This is my last of three planned posts on my Spring Release 2021 I Brand wines, with this post focusing on the I Brand & Family label. This label is for their “California inspired” wines, as compared to the country French and Spanish inspired wines of P’tit Paysan and La Marea, respectively.
The 4 wines in today’s post are the I Brand & Family 2017 and 2018 Chardonnay, 2019 Pinot Noir (a first!), and a special 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, three of which I tasted in early March at their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village.
One of the things Ian Brand is known for is creative grape sourcing for his vineyards. In the case of these wines, he is using rather well-known (at least well-known to us locals) vineyards – ones known for producing quality fruit for higher-end wines.
Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands:“Honore’ Escoole purchased his summer property, for his family in 1878. He established one of the most desireable benches in Monterey County. Now, managed under the local Caraccioli Family. This site, continues to deliver a distinct expression of the northern Santa Lucia Highlands. Dominate soil Chualar Sandy Loam, which allows great root distribution and development.” (from I Brand’s tech sheet)
Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County:“Enz Vineyard is located in San Benito County in the little-known Lime Kiln Valley AVA. Enz currently owns about 1,400 acres and is planted with 40 acres of vines. Mourvedre and Zinfandel are the prime varietals however, they also yield small quantities of Pinot St George, Pinot Noir, and Orange Muscat. Although Enz is fairly close to Monterey Bay, the vineyard elevation site above the fog line and the steep valley walls create a warm microclimate ideal for Mourvedre.” California Wine Navigator
Massa Vineyard, Cachagua, Carmel Valley:“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards.” Heller Estate
“The Massa Vineyard is the new name for the underground classic Durney Vineyard right here in Carmel Valley…We are pleased to be working with the Massa family on excellent organic farming practices…This release comes from its 1971 planting, which we consider far and away the most exceptional blocks on the vineyard.” I Brand Spring Release newswletter
2017 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#281*)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Amazing balance and roundness. Rich nuttiness, and fruit showcased upon the nose. Partial malolactic fermentation, allows bright acidity to shine, while the creamy characteristic follows upon the palate. Layers of fruit and baking spices envelop the mouth, providing a silky finish that lasts. Baked apples, and pineapple lead, with a slight clove finish. Enjoy now, or cellar for an optimal tasting experience.” 10 months on lees, 50% new French oak. 4 months stainless steel, partial malolactic fermentation.
My Review: Beautiful golden yellow in the glass like sunshine. Fresh citrus squirt on the nose and more of same on the palate. A lovely wine. March 2021
2018 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#282*)
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: ““bright citrus, macadamia nut, subtle spice, silky smooth” 10 months in 50% new oak, last 4 months in stainess steel.” “Like a sunny day.”
My Review: Brighter yellow than the Albarino. Mild, buttery and creamy nose. Toasted marshmallow and butter on the palate with lemon curd on toast on the finish. Delicious. March 2021
2019 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#283*)
Winery Tasting Notes: “cherry, black tea, rhubarb, damp earth, dry acidity, will grow in expression over the next few years” “A cooler climate Pinot.”
My Review: Strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Raspberry and rhubarb on the palate. Slight tannin on the finish. March 2021
2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Block 10’, Massa Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 13% ABV, $75 (#284*)
Winery Tasting Notes: “black current, violet, bergamot, strong & graceful, will age well over 10-12 years” “On par with the Monte Bello Road” (I Brand’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains)
My Review: Deep ruby – bordering on inky. Intense dark berry (great Cachagua fruit) on the nose. Inkiness continues on the palate – rich deep flavors. The challenge will be to lay it down and not touch it – we are not that disciplined! March 2021
Since we started cataloguing wines last March, it has been quite a process to keep track of which wines I have posted to Decanting Monterey and which I haven’t, as well as all those wines that don’t fit the “Central Coast” criteria! The Bernardus Pinot Noir in today’s post slipped through the cracks – we’ve actually had this wine three times, so you are benefiting from my most mature review! I am highlighting it today, along with a couple of my favorites Marinus wines.
2014 Bernardus Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV, $55 (#42*)
About the Soberanes Vineyard: “The Soberanes Vineyard, located in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands, builds upon a tradition of high quality hand-winegrowing. Working together again, the Pisoni and Franscioni families, whose friendship spans three generations and are known for the Pisoni, Garys’, Rosella’s and Sierra Mar Vineyards, have an additional vineyard site to explore.” 38 acres, 27 acres of Pinot Noir.
