831) 659-1080. “We greatly appreciate a call if will be joining us with a large group, we want your experience to be delightful while drinking some of California’s best.”

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family’s Spring 2023 Release: Some Very Special Surprises!  

The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us.  There is always something surprising to taste.  And the most recent one in March was no exception.  It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting.  In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality.  Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.

I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely.  Then comes the great part:  deciding which wines we will take home!

I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)

Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program.  We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.

“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”

My Review:  Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache  

Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.

“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass.  A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”

My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.

“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”

My Review:  112-year-old vines! Garnet in color.  Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the  darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”

“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.

“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice.  A bright palate with cranberry notes.  It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.

“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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