Wine Enthusiast – 91 Points: “Cranberry juice, touches of juniper and muddy-soil notes arise on the nose of this bottling from a popular vineyard in the region. The earthy palate combines a line of beet juice with clay, turned earth, black plum and dried pine needles, framed by chalky tannins.” Matt Kettmann, 3/2017 Drink through 2027. (The 2018 vintage is the current release, which lists for $70 and is rated 94 points!)
My Review: Garnet in color. Cassis and tobacco on the nose. Mid-to-full bodied, with cassis, plum, eucalyptus and tobacco notes on the palate. Lingering raspberry with a touch of bitterness. This is a big wine – even this non-Pinot fan like this Pinot Noir. January 2021
About Marinus from Bernardus: “Our Marinus vineyard in upper Carmel Valley is planted with the five traditional red Bordeaux varietals. It is divided into small blocks per grape variety, exposure and soil type. Each block has its own unique terroir and is farmed and hand harvested at peak ripeness to maximize quality.
Marinus Collection Chez Nous!
“In recent years, our Vineyard Manager Matt Shea and Winemaker Dean DeKorth have been busy refurbishing the Marinus vineyard with spectacular results…”
2012 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#243*)
2012 Bernardus Marinus
From the Label: “Our California grown Bordeaux-style wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot and Malbec grapes from our Vineyards in the upper Carmel Valley. The Marinus Estate vineyard was chosen for its rare joining of varied soils and sunny inland climate moderated by a marine influence-ideal conditions for the production of Bordeaux varieties. Taste A Dream.”
Wine Enthusiast Review – 92 points: “One of the winery’s most celebrated releases each year, this blend of all five major Bordeaux red varieties is an excellent showcase of Carmel Valley’s class. Freshly squeezed blackberry and blackcurrant fruit meet with beef char, charcoal and dried lilacs on the nose. The palate tastes of lava rocks, dark chocolate, fresh boysenberries, dried mint and beef jerky, all woven together with a touch of smoke.” 90 points. Matt Kettmann, February 2017
My Review: Dense, dark red, garnet in color. Black fruits on the nose with deep blackberry and leather. A mouthful of dark, dense fruit. Leather, pepper and licorice on the finish. This Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wine is best enjoyed decanted. August 2020
2013 Bernardus Signature Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#244*)
2013 Bernardus Signature Marinus
Winemaker Notes: “The 2013 Signature Marinus represents a selection of the best barrels from the best lots in 2013. It is both elegant, yet very powerful, exhibiting wonderfully intense aromas of ripe cranberry, black cherry and plums accented by spicy notes of cedar. The palate exhibits intense candied red cherry and cranberry flavors with hints of spice, supported by a beautifully long, well-structured finish. Our 2013 Signature Marinus demonstrates the superb quality of the Marinus Vineyard, with the ripe fruit flavors of California matched with the excellent ageing potential of the finest wines of Bordeaux.”
My Review: This was one of the first Marinus Signature series wines I got to know well from our many visits to Bernardus. When we finally figured out we could be “Marinus only” members, we jumped at the chance. This is a big, smooth, rich wine, full of yummy berry flavors and a nice finish. Remains one of my very favorites. December 2020
Patio Tasting Is Open by Reservation!!
Bernardus is open for curbside pick up Monday through Friday 10-4 and just started back up patio tastings Wednesday through Friday as of 2/10! Please email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call 831-298-8021 for a wine tasting appointment. Please read more HERE.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited. Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays.
When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth. Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t. They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!
About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California. Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA. The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils. Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860. Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016. Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”
From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay. A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”
I am reviewing 4 Eden Rift wines in this blog post.
2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com
wine.com rated the 2018 rosé 92 points!
Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months. Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”
wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019
My Review: Light pink in the glass. Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish. I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)
IMHO, Chardonnay is truly the strong suit of Eden Rift.
Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”
Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.” 92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019
My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose. Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020
2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)
wine.com rated the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir 95 points!
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.” 91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass. Dark berry notes on the nose. Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness. Well balanced. A tasty wine. October 2020
2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)
The 2017 Zinfandel was very berry and enjoyable for what it is.
Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”
Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020
My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color.Berry jam on the nose. Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish. We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate. Still drinking well a week later. I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons. I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort. October 2020
Their tasting room is open by appointment. You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
While Parsonage ingeniously sourced fruit from elsewhere in the aftermath of the 2016 Soberanes Fire, we are glad their 2017 vintages are being released! We tasted these wines at a soft-opening test of their COVID-19 social-distancing procedures back in June 2020.
Parsonage learned a lot from our dry run of their pandemic tasting procedures. Heh.
Parsonage was the winery that showed us Carmel Valley could make the kinds of big reds I love and is the reason I am a Syrah fan these days. In addition to the big Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah wines and blends, Parsonage makes some delicious, big Pinot Noirs – their Estate Pinot Noir (below) and their reserve “Hawk” Pinot Noir (reviewed here: https://decantingmonterey.com/parsonage-reserve-wines-my-kind-of-big-reds/).
The Parsonage Estate Pinot Noir – their lightest red – is still a BIG wine!
Winemaker’s Notes: “While this is the lightest red we make, it’s still bigger than your average Pinot Noir. An easy drinker, this wine does not need to be paired with food. But we like it with roast chicken, salmon or even some cheese and crackers. We get ripe cranberry and a hint of Earl Grey tea. Mouth-watering acidity and elegance on the luscious vibrant finish.” This wine spent ~8 months in neutral oak.
My Review: I’m not a big Pinot Noir fan, yet I really enjoy the richer style of Parsonage’s Pinots. Less complex than the “Hawk,” this is a wonderful, enjoyable wine – smooth and delicious fruit on the bouquet and palate, with a little lingering bitterness. June 2020
2017 Parsonage Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $42 (#87*)
So happy to have the estate wines back – the 2017 Syrah!
Winemaker’s Notes: “Big and rich is a great way to describe our 2017 Estate Syrah. Perfect balance and fully ripened tannins allow for a big, beautiful finish without dissonance. The bouquet is a swirl of toasted French oak vanillins that perform an olfactory fakeout with the very ripe Syrah skins that together say caramel mocha. Right behind that is a ripe black raspberry/black currant fusion. All of these aromatics manifest on the palate creating a melange of bittersweet chocolate caramel accented with sea salt (derived from the umami flavor of Parsonage terroir).”
My Review: Deep purple in color. Black cherry on the nose. Palate bursting with black fruit, spice and bay leaves. June 2020
You can obtain these wines directly from Parsonage here and pick them up at the tasting room onr have them shipped to you. Join their wine club for 20% off. You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Monday-Friday 12-5 and weekends 11-5. Make a reservation in advance here.
Estate Vines at Parsonage.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
We discovered Mercy Vineyards when they opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – they were the very first tasting room as you come into the village. We would often see the Mark Dirickson sitting out front with his lunch and a glass of white wine. All of their wines are from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Why? The dry, cobblestone (“Greenfield Potatoes”) riverbeds of granite and shale and the extreme climate of chilly winds and fog make it an ideal growing area for wine grapes.
The “Greenfield Potatoes” of the Ancient River Channel photo from Mercy Wines website
From Mercy Wines: “Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.” (The vineyards are Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala.)
We were impressed from our first meeting with Mark and winemaker Mike Kohne, who were also running their nascent tasting room. They also were producing a dry Riesling, something not seen much around here. While most of their wines are Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, they had me at Syrah – my favorite Mercy wines. I featured their 2017 Riesling at my Spring 2019 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar (WWCS) class, and their 2016 Syrah in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS seminar. I had planned to presenting their Sauvignon Blanc and the 2016 Syrah at my 2020 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar, which is on hold indefinitely. My DC friends got to consume those wines! And I have to say we are really enjoying their Pinot Noirs – it took the pandemic for me to realize I might actually like Pinot Noir!
The truly sad news is that Mercy Vineyards is now closed. Their website www.mercywines.com is still operational. We love these guys and are sorry to see them go.
Today I am presenting 7 of their wines – some tasted before I was writing my own tasting notes, some for which there is little-to-no published information. 6 of these were tasted during the Shelter in Place order. If you gotta stay home, drink good wine!
Aspiring to make a dry, old-world style Riesling, Mercy sourced Germanic clones from vines set in extremely rocky, low-yielding topsoil.
FromMercy Wines: “Fermented dry, with just the slightest touch of sweetness added back for texture, this “troken” style Riesling showcases aromas of orchard fruit as nectarine and pear notes mingle with honeysuckle, fennel, pollen and minerals in the bouquet.”
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard, 13.8% ABV, $24
I needed a good white to cook with in April and, since we bought this wine for half price, I didn’t feel too bad cooking with it – and even got to enjoy some with my meal. Just like many Mercy wines, this one is from the Zabala Vineyard – man, that place produces great fruit. I’m going to have to lean on my friends to find out which other wineries buy from Zabala or get to know the grower.
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard
From Mercy Wines: “This Sauvignon Blanc is comprised exclusively of the low-yielding, Musque clone (FPS 27) from vines at the Zabala Vineyard. Set in the Arroyo Seco AVA’s ancient river channel the property’s locale features granitic topsoil arrayed on cobblestone beds. Such meager soil further diminishes yields and in concert with strong winds and dense fog combine to provide an environment ideal for compelling fruit.
“Hand-harvested in early September 2017, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were crushed into stainless steel for fermentation. Racked to small mueller, steel barrels the wine aged for 6 months until being bottled on April 26, 2018. Innately racy, the straw colored wine features a bouquet with exotic aromas of melon, pineapple and star fruit, as well as lemon blossom, fresh cut hay and mineral characters. Replete with acidity, this aromatic wine has, due to the clone, a nice weight while remaining bright and refreshing.”
In the spirit of creating some isolation fun, Charlie decided we would taste this wine blind – he poured me a glass and made me guess what it was. This was a big red with a spicy bouquet. Zinfandel!Nope. Joullian Retro Rouge? Nope. He confirmed it was a Monterey wine. Then he said that it is not one of my favorites – which jumped me to Pinot Noir! I guessed based on its heft that it must be the Parsonage Hawk Reserve Pinot Noir! Wrong again – close, but no cigar.
On one of our 3 trips to Mercy in February 2020, the tasting room was boasting it had found these 2012 Pinot Noirs from the Arroyo Seco AVA, tucked away at the winery. They let us taste it and we bought a bunch.
2012 Mercy Pinot Noir Zabala Vineyard
This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, once again a wine hailing from the fabulous Zabala Vineyard. The label describes this wine as follows: “Wind blown, Zabala Vineyard bears the brunt of regional maritime elements. This small-lot Pinot Noir hails from the “South Pointe”, a section of vineyard blocks nearest the seasonal creek. From this rocky locale, Mercy sources “Dijon” clones 115 and 667, as well as a touch of Pommard clone.”
From Mercy Wines: “A barrel selection of nine distinct barrels, this wine showcases the dense, juicy berry-nature of Pinot Noir grown on the Zabala ranch. Aromas of black berries and cherry mingle with notes baking spices, violets and earthy-mineral tones. Richly textured, firm tannins enhance the fruit flavors on the palate and melt away as part of the long finish.”
If I could get my hands on more of this, I would. We had this wine for Sunday night dinner with steak and a flavorful barley risotto. It was a fabulous combo. It is making me re-think my views on Pinot Noir!
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard, 14.4% ABV, $32(Outbreak Wine #120)
About Cedar Lane Vineyard from Mercy Wines: “Located against and somewhat sheltered by a natural bench, a 40-foot palisade of bedrock along its northern border, this 60-acre vineyard is owned by Mark Chesebro and farmed by Michael Griva. Found at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains the sand as well as shale and granite cobblestone topsoil are meager with little nutrients, ultimately helping to diminish yields. The vineyard is planted to multiple varietals, including 7 different clones of Pinot Noir of which Mercy Vineyards sources two (“Pommard” clone 4 and clone 667).”
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 89 points: “Concentrated lavender and incense aromas make for a woody perfume on the nose of this appellation blend, giving lots of character to the core of cherry syrup. The palate shows the same levels of intense incense and purple flowers, which nearly overpowers the cranberry and pomegranate fruits.” Matt Kettmann October 2017
My Review: Beautiful crystalized cork. This wine has a dark robe, slightly brownish. Musty, blackberry with cedar notes on the nose. A palate of blackberry, cherry and a little leather, giving a slightly bitter finish – perhaps a little raisin. This is a very rich and full-bodied Pinot Noir. I do like my wines made from Cedar Lane grapes! August 2020
My Review: We tasted this wine last after a series of big wines – I did not capture good tasting notes. Very dark in color, this wine has lost some of its fruit and beyond its prime. Nevertheless, it was a terrific wine.
According to their website, “Mercy sources three clones from the Zabala family (clone 7 an Aussie Shiraz clone, and two French ENTAV clones 470 and 877). All get co-fermented in small open top bins and ultimately the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (11% new) prior to bottling.”
2012 Mercy Syrah Zabala Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast gave it 93 points with this review: “Ripe and plump blackberries shine through in a showcase of fruit purity, lifted by dried fennel, hot black gravel, peppercorns, toasted sesame and soy. There is tremendous structure and acidity on the sip, with black pepper and black-sesame nuance plus juicy boysenberry character to the midpalate.”
My Review: Almost 4 years later, this wine is drinking beautifully – blackberry and mocha with a touch of spice, full and smooth on the palate. Yum. Tasted March 2020
I presented this wine at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class as a compare and contrast of wines from the same 2016 vintage, different AVAs, to show how the Soberanes Fire affected wines from Carmel Valley but not from the other Monterey County AVAs.
Regarding the 2016 Riverbed Syrah from Mercy Wines: “The progeny of grapevines located in the ancient, dried riverbed corridor of the Arroyo Seco AVA. This wine combines fruit from vines set in meager, nutrient-deficient topsoil which feature cobblestone beds of granite and shale. In addition to the distinct and finite terrain, the riverbed channel location is also is noted for its extreme climate as forceful winds and dense fog persist throughout the growing season. All these factors combine to create a distinct environment that is suited for Rhone varieties.
2016 Mercy Syrah Riverbed – the Last Release and a Great One
“Harvest in late October the grapes were transported to the winery in the early morning. At the winery the fruit was crushed with the ‘must’ racked to small bins for fermentation. Once dry, the wine was pressed off and transferred to neutral (1 and 2 year old) French oak barrels. Ultimately, it was aged 20 months before being bottled. The resulting wine shows aromas of juicy late-summer plum, cherry, lavender, sagebrush and holiday spices.”
My Review: Raspberry, blackberry and cassis on the nose. An explosion of berry and cassis on the palate, and a lingering finish. Smooth and delicious. May 2020
2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $36
Long ago, we joined Silvestri’s wine club because the Parsonage winemaker, Frank, whose wines we adore, also makes their wines. They have a lovely tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea, which was always a nice experience for us when we were in town. We really enjoyed their Syrahs and Barberas. and kept getting Pinot Noir (not my favorite varietal) in our allocations. When my wine class picked Pinot Noir for class this past week, we hunted in our wine room for our last Silvestri and it was a good one!
Alan Silvestri was a famous movie soundtrack composer of great renown, who moved his family to Carmel in 1989. The Silvestri Vineyard was planted in 2000, with its first harvest in 2003. From Silvestri: “Silvestri Vineyards is located approximately 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean up Carmel Valley. This location is the key element in the terroir of this unique site. During the growing season the cool marine influence on one side and the much warmer inland mountains on the other side subject this spot to daily afternoon winds bringing dramatic temperature drops even on the sunniest days. The tight constriction of the valley at this point creates even greater wind velocities here. The vineyards are on benchlands and hillsides several hundred feet above the valley floor further exposing them to the marine onshore flow. Only cooler climate varieties can be expected to ripen here.
“The very rocky soils are based on a soft shale locally referred to as “chalk rock”. Devigorating rootstocks were selected to advance the harvest date and match differing soil conditions within the vineyard. Varieties were also matched to different soil conditions, sun and wind exposures. All varieties are a mix of three to five different clones originally selected at research stations in France. This was done to take advantage of the earlier ripening characteristics of these selections and to provide a palette of flavors from which to create elegant and complex wines…”
Delicious 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir – Bursting with Raspberry and Cherry
Winery Notes for the 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir: “Raspberry and sweet black cherries are the first aromas out of the glass. You then discover hints of vanilla and clove behind them. Roll that around in your mouth and feel the softness that then completes with mild tannins and balancing acidity.” Case production: 838
My Review: The 2014 Silvestri Estate Pinot Noir is cherry red and transluscent. Raspberry and cherry with sweet-tart and vanilla notes on the nose. Slightly sweet upon opening, which dissipated as the wine opened up, this wine bursts with cherry and cassis on the palate with a slightly leathery finish. This is a delicious Pinot Noir for the most discerning palate. July 2020
Check out their website for information on how to order. Their tasting room is currently closed.
Reviews of Parsonage Estate Reserve 2016 Rocco Syrah, 2016 Tanner Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2017 Hawk Pinot Noir
I’m going to take us north from Cachagua to talk about a few wineries we “discovered” with vineyards just south of Carmel Valley Village. I’ll come back to Cachagua in a few posts.
We discovered Parsonage during one of our wine tasting outings to Carmel Valley many years ago. During that time, it seemed every time we came to the valley, there were new wineries and tasting rooms popping up. We were at Joullian Vineyards and asked where else we should taste. The tasting room manager made a call to Parsonage’s winemaker, Frank Melicia, who wanted to ensure we were serious wine buyers before he’d let us come up to the winery. And thusly began a beautiful relationship!
Bill and Mary Parsons planted the seven-acre Parsonage Village Vineyard in June 1998, with their first harvest in 2000. According to Parsonage, the vineyard is planted to 3 ½ acres of Syrah, 2 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Merlot and 1/2 acre of Petit Verdot. Starting at a meager 200 cases back in 2000, annual production today is in the 1500-2000 case range. The Parsons were the first to plant Syrah in Carmel Valley and their wines are the reason I am now a big Syrah fan.
Parsonage has made five estate reserve wines: Bixby (Petit Verdot), Dario (Merlot), Hawk (Pinot Noir), Rocco (Syrah), Tanner (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Xandro (Red Blend). Their reserve wines are named for Bill and Mary’s grandchildren. Mary’s exquisite quilts are featured on the labels and in the tasting room (you can view them on their website).
Glicee prints of Mary Parsons’s intricate quilts in their tasting room!
Two of these reviews are of 2016 wines. In the summer of 2016, the Soberanes Fire burned for months south of Carmel Valley. The smoke from that fire affected the grapes in the Carmel Valley AVA. I’ll do a longer piece on the Soberanes Fire in a future blog, as its impact was significant.
Parsonage says this about the 2016 Rocco: “This is our flagship wine and what we’re known for. It’s what our dinner guests ask for when they come to visit. The Rocco is a big red wine to pair with steak or anything grilled or barbecued. We get brambleberry, grilled game, mocha, umami and spice. This wine is delicious now but could be aged for years and years.” 150 cases were produced. All neutral oak was used to mitigate smokiness – brilliant.
My Review: We detected a little tar on the nose with ham hock and charcoal on the palate “in a good way – like S’Mores”. This wine has a lot of fruit – it’s like you are sitting around a campfire with a mouthful of sweetness and tart. The wine seems to work with the smokiness, making it part of its richness, not an offensive aftertaste. In July 2020, we decanted this wine and enjoyed it even more – much smoother and even less ham hock. As my husband says, a Rocco Syrah, even from the Soberanes Fire year, is still one of the most delicious Carmel Valley wines. June/July 2020
I presented this wine at my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS as a compare and contrast of a Carmel Valley 2016 wine with one from another Monterey County AVA. I didn’t tell them about the smoke and I asked them what they tasted different in this wine. There were many guesses before the owner of Pearmund Winery guessed smoke.
According to Parsonage: “This Cabernet Sauvignon is a burly beast of a wine and the fastest selling vintage we’ve ever made. When folks try it, they buy it. The nose is full of dark fruit with hints of barrel toast. The palate is full of blackberry, black cherry, and tobacco leaf. Nicely integrated tannins and a long finish. We aren’t fancy and like to pair it with a burger.” 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
My Review: Glass-coating rich, this wine had a little sulphur and green olive on the nose, followed by umami flavors of pepperoni dipped in a good marinade. Very robust and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon. Little to no detection of smoke taint, despite the 2016 vintage. June 2020
From Parsonage: “A magnificent expression of the varietal character of Pinot Noir California style. All of the beautiful floral spice found in its elegant sibling (the Estate Pinot) but with black cherry and black raspberry and Darjeeling muscatel notes in a bigger, richer, fuller version with an extra dollop of yum. The Hawk is truly high viscosity Pinot on steroids.” Aged in new oak for ~12 months.
My Review: Very berry on the nose. More structure than the Estate Pinot Noir, yet smoother. Intense berry, black tea and a bit of tobacco on the palate. The Hawk is a delicious Pinot Noir enjoyed and highly regarded even by my Burgundy fanatic relatives. June 2020
You can obtain their wines directly from the winery: They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off.
Photo courtesy of Parsonage
Parsonage has moved all tastings outdoors on their genius parklet!
You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village Thursdays through Monday, 12-5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page here.
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